Oil JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Guide

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on brake pedal to keep pres-
sure on the brake system.
(2) Remove reservoir cap and siphon fluid into
drain container.
(3) Remove the electrical connector from the fluid
level switch in the reservoir.
(4) Remove the reservoir mounting bolt.
(5) Remove the reservoir from the master cylinder
by pulling upwards.
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill and bleed master cylinder on bench before
installation in vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(2) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake fluid
and Install new grommets in cylinder body. Use fin-
ger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(3) Start reservoir in grommets. Then rock reser-
voir back and forth while pressing downward to seat
it in grommets.
(4) Install the mounting bolt for the reservoir to
the master cylinder.
(5) Reconnect the electrical connector to the fluid
reservoir level switch.(6) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(7) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - MASTER
CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and cap
before adding fluid. This will prevent dirt from fall-
ing in the reservoir and contaminating the brake
fluid.
The reservoir has a ADD and a FULL mark on the
side (Fig. 42) fill to the FULL mark.
Fig. 41 MASTER CYLINDER
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - BOOSTER
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - FLUID LEVEL MARKS
Fig. 42 TYPICAL - MASTER CYLINDER FLUID
LEVEL
1 - FLUID LEVEL MARKS
2 - RESERVOIR
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEKJ
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container will absorb moisture from the air
and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
DRUM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge.
Generally, a drum can be machined to a maximum of
1.52 mm (0.060 in.) oversize. Always replace the
drum if machining would cause drum diameter to
exceed the size limit indicated on the drum.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu-
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure-
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe
and checking variation and runout with a dial indi-
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Drum runout should not exceed
0.20 mm (0.008 in.) out of round. Machine the drum
if runout or variation exceed these values. Replace
the drum if machining causes the drum to exceed the
maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING
The brake drums can be machined on a drum lathe
when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be lim-
ited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as
heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm(0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will gen-
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should
always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum
outer edge.
CAUTION: Replace the drum if machining will cause
the drum to exceed the maximum allowable diame-
ter.
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 198 RBI AXLE
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove the brake drum.
(3) Remove the brake shoes.
(4) Remove parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(5) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs.
Then push retainer and cable through and out of
support plate.
(6) Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder.
(7) Remove wheel cylinder from support plate,(Re-
fer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
WHEEL CYLINDERS - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the four bolts attaching the support
plate to axle and remove the support plate with the
axle, bearing and seal.
(9) Remove axle shaft,(Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE/AXLE SHAFTS -
REMOVAL).
REMOVAL - 8 1/4 AXLE
(1) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove the brake drum.
(3) Install the brake pedal prop rod.
(4) Remove the brake shoes (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- REMOVAL).
(5) Remove parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(6) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs.
Then push retainer and cable through and out of
support plate.
(7) Disconnect the brake line at wheel cylinder.
(8) Remove the wheel cylinder from the support
plate,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/WHEEL CYLINDERS - REMOVAL).
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
FLUID (Continued)

WARNING
WARNING:: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS
WITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds. Shift the trans-
mission through all gear ranges and observe clutch
action. If the clutch chatters, grabs, slips or does not
release properly, remove and inspect the clutch com-
ponents. If the problem is noise or hard shifting, fur-
ther diagnosis may be needed as the transmission or
another driveline component may be at fault.
NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a Dual Mass Fly-
wheel may produce a rattle when the engine is shut
off. This noise is considered normal.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab. Inspect components for oil, hydraulic
fluid or water/road splash contamination.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Clutch
fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave cylinder
push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slippage
between the pressure plate, disc and flywheel can
bake the oil residue onto the components. The glaze-
like residue ranges in color from amber to black.Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering
the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks.
Driving through deep water puddles can force water/
road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems are caused
by wear or damage clutch components. A visual
inspection of the release components will usually
reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and
noise. Look for leaks at the clutch cylinders and
interconnecting line and loose slave cylinder bolts.
Also worn/loose release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc,
pressure plate or release bearing.
Engagement problems can result in slip, chatter/
shudder and noisy operation. The causes may be
clutch disc contamination, wear, distortion or fly-
wheel damage. Visually inspect to determine the
actual cause of the problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
6 - 2 CLUTCHKJ
CLUTCH (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can alsoweaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction. Con-
ditions, causes and corrective action are outlined in
the indicated columns.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
Flywheel below minimum thickness
specification.1. Improper flywheel machining.
Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.1. Replace flywheel.
Clutch disc, cover and/or diaphragm
spring warped or distorted.1. Rough handling. Impact bent
cover, spring, or disc.1. Replace disc or cover as
necessary.
2. Improper bolt tightening
procedure.2. Tighten clutch cover using proper
procedure.
KJCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 3.7L
ENGINE..............................1
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
ROUTING 3.7L ENGINE..................2
DESCRIPTION - HOSE CLAMPS...........2
OPERATION
OPERATION - COOLING SYSTEM.........2
OPERATION - HOSE CLAMPS............3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)...................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS.............................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM LEAKS.......................4DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART.............6
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM 3.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 3.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM - REVERSE FLUSHING..........12
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE............................13
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING...........................14
ACCESSORY DRIVE......................15
ENGINE...............................19
TRANSMISSION.........................32
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 3.7L
ENGINE
The cooling system consists of the following items:
²Electric cooling fan - Standard.
²Electric cooling fan and mechanical thermal vis-
cous fan with low disengaged - Heavy duty cooling
only²Radiator
²Hot bottle pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Radiator in-tank transmission oil cooler (if
equipped with an automatic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
KJCOOLING 7 - 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 3).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat fornicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 4).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
Fig. 3 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 4 COOLINGKJ
COOLING (Continued)

the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 124 KPA (18 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
KJCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator.
7. Coolant not flowing through
system.7. (a) Check condition of pressure
bottle cap and cap seals. (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
(b) Check condition of radiator vent
nipple. If neck is damaged, replace
radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from
the radiator to the coolant tank. It
should fit tight at both ends without
any kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check pressure bottle/overflow
tank and tanks hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant concentration 8. Check coolant. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT -
DESCRIPTION) for correct
coolant/water mixture ratio.
9. Fan installed backwards on
viscous drive.9. Mount fan on drive correctly.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Remove insects and debris.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR - CLEANING).
11. Radiator core is corroded or
plugged.11. Have radiator re-cored or
replaced.
12. Fuel or ignition system
problems.12. Refer to FUEL and /or
IGNITION CONTROL for diagnosis.
13. Dragging brakes. 13. Check and correct as
necessary. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
correct procedures.
14. Bug screen or cardboard is
being used, reducing airflow.14. Remove bug screen or
cardboard.
KJCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head
gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam emitting
from the exhaust system. Repair as
necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to build
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as
necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in pressure
bottle cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seals. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as
necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY
NOT BE READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture is too rich or too
lean.2. Check coolant concentration.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT - DESCRIPTION) and
adjust ratio as required.
KJCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)

SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (ONE OR MORE
RIBS HAS SEPARATED FROM
BELT BODY)1. Foreign objects imbedded in pulley
grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage. 2. Replace belt.
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley(s) misaligned. 1. Align pulley(s).
2. Abrasive environment. 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary.
3. Rusted pulley(s). 3. Clean rust from pulley(s).
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove tips. 4. Replace pulley.
5. Rubber deteriorated. 5. Replace belt.
LONGITUDINAL BELT
CRACKING (CRACKS BETWEEN
TWO RIBS)1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove.1. Replace belt.
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member.2. Replace belt.
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of insufficient
tension.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt or pulley subjected to
substance (belt dressing, oil ethylene
glycol) that has reduced friction.4. Replace belt and clean pulleys.
5. Driven component bearing failure. 5. Replace faulty component
bearing.
6. Belt glazed and hardened from
heat and excessive slippage.6. Replace belt.
ªGROOVE JUMPING9(BELT
DOES NOT MAINTAIN CORRECT
POSITION ON PULLEY)1. Belt tension either too high or too
low.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly.
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance.4. Replace pulley(s).
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. 5. Remove foreign objects from
grooves.
6. Pulley misalignment. 6. Check and replace.
7. Belt cord line is broken. 7. Replace belt.
7 - 16 ACCESSORY DRIVEKJ
ACCESSORY DRIVE (Continued)