jack points FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

6Where applicable, remove the brake pipes
from the clips on the crossmember, taking
care not to strain them, and detach any cables
or electrical leads which may be secured with
clips or cable-ties, noting their positions.
7Support the crossmember with a jack, then
unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts
(see illustration).
8Lower the crossmember and withdraw it
from under the vehicle.
9If desired, the engine mountings can now
be unbolted from the crossmember.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear
in mind the following points.
11Do not tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. This is to prevent “wind up” of the
rubber bushes which will occur when the
vehicle is lowered if the bolts have been
tightened with no load on the suspension. The
following procedure must be used when
tightening the pivot bolts. Tighten the bolt to
the specified “clamping” torque, then loosen
the bolt fully. Re-tighten to the specified
“snug” torque and then further tighten the bolt
through the specified angle.
12Refit any cables or electrical leads in their
original positions, where applicable.
13When lowering the engine onto its
mountings, ensure that the locating pegs on
the mountings engage with the holes in the
mounting brackets.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable) (see
illustration).4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut from the lower arm balljoint.
Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the lower arm from the hub carrier. The lower
arm can now be withdrawn from the vehicle.
Recover the remaining dished washer and
plastic cover (where applicable) from the end
of the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
6If the lower arm has been removed due to a
worn balljoint, the complete arm must be
renewed.
7The anti-roll bar compliance bushes can be
renewed as described in Section 8, but note
that the bushes on both sides of the vehicle
must be renewed at the same time. The lower
arm inner pivot bush can be renewed as
described in Section 9.
Refitting
8To refit the lower arm, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washer (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic cover
(where applicable) to the end of the anti-roll
bar, then refit the lower arm to the anti-roll
bar. Fit the remaining plastic cover (where
applicable) and the deep dished washer
(colour coded yellow or black) and refit the
securing nut. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage. Note that the convex faces of the
dished washers must face the lower arm.10Reconnect the balljoint to the hub carrier,
refit the castellated nut and tighten to the
specified torque. Fit a new split pin.
11Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
12Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
13Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: A spring compressor tool will be
required if the strut is to be dismantled.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hose.
4Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and detach the
wire from the clip on the strut. Unplug the
connector and place the sensor to one side.
5Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut. Using a
suitable lever, such as a cold chisel, lever the
hub carrier clamp legs and wedge them apart.
6Lever the suspension lower arm
downwards to separate the hub carrier from
the bottom of the strut.
4Front suspension strut -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3Front suspension lower arm -
removal,overhaul and refitting
11•4Suspension and steering
2.3 Engine mounting nut (arrowed)
3.3 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut (arrowed)3.2 Front suspension lower arm-to-
crossmember pivot bolt and nut
2.7 Front suspension crossmember
mounting bolts (arrowed)

7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the strut upper mounting nut, at the
same time supporting the strut from below.
Use a 6 mm Allen key inserted in the end of
the strut piston rod to prevent the rod from
turning as the upper mounting nut is
unscrewed (see illustration). On some
models, the upper mounting nut may be fitted
with a plastic cover. Note the upper mounting
cup under the nut.
8Withdraw the strut from under the wing of
the vehicle.
Overhaul
9To dismantle the strut, proceed as follows.
10Using spring compressors, compress the
coil spring. Do not attempt to compress the
spring without using purpose-made spring
compressors, as the spring is under
considerable tension, and personal injury may
occur if it is suddenly released (see
illustration).
11Hold the piston rod as described in
paragraph 7, unscrew the nut from the pistonrod and remove the lower cup, bearing, spring
seat, gaiter, coil spring and bump stop (see
illustration).
12Working in the engine compartment,
remove the upper cup and nylon spacer, and
if required prise out the rubber insulator.
13Clean all the components and examine
them for wear and damage. Check the action
of the shock absorber by mounting it vertically
in a vice and operating the piston rod several
times through its full stroke. If any uneven
resistance is evident, the shock absorber
must be renewed. Renew any worn or
damaged components as applicable.
Refitting
14Reassembly and refitting is a reversal of
dismantling and removal, bearing in mind the
following points.
15When reassembling, ensure that the gaiter
is fitted over the bump stop, and that the ends
of the coil spring are correctly located on the
spring seats. Also ensure that the bearing is
correctly located on the upper spring seat.
16Fit the nylon spacer over the piston rod
before fitting the strut to the top mounting.
17Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
18On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or suspend it with wire
from the coil spring to avoid straining the hose.
4Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, and on Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate models, remove the
retaining screw or spire washer(s), as
applicable, and remove the disc. On P100
models, unscrew the five retaining nuts and
remove the wheel adapter plate and disc.
5Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and unplug the
wiring connector. Place the sensor to one side.
6Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut securing the tie-rod end to the
hub carrier. Using a balljoint separator tool,
disconnect the tie-rod end from the hub carrier.
7Repeat the procedure given in the previous
paragraph for the lower arm-to-hub carrier
balljoint.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut (see
illustration). Using a suitable lever, such as a
cold chisel, lever the hub carrier clamp legs
and wedge them apart. Withdraw the hub
carrier from the strut.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new split pins on the castellated nuts, and
align the previously made marks on the brake
disc and hub. Tighten all fixings to the
specified torque.
10On P100 models align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
5Front hub carrier -removaland
refitting
Suspension and steering 11•5
11
5.8 Unscrewing the hub carrier-to-strut
pinch-bolt
4.11 Cross-section of the front strut upper mounting
A Bearing
B Nylon spacer
C Upper cupD Rubber insulator
E Lower cup
F Spring seatG Bump stop
H Gaiter
4.10 Suspension strut fitted with spring
compressors
4.7 Hold the strut piston rod with a 6 mm
Allen key when unscrewing the upper
mounting nut

pivot pin. Take care not to lose the
components (see illustration).
5Remove the brake cable sheaths from their
brackets on the vehicle underbody.
6Unscrew the brake pipes from the brake
hoses at the brackets on the vehicle
underbody. Plug the ends of the pipes and
hoses to prevent leakage and dirt ingress,
then detach the hoses from the brackets by
removing the U-shaped retaining clips (see
illustration).
7Where applicable, disconnect the ABS
sensors, and detach the leads from the clips
on the lower arms.
8Place suitable blocks beneath the rear
wheels, then lower the vehicle so that the rear
coil springs are lightly loaded. Reposition the
axle stands under the side members.
9Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
10Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the two anti-roll bar mountings from the
underbody.
11Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing each of the front guide plates to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tabs on the larger bolts.
12Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the final drive unit rear mounting to
the underbody. Note the location and number
of any shims which may be fitted (see
illustration).
13Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
disconnect the shock absorber upper
mountings. On Saloon and Hatchbackmodels, access is gained by removing the
trim covers behind the side cushions. Each
cover is secured by two self-tapping screws,
and the shock absorber is secured by a bolt
and nut. On Estate models, fold down the rear
seat backrest, fold back the floor covering
and remove the front section of the luggage
compartment floor, which is secured with 12
self-tapping screws. Remove the nut and
washer from the shock absorber.
14Using a jack and a wooden beam
positioned beneath the longitudinal
underbody side members, raise the rear of the
vehicle until the rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly can be withdrawn from
under the vehicle.
15If desired, the assembly can be
dismantled with reference to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter and Chapter 9.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolts by bending up the
lockwasher tabs.
18Ensure that the coil springs are located
correctly on their seats on the vehicle
underbody.
19When refitting the final drive rear mounting
to the underbody, refit any shims in their original
noted positions, and fit the bolts with reference
to the note at the beginning of this Section.
20Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
21On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake. With the vehicle level,
check the final drive unit oil level.
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Remove the relevant driveshaft.
3Remove the handbrake cable from the clip
on the lower arm.
4Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm. Plug the
ends of the pipe and hose to prevent leakage
and dirt ingress, then detach the hose from
the bracket by removing the U-shaped
retaining clip (see illustration).
5Unscrew the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder on the brake backplate and plug the
end of the pipe and the cylinder to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
6Unscrew the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the lower arm and tie the
backplate to one side.
7Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
8Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
9Remove the shock absorber.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tab(s) on the larger bolt.
11Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring and rubber cup.
12Note the orientation of the two lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
then unscrew and remove them and withdraw
the lower arm from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
13If the lower arm is to be renewed, unclip
the brake pipe, and refit to the new arm.
14If required, the pivot bushes may be
renewed using a long bolt, nut, washers and a
suitable metal tube. Lubricate the new bushes
with soapy water before fitting.
11Rear suspension lower arm
(Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) -removaland
refitting
11•8Suspension and steering
10.4 Handbrake equaliser-to-operating rod
circlip and pivot pin (arrowed)10.11 Rear suspension front guide plate -
lockwasher arrowed
11.4 Brake pipe bracket on lower arm. U-
shaped retaining clip arrowed10.12 Final drive unit-to-underbody rear
mounting
10.6 Rear underbody brake pipe bracket -
U-shaped hose retaining clip arrowed

Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
17Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
18On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Models with rear disc brakes
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
19With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
loosen the rear hub nut. A suitable extension
bar will be required, as the nut is extremely
tight. Note that the left-hand nut has a
left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise
direction. Before loosening the nut, ensure
that the handbrake is applied, and chock the
relevant rear wheel.
20Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, jack
up the rear of the car and support on axle
stands placed under the side members.
21Remove the rear roadwheel.
22Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie from the joint.
23Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm (see
illustration). Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the bracket by removing
the U-shaped retaining clip.
24Remove the handbrake cable from the
clip on the lower arm.
25Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it to one
side, taking care not to strain the brake hose.
26Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the hub, remove the retaining spire
washer(s), and remove the disc.
27Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid strainingthe joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
28Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller pull off the drive flange.
29Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield.
Note that the stub axle is retained in the hub
carrier.
30Disconnect the ABS sensor, and detach
the lead from the clip on the lower arm.
31Remove the propeller shaft.
32Proceed as shown in paragraphs 7 to 14
inclusive.
Refitting
33Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
34Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tabs.
35When refitting the hub carrier to the lower
arm note that there are two types of bolts used
. The two types of bolt must not be mixed on a
vehicle, but can be changed in complete sets
for the alternative type. A complete set is eight
bolts, four each side. Note that the two types
of bolt have different torque wrench settings.
When renewing the wheel bearings a suitable
puller will be required to remove the drive
flange, and a new rear hub nut must be used
on reassembly.36When refitting the drive flange to the hub
assembly, use a new hub nut, and leave
tightening until the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. Apply the handbrake and chock the
relevant rear wheel when tightening the nut.
37When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and hub.
38Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
39On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Saloon and Hatchback models
1With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt and nut from the relevant
lower arm (see illustration). If desired, the
rear of the vehicle can be raised on ramps to
improve access.
2Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
remove the trim cover behind the side
cushion. The cover is secured by two
self-tapping screws (see illustrations).
12Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•9
11
11.23 Rear suspension lower arm brake
pipe brackets (arrowed)
A Left-hand bracketB Right-hand bracket
12.1 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
- Saloon and Hatchback models
11.12 Lower arm-to-crossmember inner
pivot11.10 Rear suspension front guide plate
12.2a Remove the trim cover . . .

3With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting bolt and nut. Withdraw
the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts securely.
Estate models
Note: On models fitted with heavy duty
Nivomat shock absorbers, follow the
procedure given in Section 13, as the shock
absorber and coil spring are an integrated unit.
5With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to unscrew
and remove the two shock absorber lower
mounting bolts from the relevant lower arm(see
illustration).If desired, the rear of the vehicle
can be raised on ramps to improve access.
6Working inside the rear of the vehicle, fold
down the rear seat backrest, fold back the
floor covering and remove the front section of
the luggage compartment floor, which is
secured with 12 self-tapping screws.
7With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting nut and washer (see
illustration). Withdraw the shock absorber
from under the vehicle.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts and nut securely.
P100 models
9With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting nut, washer, and rubber
insulator. If desired, the rear of the vehicle can
be raised on ramps to improve access.10Unscrew and remove the top mounting
bolt, nut and washer from the chassis
crossmember. Withdraw the shock absorber
upwards.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolt and nut securely.
Models with rear drum brakes
1Remove the relevant driveshaft.
2Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the vehicle underbody.
Plug the ends of the pipe and hose to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
3Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
4Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
5On Saloon and Hatchback models, unscrew
and remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and nut from the lower arm.
6On Estate models fitted with standard
shock absorbers, remove the shock absorber
as described in Section 12. On Estate models
fitted with heavy duty Nivomat shock
absorbers, disconnect the upper and lower
mountings.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.8Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring, or coil spring/heavy duty shock
absorber as applicable, and the rubber cup.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
11Refit the driveshaft.
12On completion, bleed the brakes.
Models with rear disc brakes
13Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
14Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid straining
the joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
15Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 8
inclusive.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal. Where
applicable, secure the larger front guide plate
bolt by bending up the lockwasher tab(s), and
on completion, bleed the brakes.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
With rear drum brakes
Note: There are two types of bolts used to
secure the rear hub carrier to the lower arm
(see illustration). The two types of bolt must
not be mixed on a vehicle, but can be changed
in complete sets for the alternative type. A
complete set is eight bolts, four each side.
Note that the two types of bolt have different
torque wrench settings. When renewing the
wheel bearings a suitable puller will be
required to remove the drive flange, and a new
rear hub nut must be used on reassembly.
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. On early models, relieve
the staking before loosening the nut (see
illustration). Later models use self-locking
14Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
13Rear coil spring (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
11•10Suspension and steering
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolts - Estate models
14.1a Alternative types of rear hub carrier-
to-lower arm securing bolts12.7 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
(arrowed) - Estate models
12.2b . . . for access to the rear shock
absorber upper mounting
14.1b On early models relieve the staking
(arrowed) on the rear hub nut

nuts, and it is important to note that where
this type of nut is fitted, the left-hand nut has
a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the side
concerned, chock the front wheels, and jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the rear roadwheel.
3Remove the brake drum retaining spire
washer(s) from the wheel stud(s) and remove
the brake drum. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before removing the brake drum,
otherwise the drum will be held in place by the
clamping action of the brake shoes.
4Remove the two nylon fasteners, and
remove the plastic shield from the rear of the
brake backplate (see illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut.
6Using a suitable puller, pull the drive flange
from the end of the driveshaft (see
illustration).
7Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the hub carrier and brake backplate
to the lower arm (see illustration). Remove
the hub carrier, whilst supporting the
driveshaft. Support the driveshaft by placing
axle stands underneath it, or by securing with
string to the underbody. Note that the
driveshaft joints should not be allowed to
deflect through an angle exceeding 13º.
8Refit the brake backplate with the four
securing bolts to avoid straining the brake
pipe.
9With the hub carrier removed, the bearings
can be renewed as follows (see illustration).
10Prise the inner and outer oil seals from the
hub carrier using a suitable screwdriver, and
withdraw the taper roller bearings.
11Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.12Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
13Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
14Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub carrier.
15Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note than on
early models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this type of seal should be replaced with
the later type which has a metal casing. The
oil seal should be renewed regardless of type,
and a new oil seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel
bearings.
16Repeat the procedure shown in
paragraphs 14 and 15 for the outer bearing
and oil seal.17Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then remove
the securing bolts from the brake backplate,
and using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the driveshaft.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
19Refit the hub carrier/brake
backplate-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
20Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel. If a staked type nut is
used, lock the nut by staking its outer ring into
the groove in the driveshaft.
With rear disc brakes
Note: See note.at the beginning of this Section
21Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
Suspension and steering 11•11
11
14.6 Pull the drive flange from the end of
the driveshaft
14.9 Rear hub carrier components - Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearingC Hub carrier
D Inner bearingE Inner oil seal14.7 Rear hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm securing
bolts
14.4 Remove the nylon fasteners (arrowed)
to free the plastic shield from the brake
backplate

22Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, and
jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel and
release the handbrake.
23Unbolt the brake caliper carrier bracket
and support the caliper on an axle stand,
taking care not to strain the flexible hose.
24Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the disc.
25Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller, pull off the drive flange.
26Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
27With the hub carrier removed, the
bearings can be renewed as described in
paragraphs 10 to 16 of this Section.
28Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then using a
soft-faced mallet, drive the drive flange/hub
carrier assembly onto the end of the stub axle.
Do not forget to fit the splash shield.
29Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
30Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
31When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
32Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel.
P100 models
Note: A new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
33Remove the relevant driveshaft.
34Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and an extension
bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the nut is
extremely tight.
35Pull off the hub, and remove the O-ring
and spacer sleeve from the recess in the hub
(see illustration).
36Prise the oil seal from the rear of the hub
using a screwdriver.
37Using a block of wood, or a suitable metal
tube inserted from the rear of the hub, tap out
the ball-bearing.
38Clean the hub with paraffin, wipe dry and
examine for damage and wear.
39Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
resting on the bearing outer race only, tap the
new bearing into the hub. Ensure that the
bearing is correctly seated.
40Carefully fit a new oil seal to the rear of the
hub, using a suitable metal tube.41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Fit a new rear hub nut, and stake in
position after tightening to the specified
torque.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the relevant front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.
3Using a length of wood, lever the
suspension crossmember downwards a few
inches from the underbody, and insert the
wood as a wedge.
4Using a tool similar to the Ford special tool
shown (see illustration), or a long bolt with
nut, washers and a suitable metal tube, pull
the mounting rubber from the crossmember.
5Lubricate the new mounting rubber with
soapy water, and use the tool described in the
previous paragraph to press the rubber into
the crossmember.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).Note: From May 1986, revised rear
suspension/final drive unit rear mounting bolts
have been used in production. Whenever the
earlier type of bolts are removed, they should
be discarded and the later type fitted. The
earlier bolts are coloured blue, and the later
type bolts are coloured gold.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
3Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the mounting to the underbody. Note
the location and number of any shims which
may be fitted.
4Lower the final drive unit sufficiently to
enable the mounting to be unbolted from the
final drive unit rear cover (see illustration).
16Rear suspension/final drive
unit rear mounting (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal
15Rear suspension front
mounting (Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models) - renewal
11•12Suspension and steering
15.4 Ford special tool 15-014 for removing
rear suspension front mounting rubber
14.35 Rear hub components - P100 models
A Oil seal
B Hub
C Ball-bearingD Hub nut
E Spacer sleeve
F O-ring
16.4 Rear suspension/final drive unit rear
mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts

5Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
Section. Refit any shims in their original noted
positions, and tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
Removal
1Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts, chock the
front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle
and support on axle stands placed under the
side members.
2Prise off the straps which connect the
anti-roll bar to the suspension lower arms
(see illustration).
3Unbolt the two securing brackets from the
underbody, and remove the anti-roll bar (see
illustration).
4The connecting straps can be prised from
the ends of the anti-roll bar, and the
underbody mounting brackets and rubbers,
which are of a split design, can be pulled off.
5When fitting new mounting components,
lubricate the rubber parts with soapy water to
ease assembly.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing bolts
to the specified torque.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.2Support the rear axle with a jack, using an
interposed block of wood to spread the load.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Remove the securing circlip and the pivot
pin, and detach the handbrake equaliser from
the linkage on the underbody.
5Remove the handbrake cables from the
clips on the underbody, and from the brackets
on the crossmember. To remove the cables
from the crossmember, remove the U-shaped
retaining clips. Note that the cable adjuster is
secured to the right-hand crossmember
bracket. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before attempting to disconnect any
part of the mechanism.
6Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose on the right-hand side of the chassis
crossmember. Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the crossmember by
removing the U-shaped retaining clip (see
illustration).
7Remove the spring clip and clevis pin and
disconnect the spring from the brake load
apportioning valve lever on the right-hand
side of the underbody (see illustration).
8Detach the exhaust system from the two
rear mountings.
9Unbolt the shock absorbers from the
chassis crossmember.
10Unbolt the leaf springs from the front
brackets on the underbody, (Section 19).
11Lower the rear axle.
12Loosen the spring shackle-to-underbody
bolts, then unbolt the leaf springs from the
spring shackles, and remove the rear
suspension and axle assembly from under thevehicle, guiding the handbrake cables over
the exhaust system.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
14Do not fully tighten the leaf spring
mounting bolts or the spring
shackle-to-underbody bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is resting on the roadwheels.
15Renew all self-locking nuts and spring
washers.
16On completion, check the brake load
apportioning valve adjustment and the
handbrake adjustment. Bleed the rear brake
circuit and check the axle oil level.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.
2Support the relevant side of the rear axle
with a jack, using an interposed block of
wood under the axle tube to spread the load.
3Unscrew the nuts, and remove the two
U-bolts on each side of the vehicle which
secure the axle to the leaf springs (see
illustration). Note that there is no need to
19Rear suspension leaf spring
(P100 models) - removal and
refitting
18Rear suspension and axle
assembly (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
17Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•13
11
17.3 Anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing
bracket
18.7 Remove the split pin (arrowed) from
the brake load apportioning valve lever
18.6 Brake pipe-to-hose connection on
right-hand side of chassis crossmember -
P100 models
1 Brake pipe
2 U-shaped clip3 Brake hose
17.2 Anti-roll bar-to-lower arm connecting
strap
19.3 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) from the
rear axle-to-leaf spring U-bolts

disconnect the shock absorber from the
U-bolt counterplate.
4Unbolt the leaf spring from the front bracket
on the underbody (see illustration).
5Loosen the spring shackle-to-underbody
bolt, then unbolt the leaf spring from the
spring shackle and remove the spring (see
illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Do not fully tighten the leaf spring mounting
bolts or the spring shackle-to-underbody bolt
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
roadwheels.
8Renew all self-locking nuts and spring
washers.
9Align the axle on the leaf spring so that the
locating pin on the spring engages with the
corresponding hole in the axle. Similarly
ensure that the U-bolt counterplate engages
with the locating pin on the leaf spring.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.2Support the relevant side of the rear axle
with a jack, using an interposed block of
wood under the axle tube to spread the load.
3Unscrew and remove the spring
shackle-to-underbody bolt and the leaf
spring-to-spring shackle bolt, and remove the
shackle components.
4Examine the components for wear and
damage and renew as necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew
all self-locking nuts and spring washers, and
do not fully tighten the bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
1Proceed as described in Section 19,
paragraphs 1 to 3 inclusive.
2Unbolt the relevant end of the leaf spring,
and lower it to gain access to the bush. Note
that if the shackle end of the spring is
unbolted, the shackle-to-underbody bolt
should be loosened in order to aid refitting.
3The bush can be removed using a long bolt
with nut, washers and a suitable metal tube.
4Lubricate the new bush with soapy water
and fit using the bolt, nut, washers and tube.
5Proceed as described in Section 19,
paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive.
Removal
1Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
2Prise the trim insert from the centre of the
steering wheel, and where applicable,
disconnect the horn electrical lead(s) (see
illustration).
3Insert the ignition key and check that the
steering lock is disengaged.
4Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw the
steering wheel from the hexagon shaped inner
column (see illustration). If the wheel is tight
on the inner column, sit in the driver’s seat
and tap the wheel from behind with the palms
of the hands (but screw the nut back on two
or three turns for safety).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
that the lug on the direction indicator cam is
aligned with the cut-out in the steering wheel,
and make sure that the direction indicator
switch is in the neutral position. Tighten the
retaining nut to the specified torque.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60º.
For larger errors, remove the steering wheel
and make a rough correction by repositioning
the wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired
straight-ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands.
4Slacken both tie-rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each
tie-rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined
(see illustration).
23Steering wheel - centralising
22Steering wheel - removal and
refitting
21Rear suspension leaf spring
bush (P100 models) - renewal
20Rear suspension leaf spring
shackle (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
11•14Suspension and steering
19.5 Leaf spring shackle
22.4 Removing the steering wheel retaining
nut22.2 Prise off the steering wheel trim insert
and disconnect the horn electrical lead
19.4 Leaf spring front bracket
23.5 Make alignment marks (arrowed)
between each tie-rod end and its rod when
centralising the steering wheel

6Align the washers, sliders and locking
plates, ensuring that the handle locking plate
is fitted so that the cut-out and Ford logo are
positioned as shown (see illustration).
7Coat the through-bolt threads with a
suitable thread-locking compound, then refit
the through-bolt and the adjuster handle,
ensuring that all components are engaged.
8Position the handle in the locked position,
and secure the through-bolt with a new
locknut and washer.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands.
2Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
shaft to the inner column, swivel the clamp
plate to one side, and disconnect the
intermediate shaft.
3Unscrew and remove the clamp bolt
securing the flexible coupling to the steering
gear (see illustration).
4Mark the coupling in relation to the pinion,
then pull off the intermediate shaft and
remove it from the vehicle. The pinion has a
master spline, but making alignment marks
will aid refitting (see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but align
the marks on the coupling and pinion, and
tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position. Ensure that the steering lock is
engaged and remove the ignition key.
2Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
roadwheel nuts, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands.
3Remove the roadwheels. On P100 models,
mark the position of the roadwheels in relation
to the wheel studs.
4Unscrew and remove the clamp bolts
securing the intermediate shaft flexible
coupling to the steering gear.
5If the original steering gear is to be refitted,
mark the coupling in relation to the pinion. The
pinion has a master spline, but making
alignment marks will aid refitting.
6Slacken the tie-rod end locknuts (see
illustration).
7Remove the split pins and unscrew the
castellated nuts from the tie-rod end-to-hub
carrier balljoints.
8Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the tie-rod ends from the hub carriers.9Unscrew the two steering gear-to-front
suspension crossmember securing bolts, and
withdraw the steering gear from under the
vehicle.
10If required, remove the tie-rod ends.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
12If new steering gear is being fitted, the
central pinion position can be ascertained by
halving the number of turns required to move
the rack from lock to lock.
13Where applicable, align the marks made
on the coupling and pinion.
14When tightening the steering gear-to-front
suspension crossmember bolts, the following
procedure should be used. Tighten the bolts
to the specified “clamping” torque, then
loosen the bolts fully. Re-tighten to the
specified “snug” torque and then further
tighten the bolts through the specified angle.
15Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
and use new split pins on the balljoint
castellated nuts.
16On P100 models, align the previously
made marks on the roadwheels and wheel
studs.
17On completion, check the front wheel
alignment.
Note: New power steering fluid hose O-rings
will be required when refitting.
Removal
1The procedure is as described for manual
steering gear with the following differences
(see illustration).
2Before removing the steering gear from the
suspension crossmember, place a suitable
container beneath the steering gear. Unscrew
the single bolt securing the power steering
fluid hoses to the pinion housing. Unscrew the
hose unions and drain the power steering
fluid. Plug the ends of the hoses and the
steering gear apertures, or cover them with
masking tape to prevent dirt ingress.
28Power steering gear
- removal and refitting
27Manual steering gear -
removaland refitting
26Steering intermediate shaft
and flexible coupling -
removal and refitting
11•16Suspension and steering
25.6 Cut-out and Ford logo (A) must be
positioned as shown when reassembling
adjustable steering column
26.4 Master spline location on the steering
gear pinion and intermediate shaft
coupling26.3 Intermediate shaft-to-steering gear
flexible coupling
25.2 Adjustable steering column assembly
A Adjuster handle
B Locking plates
C Through-bolt
D Sliders
E Spring