ECU JEEP CHEROKEE 1995 Service Service Manual

PARKING BRAKE CABLE TENSIONER
REPLACEMENT (XJ)
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove adjuster nut from tensioner rod. Secure
equalizer and cables to nearby chassis component
with wire.
(3) Remove nuts attaching lever assembly to sup-
port plate and floorpan.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove console components and lever assembly
cover.
(6) Remove lever and tensioner assembly.
(7) Move cover and boot for access to tensioner re-
taining pin.
(8) Remove E-clip and pin that attach tensioner to
lever arm (Fig. 4).
(9) Remove tensioner from cover.
(10) Transfer boot to new tensioner if necessary.
(11) Attach tensioner to lever arm with pin and E-
clip.
(12) Verify that E-clip is fully engaged in pin (Fig.
4).
(13) Align cover and seal on lever flange.
(14) Verify that tensioner boot is seated in cover
(Fig. 6).
(15) Install assembled lever and tensioner in floor-
pan.
(16) Install necessary console components.
(17) Adjust parking brakes as described in this sec-
tion.
PARKING BRAKE PEDAL REMOVAL (YJ)
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen equalizer nuts until front cable is slack
(Fig. 13).
(3) Lower vehicle.
(4) Remove dash-to-instrument panel brace rod, if
equipped.
(5) Disconnect warning light wire from parking
brake switch on pedal assembly. Remove switch if re-
placement is necessary.
(6) On some YJ models, a ground wire may be at-
tached to upper end of bolt that secures parking
brake pedal to instrument panel. Wire is secured
with a nut. Be sure to remove nut and detach ground
wire before proceeding. If this wire is not removed
beforehand, wire and harness could be damaged
when pedal assembly bolt is removed. Ground wire
and attaching nut are accessible from under instru-
ment panel.
(7) Remove bolt securing pedal assembly to instru-
ment panel (Fig. 14).
(8) In engine compartment, remove pedal mount-
ing stud nuts.
(9) Remove pedal assembly from panel.
(10) Disengage front cable from retainer (Fig. 14).
(11) Squeeze cable clip (Fig. 14) and pull cable out
of pedal frame.
(12) Remove pedal assembly.
PARKING BRAKE PEDAL INSTALLATION (YJ)
(1) Connect front cable to pedal retainer.
(2) Position pedal assembly on panel and install
mounting stud nuts and pedal-to-dash bolt.
(3) Install ground wire on upper end of pedal-to-
dash bolt and secure wire with attaching nut.
(4) Connect warning light switch wire to pedal con-
nector.
(5) Install dash-to-instrument panel brace rod, if
equipped.
(6) Raise vehicle and adjust brake cables. Refer to
procedure in Service Adjustment section.
Fig. 12 Lever Cover (XJ)
Fig. 13 Front Cable And Equalizer (YJ)
5 - 66 PARKING BRAKESJ

PARKING BRAKE REAR CABLE REPLACEMENT (XJ)
(1) Raise vehicle and loosen equalizer nuts until
rear cables are slack.
(2) Disengage cable from equalizer and remove ca-
ble clip and spring (Fig. 15).
(3) Remove rear wheel and brake drum.
(4) Remove secondary brakeshoe and disconnect
cable from lever on brakeshoe.
(5) Compress cable retainer with worm drive hose
clamp (Fig. 16) and remove cable from backing plate.
(6) Install new cable in backing plate. Be sure ca-
ble retainer is seated.
(7) Attach cable to lever on brakeshoe and install
brakeshoe on backing plate.
(8) Adjust brakeshoes to drum with brake gauge.(9) Install brake drum and wheel.
(10) Engage cable in equalizer and install equal-
izer nuts (Fig. 15).
(11) Adjust parking brakes. Refer to procedure in
this section.
PARKING BRAKE FRONT CABLE REPLACEMENT
(YJ)
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove equalizer nuts (Fig. 17).
(3) Remove front cable from equalizer (Fig. 17).
(4) Remove cable-to-frame bracket clip.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Move front carpeting away from pedal.
(7) Compress clip securing cable to pedal frame
(Fig. 17). Use hose clamp to compress clip.
(8) Disconnect cable from pedal retainer and re-
move cable.
(9) Remove grommet (Fig. 17) from old cable and
transfer it to new cable, if necessary.
(10) Install new cable in floorpan and connect it to
pedal assembly.
(11) Seat cable grommet in floorpan.
(12) Raise the vehicle.
(13) Install cable-to-frame retaining clip.
(14) Insert cable in equalizer and install equalizer
washer and nuts.
(15) Adjust parking brakes as described in Service
Adjustment section.
Fig. 14 Parking Brake Pedal Assembly (YJ)
Fig. 15 Parking Brake Cables (XJ)
Fig. 16 Compressing Rear Cable Retainer
JPARKING BRAKES 5 - 67

PARKING BRAKE REAR CABLE REPLACEMENT (YJ)
(1) Raise vehicle and loosen equalizer nuts (Fig.
17).
(2) Remove clamp and cotter pin attaching rear ca-
ble to equalizer and remove cable.
(3) Remove cable clips.
(4) Remove rear wheel and brake drum.
(5) Remove secondary brakeshoe and disconnect
cable from lever on brakeshoe.
(6) Compress cable retainer with hose clamp (Fig.
16) and remove cable from backing plate.
(7) Install new cable in backing plate. Be sure ca-
ble retainer lock tabs are engaged in plate.
(8) Install secondary brakeshoe.
(9) Adjust brakeshoes to brake drum and install
drum and wheel.
(10) Install cable in equalizer. Secure cable with
retainer and cotter pin.
(11) Install cable clips.
(12) Adjust parking brakes. Refer to procedure in
this section.
PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
The parking brake switch is located on the lever
assembly on XJ models, or on the foot pedal assem-
bly on YJ models (Fig. 18). Switch replacement is de-
scribed in the parking brake lever or foot pedal
removal/installation procedures in this section.
Fig. 17 Parking Brake Components (YJ)
Fig. 18 Parking Brake Switch Location
5 - 68 PARKING BRAKESJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Contamination....................... 3
Clutch Cover and Disc Runout................ 3
Clutch Housing Misalignment................. 4
Clutch Misalignment........................ 3Flywheel Runout........................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3
Inspection and Diagnosis Charts............... 4
Installation Methods and Parts Usage........... 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. This type of leak can only be
confirmed by visual inspection.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However, mi-
nor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (ap-
proximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel if scor-
ing is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

(2) Disconnect release bearing from release lever
and remove bearing (Fig. 6).
(3) Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(4) Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure
pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer
spring if bent or damaged in any way.
(5) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease. Apply grease to
end of long shank, small diameter flat blade screw-
driver. Then insert tool through clutch disc hub to
reach bearing.
(6) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot surface
with Mopar high temperature grease.
(7) Install new release bearing. Be sure bearing is
properly secured to release fork.
(8) Install transmission as described in Group 21.
PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to Group 21 for
procedure.
(2) Remove clutch cover and disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing. Use internal (blind hole)
puller such those as supplied in Snap On Tool Set
CG40CB to remove bearing.
(4) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(5) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig. 7).(6) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(7) Install clutch disc and cover as described in
this section.
Fig. 5 Manual Transmission Mounting (2.5L)
Fig. 6 Release Bearing Attachment
6 - 12 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

(8) Install transmission. Refer to Group 21 for pro-
cedure.
CLUTCH HOUSING REPLACEMENT
The clutch housing is removable and can be re-
placed when the transmission is out of the vehicle.
The bolts attaching the housing to the transmission
case are located inside the housing (Fig. 8). Recom-
mended tightening torque for the clutch housing-to-
transmission bolts is 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.).
Be sure the transmission and housing mating
surfaces are clean before installing an original,
or replacement clutch housing. Dirt/foreign ma-
terial trapped between the housing and trans-
mission will cause misalignment. If
misalignment is severe enough, the result will
be clutch drag, incomplete release and hard
shifting.
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assem-
bly only. The linkage components cannot be
overhauled or serviced separately. The cylin-
ders and connecting line are sealed units. Also
note that removal/installation procedures forright and left hand drive models are basically
the same. Only master cylinder location is dif-
ferent.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing (Fig.
9).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This is necessary to avoid undue spill-
age during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts.
Note that one nut is accessible from engine compart-
ment and one nut is accessible from under instru-
ment panel (Figs. 10 and 11).
(8) Remove clip securing clutch master cylinder
push rod to pedal and slide push rod off pedal pin.
(9) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(10) If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect
condition of bushing and replace it if worn or dam-
aged.
(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through en-
gine compartment.
Fig. 8 Clutch Housing AttachmentFig. 7 Pilot Bearing Installation
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 13

CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE INSTALLATION
(1) Be sure reservoir cover on clutch master cylin-
der is tight to avoid spills.
(2) Position clutch linkage components in vehicle.
Work connecting line and slave cylinder downward
past engine and adjacent to clutch housing.
(3) Position clutch master cylinder on dash panel
(Fig. 12).
(4) Attach clutch master cylinder push rod to pin
on clutch pedal. Secure rod with new clip if neces-
sary.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder at-
taching nuts to 23-34 Nzm (200-300 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch
housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap
on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23-34 Nzm (200-300 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body clips.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect clutch pedal position switch wires.
CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are prefilled with fluid at the
factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances. In fact,the reser-
voir fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. For this reason, it is impor-
tant to avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from
the reservoir.
Fig. 9 Slave Cylinder Attachment
Fig. 10 Clutch Master Cylinder And Push Rod
Attachment (Left Hand Drive Models)
Fig. 11 Clutch Master Cylinder Location (Right Hand
Drive Models)
Fig. 12 Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting (Typical)
6 - 14 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid
may be needed, use Mopar brake fluid, or an equiv-
alent meeting standards SAE J1703 and DOT 3. Do
not use any other type of fluid.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir (Fig. 13). An indicator ring is provided ei-
ther on the side, or interior rim of the reservoir (Fig.
14).
Be sure to wipe the reservoir and cover clean be-
fore removing the cover. This will avoid having dirt
or foreign material fall into the reservoir during a
fluid level check.
CLUTCH PEDAL REMOVAL
(1) Remove instrument panel lower trim cover for
extra working clearance.(2) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(3) Remove retainer clip that attaches clutch mas-
ter cylinder push rod to pedal.
(4) On YJ, remove retaining ring securing pedal to
pivot shaft (Fig. 15). On XJ, remove nut securing
pedal to pivot shaft (Fig. 16).
(5) Move pedal pivot shaft to right and slide pedal
off shaft.
CLUTCH PEDAL INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate clutch pedal pivot shaft and pedal
bushings or sleeve with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(2) Position pedal on pivot shaft and through
brace. Secure pedal with washer and retaining ring
on YJ, or with washer and nut on XJ.
Fig. 13 Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir And CapFig. 14 Reservoir Fluid Level Indicator Ring
Fig. 15 Clutch Pedal Mounting (YJ)
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 15

(3) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
pedal. Secure rod with washer(s) and new cotter pin.
(4) Connect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(5) Install instrument panel lower trim cover, if re-
moved.
FLYWHEEL SERVICE
Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc,
cover and housing are removed for service. Check
condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth,
and flywheel bolts.
Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel
face can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. How-
ever, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc con-
tact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked,
or obviously worn.
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour
that would be negated by machining. However,
cleanup of minor flywheel scoring can be performed
by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grind-
ing equipment. Replace the flywheel if scoring is
deeper than 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).
Heavy stock removal by grinding isnot recom-
mended.Excessive stock removal can result in fly-
wheel cracking or warpage after installation. It can
also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper
clutch release.
Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus-
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly-
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indi-
cator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.
Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching
bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks
in the area of the attaching bolt holes.
Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheelis replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on the replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
²142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
²68 Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) plus an additional turn of 60É
for 4-cylinder flywheels
Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear.If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom-
mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, a replacement ring gear can be installed. How-
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han-
dling a heated ring gear.
(c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-
off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch.
(d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it.The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important.
Every surface of the gear must be heated at the
same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven
or similar enclosed heating device must be used.
Temperature required for uniform expansion is ap-
proximately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to re-
move the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as necessary
for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down
before installation. Set the assembly on a work-
bench and let it cool in normal shop air.
Fig. 16 Clutch Pedal Mounting (XJ)
6 - 16 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Also refer to the previous section on Cooling Sys-
tem Fans.
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 38 or 39) is a
silicone-fluid-filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to either the engine or the water pump shaft.
The coupling allows the fan to be driven in a normal
manner. This is done at low engine speeds while lim-
iting the top speed of the fan to a predetermined
maximum level at higher engine speeds.
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in figure 40). This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm re-
gardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the bi-
metallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again re-
acts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous dis-
engaged speed.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive
belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan
drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to
designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan
or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheat-
ing.CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced be-
cause of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
NOISE
It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very
high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is be-
ing redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
TESTING
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É-to-
105ÉC (0É-to-220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe
light).
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air con-
ditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the
plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
Fig. 40 Typical Viscous Fan Drive
7 - 34 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ