Serpentine JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

(11) While the vehicle is in park, use the DRB III
to activate the hydraulic fan to full fan operation and
briefly rev the engine up to 3000 rpm to fully engage
the hydraulic fan.
(12) Check the fluid level add if necessary.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4.0L ENGINE
(1) Remove serpentine drive belt,(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove pressure and return hoses from pump
and drain the pump.
(3)
Loosen the pump bracket bolt at the engine block.
(4) Remove 3 pump mounting bolts (Fig. 4)
through pulley access holes.
(5) Tilt pump downward and remove from engine.
(6) Remove pulley from pump.
REMOVAL - 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Remove the serpentine drive belt,(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the pressure and return hoses from
pump and drain pump.
(3) Remove 3 pump mounting bolts through pulley
access holes (Fig. 5).
(4) Remove the pump from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4.0L ENGINE
(1) Install pulley on pump.
(2) Install pump on the engine mounting bracket.
(3) Install 3 pump mounting bolts and tighten to
27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(4) Tighten pump bracket bolt to 57 N´m (42 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Install the pressure line on the pump and
tighten to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the return hoses on pump.
(7) Install the drive belt,(Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Add power steering fluid,(Refer to 19 - STEER-
ING/PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Position the pump on the left cylinder head
and install bolts through pulley access holes. Tighten
bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the pressure and return hoses to pump.
(3) Install serpentine drive belt,(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Add power steering fluid,(Refer to 19 - STEER-
ING/PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 4 PUMP MOUNTING ± 4.0L
1 - PUMP ASSEMBLY
2 - PUMP BRACKET
Fig. 5 Pump Mounting
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - PUMP
19 - 34 PUMPWJ
PUMP (Continued)

INSTALLATION
NOTE: The pulley is marked front for installation.
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with the 4.0L or
4.7L, Do not reuse the old power steering pump
pulley it is not intended for reuse. A new pulley
must be installed if removed.
(1) Replace pulley if bent, cracked, or loose.
(2) Install pulley on pump with Installer C-4063-B
or equivalent installer (Fig. 15). The front edge of the
pulley hub must be flush with the end of the shaft.
Ensure the tool and pulley are aligned with the
pump shaft.(3) Install pump assembly.
(4) With Serpentine Belt, run engine until warm (5
min.) and note any belt chirp. If chirp exists, move
pulley outward approximately 0.5 mm (0.020 in.). If
noise increases, press on 1.0 mm (0.040 in.).Be
careful that pulley does not contact mounting
bolts.
RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove power steering pump.
(2) Clean exterior of pump.
(3) Clamp the pump body in a soft jaw vice.
NOTE: Use new retaining clips for installation.
(4) Pry up tab and slide the retaining clips off (Fig.
16).
(5) Remove fluid reservoir from pump body.
Remove and discard O-ring seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new O-ring Seal with Mopar Power
Steering Fluid or equivalent.
(2) Install O-ring seal in housing.
(3) Install reservoir onto housing.
(4) Slide and tap innewreservoir retainer clips
until tab locks to housing.
(5) Install power steering pump.
(6) Add power steering fluid,(Refer to 19 - STEER-
ING/PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 14 Pulley Removal
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP DRIVE PULLEY
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4333
Fig. 15 Pulley Installation
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP DRIVE PULLEY
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4063±B
Fig. 16 Pump Reservoir Clips
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - RETAINING CLIPS
19 - 42 PUMPWJ
PULLEY (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE
Before performing the following tests, refer to Cool-
ing for the procedures to check the radiator coolant
level, serpentine drive belt tension, radiator air flow
and the radiator fan operation. Also be certain that
the accessory vacuum supply line is connected at the
engine intake manifold for the manual temperature
control system.
MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT
Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core
through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at
normal operating temperature, set the temperature
control knob in the full hot position, the mode control
switch knob in the floor heat position, and the blower
motor switch knob in the highest speed position.
Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of
the air being discharged at the HVAC housing floor
outlets. Compare the test thermometer reading to the
Temperature Reference chart.
Temperature Reference
Ambient Air Temperature15.5É C
(60É F)21.1É C
(70É F)26.6É C
(80É F)32.2É C
(90É F)
Minimum Air Temperature at
Floor Outlet62.2É C
(144É F)63.8É C
(147É F)65.5É C
(150É F)67.2É C
(153É F)
If the floor outlet air temperature is too low, refer
to Cooling to check the engine coolant temperature
specifications. Both of the heater hoses should be hot
to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should
be slightly cooler than the coolant supply heater
hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the sup-
ply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow
obstruction in the cooling system. Refer to Cooling
for the procedures.
OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW
Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant
flow:
²Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
²Improper heater hose routing.
²Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports
at the cooling system connections.
²A plugged heater core.
If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is
verified, and heater outlet air temperature is still
low, a mechanical problem may exist.
MECHANICAL PROBLEMS
Possible locations or causes of insufficient heat:
²An obstructed cowl air intake.
²Obstructed heater system outlets.
²A blend door not functioning properly.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If the heater outlet air temperature cannot be
adjusted with the temperature control knob(s) on the
A/C Heater control panel, the following could require
service:
²The A/C heater control.
²The blend door actuator(s).
²The wire harness circuits for the A/C heater con-
trol or the blend door actuator(s).²The blend door(s).
²Improper engine coolant temperature.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DIODE
REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery
cable.
(2) Locate the diode in the harness, and remove
the protective covering.
(3) Remove the diode from the harness, pay atten-
tion to the current flow direction (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove the insulation from the wires in the
harness. Only remove enough insulation to solder in
the new diode.
Fig. 3 DIODE IDENTIFICATION
1 - CURRENT FLOW
2 - BAND AROUND DIODE INDICATES CURRENT FLOW
3 - DIODE AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS
24 - 6 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONINGWJ
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)

A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The compressor clutch assembly consists of a sta-
tionary electromagnetic coil, a hub bearing and pul-
ley assembly, and a clutch plate (Fig. 4). The
electromagnetic coil unit and the hub bearing and
pulley assembly are each retained on the nose of the
compressor front housing with snap rings. The clutch
plate is keyed to the compressor shaft and secured
with a bolt.
OPERATION
The compressor clutch components provide the
means to engage and disengage the compressor from
the engine serpentine accessory drive belt. When the
clutch coil is energized, it magnetically draws the
clutch into contact with the pulley and drives the
compressor shaft. When the coil is not energized, the
pulley freewheels on the clutch hub bearing, which is
part of the pulley. The compressor clutch and coil are
the only serviced parts on the compressor.
The compressor clutch engagement is controlled by
several components: the a/c switch on the a/c heater
control panel, the Automatic Zone Control (AZC) con-
trol module (if the vehicle is so equipped), the evap-
orator probe, the a/c high pressure transducer, the
a/c compressor clutch relay, the body control module
(BCM) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The PCM may delay compressor clutch engagement
for up to thirty seconds. Refer to Electronic Control
Modules for more information on the PCM controls.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to the
appropriate wiring diagrams. The battery must be
fully-charged before performing the following tests.
Refer to Battery for more information.
(1) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale) in
series with the clutch coil terminal. Use a voltmeter
(0 to 20 volt scale) with clip-type leads for measuring
the voltage across the battery and the compressor
clutch coil.
(2) With the a/c heater mode control switch in any
a/c mode, the a/c heater control a/c switch in the ON
position, and the blower motor switch in the lowest
speed position, start the engine and run it at normal
idle.
(3) The compressor clutch coil voltage should read
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage. If there is
voltage at the clutch coil, but the reading is not
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage, test the clutch
coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop and repair
as required. If there is no voltage reading at the
clutch coil, use a DRBIIItscan tool and the appro-
priate diagnostic information for testing of the com-
pressor clutch circuit. The following components
must be checked and repaired as required before you
can complete testing of the clutch coil:
²Fuses in the junction block and the Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC)
²A/C heater mode control switch
²A/C compressor clutch relay
²A/C high pressure transducer
²A/C evaporator probe
²Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
²Body Control Module (BCM)
(4) The compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the
current draw measured at the clutch coil is 2.0 to 3.9
amperes with the electrical system voltage at 11.5 to
12.5 volts. This should only be checked with the work
area temperature at 21É C (70É F). If system voltage
is more than 12.5 volts, add electrical loads by turn-
ing on electrical accessories until the system voltage
drops below 12.5 volts.
(a) If the clutch coil current reading is four
amperes or more, the coil is shorted and should be
replaced.
(b) If the clutch coil current reading is zero, the
coil is open and should be replaced.
Fig. 4 COMPRESSOR CLUTCH - TYPICAL
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - SHAFT KEY
3 - PULLEY
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
WJCONTROLS 24 - 13

STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty
times (five seconds on, then five seconds off). During
this procedure, set the A/C Heater control in the
Recirculation Mode, the A/C button in the on posi-
tion, the blower motor switch in the highest speed
position, and the engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm.
This procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing
friction surfaces and provide a higher compressor
clutch torque capability.
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to
Cooling for the procedures.
(3) Remove the bolt that secures the compressor
clutch to the compressor shaft (Fig. 5). A band-type
oil filter wrench may be used to secure the clutch
during bolt removal.
(4) Tap the clutch plate with a plastic mallet to
release it from the splines on the compressor shaft.
Remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from the com-
pressor shaft (Fig. 6).
CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate
assembly and the pulley to remove it from the com-
pressor shaft. Prying may damage the clutch plate
assembly.(5) Remove the external snap ring that secures the
compressor clutch pulley to the nose of the compres-
sor front housing with snap ring pliers (Special Tool
C-4574) and slide the pulley assembly off of the com-
pressor (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch
coil lead wire harness on the compressor front hous-
ing.
Fig. 5 COMPRESSOR SHAFT BOLT
1 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE
2 - COMPRESSOR SHAFT BOLT
Fig. 6 CLUTCH PLATE AND SHIM(S)
1 - COMPRESSOR SHAFT
2 - CLUTCH PLATE
3 - CLUTCH PLATE SHIM
Fig. 7 PULLEY SNAP RING
1 - SNAP RING
24 - 14 CONTROLSWJ
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)

The high pressure relief valve vents only enough
refrigerant to reduce the system pressure, and then
re-seats itself. The majority of the refrigerant is con-
served in the system. If the valve vents refrigerant, it
does not mean that the valve is faulty.
The high pressure relief valve is a factory-cali-
brated unit. The valve cannot be adjusted or
repaired, and must not be removed or otherwise dis-
turbed. The valve is only serviced as a part of the
compressor assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
NOISE
When investigating an air conditioning related
noise, you must first know the conditions under
which the noise occurs. These conditions include:
weather, vehicle speed, transmission in gear or neu-
tral, engine speed, engine temperature, and any
other special conditions. Noises that develop during
air conditioning operation can often be misleading.
For example: What sounds like a failed front bearing
or connecting rod, may be caused by loose bolts, nuts,
mounting brackets, or a loose compressor clutch
assembly.
Drive belts are speed sensitive. At different engine
speeds and depending upon belt tension, belts can
develop noises that are mistaken for a compressor
noise. Improper belt tension can cause a misleading
noise when the compressor clutch is engaged, which
may not occur when the compressor clutch is disen-
gaged. Check the serpentine drive belt condition and
tension as described in Cooling before beginning this
procedure.
(1) Select a quiet area for testing. Duplicate the
complaint conditions as much as possible. Switch the
compressor on and off several times to clearly iden-
tify the compressor noise. Listen to the compressor
while the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Probe
the compressor with an engine stethoscope or a long
screwdriver with the handle held to your ear to bet-
ter localize the source of the noise.
(2) Loosen all of the compressor mounting hard-
ware and retighten. Tighten the compressor clutch
mounting nut. Be certain that the clutch coil is
mounted securely to the compressor, and that the
clutch plate and pulley are properly aligned and have
the correct air gap. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH - INSTALLATION)
(3) To duplicate a high-ambient temperature condi-
tion (high head pressure), restrict the air flow
through the condenser. Install a manifold gauge set
to be certain that the discharge pressure does not
exceed 2760 kPa (400 psi).
(4) Check the refrigerant system plumbing for
incorrect routing, rubbing or interference, which cancause unusual noises. Also check the refrigerant lines
for kinks or sharp bends that will restrict refrigerant
flow, which can cause noises. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAU-
TION - REFRIGERANT HOSES/LINES/TUBES
PRECAUTIONS)
(5) If the noise is from opening and closing of the
high pressure relief valve, reclaim, evacuate, and
recharge the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT RECOVERY)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIG-
ERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)If the high pressure relief valve still
does not seat properly, replace the a/c compressor.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL)
(6) If the noise is from liquid slugging on the suc-
tion line, check the refrigerant oil level and the
refrigerant system charge. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGER-
ANT OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
SPECIFICATIONS - CHARGE CAPACITY).
(7) If the noise continues, replace the compressor
and repeat Step 1.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
The compressor may be removed and repositioned
without disconnecting the refrigerant lines or dis-
charging the refrigerant system. Discharging is not
necessary if servicing the compressor clutch or clutch
coil, the engine, the cylinder head, or the generator.
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
(1) Recover the refrigerant from the system. (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT
RECOVERY)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to
Cooling for the procedures.
(4) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
24 - 58 PLUMBINGWJ
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
NOTE: If a replacement compressor is being
installed, be certain to check the refrigerant oil
level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) Use only refrigerant oil of the type
recommended for the compressor in the vehicle.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - DESCRIPTION)
(1) Install the compressor. Tighten the 4.0L
mounting bolts fastening the compressor to the block
to 45-65 N´m (35-50 ft. lbs.). Tighten the mounting
bolts holding the rear brace to the compressor and
block to 40-55 N´m (30-40 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 4.7L
compressor front mounting screws to 45-65 N´m
(35-50 ft. lbs.), and the rear mounting screws to
35-45 N´m (25-35 ft. lbs.).
(2) Remove the tape or plugs from all of the
opened refrigerant line fittings. Install the suction
line and discharge line fittings to the manifold on the
compressor. Tighten the mounting bolts to 25.4 N´m
(225 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Cool-
ing for the procedures.
(4) Plug in the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.(6) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM EVACUATE)
(7) Charge the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)
INSTALLATION - 2.7L TURBO DIESEL
CAUTION: Check the oil level before installing the
new compressor. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
(1) Lift the compressor into position and install
the (4) mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.).
(2) Connect the compressor clutch electrical con-
nector.
(3) Install both refrigerant lines on the compressor.
Make certain the sealing 0-rings are free of tears and
well lubricated with R-134a refrigerant oil. Torque
the line retaining bolts to 22 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the front splash shield (if equipped).
(5) Lower the vehicle from the hoist.
(6) Install the accessory drive belt on the compres-
sor clutch. Refer to Cooling for the procedure.
(7) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
WJPLUMBING 24 - 61
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)

VISCOUS HEATER
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The diesel engine has an engine mounted mechan-
ical device called a Viscous Heater that is used to
heat the coolant coming from the engine to the
heater core. The Viscous Heater is driven by the
engine fan belt and has a electro-mechanical clutch
which is controlled by the HVAC control unit.
DESCRIPTION - VISCOUS HEATER CLUTCH
The basic viscous heater clutch assembly consists
of a stationary electromagnetic coil, a hub bearing
and pulley assembly and a clutch plate. The electro-
magnetic coil unit and the hub bearing and pulley
assembly are each retained on the nose of the com-
pressor front housing with snap rings (Fig. 17). The
clutch plate is keyed to the viscous heater shaft and
secured with a nut. These components provide the
means to engage and disengage the viscous heater
from the engine accessory drive belt.
OPERATION
OPERATION - VISCOUS HEATER
The Viscous Heater is driven by the engine fan
belt. The Viscous Heater has an electro-mechanical
clutch that receives a signal from the HVAC control
head and the Viscous Heater controller that ener-
gizes and engages the clutch. Once engaged theclutch allows the Viscous Heater to increase the tem-
perature of the coolant flowing to the heater core,
which provides heat the passenger compartment
quicker than normal engines without the Viscous
Heater. The Viscous Heater generates heat by means
of friction which heats a special Silicon Oil within its
housing which is then transferred to the engine cool-
ant when the coolant passes over fins within the
pump. Please note that the coolant is isolated from
the silicon oil within the pump housing. When
demand for passenger compartment heat decreases
the Viscous Heater clutch will receive an input from
the Viscous heater controller to disengage.
OPERATION - VISCOUS HEATER CLUTCH
When the clutch coil is energized, it magnetically
draws the clutch into contact with the pulley and
drives the viscous heater shaft. When the coil is not
energized the pulley freewheels on the clutch hub
bearing, which is part of the pulley. The viscous
heater clutch and coil are the only serviced parts on
the viscous heater assembly. If the viscous heater is
inoperative or damaged the entire assembly must be
replaced. The viscous heater clutch engagement is
controlled by several components: the viscous heater
controller, the engine powertrain control module and
the HVAC control head.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - VISCOUS HEATER
(1) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Remove the engine accessory drive belt(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the heater hose clamps at the Viscous
Heater.
(4) Remove the heater hoses from the Viscous
Heater.
(5) Unplug the Viscous Heater clutch electrical
connector.
(6) Remove the bolts holding the Viscous Heater to
the mounting bracket.
(7) Remove the Viscous Heater from the vehicle.
REMOVAL - VISCOUS HEATER CLUTCH
(1) The viscous heater clutch can be serviced in
the vehicle and the cooling system does not have to
be drained.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
Fig. 17 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY- typical
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - SHAFT KEY
3 - PULLEY
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
24 - 76 PLUMBINGWJ