light JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

(11) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(12) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 60).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the cylinder bores thoroughly. Apply a
light film of clean engine oil to the bores with a clean
lint-free cloth.
(2) Install the piston rings on the pistons if
removed (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
PISTON RINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Lubricate the piston and rings with clean
engine oil.
CAUTION: Ensure that connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose slipped over the
connecting rod bolts will provide protection during
installation.(4) Use a piston ring compressor to install the con-
necting rod and piston assemblies through the top of
the cylinder bores (Fig. 61).
(5) Ensure the arrow on the piston top points to
the front of the engine (Fig. 61).
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Each bearing insert is fitted to its respective
journal to obtain the specified clearance between the
bearing and the journal. In production, the select fit
is obtained by using various-sized, color-coded bear-
ing inserts as listed in the Connecting Rod Bearing
Fitting Chart. The color code appears on the edge of
the bearing insert. The size is not stamped on inserts
used for production of engines.
(8) The rod journal is identified during the engine
production by a color-coded paint mark on the adja-
cent cheek or counterweight toward the flange (rear)
end of the crankshaft. The color codes used to indi-
cate journal sizes are listed in the Connecting Rod
Bearing Fitting Chart.
(9) When required, upper and lower bearing
inserts of different sizes may be used as a pair (refer
to Connecting Rod Bearing Fitting Chart). A stan-
dard size insert is sometimes used in combination
with a 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) undersize insert to
reduce clearance 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch).
CAUTION: DO NOT intermix bearing caps. Each
connecting rod and bearing cap are stamped with
the cylinder number. The stamp is located on a
machined surface adjacent to the oil squirt hole
that faces the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
(10) Install the connecting rod bearing caps and
inserts in the same positions as removed.
CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(11) Install main bearing cap brace (Fig. 58).
Tighten nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 60 Removal of Connecting Rod and Piston
Assembly
1 - PISTON
2 - CONNECTING ROD
3 - BLOCK
Fig. 61 Rod and Piston Assembly Installation
9 - 46 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

(5) The oil control rings are symmetrical, and can
be installed with either side up. It is not necessary to
use a tool to install the upper and lower rails. Insert
oil rail spacer first, then side rails.
(6) The two compression rings are different and
cannot be interchanged. The top compression ring
can be identified by the shiny coating on the outer
sealing surface and can be installed with either side
up. (Fig. 65).
(7) The second compression ring has a slight
chamfer on the bottom of the inside edge and a dot
on the top for correct installation (Fig. 66) and (Fig.
67).
(8) Using a ring installer, install the second com-
pression ring with the dot facing up (Fig. 66) (Fig.
68).
(9) Using a ring installer, install the top compres-
sion ring (either side up).
Ring Gap Orientation
²Position the gaps on the piston as shown (Fig.
69).
²Oil spacer - Gap on center line of piston skirt.
²Oil rails - gap 180É apart on centerline of piston
pin bore.
²No. 2 Compression ring - Gap 180É from top oil
rail gap.
²No. 1 Compression ring - Gap 180É from No. 2
compression ring gap.
Fig. 64 Gap Measurement
1 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 65 Top Compression ring identification
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING
Fig. 66 Second Compression Ring Identification
1 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING
2 - CHAMFER
3 - ONE DOT
Fig. 67 Compression Ring Chamfer Location
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING
2 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING
3 - PISTON
4 - CHAMFER
9 - 48 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
PISTON RINGS (Continued)

crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals (except number 4 main bear-
ing journal) to the connecting rod journals. Each con-
necting rod bearing cap has a small squirt hole, oil
passes through the squirt hole and is thrown off as
the rod rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the cam-
shaft lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and
piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. Oil is provided to the cam-
shaft bearing through galleries. The front camshaft
bearing journal passes oil through the camshaft
sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to the
oil pan under the number one main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components,
then passes down through the push rod guide holes
in the cylinder head past the valve tappet area, and
returns to the oil pan (Fig. 73).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Disconnect connector and remove oil pressure
sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292 or equivalent. Start engine and record pres-
sure. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the CCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the CCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service informa-
tion procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS .
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the CCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 51
LUBRICATION (Continued)

All Jeep engines are equipped with a high quality
full-flow, throw-away type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler
Corporation recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss or filter
adapter housing (Fig. 75).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) Make sure old gasket comes off with oil filter.
With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface
(Fig. 76) of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 76) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The oil pan is made of stamped steel. The oil pan
gasket is a one piece steel backbone silicone coated
gasket (Fig. 77).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOV-
AL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
Fig. 75 Oil FilterÐ4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - ADAPTER
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 76 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 77 Oil Pan
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
9 - 54 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

(1) Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the timing
case cover. The open end of the seal should be toward
the inside of the cover. Support the cover at the seal
area while installing the seal. Force it into position
with Seal Installation Tool 6139.
(2) Position the gasket on the cylinder block.
(3) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
(4) Insert Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139 in the crankshaft opening in
the cover (Fig. 87).
(5) Install the timing case cover-to-cylinder block
and the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts.
(6) Tighten the 1/4 inch cover-to-block bolts to 7
N´m (60 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch front
cover-to-block bolts to 22 N´m (192 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 1/4 inch bolts to 9.5 N´m
(84 in. lbs.) torque.(7) Remove the cover alignment tool.
(8) Apply a light film of engine oil on the vibration
damper hub contact surface of the seal.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key inserted in the keyway in the
crankshaft, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION) (if equipped) and
generator bracket assembly.
(11) Install the engine fan, hub assembly and
shroud (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
FAN - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 85 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS 4.0L ENGINE
Fig. 86 Timing Case Cover Components
1 - TIMING CASE COVER
2 - OIL SLINGER
3 - CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL
4 - VIBRATION DAMPER PULLEYFig. 87 Timing Case Cover Alignment
1 - TIMING CASE COVER ALIGNMENT AND SEAL
INSTALLATION TOOL
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 59
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
INJECTION/IDLE AIR CONTROL
MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture to lean or to rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and vacuum
hoses, repair or replace as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING), repair as necessary.
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 65
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 2)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the front fascia.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
(5) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(6) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 4)
(7) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(8) Remove starter. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove rubber splash shield.
(10) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove torque converter bolts.
(12) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
Fig. 2 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 3 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 71
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

(13) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable from the block heater.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Remove throttle body resonator assembly and
inlet hose.
(16) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(17) Disconnect tube from both the left and right
side crankcase breathers, then remove the breathers
(Fig. 5).
(18) Discharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).(19) Remove radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL) and acces-
sory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
(20) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(21) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
(22) Disconnect radiator lower hose at the thermo-
stat housing.
(23) Remove A/C condenser (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C CON-
DENSER - REMOVAL).
(24) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(25) Remove generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(26) Disconnect the two heater hoses from the tim-
ing chain cover.
(27) Disconnect engine harness at the following
points :
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (Fig. 6)
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
(28) Release fuel rail pressure (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE) then disconnect the fuel supply quick connect
fitting at the fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(29) Remove power steering pump and position out
of the way.
(30) Disconnect ground straps from the left side of
the engine.
(31) Install Engine Lifting Fixture Special Tool
8347 (Fig. 7)following these steps.
²Holding the lifting fixture at a slight angle, slide
the large bore in the front plate over the hex portion
of the lifting stud.
²Position the two remaining fixture arms onto
the two lifting studs in the cylinder heads.
²Pull foward and upward on the lifting fixture so
that the lifting stud rest in the slotted area below the
large bore.
²Secure the lifting fixture to the three studs
using three 7/16 ± 14 N/C locknuts.
²Make sure the lifting loop in the lifting fixture is
in the last hole (closest to the throttle body) to min-
imize the angle of engine during removal.
Fig. 4 Crankshaft Position Sensor
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
Fig. 5 Crankcase Breather Connection Points
1 - CRANKCASE BREATHERS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

(32) Disconnect body ground strap at the right side
cowl.
NOTE: It will be necessary to support the transmis-
sion in order to remove the engine.
(33) Position a suitable jack under the transmis-
sion.
(34) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(35) Raise engine slightly, then remove both left
and right side engine mounts from engine. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/FRONT MOUNT
- REMOVAL).
(36) Remove engine from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position engine in the vehicle.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
onto engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNT-
ING/FRONT MOUNT - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install transmission to engine mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).(4) Remove jack from under the transmission.
(5) Remove engine lifting fixture special tool 8347
(Fig. 7).
(6) Connect ground straps on the left side of the
engine.
(7) Install power steering pump (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(8) Connect fuel supply line quick connect fitting
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Connect engine harness at the following points
(Fig. 6):
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Fig. 6 Throttle Body Connection Points
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - TPS
3 - IAC MOTOR
4 - IAT SENSOR (THREADED TYPE)
5 - MOUNTING SCREWS
Fig. 7 Engine Lifting Fixture Attachment Locations
1 - ATTACHING LOCATION
2 - ADJUSTABLE HOOK
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8347 ENGINE LIFT FIXTURE
4 - ATTACHING LOCATIONS
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 73
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each
valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots
on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three
bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote
valve rotation.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is
important that the correct size valve guide pilot be
used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur-
face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the
center of the valve seat Total run out must not
exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the
valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head,
while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the
valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face.
If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the
valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree
stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of
the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree
stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width
of the intake seat must be 1.75 ± 2.36 mm (0.0689 ±
0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 ± 2.32
mm (0.0673 ± 0.0911 in.).
(4) Check the valve spring installed height after
refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for
both intake and exhaust valve springs must not
exceed 41.44 mm (1.6315 in.).
(5) The valve seat and valve face must maintain a
face angle of 44.5 ± 45 degrees angle (Fig. 23).
REMOVAL
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in
order to preform this procedure.
(1) Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters. Refer
to procedures in this section (Fig. 24).
(2) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the
camshaft.
Fig. 23 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
Fig. 24 Rocker Arm Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
9 - 94 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ