removing JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual

NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any
remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an
hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in cool-
ant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the
engine cooling system overheats and pushes cool-
ant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this
coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system
ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE
BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the
vacuum path between the two bottle sections and
the coolant will not return to cooling system.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with pressure bottle cap in place.
(4) Add coolant to pressure bottle as necessary.
Only add coolant to the pressure bottle when
the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm
engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. Cool-
ant will normally only be in the outboard (larger) of
the two. The inboard chamber is only to recover
coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent
service fill. The inboard chamber should normally
be empty. If there is coolant in the overflow side of
the coolant bottle (after several warm/cold cycles of
the engine) and coolant level is above cold full
when cold, disconnect the end of the overflow hose
at the fill neck and lower it into a clean container.
Allow coolant to drain into the container until emp-
tied. Reconnect overflow hose to fill neck.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM -
REVERSE FLUSHING
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at
97-to-110 kPa (14-to -16 psi) pressure. Exceeding
this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system. This is done
using air pressure in the opposite direction of normal
coolant flow. It is usually only necessary with very
dirty systems with evidence of partial plugging.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
If visual inspection indicates the formation of
sludge or scaly deposits, use a radiator cleaner
(Mopar Radiator Kleen or equivalent) before flushing.
This will soften scale and other deposits and aid the
flushing operation.
CAUTION: Be sure instructions on the container are
followed.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR
Disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator fit-
tings. Attach a section of radiator hose to the radia-
tor bottom outlet fitting and insert the flushing gun.
Connect a water supply hose and air supply hose to
the flushing gun.
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at
97-to-110 kPa (14- to-16 psi) pressure. Exceeding
this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Allow the radiator to fill with water. When radiator
is filled, apply air in short blasts allowing radiator to
refill between blasts. Continue this reverse flushing
until clean water flows out through rear of radiator
cooling tube passages. For more information, refer to
operating instructions supplied with flushing equip-
ment. Have radiator cleaned more extensively by a
radiator repair shop.
REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat. Install the thermostat hous-
ing. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the
radiator and attach the flushing gun to the hose. Dis-
connect the radiator lower hose from the water
pump. Attach a lead away hose to the water pump
inlet fitting.
CAUTION: Be sure that the heater control valve is
closed (heat off). This is done to prevent coolant
flow with scale and other deposits from entering
the heater core.
Connect the water supply hose and air supply hose
to the flushing gun. Allow the engine to fill with
water. When the engine is filled, apply air in short
blasts, allowing the system to fill between air blasts.
Continue until clean water flows through the lead
away hose. For more information, refer to operating
instructions supplied with flushing equipment.
Remove the lead away hose, flushing gun, water
supply hose and air supply hose. Remove the thermo-
stat housing (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/EN-
GINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL).
Install the thermostat and housing with a replace-
ment gasket (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/EN-
GINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT -
INSTALLATION). Connect the radiator hoses. Refill
the cooling system with the correct antifreeze/water
mixture (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
7s - 12 COOLING - 2.4LKJ
COOLING - 2.4L (Continued)

Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can
cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibi-
tors, causing damage to the various cooling system
components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propy-
lene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle,
conventional methods of determining freeze point will
not be accurate. Both the refractive index and spe-
cific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propy-
lene glycol.
OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol coolant prevents water
present in the cooling system from freezing within
temperatures indicated by mixture ratio of coolant to
water.
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS
CONTAINER
DESCRIPTION
This system works along with the radiator pres-
sure cap. This is done by using thermal expansion
and contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant
free of trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/ad-
justing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover
minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
The coolant reservoir/overflow system has a radia-
tor mounted pressurized cap, an overflow tube, and a
plastic coolant reservoir/overflow tank, mounted to
the right side of the cowl. It is mounted to the cowl
with two nuts on top, and a slide bracket on the bot-
tom.
OPERATION
The pressure chamber keeps the coolant free of
trapped air, provides a volume for expansion and con-
traction, and provides a convenient and safe method
for checking and adjusting coolant level at atmo-
spheric pressure. It also provides some reserve cool-
ant to cover minor leaks, evaporation or boiling
losses. The overflow chamber allows coolant recovery
in case of an overheat.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The block heater is operated by ordinary house
current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and con-
nector located in the engine compartment. The
heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core
hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating ele-
ment immersed in coolant.
CAUTION: The power cord must be secured in its
retainer clips, and not positioned so it could con-
tact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become
damaged.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
REMOVAL - 2.4L
(1) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(4) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION - 2.4L
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly (Fig. 1) with element
loop positionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retaining clips, and not positioned
so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifold.
(4) Connect power cord to heater.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7s - 20 ENGINEKJ
COOLANT (Continued)

Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 5). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 6). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 7). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
Fig. 5 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 6 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 7 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE7s-23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 8). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 8 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7s - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

(9) Remove the accessory drive bracket.
(10) Remove the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- REMOVAL).
(11) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(12) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool
C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt.
Remove both cam sprockets.
(13) Remove the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COV-
ER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Remove water pump to engine attaching
screws (Fig. 15).
INSPECTION
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
wet coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
INSTALLATION - 2.4L ENGINE
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring locating groove (Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in
water pump groove before tightening screws. An
improperly located O-ring may be damaged and
cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.). Pressurize cooling
system to 103.4 Kpa (15 psi) with pressure tester and
check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(5) Install camshaft sprockets and target ring.
Torque bolts to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) while holding
camshaft sprocket with Special tool C-4687 and
adaptor C-4687-1.
(6) Install timing belt idler pulley and torque
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- INSTALLATION).
Fig. 15 Water Pump - 2.4L
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 16 Water Pump Body
1 - IMPELLER
2 - WATER PUMP BODY
3 - O-RING LOCATING GROOVE
7s - 28 ENGINEKJ
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)

(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operat-
ing properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness
connector or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable ter-
minal clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the
illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-
meter amperage reading may remain high for up to
three minutes, or may not give any reading at all
while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The
multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the bat-
tery negative terminal post. If continuity between the
battery negative terminal post and the negative cable
terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated
and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit
breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and
then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until
the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexist-
ent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in
this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse,
circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will
isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the
source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage
reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire
harness from the generator. If the amperage reading
now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charg-
ing System for the proper charging system diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to pro-
gressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-re-
place process to identify and correct all sources of
excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest mil-
liampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-
amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-am-
perage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliam-
peres (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds
thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the
fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace processin Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to
within the acceptable limit when the source of the
excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this
circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect
switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - USING
MIDTRONICS ELECTRICAL TESTER
Always use the Midtronics Instruction Manual that
was supplied with the tester as a reference. If the
Instruction Manual is not available the following pro-
cedure can be used:
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE
PROTECTION AND USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
WORKING WITH BATTERIES.
BATTERY TESTING
(1) If testing the battery OUT-OF-VEHICLE, clean
the battery terminals with a wire brush before test-
ing. If the battery is equipped with side post termi-
nals, install and tighten the supplied lead terminal
stud adapters. Do not use steel bolts. Failure to prop-
erly install the stud adapters, or using stud adapters
that are dirty or worn-out may result in false test
readings.
(2) If testing the battery IN-THE-VEHICLE, make
certain all of the vehicle accessory loads are OFF,
including the ignition.The preferred test position
is at the battery terminal. If the battery is not
accessible, you may test using both the positive and
Fig. 15 MIDTRONICS BATTERY AND CHARGING
SYSTEM TESTER - Micro420
KJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 15
BATTERY (Continued)

negative jumper posts. Select TESTING AT JUMPER
POST when connecting to that location.
(3) Connect the tester to the battery or jumper
posts, the red clamp to positive (+) and the black
clamp to negative (±).
NOTE: Multiple batteries connected in parallel must
have the ground cable disconnected to perform a
battery test. Failure to disconnect may result in
false battery test readings.
NOTE: When testing the battery in a PT Cruiser,
always test at the battery terminals
(4) Using the ARROW key selectinoroutof vehi-
cle testing and press ENTER to make a selection.
(5) If not selected, choose the Cold Cranking Amp
(CCA) battery rating. Or select the appropriate bat-
tery rating for your area (see menu). The tester will
then run its self programmed test of the battery and
display the results. Refer to the test result table
noted below.
CAUTION: If REPLACE BATTERY is the result of the
test, this may mean a poor connection between the
vehicle's cables and battery exists. After discon-
necting the vehicle's battery cables from the bat-
tery, retest the battery using the OUT-OF-VEHICLE
test before replacing.
(6) While viewing the battery test result, press the
CODE button and the tester will prompt you for the
last 4 digits of the VIN. Use the UP/DOWN arrow
buttons to scroll to the correct character; then press
ENTER to select and move to the next digit. Then
press the ENTER button to view the SERVICE
CODE. Pressing the CODE button a second time will
return you to the test results.
BATTERY TEST RESULTS
GOOD BATTERY Return to service
GOOD - RECHARGE Fully charge battery and
return to service
CHARGE & RETEST Fully charge battery and
retest battery
REPLACE BATTERY Replace the battery and
retest complete system
BAD-CELL REPLACE Replace the battery and
retest complete system
NOTE: The SERVICE CODE is required on every
warranty claim submitted for battery replacement.
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post (Fig. 16).
(4) Loosen the battery positive cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(5) Disconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp from the battery positive terminal post. If nec-
essary, use a battery terminal puller to remove the
terminal clamp from the battery post.
(6) Remove the battery holddowns from the bat-
tery. Refer to Battery Holddown for the proper bat-
tery holddown removal procedures.
WARNING: WEAR A SUITABLE PAIR OF RUBBER
GLOVES (NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE) WHEN
REMOVING A BATTERY BY HAND. SAFETY
GLASSES SHOULD ALSO BE WORN. IF THE BAT-
TERY IS CRACKED OR LEAKING, THE ELECTRO-
LYTE CAN BURN THE SKIN AND EYES.
(7) Remove the battery and the battery thermal
guard from the battery tray as a unit.
(8) Remove the battery thermal guard from the
battery case. Refer to Thermal Guard for the proper
battery thermal guard removal procedures.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect all of the battery system
components. Refer to Battery System Cleaning for
the proper cleaning procedures, and refer to Battery
System Inspection for the proper inspection proce-
dures.
Fig. 16 Remove Battery Cable Terminal Clamp -
Typical
1 - BATTERY
2 - BATTERY TERMINAL PULLER
8F - 16 BATTERY SYSTEMKJ
BATTERY (Continued)

GENERATOR
DESCRIPTION
The generator is belt-driven by the engine using a
serpentine type drive belt. It is serviced only as a
complete assembly. If the generator fails for any rea-
son, the entire assembly must be replaced.
OPERATION
As the energized rotor begins to rotate within the
generator, the spinning magnetic field induces a cur-
rent into the windings of the stator coil. Once the
generator begins producing sufficient current, it also
provides the current needed to energize the rotor.
The stator winding connections deliver the induced
AC current to 3 positive and 3 negative diodes for
rectification. From the diodes, rectified DC current is
delivered to the vehicle electrical system through the
generator battery terminal.
Although the generators appear the same exter-
nally, different generators with different output rat-
ings are used on this vehicle. Be certain that the
replacement generator has the same output rating
and part number as the original unit. Refer to Spec-
ifications and see Generator Ratings for amperage
ratings and part numbers.
Noise emitting from the generator may be caused
by: worn, loose or defective bearings; a loose or defec-
tive drive pulley; incorrect, worn, damaged or misad-
justed fan drive belt; loose mounting bolts; a
misaligned drive pulley or a defective stator or diode.
REMOVAL
Gasoline Powered Engines
CAUTION: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM
BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY OUTPUT
WIRE FROM GENERATOR. FAILURE TO DO SO
CAN RESULT IN INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable
at battery.
CAUTION: Never force a belt over a pulley rim
using a screwdriver. The synthetic fiber of the belt
can be damaged.CAUTION: When installing a serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. The
water pump will be rotating in the wrong direction if
the belt is installed incorrectly, causing the engine
to overheat. Refer to belt routing label in engine
compartment, or refer to Belt Schematics in Cooling
System.
(2) Remove generator drive belt. Refer to 7, Cool-
ing System for procedures.
(3) Unsnap plastic protective cover (Fig. 2) from
B+ mounting stud.
(4) Remove B+ terminal mounting nut (Fig. 2) at
top of generator.
(5) Disconnect field wire electrical connector at
rear of generator (Fig. 2) by pushing on connector
tab.
(6) 2.4L Engine: Remove 2 generator mounting
bolts (Fig. 3).
(7) 3.7L Engine: Remove 1 vertical generator
mounting bolt and 2 horizontal mounting bolts (Fig.
4).
(8) Remove generator from vehicle.
Fig. 2 GENERATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS -
TYPICAL
1 - PROTECTIVE CAP
2-B+NUT
3 - B+ TERMINAL
4 - FIELD ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
KJCHARGING SYSTEM 8F - 25

Starting System Diagnosis
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
STARTER ENGAGES,
FAILS TO TURN
ENGINE.1. Battery discharged or
faulty.1. Refer to Battery. Charge or replace battery if required.
2. Starting circuit wiring
faulty.2. Refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams. Test and repair starter
feed and/or control circuits if required.
3. Starter motor faulty. 3. If all other starting system components and circuits test
OK, replace starter motor assembly.
4. Engine seized. 4. Refer to Engine Diagnosis in the Diagnosis and Testing
section of 9, Engine.
STARTER ENGAGES,
SPINS OUT BEFORE
ENGINE STARTS.1. Starter ring gear faulty. 1. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation.
Remove starter motor to inspect starter ring gear.
Replace starter ring gear if required.
2. Starter motor faulty. 2. If all other starting system components and circuits test
OK, replace starter motor assembly.
STARTER DOES NOT
DISENGAGE.1. Starter motor
improperly installed.1. Refer to Starter Motor Removal and Installation.
Tighten starter mounting hardware to correct torque
specifications.
2. Starter relay faulty. 2. Refer to Starter Relay Diagnosis and Testing. Replace
starter relay if required.
3. Ignition switch faulty. 3. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder.
Replace ignition switch if required.
4. Starter motor faulty. 4. If all other starting system components and circuits test
OK, replace starter motor.
INSPECTION
For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer
to 8, Wiring Diagrams. Before removing any unit
from starting system for repair or diagnosis, perform
the following inspections:
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO 8, PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYS-
TEMS, BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
²Battery- Visually inspect battery for indica-
tions of physical damage and loose or corroded cable
connections. Determine state-of-charge and cranking
capacity of battery. Charge or replace battery if
required. Refer toBatteryin 8, Battery.Note: If
equipped with diesel engine, a dual battery sys-
tem may be used, and both batteries must be
inspected.
²Ignition Switch- Visually inspect ignition
switch for indications of physical damage and loose
or corroded wire harness connections. Refer toIgni-
tion Switch and Key Lock Cylinder.²Clutch Pedal Position Switch- If equipped
with manual transmission, visually inspect clutch
pedal position switch for indications of physical dam-
age and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
Refer toClutch Pedal Position Switchin 6,
Clutch.
²Park/Neutral Position Switch- If equipped
with automatic transmission, visually inspect park/
neutral position switch for indications of physical
damage and loose or corroded wire harness connec-
tions. Refer toPark/Neutral Position Switchin
21, Transmission.
²Starter Relay- Visually inspect starter relay
for indications of physical damage and loose or cor-
roded wire harness connections.
²Starter Motor- Visually inspect starter motor
for indications of physical damage and loose or cor-
roded wire harness connections.
²Starter Solenoid- Visually inspect starter sole-
noid for indications of physical damage and loose or
corroded wire harness connections.
²Wiring- Visually inspect wire harnesses for
damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as
required. Refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams.
8F - 34 STARTING SYSTEMKJ
STARTING SYSTEM (Continued)

(2) Follow the instructions in the repair kit for
preparing the damaged area.
(3) Remove the package separator clamp and mix
the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly
within the packaging. Fold the package in half and
cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
(4) For grid line repairs, mask the area to be
repaired with masking tape or a template.
(5) Apply the epoxy through the slit in the mask-
ing tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break
by at least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
(6) For a terminal or pigtail wire replacement,
mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be
extended onto the adjacent grid line as well as the
bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area
where the terminal or pigtail wire was fastened and
onto the adjacent grid line.
(7) Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the
terminal or bare wire end of the pigtail and place it
in the proper location on the bus bar. To prevent the
terminal or pigtail wire from moving while the epoxy
is curing, it must be wedged or clamped.
(8)
Carefully remove the masking tape or template.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed
204É C (400É F) or the glass may fracture.
(9) Allow the epoxy to cure 24 hours at room tem-
perature, or use a heat gun that will not over heat
the glass. Hold the heat gun approximately 25.4 cen-
timeters (10 inches) from the repair.
(10) After the conductive epoxy is properly cured,
remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal or pig-
tail wire. Do not attach the wire harness connectors
until the curing process is complete.
(11) Check the operation of the rear window defog-
ger glass heating grid.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
GRID
DESCRIPTION
The heated rear window glass has two electrically
conductive vertical bus bars and a series of 11 hori-
zontal grid lines made of a silver-ceramic material,
which is baked on and bonded to the inside surface of
the glass. The grid lines and bus bars comprise a
parallel electrical circuit.
OPERATION
When the rear window defogger switch is placed in
the On position, electrical current is directed to the
rear window grid lines through the bus bars. The
grid lines heat the rear window to clear the surface
of fog or snow. Protection for the heated grid circuit
is provided by a fuse in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC).
The grid lines and bus bars are highly resistant to
abrasion. However, it is possible for an open circuit
to occur in an individual grid line, resulting in no
current flow through the line.
The grid lines can be damaged or scraped off with
sharp instruments. Care should be taken when clean-
ing the glass or removing foreign materials, decals,
or stickers from the glass. Normal glass cleaning sol-
vents or hot water used with rags or toweling is rec-
ommended.
A repair kit is available to repair the grid lines and
bus bars, or to reinstall the heated glass pigtail
wires.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER GRID
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). To detect breaks in
the grid lines, the following procedure is required:
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the run position.
Set the defogger switch in the On position. The indi-
cator lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 2. If not
OK, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS/
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
(2) Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the right side of the vehicle with the
negative lead. With the positive lead, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the left side of the vehicle. The volt-
meter should read battery voltage. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the defogger
relay as required.
(3) With the negative lead of the voltmeter, contact
a good body ground point. The voltage reading should
not change. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the
circuit to ground as required.
Fig. 2 GRID LINE REPAIR
1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
KJWINDOW DEFOGGER 8G - 5
WINDOW DEFOGGER (Continued)