insid JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 8).(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
(4) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(5) Install the brake line to the brake hose inside
the engine compartment by the front control arm
bolt.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(5) Install the brake hose mounting bolt at the top
of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the body
(Fig. 6).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear brakes use a leading shoe (primary) and
trailing shoe (secondary) design (Right rear brake is
shown) (Fig. 9).
Fig. 6 BRAKE HOSE AT THE BODY
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINE
4 - COIL SPRING
Fig. 7 BRAKE HOSE AT THE AXLE
1 - REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - VENT HOSE
4 - BRAKE LINES
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 8 BRAKE HOSE MOUNTED
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - FRONT OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 3).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat fornicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 4).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
Fig. 3 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 4 COOLINGKJ
COOLING (Continued)

The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 2).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat for
nicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 3).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
Fig. 2 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 3 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
KJCOOLING - 2.4L7s-3
COOLING - 2.4L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AMPLIFIER
CHOKE AND RELAY
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB diagnostic tool.
For information on the use of the DRB, refer to
the appropriate Diagnostic Service Manual.
The amplifier choke and relay is used to switch
power to the individual speaker amplifiers used with
the premium speaker package. The amplifier choke
and relay is serviced only as a unit. If all of the
speakers are inoperative the amplifier choke and
relay should be inspected. Before replacement, make
the following inspections of the amplifier choke and
relay circuits. For complete circuit diagrams, refer to
the appropriate wiring information. The wiring infor-
mation includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and
connector repair procedures, details of wire harness
routing and retention, connector pin-out information
and location views for the various wire harness con-
nectors, splices and grounds.
(1)
Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If
OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK,
repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the battery as
required.
(3) Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector from the amplifier choke and relay. Check
for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of
the instrument panel wire harness connector for the
amplifier choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 4. If not
OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the junction
block fuse as required.
(4) Probe the ground circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. Check for continuity to a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(5) Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position
and turn the radio ON. Check for battery voltage at
the radio 12-volt output circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK,
repair the open radio 12-volt output circuit to the
radio as required.
(6) Turn the radio and ignition switches to the
OFF position. Reconnect the instrument panel wire
harness connector to the amplifier choke and relay.
Check for battery voltage at the amplified speaker
(+) circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire har-
ness connector for the amplifier choke and relay.
There should be zero volts. Turn the ignition and
radio switches to the ON position. There should now
be battery voltage. If OK, repair the open amplified
speaker (+) circuits to the speaker-mounted amplifi-ers as required. If not OK, replace the faulty ampli-
fier choke and relay.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(3) Disconnect the electrical harness connector
from the amplifier choke and relay (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove mounting screws and amplifier choke
and relay.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the amplifier choke and relay.
(2) Install the mounting screws.
(3) Connect the electrical harness connector.
(4) Install knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE
DESCRIPTION
The antenna body and cable is secured below the
fender panel by the antenna cap nut through a
mounting hole in the side of the right front fender.
The primary coaxial antenna cable is then routed
beneath the fender sheet metal and through a entry
hole in the right cowl side panel into the interior of
the vehicle. Inside the vehicle, the primary coaxial
cable is connected to a secondary instrument panel
antenna coaxial cable with an in-line connector that
is located behind the right kick panel. The secondary
coaxial cable is then routed behind the instrument
panel to the back of the radio.
Fig. 1 RADIO CHOKE
1 - RADIO CHOKE
2 - MOUNTING SCREWS
8A - 4 AUDIOKJ
AMPLIFIER CHOKE AND RELAY (Continued)

battery charging should only be performed when
absolutely necessary due to time restraints. A battery
is fully-charged when:
²All of the battery cells are gassing freely during
battery charging.
²A green color is visible in the sight glass of the
battery built-in test indicator.
²Three hydrometer tests, taken at one-hour inter-
vals, indicate no increase in the temperature-cor-
rected specific gravity of the battery electrolyte.
²Open-circuit voltage of the battery is 12.65 volts
or above.
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED TWENTY AMPERES
WHEN CHARGING A COLD (-1É C [30É F] OR
LOWER) BATTERY. THE BATTERY MAY ARC INTER-
NALLY AND EXPLODE. PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR
VEHICLE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
CAUTION: Always disconnect and isolate the bat-
tery negative cable before charging a battery. Do
not exceed sixteen volts while charging a battery.
Damage to the vehicle electrical system compo-
nents may result.
CAUTION: Battery electrolyte will bubble inside the
battery case during normal battery charging. Elec-
trolyte boiling or being discharged from the battery
vents indicates a battery overcharging condition.
Immediately reduce the charging rate or turn off the
charger to evaluate the battery condition. Damage
to the battery may result from overcharging.
CAUTION: The battery should not be hot to the
touch. If the battery feels hot to the touch, turn off
the charger and let the battery cool before continu-
ing the charging operation. Damage to the battery
may result.
NOTE: Models equipped with the diesel engine
option are equipped with two 12-volt batteries, con-
nected in parallel (positive-to-positive and negative-
to-negative). In order to ensure proper charging of
each battery, these batteries MUST be disconnected
from each other, as well as from the vehicle electri-
cal system, while being charged.
Some battery chargers are equipped with polarity-
sensing circuitry. This circuitry protects the battery
charger and the battery from being damaged if they
are improperly connected. If the battery state-of-
charge is too low for the polarity-sensing circuitry to
detect, the battery charger will not operate. This
makes it appear that the battery will not acceptcharging current. See the instructions provided by
the manufacturer of the battery charger for details
on how to bypass the polarity-sensing circuitry.
After the battery has been charged to 12.4 volts or
greater, perform a load test to determine the battery
cranking capacity. Refer to Standard Procedures for
the proper battery load test procedures. If the battery
will endure a load test, return the battery to service.
If the battery will not endure a load test, it is faulty
and must be replaced.
Clean and inspect the battery hold downs, tray,
terminals, posts, and top before completing battery
service. Refer to Battery System Cleaning for the
proper battery system cleaning procedures, and Bat-
tery System Inspection for the proper battery system
inspection procedures.
CHARGING A COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY
The following procedure should be used to recharge
a completely discharged battery. Unless this proce-
dure is properly followed, a good battery may be
needlessly replaced.
(1) Measure the voltage at the battery posts with a
voltmeter, accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt (Fig. 6). If the
reading is below ten volts, the battery charging cur-
rent will be low. It could take some time before the
battery accepts a current greater than a few milliam-
peres. Such low current may not be detectable on the
ammeters built into many battery chargers.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Connect the battery charger leads. Some bat-
tery chargers are equipped with polarity-sensing cir-
cuitry. This circuitry protects the battery charger and
the battery from being damaged if they are improp-
erly connected. If the battery state-of-charge is too
low for the polarity-sensing circuitry to detect, the
battery charger will not operate. This makes it
appear that the battery will not accept charging cur-
rent. See the instructions provided by the manufac-
Fig. 6 Voltmeter - Typical
KJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 9
BATTERY (Continued)

HEATED SYSTEMS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HEATED MIRRORS......................... 1
WINDOW DEFOGGER....................... 3HEATED SEAT SYSTEM.................... 10
HEATED MIRRORS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HEATED MIRRORS
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................1DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED
MIRRORS............................1
HEATED MIRRORS
DESCRIPTION
Vehicles equipped with the optional heated mirror
package have an electric heating grid located behind
the mirror glass of each outside rear view mirror.
The heated mirrors are controlled by the rear win-
dow defogger switch. Electrical current is directed to
the heating grid inside the mirror only when the rear
window defogger switch is in the On position.
If the outside mirror heating grids and the rear
window heating grid are all inoperative, (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). If the outside mirror heating grids are
inoperative, but the rear window heating grid is
operating as designed, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
HEATED MIRRORS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
The heating grid behind each outside mirror glass
cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the
entire power mirror unit must be replaced(Refer to 8
- ELECTRICAL/POWER MIRRORS/SIDEVIEW MIR-
ROR - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
POWER MIRRORS/SIDEVIEW MIRROR -
INSTALLATION).
OPERATION
The heated mirror is controlled by the rear window
defogger switch. The only time that the heated mir-
ror is on is when the rear window defogger is on. The
mirror should become warm to the touch.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED MIRRORS
For circuit descriptions and diagrams (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information).
(1) Check the fuse in the junction block. If OK, go
to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or
component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the junction
block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the ignition switch as required.
(3) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the front door trim panel on the side
of the vehicle with the inoperative mirror heating
grid. Unplug the wire harness connector at the mir-
ror. Check for continuity between the ground circuit
cavity in the body half of the power mirror wire har-
ness connector and a good ground. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as
required.
(4) Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the
ignition switch to the On position. Turn on the rear
window defogger system. Check for battery voltage at
the rear window defogger relay output circuit cavity
in the body half of the power mirror wire harness
connector. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the
open circuit to the rear window defogger relay as
required.
KJHEATED SYSTEMS 8G - 1

(2) Follow the instructions in the repair kit for
preparing the damaged area.
(3) Remove the package separator clamp and mix
the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly
within the packaging. Fold the package in half and
cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
(4) For grid line repairs, mask the area to be
repaired with masking tape or a template.
(5) Apply the epoxy through the slit in the mask-
ing tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break
by at least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
(6) For a terminal or pigtail wire replacement,
mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be
extended onto the adjacent grid line as well as the
bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area
where the terminal or pigtail wire was fastened and
onto the adjacent grid line.
(7) Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the
terminal or bare wire end of the pigtail and place it
in the proper location on the bus bar. To prevent the
terminal or pigtail wire from moving while the epoxy
is curing, it must be wedged or clamped.
(8)
Carefully remove the masking tape or template.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed
204É C (400É F) or the glass may fracture.
(9) Allow the epoxy to cure 24 hours at room tem-
perature, or use a heat gun that will not over heat
the glass. Hold the heat gun approximately 25.4 cen-
timeters (10 inches) from the repair.
(10) After the conductive epoxy is properly cured,
remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal or pig-
tail wire. Do not attach the wire harness connectors
until the curing process is complete.
(11) Check the operation of the rear window defog-
ger glass heating grid.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
GRID
DESCRIPTION
The heated rear window glass has two electrically
conductive vertical bus bars and a series of 11 hori-
zontal grid lines made of a silver-ceramic material,
which is baked on and bonded to the inside surface of
the glass. The grid lines and bus bars comprise a
parallel electrical circuit.
OPERATION
When the rear window defogger switch is placed in
the On position, electrical current is directed to the
rear window grid lines through the bus bars. The
grid lines heat the rear window to clear the surface
of fog or snow. Protection for the heated grid circuit
is provided by a fuse in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC).
The grid lines and bus bars are highly resistant to
abrasion. However, it is possible for an open circuit
to occur in an individual grid line, resulting in no
current flow through the line.
The grid lines can be damaged or scraped off with
sharp instruments. Care should be taken when clean-
ing the glass or removing foreign materials, decals,
or stickers from the glass. Normal glass cleaning sol-
vents or hot water used with rags or toweling is rec-
ommended.
A repair kit is available to repair the grid lines and
bus bars, or to reinstall the heated glass pigtail
wires.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER GRID
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). To detect breaks in
the grid lines, the following procedure is required:
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the run position.
Set the defogger switch in the On position. The indi-
cator lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 2. If not
OK, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS/
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
(2) Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the right side of the vehicle with the
negative lead. With the positive lead, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the left side of the vehicle. The volt-
meter should read battery voltage. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the defogger
relay as required.
(3) With the negative lead of the voltmeter, contact
a good body ground point. The voltage reading should
not change. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the
circuit to ground as required.
Fig. 2 GRID LINE REPAIR
1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
KJWINDOW DEFOGGER 8G - 5
WINDOW DEFOGGER (Continued)

cylinders 1 and 4, and coil number two fires cylinders
2 and 3.
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery
voltage to the ignition coil. The PCM provides a
ground contact (circuit) for energizing the coil(s). The
PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not
receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft
position sensor inputs.
Base ignition timing is not adjustable.By con-
trolling the coil ground circuit, the PCM is able to set
the base timing and adjust the ignition timing
advance. This is done to meet changing engine oper-
ating conditions.
The ignition coil is not oil filled. The windings are
embedded in an epoxy compound. This provides heat
and vibration resistance that allows the ignition coil
to be mounted on the engine.
Spark plug cables (secondary wires or cables) are
used with the 2.4L engine.
3.7L
Battery voltage is supplied to the 6 ignition coils
from the ASD relay. The Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) opens and closes each ignition coil ground cir-
cuit at a determined time for ignition coil operation.
Base ignition timing is not adjustable.By con-
trolling the coil ground circuit, the PCM is able to set
the base timing and adjust the ignition timing
advance. This is done to meet changing engine oper-
ating conditions.
The ignition coil is not oil filled. The windings are
embedded in an epoxy compound. This provides heat
and vibration resistance that allows the ignition coil
to be mounted on the engine.
Because of coil design, spark plug cables (second-
ary cables) are not used with the 3.7L engine.
REMOVAL
2.4L
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at rear of coil.
(2) Remove all secondary cables from coil.
(3) Remove 4 coil mounting bolts (Fig. 17).
(4) Remove coil from vehicle.
3.7L
An individual ignition coil is used for each spark
plug (Fig. 19). The coil fits into machined holes in the
cylinder head. A mounting stud/nut secures each coil
to the top of the intake manifold (Fig. 18). The bot-
tom of the coil is equipped with a rubber boot to seal
the spark plug to the coil. Inside each rubber boot is
a spring. The spring is used for a mechanical contact
between the coil and the top of the spark plug. These
rubber boots and springs are a permanent part of the
coil and are not serviced separately. An o-ring (Fig.19) is used to seal the coil at the opening into the cyl-
inder head.
(1) Depending on which coil is being removed, the
throttle body air intake tube or intake box may need
to be removed to gain access to coil.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector from coil by
pushing downward on release lock on top of connec-
tor and pull connector from coil.
(3) Clean area at base of coil with compressed air
before removal.
(4) Remove coil mounting nut from mounting stud
(Fig. 18).
(5) Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head open-
ing with a slight twisting action.
(6) Remove coil from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
2.4L
(1) Position coil to engine.
(2) Install 4 mounting bolts. Refer to torque speci-
fications.
(3) Install secondary cables.
(4) Install electrical connector at rear of coil.
(5) Install air cleaner tube and housing.
3.7L
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or con-
taminants from around top of spark plug.
(2) Check condition of coil o-ring and replace as
necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring.
Fig. 17 IGNITION COIL - 2.4L
1 - IGNITION COIL
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
8I - 10 IGNITION CONTROLKJ
IGNITION COIL (Continued)

ASH RECEIVER LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT
SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, DRIVER AIRBAG,
PASSENGER AIRBAG, SEAT BELT TENSIONER,
FRONT IMPACT SENSORS, SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG,
OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS
OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE
BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN
WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACI-
TOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FUR-
THER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY
SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINT SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the center bezel from the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
INSTRUMENT PANEL CENTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) While pulling the ash receiver lamp unit away
from the top of the ash receiver housing, from inside
the housing carefully release the four integral latches
that secure the lamp unit to the mounting hole in the
top of the housing.
(4) Remove the ash receiver lamp unit from the
top of the ash receiver housing (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT
SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, DRIVER AIRBAG,
PASSENGER AIRBAG, SEAT BELT TENSIONER,
FRONT IMPACT SENSORS, SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG,
OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS
OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE
BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN
WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACI-
TOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FUR-
THER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY
SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL
RESTRAINT SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Align the four integral latches of the ash
receiver lamp unit to the mounting hole on the top of
the ash receiver housing (Fig. 3).
(2) Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly
on the ash receiver lamp unit until the four integral
latches snap into place in the ash receiver housing
mounting hole.
(3) Reinstall the center bezel onto the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
INSTRUMENT PANEL CENTER BEZEL - INSTAL-
LATION).
(4) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
CARGO LAMP BULB
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Using a small thin-bladed screwdriver, gently
pry outward on either side near the top of the cargo
lamp lens until the lens pivot unsnaps from the pivot
pin within the lamp unit housing (Fig. 4).
(3) Move the cargo lamp lens upward far enough
to disengage the switch tab at the bottom of the lens
from between the switch plunger and the lamp unit
housing.
(4) Remove the cargo lamp lens from the lamp
unit housing.
(5) Firmly grasp the cargo lamp bulb and pull each
end outward until it is disengaged from its respective
bulb holder within the lamp unit housing (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the cargo lamp bulb from the lamp
unit housing.
Fig. 3 Ash Receiver Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - CENTER BEZEL
2 - ASH RECEIVER HOUSING
3 - ASH RECEIVER LAMP UNIT
8L - 72 LAMPS/LIGHTING - INTERIORKJ