Heat JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

(8) Engine starts must be possible with shifter
lever in PARK or NEUTRAL gate positions only.
Engine starts must not be possible in any other gate
positions other than PARK or NEUTRAL.
(9) With shifter lever handle push-button not
depressed and lever detent in:
²PARK position- apply forward force on center of
handle and remove pressure. Engine start must be
possible.
²PARK position- apply rearward force on center
of handle and remove pressure. Engine start must be
possible.
²NEUTRAL position- engine start must be possi-
ble.
²NEUTRAL position, engine running and brakes
applied- Apply forward force on center of shift han-
dle. Transmission should not be able to shift into
REVERSE detent.
FLUID AND FILTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EFFECTS OF
INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxi-
dation and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid
expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the
transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can eas-
ily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CAUSES OF
BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating
which has three primary causes.
(1) Internal clutch slippage, usually caused by low
line pressure, inadequate clutch apply pressure, or
clutch seal failure.
(2) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usu-
ally the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.(3) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not prop-
erly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer tow-
ing or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling sys-
tem, and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
²adding incorrect fluid
²failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when
checking level
²engine coolant entering the fluid
²internal failure that generates debris
²overheat that generates sludge (fluid break-
down)
²failure to reverse flush cooler and lines after
repair
²failure to replace contaminated converter after
repair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdraw-
ing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is gener-
ally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The transmission cooler and lines should be
reverse flushed whenever a malfunction generates
sludge and/or debris. The torque converter should
also be replaced at the same time.
Failure to flush the cooler and lines will result in
recontamination. Flushing applies to auxiliary cool-
ers as well. The torque converter should also be
replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and
debris. This is necessary because normal converter
flushing procedures will not remove all contami-
nants.
21 - 228 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK MECHANISM (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can inter-
fere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator opera-
tion. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the
transmission vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK)
and N (NEUTRAL) positions. Place the selector lever
in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is
accurate.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.At normal operating temperature(approximately 82 C. or 180 F.), the fluid level is cor-
rect if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on
the oil level indicator. The fluid level will be approx-
imately at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at
70É F fluid temperature.
NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at nor-
mal operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.
(2) Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approxi-
mately 2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into REVERSE for
approximately 2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into PARK.
(5)
Hook up DRBtscan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart. (Fig. 59)
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,
wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
(10) Check transmission for leaks.
Fig. 59 Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 229
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

STATOR
The stator assembly (Fig. 112) is mounted on a sta-
tionary shaft which is an integral part of the oil
pump. The stator is located between the impeller and
turbine within the torque converter case (Fig. 113).
The stator contains an over-running clutch, which
allows the stator to rotate only in a clockwise direc-
tion. When the stator is locked against the over-run-
ning clutch, the torque multiplication feature of the
torque converter is operational.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
The TCC (Fig. 114) was installed to improve the
efficiency of the torque converter that is lost to the
slippage of the fluid coupling. Although the fluid cou-
pling provides smooth, shock-free power transfer, it is
natural for all fluid couplings to slip. If the impeller
and turbine were mechanically locked together, a
zero slippage condition could be obtained. A hydraulic
piston with friction material was added to the tur-
bine assembly to provide this mechanical lock-up.
In order to reduce heat build-up in the transmission
and buffer the powertrain against torsional vibrations,
the TCM can duty cycle the L/R-CC Solenoid to achieve
a smooth application of the torque converter clutch.
This function, referred to as Electronically Modulated
Converter Clutch (EMCC) can occur at various times
depending on the following variables:
²Shift lever position
²Current gear range
²Transmission fluid temperature
²Engine coolant temperature
²Input speed
²Throttle angle
²Engine speed
Fig. 112 Stator Components
1 - CAM (OUTER RACE)
2 - ROLLER
3 - SPRING
4 - INNER RACE
Fig. 113 Stator Location
1-STATOR
2 - IMPELLER
3 - FLUID FLOW
4 - TURBINE
Fig. 114 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC)
1 - IMPELLER FRONT COVER
2 - THRUST WASHER ASSEMBLY
3 - IMPELLER
4-STATOR
5 - TURBINE
6 - PISTON
7 - FRICTION DISC
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 267
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)

SPARE TIRE
DESCRIPTION - SPARE / TEMPORARY TIRE
The temporary spare tire is designed for emer-
gency use only. The original tire should be repaired
or replaced at the first opportunity, then reinstalled.
Do not exceed speeds of 50 M.P.H. when using the
temporary spare tire. Refer to Owner's Manual for
complete details.
WHEELS
DESCRIPTION
The rim size is on the vehicle safety certification
label located on the drivers door shut face. The size
of the rim is determined by the drivetrain package.
Original equipment wheels/rims are designed for
operation up to the specified maximum vehicle capac-
ity.
All models use stamped steel, cast aluminum or
forged aluminum wheels. Every wheel has raised sec-
tions between the rim flanges and rim drop well
called safety humps (Fig. 18) .
Initial inflation of the tire forces the bead over
these raised sections. In case of rapid loss of air pres-
sure, the raised sections help hold the tire on the
wheel.
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. All aluminum and some steel wheels
have wheel stud nuts with an enlarged nose. This
enlarged nose is necessary to ensure proper retentionof the wheels. Do not use replacement studs or nuts
with a different design or lesser quality.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEEL
INSPECTION
Inspect wheels for:
²Excessive run out
²Dents or cracks
²Damaged wheel lug nut holes
²Air Leaks from any area or surface of the rim
NOTE: Do not attempt to repair a wheel by hammer-
ing, heating or welding.
If a wheel is damaged an original equipment
replacement wheel should be used. When obtaining
replacement wheels, they should be equivalent in
load carrying capacity. The diameter, width, offset,
pilot hole and bolt circle of the wheel should be the
same as the original wheel.
WARNING: FAILURE TO USE EQUIVALENT
REPLACEMENT WHEELS MAY ADVERSELY
AFFECT THE SAFETY AND HANDLING OF THE
VEHICLE. USED WHEELS ARE NOT RECOM-
MENDED. THE SERVICE HISTORY OF THE WHEEL
MAY HAVE INCLUDED SEVERE TREATMENT OR
VERY HIGH MILEAGE. THE RIM COULD FAIL WITH-
OUT WARNING.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
REPLACEMENT
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
chrome plated wheels.
Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and han-
dling of your vehicle.
To install the wheel, first position it properly on
the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
sequence to the proper torque specification.Never
use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Wheels must be replaced if they have:
²Excessive runout
Fig. 18 Safety Rim
1 - FLANGE
2 - RIDGE
3 - WELL
22 - 10 TIRES/WHEELSWJ

²Bent or dented
²Leak air through welds
²Have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or
welding are not allowed.
Original equipment wheels are available through
your dealer. Replacement wheels from any other
source should be equivalent in:
²Load carrying capacity
²Diameter
²Width²Offset
²Mounting configuration
Failure to use equivalent replacement wheels may
affect the safety and handling of your vehicle.
Replacement withusedwheels is not recommended.
Their service history may have included severe treat-
ment.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Lug Nut
1/2 X 20 with 60É Cone115-150 85-115 Ð
STUDS
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to remove wheel
studs.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake caliper, caliper adapter and
rotor,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove stud from hub with Remover C-4150A
(Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to remove wheel
studs.
(1) Install the new stud into the hub flange.
(2) Install the three washers onto the stud, then
install the lug nut with the flat side of the nut
against the washers.
(3) Tighten the lug nut until the stud is pulled
into the hub flange. Verify that the stud is properly
seated into the flange.
(4) Remove the lug nut and washers.
(5) Install the brake rotor, caliper adapter, and
caliper,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/ME-
CHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLA-
TION).(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly, use new
lug nut on stud or studs that were replaced.
(7) Remove the support and lower vehicle.Fig. 19 Wheel Stud Removal
1 - REMOVER
2 - WHEEL STUD
WJTIRES/WHEELS 22 - 11
WHEELS (Continued)

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)

EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL±FRONT DOOR...............25
REMOVAL±REAR DOOR................26
REMOVAL±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL.....26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION±FRONT DOOR...........26
INSTALLATION±REAR DOOR............26
INSTALLATION±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL . 26
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
D-PILLAR APPLIQUE
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
D-PILLAR AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................29
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HEADLAMP MOUNTING MODULE
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
LUGGAGE RACK
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................31
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
ROCK RAIL
REMOVAL.............................32
INSTALLATION.........................32
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL±FRONT DOOR
(1) Open the front door.
(2) Using a trim stick, pry the upper rear edge off
the door. Continue to the front edge of the front door
(Fig. 1).
(3) Using a heat gun, warm the adhesive tape on
the lower edge of the cladding and pull the cladding
from the door.
Fig. 1 Front Door Cladding
1 - CLADDING
WJEXTERIOR 23 - 25

REMOVAL±REAR DOOR
(1) Open the rear door.
(2) Using a trim stick, pry the upper rear edge off
the door. Continue towards the front edge of the rear
door (Fig. 2).
(3) Using a heat gun, warm the adhesive tape on
the bottom of the cladding and remove the cladding.
REMOVAL±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL
(1) Remove the screws at wheel opening (Fig. 3).
(2) Using a trim stick, gently pry bottom of clad-
ding up.
(3) Lift upwards and remove cladding.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION±FRONT DOOR
(1) Clean the area thoroughly with Mopar Super
Kleen, or equivalent.
(2) Align the body side cladding with the slots in
the door. Press the adhesive pad to the door and snap
the retainers into the slots.
INSTALLATION±REAR DOOR
(1) Clean the area thoroughly with Mopar Super
Kleen, or equivalent.
(2) Align the body side cladding with the slots in
the door. Press the adhesive pad to the door and snap
the retainers into the slots.
INSTALLATION±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL
(1) Thoroughly clean the area with Mopar Super
Kleen or equivalent.
(2) Align the cladding with the screw holes in the
fender.
(3) Press the cladding in place.
(4) Install the screws at the wheel opening.
Fig. 2 Rear Door Cladding
1 - CLADDING
Fig. 3 Front Fender/ Quarter Panel
1 - SCREW
2 - QUARTER PANEL CLADDING
3 - FRONT FENDER CLADDING
4 - SCREW
23 - 26 EXTERIORWJ
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS (Continued)

EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating emblem.
(3) Insert a plastic trim stick or a hard wood
wedge behind the emblem to separate the adhesive
backing from the body.
(4) Clean adhesive residue from body with MOPAR
Super Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of emblem.
(2) Position emblem properly on body.(3) Press emblem firmly to body with palm of
hand.
(4) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating emblem.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Using a wax crayon or equivalent, mark posi-
tion of fender.
(2) Remove front fender liner.
(3) Pull back fascia and remove screws attaching
fender to fascia.
(4) Remove screws attaching lower fender bracket
located behind fascia.
(5) Remove screws attaching fender to rocker
panel (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove screws attaching rear of fender to
A-pillar brackets.
(7) Open hood.
Fig. 6 Fender Mounting
1 - BODY
2 - FENDER
23 - 28 EXTERIORWJ

(4) Remove the screws attaching the supports to
the roof panel.
(5) Separate the supports from the roof panel.
NOTE: If a crossbar needs to be serviced, the for-
ward or rearward supports will have to be removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the supports on the roof panel and
install the screw. Be sure that the gasket is properly
seated.
(2) Position the luggage rack on the supports.
(3) Install the screws attaching the side rails to
the supports.
(4) Position the supports covers on the supports
and press into place.
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) With damaged mirror still on vehicle, position
mirror glass down and centered.
(2) Position a wide leverage device between the
bottom edge of the glass and the mirror shell.
(3) Firmly apply pressure in an upward direction
until glass assembly disengages from adapter plate.
(4) Disconnect the heater wire terminal, if
equipped, or the EC plug, if equipped.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the heater wire terminal or the EC
plug, if equipped.
(2) Position the replacement glass in the mirror
shell and align the four snap tabs with the four cav-
ities in the shell.
(3) Apply firm pressure inward until the replace-
ment glass assembly engages with the adapter plate.
Correct assembly will result in a firm click. Glass
assembly should exhibit even gaps to the shell when
complete.
(4) Pull lightly on corners of glass assembly to
ensure all four snaps are engaged and there is no
free play.
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove door trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
(2) Disengage power mirror harness connector, if
equipped.
(3) Remove mirror flag seal.
(4) Remove nuts attaching mirror to door (Fig. 11).
(5) Separate mirror from door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position mirror on door. Verify that gasket seal
is properly positioned.
(2) Install nuts attaching mirror to door (Fig. 11).
(3) Install mirror retaining nuts.
(4) Install mirror flag seal.
(5) Engage power mirror harness connector, if
equipped.
(6) Install door trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 11 Side View Mirror
1 - SIDEVIEW MIRROR
2 - MIRROR FLAG SEAL
3 - CONNECTOR
WJEXTERIOR 23 - 31
LUGGAGE RACK (Continued)