removing JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Repair Manual

(19) Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
(20) Refill the cooling system.
(21) Raise the vehicle.
(22) Install the exhaust pipe onto the right
exhaust manifold.
(23) Lower the vehicle.
(24) Reconnect battery negitive cable.
(25) Start the engine and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT(S)
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel
lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four
bearing journals are machined into the camshaft.
Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls
that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters
the hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubri-
cates every intake lobe rocker through a drilled pas-
sage in the intake lobe.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8379
will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over exten-
sion, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set
the tensioner ratchet.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to CYL-
INDER HEAD COVER in this section.
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could
cause a vehicle no start condition.
(4) Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against
sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
(5) Position Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge
between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the ten-
sioner arm and guide.
(6) Remove the camshaft position sensor.
(7) Hold the camshaft with Special Tool 8428 Cam-
shaft Wrench, while removing the camshaft sprocket
bolt and sprocket.
(8) Starting at the outside working inward, loosen
the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at
a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps.
CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAM-
SHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL
OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS.
NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker
arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms
before removing camshaft.
(9) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the
camshaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine
oil.
NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the
camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock
position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral
position easing the installation of the camshaft
bearing caps.
(2) Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
(3) Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten
the retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the
stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical
order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the
engine. All caps should be installed so that the
stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front
of the engine.
(4) Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the
bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle
cap working outward (Fig. 23).
(5) Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 33
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.69 mm (1.602 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer.
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves (Fig. 27).
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
(7) Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts. Tighten the bolts 9±13 N´m (100 in. lbs.) in ó
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 28).
(8) Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and
rocker arms.
Fig. 26 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
Fig. 27 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
9 - 36 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate (Fig. 31) is
bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant
flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal
coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is
included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honingoil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 32).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Fig. 31 CYLINDER BLOCK BEDPLATE
1 - Cylinder Block Bedplate
2 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
3 - Crankshaft Main Bearing Caps
Fig. 32 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 39

REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. Refer to Engine Assembly
in this section for procedure.
(2) Remove the engine oil pump. Refer to Oil
Pump in this section for procedure.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the two stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are shown below.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 41) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinderblock main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.
(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washer for scor-
ing, scratches or blueing. If either condition exist
replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. Refer to
Crankshaft Main Bearings in this section for proper
bearing selections.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
(2) Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 22 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 42).
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface must be coated with MoparTEngine RTV
sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will
cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopart
Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate
mating surface as shown.
(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 43
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 48), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool
8349±2 (Fig. 49) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then
position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 50),
with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to
tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
Fig. 48 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
Fig. 49 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Guide Special Tool
8349±2 and Oil
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±2 GUIDE
Fig. 50 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
9 - 48 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ

90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage. Refer to Engine
Specifications for the proper clearance.Plastigage
should indicate the same clearance across the
entire width of the insert. If the clearance var-
ies, it may be caused by either a tapered jour-
nal, bent connecting rod or foreign material
trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace-
ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove
the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing
insert. Proceed with installation.
(8) If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the
specification, determin which services bearing set to
use the bearing sizes are as follows:
Bearing
MarkSIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 57.871-57.879 mm
(.001 in.) (2.2783-2.2786 in.)
Std.STANDARD 57.896-57.904 mm
(2.2793-2.2810 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 57.646-57.654 mm
(.010 in.) (2.2695-2.2698 in.)
(9) Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify
your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
(10) Once you have selected the proper insert,
install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90É turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the con-
necting rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.
Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is
not within specification.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (
.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to
the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point
B (Fig. 54).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.(4) The coating material is applied to the piston
after the final piston machining process. Measuring
the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro-
vide accurate results (Fig. 53). Therefore measuring
the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial
Bore Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of
reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
(5) Piston installation into the cylinder bore
requires slightly more pressure than that required
for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the
piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit
with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the following components:
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
²Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores
with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons
from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops of pis-
tons covered during this operation.Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder
block. When removing piston and connecting rod
Fig. 53 Moly Coated Piston - Typical
1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
9 - 50 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch
to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to
connecting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not
interchangeable and should be marked before
removing to ensure correct reassembly.
(4) Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine
damage may occur.
(5) Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool
8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod
being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore.
Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crank-
shaft journals, as engine damage may occur
(6) Immediately after piston and connecting rod
removal, install bearing cap on the mating connect-
ing rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and
rod surfaces.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abra-
sive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or con-
necting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this
coating must not be damaged.
(1) Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pis-
tons in warm water and towel dry.
(2) Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring
land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the
piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
(2) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
(3) Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure
that tabs in bearing shell aligns with slots in con-
necting rod. Verify that parting line of bearing is
aligned with parting line of connecting rod.
(4) Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
(5) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod
Guides into connecting rod bolt threads (Fig. 55).
(6) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore
surface with an raised ªFº indicating installation
position. This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connect-
ing rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine
(Fig. 56).
(7) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with
engine oil.
(8) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal
is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis-
Fig. 54 Bore Gauge - Typical
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 51
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 90).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
Fig. 88 EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELDS
1 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
3 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
Fig. 89 EXHAUST MANIFOLD RIGHT
1 - Heat Shield
2 - Nuts
3 - Manifold Flange
Fig. 90 EXHAUST MANIFOLD LEFT
1 - Heat Shield
2 - Nuts
3 - Manifold Flange
9 - 70 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain, two secondary
timing chain drives and a counterbalance shaft drive.
OPERATION
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
chain type. The primary chain drives the large 40
tooth idler sprocket directly from a 20 tooth crank-shaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by
a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed
guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic
wear faces for low friction and long wear. The pri-
mary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the
secondary chain drive and designed oil pump leak-
age. The idler sprocket assembly connects the pri-
mary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and the
counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly
consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 40 tooth
sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the
assembly. The spline joint for the 40 tooth sprocket is
a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral
ring is installed on the outboard side of the fifty
tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengagement. The
idler sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler
shaft. The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cyl-
inder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorprates a controled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing
Chain Cover in this section for procedure.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 71
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKET(S
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to COOLING SYS-
TEM for procedures.
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers.
Refer to CYLINDER HEAD COVER.
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM for procedure.
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft
damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(Fig. 103) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke) and the cam-
shaft sprocket ªV6º marks are at the 12 o'clock posi-
tion (Fig. 102).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(6) Remove power steering pump. Refer to STEER-
ING for procedure.
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 104).
(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain
cover. Refer to procedures.
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position and crankshaft
position sensors (Fig. 105) and (Fig. 106).
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77