tow GMC SIERRA 1994 Owner's Guide

Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains,
electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your
vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help
you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to
go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the
left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible?
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal
flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows
on your instrument panel will
flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally
to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or
steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes
so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around
45 mph
(70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
When towing at high altitude with steep uphill grades,you need to consider
the following information. The lower atmospheric pressure at high altitude
allows your vehicles engine coolant to boil at a lower temperature than at
normal altitudes.
If you immediately turn your engine off after towing at high altitude with
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine
overheating.
To avoid this, let your vehicle operate in a parked position with
the transmission in
“N” (Neutral) for a few minutes before you turn off the
engine. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in
the Index.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
“D” (or, as you need
to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
“D” when
towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life
of your
transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and
you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not to use fifth gear. Just drive in fourth gear (or, as you need to, a lower
gear).
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start
to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how
to do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P’ (Park) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb
the load.
Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift to
“P7, (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission.
If
you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not in
“N7 (Neutral).
Release
the regular brakes.
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A CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is
not fully in “P” (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. Your
vehicle can roll.
If’ you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle
won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the
steps that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in “N”
(Neutral), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever
is in
“P” (Park). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
- not in “N” (Neutral).
If you are parking on a hill, or if you’re pulling a trailer, also see
“Parking
On Hills” in the Index.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic
fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil,
axle lubricant, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these
is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Light Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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Problems on the Road
Section
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road .
Hazard Warning Flasher ..................................... 5-2
Other Warning Devices ...................................... 5-3
Jumpstarting .............................................. 5-3
TowingYourVehicle ........................................ 5-7
Engine Overheating ........................................ 5-11
Engine Fan Noise .......................................... 5-25
If a Tire Goes Flat ......................................... 5-25
Changing
a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-26
Jackstorage
........................................... 5-29
SpareTire
............................................. 5-29
If You’re Stuck:
In Sand. Mud. Ice or Snow ..................... 5-40
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9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,
but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection
is just as
good there, but the chance
of sparks getting back to the battery is much
less.
10. :Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for
awhile.
1 1. ‘Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
.Remove Cables in this Order:
2 3 1. Heavy Metal
Engine Part
2. Good Battery
(-)
3. Good Battery (+)
4. Dead Battery (+)
12. :Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting.
‘Take care that
they don’t touch each other or any other metal.
Towing Your Vehicle
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your
vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow
it
without damage.
If your vehicle has been changed since
it was factory-new, by adding such
things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things
coulcl be damaged during towing.
Befolre you do anything,
turn on the hazard warning flashers.
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When you call, tell the towing service:
That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel
drive option.
The make, model, and year of your vehicle.
Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer
case,
if you have one.
If there was an accident, what was damaged.
1
When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering
wheel should be clamped
in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the vehicle’s steering
column lock for this. The transmission and transfer case,
if you have one,
should be in Neutral and
the parking brake released.
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Towing From the Front
If you have a two-wheel drive vehicle, don’t have your vehicle towed on
the rear wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear
wheels, don’t go more than
35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles
(80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be
exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported
on a dolly.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option and
the transfer case is
engaged, a dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the
front
.
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Towing From the Rear
r
NOTICE:
Towing pickup models from the rear while loaded with heavy
cargo may cause the frame side rails to flex sufficiently to allow
the pickup box to contact the cab and could cause damage to the
cab and/or box.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for
a minute
or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral).
If
you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back
on,
you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator
until the engine speed is
about twice
as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes.
Now see if the warning stops.
But then,
if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND
GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You
may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
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..I . ... . ;. ..
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions
the fan is spinning slower and clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as
the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in
fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and
the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear
this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as
the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s UfluSual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak
out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,’’ here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
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