Light JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual
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Page 1302 of 1803

crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).Refer to the Engine Mechanical and the Engine
Performance diagnostic charts, for possible causes
and corrections of malfunctions (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MECHANICAL)
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
- PERFORMANCE).
For fuel system diagnosis, (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
KJENGINE9s-5
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)
Page 1306 of 1803

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
KJENGINE9s-9
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)
Page 1328 of 1803

shown in (Fig. 34). Refer to for Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). Correct
piston to bore clearance must be established in order
to assure quiet and economical operation.
NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be mea-
sured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended toolC-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 36).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.
CAUTION: Ensure all abrasives are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore
can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean.
Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
Fig. 34 Checking Cylinder Bore -Typical
Fig. 35 Piston Measurement - Typical
Fig. 36 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
KJENGINE9s-31
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1352 of 1803

TIMING BELT AND
SPROCKET(S)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - TIMING BELT
(1) Remove air cleaner upper cover, housing, and
clean air tube.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT TENSION-
ERS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove air conditioner/generator belt tensioner
and pulley assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - REMOVAL)
(6) Remove timing belt lower front cover bolts and
remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Remove bolts attaching timing belt upper front
cover and remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL)
CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft
timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft.
Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is
removed. Damage to valve components may occur.
Always align timing marks before removing timing
belt.
(9) Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate
crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing
aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket
(trailing edge of sprocket tooth) (Fig. 95).
NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is
located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth.
Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to
TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause the cam-
shaft timing marks to be misaligned.
(10) Install 6 mm Allen wrench into belt tensioner.
Before rotating the tensioner, insert the long end of a
1/8º or 3 mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the
front of the tensioner (Fig. 96). While rotating the
tensioner counterclockwise, push in lightly on the
1/8º or 3 mm Allen wrench, until it slides into the
locking hole.
(11) Remove timing belt.
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove crankshaft sprocket using Special
Tools 6793 and insert C-4685-C2 (Fig. 97).
CLEANING
Do Not attempt to clean a timing belt. If contami-
nation from oil, grease, or coolants have occurred, the
timing belt should be replaced.
Clean all sprockets using a suitable solvent. Clean
all sprocket grooves of any debris.
Fig. 95 Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing
1 - CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS
2 - CRANKSHAFT TDC MARKS
3 - TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH
KJENGINE9s-55
Page 1360 of 1803

(9) With balance shaft keyways pointing up (12
o'clock) slide the balance shaft sprocket onto the nose
of the balance shaft. The balance shaft may have to
be pushed in slightly to allow for clearance.
NOTE: THE TIMING MARK ON THE SPROCKET, THE
(LOWER) NICKEL PLATED LINK, AND THE ARROW
ON THE SIDE OF THE GEAR COVER SHOULD LINE
UP WHEN THE BALANCE SHAFTS ARE TIMED
CORRECTLY.
(10) If the sprockets are timed correctly, install the
balance shaft bolts and tighten to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.). A wood block placed between crankcase and
crankshaft counterbalance will prevent crankshaft
and gear rotation.(11)CHAIN TENSIONING:
(a) Install chain tensioner loosely assembled.
(b) Position guide on double ended stud making
sure tab on the guide fits into slot on the gear
cover. Install and tighten nut/washer assembly to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(c) Place a shim 1 mm (0.039 in.) thick x 70 mm
(2.75 in.) long or between tensioner and chain.
Push tensioner and shim up against the chain.
Apply firm pressure 2.5±3 Kg (5.5±6.6 lbs.)
directly behind the adjustment slot to take up
all slack.Chain must have shoe radius contact as
shown in (Fig. 115).
(d) With the load applied, tighten top tensioner
bolt first, then bottom pivot bolt. Tighten bolts to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.). Remove shim.
(e) Install carrier covers and tighten screws to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(12) Install pick-up tube and oil pan.
(13) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
Fig. 114 Balance Shaft Timing
1 - MARK ON SPROCKET
2 - KEYWAYS UP
3 - ALIGN MARKS
4 - PLATED LINK
5 - PARTING LINE (BEDPLATE TO BLOCK)
6 - PLATED LINK
Fig. 115 Chain Tension Adjustment
1 - 1MM (0.039 IN.) SHIM
2 - TENSIONER (ADJUSTER) BOLT
3 - PIVOT BOLT
KJENGINE9s-63
BALANCE SHAFT (Continued)
Page 1362 of 1803

EXHAUST SYSTEM
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
EXHAUST SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION..........................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST
SYSTEM.............................2
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER.....2
REMOVAL.............................2
INSPECTION...........................3
INSTALLATION..........................3CROSS-OVER PIPE
REMOVAL.............................3
INSTALLATION..........................3
HEAT SHIELDS
DESCRIPTION..........................4
MUFFLER
DESCRIPTION..........................4
REMOVAL.............................5
INSTALLATION..........................5
EXHAUST SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The basic exhaust system consists of an engine
exhaust manifold, exhaust down pipe, exhaust pipe,
exhaust heat shield(s), muffler and exhaust tailpipe
The exhaust system uses a single muffler.
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to
prevent stress, leakage and body contact. If the sys-
tem contacts any body panel, it will transfer objec-
tionable noises originating from the engine to the
body.
When inspecting an exhaust system, critically
inspect for cracked or loose joints, stripped screw or
bolt threads, corrosion damage and worn, cracked orbroken hangers. Replace all components that are
badly corroded or damaged. DO NOT attempt to
repair.
When replacement is required, use original equip-
ment parts (or equivalent). This will assure proper
alignment and provide acceptable exhaust noise lev-
els.
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention com-
pounds or undercoating materials to exhaust sys-
tem floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray
near the edges is permitted. Application of coating
will result in excessive floor pan temperatures and
objectionable fumes.
KJEXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 1
Page 1368 of 1803

EXHAUST SYSTEM
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
EXHAUST SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION..........................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST
SYSTEM.............................2
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER.....2
REMOVAL.............................2
INSPECTION...........................3
INSTALLATION..........................3CROSS-OVER PIPE
REMOVAL.............................4
INSTALLATION..........................4
HEAT SHIELDS
DESCRIPTION..........................4
MUFFLER
DESCRIPTION..........................4
REMOVAL.............................4
INSTALLATION..........................5
EXHAUST SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The basic exhaust system consists of an engine
exhaust manifold, exhaust down pipe, exhaust pipe,
exhaust heat shield(s), muffler and exhaust tailpipe
The exhaust system uses a single muffler.
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to
prevent stress, leakage and body contact. If the sys-
tem contacts any body panel, it will transfer objec-
tionable noises originating from the engine to the
body.
When inspecting an exhaust system, critically
inspect for cracked or loose joints, stripped screw or
bolt threads, corrosion damage and worn, cracked orbroken hangers. Replace all components that are
badly corroded or damaged. DO NOT attempt to
repair.
When replacement is required, use original equip-
ment parts (or equivalent). This will assure proper
alignment and provide acceptable exhaust noise lev-
els.
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention com-
pounds or undercoating materials to exhaust sys-
tem floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray
near the edges is permitted. Application of coating
will result in excessive floor pan temperatures and
objectionable fumes.
KJEXHAUST SYSTEM 11s - 1
Page 1374 of 1803

FRAMES & BUMPERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL.............................1
INSTALLATION..........................2
REAR FASCIA
REMOVAL.............................2
INSTALLATION..........................2
REAR FASCIA SUPPORT
REMOVAL.............................3
INSTALLATION..........................3
FRAME
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - FRAME DIMENSIONS . . . 3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............6
FRONT SKID PLATE
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................6
ENGINE CRADLE CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................6TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
REAR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
FRONT TOW HOOK
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
REAR TOW HOOK
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
TRAILER HITCH
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9
FUEL TANK SKID PLATE
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the grille. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL)
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheel opening flare moldings.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL
OPENING FLARE MOLDINGS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the four screws through the lower air
dam (Fig. 1).
(5) Disconnect the electrical connectors:
²Fascia to grille opening reinforcement. (Fig. 1)
²Side repeater lights, both sides, if equipped.
(Fig. 2)
(6) Remove the six push pins from the grill sup-
port.
(7) Remove the rivets attaching the air dam to the
wheelhouse splash shield.
(8) Release the support tabs beneath the head-
lamps.
(9) Release the inner support clips from within the
fascia between the lights (Fig. 2).
(10) Remove the fascia.
Fig. 1 FRONT FASCIA
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - PUSH PINS
3 - FRONT FASCIA ASSEMBLY
4 - LOWER SCREWS
5 - PLASTIC RIVETS (2)
6 - INNER SUPPORT CLIPS
7 - SUPPORT TABS
KJFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 1
Page 1375 of 1803

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fascia.
(2) Connect the electrical connectors.
²Side repeater lights, both sides, if equipped.
²Fascia to grille opening reinforcement.
(3) Install the six push pin fasteners into the grill
support.
(4) Install the four screws through the lower air
damn.
(5) Install new rivets attaching the air dam to the
wheelhouse splash shield.
(6) Install the front wheel opening flare moldings.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDING - INSTALLATION)
(7) Install the grille. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION)
REAR FASCIA
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wheel flares (rear). (Refer to 23 -
BODY/EXTERIOR/REAR WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDINGS - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the rear lamp units. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
REAR LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)(3) Remove the four side bolts. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the four bottom rivets.
(5) Remove the 3 bolts along the upper edge.
(6) Separate the side plastic retainers and remove
the fascia from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Fascia must be pushed completely forward
to allow the plastic retainers full engagement in
their respective slots.
(1) Install the fascia and insert the plastic retain-
ers.
(2) Install the three upper bolts.
(3) Install the four side bolts.
(4) Install four bottom rivets.
(5) Install the rear lamp units. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/REAR
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the rear half wheel opening flares.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDING - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 2 FASCIA INNER SUPPORT
1 - INNER SUPPORT CLIP
2 - SIDE REPEATER CONNECTOR (IF EQUIPPED)
3 - FASCIA ASSEMBLY
4 - FOG LAMP
Fig. 3 REAR FASCIA
1 - REAR FASCIA ASSEMBLY
2 - PLASTIC RETAINERS
3 - FASCIA SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - SIDE BOLTS
5 - RIVETS
6 - UPPER BOLTS
13 - 2 FRAMES & BUMPERSKJ
FRONT FASCIA (Continued)
Page 1382 of 1803

TRAILER HITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tow hooks, if equipped. (Refer to 13
- FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/REAR TOW HOOK
- REMOVAL)
(2) Disconnect trailer electrical connector.
(3) Support the hitch with a suitable lifting device.
(4) Remove the bolts and remove the trailer hitch.
(Fig. 12)
INSTALLATION
(1) Support the hitch with a suitable lifting device
and install the hitch.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft.
lbs.)
(3) Connect the electrical connector.
FUEL TANK SKID PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the skid plate with a suitable lifting
device.
(3) Remove the trailer hitch, if equipped. (Refer to
13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRAILER
HITCH - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the tow hooks, if not previously
removed. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/
FRAME/REAR TOW HOOK - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the bolts and remove the fuel tank
skid plate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the skid plate and support with a suit-
able lifting device.(2) Install the trailer hitch, if equipped. (Refer to
13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRAILER
HITCH - INSTALLATION)
(3) Install the tow hooks, if equipped. (Refer to 13
- FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/REAR TOW HOOK
- INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 12 TRAILER HITCH
1 - BOLTS
2 - TRAILER LIGHTS ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3 - TRAILER HITCH
KJFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 9