light JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

between the rollers and cam. This increased clear-
ance between the rollers and cam results in a free-
wheeling condition. When the inner race attempts to
rotate counterclockwise, the action causes the rollers
to roll in the same direction as the race, aided by the
pushing of the springs. As the rollers try to move in
the same direction as the inner race, they are
wedged between the inner and outer races due to the
design of the cam. In this condition, the clutch is
locked and acts as one unit.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: To service the overrunning clutch cam and
the overdrive piston retainer, the transmission
geartrain and the overdrive unit must be removed
from the transmission.
(1) Remove the overdrive piston (Fig. 190).
(2) Remove the overdrive piston retainer bolts.
(3) Remove overdrive piston retainer.
(4) Remove case gasket.
(5) Mark the position of the overrunning clutch
cam in the case (Fig. 191).
(6) Remove the overrunning clutch cam bolts.
(7) Remove the overrunning clutch cam.
CLEANING
Clean the overrunning clutch assembly, clutch cam,
low-reverse drum, and overdrive piston retainer in
solvent. Dry them with compressed air after clean-
ing.
INSPECTION
Inspect condition of each clutch part after cleaning.
Replace the overrunning clutch roller and spring
assembly if any rollers or springs are worn or dam-
aged, or if the roller cage is distorted, or damaged.
Replace the cam if worn, cracked or damaged.
Replace the low-reverse drum if the clutch race,
roller surface or inside diameter is scored, worn or
damaged.Do not remove the clutch race from
the low-reverse drum under any circumstances.
Replace the drum and race as an assembly if
either component is damaged.
Examine the overdrive piston retainer carefully for
wear, cracks, scoring or other damage. Be sure the
retainer hub is a snug fit in the case and drum.
Replace the retainer if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Examine bolt holes in overrunning clutch cam.
Note that one hole isnot threaded(Fig. 192). This
hole must align with blank area in clutch cam bolt
circle (Fig. 193). Mark hole location on clutch cam
and blank area in case with grease pencil, paint
stripe, or scribe mark for assembly reference.
(2) Mark location of non-threaded hole in clutch
cam and blank area in bolt circle with grease pencil.
(3) Align and install overrunning clutch and cam
in case (Fig. 194). Be sure cam is correctly installed.
Bolt holes in cam are slightly countersunk on one
side. Be sure this side of cam faces rearward (toward
piston retainer).
(4) Verify that non-threaded hole in clutch cam is
properly aligned. Check alignment by threading a
bolt into each bolt hole. Adjust clutch cam position if
necessary.
Fig. 190 Overdrive Piston Removal
1 - OVERDRIVE CLUTCH PISTON
2 - INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
3 - SELECTIVE SPACER
4 - PISTON RETAINER
Fig. 191 Overrunning Clutch Cam Removal
1 - ALIGN MARKS IDENTIFYING NON-THREADED HOLE IN
CAM AND CASE
2 - OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
21 - 106 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH CAM/OVERDRIVE PISTON RETAINER (Continued)

When pressure is released from the piston, the
spring returns the piston to its fully released position
and disengages the clutch. The release spring also
helps to cushion the application of the clutch assem-
bly. When the clutch is in the process of being
released by the release spring, fluid flows through a
vent and one-way ball-check-valve located in the pis-
ton. The check-valve is needed to eliminate the pos-
sibility of plate drag caused by centrifugal force
acting on the residual fluid trapped in the clutch pis-
ton retainer.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove fiber thrust washer from forward side
of clutch retainer.
(2) Remove input shaft front/rear seal rings.
(3) Remove selective clutch pack snap-ring (Fig.
225).(4) Remove top pressure plate, clutch discs, steel
plates, bottom pressure plate and wave snap-ring
and wave spring (Fig. 225).
(5) Remove clutch piston with rotating motion.
(6) Remove and discard piston seals.
(7) Remove input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 226). It
may be necessary to press the input shaft in slightly
to relieve tension on the snap-ring
(8) Press input shaft out of retainer with shop
press and suitable size press tool. Use a suitably
sized press tool to support the retainer as close to the
input shaft as possible.CLEANING
Clean the clutch components with solvent and dry
them with compressed air. Do not use rags or shop
towels to dry any of the clutch parts. Lint from such
materials will adhere to component surfaces and
could restrict or block fluid passages after assembly.
Fig. 225 Rear Clutch Components
1 - PISTON SPRING 10 - TOP PRESSURE PLATE
2 - REAR CLUTCH PISTON 11 - CLUTCH DISCS (4)
3 - CLUTCH PISTON SEALS 12 - BOTTOM PRESSURE PLATE
4 - OUTPUT SHAFT THRUST WASHER (METAL) 13 - WAVE SPRING
5 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING 14 - CLUTCH PLATES (3)
6 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER 15 - RETAINER SEAL RING
7 - INPUT SHAFT 16 - SHAFT REAR SEAL RING (PLASTIC)
8 - REAR CLUTCH THRUST WASHER (FIBER) 17 - SHAFT FRONT SEAL RING (TEFLON)
9 - CLUTCH PACK SNAP-RING (SELECTIVE)
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 119
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 227) and (Fig.
228).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 229). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 226).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 230). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 230). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 225).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
225).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
(15) Using a suitable gauge bar and dial indicator,
measure clutch pack clearance (Fig. 231).
(a) Position gauge bar across the clutch drum
with the dial indicator pointer on the pressure
plate (Fig. 231).
(b) Using two small screw drivers, lift the pres-
sure plate and release it.
Fig. 226 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 120 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

(c) Zero the dial indicator.
(d) Lift the pressure plate until it contacts the
snap-ring and record the dial indicator reading.Clearance should be 0.559 - 0.914 mm (0.022 -
0.036 in.). If clearance is incorrect, steel plates, discs,
selective snap ring and pressure plates may have to
be changed.
Fig. 227 Rear Clutch Retainer And Input Shaft Seal
Ring Installation
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER HUB SEAL RING
2 - INPUT SHAFT SEAL RINGS
Fig. 228 Input Shaft Seal Ring Identification
1 - PLASTIC REAR SEAL RING
2 - TEFLON FRONT SEAL RING (SQUEEZE RING TOGETHER
SLIGHTLY BEFORE INSTALLATION FOR BETTER FIT)
Fig. 229 Pressing Input Shaft Into Rear Clutch
Retainer
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
3 - PRESS RAM
Fig. 230 Piston Spring/Wave Spring Position
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - PISTON SPRING
3 - WAVE SPRING
4 - CLUTCH PISTON
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 121
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward
and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable
housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the
angle at which the cable housing enters the spring
housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and
create an incorrect adjustment.
(8) Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle
bellcrank lever (C).
(9) Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission
throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simul-
taneously.
TORQUE CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION
The torque converter (Fig. 245) is a hydraulic
device that couples the engine crankshaft to the
transmission. The torque converter consists of an
outer shell with an internal turbine, a stator, an
overrunning clutch, an impeller and an electronically
applied converter clutch. The converter clutch pro-
vides reduced engine speed and greater fuel economy
when engaged. Clutch engagement also provides
reduced transmission fluid temperatures. The torque
converter hub drives the transmission oil (fluid)
pump.
The torque converter is a sealed, welded unit that
is not repairable and is serviced as an assembly.
CAUTION: The torque converter must be replaced if
a transmission failure resulted in large amounts of
metal or fiber contamination in the fluid. If the fluid
is contaminated, flush the all transmission fluid
cooler(s) and lines.
Fig. 244 Throttle Valve Cable at Throttle Linkage
1 - THROTTLE LINKAGE
2 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE LOCKING CLIP
3 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
Fig. 245 Torque Converter Assembly
1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
3 - HUB
4-STATOR
5 - FRONT COVER
6 - CONVERTER CLUTCH DISC
7 - DRIVE PLATE
21 - 128 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
THROTTLE VALVE CABLE (Continued)

OPERATION
The converter impeller (Fig. 251) (driving member),
which is integral to the converter housing and bolted
to the engine drive plate, rotates at engine speed.
The converter turbine (driven member), which reacts
from fluid pressure generated by the impeller, rotates
and turns the transmission input shaft.
TURBINE
As the fluid that was put into motion by the impel-
ler blades strikes the blades of the turbine, some of
the energy and rotational force is transferred into the
turbine and the input shaft. This causes both of them
(turbine and input shaft) to rotate in a clockwise
direction following the impeller. As the fluid is leav-
ing the trailing edges of the turbine's blades it con-
tinues in a ªhinderingº direction back toward the
impeller. If the fluid is not redirected before it strikes
the impeller, it will strike the impeller in such a
direction that it would tend to slow it down.
STATOR
Torque multiplication is achieved by locking the
stator's over-running clutch to its shaft (Fig. 252).
Under stall conditions (the turbine is stationary), the
oil leaving the turbine blades strikes the face of the
stator blades and tries to rotate them in a counter-
clockwise direction. When this happens the overrun-
ning clutch of the stator locks and holds the stator
from rotating. With the stator locked, the oil strikes
the stator blades and is redirected into a ªhelpingº
direction before it enters the impeller. This circula-
tion of oil from impeller to turbine, turbine to stator,
and stator to impeller, can produce a maximum
torque multiplication of about 2.4:1. As the turbine
begins to match the speed of the impeller, the fluid
that was hitting the stator in such as way as to
cause it to lock-up is no longer doing so. In this con-
dition of operation, the stator begins to free wheel
and the converter acts as a fluid coupling.
Fig. 251 Torque Converter Fluid Operation
1 - APPLY PRESSURE 3 - RELEASE PRESSURE
2 - THE PISTON MOVES SLIGHTLY FORWARD 4 - THE PISTON MOVES SLIGHTLY REARWARD
21 - 132 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)

Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either
part has sustained physical damage (dented,
deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of
the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the
screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibra-
tion and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the
filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do
not try to remove the filter as this will damage the
valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or
damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing,
lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer
plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean
and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and
transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls
and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
The only serviceable valve body components are
listed below. The remaining valve body components
are serviced only as part of a complete valve body
assembly. Serviceable parts are:
²dual solenoid and harness assembly
²solenoid gasket
²solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder
bolt
²switch valve and spring
Fig. 310 Accumulator Housing Components
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 166 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

3-4 ACCUMULATOR
(1) Position converter clutch valve and 3-4 shift
valve springs in housing (Fig. 324).
(2) Loosely attach accumulator housing with right-
side screw (Fig. 324). Install only one screw at this
time as accumulator must be free to pivot upward for
ease of installation.
(3) Install 3-4 shift valve and spring.
(4) Install converter clutch timing valve and
spring.
(5) Position plug on end of converter clutch valve
spring. Then compress and hold springs and plug in
place with fingers of one hand.
(6) Swing accumulator housing upward over valve
springs and plug.
(7) Hold accumulator housing firmly in place and
install remaining two attaching screws. Be sure
springs and clutch valve plug are properly seated
(Fig. 325). Tighten screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
VALVE BODY FINAL
(1) Install boost valve, valve spring, retainer and
cover plate. Tighten cover plate screws to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Insert manual lever detent spring in upper
housing.
(3) Position detent ball on end of spring. Then hold
detent ball and spring in detent housing with
Retainer Tool 6583 (Fig. 326).(4) Install throttle lever in upper housing. Then
install manual lever over throttle lever and start
manual lever into housing.
(5) Align manual lever with detent ball and man-
ual valve. Hold throttle lever upward. Then press
down on manual lever until fully seated. Remove
detent ball retainer tool after lever is seated.
(6) Then install manual lever seal, washer and
E-clip.
(7) Verify that throttle lever is aligned with end of
kickdown valve stem and that manual lever arm is
engaged in manual valve (Fig. 327).
(8) Position line pressure adjusting screw in
adjusting screw bracket.
(9) Install spring on end of line pressure regulator
valve.
(10) Install switch valve spring on tang at end of
adjusting screw bracket.
(11) Install manual valve.
(12) Install throttle valve and spring.
(13) Install kickdown valve and detent.
(14) Install pressure regulator valve.
(15) Install switch valve.
(16) Position adjusting screw bracket on valve
body. Align valve springs and press bracket into
place. Install short, upper bracket screws first and
long bottom screw last. Verify that valve springs and
bracket are properly aligned. Then tighten all three
bracket screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(17) Perform Line Pressure and Throttle Pressure
adjustments. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC/VALVE BODY - ADJUST-
MENTS)
(18) Lubricate solenoid case connector O-rings and
shaft of manual lever with light coat of petroleum
jelly.
Fig. 324 Converter Clutch And 3-4 Shift Valve
Springs
1 - RIGHT-SIDE SCREW
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR
3 - 3-4 SHIFT VALVE SPRING
4 - CONVERTER CLUTCH VALVE SPRING
Fig. 325 Seating 3-4 Accumulator On Lower
Housing
1 - ACCUMULATOR BOX
2 - CONVERTER CLUTCH VALVE PLUG
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 173
VALVE BODY (Continued)

(12) Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission
manual valve lever (Fig. 9).
(13) Disconnect transfer case shift cable from the
transfer case shift lever (Fig. 10).
(14) Remove the clip securing the transfer case
shift cable into the cable support bracket.
(15) Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at
transmission fittings and clips.
(16) Disconnect the transmission vent hose from
the transmission.
(17) Support rear of engine with safety stand or
jack.
(18) Raise transmission slightly with service jack
to relieve load on crossmember and supports.(19) Remove bolts securing rear support and cush-
ion to transmission and crossmember (Fig. 11).
(20) Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame
and remove crossmember.
(21) Remove transfer case (Fig. 12) and (Fig. 13).
(22) Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
(23) Carefully work transmission and torque con-
verter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
(24) Hold torque converter in place during trans-
mission removal.
(25) Lower transmission and remove assembly
from under the vehicle.
Fig. 9 Transmission Shift Cable
1 - SHIFT CABLE
2 - MANUAL LEVER
3 - MANUAL LEVER
Fig. 10 Transfer Case Shift Cable
1 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LEVER
2 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT CABLE
Fig. 11 Rear Transmission Crossmember
1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - REAR TRANSMISSION MOUNT
Fig. 12 Remove NV247 Transfer Case
1 - NV247 TRANSFER CASE
21 - 184 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)

(5) Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then
rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with steel scale and
straightedge (Fig. 52). Surface of converter lugs
should be at least 13 mm (1/2 in.) to rear of straight-
edge when converter is fully seated.
(7) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
(8) Position transmission on jack and secure it
with chains.
(9) Check condition of converter driveplate.
Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged.
Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated
in engine block and protrude far enough to
hold transmission in alignment.
(10) Apply a light coating of MopartHigh Temp
Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear
pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
(11) Raise transmission and align the torque con-
verter with the drive plate and the transmission con-
verter housing with the engine block.
(12) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower,
or tilt transmission to align the converter housing
with the engine block dowels.
(13) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission
vent hose, have become trapped between the engine
block and the transmission.
(14) Install two bolts to attach the transmission to
the engine.(15) Install remaining torque converter housing to
engine bolts. Tighten to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(16) Install rear transmission crossmember.
Tighten crossmember to frame bolts to 68 N´m (50
ft.lbs.).
(17) Install rear support to transmission. Tighten
bolts to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.).
(18) Lower transmission onto crossmember and
install bolts attaching transmission mount to cross-
member. Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts
to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.). Tighten the clevis bracket to
rear support bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(19) Remove engine support fixture.
(20) Install new plastic retainer grommet on any
shift cable that was disconnected. Grommets should
not be reused. Use pry tool to remove rod from grom-
met and cut away old grommet. Use pliers to snap
new grommet into cable and to snap grommet onto
lever.
(21) Connect gearshift cable to transmission.
(22) Connect wires to solenoid and pressure switch
assembly connector, input and output speed sensors,
and line pressure sensor. Be sure transmission har-
nesses are properly routed.
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be
used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts
that are too long will damage the clutch surface
inside the converter.
(23) Install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts
by hand.
(24) Verify that the torque converter is pulled
flush to the driveplate. Tighten bolts to 31 N´m (270
in. lbs.).
(25) Install starter motor and cooler line bracket.
(26) Connect cooler lines to transmission.
(27) Install transmission fill tube.
(28) Install exhaust components.
(29) Install transfer case. Tighten transfer case
nuts to 35 N´m (26 ft.lbs.).
(30) Install the transfer case shift cable to the
cable support bracket and the transfer case shift
lever.
(31) Install the transmission collar onto the trans-
mission and the engine. Tighten the bolts to 54 N´m
(40 ft.lbs.).
(32) Align and connect propeller shaft(s).
(33) Adjust gearshift cable if necessary.
(34) Lower vehicle.
(35) Fill transmission with MopartATF +4, type
9602, Automatic Transmission fluid.
Fig. 52 Checking Torque Converter Seating - Typical
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
21 - 198 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)