check engine JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
require
a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the
engine
starts the drive
pinion
will
automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)
•
Refer to
Figs.
H-44 and H-45.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or
burn­

ing.
Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage

at the battery terminals and that at the starting 13407

FIG.
H-44—STARTER SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
FIG.
H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 ENGINE
switch terminals. The
voltage
drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should
it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean
full
surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current
model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors.
This
type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.

Should
a solenoid switch
fail
in service it is neces­

sary
to install a new solenoid assembly,
a.
To remove the solenoid switch first remove the nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to the starter
post.
Then
remove nut and lock washer securing battery positive cable to solenoid
post.

Tape
end of battery cable to eliminate the pos- 207

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
cuit
lights,
the
signal switch
is
inoperative
and

must
be
replaced.

H-139.
Hazard
Warning Lights

All
current production vehicles
are
equipped with

a
four-way flasher warning system.
The
control switch
is
located
on the
instrument panel left
of

the steering column.
With
the
switch pulled
out,
the
two
front and
two
rear
turn
signal lights flash
on and
off
simultaneously,
as do
both
turn
signal

indicator
lights
on the
instrument clusters.
H-140.
Marker
Lights and Reflector Assembly

The
marker
lights
and
reflector assemblies
on

current
production vehicles
are
mounted
on the

side
of
the front fender and
on the
side
of
the
rear
quarter
panel.
The
spare wheel also mounts
a

marker
light. Some earlier production vehicles have
reflex reflectors mounted on the side of the hood and
on
the
side
of
the
rear
quarter panel. determine
if
dash wiper switch or wiring
is at
fault,
disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor
and

try
operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If
still
inoperative
see
procedure under
Par.
H-145.
b. Wiper
will
not
shut
off
— Determine
if
wiper
has both
low
and high speeds, slow speed only,
or

high speed only.
It is
important that
the
wiper
operates
at low
speed during parking cycle.
Dis­
connect wiring harness from wiper motor
and try

operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If

wiper
shuts
off
correctly with
crank
arm
in
park
position and wiper has both speeds, check
the
lead

between
terminal
and
dash switch ground
and

check
for
defective dash switch.
If
wiper shuts
off

correctly,
but has
high speed only, check lead
be­

tween wiper terminal and dash switch
for an
open

circuit
and check
for
defective dash switch.
If
still

inoperative,
see
Par. H-145.
c. Wiper
has
only fast speed.
Check
for
defective dash switch
or
open lead
between
terminal
and

dash switch.

H-141.
Windshield Wiper System

Early
production vehicles equipped with
the
Dauntless V-6
engine
have
two
single speed wind­
shield wiper motors mounted above
the
windshield inside
the
vehicle. The wiper motors
are
operated

and
controlled
by a
switch located
on the
instru­
ment panel.

Current
production vehicles with stationary wind­
shield have
a
two-speed
electric windshield wiper motor mounted below
the
windshield outside
the

vehicle on the driver's side. The wiper motor switch is located
on the
instrument panel
to the
left
of

the steering column.

H-142.
Two-Speed Wiper Motor

The
two-speed
electric wiper motor
is
operated and
controlled
by a
turn
type, three poled, dash switch,
containing
a 6
amp. circuit breaker.
Current
flow
is directed from
the
battery through
the
ignition
switch
to the
wiper dash switch assembly
to the

two-speed
wiper motor, which passes current from the designated motor brush (high,
low or
park)
to

the armature circuit
to
ground.

H-143.
Troubleshooting Procedure
Troubleshooting procedures
are
divided into
two

categories: wiper troubleshooting
in
vehicle; wiper
troubleshooting
on
bench.
Fig. H-65 and H-66

illustrates connecting leads
of the
two-speed
wiper for either bench operation
or to run
wiper inde­
pendently
of
dash switch and vehicle wiring when
installed
in the
vehicle.
H-144. Wiper Troubleshooting
in
Vehicle

Typical
wiper troubles and remedies are
as
follows
:

a.
Wiper
is
inoperative
—
Check
wiper switch
cir­

cuit
breaker; wiring harness connection
at
wiper
motor
and
wiper switch; wiper motor
feed
wire

from
ignition starter switch
to
wiper switch;
and
check wiper
on
switch
to be
securely mounted.

With
ignition switch
on,
check
for 12
volts
at
har­

ness
terminal that connects
to
wiper terminal.
To
BLACK
PARK

GREEN *-
RED m~
LOW
PARKING
<^^>

SWITCH
V^-O*'
HIGH

FIG.
H-64—WIRING
DIAGRAM

FIG.
H-65—WINDSHIELD
WIPER
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
(EARLY)
1.
Park
(black)
2. Low (green)

3.
High (red)
d.
Wiper
has
only slow speed
and
shuts
off
with
dash switch in high speed position. Reverse harness
leads that connect
to
wiper terminals.

e. If
blades
do not
return
to
park
position when

wiper
is
turned
off,
check wiper ground connection
to vehicle body. Remove wiper from vehicle
and

check
for
dirty, bent,
or
broken
park
switch con­
tacts.

f.
If
wiper speed
is
normal
in
slow,
but too ex­
cessive
in
fast speed, check for an open terminal. 217

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM H-15L SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Battery
Discha
rged: Shorted
Cell
in Battery......... Short in Wiring..
•
Generator Not Charging ,
Loose or Dirty Terminals
Excessive Use of Starter Excessive Use of Lights...... Insufficient Driving.........

Low
Regulator
Setting.......

Stuck
Cut-out in Regulator. ..

Low
Electrolyte
Level
in Cells

Alternator:
FAILS
TO
CHARGE:
Belt Loose Open or High Resistance in

Charging
or Ground Return
Circuit
or Battery Connections............
Excessively Worn, Open, or
Defective
Brushes.
Open Isolation
Diode.

Open Rotor (Field
Coil)

LOW
OR
UNSTEADY
CHARGING RATE:
Belt Loose.... Intermittent or High Resistance
Charging
or Ground Return
Circuit
or Battery Connections
Excessively Worn, Sticky, or Intermittent Brushes
Shorted or Open Rectifier
Diode
Grounded
or Shorted
Turns
in Rotor (Field
Coil)

Open,
Grounded, or Shorted
Turns
in
Stator

EXCESSIVE
CHARGE RATE:
Loose Connections on Alternator...........

Faulty
Regulator

NOISY
ALTERNATOR:
Defective
or Badly Worn Belt
Misaligned Belt or Pulley
Loose Pulley
Worn
Bearings.
Shorted Rectifiers

Generator:
Low
Charging Rate—
Dirty
Commutator
Poor Brush Contact.
................
Regulator Improperly Adjusted.......

High
Resistance in Charging
Circuit...
Ground
Strap Engine to Frame Broken
Loose or Dirty Terminals Slipping Generator Belt

Worn
Out Brushes

Weak
Brush Spring Tension..........

Out
of Round Commutator
PROBABLE REMEDY

Replace Battery

Check
Wiring
Circuit

Inspect Generator and Fan Belt
Clean
and Tighten

Tune
Engine

Check
Battery
Recharge Battery
Correct
Setting

Correct
Add
Distilled Water
Tighten to
Specifications
Test
and Correct
Test
Brushes and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary
Test
and Replace if Necessary
Tighten to
Specifications

Test
and Correct
Test
and Replace if Necessary
Test
and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary

Test
and Replace if Necessary

Check
and Correct

Check
and Correct
Replace

Align,
Replace Parts as Necessary Tighten Replace Bearings as Necessary
Test
and Replace as Necessary

Clean
Commutator
Repair
or Install New Brushes

Adjust

Clean
and Tighten Terminals Replace

Clean
and Tighten

Adjust
Belt
Install
New Brushes
Replace
Repair
220

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-151.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS—Continued

SYMPTOMS PROBABLE
REMEDY

Generator:
(continued)
Fails
To Charge-Open Charging Circuit Correct
Sticking Brushes Repair or Replace
Dirty
or Burned Commutator ... Clean Commutator
Grounded Commutator Replace
Open Circuit in Field Replace
Weak Soldering on Armature. . . Repair Grounded Wiring Repair

Defective
Regulator. .. Replace Regulator
Too High Charging Rate— Regulator Improperly Adjusted Adjust or Replace
Short in Armature Replace Grounded Field-to-regulator Wire Correct
Shorted
Cell
in Battery... Replace Battery

Starting
Motor: Slow Starter Speed— Discharged Battery or Shorted
Cell
Recharge or Repair
Ground
Strap Engine to Frame. Clean Terminals and Tighten
Loose or Dirty Terminals Clean and Tighten
Dirty
Commutator Clean with No. 00 Sandpaper

Worn
Out Brushes Install New Brushes
Weak Brush Spring Tension Replace

Worn
Bearings Replace Burned Starter Switch Contacts Replace Switch

Will
Not
Turn
Engine— Open Circuit at Starter Correct

Solenoid
Open or Stuck Replace
Solenoid
Starter Switch
Defective
Replace Switch
Starter Drive Broken or Stuck. Repair or Replace
Battery Discharged Recharge Battery

Distributor:
Hard
Starting— Distributor
Points
Burned or Pitted Clean
Points
or Replace (Adjust)

Breaker
Arm Stuck on Pivot Pin...... . ... . . . Clean and Lubricate

Breaker
Arm Spring Weak Replace

Points
Improperly Adjusted Adjust
Spark
Plug
Points
Improperly Set Adjust

Spark
Plug Wire Terminals in Distributor
Cap
Corroded Clean
Loose Terminals Check Circuit
Loose or Dirty Terminals on Ground Strap— Engine to Frame. Clean and Tighten
Condenser Faulty Replace Improper Ignition Timing Set Timing

Lights:
Burn
Dim— Loose or Dirty Terminals....... ........ Clean and Tighten
Leak
in Wires. Check Entire Circuit for Broken Insulation
Poor Switch Contact Install New Switch Poor Ground Connection Clean and Tighten

Aim
Headlamp Beams. Use Aiming
Chart
221

I

CLUTCH 1-1.
GENERAL

The
clutch on current 'Jeep' vehicles is either

Auburn
or Borg and Beck manufactured. Vehicles
equipped with F4-134
engines
have an
Auburn
9.25" [23,4 cm.] single plate dry-disc clutch. The
pressure plate has three coil pressure springs and
three levers or fingers.

The
V6-225
engine
is equipped with a 10.4" [26,4
cm.] Borg and Beck single plate dry-disc clutch.

The
pressure plate utilizes either a finger-type
diaphragm spring, or a coil
type
spring pressure plate for clutch release.

The
driven plates of all
models
are built with
vibra­

tion damper springs and have two flexible facings

which
provide
smooth
engagement
of the
engine
power.
Early
'Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless
V-6
engine
use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single plate, dry-
disc clutch, incorporating a diaphram-type spring assembly.

The
clutch is of the centrifugal single dry disc
type
and
consists of the clutch disc, pressure plate and
the clutch release bearing.

The
clutch is actuated by a clutch pedal and a
series of mechanical linkage.

When
the clutch pedal is in the
engaged
position,
the clutch disc facings are clamped
between
the
friction surface of the
engine
flywheel and the face of the clutch pressure plate, thereby connect­
ing
engine
power to the transmission. Depressing
the clutch pedal actuates the clutch release shaft
fork
which
moves
the clutch release bearing against
the clutch fingers.
This,
in
turn,
moves
the pressure
plate away from the clutch disc. Since the disc is splined to the transmission input shaft, the clutch
disc and transmission input shaft
will
stop
when
the clutch is disengaged, thereby disconnecting
engine
power from the transmission.
1-2.
Clutch
Maintenance

To
obtain normal life and satisfactory performance
from any clutch it must be correctly operated and
properly maintained. Two conditions which shorten
clutch life are continuous operation of the clutch
release bearing and clutch slippage.
The
clutch release bearing is
designed
for inter­
mittent use. If run continuously the bearing
lubri­

cant
will
become
exhausted causing the bearing to
become
dry, noisy, or
will
seize, resulting in clutch
finger or diaphragm wear. The clutch must be properly adjusted so that the release bearing is
free of the clutch fingers or diaphragm at all times,

except
when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Excessive
clutch slippage
often
occurs when the
vehicle is overloaded, the vehicle load is applied
too quickly, or when the pressure of the clutch fingers or diaphragm is only partially applied to the clutch plate.
Friction
between
the clutch facing

and
flywheel produces
excessive
heat causing
burned,
glazed and worn linings, resulting in shortened clutch life. Avoid clutch slippage under
heavy loads by using a lower gear or reducing the load.
1-3.
Clutch
Pedal
Linkage
and Adjustment

Adjust
the clutch pedal free travel whenever the clutch
does
not
disengage
properly, or when new
clutch parts are installed. Improper adjustment of
the clutch pedal free travel is one of the
most
fre­
quent causes of clutch failure and can be a con­ tributing factor in
some
transmission failures.

As
the clutch facings wear the free travel of the clutch pedal diminishes. When sufficient wear oc­

curs
the pedal clearance must be adjusted.

Two
types
of clutch linkage have
been
used on Jeep vehicles, a cross shaft
tube
and lever
type

shown in Fig. 1-1, and a clutch control cable
type

shown in Fig. 1-2. The clutch pedal adjustment
procedures for both
type
linkages are as follows.
•
Cross
Shaft
Lever
and Tube Type

Refer
to Fig. 1-1.

Note:
Two different
Clutch
Control
Lever
and

Tube
Assemblies have
been
installed on 'Jeep*

Universal
vehicles equipped with a V-6
engine
and

T14A
transmission.
Should difficulty in shifting the transmission be
noted, check the length of the clutch release pedal
rod,
item (16) in Fig. 1-1. Measure the distance

between
the centerlines of the cotter key holes.

FIG.
1-2—CLUTCH
LINKAGE AND
ADJUSTMENT,

CONTROL
CABLE TYPE

A—Top
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Fork
1—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Fork)

2—
Clutch
Fork

3—
Ball
Adjusting Nut
4—
Lock
Nut 5—
Clutch
Cable

B—Side
View,
Cable
to
Clutch
Pedal 6—
Clutch
Cable
Support
Bracket
7—
Clutch
Cable
Housing
8—
Anchor
Bracket-to-Frame Side
Rail

9—
Retracting
Spring
(Clutch
Pedal)

10—Clutch
Pedal Assembly
*
© © ©
1437S
226

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
correct distance should be 10%"
[26,04
cm.].

If
the length of the clutch release pedal rod is
other than
10
W
[26,04
cm.], the vheicle is equipped with the early
type
Clutch
Control
Lever

and
Tube Assembly, which should be removed, and^trie latest
designed
parts should be installed.

The
free pedal clearance is adjusted by lengthening
or shortening the" clutch fork cable. To make this adjustment,
loosen
the jam nut on the cable clevis

and
lengthen or shorten the cable to obtain %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel at the pedal pad, then
tighten the jam unit.
•
Clutch
Control Cable Type

Refer
to Fig. 1-2.

a.
With the clutch pedal pad against the floor
panel, (pedal up, clutch
engaged)
adjust ball ad­
justing nut until slack is removed from the cable
and
the clutch throwout bearing contacts the clutch
pressure plate, release levers or diaphragm plate.
b. Back-off ball adjusting nut 2
V2
turns to obtain
approximately %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel.
Lock

hex nut.
FIG.

1-3—AUBURN
CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY —
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE 1—
Driven
Plate and Hub
2—
Pressure
Plate

3—
Pivot Pin
4—
Bracket
5—
Spring
Cup 6—
Pressure
Spring 7— Release
Lever

8—
Return
Spring
9—
Adjusting
Screw
10—
Jam
Nut 11—
Washer
Note:
Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may
develop
side

movement
of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One way to
compensate
for this wear is to install a pedal

slack
adjuster kit 1-4.
CLUTCH
—
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
•
Auburn
Vehicles equipped with the Hurricane F4
engine

have a 9.25" [23,4 cm.] driven plate. The auburn clutch driving (pressure) plate assembly (Fig. 1-3)
has three pressure springs and three levers or
fingers.
1-5.
Clutch
Removal

When
necessary to remove the clutch,
follow
the procedures outlined in Section J for the removal
of the transmission and transfer case from the vehicle. Then remove the flywheel housing and use
the following procedures for removing the clutch assembly.

Note:
The F4
engine
may be removed from the
vehicle when inspecting or replacing the clutch.
Refer
to Section D for Hurricane F4
engine
re­moval and then
follow
the instructions given
below

to remove the clutch assembly.

a.
Mark
the clutch pressure plate and
engine
fly­
wheel with a center punch so the clutch assembly
may be installed in the same position after adjust­

ments
or replacement are completed.
b. Remove the clutch pressure plate bracket
bolts

equally, a little at a time, to prevent distortion and
to relieve the clutch springs evenly.
c. Remove the pressure plate assembly and driven
plate from the flywheel.
1-6.
Clutch
Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection
Inspect the pressure plate face for
cracks,
chips,

and
warpage.
Check
the pressure plate levers for
excessive
wear and the springs for breaks. If any of the
above
conditions exist, the
complete
pressure
plate must be replaced.
Check
the clutch disc for

excessive
wear,
loose
or damaged facings, broken
vibration damper springs and evidence of grease
or oil. If any of the
above
conditions exist, replace
the clutch disc.
1-7.
Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment —
Auburn
The
clutch pressure plate must be checked
before
installing a new or reconditioned clutch. The proper 11339

FIG.
1-4—CHECKING
AUBURN
CLUTCH
LEVER
ADJUSTMENT
1— Adjustment Gauge
2—
Fixture
Mounting Bolt

3—
Clutch
Fixture
227

CLUTCH

©—*

11378

FIG.
1-5—ADJUSTING
AUBURN
CLUTCH
LEVERS

1—
Gauge
5—Mounting Bolt

2—
Clutch
Lever
6—Clutch
Pressure
Plate

3—
Adjusting
Screw
7—Thickness
Spacer

4—
Locknut
8—Clutch
Adjusting
Fixture
spacer thickness and
gauge
length is listed in

Par.
1-30. Use
Clutch
Adjusting Fixture W-296
and
proceed as follows:

a.
Place the thickness spacers
between
the pressure
plate face and clutch adjusting fixture. Locate the spacers under the pressure plate levers and at the
center of the pressure plate face, see Fig. 1-5.
b. With the spacers properly installed, bolt the
pressure plate to the adjusting fixture.
Draw
the

bolts
down evenly a little at a time until they are
tight.
c. Using the proper
gauge
length check the lever adjustment as shown in Fig. 1-4.

d.
Lever
adjustment can be altered by removing
the lever clips, loosening the locknut and turning
the adjusting screw (Fig. 1-5) in or out as required.
FIG.
1-6—REMOVING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Flywheel

2—
Pilot
Bushing

3—
Pilot
Bushing Remover 1-8. Pilot Bushing Inspection and Replacement

•
F4 and V-6 Engine.
Inspect the transmission main shaft pilot bushing

which
is pressed into the center of the flywheel on
the Hurricane F4
engine
and in the center of the
crankshaft
on the Dauntless V-6 engine. If the bushing is worn or damaged, it should be removed,
using a pilot bushing remover. Screw the tapered end of the tool into the damaged bushing, allowing
the tool to cut its own threads until a solid grip is obtained. Insert the puller screw and rotate it
until
bushing is forced out of flywheel, Fig. 1-6 or

crankshaft.

To
install a new bushing, slide the bushing
onto

the end of a pilot bushing installing and burnishing tool and insert the bushing into flywheel or
crank­
shaft. A
soft
hammer can be used against the tool
to help drive the bushing in place. When the tool
is removed (by tightening the cap and pressure
nut as shown in Fig. 1-7), the bushing
will
be
burnished
to correct size. Apply a small amount of

lubricant
to the bushing bore.
FIG.
1-7—INSTALLING
PILOT
BUSHING
1—
Pilot
Bushing
Installing
and
Burnishing
Tool

2—
Flywheel
1-9.
Clutch
Installation

a.
Inspect
Clutch
Disc
Before the clutch disc is installed, it should be
carefully
inspected for warpage. If grease or oil is evident on the friction facings, the facings should
be replaced and the cause of oil accumulation cor­ rected. Excessively worn facings should also be
replaced with factory recommended parts.
b. Inspect
Clutch
Release Bearing and Sleeve

The
clutch release bearing and
sleeve
are attached to the front facing of the transmission case by a

spring.
Check
the bearing and
sleeve
for evidence
of grease leaks from within the bearing or for wear

and
looseness.
Replace parts as necessary. 228

CLUTCH

is deeply scored or grooved, the part should be

replaced.

b. Inspect driven plate for wear or damage to fac­
ings,
loose
rivets, broken or
loose
torsion springs,

and
flattened cushion springs. If facings are worn
near
rivets or are oily, replace the plate assembly.

A
slight amount of oil on clutch facings
will
cause

clutch
grab and chatter; excessive oil on facings

will
cause slippage. It is not practical to remove
oil
with solvents or by buffing since oil
will
con­
tinue to bleed from facing material when hot. If
oil
is found on driven plate facings, examine trans­
mission drainback hole, pilot bushing,
engine
rear

main
bearing and other points of possible oil leakage. Test the fit of driven plate hub on trans­
mission main drive gear for an easy sliding fit.
c. Inspect clutch release bearing for scoring or ex­ cessive wear on front contact face. Test for rough­

ness
of balls and races by pressing and turning
front race slowly. Inspect main drive gear pilot
bushing in crankshaft. Replace bushing if it is rough or worn. Regardless of whether the old plate

or
a new plate is to be installed, check the plate
for runout. Slide the driven plate, front side first,
over the transmission main drive gear shaft so that

it
is tight on the spline. Index a
dial
indicator to the plate facing as shown in
Fig.
1-9. While holding

firmly
against front end of main drive gear, to take up play in main drive gear bearing, slowly
rotate driven plate and observe the amount of
run­

out shown by indicator. If runout of front facing
exceeds
.025" [0,635 mm.], replace the plate. It
is not practical to correct excessive runout by bending. 12769

FIG.
1-9—RUNOUT
CHECK
—
CLUTCH
PLATE
1—
Front
Facing
(Flywheel
Side)

2—
Dial
Indicator
Set
d.
Check
clutch pilot bushing for excessive wear

or
damage. Replace pilot bushing, if necessary, with

special
removal and installation
tools.
(See
Figs.

1-6 and 1-7). 1-13.
SERVICING
CLUTCH
PRESSURE
PLATE
AND

DISC
—
BORG
&
BECK
V6
(Late
Models)

The
Borg & Beck clutch is a single plate, dry disk
type. It provides smooth
engagement
of
engine
power to the wheels. The clutch consists of a pres­

sure
plate assembly with pressure springs and
release levers, and driven plate assembly. The
driven
plate assembly
uses
spring center vibration
neutralizes and two flexible facings.

The
clutch driven plate is spring cushioned with a facing riveted to both sides. The coil springs around
the hub absorb the power shocks and cushion the

driving
mechanism. The clutch throw-out bearing is of the
ball
type, packed at time of manufacture,

and
requires no further lubrication.
No adjustment for wear is provided in the clutch itself. An individual adjustment is built into the
clutch
cover to adjust the height of the release
levers.
This
adjusting nut is locked in position

and
should never be disturbed unless the clutch assembly has been disassembled for the replace­
ment of worn parts or to correct the height of the release levers.

When
the clutch pedal is depressed (disengaged),
the release bearing is moved toward the flywheel
and
contacts the inner ends of the release levers.

Each
lever is pivoted on a floating pin which re­
mains stationary in the lever and rolls across a short flat portion of the enlarged
hole
in the eye-
bolt. The outer ends of the
eyebolts
extend
through
holes
in the stamped cover and are fitted

with
adjusting nuts to secure the levers in the
correct
position. The outer ends of the release levers

engage
the pressure plate lugs by means of ful-
crums,
which provide knife-edge contact
between

the outer ends of the levers and the lugs as shown
in
Fig.
I-10. 12190

FIG.
MO—CLUTCH
LEVER
POSITIONS
A—Clutch
Engaged
B—Clutch
Disengaged 1-14.
Clutch
Pressure Plate Adjustment

The
clutch pressure plate adjustment must be
checked before installing a new or reconditioned

clutch.
The proper spacer thickness and
gage
length for a particular clutch is listed in Par. 1-30.
Use
Clutch
Adjusting
Fixture
W-296. If the W-296
fixture is not available one can be fabricated as
described in Par. 1-26. 230