gas type FORD SIERRA 1987 2.G CVH Engines Workshop Manual

1.8 litre (R6A type) engine
Note: Unless otherwise stated, the Specifications for this later version of the 1.8 litre CVH engine are as given for the earlier R2A type above.
General
Engine code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .R6A
Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5700 rpm
Maximum engine power (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 kW at 5200 rpm
Maximum engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Nm at 3000 rpm
Valve timing
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24º BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116º BTDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110º ATDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18º ATDC
1.6 litre engine
The 1.6 litre CVH engine was introduced in
September 1991, to replace the 1.6 litre
SOHC engine used previously in the Sierra
range. The engine is broadly similar to the 1.8
litre (R2A type) CVH engine described below.
The main differences are outlined in the
following paragraphs.
The centre main bearing is fitted with
thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat,
instead of a flanged bearing shell.
The hydraulic cam followers operate in a
similar manner to those described for the 1.8
litre (R2A) engine but no rollers are fitted, and
the base of each cam follower is in direct
contact with the cam profile.
A distributorless ignition system is used and
a blanking plate is therefore fitted to the cylinder
head in place of the distributor drive. The
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.
A comprehensive emissions control system
is fitted, comprising Central Fuel Injection
(CFI), a sophisticated engine management
system, a crankcase ventilation system, a
catalytic converter, and a pulseair system (to
reduce exhaust gas emissions).
Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are
as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A) engine.
1.8 litre (R2A type) engine
The CVH (Compound Valve angle,
Hemispherical combustion chambers) engine
is of four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead
camshaft type. The engine was introduced to
replace the 1.8 SOHC engine previously used
in the range.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. The centre main bearing has a
flanged bearing shell (thrust bearing) fitted to
the cylinder block to control crankshaft endfloat
The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt and
operates the compound angled valves via roller
type hydraulic cam followers, which eliminates
the need for valve clearance adjustment. The
cam followers operate in the following way.
When the valve is closed, pressurised engine
oil passes through ports in the body of the cam
follower and the plunger into the cylinder feed
chamber. From this chamber, oil flows through
a ball type non-return valve into the pressurechamber. The tension of the coil spring causes
the plunger to press the rocker arm against the
valve and to eliminate any free play.
As the cam lifts the cam follower, the oil
pressure in the pressure chamber increases
and causes the non-return valve to close the
port to the feed chamber. As oil cannot be
compressed, it forms a rigid link between the
body of the cam follower, the cylinder and the
plunger which then rise as one component to
open the valve.
The clearance between the body of the cam
follower and the cylinder is accurately designed
to meter a specific quantity of oil as it escapes
from the pressure chamber. Oil will only pass
along the cylinder bore when pressure is high
during the moment of valve opening. Once the
valve has closed, the escape of oil will produce
a small amount of free play and no pressure will
exist in the pressure chamber. Oil from the feed
chamber can then flow through the non-return
valve into the pressure chamber so that the
cam follower cylinder can be raised by the
pressure of the coil spring, thus eliminating any
play in the arrangement until the valve is
operated again.
As wear occurs between rocker arm and
valve stem, the quantity of oil which flows into
the pressure chamber will be slightly more
than the quantity lost during the expansion
cycle of the cam follower. Conversely, when
the cam follower is compressed by the
expansion of the valve, a slightly smaller
quantity of oil will flow into the pressure
chamber than was lost.
To reduce valve clatter when the engine is
started, a small plastic stand pipe retains oil
inside the plunger. When the engine is started,
the reservoir in the plunger (and via the non-
return valve, the pressure chamber) are
immediately filled with oil. This reduces the
noise often associated with hydraulic cam
followers as they pressurise with oil after
engine start-up.
The cam follower rollers run in needle
bearings, which greatly reduces friction as the
rollers follow the cam profile.
The distributor and fuel pump are driven
directly from the camshaft and the oil pump is
driven directly from the front of the crankshaft.
The cylinder head is of crossflow design,
with the inlet manifold mounted on the right-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the left-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pumpwhich draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the oil galleries where it is
distributed to the crankshaft and camshaft.
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via
internal drillings in the crankshaft. The
undersides of the pistons are supplied with oil
from drillings in the big-ends. The hydraulic
cam followers are supplied with oil from the
camshaft bearings via short passages in the
cylinder head.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn from the crankcase, through the
camshaft cover via an external vent hose, out
to an oil separator built into the base of the air
cleaner.
1.8 litre (R6A type) engine
The 1.8 litre (R6A type) CVH engine,
introduced in March 1992, is a further
development of the earlier 1.8 litre (R2A type)
unit described above. Apart from minor
engineering modifications to provide
increased fuel economy, reliability and power
output, the engine is mechanically identical to
the earlier version.
In common with the 1.6 litre unit, a
distributorless ignition system is used,
together with a comprehensive emissions
control system comprising Central Fuel
Injection (CFI), a sophisticated engine
management system, a crankcase ventilation
system, a catalytic converter, and additionally,
an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.
Unless otherwise stated, all procedures are
as described for the 1.8 litre (R2A type)
engine.
Refer to Section 2, Chapter 2, Part A.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.
Refer to Section 5, Chapter 2, Part A.
4Compression test
3Crankcase ventilation system -
inspection and maintenance
2Engine oil and filter - renewal
1General information
CVH engines 2C•5
2C

29Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the radiator fins (see illustration).
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
30Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5.
31Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing, noting their locations.
32Disconnect the lower radiator hose from
the coolant pump elbow and, where
applicable, disconnect the heater hose from
the T-piece on the lower radiator hose.
33On 1.6 engines, disconnect the coolant
hose from the central fuel injection (CFI) unit.
34Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold by carefully pressing
the clip on the inlet manifold connector into
the manifold using a screwdriver, and
withdrawing the hose.
35Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
inlet manifold, noting their locations.
36On 1.6 litre engines, disconnect the two
hoses from the pulse-air system check valves
(see illustration).
37Gradually loosen the fuel inlet pipe union
on the CFI unit, to relieve the pressure in the
fuel system. Be prepared for fuel spray, and
take adequate fire precautions. Once the
pressure has reduced, disconnect the fuel
inlet and return hoses. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
38Disconnect the throttle cable, if
necessary.
39Disconnect the wiring from the following
components, as applicable.
Alternator
Starter motor
Oil pressure warning lamp switch
Temperature gauge sender
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Inlet air temperature sensor
Ignition coil
Throttle stepper motor
Throttle position sensor
Fuel injector
Cooling fan switch
Air charge temperature sensor
Engine earth strap to battery tray
40On 1.8 litre engine models with power
steering, slacken the power steering pump
pulley bolts, then remove the alternator/power
steering pump drivebelt. Remove the pulley,
unbolt the power steering pump from its
bracket, and move it clear of the engine.41Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment.
42Apply the handbrake (if not already done),
jack up the front of the vehicle and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
43Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
44Remove the starter motor.
45Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring connector, then remove the
exhaust downpipe.
46Disconnect the wiring plug from the
crankshaft speed/position sensor.
47Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine
mountings to the crossmember. Recover the
washers.
48Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, noting the location
of the earth strap and any wiring brackets,
and remove the two bolts from the engine
adapter plate (see illustration).
49Unscrew the securing bolt, and remove
the crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud
(where fitted).
50On 1.6 litre engines, working inside the
vehicle, place a wooden block under the
clutch pedal to raise it fully against its stop.
This will hold the automatic adjuster pawl
clear of the toothed quadrant. Disconnect the
clutch cable from the release arm, and pass
the cable through the bellhousing. Note the
cable routing for use when refitting.
51Proceed as shown in paragraphs 25 to 29.Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive. Additionally, if
applicable disconnect the kickdown cable
from the carburettor.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the vacuum pipe bracket and transmission
dipstick tube bracket.
3Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 17 to 21 inclusive.
4Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
5Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, noting the location of
the earth strap, and remove the two bolts
from the engine adapter plate. Where
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
adapter plate.
6Lower the vehicle to the ground and
support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
7Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
8Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. The engine should be supported
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
9Raise the engine until the engine mounting
studs are clear of the crossmember, then pull
the engine forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission, lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the radiator fins.
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
required for this operation.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 1 to 15 inclusive.
2Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
gear lever knob and remove the centre
10Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
9Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
CVH engines 2C•7
2C
8.48 Engine adapter plate bolts (A) and
crankshaft speed/position sensor shroud
(B) - 1.6 litre
8.36 Pulse-air system check valves
(arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)8.29 Lifting the engine from the vehicle -
1.8 litre (R2A)

1.8 litre (R2A type)
Dismantling
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
the engine and also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
7Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts
and washers to their locations after removing
the relevant components. This will help to
protect the threads and will also prevent
possible losses.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new components
supplied.
9A suitable Torx socket will be required to
remove the oil pump cover securing screws.
10Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed:
Inlet manifold and carburettor
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump and operating pushrod
Alternator
Spark plugs
Oil pressure warning lamp switch (see
illustration)
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
Engine lifting brackets
Examination and renovation
11Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, PartA.
Reassembly
12To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it mustalso be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with engine oil during assembly.
13Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
14Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
15If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts, big-end bolts/nuts and new
flywheel bolts will be required.
16After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 10 and refit
the ancillary components listed. Delicate
items such as the alternator may be left until
after the engine has been refitted.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Dismantling
17Refer to paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive.
18Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed:
Inlet manifold and CFI unit.
Exhaust manifold .
Alternator.
Spark plugs and HT leads.
Ignition coil and mounting bracket.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
Oil filter.
Dipstick and tube.
Engine mounting brackets.
Clutch.
Alternator mounting bracket.Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
Engine lifting brackets.
Crankcase ventilation hose.
Examination and renovation
19Refer to Section 18 in Chapter 2, PartA.
Reassembly
20Refer to paragraphs 12 to 16 but note that
new rocker arm nuts will be required, if they
have been removed.
Note: The belt tension should be checked
using Ford special tool No 21-113 after
refitting. A suitable puller may be required to
remove the sprockets. If the camshaft
sprocket is removed, a new retaining bolt
must be used on refitting, and suitable sealant
(Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue) will be
required to coat the bolt threads.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the alternator drivebelt
c)Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm and
housing
d)Disconnect the wiring plug from the
crankshaft speed/position sensor
e)Unclip the coolant hoses from the timing
cover, and position them across the top
of the camshaft cover out of the way
f)If desired for improved access, remove
the fan shroud and cooling fan assembly,
although this is not essential
2Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
3Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley (see illustration). If the pulley will
not come off easily, refit the bolt part way and
use a puller, but take care not to damage the
sensor toothed disc.
18Timing belt and sprockets -
removal and refitting
17Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
2C•10CVH engines
17.10 Removing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch - 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.5 Withdrawing the timing cover -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.3 Withdrawing the crankshaft pulley -
1.8 litre (R2A)

Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 20 before proceeding.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the coolant pump elbow, and the coolant
bypass hose from the left-hand side of the
cylinder head, then unclip the hoses from the
timing cover and move them to one side out
of the way (see illustrations).
4Remove the air cleaner.5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and coil, identifying them for position if
necessary, unclip the leads from the camshaft
cover, then remove the distributor cap, rotor
arm and housing. Remove the spark plugs.
6Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
from the battery tray.
7The cylinder head can be removed either with
or without the manifolds. If desired, the inlet
manifold can be unbolted and moved to one
side, leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to strain
any of the wires, hoses, pipes or cables.
8Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifoid flange. Recover the gasket.
9If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
10If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevantwires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported (see
illustration).
11If desired, remove the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
12Proceed as described in Section 20 to
complete cylinder head removal.
Refitting
13With the cylinder head refitted as
described in Section 20, proceed as follows.
14Where applicable, refit the fuel pump and
operating pushrod.
15Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
16Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket.
17Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
18Refit the spark plugs, then refit the
distributor cap, rotor arm and housing, and
reconnect the HT leads.
19Refit the air cleaner.
20Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
coolant pump elbow and the cylinder head,
and locate them in the clip on the timing
cover.
21Fill the cooling system.
22Reconnect the battery negative lead.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Removal
23Disconnect the battery negative lead.
24Drain the cooling system.
25Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing, and the bypass hose
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head,
then move them to one side out of the way.
26Remove the air cleaner.
27Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, identifying them for position if
necessary. Unclip them from the camshaft
cover, and move them to one side out of the
way.
28Remove the spark plugs.
29Disconnect the cylinder head earth lead
from the battery tray.
30The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds. If desired, the
inlet manifold can be unbolted and moved to
one side (after unbolting the dipstick tube),19Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
CVH engines 2C•13
2C
19.10 Withdraw the inlet manifold -
1.8 litre (R2A)19.3b Coolant bypass hose connection at
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)19.3a Disconnecting the heater coolant
hose from the coolant pump elbow -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.33d Oil pump TDC lug (A) and
crankshaft sprocket lug (B) -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)18.33c Removing the lower timing cover -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)
18.33b Removing the upper timing cover -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)18.33a Upper timing cover securing bolts
(arrowed) - 1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)

leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected. However, care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses or cables.
31Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring connector (see illustration)
then unscrew the three securing bolts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
32If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
33If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported.
34Note the information given in paragraphs
18 to 21 inclusive of Section 20.
Refitting
35With the cylinder head refitted, proceed
as follows.
36Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables as applicable.
37Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold using a new gasket, and reconnect
the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring
connector.
38Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
39Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the
HT leads.
40Refit the air cleaner.
41Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing and cylinder head.
42Fill the cooling system.
43Reconnect the battery negative lead.Note: The cylinder head bolts must always be
renewed after slackening, and a new cylinder
head gasket and camshaft cover gasket must
be used on refitting. If the engine has recently
run, the cylinder head must be allowed to cool
to room temperature before it is removed.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprocket,
and timing belt backplate.
3Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the camshaft cover.
4Unscrew the nine securing bolts and
remove the camshaft cover and gasket (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a
turn at a time in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening.
6With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block (see illustration). If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the
joint between the cylinder head and block as
this may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.7Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose (see illustration).
Refitting
8Commence refitting as follows.
9Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
open valves.
10Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels to the
block where applicable, and locate a new
gasket over the dowels with the red sealing
bead and the “1.8” mark uppermost (see
illustrations). Do not use jointing compound.
11Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the
dot on the cylinder head front face.
12Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
13Insert the new cylinder head bolts into
their locations in the cylinder head, then
tighten the bolts in the order shown to the five
stages given in the Specifications (see
illustrations).
14Fit a new camshaft cover gasket to the
cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket
locates correctly over the edges of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
15Refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
bolts evenly, ensuring that the studded bolts
which retain the HT lead clips are refitted to
their correct positions (see illustration).
20Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
2C•14CVH engines
19.31 Disconnecting the exhaust gas
oxygen sensor wiring connector -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)20.6 Withdraw the cylinder head bolts and
lift the cylinder head from the block -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.10b . . . then locate a new gasket with
the red sealing bead and “1.8” mark
uppermost - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.10a Fit the locating dowels (arrowed) to
the block . . .20.7 Recover the cylinder head gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.4 Remove the camshaft cover and
gasket - 1.8 litre (R2A)

16Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the camshaft cover.
17Refit the timing belt backplate, camshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
18With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
19Remove the timing belt.
20Proceed as shown in paragraphs 3 to 16
inclusive, noting the following differences for
the 1.6 litre engine only:
a)Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the
reverse order to that shown for tightening.
b)The cylinder head gasket is identified by a
single tooth on its edge, and the gasket
must be fitted with the tooth nearest theoil filter end of the engine, as shown (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
order shown (see illustration), to the four
stages given in the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter.
d)Ignore the reference to the studded
camshaft cover bolts.
21On completion, refit the timing belt.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on
reassembly.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Dismantling
1With the cylinder head removed, remove
the camshaft.
2Using a valve spring compressor, compress
one of the valve springs until the split collets
can be removed from the grooves in the valve
stem. Release the compressor and remove
the cap and spring, identifying them for
location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
Always make sure that the compressor is
firmly located on the valve head and the cap
(see illustrations).
3Prise the oil seal from the valve stem, and
remove the spring seat, then withdraw the
valve (see illustrations).
21Cylinder head - dismantling
and reassembly
CVH engines 2C•15
2C
20.14 Ensure that the camshaft cover
gasket locates over the edges of the
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
21.2c . . . then remove the cap and spring -
1.8 litre (R2A)21.2b . . . to free the split collets . . .
20.20b Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.6 litre20.20a Cylinder head gasket correctly
located - 1.6 litre
A Locating dowelsB Identification teeth
21.2a Compress the valve spring . . .
20.13b Tighten the cylinder head bolts
using an angle gauge - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.13a Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.8 litre (R2A)
20.15 Fit the camshaft cover, ensuring that
the studded bolts (arrowed) are correctly
located - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Note: New flywheel securing bolts must be
used on refitting.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, PartA but
also note the following points.
2The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
compound (see illustration).
3The ring gear cannot be renewed
independently of the flywheel/driveplate. If the
ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, a
new flywheel/driveplate must be fitted.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
4Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, PartA,
noting the following points.
5If the engine is in the vehicle, refer to
Chapter 6 when removing the clutch.
6The flywheel securing bolts must be
renewed when refitting, and the new bolts are
supplied ready-coated with thread-locking
compound.
7The ring gear cannot be renewed
independently of the flywheel. If the ring gear
is badly worn or has missing teeth, a new
flywheel must be fitted. Similarly, the flywheel
must be renewed if the crankshaft
speed/position sensor toothed disc is
damaged.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
2Withdraw the oil seal using an oil seal
removal tool or by drilling the oil seal outer
face and using self-tapping screws and a pair
of grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then smear the
lip of a new oil seal with clean engine oil.
4Fit the oil seal using the crankshaft pulley
bolt and a suitable tool similar to that shown
(see illustration).5As the seal is drawn into position, the inner
edge of the seal may be damaged as it passes
over the end of the shaft. To prevent this, as
soon as the seal begins to locate in the
housing remove the tools being used to fit the
seal, and carefully work the inner edge of the
seal over the end of the crankshaft, using a
small screwdriver or similar blunt tool. The
seal can then be pushed home using the tools
described previously (see illustration).
6Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket
and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
7Remove the timing belt, and the crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4
inclusive.
9Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket
and timing belt.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate.
2Prise out the oil seal. If necessary, drill the
outer face of the oil seal and use self-tappingscrews and a pair of grips to withdraw the
seal (see illustration).
3Clean the oil seal housing, then fit the new
oil seal using two flywheel/driveplate securing
bolts and a tool similar to that shown (see
illustration). A suitable tool can be
improvised using a narrow strip of metal sheet
bent to form a circle of the correct diameter,
and a large metal disc with appropriate holes
drilled to allow the flywheel/driveplate
securing bolts to pass through. Make sure
that the seal lip faces into the engine and
lightly smear the lip with clean engine oil.
4Refit the flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new gasket and new sump bolts must
be used when refitting, and suitable sealant will
be required (available from a Ford dealer). Note
that it is preferable to keep the engine upright
until the sump has been removed to prevent
sludge from entering the engine internals.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
3Unscrew the fourteen securing bolts and
withdraw the two reinforcing strips and the
sump. If the sump is stuck, carefully tap it
sideways to free it. Do not prise between the
mating faces.
27Sump - removal and refitting
26Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
25Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
24Flywheel/driveplate - removal,
inspection and refitting
CVH engines 2C•19
2C
25.5 Crankshaft front oil seal (arrowed)
located in oil pump housing - 1.8 litre (R2A)26.3 Using a special tool to fit the
crankshaft rear oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)26.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location
(arrowed)
25.4 Using a special tool to fit the
crankshaft front oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)24.2 Using an improvised tool to hold the
flywheel stationary while tightening the
securing bolts - 1.8 litre (R2A)
A tool can be improvised to fit
the crankshaft front oil seal
by using a metal tube of
suitable diameter and a large
washer or metal disc. Do not attempt to
drive the seal home using a tube drift.

4Recover the gasket.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the cylinder block, oil pump housing and
crankshaft rear oil seal housing mating faces
at the points shown (see illustration). Note
that the sump must be fitted within ten
minutes of applying the sealing compound.
7Fit a new gasket, ensuring that it engages
correctly in the grooves in the crankshaft rear
oil seal carrier and the oil pump housing (see
illustration).
8Locate the sump on the gasket and loosely
fit the securing bolts.
9Tighten all the bolts slightly to obtain a light
and even gasket preload.
10Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in
the sequence shown (see illustration). Note
that the ten M8 bolts and the four M6 bolts
are tightened to different torques.
11Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Note: The following procedure applies to the
1.6 litre CVH engine. For the 1.8 litre (R6Atype) engine, proceed as described above for
the 1.8 litre (R2A type).
Removal
12Sump removal and refitting is easier if the
engine is removed from the vehicle. However,
if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows. If the engine has been removed from
the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 15.
13Remove the clutch.
14Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
15Remove the flywheel and the engine
adapter plate.
16Unscrew the eighteen securing bolts and
withdraw the sump. If the sump is stuck,
carefully tap it sideways to free it. Do not prise
between the mating faces. Recover the
gasket.
17Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
18Apply sealing compound to the joints
between the oil pump and the cylinder block,
and the crankshaft rear oil seal housing and
the cylinder block, as shown (see
illustration).
19Without applying any further sealer, locate
the gasket into the grooves of the oil pump
and the rear oil seal housing. To hold the
gasket in position, studs can be inserted
temporarily in the bolt hole positions circled in
the illustration indicating the bolt tightening
sequence. Make sure that the gasket spacing
pips are seated correctly.20Locate the sump on the gasket, taking
care not to displace the gasket, then loosely
fit the securing bolts. With the sump in
position, where applicable remove the studs
from the bolt holes, and loosely fit the
remaining securing bolts.
21Tighten the bolts to the torque given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter, in two stages, and in the sequence
shown (see illustration).
22Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel.
23If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
clutch. Refill the engine with oil.
Note: New oil pump and oil pick-up tube
gaskets should be used when refitting.
Removal
1With the engine removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
3Remove the sump.
4Unscrew and remove the nut securing the
oil strainer/pick-up tube to No 4 main bearing
cap (see illustration).
5Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the two
bolts securing the oil pick-up tube to the oil
pump, and withdraw the oil strainer/pick-up
tube. Recover the washers and gasket (see
illustration).
28Oil pump - removal and
refitting
2C•20CVH engines
27.6 Apply sealing compound to the areas
shown before fitting the sump gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)27.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.8 litre (R2A)
27.21 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.6 litre
Arrow indicates front of engine
27.18 Apply sealing compound at the
points arrowed before refitting the sump -
1.6 litre
A Oil pump/cylinder block joint
B Crankshaft rear oil seal
housing/cylinder block joint
27.7 Ensure that the gasket locates
correctly on the oil pump housing -
1.8 litre (R2A)
28.4 Oil strainer/pick-up tube securing nut
(arrowed) on No 4 main bearing cap

6Unscrew and remove the six securing bolts,
and withdraw the oil pump over the front of
the crankshaft. Recover the gasket.
Refitting
7Commence refitting by prising the
crankshaft front oil seal from the pump
housing.
8Prime the pump by injecting clean engine
oil into it and turning it by hand.
9Using a new gasket, fit the oil pump over
the front of the crankshaft, ensuring that the
central rotor engages with the flats on the
crankshaft (see illustration). Fit the securing
bolts, and using a straight-edge, ensure that
the bottom face of the oil pump is aligned with
the bottom face of the cylinder block before
finally tightening the bolts.
10Using a new gasket, fit the oil pick-up
tube to the oil pump and secure with the two
bolts.11Refit the oil strainer/pick-up tube securing
nut to No 4 main bearing cap.
12Refit the sump.
13Fit the crankshaft front oil seal using a
suitable tool.
14Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
seven securing bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
3Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can
be refitted in their original positions, then lift
the rotors from the pump housing (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustration).
5Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or
paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
6Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring,
and screw the plug into place.
7Lubricate the rotors and fit them, observingthe marks made when dismantling, if
applicable.
8The necessary clearances may now be
checked using a machined straight-edge
(such as a good steel rule) and a set of feeler
blades. The critical clearances are between
the lobes of the centre rotor and convex faces
of the outer rotor; between the outer rotor and
pump body; and between both rotors and the
cover plate (endfloat). The serviceable
clearances are given in the Specifications.
9Endfloat can be measured by placing a
straight-edge across the pump body and
measuring the clearance between the two
rotors and the straight-edge using feeler
blades.
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
12The procedure is as described above but
refer to the Specifications at the beginning of
this Chapter for the rotor clearances.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Check the big-end caps for identification
marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see
illustration).
3Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts or
bolts and tap off the cap. Keep the bearing
shells in the cap and connecting rod.
4Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
5Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and
4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.
30Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
29Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
CVH engines 2C•21
2C
29.2 Remove the oil pump cover
30.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification marks (arrowed) -
1.8 litre (R2A)29.4 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug
and withdraw the spring and plunger29.3 Lifting out the oil pump inner rotor
28.9 Refitting the oil pump28.5 Removing the oil pick-up tube from
the oil pump