tow JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G User Guide

Refitting
5Remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the engine block and sump.
Clean the mating surface with lacquer thinner
or acetone.
Caution: Do not use a sharp scraping tool.
Both the sump and the engine block are
aluminium and could be easily damaged.
6Make sure the threaded bolt holes in the
engine block and bellhousing are clean.
7Inspect the flange of the sump for any
cracks, pits or scratches that could cause an
oil leak.
8Remove the baffle plate at the rear of the
sump (see illustration). Clean the sump area
and the baffle, then refit the baffle.
9Inspect the oil pump pickup tube for
cracks, or foreign material blocking the screen
(see illustration).
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sump
flange(see illustration). Note:The sump
must be installed within 5 minutes of sealer
application.
11Carefully position the sump on the engine
block and push it toward the transmission
adapter plate as you press it against the
engine block. Loosely refit four bolts, two on
each side of the sump. Tighten the four bolts
in a criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, then loosen
each bolt 90°.
12Refit the two engine adapter-to-sump
bolts. Tighten the two bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, then
loosen each one 180°.
13Refit the remainder of the sump-to-engine
block bolts hand tight until all are installed,
then tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Lastly, tighten the
two adapter-to-sump bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Caution: Failure to follow this tightening
procedure could stress or possibly crack
the adapter plate.
14The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to add oil and refit a new oil
filter.
15Run the engine and check for oil pressure
and leaks.13 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 12).
2Unbolt the oil pickup tube and oil transfer
housing from the engine block (see
illustration). Note:Have a drain pan under the
transfer housing, as oil may drip out when the
housing is loosened from the engine block.
3Carefully pull the transfer housing and
transfer tubes to the rear to separate them
from the oil pump body.
4Bend back the locking tabs and remove thethree bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the oil pump (see illustration).
Pull the chain and sprocket from the front of
the pump. Note:There are shims between the
sprocket and the pump. Collect them while
pulling off the sprocket.
5Remove the bolts and detach the oil pump
from the engine.
6Remove all traces of sealant and old gasket
material from the oil pump body and engine
block, then clean the mating surfaces with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
7Remove the screws and separate the front
and rear pump covers from the body. Lift out
the drive and driven rotors (see illustrations).
Note:Mark the front face of each rotor before
removing them.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•15
2A
12.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
sheetmetal baffle plate - clean the sump
area of the sump with the baffle removed12.9 Lubrication system components
A Oil pump
B Transfer tubesC Transfer housing
D Oil pump pickup12.10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant around
the perimeter of the sump mounting
flange, be sure to run the bead around the
outside all bolt the holes
13.7a Remove the bolts and separate the
front and rear pump covers13.7b Remove the outer rotor (A)
and inner rotor (B)
13.2 Unbolt the oil pump pickup (A) and
the bolts (B) retaining the transfer
assembly (C) to the engine block13.4 Pry back the locking tabs and remove
the three bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the pump
3261 Jaguar XJ6

8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders. Note:Turn the crankshaft as
needed to position the piston/connecting rod
assembly to be removed close to parallel with
the cylinder bore - i.e. don’t try to drive it out
while at a large angle to the bore.
9After removal, reassemble the connecting
rod caps and bearing inserts in their
respective connecting rods and refit the cap
nuts/bolts finger tight. Leaving the old bearing
inserts in place until reassembly will help
prevent the big-end bearing surfaces from
being accidentally nicked or gouged.
10Don’t separate the pistons from the
connecting rods (see Section 18 for additional
information).
14 Crankshaft- removal
3
Note:The rear main oil seal and retainer must
be removed from the engine block before
proceeding with crankshaft removal (see Part
A of this Chapter).
1Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endplay. Mount a dial indicator to the front
of the engine with the stem in line with, and
just touching, the end of the crankshaft (see
illustration).2Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear
and zero the dial indicator. Next, pry the
crankshaft to the front as far as possible and
check the reading on the dial indicator. The
distance that it moves is the endplay. If it’s
greater than that specified in this Chapter’s
Specifications, check the crankshaft thrust
surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident, new
thrust washers should correct the endplay.
3If a dial indicator isn’t available, feeler
gauges can be used. Gently pry or push the
crankshaft all the way to the front of the
engine. Slip feeler gauges between the
crankshaft and the front face of the number 4
(thrust) main bearing to determine the
clearance (see illustration).
4Check the main bearing caps to see if
they’re marked to indicate their locations.
They should be numbered consecutively from
the front of the engine to the rear. If they
aren’t, mark them with number stamping dies
or a centre punch. Main bearing caps
generally have a cast-in arrow, which points
to the front of the engine. Loosen the main
bearing cap bolts 1/4-turn at a time each,
stating at the ends and working toward the
centre, until they can be removed by hand.
5The main bearing caps are numbered on
the right side with corresponding numbers
stamped into the sump rail on the same side
(see illustration). Gently tap the caps with asoft-face hammer, then separate them from
the engine block. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the main bearing caps.
Try not to drop the bearing inserts if they
come out with the caps. Note:The number
four main bearing is the thrust bearing and is
not numbered.
6Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. It may be a good idea to have an
assistant available, since the crankshaft is
quite heavy. With the bearing inserts in place
in the engine block and main bearing caps,
return the main bearing caps to their
respective locations on the engine block and
tighten the bolts finger tight.
15 Engine block- cleaning
2
Caution: The core plugs (also known as
freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or
impossible to retrieve if they’re driven
completely into the engine block coolant
passages.
1Using the blunt end of a punch, tap in on
the outer edge of the core plug to turn the
plug sideways in the bore. Then using pliers,
pull the core plug from the engine block (see
illustrations).
2B•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
14.5 The right side of each main bearing
cap is stamped with a number (left arrow)
that corresponds to the stamped number
on the pan rail (right arrow)15.1a A hammer and a large punch can be
used to knock the core plugs sideways in
their bores15.1b Pull the core plugs from the engine
block with pliers
3261 Jaguar XJ6 14.1 Checking crankshaft endplay with a dial indicator
14.3 Checking crankshaft endplay with a feeler gauge

the upper and lower side rails can be turned
smoothly in the ring groove.
11The number two (middle) ring is installed
next. It’s usually stamped with a mark which
must face up, toward the top of the piston.
Note:Always follow the instructions on the
ring package or box - different manufacturers
may require different approaches. Do not mix
up the top and middle rings, as they have
different cross sections.
12Use a piston ring refitting tool and make
sure the ring’s identification mark is facing the
top of the piston, then slip the ring into the
middle groove on the piston (see illustration).
Don’t expand the ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the piston.
13Refit the number one (top) ring in the
same manner. Make sure the mark is facing
up. Be careful not to confuse the number one
and number two rings.
14Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and rings.
23 Crankshaft- refitting and
main bearing oil clearance
check
3
1Crankshaft refitting is the first major step in
engine reassembly. It’s assumed at this point
that the engine block and crankshaft have
been cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned.
2Position the engine with the bottom facing
up.
3Remove the main bearing cap bolts and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order.
4If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing inserts from the engine block and the
main bearing caps. Wipe the main bearing
surfaces of the engine block and caps with a
clean, lint free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly clean!
Main bearing
oil clearance check
5Clean the back sides of the new main
bearing inserts and lay the bearing half with
the oil groove in each main bearing saddle inthe engine block. Lay the other bearing half
from each bearing set in the corresponding
main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each
bearing insert fits into the recess in the engine
block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the block
must line up with the oil holes in the bearing
insert.
Caution: Do not hammer the bearings into
place and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at this
time.
6The thrust bearings (washers) must be
installed in the number four main bearing cap
and saddle.
7Clean the faces of the bearings in the
engine block and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
8Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,
carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
9Before the crankshaft can be permanently
installed, the main bearing oil clearance must
be checked.
10Trim several pieces of the appropriate size
Plastigauge (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings) and place one
piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the journal axis (see
illustration).
11Clean the faces of the bearings in the
caps and refit the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing toward the front of the engine. Don’t
disturb the Plastigauge. Apply a light coat of
oil to the bolt threads and the undersides of
the bolt heads, then refit them. Note:Use the
old bolts for this step (save the new bolts for
final refitting).
12Tighten the main bearing cap bolts, in
three steps, to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Don’t rotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation!
13Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps or cap assembly. Keep
them in order. Don’t disturb the Plastigauge or
rotate the crankshaft. If any of the main
bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap them
gently from side-to-side with a soft-face
hammer to loosen them.14Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge on each journal to the scale printed
on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the main
bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check
the Specifications to make sure it’s correct.
15If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required - see
Section 20). Before deciding that different
inserts are needed, make sure that no dirt or
oil was between the bearing inserts and the
caps or engine block when the clearance was
measured. If the Plastigauge is noticeably
wider at one end than the other, the journal
may be tapered (see Section 19).
16Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the main bearing
journals and/or the bearing faces. Don’t nick
or scratch the bearing faces.
Final crankshaft refitting
17Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing faces in the engine
block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean
moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to
each of the bearing surfaces. Coat the thrust
washers as well.
18Lubricate the crankshaft surfaces that
contact the oil seals with moly-base grease,
engine assembly lube or clean engine oil.
19Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the engine block. Clean the faces of the
bearings in the main bearing caps, then apply
lubricant to them. Refit the main bearing caps
in their respective positions with the arrows
pointing toward the front of the engine. Note:
Be sure to refit the thrust washers (lubricated)
with the number 4 main journal.The upper
(block side) thrust washers can be rotated into
position around the crankshaft with the
crankshaft installed in the engine block, with
the thrust washer grooves facing OUT. The
lower thrust washers should be placed on the
main bearing caps with their grooves OUT.
20For the final assembly, use only new
bolts, for both the main bearings and the
2B•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
23.10 Lay the Plastigauge strips on the
main bearing journals, parallel to the
crankshaft centreline
23.14 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to the scale on the envelope to
determine the main bearing oil clearance
(always take the measurement at the
widest point of the Plastigauge). Be sure to
use the correct scale - imperial and metric
scales are included
3261 Jaguar XJ6
22.12 Refit the compression rings with a
ring expander - the mark must face up

3261 Jaguar XJ6
3
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
General
Radiator cap pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.5 to 117.5 psi
Thermostat rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 207° F
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pipe to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan assembly-to-drive hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat housing-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21 Air conditioning and heating system - check and maintenance . . . . 13
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Air conditioning receiver/drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Antifreeze/coolant - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine cooling fans - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine oil cooler - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioning blower motors -circuit check
and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater and air conditioning control assembly -
check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater core - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator, expansion tank and coolant reservoir -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hose check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Water pump and pipes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ a
pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller type water pump mounted on the
front of the block pumps coolant through the
engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder
and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug
areas and in proximity to the exhaust valve
guides.A wax-pellet type thermostat is located in
the thermostat housing at the front of the
engine. During warm up, the closed
thermostat prevents coolant from circulating
through the radiator. When the engine
reaches normal operating temperature, the
thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to
travel through the radiator, where it is cooled
before returning to the engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-
type radiator cap. This raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and the higher boiling point of
the coolant increases the cooling efficiency
of the radiator. If the system pressure exceeds
the cap pressure-relief value, the excess
pressure in the system forces the spring-
loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and
allows the coolant to escape through the
overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. Whenthe system cools, the excess coolant is
automatically drawn from the reservoir back
into the radiator. This type of cooling system is
known as a closed design because coolant
that escapes past the pressure cap is saved
and reused.
The Jaguar cooling system on 1988 and
1989 models has both a manifold tank and a
coolant recovery tank. The manifold tank is the
highest point in the cooling system and is the
location of the “radiator” cap (the cap is not on
the radiator). The recovery tank down in the
passenger’s footwell collects heated coolant
as described above. Models from 1990 to
1994 do not have a coolant recovery tank, but
have an enlarged manifold tank. In all models,
the recovery tank has a sensor in it to detect a
low coolant level, and the instrument panel has
a warning light to that effect.

pull loose, tap it with a soft-faced hammer. Do
not use a screwdriver between the cover and
the thermostat housing.
8Remove the thermostat, noting the
direction in which it was installed in the
housing, and thoroughly clean the sealing
surfaces.
9Refit a new O-ring onto the thermostat (see
illustration). Make sure it is evenly fitted all
the way around.
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the
thermostat housing. Refit the thermostat and
housing, positioning the jiggle pin at the
highest point. Note:The thermostat is usually
marked TOP on the radiator side for proper
orientation.
11Tighten the cover fasteners to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refill the cooling system, run the engine
and check for leaks and proper operation.
4 Engine cooling fans-
check and renewal
3
Mechanical fan
(1988 to 1992 models)
Warning: Keep hands, hair, tools
and clothing away from the fan
when the engine is running. Toavoid injury or damage DO NOT operate
the engine with a damaged fan. Do not
attempt to repair fan blades - renew a
damaged fan .
Check
Warning: In order to check the
fan clutch, the engine will need
to be at operating temperature,
so while going through checks
prior to Step 6 be careful that the ignition is
NOT switched on. Severe personal injury
can result!
1Symptoms of failure of the fan clutch are
continuous noisy operation, looseness,
vibration and evidence of silicone fluid leaks.
2Rock the fan back and forth by hand to
check for excessive bearing play.
3With the engine cold, turn the blades by
hand. The fan should turn freely.
4Visually inspect for substantial fluid leakage
from the fan clutch assembly, a deformed bi-
metal spring or grease leakage from the
cooling fan bearing. If any of these conditions
exist, renew the fan clutch.
5When the engine is fully warmed up, turn off
the ignition switch and disconnect the cable
from the negative battery terminal. Turn the
fan by hand. Some resistance should be felt. If
the fan turns easily, renew the fan clutch.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, makesure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Removal and refitting
6Leave the battery cable disconnected (see
the Caution in Step 5).
7Remove the fan’s drivebelt (see Chapter 1).
8Remove the nuts holding the fan assembly
to the water pump (see illustration). Note:
You’ll have to “walk” the fan assembly forward
as you loosen the nuts. There is not enough
room to remove them all the way at one time.
9The fan can be removed without removing
the shroud, if you are only renewing the fan or
clutch (see illustration). Be careful not to
allow the blades contact the radiator fins.
10Remove the two fan shroud mounting
clips at the top of the shroud (see illustration).
11Lift the shroud up and out of the engine
compartment. The bottom of the fan shroud
does not have any fasteners. It has two tangs
on the bottom that slip out of slots in the body
when pulled up.
12The fan clutch can be unbolted from the
fan blade assembly for renewal (see
illustration).
Caution: To prevent silicone fluid from
draining from the clutch assembly into the
fan drive bearing and ruining the lubricant,
DON’T place the clutch in a position with
the rear pointing down. Store the clutch in
its upright position if possible.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3
4.9 The fan can be removed with the
shroud in place by angling it out of
the shroud4.10 Pry out the two clips (arrow indicates
the left one) at the top of the fan shroud
and lift out the shroud
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.9 The thermostat is fitted with the spring end towards the
cylinder head - use a new O-ring (A) and position jiggle pin (B) up
4.8 Remove the four nuts (arrows indicate three shown here)
holding the fan/clutch assembly to the front of the water pump
4.12 Separate the fan clutch from the fan
by removing the four bolts (arrowed)

metal bracing that has a very sharp edge
(see illustration 10.2b). Apply some heavy
duct tape to the edge of the brace before
beginning work in this area, or you could
injure your hands.
4On the passenger’s side, under the dash,
remove the screws holding the plastic cover
where the heater pipes enter the heater/air
conditioning housing (see illustration).
5With the cover off, there is access to
remove the four Allen bolts holding the two
pipes to the heater core (see illustration).
6Move to the right side and unbolt the
climate control computer and pull it down and
away from the heater/air conditioning housing
(see illustrations).
7Remove the four small screws and remove
the plastic plate over the heater core, right
behind where the climate control computer
had been (see illustration).
8Carefully slide the heater core out from the
right side of the heating/air conditioning
housing (see illustration). Note:Keep plenty
of towels or rags on the carpeting to catch any
coolant that may drip.
9Refitting is the reverse order of removal.
When refitting the heater core, make sure all
of the foam insulation strips are in place and
refit new O-rings where the heater pipes enter
the core (see illustration).
10Refill the cooling system, reconnect the
battery and run the engine. Check for leaks
and proper system operation.
12 Heater and air conditioning
control assembly- check,
removal and refitting
4
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental deploy-
ment of the airbag, which could
cause personal injury or damage to the
airbag system, DO NOT work in the vicinity
of the steering wheel or instrument panel.
The manufacturer recommends that, on
airbag-equipped models, the following
procedure should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshopbecause of the special tools and
techniques required to disable the airbag
system.
Removal and refitting
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Chapter 11 for removal of the
console heater control/radio assembly trim
bezel.
3Remove the mounting screws retaining the
heater/air conditioning control assembly to
the console (see illustrations). Pull the
assembly out, and disconnect the electrical
connectors.
3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
11.4 Remove these screws (small arrows)
to remove the plastic plate over the heater
core pipes on the left side11.5 With the cover off, remove the Allen
bolts (arrows indicate three of the four) to
pull the coolant pipes out of the left side of
the heater core11.6a Remove three screws (one arrowed;
one at the top-back and one below) to take
out the climate-control computer on right
side of heater/air conditioning assembly
11.6b Pull away the climate control
computer (arrowed)11.7 Remove the four screws (arrowed)
and the heater core cover plate11.8 Pull the heater core out to the right
3261 Jaguar XJ6
11.9 Retain the original foam insulation on
the heater core or transfer to the new
core, and replace the two O-rings
(arrowed)
12.3a Remove these six screws (arrowed)
to release the control panel/radio
assembly from the console

sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Disconnect the electrical connectors and
the coil wire from the coil.
3Using an ohmmeter, check the coil
resistance:
a) Measure the resistance between the
positive and negative terminals (see
illustration). Compare your reading with
the specified coil primary resistance listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications.
b) Measure the resistance between the
positive terminal and the high tension (HT)
terminal(see illustration). Compare your
reading with the specified coil secondary
resistance listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
4If either of the above tests yield resistance
values outside the specified amount, renew
the coil.
Renewal
5Detach the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. 6Label and disconnect the electrical wires
from the coil terminals.
7Remove the coil mounting fasteners (see
illustration).
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
9 Distributor-
removal and refitting
2
Note:The timing on this ignition system cannot
be adjusted by turning the distributor. Ignition
timing is maintained by the ECU at all times. In
the event the distributor must be removed from
the engine, be sure to follow the precautions
described in this section and mark the engine
and distributor with paint to ensure correct
refitting. If the distributor is not marked, and the
crankshaft is turned while the distributor is out of
the engine, have the distributor installed by a
dealer service department. The distributor must
be installed using a special alignment tool.
Removal
1Detach the battery negative cable. Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the distributor.
3Look for a raised “1” on the distributor cap.
This marks the location for the number one
cylinder spark plug lead terminal. If the cap
does not have a mark for the number one
terminal, locate the number one spark plug
and trace the wire back to the terminal on the
cap.
4Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1)
and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing
toward the number one spark plug terminal.
5Make a mark on the edge of the distributor
base directly below the rotor tip and in line
with it. Also, mark the distributor base and the
engine block to ensure that the distributor is
installed correctly (see illustrations).
6Remove the distributor hold-down bolt,
then pull the distributor out to remove it.
Caution: DO NOT turn the crankshaft while
the distributor is out of the engine, or the
alignment marks will be useless.
5•4 Engine electrical systems
8.3a To check the primary resistance of
the coil, measure the resistance between
the positive and the negative terminals8.3b To check the secondary resistance of
the coil, measure the resistance between
the positive terminal and the HT terminal8.7 Remove the nuts from the coil
mounting bracket (arrowed)
3261 Jaguar XJ6
9.5a Paint or scribe a mark (arrowed) on the edge of the
distributor housing below the rotor tip to ensure that the rotor is
pointing in the same direction when the distributor is reinstalled9.5b Paint or scribe another mark across the cylinder head and
the distributor body (arrowed) to ensure that the distributor is
aligned correctly when it is reinstalled

11Swing the pump toward the engine and
remove the drivebelt from the pump.
12Remove the link arm through-bolt.
13Remove the pivot bolt and front spacer,
rear cone and air injection pump from the
engine compartment.
14Remove the nut securing the front pulley
on the air injection pump.
15Remove the clutch snap-ring and the
clutch.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal.
6 Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) system
Note 1: Some 1990 models have the EGR
vacuum hose routed incorrectly through the
bulkhead securing straps, thereby restricting
the vacuum signal to the EGR valve. Remove
the EGR vacuum hose from the bulkhead
harness and refit a new hose. Secure it to the
engine compartment using tie-wraps and do
not allow any restrictions in the hose.Note 2: Some models have copper sealing
washers that soften and leak around the EGR
valve causing engine performance and
starting problems. Refit steel washers and
pipe adapters into the EGR system. Contact a
Jaguar dealer for the VIN numbers and years
of the models that are affected by this defect.
1To reduce oxides of nitrogen emissions,
some of the exhaust gases are recirculated
through the EGR valve to the intake manifold
to lower combustion temperatures.
2The EGR system consists of the EGR valve,
an EGR solenoid, an EGR gas temperature
sensor and the transfer pipe (see illustration).
Check
EGR valve
3Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4Detach the vacuum hose from the EGR
valve and attach a hand vacuum pump in its
place (see illustration).
5Apply vacuum to the EGR valve. Vacuum
should remain steady and the engine should
run poorly. Note:This action will raise the
pintle and allow exhaust gases to recirculateinto the intake system and cause rough
running condition at idle.Double-check the
movement of the pintle by checking the
diaphragm using the tip of your finger (see
illustration). If the EGR diaphragm moves
smoothly and holds steady when vacuum is
applied, the EGR valve is working properly.
Warning: Don’t burn yourself. If
the EGR valve is hot, wear a
glove or wait until it cools.
a) If the vacuum doesn’t remain steady and
the engine doesn’t run poorly, renew the
EGR valve and recheck it.
b) If the vacuum remains steady but the
engine doesn’t run poorly, remove the
EGR valve and check the valve and the
intake manifold for blockage. Clean or
renew parts as necessary and recheck.EGR system
6Disconnect the hose from the EGR valve,
refit a vacuum gauge and check for vacuum
to the EGR valve. There should be vacuum
present with the engine warmed to operating
temperature (above 140° F) and between
1000 and 4000 rpm (see illustration).
Emissions and engine control systems 6•9
6
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.2 Schematic of the EGR system
6.4 Apply vacuum to the EGR valve and confirm that the valve
opens and allows exhaust gases to circulate. Once it is activated,
the EGR valve should hold steady (no loss in vacuum)
6.5 Use a fingertip to move the diaphragm inside the EGR valve6.6 Check for vacuum to the EGR valve from the throttle body

necessary to detach the brake line. If you’re
removing the caliper for overhaul, detach the
hose from the metal line at the frame bracket
(see Section 8), then disconnect the brake line
from the caliper with a flare-nut spanner to
protect the fitting (see illustration). Plug the
metal line to keep contaminants out of the
brake system and to prevent losing brake
fluid.
3Refer to illustration 3.5c and unbolt the
front or rear caliper.
Overhaul
4Before you remove the piston, place a
wood block between the piston and caliper to
prevent damage as it is removed.
5To remove the piston from the caliper,
apply compressed air to the brake fluid hose
connection on the caliper body (see
illustration). Use only enough pressure to
ease the piston out of its bore. Remove the
dust boot.
Warning: Be careful not to place
your fingers between the piston
and the caliper as the piston
may come out with some force.
Be sure to wear eye protection when using
compressed air.
6Inspect the mating surfaces of the piston
and caliper bore wall. If there is any scoring,
rust, pitting or bright areas, renew the
complete caliper unit with a new one.
7If these components are in good condition,
remove the piston seal from the caliper bore
using a wooden or plastic tool (see
illustration). Metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore.
8Remove the caliper guide pins and the
rubber dust boots from the caliper bracket.
9Wash all the components in brake system
cleaner.
10Using the correct rebuild kit for your
vehicle, reassemble the caliper as follows.11Submerge the new rubber seal in clean
brake fluid and refit it in the lower groove in
the caliper bore, making sure it isn’t twisted.
12Coat the piston with clean brake fluid and
stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of
the piston. Hold the piston over the caliper
bore and insert the rubber flange of the dust
boot into the upper groove in the bore. Start
with the side farthest from you and work your
way around toward the front until it is
completely seated. Push the piston into the
caliper bore until it is bottomed in the bore,
then seat the top of the dust boot in the
groove in the piston.
13Lubricate the sliding surfaces of the guide
pins with silicone-based grease (usually
supplied in the kit), then refit the new dust
boots and pins into the caliper bracket.
Refitting
14Refit the caliper by reversing the removal
procedure (see Section 3).
15If the brake hose was disconnected from
the caliper, bleed the brake system (see
Section 9).
5 Brake disc- inspection,
removal and refitting
2
Note:The following procedure applies to both
the front and rear brake discs.
Inspection
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel and refit three nuts to hold
the disc in place. If the rear brake disc is being
worked on, release the handbrake.
2Remove the brake caliper as outlined in
Section 4. It is not necessary to disconnect
the brake hose. After removing the caliper,
suspend it out of the way with a piece of wire.
3Visually inspect the disc surface for scoring
or damage. Light scratches and shallow
grooves are normal after use and may not
always be detrimental to brake operation, but
deep scoring - over 0.015 inch - requires disc
removal and refinishing by an automotive
machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of
the disc (see illustration). If pulsating has
9•4 Braking system
4.7 Remove the piston seal from the
caliper bore using a wooden or plastic tool
(metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore)5.3 The brake pads on this vehicle were
obviously neglected, as they wore down to
the rivets and cut deep grooves into the
disc - this disc must be replaced
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Use a flare-nut spanner to protect the brake hose fitting when
unscrewing it from the caliper
4.5 With the caliper padded to catch the piston, use compressed
air to force the piston out of its bore - make sure your fingers are
not between the piston and the caliper

Braking system 9•7
9
6.7d Pry off the end cap6.7e Locate the stopper pin (arrowed)
inside the forward grommet hole . . .6.7f . . . insert a punch into the pocket of
the primary piston, place the master
cylinder vertically as shown, push down
on the master cylinder to depress the
pistons and pull out the stopper pin
with a magnet
6.7g Remove the primary piston6.7h Remove the secondary piston6.7i If the secondary piston is stuck, rap
the master cylinder on a wood block to
dislodge it
3261 Jaguar XJ6
6.7j Remove the seals and cups from the
pistons - be very careful not to scratch the
piston surface - then wash the secondary
piston with clean brake fluid and inspect it;
if the secondary piston is damaged, you
must renew the master cylinder with a new
or rebuilt unit (a new primary piston is
included with the rebuild kit)6.7l The master cylinder assembly
1 Roll pin
2 Reservoir
3 Grommets
4 End plate
5 Primary piston
6 Secondary piston stopper pin
7 Secondary piston6.7k Refit the new O-ring seals and cups
as shown; make sure the cups on the
primary piston (the one on the left) face
forward as shown (toward the spring), and
the cups on the secondary piston (the one
on the right) face out, away from the piston
(the one on the left faces toward the
primary piston, the one on the right faces
toward the spring)