transmission JAGUAR XJ6 1997 2.G Owner's Manual

Inspection
8Clean and dry the pump body and both
rotors. Measure the outside diameter of the
outer rotor and thickness of both rotors.
9Place the outer rotor into the pump body
and use feeler gauges to measure the
clearance between the outer rotor and the
body (see illustration).
10Place a straightedge across the pump
body and measure between the straightedge
and the rotors to check the over-the-rotor
clearance (see illustration). Compare your
measurements to this Chapter’s Specifications
and renew the oil pump if any are beyond the
maximum allowable.
11Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap.
Remove and clean the relief valve components
(see illustration).
12Clean all components with solvent and
inspect them for wear and damage. If
excessive wear, damage or if any clearance is
beyond the Specifications, renew the entire
pump as an assembly.
13Check the oil pressure relief valve piston
sliding surface and valve spring. If either the
spring or the valve is damaged, they must be
renewed as a set.
Refitting
14Lubricate the drive and driven rotors with
clean engine oil and place them in the casewith the marks facing out. Apply a thin coat
of anaerobic sealant (Loctite 510 or 518) to
the gasket flange and refit the cover (see
illustration).
15Lubricate the oil pressure relief valve
piston with clean engine oil and refit the valve
components into the oil pump body (see
illustration 13.11).
16Apply a thin coat of anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the oil pump-to-engine
block-mounting surface, position the oil pump
body against the engine block and refit the
mounting bolts, tightening the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Follow a criss-cross pattern when tightening
the bolts to avoid warping the oil pump body.
17If using the original oil pump, refit the
original sprocket shim pack (see illustration).
If a new pump is installed, start off with a
0.38 mm (0.015-inch) thick shim pack, refit the
drive sprocket and align the sprocket as
follows.
18Use a straightedge to check the alignment
of the oil pump sprocket with the crankshaft
sprocket (see illustration). If they are not
aligned, increase or decrease the shim pack at
the oil pump sprocket until alignment is correct,
then secure the oil pump sprocket bolts by
bending up the sheetmetal tabs. Note:You
may be able to use all or part of the original
shim pack from the original oil pump (if a new
pump is being fitted). If required, shims areavailable in 0.127 mm (0.005 inch), 0.254 mm
(0.010 inch) and 0.508 mm (0.020 inch) sizes.
19Fit new O-rings to each end of the transfer
tubes and refit the tubes into the transfer
housing. Note:Use petroleum jelly to lubricate
the O-rings.
20Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the
engine block-mounting surface of the transfer
housing. Lift the transfer housing and tubes
into place and push the front of the tubes
in the back of the oil pump, until you can start
the transfer housing-to-engine block bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
21Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
22Add oil, start the engine and check for oil
pressure and leaks.
23Recheck the engine oil level.
14 Driveplate-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands, then refer to Chapter 7 and
remove the transmission. If it’s leaking, now
would be a very good time to renew the front
pump seal/O-ring.
2A•16 Engine in-car repair procedures
13.9 Measure the outer rotor-to-body
clearance with feeler gauges (arrowed)13.10 With a straightedge held tight to the
pump surface, measure the clearance over
the rotors with feeler gauges13.11 Oil pressure relief valve components
A Relief valve cap
B TubeC Spring
D Valve
13.14 Apply a thin coat anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the pump cover
sealing surface
13.17 Refit the original shim pack
(arrowed) if the original pump is being
used - if a new pump is being installed,
refit a 0.38 mm (0.015-inch) shim pack
3261 Jaguar XJ6
13.18 Check the oil pump and crankshaft
sprocket alignment with a straightedge -
add or subtract shims until the sprockets
are aligned for smooth chain operation

2Use a centre punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the driveplate and
crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during
refitting(see illustration).
3Remove the bolts that secure the driveplate
to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns,
wedge a screwdriver through a hole in the
driveplate to keep it from turning (see
illustration).
4Remove the driveplate from the crankshaft.
A spacer is located behind the driveplate(see
illustration). Pry it off and store it with the
driveplate.
Warning: The ring-gear teeth
may be sharp, wear gloves to
protect your hands when
handling the driveplate.
Refitting
5Clean the driveplate to remove grease and
oil. Inspect the surface for cracks. Check for
cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Note:If
there is any damage to the driveplate, replace
the driveplate with a new driveplate, a new
spacer and new bolts. Improved parts are
available as a set from the dealer.
6Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the driveplate and the crankshaft. If the
crankshaft rear seal is leaking, renew it before
refitting the driveplate (see Section 15).
7Position the driveplate against the
crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made
during removal. Some models may have an
alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to
ensure correct refitting. Before refitting the
bolts, apply thread-locking compound to the
bolt threads.
8Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth
to keep the driveplate from turning and tighten
the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Follow a criss-cross pattern
and work up to the final torque in three or four
steps.
9The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
the removal procedure.
15 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
renewal
4
1The transmission adapter plate and
driveplate must be removed from the car for
this procedure (see Chapter 7).
2Remove the bolts, and detach the oil seal
retainer. Remove the gasket material from the
block and the seal retainer (see illustration).
3Position the oil seal and retainer assembly
between two wood blocks on a workbench
and drive the old seal out from the backside
(see illustration).
4The new seal must be driven into the
retainer plate from the engine side. Drive thenew seal into the retainer with a wood block
or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter
than the outside diameter of the seal (see
illustration). The seal should be driven in only
until it is flush with the transmission side of
the retainer.
Caution: The new seal comes with a
special plastic refitting sleeve inserted in
the seal. It is designed to allow the seal to
slide over the end of the crankshaft
without displacing the seal lip. Do NOT
remove this plastic sleeve until the retainer
and seal have been installed on the engine.
5Lubricate the seal area of the crankshaft
with engine oil. Apply a bead of RTV sealant
to the sealing surface of the retainer (see
illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•17
2A
14.2 Mark the driveplate and the
crankshaft so they can be reassembled in
the same relative position14.3 Use a screwdriver to secure the
flywheel while the bolts are removed14.4 Pry off the driveplate spacer - if a
driveplate is replaced, the spacer should
be replaced also
15.2 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
crankshaft rear oil seal retainer from the
back of the engine block15.3 After removing the retainer assembly
from the engine block, support it between
two wood blocks and drive out the old seal
with a drift punch and hammer
15.4 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a wood block
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.5 Apply RTV sealant
to the sealing surface

6Slowly and carefully press the seal and
retainer squarely onto the crankshaft (see
illustration). The plastic sleeve may be
pushed out as the retainer seats on the engine
block. Remove the plastic sleeve.
7Refit and tighten the retainer bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8The remaining steps are the reverse of
removal.
16 Engine mounts-
check and renewal
3
1Engine mounts seldom require attention,
but broken or deteriorated mounts should be
renewed immediately or the added strain
placed on the driveline components may
cause damage or wear.
Check
2During the check, the engine must be
raised to remove the weight from the mounts.3Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands, then position a jack under the
engine sump. Place a large wood block
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine just enough to take
the weight off the mounts. Do not position the
wood block under the drain plug.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it’s supported by a jack!
4Check the front mounts to see if the rubber
is cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split
down the centre.
5Check for relative movement between the
mount plates and the engine or frame (use a
large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to
move the mounts). If movement is noted,
lower the engine and tighten the mount
fasteners.
6Rubber preservative should be applied to
the mounts to slow deterioration.
Renewal
7Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
8Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands. Support the engine as described
in paragraph 3.
Caution: Ensure the cooling fan doesn’t hit
the shroud as the engine is raised.
9To remove either engine mount, remove the
nut from the engine bracket, then raise the
engine (see illustration).
10From underneath the car, lower the
steering gear (see Chapter 10) for access to
the nut retaining the insulator to the chassis
bracket.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal. Use
thread-locking compound on the mount
bolts/nuts and be sure to tighten them
securely.
12See Chapter 7 for transmission mount
renewal.
2A•18 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 15.6 Refit the retainer and oil seal onto the crankshaft
16.9 Front engine mount (A)
and retaining nut to engine bracket (B)

rebuilt engine or short block, some rebuilders
will not warranty their engines unless the
radiator has been professionally flushed. Also,
we don’t recommend overhauling the oil
pump - always refit a new one when an engine
is rebuilt.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult,
but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle
being tied up for a minimum of two weeks,
especially if parts must be taken to an
automotive machine workshop for repair or
reconditioning. Check on availability of parts
and make sure that any necessary special
tools and equipment are obtained in advance.
Most work can be done with typical hand
tools, although a number of precision
measuring tools are required for inspecting
parts to determine if they must be renewed.
Often an automotive machine workshop will
handle the inspection of parts and offer
advice concerning reconditioning and
renewal. Note:Always wait until the engine
has been completely dismantled and all
components, especially the engine block,
have been inspected before deciding what
service and repair operations must be
performed by an automotive machine
workshop. Since the engine block’s condition
will be the major factor to consider when
determining whether to overhaul the original
engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase
parts or have machine work done on other
components until the engine block has been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it
doesn’t pay to refit worn or substandard
parts.
If it turns out that a number of major
components are beyond reconditioning, it
may be cost effective to buy a factory-rebuilt
engine from a Jaguar dealership.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Vacuum gauge
diagnostic checks
2
A vacuum gauge provides valuable
information about what is going on in the
engine at a low cost. You can check for worn
rings or cylinder walls, leaking cylinder head or
intake manifold gaskets, incorrect carburettor
adjustments, restricted exhaust, stuck or
burned valves, weak valve springs, improper
ignition or valve timing and ignition problems.
Unfortunately, vacuum gauge readings are
easy to misinterpret, so they should be used
with other tests to confirm the diagnosis.
Both the absolute readings and the rate of
needle movement are important for accurate
interpretation. Most gauges measure vacuumin inches of mercury (in-Hg). As vacuum
increases (or atmospheric pressure decreases),
the reading will decrease. Also, for every
1000 foot increase in elevation above sea level;
the gauge readings will decrease about one
inch of mercury.
Connect the vacuum gauge directly to
intake manifold vacuum, not to ported (above
the throttle plate) vacuum (see illustration).
Be sure no hoses are left disconnected during
the test or false readings will result.
Before you begin the test, allow the engine
to warm up completely. Block the wheels and
set the handbrake. With the transmission in
Park, start the engine and allow it to run at
normal idle speed.
Warning: Carefully inspect the
fan blades for cracks or damage
before starting the engine. Keep
your hands and the vacuum
tester clear of the fan and do not stand in
front of the vehicle or in line with the fan
when the engine is running.
Read the vacuum gauge; an average,
healthy engine should normally produce
between 17 and 22 inches of vacuum with a
fairly steady needle.
Refer to the following vacuum gauge
readings and what they indicate about the
engines condition:
1A low steady reading usually indicates a
leaking gasket between the intake manifold
and carburettor or throttle body, a leaky
vacuum hose, late ignition timing or incorrect
camshaft timing. Check ignition timing with a
timing light and eliminate all other possible
causes, utilising the tests provided in this
Chapter before you remove the timing belt
cover to check the timing marks.
2If the reading is three to eight inches below
normal and it fluctuates at that low reading,
suspect an intake manifold gasket leak at an
intake port or a faulty injector.
3If the needle has regular drops of about two
to four inches at a steady rate the valves are
probably leaking. Perform a compression or
leak-down test to confirm this.
4An irregular drop or down-flick of the
needle can be caused by a sticking valve or
an ignition misfire. Perform a compression or
leak-down test and read the spark plugs.5A rapid vibration of about four in-Hg
vibration at idle combined with exhaust
smoke indicates worn valve guides. Perform a
leak-down test to confirm this. If the rapid
vibration occurs with an increase in engine
speed, check for a leaking intake manifold
gasket or cylinder head gasket, weak valve
springs, burned valves or ignition misfire.
6A slight fluctuation, say one inch up and
down, may mean ignition problems. Check all
the usual tune-up items and, if necessary, run
the engine on an ignition analyser.
7If there is a large fluctuation, perform a
compression or leak-down test to look for a
weak or dead cylinder or a blown cylinder
head gasket.
8If the needle moves slowly through a wide
range, check for a clogged PCV system,
incorrect idle fuel mixture, throttle body or
intake manifold gasket leaks.
9Check for a slow return after revving the
engine by quickly snapping the throttle open
until the engine reaches about 2,500 rpm and
let it shut. Normally the reading should drop to
near zero, rise above normal idle reading
(about 5 in.-Hg over) and then return to the
previous idle reading. If the vacuum returns
slowly and doesn’t peak when the throttle is
snapped shut, the rings may be worn. If there
is a long delay, look for a restricted exhaust
system (often the silencer or catalytic
converter). An easy way to check this is to
temporarily disconnect the exhaust ahead of
the suspected part and redo the test.
4 Cylinder compression check
2
1A compression check will tell you what
mechanical condition the upper end (pistons,
rings, valves, cylinder head gasket) of your
engine is in. Specifically, it can tell you if the
compression is down due to leakage caused
by worn piston rings, defective valves and
seats or a blown cylinder head gasket. Note:
The engine must be at normal operating
temperature and the battery must be fully
charged for this check.
2Begin by cleaning the area around the
spark plugs before you remove them
(compressed air should be used, if available,
otherwise a small brush or even a bicycle tyre
pump will work). The idea is to prevent dirt
from getting into the cylinders as the
compression check is being done.
3Remove all of the spark plugs from the
engine (see Chapter 1).
4Block the throttle wide open.
5Detach the coil wire from the centre of the
distributor cap and ground it on the engine
block. Use a jumper wire with alligator clips on
each end to ensure a good earth. Also,
remove the fuel pump relay (see Chapter 4) to
disable the fuel pump during the compression
test.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•3
2B
3.4 The vacuum gauge is easily attached
to a port on the intake manifold, and can
tell a lot about an engine’s state of tune
3261 Jaguar XJ6

6Refit the compression gauge in the spark
plug hole (see illustration).
7Crank the engine over at least seven
compression strokes and watch the gauge.
The compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown cylinder head gasket (a
cracked cylinder head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders and compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
9Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,
through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increase
significantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or cylinder head gasket. Leakage past
the valves may be caused by burned valve
seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the cylinder head gasket between them is
blown. The appearance of coolant in the
combustion chambers or the crankcase
would verify this condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head(s) should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed by
an automotive repair workshop. This test will
pinpoint exactly where the leakage is
occurring and how severe it is.
5 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in the
front of this manual, wooden blocks and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and petrol. If
the hoist must be rented, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance and perform all of the
operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine workshop will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These shops often have a
busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
6 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Note:Read through the entire Section before
beginning this procedure. It is recommended
to remove the engine and transmission from
the top as a unit, then separate the engine
from the transmission on the workshop floor. If
the transmission is not being serviced, it is
possible to leave the transmission in the
vehicle and remove the engine from the top by
itself, by removing the crankshaft damper and
tilting up the front end of the engine for
clearance,but access to the upper
bellhousing bolts is only practical when the
rear transmission mount and driveshaft have
been removed and the transmission is angled
down with a trolley jack.
Removal
1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
3Place protective covers on the wings and
cowl and remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
4Remove the battery and battery tray.
5Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
6Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Drain the cooling system and
engine oil and remove the drivebelts (see
Chapter 1).
7Clearly label, then disconnect all vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
harness connectors and earth straps.
Masking tape and/or a touch up paint
applicator work well for marking items (see
illustration). Take instant photos or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
8Remove the cooling fan(s) and radiator (see
Chapter 3).
9Disconnect the heater hoses.
10Release the residual fuel pressure in the
tank by removing the petrol cap, then detach
the fuel lines connecting the engine to the
chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open
fittings.
2B•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6 A compression gauge with a threaded
fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred
over the type that requires hand pressure
to maintain the seal - be sure to block
open the throttle valve as far as possible
during the compression check!
6.7 Label both ends of each wire and hose
before disconnecting it
3261 Jaguar XJ6

11Disconnect the throttle linkage,
transmission linkage (and dipstick tube) and
speed control cable, if equipped, from the
engine (see Chapters 4 and 7).
12Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
13Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10). Tie the pump aside without
disconnecting the hoses. Refer to Part A for
removal of the hydraulic pump (if equipped)
from the timing chain cover.
14On air-conditioned models, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside. Do not
disconnect the refrigerant hoses. Note:Wire
the compressor out of the way with a coat
hanger, don’t let the compressor hang on the
hoses.
15Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the drivebelts, water pump pulley and
crankshaft pulley.
16Attach a lifting sling to the engine.
Position a hoist and connect the sling to it.
Take up the slack until there is slight tension
on the hoist.
17With a trolley jack and piece of wood
supporting the bottom of the transmission
sump, refer to Chapter 8 and remove the
driveshaft and rear transmission mount.
Warning: Do not place any part
of your body under the
engine/transmission when it’s
supported only by a hoist or
other lifting device.
18With the hoist taking the weight of the
engine, unbolt the engine mounts (see Part A
of this Chapter).
19Recheck to be sure nothing is still
connecting the engine or transmission to the
vehicle. Disconnect and label anything still
remaining.
20Slowly lift the engine/transmission out of
the vehicle (see illustration). It may be
necessary to pry the mounts away from the
frame brackets.21Move the engine away from the vehicle
and carefully lower the hoist until the
engine/transmission can be set on the floor.
Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the
transmission and converter. Refer to Part A of
this Chapter for removal of the flywheel. With
the flywheel removed, remove the four large
bolts and the transmission adapter plate from
the engine (see illustration).
22Refer to Part A of this Chapter for removal
of the rear main seal retainer plate from the
back of the engine, then lift the engine to a
position where it can be attached to a sturdy
engine stand.
Refitting
23Check the engine/transmission mounts. If
they’re worn or damaged, renew them.
24Attach the hoist and remove the engine
from the stand. Refer to Part A of this Chapter
and renew the rear main seal and retainer
plate, then reattach the transmission adapter
plate and refer to Chapter 7 for mounting the
converter and transmission.
25Carefully lower the engine into the vehicle
with the hoist. An assistant is helpful to guide
the engine clear of accessories in the engine
compartment as the engine is lowered into
place.
26Refit the engine mount bolts and tighten
them securely. Raise the back of the
transmission with the trolley jack and reattach
the transmission mount, driveshaft and shift
linkage.
27Refit the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
28Add coolant, oil, power steering and
transmission fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
29Run the engine and check for proper
operation and leaks. Shut off the engine and
recheck the fluid levels.
7 Engine rebuilding
alternatives
The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number
of options when performing an engine
overhaul. The decision to renew the engine
block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and
crankshaft depends on a number of factors,
with the number one consideration being the
condition of the engine block. Other
considerations are cost, access to machine
workshop facilities, parts availability, time
required to complete the project and the
extent of prior mechanical experience on the
part of the do-it-yourselfer.
Some of the rebuilding alternatives include:
Individual parts- If the inspection
procedures reveal that the engine block and
most engine components are in reusable
condition, purchasing individual parts may be
the most economical alternative. The engine
block, cylinder head, crankshaft, and
piston/connecting rod assemblies should all
be inspected carefully. Even if the engine
block shows little wear, the cylinder bores
should be surface honed.
Short block- A short block consists of an
engine block with a crankshaft and
piston/connecting rod assemblies already
installed. All new bearings are incorporated
and all clearances will be correct. The existing
camshafts, valve train components, cylinder
head and external parts can be bolted to the
short block with little or no machine workshop
work necessary.
Long block- A long block consists of a
short block plus an oil pump, sump, cylinder
head, valve cover, camshaft and valve train
components, timing sprockets and chain or
gears and timing cover. All components are
installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•5
2B
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.20 Lift the engine high enough to clear the vehicle, tilting it up
at the front to clear the front crossmember, then move it away
and lower the hoist
6.21 With the engine on the floor but still supported by the hoist,
remove the four large bolts (arrowed) and pull off the
transmission adapter plate

incorporated throughout. The refitting of
manifolds and external parts is all that’s
necessary. Engines in this rebuilt form are
available from Jaguar dealers, and some
independent rebuilders.
Give careful thought to which alternative is
best for you and discuss the situation with
local automotive machine shops, auto parts
dealers and experienced rebuilders before
ordering or purchasing replacement parts.
8 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
1It’s much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it’s mounted on a portable
engine stand. A stand can often be rented
quite cheaply from an equipment rental yard.
Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the
driveplate and rear oil seal retainer should be
removed from the engine.
2If a stand isn’t available, it’s possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on the
floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop the
engine when working without a stand.
3If you’re going to obtain a rebuilt engine, all
external components must come off first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine, just
as they will if you’re doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself. These include:
Alternator and brackets
Emissions control components
Distributor, spark plug leads and spark
plugs
Thermostat and housing cover
Water pump
EFI components
Intake/exhaust manifolds
Oil filter
Engine mounts
Driveplate
Transmission adapter plate
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the installed
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
brackets, washers, bolts and other small items.
4If you’re obtaining a short block, which
consists of the engine block, crankshaft,
pistons and connecting rods all assembled,
then the cylinder head, sump and oil pump will
have to be removed as well from your engine
so that your short-block can be turned in to
the rebuilder as a core. See Engine rebuilding
alternativesfor additional information
regarding the different possibilities to be
considered.
5If you’re planning a complete overhaul, the
engine must be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order:
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Valve cover
Upper timing chain and camshaft
sprocketsCamshafts
Timing chain cover
Cylinder head
Sump
Oil pump
Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer
Crankshaft and main bearings
6Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure the following
items are available. Also, refer to Section 21
for a list of tools and materials needed for
engine reassembly.
Common hand tools
Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for
storing parts
Gasket scraper
Ridge reamer
Micrometers
Telescoping gauges
Dial indicator set
Valve spring compressor
Cylinder surfacing hone
Piston ring groove-cleaning tool
Electric drill motor
Tap and die set
Wire brushes
Oil gallery brushes
Cleaning solvent
Special Jaguar tools
Engine lifting brackets (18G 1465)
Timing damper simulator (18E 1436)
Camshaft TDC tool (18G 1433)
9 Cylinder head- dismantling
2
Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are
available from Jaguar and some independent
rebuilders. Due to the fact that some
specialised tools are necessary for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
replacement parts may not be readily
available, it may be more practical and
economical for the home mechanic to
purchase a replacement cylinder head rather
than taking the time to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original.1Cylinder head dismantling involves removal
of the intake and exhaust valves and related
components. It’s assumed that the lifters and
camshafts have already been removed (see
Part A as needed).
2Before the valves are removed, arrange to
label and store them, along with their related
components, so they can be kept separate
and reinstalled in the same valve guides they
are removed from (see illustration).
3Compress the springs on the first valve with
a spring compressor and remove the keepers
(see illustration). Carefully release the valve
spring compressor and remove the retainer,
the spring and the spring seat (if used). Note:
If your spring compressor does not have an
end (such as the one shown) with cut-outs on
the side, an adapter is available to use with a
standard spring compressor.
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or
otherwise damage the lifter bores when
compressing the valve springs.
4Pull the valve out of the cylinder head, then
remove the oil seal from the guide. If the valve
binds in the guide (won’t pull through), push it
back into the cylinder head and deburr the
area around the keeper groove with a fine file
or whetstone.
5Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Remember to keep all the parts for
each valve together so they can be reinstalled
in the same locations.
6Once the valves and related components
have been removed and stored in an
organised manner, the cylinder head should
be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a
complete engine overhaul is being done,
finish the engine dismantling procedures
before beginning the cylinder head cleaning
and inspection process.
10 Cylinder head-
cleaning and inspection
2
1Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head(s)
and related valve train components, followed
by a detailed inspection, will enable you to
decide how much valve service work must be
2B•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
9.2 A small plastic bag, with an appropriate
label, can be used to store the valve train
components so they can be kept together
and reinstalled in the correct guide
3261 Jaguar XJ6
9.3 Compress the spring until the keepers
can be removed with a small magnetic
screwdriver or needle-nose pliers - use a
valve spring compressor with an adapter
(arrowed) to remove the keepers

5If equipped with an automatic transmission,
disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator
(see illustrations). Disconnect the cooling fan
switch connector (see illustration 4.15).
Place a drip pan to catch the fluid and cap the
fittings. Note:The transmission oil cooler lines
enter the radiator on the left, while the power
steering cooler lines attach on the right side of
the radiator. On 1993 and 1994 models, the
cooler fittings require a spring-lock coupling
tool, normally used on fuel lines or air
conditioning lines.
6Remove the four bolts from the radiator
cowl panel and take off the panel (see
illustration).
7Lift out the radiator. Be aware of dripping
fluids and the sharp fins. Take care not to
damage the radiator fins by contact with other
parts.
8With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks, damage and internal
blockage. If repairs are necessary, have a
radiator specialist or dealer service department
perform the work, as special techniques are
required. Check the rubber mounting pads on
the bottom of the radiator (see illustration). If
they’re cracked or damaged, get new ones
before refitting the radiator.
9Bugs and dirt can be cleaned from the
radiator with compressed air and a soft brush.
Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.
Warning: Wear eye protection.
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure the rubber mounts are in
place on the bottom of the radiator.
11After refitting, fill the cooling system with
the proper mixture of antifreeze and water.
Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.
12Start the engine and check for leaks.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, indicated by both radiator hoses
becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and
add more if required.
13On automatic transmission equipped
models, check and add fluid as needed and
check the power steering fluid level as well.
Expansion tank and coolant
reservoir, removal and refitting
14The expansion tank is located at the top
of the left-hand side inner wing. With the
cooling system drained below the level of the
expansion tank, remove the hoses, the
coolant level probe and the two screws
mounting it to the body (see illustration).
15Wash out and inspect the reservoir for
cracks and chafing. Renew it if damaged.16If the low-coolant level light has been
showing on the instrument panel, even when
the coolant level is correct, disconnect the
sensor’s connector and test it with an
ohmmeter (see illustration). The sensor
should be renewed if the resistance at the
connections is over 150 ohms.
Caution: Using a long-necked funnel to
add coolant can damage the sensor, which
is just below the expansion tank filler neck.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
5.5a At the left side of the radiator,
disconnect the automatic transmission
cooler lines (small arrows) and the lower
radiator hose (larger arrow)5.5b Disconnect the power steering cooler
lines (small arrows) at the right side of the
radiator, and the upper radiator hose
(large arrow)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 5.3 Remove the clamp and the hose going
to the expansion tank
5.6 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and take
off the radiator cowl panel
5.14 The expansion tank is located on the
left inner wing
A Hose to recovery tank (where applicable)
B Hose to radiator
C Hose to thermostat housing
D Hose to water pump housing
E Mounting screws
F Low-coolant-level sensor
5.8 There are rubber mounts (arrowed)
for the radiator and the condenser -
they must be in place when these
components are reinstalled
5.16 The low-coolant-level sensor can be
tested with an ohmmeter - resistance
should be below 150 ohms - gently use a
pair of long-neck pliers to move the sensor
up and down in the tank to get a reading

10 Accelerator cable- removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Loosen the locknut on the threaded portion
of the throttle cable at the throttle body (see
illustration).
3Rotate the throttle lever, then slip the
throttle cable end out of the slot in the lever
(see illustration).
4Detach the throttle cable from the
accelerator pedal (see illustration).
5From inside the vehicle, pull the cable
through the bulkhead.
Refitting and adjustment
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7To adjust the cable, fully depress the
accelerator pedal and check that the throttle
is fully opened.
8If not fully opened, loosen the locknuts,
depress accelerator pedal and adjust the
cable until the throttle is fully open.
9Tighten the locknuts and recheck the
adjustment. Make sure the throttle closes fully
when the pedal is released (see illustration).
10After the cable is adjusted, check the
adjustment of the bellcrank. Use a small
clamp and a straight rod or stiff wire (coat
hanger) and attach it to the brake master
cylinder in such a way that the tip acts as a
pointer. Align the pointer with “A” (automatic
transmission) or “M” (manual transmission) on
the bellcrank (see illustration),depending on
what type of transmission is installed in the
vehicle.
11Slowly rotate the bellcrank until it reaches
the throttle stop (wide open throttle) andcheck to make sure the pointer aligns with the
notch in the bellcrank (see illustration).
12If necessary, adjust the position of
the throttle stop using a spanner and turn the
throttle stop screw until the bellcrank reaches
the correct position. Lock the throttle stop
screw in place.
4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.4 Remove circlip (arrowed) and separate cable from the
accelerator pedal by pulling the pin from the pedal assembly
10.2 Loosen the locknuts on the accelerator cable10.3 Rotate the bellcrank and remove the cable end from the slot
10.9 Make sure the throttle closes completely and there is a
slight amount of flex in the cable
10.10 Attach a strong wire (coat hanger)
to the master cylinder using a clamp and
align it with the notch on the bellcrank

8After the alternator is installed, adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
9Check the charging voltage to verify proper
operation of the alternator (see Section 11).
13 Starting system- general
information and precautions
The sole function of the starting system is
to crank the engine over quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, the
starter relay and the electrical circuit
connecting the components. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
The solenoid/starter motor assembly is
installed on the upper part of the engine, next
to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to the
START position, the starter solenoid is
actuated through the starter control circuit.
The starter solenoid then connects the battery
to the starter. The battery supplies the
electrical energy to the starter motor, which
does the actual work of cranking the engine.
The starter on a vehicle equipped with an
automatic transmission can be operated only
when the transmission selector lever is in Park
or Neutral.
These vehicles are equipped with either a
Bosch or Lucas starter assembly. The Lucas
unit is distinguished by the separate earth
strap from the solenoid to the starter body.
Bosch starter assemblies are equipped with a
solid metal earthing bar.
The starting system circuit is equipped with
a relay. The relay allows the ignition switch to
power the starter solenoid.
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor
can overheat it and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at
least two minutes.
b) The starter is connected directly to the
battery and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or short circuited.
c) Always detach the cable from the
negative terminal of the battery before
working on the starting system.
Caution:If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
14 Starter motor-
testing in vehicle
2
1Make sure that the battery is charged and
that all cables, both at the battery and starter
solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.2If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that the
shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic
transmission) or that the clutch pedal is
depressed (manual transmission).
3If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the
starter motor is slipping and the starter motor
must be renewed.
4If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard
when the switch is actuated, the battery is
bad, the in-line fuse is burned (the circuit is
open), the starter relay (see illustration)is
defective or the starter solenoid itself is
defective.
6To check the solenoid, connect a jumper
lead between the battery (+) and the ignition
switch terminal (the small terminal) on the
solenoid. If the starter motor now operates,
the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the
ignition switch, linear switch (1988 to 1992),
rotary switch (1993 and 1994) or in the wiring.
7If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove the starter/solenoid assembly for
dismantling, testing and repair.
8If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged and that all terminalconnections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then disconnect the
coil wire from the distributor cap and earth it
on the engine.
10Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the
battery positive post and connect the
negative lead to the negative post.
11Crank the engine and take the voltmeter
readings as soon as a steady figure is
indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A
reading of nine volts or more, with the starter
motor turning at normal cranking speed, is
normal. If the reading is nine volts or more but
the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty.
If the reading is less than nine volts and the
cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts
are probably burned, the starter motor is bad,
the battery is discharged or there is a bad
connection.
15 Starter motor-
removal and refitting
2
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely
using axle stands.
3Drain the transmission fluid (see Chapter 7)
and remove the transmission fluid filler tube
from the transmission.
4Detach the electrical connectors from the
starter/solenoid assembly (see illustrations).
5Place a trolley jack under the tail section of
the transmission, remove the rear trans-
mission mount (see Chapter 7) and lower the
transmission slightly to gain access to the
upper transmission bellhousing bolts. Using
an extension with a swivel socket, remove the
upper starter mounting bolt (see illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
14.5 With the ignition key ON (engine not
running), check for battery voltage to the
starter relay
15.4a Disconnect the solenoid electrical
connector at the harness connector
located near the bulkhead behind the
cylinder head (arrowed)15.4b From underneath the vehicle,
remove the battery terminal from the
solenoid (cylinder head removed
for clarity)
3261 Jaguar XJ6