Body JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual

(3) Push the cables thru the floor and seat the
grommets.
(4) Reconnect the two cables to the front mount.
(5) Install the cable saddle bracket (Fig. 47).
(6) Lay the carpet back down in the rear.
(7) Install the rear seat (Refer to 23 - BODY/
SEATS/SEAT - INSTALLATION).
(8) Remove the lock out device on the lever.
(9) Test the parking brake.
LEVER
REMOVAL
The center floor console must be removed to service
the parking brake lever,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERI-
OR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL) .
(1) Lock out the parking brakes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE - ADJUSTMENTS).
(2) Disengage the front cables from the equalizer
(Fig. 49).
(3) Disconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire
(Fig. 49).
(4) Remove the parking brake lever assembly
mounting bolts (Fig. 50).
(5) Remove the lever assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the parking brake lever assembly.
(2) Install the parking brake lever assembly to the
mounting bolts. Tighten (Fig. 50).
Install the center floor console, (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLA-
TION).
(3) Engage the front cables to the equalizer (Fig.
49).(4) Reconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire
(Fig. 49).
(5) If installing a new parking brake lever remove
the pin that come on the lever when shipped.
(6) If you are reinstalling the original park brake
lever remove the lock out device at this time.
(7) Test the parking brake lever. (Fig. 50).
Fig. 48 CABLE FRONT MOUNT
1 - RETAINER CLIPS
2 - CABLES
Fig. 49 PARKING BRAKE LEVER
1 - PARK BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY
2 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 50 LEVER MOUNT
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - PARK BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY
3 - CABLE
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
CABLES (Continued)

BRAKES - ABS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION.........................32
OPERATION...........................32
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ANTILOCK
BRAKING SYSTEM....................33
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING...........................33
SPECIFICATIONS.......................33
ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION.........................34
OPERATION...........................34FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................34
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................35
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
DESCRIPTION.........................35
OPERATION...........................35
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM
The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent
wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip. Pre-
venting lockup helps maintain vehicle braking action
and steering control.
The antilock CAB activates the system whenever
sensor signals indicate periods of high wheel slip.
High wheel slip can be described as the point where
wheel rotation begins approaching 20 to 30 percent of
actual vehicle speed during braking. Periods of high
wheel slip occur when brake stops involve high pedal
pressure and rate of vehicle deceleration.
Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB ignition ter-
minal when the ignition switch is turned to Run posi-
tion. The CAB performs a system initialization
procedure at this point. Initialization consists of a
static and dynamic self check of system electrical
components.
The static check occurs after the ignition switch is
turned to Run position. The dynamic check occurs
when vehicle road speed reaches approximately 30
kph (18 mph). During the dynamic check, the CAB
briefly cycles the pump and solenoids to verify oper-
ation.
If an ABS component exhibits a fault during ini-
tialization, the CAB illuminates the amber warning
light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor
memory.
ELECTRONIC BRAKE DISTRIBUTION
The electronic brake distribution (EBD) functions
like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD system usesthe ABS system to control the slip of the rear wheels
in partial braking range. The braking force of the
rear wheels is controlled electronically by using the
inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU.
OPERATION
ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM
During normal braking, the master cylinder, power
booster and wheel brake units all function as they
would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU compo-
nents are not activated.
During antilock braking fluid pressure is modu-
lated according to wheel speed, degree of slip and
rate of deceleration. A sensor at each wheel converts
wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are
transmitted to the CAB for processing and determi-
nation of wheel slip and deceleration rate.
The ABS system has three fluid pressure control
channels. The front brakes are controlled separately
and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input
signal indicating a high slip condition activates the
CAB antilock program. Two solenoid valves are used
in each antilock control channel. The valves are all
located within the HCU valve body and work in pairs
to either increase, hold, or decrease apply pressure as
needed in the individual control channels. The sole-
noid valves are not static during antilock braking.
They are cycled continuously to modulate pressure.
Solenoid cycle time in antilock mode can be mea-
sured in milliseconds.
ELECTRONIC BRAKE DISTRIBUTION
Upon entry into EBD the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure the outlet valve for
5 - 32 BRAKES - ABSKJ

REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Disconnect the sensor wire harness.
(3) Remove mounting stud from the sensor (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect harness to sensor.Be sure seal is
securely in place between sensor and wiring
connector.
(2) Install O-ring on sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert sensor in differential housing.
(4) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
9 N´m (80 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the sensor electical connector.
(6) Lower vehicle.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor,
and wire harness.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid
released to the system for ABS mode operation. The
pump provides the fluid volume needed and is oper-
ated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by
the CAB.The valves modulate brake pressure during
antilock braking and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed. The valves are not
static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to
modulate pressure and control wheel slip and decel-
eration.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase,
pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is
closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control chan-
nel is maintained at a constant rate. The CAB main-
tains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a
pressure change is necessary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is
closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pres-
sure increase cycle is used to counteract unequal
wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of
fluid apply pressure due to changing road surfaces or
wheel speed.
Fig. 2 REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
KJBRAKES - ABS 5 - 35

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD........................1INSTALLATION - RHD.....................1
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD
(1) Remove the air box (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
REMOVAL).
(2) Relocate the cruise control servo to gain access
to the booster for removal.
(3) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the master cylinder (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(6) Remove knee blocker under the steering colum-
n,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE
BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the brake light switch.(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove nuts attaching booster to the dash
panel (Fig. 2).(10) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Align and position booster on the dash panel.
(2) Install booster mounting nuts. Tighten nuts
just enough to hold booster in place.
(3) Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal.
Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining
clip.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-
mileage grease before installation.
(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 39 N´m (29
ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the brake light switch.
(6) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(8) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
Fig. 1 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - BOOSTER ROD
Fig. 2 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - BRAKE BOOSTER
KJBRAKES 5s - 1

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD........................1INSTALLATION - RHD.....................1
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD
(1) Remove the air box (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
REMOVAL).
(2) Relocate the cruise control servo to gain access
to the booster for removal.
(3) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the master cylinder (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(6) Remove knee blocker under the steering colum-
n,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE
BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the brake light switch.(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove nuts attaching booster to the dash
panel (Fig. 2).(10) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Align and position booster on the dash panel.
(2) Install booster mounting nuts. Tighten nuts
just enough to hold booster in place.
(3) Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal.
Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining
clip.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-
mileage grease before installation.
(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 39 N´m (29
ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the brake light switch.
(6) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(8) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
Fig. 1 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - BOOSTER ROD
Fig. 2 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - BRAKE BOOSTER
KJBRAKES 5s - 1

On a Dual Mass Flywheel the additional secondary
mass coupled to the transmission lowers the natural
frequency of the transmission rotating elements. This
decreases the transmission gear rattle. The damper
springs between the two flywheel masses replace the
clutch disc damper springs and assist in a smooth
transfer of torque to the transmission.
CAUTION: The Dual Mass Flywheel is serviced as
an assembly only and should never be taken apart.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing with an internal (blind
hole) puller.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease or equivalent.
(2) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig. 5).
(3) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(4) Install clutch disc and pressure plate.
(5) Install the transmission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 6).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips, if
applicable.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight to avoid spilling fluid during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts
(Fig. 7).
(8) Disengage captured bushing on clutch master
cylinder actuator from pivot pin on pedal arm.
Fig. 5 Pilot Bearing Installer
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHKJ
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(9) Slide actuator off pivot pin.
(10) Disconnect clutch interlock safety switch
wires.(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through
engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Be sure reservoir cover on clutch master cylin-
der is tight to avoid spills.
(2) Position clutch linkage components in vehicle.
Work connecting line and slave cylinder downward
past engine and adjacent to clutch housing.
(3) Position clutch master cylinder on dash panel.
(4) Attach clutch master cylinder actuator to pivot
pin on clutch pedal.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder
attaching nuts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.).
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch
housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap
on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body and transmis-
sion clips.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect clutch interlock safety switch wires.
MASTER CYLINDER
INSPECTION
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
Fig. 6 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 7 CLUTCH PEDAL
1 - CYLINDER
2 - ACTUATOR SHAFT
3 - ACTUATOR EYE
4 - PEDAL PIN
5 - CONNECTOR
KJCLUTCH 6 - 9
LINKAGE (Continued)

SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (ONE OR MORE
RIBS HAS SEPARATED FROM
BELT BODY)1. Foreign objects imbedded in pulley
grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage. 2. Replace belt.
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley(s) misaligned. 1. Align pulley(s).
2. Abrasive environment. 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary.
3. Rusted pulley(s). 3. Clean rust from pulley(s).
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove tips. 4. Replace pulley.
5. Rubber deteriorated. 5. Replace belt.
LONGITUDINAL BELT
CRACKING (CRACKS BETWEEN
TWO RIBS)1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove.1. Replace belt.
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member.2. Replace belt.
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of insufficient
tension.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt or pulley subjected to
substance (belt dressing, oil ethylene
glycol) that has reduced friction.4. Replace belt and clean pulleys.
5. Driven component bearing failure. 5. Replace faulty component
bearing.
6. Belt glazed and hardened from
heat and excessive slippage.6. Replace belt.
ªGROOVE JUMPING9(BELT
DOES NOT MAINTAIN CORRECT
POSITION ON PULLEY)1. Belt tension either too high or too
low.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly.
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance.4. Replace pulley(s).
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. 5. Remove foreign objects from
grooves.
6. Pulley misalignment. 6. Check and replace.
7. Belt cord line is broken. 7. Replace belt.
7 - 16 ACCESSORY DRIVEKJ
ACCESSORY DRIVE (Continued)

REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR. REFER TO COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN-
ING.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 6). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 7). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 8). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 6 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 7 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 8 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE 7 - 23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 9). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary toremove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 9 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7 - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)