light FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Manual Online

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in; this is best left to professionals. If
the damage is due to impact, it will also be
necessary to check completely the alignment
of the bodyshell; this can only be carried out
accurately by a Ford dealer, using special jigs.
If the body is left misaligned, it is primarily
dangerous, as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly, uneven stresses will be
imposed on the steering, suspension and
possibly transmission, causing abnormal wear
or complete failure, particularly to items such
as the tyres.
Removal
Front bumper
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2Where applicable, remove the foglights
from the front bumper (Chapter 12).
3Where applicable, disconnect the tubing
from the headlight washer jets.
4Unscrew the screws securing the wheel
arch liners to the front bumper (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and
withdraw the bumper forwards from the
vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the
guides from the side pins (see illustrations).
Rear bumper
6Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
6 Bumpers - removal and refitting
5 Major body damage - repair
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners, to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes.
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7Disconnect the rear exhaust mounting
rubber, and support the exhaust system on an
axle stand.
8Remove the screws securing the wheel
arch liners to the rear bumper.
9Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and
withdraw the bumper rearwards from the
vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the
guides from the side pins (see illustration).
Refitting
Front and rear bumpers
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Make sure that the guides locate
correctly on the side pins.
Removal
1Support the bonnet in the open position.
2Using a Torx key, unscrew the radiator grille
mounting screws (see illustration).
3Unclip the radiator grille from the front
panel (see illustration).
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Open the bonnet, and support it in the open
position using the stay.
2Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
3Prise out the clips from the insulator on the
underside of the bonnet, for access to the
windscreen washer hoses and engine
compartment light. It is not necessary to
completely remove the insulator.
4Disconnect the wiring from the engine
compartment light, and unclip the wiring from
the bonnet.5Unbolt the earth lead from the bonnet (see
illustration).
6Disconnect the windscreen washer hoses
from the bottom of the jets, and unclip the
hose from the bonnet.
7To assist in correctly realigning the bonnet
when refitting it, mark the outline of the hinges
with a soft pencil. Loosen the two hinge
retaining bolts on each side (see illustration).
8With the help of an assistant, unscrew the
four bolts, release the stay, and lift the bonnet
from the vehicle (see illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Position the bonnet hinges within
the outline marks made during removal, but if
necessary alter its position to provide a
8 Bonnet - removal,
refitting and adjustment
7 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
11
7.3 Unclipping the radiator grille from the
front panel
8.5 Earth lead and washer hoses on the
underside of the bonnet
6.9 Rear bumper mounting nuts7.2 Removing a radiator grille mounting
screw
8.7 Mark around the bonnet hinges with a
soft pencil before removal
6.4 Screw (arrowed) securing the wheel
arch liner to the front bumper6.5A Front bumper mounting bolt
(arrowed)6.5B Disconnecting the front bumper from
the side guides
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4Unscrew and remove the lock mounting
bolts on the inner rear edge of the door, and
remove the plate. Also remove the additional
support screw (see illustrations).
5Unclip and disconnect the wiring multi-
plugs for the central locking and alarm
systems (see illustration).
6Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
door lock.
7Disconnect the inner handle illumination
light. Undo the screws and remove the inner
handle. Disconnect the operating cable from
the inner handle, as described later in this
Section (see illustrations).
8Manipulate the lock and handle assembly
as necessary, and disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs for the alarm sensor and central
locking. Withdraw the complete assembly
from inside the door (see illustrations).
9To disconnect the handle assembly from
the lock bracket, slide the rubber posts
inwards, and push out the assembly (see
illustration).
10To remove the handle itself, twist the door
handle through a quarter-turn, and pull out the
connecting rods (see illustration).
11Remove the alarm sensor and the central
locking “Set-reset” sensor (see illustration).
Rear door exterior handle
12Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
13Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
11
14.8B Front door lock and exterior handle
assembly removed from the vehicle14.9 Disconnecting the handle assembly
from the lock bracket14.10 Pulling out the handle connecting
rods
14.4A Unscrew the lock mounting
bolts . . .14.4B . . . and remove the plate14.4C Removing the additional support
screw
14.5 Disconnecting the central locking
and alarm system wiring multi-plugs14.7A Removing the inner handle
14.7B Disconnecting the operating cable
from the inner handle14.8A Removing the lock and exterior
handle assembly from inside the door
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strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeled
back for access to the lock. Do notpeel back
the foam insulator without first cutting through
the adhesive strip. To ensure a good seal
when the insulator is pressed back, do not
touch the adhesive strip.
14Prise out the plug from the rear edge of
the door, then unscrew the handle mounting
nuts (see illustrations).
15Prise up the clip, and disconnect the
operating rod from the lock (see illustration).
16Withdraw the handle from the outside of
the door (see illustration).
Interior handle
17Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
18Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeledback for access to the lock. Do notpeel back
the foam insulator without first cutting through
the adhesive strip. To ensure a good seal
when the insulator is pressed back, do not
touch the adhesive strip.
19Disconnect the interior handle illumination
light.
20Undo the screws and remove the interior
handle.
21To remove the cable, first pull back the
plastic outer cable end and blanking piece.
Apply light inward pressure to the control
lever, with the lever in the locked position,
until the inner cable is aligned with the release
slot in the bottom of the cable holder.
22Push down on the cable ferrule, and
disconnect the inner cable. Remove the
handle assembly.
Lock barrel
23Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
24Prise out the barrel retaining tab from the
handle body, using a small screwdriver (see
illustration).
25Insert the key, turn it so that it engages
the barrel, then pull out the barrel (see
illustration).
Lock motor - front door26Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
27Extract the clip, and pull out the operating
rod.
28Remove the operating rod from the plastic
bush, by turning it through a quarter-turn.
29Release the sensor wiring loom from the
clip.
11•12 Bodywork and fittings
14.11 Removing the central locking “Set-
reset” sensor14.14A Prise out the plug . . .14.14B . . . and unscrew the handle
mounting nuts
14.25 . . . and pull out the lock barrel14.31 Unclipping the door-ajar sensor14.32 Removing the plastic shield from the
locating post
14.15 Disconnect the operating rod from
the lock14.16 Removing the rear door exterior
handle14.24 Prise out the barrel retaining tab . . .
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30Detach the mounting plate from the lock.
31Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
(see illustration).
32Prise the plastic shield from the locating
post (see illustration).
33Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket (see illustration), then turn the inner
cable through a quarter-turn to remove it from
the bell crank.
34Unscrew the mounting screws and
remove the lock motor (see illustration).
Lock motor - rear door
35Remove the exterior handle as described
earlier in this Section.
36Unscrew and remove the three lock
mounting screws.
37Release the sensor wiring loom from the
clip on the door.
38Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
door lock.
39Disconnect the interior handle illumination
light.
40Remove the screws, and remove the
interior handle.
41Remove the lock assembly.
42Release the door-ajar sensor from the
clip.
43Prise the plastic shield from the locating
post.
44Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket, then turn the inner cable through a
quarter-turn to remove it from the bell crank.
45Unscrew the mounting screws andremove the lock motor.
Striker
46Using a pencil, mark the position of the
striker.
47Undo the mounting screws using a Torx
key, and remove the striker.
Check strap
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
49Using a Torx key, unscrew and remove
the check strap mounting screw(s). On the
front door, there are two screws; on the rear
door, there is only one.
50Prise the rubber grommet from the door
aperture, then unscrew the mounting nuts and
withdraw the check strap from the door.
Refitting
Handles (exterior and interior)
51Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Lock barrel
52Check that the retaining clip is fitted
correctly.
53Align the grooves on the barrel with the
grooves on the body and operating lever, then
carefully push the barrel into the handle until it
engages the clip.
54The remaining refitting procedure is a
reversal of removal.
Lock motor
55Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Striker
56Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the door lock
passes over the striker centrally. If necessary,
re-position the striker before fully tightening
the mounting screws.
Check strap
59Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Using a Torx key, unscrew and remove the
check strap mounting screw(s). On the front
door, there are two screws; on the rear door,
there is only one (see illustrations).
3Disconnect the wiring connector(s) by
twisting them anti-clockwise. On the front
door, there are two connectors; on the rear
door, there is only one (see illustration).
4Extract the small circlips from the top of the
upper and lower hinge pins (see illustration).
5Have an assistant support the weight of the
15 Door - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•13
11
15.2B Front door check strap removed15.3 Disconnecting a door wiring
connector15.4 Extract the small circlips . . .
14.33 Slide the outer cable from the lock
bracket14.34 Removing a lock motor15.2A Front door check strap mounting
screw removal
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Removal
Lock barrel
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2With the boot lid open, remove the luggage
space trim from the right-hand rear corner.
3Remove the screws, and prise out the rear
light trim cover from the guides.
4Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
5Slide the outer cable from the lock bracket.
Raise the inner cable until it is aligned with the
slot in the barrel lever, and disconnect it.
6Pull out the lock locating spring clip.
7Detach the cable mounting bracket from
the barrel, and remove the barrel.
Lock
8Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
9With the boot lid open, prise out the clips
and remove the trim from inside the boot lid.
10Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
11Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and withdraw the lock for
access to the cables.
12Disconnect both the inner and outer
cables from the lock bracket.13Prise open the plastic lip, and remove the
central locking control rod.
14Withdraw the lock assembly.
Refitting
Lock barrel and lock
15Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
Hatchback
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1). Open the tailgate.
2The tailgate may be unbolted from the
hinges and the hinges left in position, or the
hinges may be detached from the roof panel
by unscrewing the mounting nuts. In the latter
case, carefully pull down the rear edge of the
headlining for access to the nuts. Take care
not to damage the headlining.
3Remove the parcel shelf left-hand support
bracket as follows. Fold the rear seat
forwards, and disconnect the left-hand seat
pull cable from the bracket and clips.
Unscrew the screws and remove the bracket.
4Pull up the rear seat side bolster, then
carefully remove the side trim from the left-
hand side of the luggage area. On low-series
models, the bolster is retained with a screw.5Separate the tailgate wiring loom multi-
plugs, located on the left-hand side of the
luggage compartment, on top of the wheel
arch.
6Unclip and remove the upper trim panel
from the inside of the tailgate. Also remove
the rear shelf cord plastic post (see
illustrations).
7Prise out the rubber grommet from the top
of the tailgate aperture, and pull the wiring
loom out through the hole in the body (see
illustration).
8Disconnect the rear window washer tube
from the jet.
9Prise out the rubber grommet from the
right-hand side of the tailgate aperture, and
pull out the washer tube.
10Have an assistant support the tailgate in
its open position.
11Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
clips securing the struts to the tailgate. Pull
the sockets from the ball-studs, and move the
struts downwards.
12If the headlining has been pulled back,
unscrew and remove the hinge nuts from the
roof panel. Otherwise, unscrew the bolts
securing the tailgate to the hinges (see
illustration).
13Withdraw the tailgate from the body
aperture, taking care not to damage the
paintwork.
Estate
14Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
15The tailgate may be unbolted from the
hinges and the hinges left in position, or the
hinges may be detached from the rear roof
panel by unscrewing the mounting nuts. In the
latter case, carefully pull down the rear edge
of the headlining for access to the nuts. Take
care not to damage the headlining.
16Unscrew the retaining screws, then unclip
the “D” pillar trim panels from both sides (see
illustration).
17Unclip and remove the upper trim panel
from inside the tailgate.
18Carefully remove the side trim from the
left-hand side of the luggage area, and
separate the tailgate wiring loom multi-plugs
in the rear light cluster housing.
20 Tailgate -
removal and refitting
19 Boot lid lock components-
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•15
11
20.12 Unscrewing the bolts securing the
tailgate to the hinges20.16 “D” pillar trim panel retaining
screws (arrowed) - Estate models
20.6A Unclipping the upper trim panel
from the tailgate20.6B Shelf cord post removal20.7 Removing the wiring loom rubber
grommet
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19Attach a strong fine cord to the end of the
wiring loom, to act as an aid to guiding the
wiring through the tailgate when it is refitted.
20Prise the rubber grommet from the top
left-hand side of the tailgate aperture, and pull
out the wiring loom. Untie the cord, leaving it
in position in the “D” pillar.
21Disconnect the rear window washer tube
from the jet. Pull out the rubber grommet, and
remove the tube.
22Have an assistant support the tailgate in
its open position.
23Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
clip securing the struts to the tailgate. Pull the
sockets from the ball-studs, and move the
struts downwards.
24Unscrew and remove the hinge nuts from
the roof panel, or the hinge bolts from thehinge, as desired (see illustration). Withdraw
the tailgate from the body aperture, taking
care not to damage the paintwork.
Refitting
Hatchback and Estate
25Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the tailgate is
located centrally in the body aperture, and
that the striker enters the lock centrally. If
necessary, loosen the mounting nuts and re-
position the tailgate as required.
Removal
1Support the tailgate in its open position.
2Prise off the upper spring clip securing the
strut to the tailgate, then pull the socket from
the ball-stud (see illustration).
3Similarly prise off the bottom clip (see
illustration), and pull the socket from the ball-
stud. Withdraw the strut.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the piston end
of the strut is fitted on the body (ie
downwards).
Removal
Lock barrel (Hatchback)
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2With the tailgate open, pull up the
weatherstrip for access to the lock. Remove
the screws and clips, and remove the trim
panel from the rear of the luggage
compartment.
3Unhook the parcel net, then remove the
screws and clips, and remove the rear
crossmember trim.
4Remove the screws, and prise out the rear
light trim cover from the guides.
5Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
6Slide the outer cable from the lock bracket.
Raise the inner cable until it is aligned with the
slot in the barrel lever, and disconnect it (see
illustration).
7Pull out the lock barrel locating spring clip.
8Detach the cable mounting bracket from
the barrel, and remove the barrel and cylinder
(see illustrations).
Lock barrel (Estate)
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
10Unclip and remove the tailgate trim panel.
Undo the three screws and remove the lock
shield, then unclip the door-ajar sensor.
11Working through the aperture in the
tailgate inner panel, pull out the lock barrel
locating spring clip. Unhook the operating rod
and withdraw the lock barrel.
Lock (Hatchback)
12Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
13With the tailgate open, pull up the
weatherstrip for access to the lock. Remove
the screws and clips, and remove the trim
panel from the rear of the luggage
compartment.
22 Tailgate lock components -
removal and refitting
21 Tailgate support strut-
removal and refitting
11•16 Bodywork and fittings
20.24 Tailgate hinge and bolts - Estate
models21.2 Prising the spring clip from the upper
end of the strut
21.3 Prising the spring clip from the lower
end of the strut
22.6 Tailgate lock barrel and bracket22.8A Removing the lock barrel . . .22.8B . . . and cylinder
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8Unscrew the mounting bolt securing the
seat belt stalk, and withdraw the stalk. Also
unscrew the mounting bolt from the lower
anchorage, where applicable (see
illustration).
Rear centre seat belt
9Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the
seat belt and stalks to the floor. Note that the
stalks are handed, and are marked Left or
Right.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the mounting nuts and
bolts to the specified torque.
Removal
Sun visor
1Disconnect the wiring for the vanity mirror
light, where fitted.
2Unscrew the mounting screws and remove
the visor.
3Prise up the cover, unscrew the inner
bracket mounting screws, and remove the
bracket.
Passenger grab handle
4Prise up the covers, then unscrew the
mounting screws and remove the grab
handle.
“A” pillar trim
5Pull away the door weatherstrip in the area
of the trim.
6Release the alarm and aerial wiring from the
upper and middle clips.
7Carefully press the trim away from the
upper and middle clips, and pull the trim
upwards. Recover the lower sealing strip.
8Remove the upper and middle clips from
the pillar.
“B” pillar and cowl side trim
9Pull away the door weatherstrip in the area
of the trim.
10Undo the screws, release the fasteners
and remove the lower trim (see illustrations).
11Carefully separate the lower trim from the
upper trim, using a screwdriver if necessary
(see illustration).
12Unscrew the seat belt mounting bolt from
under the front seat, remove the remaining
trim from the “B” pillar, and feed the belt
through the trim.
“C” pillar trim (Saloon and Hatchback)
13Pull away the door weatherstrip in the
area of the trim.
14Fold the rear seat cushion forwards.
15Pull up the rear seat bolster, and release
29 Interior trim panels-
removal and refitting
11•20 Bodywork and fittings
28.6B Removing the plastic cover from the
rear seat lock28.7A Rear seat belt shackle mounting
bolt28.7B Rear seat belt reel mounting bolt
29.10B Releasing the fasteners from the
cowl side trim29.11 Separating the “B” pillar lower and
upper trim
28.8 Rear seat belt lower anchorage29.10A Removing a middle screw from the
lower trim
29.15A Pull up the rear seat bolster . . .
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6Prise off the plastic caps, then unscrew the
centre console mounting screws. These are
located on each side, on the front top, and
inside the cassette storage box. The screws
with the washers go on the side of the
console; the front screws are smaller than the
others, and black in colour (see illustrations).
7Fully apply the handbrake lever. Withdraw
the centre console, at the same time passing
the gaiter over the handbrake lever (see
illustrations).
8Disconnect the cigar lighter wiring (see
illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2When applicable, remove the sunroof
switch (Chapter 12).
3When applicable, remove the sunroof
handle, after undoing the securing screw (see
illustration).
3Push the console towards the windscreen,
to disengage it from the clips.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Open the glovebox. Using a screwdriver,
carefully press in one side of the glovebox
near the hinge, to release it from the plastic
clip (see illustration).
2Withdraw the glovebox and, where
necessary, disconnect the wiring multi-plug
for the light.
3If necessary, the lock may be removed by
unscrewing the mounting screws and removing
the lock plate and spring (see illustration).
4To remove the lock barrel, depress the
spring tabs.
Refitting
5Locate the barrel in the lock plate, making
sure that the clips are fully engaged.
6Hold the latch pins together, and engage
the right-hand pin of the lock plate.
7Refit the spring, and engage the left-hand
pin of the lock plate.
8Refit the lock plate, and tighten the screws.
9Reconnect the wiring multi-plug and refit
the glovebox, making sure that it is fully
inserted in the plastic clips.
32 Glovebox -
removal and refitting
31 Overhead console -
removal and refitting
11•22 Bodywork and fittings
30.6C . . . at the sides . . .30.6D . . . and inside the cassette storage
box30.7A Withdrawing the front of the
console from the facia
31.3 Removing the sunroof handle
securing screw32.1 Glovebox removal
30.8 Disconnecting the cigar lighter wiring
30.7B Passing the gaiter over the
handbrake lever
32.3 Glovebox lock mounting screws
(arrowed)
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Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the windscreen wiper arms
(Chapter 12), then remove the cowl from just
in front of the windscreen. The cowl is in two
sections, with retaining screws located along
its front edge. With the cowl removed,
disconnect the speedometer cable by pulling
it from the intermediate inner cable extension.
3Remove the centre console (Section 30),
then unscrew the screws and remove the
heater side covers (see illustrations).
4Remove the steering column (Chapter 10).
5Remove the instrument panel (Chapter 12).
6Where fitted, unscrew the screws and
remove the automatic warning system
display.
7Remove the radio and (if fitted) the CD
player (Chapter 12).
8Remove the heater control panel (Chap-
ter 3).
9Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the
headlight switch panel, and disconnect the
wiring multi-plugs.
10Remove the glovebox (Section 32).
11Remove the small piece of carpet from
under the passenger side of the facia.
12Remove the side trim panels from the “A”and “B” pillars on each side of the vehicle
(Section 29). The upper panels on the “B”
pillars can be left in position.
13At the base of the right-hand “A” pillar,
disconnect the wiring multi-plugs, earth leads
and aerial, noting their fitted positions.
14Identify the position of the wiring multi-
plugs on the fusebox, then disconnect them.
15Disconnect the wiring from the footwell
lights, where fitted.
16Prise out the speedometer cable rubber
grommet at the bulkhead near the pedal
bracket, then release the cable from the clips.
17Remove the screws and withdraw the
glovebox side trim, for access to the side
facia mounting screw.
18Open the front doors. Prise off the trim
covers, then pull away the door weatherstrip
by the side mounting bolt positions on each
side (see illustrations).
19Unscrew the facia side mounting bolts.
20Unscrew the facia centre mounting bolts
(see illustrations).
21Withdraw the facia from the bulkhead, far
enough to be able to reach in behind it.
22Disconnect the remaining multi-plugs and
connections, noting their locations on the
various components for correct refitting. It will
also be necessary to release some wiring
loom holders, clips and plastic ties, and the
fresh air vent hoses (see illustration).
23Withdraw the facia from one side of the
vehicle.
33 Facia - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•23
11
33.20B Facia mounting bolt next to the
glovebox33.20C Facia centre mounting bolt next to
the heater panel33.20D Facia mounting bolt near the
heater
33.3A Unscrew the screws . . .33.3B . . . and remove the heater side
covers33.18A Prise off the covers . . .
33.18B . . . and pull away the weatherstrip
to reveal the facia mounting bolts
33.20A Facia mounting bolt positions (left-
hand-drive shown, right-hand-drive
similar)
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