lights JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G User Guide

model but the designations are the same.
Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of
Chapter 12.
f) Start the engine and check the alternator
for abnormal noises (a shrieking or
squealing sound indicates a bad bushing).
g) Check the specific gravity of the battery
electrolyte. If it’s low, charge the battery
(doesn’t apply to maintenance free
batteries).
h) Make sure that the battery is fully charged
(one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator).
i) Disconnect the battery cables (negative
first, then positive). Caution:If the stereo
in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have the
correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery. Inspect the
battery posts and the cable clamps for
corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if
necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the
positive cable, then the negative cable.
2Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be
approximately 12 volts (see illustration).
3Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. It should now be approximately
13.5 to 15.1 volts.
4Turn on the headlights. The voltage should
drop and then come back up, if the charging
system is working properly.
5If the voltage reading is greater than the
specified charging voltage, renew the
alternator.
6If you have an ammeter, connect it up to the
charging system according to its maker’s
instructions. If you don’t have a professional-
type ammeter, you can also use an inductive-
type current indicator. This device is
inexpensive, readily available at car accessory
outlets and accurate enough to perform simple
amperage checks like the following test.7With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check
the reading on the ammeter with all
accessories and lights off (no load), then again
with the high-beam headlights on and the
heater blower switch turned to the HI position
(full load). Compare your readings to the
standard amperage listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
8If the ammeter reading is less than standard
amperage, repair or renew the alternator.
9If the alternator is working but the charging
system still does function properly, check the
operation of the load dump module (see
illustration). Have this component checked at
a dealer service department.
12 Alternator-
removal and refitting
2
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.2Detach the electrical connectors from the
alternator.
3Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot
bolts (see illustration) and detach the
drivebelt.
4Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts
(see illustration)from the alternator
adjustment bracket.
5If you are replacing the alternator, take the
old alternator with you when purchasing a
replacement unit. Make sure that the
new/rebuilt unit is identical to the old
alternator. Look at the terminals - they should
be the same in number, size and locations as
the terminals on the old alternator. Finally,
look at the identification markings - they will
be stamped in the housing or printed on a tag
or plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure
that these numbers are the same on both
alternators.
6Many new/rebuilt alternators do not have
a pulley installed, so you may have to switch
the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt
one. When buying an alternator, find out the
policy regarding refitting of pulleys - some
shops will perform this service free of charge.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5•6 Engine electrical systems
12.3 Loosen the lock bolt and back-off
the adjustment bolt (arrowed) to remove
the drivebelt12.4 Remove the pivot bolt and nut
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.2 Connect the probes of a voltmeter to the battery terminals
and observe battery voltage with the engine OFF
and then with the engine running
11.9 The load dump module is located on the bulkhead
next to the MAF sensor

at a time, so you can use the other side as a
reference during reassembly.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two nuts,
turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.7c)and
expand the shoes until the disc locks, then
back off the adjuster until you can spin the
disc without the shoes dragging.
8Adjust the handbrake cable (Section 10).
9Remove the axle stands and lower the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 1 Specifications).
13 Brake light switch-
check and renewal
1
1The brake light switch activates the brake
lights when the brake pedal is depressed. It‘s
located at the top of the brake pedal, inside
the pedal box.
2If the brake lights don’t come on when the
brake pedal is depressed, check the fuses
(the fuse for the left brake light is in the left
fuse panel and the fuse for the right brake
light is in the right panel).
3If the fuses are okay, check the brake light
bulbs (see Chapter 12).
4If the fuses and bulbs are okay, either the
switch isn’t getting voltage (there’s an open-
circuit between the voltage source and the
switch), voltage isn’t reaching the brake light
Braking system 9•13
9
12.5j Place the front shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe . . .12.5k . . . and refit the hold-down spring
and washers12.5i Lubricate the six friction points
(two arrowed) on the backing plate with
high-temperature brake grease
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.5l Hook the lower return spring into its
hole in the front shoe . . .
12.5m . . . hook the other end of the
lower spring into the rear shoe . . .12.5n . . . stretch the spring over the top of
the handbrake lever box . . .
12.5o . . . place the rear shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe and refit the rear washers
and hold-down spring12.5p Hook the upper return spring into
the front shoe . . .
12.5q . . . and into the rear shoe12.5r Pull the shoes apart and refit the
adjuster mechanism

bulbs (open-circuit between the switch and
the bulbs), or the switch is defective.
5To remove the switch, reach up under the
dash and unplug the two electrical connectors
- one for the brake lights and one for the
cruise control system. Locate the two pairs of
leads coming down the pedal box and trace
them to their connectors on or near the
steering column.
6Remove the three switch-plate retaining
bolts and remove the switch assembly (see
illustrations). Inspect the switch-plate rubber
gasket for cracks or deterioration and renew it
if it’s damaged or worn.
7Place the switch assembly on a workbench
and connect an ohmmeter to the brake lightswitch terminals. With the switch plunger in its
normal, extended position (brake pedal not
applied), there should be no continuity (infinite
resistance) (see illustration); when the
plunger is depressed (brake pedal applied),
there should be continuity (zero resistance)
(see illustration). If the switch doesn’t
perform as described, renew it. If the switch
works in an opposite fashion, i.e. continuity
when the plunger is free, no continuity when
the plunger is depressed, you’ve tested the
cruise control switch! Switch the ohmmeter
leads to the other connector and recheck.
8To remove the switch from the plate,
remove the two small nuts on the back of the
plate (see illustration).9Refit the switch assembly and the switch
plate bolts but don’t tighten the bolts yet.
10Plug in the brake light and cruise control
connectors.
11The holes in the switch plate are slotted
for adjustment. While an assistant presses the
brake pedal, verify that the brake lights come
on; with the pedal released, make sure the
brake lights are off. If the lights don’t come on
when the pedal is depressed, or stay on when
the pedal is released, adjust the switch by
moving the plate until proper operation is
achieved. Tighten the switch-plate bolts.
12After tightening the switch-plate bolts,
check the switch again to make sure it
performs properly.
9•14 Braking system
13.6a To remove the brake light switch,
remove the three mounting plate screws
(arrowed) . . .13.6b . . . and carefully pry the switch plate
away from the pedal box - be careful not to
damage the gasket13.7a To check the brake light switch,
connect an ohmmeter to the switch
terminals; with the switch plunger
released, there should be no continuity
(infinite resistance)
13.7b With the switch plunger depressed,
there should be continuity
(zero resistance)13.8 If you’re replacing the switch, remove
these two nuts (arrowed) and transfer the
retaining plate to the new switch
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3Remove two bumper retaining bolts located
on the bottom side of the bumper (see
illustration). Pull the bumper assembly out
and away from the vehicle to remove it.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal.
15 Front wing-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the front wheel nuts. Raise the
vehicle, support it securely on axle stands and
remove the front wheel.
2Remove the front bumper assembly (see
Section 14).
3Remove the front spoiler (see Section 13).4Detach the inner wing splash shield (see
illustration).
5On 1988 and 1989 models, remove the
coolant overflow reservoir located behind the
splash shield (see Chapter 3).
6On models with round headlights, remove
the headlight bezel. On models with
composite headlights (1992 Vanden Plas, all
1993 and later models), remove the headlight
(see Chapter 12).
7Remove the wing mounting bolts and nuts
(see illustrations).
8Detach the wing. It’s a good idea to have an
assistant support the wing while it’s being
moved away from the vehicle to prevent
damage to the surrounding body panels.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
16 Boot lid- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The boot lid is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Open the boot lid and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or wire harness
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
mounting bolts with a marking pen.
4While an assistant supports the boot lid,
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off(see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
When refitting the boot lid, align the lid-to-
hinge bolts with the marks made during
removal.
Adjustment
6Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment
of the boot lid is done by moving the bonnet in
relation to the hinge plate after loosening the
bolts or nuts.
7Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate
as described earlier in this section so you can
judge the amount of movement.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
14.3 Remove the two retaining bolts from
the bottom of the bumper, then remove the
bumper from the vehicle15.4 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing
the inner wing splash shield15.7a Detach the wing retaining bolts
(arrowed) at the front of the wing
15.7c Working in the wheel opening,
remove the wing-to-rocker panel bolt
(arrowed)
15.7d Remove the wing-to-door pillar bolt
(arrow; lower bolt not visible)15.7e Detach the bolts along the
top of the wing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.7b Remove the wing-to-radiator
support bolt (arrowed)
16.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the boot lid, remove the retaining bolts and
lift off the boot lid

selector towards the rear of the vehicle. Pull
up on the rear half of the radio trim bezel while
gently detaching the clips securing the front,
then remove the bezel from the vehicle.
6Remove the radio and heater control
assembly (see Chapter 12).
7Remove the dashboard centre trim panel
(see Section 26), then remove the centre air
conditioning duct from the vehicle (see
illustration).
8Remove the retaining screws located in the
air conditioning duct opening (see illustration).
9Remove the plastic screws securing the
lower front section of the console (see
illustration).
10Unplug any electrical connectors that will
interfere with the removal of the console.
11Pull the console towards the rear of the
vehicle, then lift the console up over the shift
lever and remove it from the vehicle.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Overhead console
13Remove the plastic screw securing the
overhead console, then carefully pull the
console out of the headliner (see illustration).
14Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the lights.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
25 Instrument cluster housing-
removal and refitting
2
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental deploy-
ment of the airbag, which could
cause personal injury or damage to the
airbag system, DO NOT work in the vicinity
of the steering column or instrument panel.
The manufacturer recommends that, on
airbag equipped models, the following
procedure should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshop
because of the special tools and techniques
required to disable the airbag system.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable. Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Remove the drivers side knee bolster (see
Section 26).
3Place the steering wheel in the full rearward
position. If the vehicle is equipped with a tilt
column, place the steering wheel in the lowest
position.
4Remove the instrument cluster housing
screws (see illustration).
5Pull the instrument cluster housing outward
to access the electrical connections on the
backside (see illustration).
6Disconnect all electrical connections from
the backside of the cluster housing and
remove the housing from the vehicle.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•12 Bodywork and fittings
24.3b Pull the ash tray towards the rear of
the vehicle to remove it - don’t pull it
straight up24.4 Working through the ash tray opening,
remove the radio trim bezel wingnuts
(arrowed) located under the trim bezel24.7 After removing the centre trim panel,
detach the air conditioning duct
24.8 Remove the retaining screws in the
air conditioning duct opening24.9 Remove the plastic screws (arrowed)
from each side of the console24.13 Remove the plastic screw, then pull
the overhead console down and unplug
the electrical connectors
3261 Jaguar XJ6
25.4 Working in the knee bolster opening,
remove two retaining screws from each
end of the instrument cluster housing25.5 Pull outward on the instrument
cluster housing and unplug the electrical
connectors from the backside

personal injury or damage to the airbag
system, DO NOT work in the vicinity of the
steering column or instrument panel. The
manufacturer recommends that, on airbag
equipped models, the following procedure
should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshop
because of the special tools and techniques
required to disable the airbag system.
1Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10)
2Remove the knob from the rheostat
(dimmer) for the instrument panel lights (see
illustration).
3Remove the lower steering column cover
screws (see illustration), then detach the
lower cover.
4Working through the lower cover opening,
remove the four screws securing the upper
half of the cover, then pull the cover forward
and out to remove it (see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
28 Cowl cover-
removal and refitting
2
1Remove the windscreen wiper arms (see
Chapter 12).2Remove the retaining screws located along
the top of the cowl cover (see illustration).
3Lift the cowl cover up slightly, then detach
the electrical connectors and the spray nozzle
hoses from the backside of the cowl cover.
4Detach the cowl cover from the vehicle.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
29 Seats- removal and refitting
2
Front seat
1Position the seat all the way forward or all
the way to the rear to access the front seat
retaining bolts.
2Detach any bolt trim covers and remove the
retaining bolts (see illustration).
3Tilt the seat upward to access the
underneath, then unplug any electrical
connectors and lift the seat from the vehicle.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear seat
5Remove retaining screws at the lower edge
of the seat cushion (see illustration). Then lift
up on the front edge and remove the cushion
from the vehicle.
6Detach the retaining bolts at the lower edge
of the seat back.
7Lift up on the lower edge of the seat back to
release the clips securing the top. Then
remove it from the vehicle.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•14 Bodywork and fittings
27.4 Remove the four screws securing the
upper half of the steering column cover
28.2 Remove the screws (arrowed)
located along the top of the cowl cover29.2 Use a Torx bit to remove the front
seat retaining bolts (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 27.2 Pull off the knob from the instrument panel light rheostat
27.3 Remove the lower steering column cover screws
29.5 Detach the screws (arrowed) along
the lower edge of the seat cove

3261 Jaguar XJ6
12
Chapter 12
Body electrical system
1 General information
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid-type battery which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor will be found in
Chapter 5.
It should be noted that when portions of the
electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the negative
battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts
and/or fires.
2 Electrical fault finding-
general information
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links, in-line fuses or
circuit breakers related to that component
and the wiring and electrical connectors that
link the component to both the battery andthe chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical
circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included
at the end of this Chapter.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time,
chances are the problem is in a fuse or earth
connection, because several circuits are often
routed through the same fuse and earth
connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the
condition of all fuses, wires and connections
in a problem circuit before diagnosing it.
If testing instruments are going to be
utilised, use the diagrams to plan ahead of
time where you will make the necessary
connections in order to accurately pinpoint
the trouble spot.
The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, which includes a
bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a
jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
incorporated, which can be used to bypasselectrical components. Before attempting to
locate a problem with test instruments,
use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to
make the connections.
Voltage checks
Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a electrical
connector in the circuit being tested,
preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the
bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present,
which means that the part of the circuit
between the electrical connector and the
battery is problem free. Continue checking the
rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When
you reach a point at which no voltage is
present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time the problem can be traced to a loose
connection. Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is in the Accessory or Run position.
Finding a short
One method of finding shorts in a circuit is
to remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring
harness from side to side while watching the
test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short Airbag system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Circuit breakers - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Direction indicators/hazard flashers - general information . . . . . . . . 7
Electric aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electric side view mirrors - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Electric sunroof - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Electric window system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel, oil and temperature gauges - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing (1992 to 1994 models) - removal and refitting . . . 19Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlights - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Horn - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Inertia switch - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
In-line fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio and speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Relays - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
12•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

wash system, radio memory and the ABS
main feed and pump circuits.
In-line fuses are located through out the
vehicle depending on the year, make and
model. Consult the wiring diagrams at the end
of this Chapter for further information.
In-line fuses also have a blade terminal
design, which allow fingertip removal and
renewal. If an electrical component fails,
always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is
easily identified through the clear plastic
body. Inspect the element for evidence of
damage (see illustration 3.3).
Be sure to renew blown fuses with the
correct type. Fuses are usually colour-coded
to indicate their rating. Fuses of different
ratings are physically interchangeable, but
only fuses of the proper rating should be
used. Replacing a fuse with one of a different
value than specified is not recommended.
Each electrical circuit needs a specific
amount of protection. The amperage value of
each fuse is moulded into the fuse body.If the renewal fuse immediately fails, don’t
renew it again until the cause of the problem
is isolated and corrected. Don’t substitute
anything else for the fuse. In most cases, this
will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a
broken or deteriorated wire.
5 Circuit breakers-
general information
Circuit breakers generally protect
components such as electric windows, central
locking and headlights. On some models the
circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so
an electrical overload in the circuit will cause it
to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the
circuit doesn’t come back on, check it
immediately. Once the condition is corrected,
the circuit breaker will resume its normal
function. Some circuit breakers have a button
on top and must be reset manually.To test a circuit breaker, use an ohmmeter
to check continuity between the terminals. A
reading of zero to 1.0 ohms indicates a good
circuit breaker. An open circuit reading on the
meter indicates a bad circuit breaker.
6 Relays- general information
and testing
2
General information
Several electrical accessories in the vehicle,
such as the fuel injection system, electric
windows, central locking, etc, use relays to
transmit the electrical signal to the component.
Relays use a low-current circuit (the control
circuit) to open and close a high-current circuit
(the power circuit). If the relay is defective, that
component will not operate properly. The
relays are mounted throughout the vehicle (see
illustrations). If a faulty relay is suspected, it
Body electrical system 12•3
12
3261 Jaguar XJ6 1988 to 1989 relay location details

6If the voltage is 6 volts, the element is okay
(there is no break). If the voltage is 12 volts,
the element is broken between the centre
of the element and the positive end. If the
voltage is 0 volts the element is broken
between the centre of the element and earth.
7To find the break, place the voltmeter
positive lead against the defogger positive
terminal. Place the voltmeter negative lead
with the foil strip against the heating element
at the positive terminal end and slide it toward
the negative terminal end. The point at which
the voltmeter deflects from zero to several
volts is the point at which the heating element
is broken (see illustration).
Repair
8Repair the break in the element using a
repair kit specifically recommended for this
purpose.
9Prior to repairing a break, turn off the system
and allow it to cool off for a few minutes.
10Lightly buff the element area with fine
steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with
rubbing alcohol.
11Use masking tape to mask off the area
being repaired.
12Thoroughly mix the epoxy, following the
instructions provided with the repair kit.
13Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the
masking tape, overlapping the undamaged
area about 3/4-inch on either end (see
illustration).
14Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before
removing the tape and using the system.
17 Headlights- renewal
1
Warning: Later models are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are underpressure and may shatter if the surface is
damaged or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye
protection and handle the bulbs carefully,
grasping only the base whenever possible.
Do not touch the surface of the bulb with
your fingers because the oil from your skin
could cause it to overheat and fail
prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
Sealed beam units
1Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11).
2Detach the headlight bezel trim cover (see
illustration).
3Remove the headlight bezel (see
illustrations).
4Remove the screws which secure the
retaining ring and withdraw the ring. Support
the light as this is done (see illustration).
Body electrical system 12•9
12
16.13 Apply masking tape to the inside of
the window at the damaged area, then
brush on the special conductive coating17.2 Remove the screws (arrowed) and
detach the headlight bezel trim cover
17.3a Remove the two retaining screws
at the top and the one in the grille opening
(arrowed)17.3b The retaining screw at the
outside lower corner can be accessed
from under the bumper
3261 Jaguar XJ6 16.5 To determine if a heating element has broken, check the
voltage at the centre of each element. If the voltage is 6-volts, the
element is unbroken; if the voltage is 12-volts, the element is
broken between the centre and the positive end. If there is no
voltage, the element is broken between the centre and earth
16.7 To find the break, place the voltmeter positive lead against
the heated window positive terminal, place the voltmeter negative
lead with the foil strip against the heating element at the positive
terminal end and slide it toward the negative terminal end -
the point at which the voltmeter reading changes abruptly is the
point at which the element is broken

5Pull the headlight out slightly and
disconnect the electrical connector from the
rear of the light, then remove the light from the
vehicle.
6To refit, position the new unit close enough
to connect the electrical connector. Make
sure that the numbers moulded into the lens
are at the top.
7Refit and tighten the retaining ring. Test the
headlight operation.
8The remainder of the refitting is the reverse
of removal.
Halogen gas-filled bulbs
9Disconnect the electrical connector from
the bulb assembly. Rotate the headlight bulb
connector 1/4-turn anti-clockwise (viewed
from the rear) (see illustration).
10Withdraw the bulb assembly from the
headlight housing.
11Without touching the glass with your bare
fingers (see the Warningat the start of the
Section), insert the new bulb assembly into
the headlight housing and rotate the bulb
socket 1/4-turn clockwise to refit it.
12Plug in the electrical connector and test
headlight operation.
18 Headlights- adjustment
5
Note:The following procedure is intended for
emergency use only, and we strongly
recommend that the headlight aim is only
checked using optical beam-setting
equipment. It is important that the headlights
are aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly
they could blind the driver of an oncoming
vehicle and cause a serious accident or
seriously reduce your ability to see the road.
The headlights should be checked for proper
aim every 12 months and any time a new
headlight is installed or front end body work is
performed.
1Adjustment should be made with the
vehicle sitting level, the petrol tank half-full
and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle.2Early models with sealed beam headlights
have four adjusting knobs protruding through
the backside of the radiator support. The
vertical (up and down) adjustment knobs are
located above the headlight and the horizontal
(left to right) adjusting knobs are located
below the headlight (see illustration).
3On later models with halogen bulbs,
adjustments are made in the same manner as
described in the previous step, except there
are only two adjusting knobs which tilt the
headlight housing to the desired angle.
4If the headlight housing has been replacedor the vehicle has suffered front-end damage,
refer to following procedure.
5This method requires a blank wall, masking
tape and a level floor.
6Position masking tape vertically on the wall
in reference to the vehicle centreline and the
centrelines of both headlights (see
illustration).
7Position a horizontal tape line in reference
to the centreline of all the headlights. Note:It
may be easier to position the tape on the wall
with the vehicle parked only a few inches
away.
12•10 Body electrical system
3261 Jaguar XJ618.2 The headlight horizontal
adjustment knob (A) is located at the
top of the headlight and the vertical
adjustment knob (B) is below the headlight
17.4 Loosen the retaining ring screws
(arrowed) a few turns - rotate the retaining
ring anti-clockwise to remove it17.9 Disconnect the electrical connector
and rotate the bulb assembly 1/4-turn
anti-clockwise
18.6 Headlight
adjustment details