GMC SAVANA 1997 Owners Manual

Temperature -- A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material
of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades
B and A represent higher levels of performance on the
laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire
is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel
alignment and wheel balancing are not
needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or
the other, the alignment
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the
wheel leaks air, replace
it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
GM dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind
of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way
as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
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L dT’^Y:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel
bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be
dangerous.
It could affect the braking and
handling
of your vehicle, make your tires lose
air and make you lose control. You could have a
collision in which you or others could be injured.
Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and
wheel nuts for replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire
chain clearance to the body and chassis.
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced
on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160,l 600 and
10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque”
in the Index.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for
more information.
Used Replacement WP-?ls
A CAUTIP’
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or
how far it’s been driven.
It could fail suddenly
and cause an accident.
If you have to replace a
wheel, use
a new GM original equipment wheel.
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Tire Chains
I
NOTICE:
Use tire chains only where legal and only when
you must. Use chains that are the proper size
for your tires. Install them on the tires of the
rear axle.
Tighten them
as tightly as possible with the ends
securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions.
If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them.
If the contact continues, slow down until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
’ chains on will damage your vehicle.
Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some
are toxic. Others can burst into flame
if you strike a
match or get them on a hot part of
the vehicle. Some are
dangerous if
you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from
a container to clean your
vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings
and instructions. And always open your doors
or
windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
Gasoline
0 Benzene
0 Naphtha
0 Carbon Tetrachloride
Acetone
Paint Thinner
0 Turpentine
0 Lacquer Thinner
Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
-- some more than
others
-- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
Alcohol
0 Laundry Soap
Bleach
Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose
dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with
a clean, damp cloth.
Your GM dealer has two cleaners, a solvent-type spot
lifter and
a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean
normal spots and stains very well.
Do not use them on
vinyl or leather.
Here
are some cleaning tips:
1. Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
2. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.
3. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area
often.
A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
4. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area
5. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire
only. If you
use them, don’t saturate the stained area.
area immediately or it will set.
Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.
Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask
surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label.
Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t
saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge
to remove the suds.
Rinse the section with
a clean, wet sponge.
Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel
or cloth.
Dry
it immediately with a blow dryer.
Wipe with a clean cloth.
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Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric
First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all.
Some spots and stains will clean off better with just
water and mild soap.
If you need to use a solvent:
1. Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with
a clean, dull knife or scraper.
2. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths
(preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start
at the
outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center.
3. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth.
4. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately
dry the area with
a blow dryer to help prevent a
cleaning ring.
Fabric Protection
Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been
treated with Scotchgard Fabric Protector, a
3M
product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water,
which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this
protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and
carpet often to keep it looking new.
Further information on cleaning is available by calling
1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6167).
Special Cleaning Problems
Greasy or Oily Stains
Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe
polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic
creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can
be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape
off excess stain.
2. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier.
Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left
on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed as
soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will
dissolve them and may cause them to spread.
Non-Greasy Stains
Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit
juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can
be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain,
then sponge the
soiled area
with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions
described earlier.
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3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,
treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution:
1
teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml)
of lukewarm water.
4. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.
Combination Stains
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili
sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry.
3. If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.
Cleaning Vinyl
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You
may have to do it more than once.
Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you
don’t get them
off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a
vinyVleather cleaner.
See your dealer for this product.
Cleaning Leather I
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or I
saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the
leather dry naturally.
Do not use heat to dry.
For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your
dealer for this product.
cleaners, furniture polish
or shoe polish on leather.
Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive
Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned
immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the
finish,
it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or
waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield
and even make it difficult to see through the windshield
under certain conditions.
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Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it
may severely weaken them. In a crash, they
might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and
lukewarm water.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM
Part
No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner
will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films
on
interior glass.
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may
cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear
window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear
window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the
defogger grid.
Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield
washer, or
if the wiper blade chatters when running,
wax, sap or other material may be on the blade
or windshield.
Clean the outside
of the windshield with GM Glass
Cleaner, Bon Ami@ Powder (non-scratching glass
cleaning powder), GM Part
No. 105001 1. The
windshield is clean if beads do not
form when you
rinse
it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades
and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping
vigorously with a cloth soaked
in full-strength windshield
washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean
them as necessary;
replace worn blades.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth
at least every six
months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent
application may be required. (See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)
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Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it
clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of
the sun.
Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use
liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps.
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or
that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents
should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry
on
the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a
soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid
surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure vehicle washes may cause water to enter
your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior LampsLenses
Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a liquid
hand, dish or vehicle washing (mild detergent) soap to
clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions
under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint
finish.
You can get GM-approved cleaning products
from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials”
in the Index.)
Your
GM manufactured vehicle may have a
“basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives
more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always
use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made
for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.
KNOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on ~
a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the
finish or leave swirl marks. 1
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other
salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird
droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can
damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain
on painted
surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible.
If
necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked
safe
for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
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Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather
and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period
of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking
new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered
whenever possible.
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep
their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually
needed. However, you may use chrome polish on
chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.
Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid
damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome
polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum.
A
coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended
for all bright metal parts.
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
(If Equipped)
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with
mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After
rinsing thoroughly, dry
with a soft clean towel. A wax
may then be applied.
The surface
of these wheels is similar to the painted
surface
of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps,
chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning
brushes on them because
you could
damage the surface.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash
that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These
brushes
can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Cleaning Tires
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
I NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to
wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted
surfaces on the body or wheels
of the vehicle.
Petroleum-based products may damage the
paint finish.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal
repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop
applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired
or
replaced to restore corrosion protection.
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Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish
should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode
quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up
materials available from your dealer or other service
outlets. Larger areas of finish damage
can be corrected
in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control
can collect on the underbody.
If these are not removed,
accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody
parts such
as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust
system even though they have corrosion protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud
and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas
of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do
this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a
chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and
attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage
can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped
discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched
into the paint surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this,
GM will repair,
at no charge to the owner, the surfaces
of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition
within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of
purchase, whichever occurs first.
This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by
General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment
not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.
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