Cable JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G User Guide

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals. Repositioning the pedals
does not change the effort required for actuation.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor. The
pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes the
position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable (Fig. 52).
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal. The accel-
erator pedal adjustment screw is turned by a flexible
shaft slaved off the brake adjustment screw.
Neither the pedal drive motor nor drive mecha-
nism are subject to the mechanical stress of brake or
accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
²Memory: An optional memory feature is avail-
able. This allows storing of one or two preferred
pedal positions in the Adjustable Pedal Module
(APM). A preferred position can be stored and
recalled using the door-mounted switches. A stored
pedal position can be recalled (but not stored)
using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE).
²
Adjustable Pedal Feedback Message: The Elec-
tronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) will display
a message when the APS is disabled. ie:9Adjustable
Pedal Disabled - Cruise Control Engaged9or9Adjust-
able Pedal Disabled - Vehicle in Reverse9.
²Damage Prevention: Foot pressure or debris
can stall pedal adjustment. In order to avoid dam-
age to system components during pedal adjust-
ment, the APM will monitor pedal position sensor
voltage. If the APM does not detect expected volt-
age change within 1.5 seconds, it will cut power to
the adjustable pedal motor.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which moves the
booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod
depresses the master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Remove retainer clip that holds booster to
pedal pin (Fig. 53).
Fig. 52 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS ASSEMBLY
1 - HARNESS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
3 - CABLE
4 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
7 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
8 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MODULE
Fig. 53 Push Rod Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)

(2) Remove nut from pedal shaft.
(3) Slide pedal shaft out and remove brake pedal.
(4) Remove pedal bushings (Fig. 54) if they are to
be replaced.
REMOVAL - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
NOTE: If possible put the pedals in the full forward
position.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the module electrical connector.
(5) Remove the brake light switch.
(6) Disconnect the booster rod clip (Fig. 53).
(7) Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
pedal.
(8) Lock the steering wheel into place.
(9) Remove the lower steering shaft pinch bolt
(Fig. 56).
(10) Separate the lower shaft coupler and push for-
ward (Fig. 56).
(11) Remove the two pedal bracket upper nuts
(Fig. 55).
(12) Remove the brake booster nuts (Fig. 56).
(13) Remove the accelerator pedal nuts (Fig. 57).(14) Remove the ICU mounting bracket nuts and
bolts and move the ICU and booster forward this will
allow enough clearance to remove the adjustable
pedal bracket from over the booster push rod.
(15) Remove the pedal from the vehicle (Fig. 56).
(16) Transfer the module if needed.
Fig. 54 Pedal Bushings
1 - BUSHING
2 - BUSHING
3 - SHAFT NUT
4 - PEDAL SHAFT
Fig. 55 UPPER MOUNTING NUTS
1 - UPPER MOUNTING STUDS
2 - ACCELERATOR MOUNTING STUDS
3 - UPPER MOUNTING NUT
4 - MOTOR
5 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
Fig. 56 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
1 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
2 - STEERING COLUMN
3 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
4 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MOUNTING BRACKET
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET
7 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
(4)
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
PEDAL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Lubricate bushings, pedal shaft and pedal pin
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(2) Install bushings into pedal.
(3) Position pedal in bracket and install pedal
shaft in support and through pedal.
(4) Install new nut on pedal shaft and tighten to
27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Pedal shaft nut should not be reused.
(5) Install booster push rod on pedal pin and
install retainer clip on pedal pin.
(6) Check and adjust stop lamp switch if necessary.
INSTALLATION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
(1) Install the pedal to the vehicle (Fig. 56).
(2) Reposition the ICU and booster, Install the
ICU mounting bracket nuts and bolts.
28 N
(3) Install the brake booster nuts. Tighten to 28
N´m ( 21 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 56).
(4) Install the pedal bracket upper nuts. Tighten
to 12 N´m ( 9 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 56).
(5) Install the accelerator pedal nuts. Tighten to
28 N´m ( 21 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 57).
(6) Install the lower steering shaft coupler over the
shaft (Fig. 56).
(7) Install the lower steering shaft pinch bolt (Fig.
56).
(8) Unlock the steering wheel.
(9) Reconnect the accelerator cable to the pedal
(Fig. 56).(10) Reconnect the booster rod clip (Fig. 56).
(11) Install the brake light switch.
(12) Reconnect the module electrical connector.
(13) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(14) Install the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
PEDAL MOTOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the two mounting screws (Fig. 58).
(5) Disconnect the electrical connector (Fig. 58).
(6) Remove the adjustable pedal motor (Fig. 58).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the adjustable pedal motor (Fig. 58).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector (Fig. 58).
(3) Install the two mounting screws (Fig. 58).
(4) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 57 ACCELERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
1 - ACCELERATOR MOUNTING NUTS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS BRACKET
3 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Fig. 58 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MOTOR
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - PEDALS MOTOR
3 - MOUNTING SCREWS HOLES
5 - 28 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)

(5) Install the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fittingat one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 59) .
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).
Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE ROTOR
NOTE: If a new rotor is installed it must be match
mounted to the hub/bearing.
(1) Install rotor on hub studs in its original loca-
tion.
(2) Install the caliper anchor assembly on the
knuckle. Install anchor bolts and tighten to 90-115
N´m (66-85 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and
brake shoes. Do not move vehicle until firm brake
pedal is obtained.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
(1) Install rotor on axle studs.
(2) Install the caliper anchor assembly.
(3) Install anchor bolts and tighten to 90-115 N´m
(66-85 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(6) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brake shoes are seated.
PARKING BRAKE
OPERATION
The parking brakes operated by a automatic ten-
sioner mechanism built into the hand lever and cable
system. The front cable is connected to the hand
lever and the equalizer. The rear cables attached to
the equalizer and the parking brake shoe actuator.
A set of drum type brake shoes are used for park-
ing brakes. The shoes are mounted to the rear disc
brake adaptor. The parking brake drum is integrated
into the rear disc brake rotor.
Parking brake cable adjustment is controlled by an
automatic tensioner mechanism. The only adjust-
ment if necessary is to the park brake shoes if the
linings are worn.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARKING BRAKE
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is controlled by an
automatic cable tensioner and does not require
adjustment. The only adjustment that may be nec-
essary would be to the park brake shoes if they are
worn.
The parking brake switch is in circuit with the red
warning lamp in the dash. The switch will cause the
lamp to illuminate only when the parking brakes are
applied. If the lamp remains on after parking brake
release, the switch or wires are faulty.
If the red lamp comes on a fault has occurred in
the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
If the red warning lamp and yellow warning lamp
come on, the electronic brake distribution may be at
fault.
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/won't
hold), can be traced to a parking brake component.
NOTE: The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the park-
ing brake shoes and the shoe braking surface.
Excessive clearance is a result of lining and/or
drum wear, drum surface machined oversize.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brake shoes, improper brake shoe
adjustment, or improperly assembled brake parts.
A too loose condition can also be caused by inoper-
ative or improperly assembled parking brake shoe
parts.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²Brake shoe wear
²Drum surface (in rear rotor) machined oversize
²Front cable not secured to lever
²Rear cable not attached to actuator
²Rear cable seized
²Parking brake lever not seated
²Parking brake lever bind
5 - 34 BRAKES - BASEWJ
ROTORS (Continued)

CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(1) Remove center console,(Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Lift up rear seat and carpet covering the park-
ing brake cables.
(3) Place a screw driver through the front cable
eyelet (Fig. 66) and pry back on the front cable.
(4) Have an assistant pry down the lock out spring
through the hole in the side of the park brake lever
(Fig. 67) with a small screw driver. Then slowly
release the front cable.
NOTE: Their should be slack in the cable if the lock
out spring is engaged.
(5) Disengage front cable end from the equalizer
(Fig. 68).
(6) Disengage front cable end from the parking
brake lever.
(7) Remove the front carpet,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove front cable retainer nuts (Fig. 69) from
the floor pan.
Fig. 66 Front Cable Eyelet
1 - REAR CABLES
2 - FRONT CABLE EYELET
3 - FRONT CABLE
4 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 67 Lock Out Spring
1 - LOCK OUT SPRING
Fig. 68 Cable Equalizer
1 - EQUALIZER
2 - FRONT CABLE
Fig. 69 Front Parking Brake Cable
1 - RETAINER NUT
2 - FLOOR PAN
3 - FRONT CABLE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 35

(9) Compress the cable retainers with a 13 mm
wrench (Fig. 70). Remove the cable from parking
brake lever bracket and equalizer bracket.
REMOVAL - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES
(1) Remove center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Lift up rear seat and carpet covering the park-
ing brake cables.
(3) Place a screw driver through the front cable
eyelet (Fig. 71) and pry back on the front cable.(4) Have an assistant pry down the lock out spring
through the hole in the side of the park brake lever
(Fig. 72) with a small screw driver. Then slowly
release the front cable.
NOTE: Their should be slack in the cable if the lock
out spring is engaged.
(5) Disengage rear cables ends from the equalizer.
(6) Compress the cable retainers with a 13 mm
wrench (Fig. 73) and remove the cable from equalizer
bracket.
Fig. 70 Brake Lever Bracket
1 - FRONT CABLE
2 - WRENCH
Fig. 71 Front Cable Eyelet
1 - REAR CABLES
2 - FRONT CABLE EYELET
3 - FRONT CABLE
4 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 72 Lock Out Spring
1 - LOCK OUT SPRING
Fig. 73 Cable Retainers
1 - CABLE RETAINER
2 - WRENCH
3 - FRONT CABLE
4 - REAR CABLES
5 - 36 BRAKES - BASEWJ
CABLES (Continued)

(7) Raise and support the vehicle.
(8) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(9) Remove the brake calipers, caliper anchors and
rotors.
(10) Remove the ABS sensor wiring harness (Fig.
74)from the rear brake cables.
(11) Remove the cable retainer bolts (Fig. 74) from
the rear spring pads.
(12) Pull the cables out of the upper suspension
arm brackets.
(13) Push the cable in and lift up the end of cable
with a small screw driver to disengage the cable from
the parking brake actuator (Fig. 75).
(14) Remove the cable from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(1) Install thecable into the parking brake lever
bracket and equalizer bracket.
(2) Install the front cable to the floor pan and
install retainer nuts.
(3) Engage the front cable ends to the parking
brake lever and equalizer.
(4) Install the front carpet, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Pull on the lever to release the lock out spring.
(6) Install the center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES
(1) Install the cables through the caliper anchor
mount. Then push the end of cable strand in to
engage the cable end to the parking brake actuator.
(2) Feed the other end of the cables through the
body and into the equalizer bracket (Fig. 76).
Fig. 74 Left Rear Parking Brake Cable
1 - CABLE BRACKET
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
4 - CABLE RETAINER
5 - ABS SENSOR WIRING
Fig. 75 Parking Brake
1 - CABLE END
2 - SCREW DRIVER
3 - PARKING BRAKE ACTUATOR
4 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 76 Equalizer Bracket
1 - EQUALIZER
2 - RIGHT REAR CABLE
3 - LEFT REAR CABLE
4 - FRONT CABLE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 37
CABLES (Continued)