belt KIA CARNIVAL 2007 Owner's Guide

1.Turn the ignition switch to "OFF".
2. Disconnect the output wire from the alternator "B" terminal. Connect the (+) lead wire of ammeter to the "B"
terminal of alternator and the ( - ) lead wire of ammeter to the output wire. Connect the (+) lead wire of voltmeter to
the "B" terminal of alternator and the ( - ) lead wire of voltmeter to the (+) terminal of battery.
TEST
1.Start the engine.
2. Turn on the headlamps and blower motor, and set the engine speed until the ammeter indicates 20A.
And then, read the voltmeter at this time.
RESULT
1.The voltmeter may indicate the standard value.
Standard value: 0.2V max
2. If the value of the voltmeter is higher than expected (above 0.2V max.), poor wiring is suspected. In this case
check the wiring from the alternator "B" terminal to the battery (+) terminal. Check for loose connections, color
change due to an over - heated harness, etc. Correct them before testing again.
3. Upon completion of the test, set the engine speed at idle.
Turn off the headlamps, blower motor and the ignition switch.
OUTPUT CURRENT TEST
This test determines whether or not the alternator gives an output current that is equivalent to the normal output.
PREPARATION
1.Prior to the test, check the following items and correct as necessary.
Check the battery installed in the vehicle to ensure that it is good condition. The battery checking method is
described in the section "Battery".
The battery that is used to test the output current should be one that has been partially discharged. With a fully
charged battery, the test may not be conducted correctly due to an insufficient load.
Check the tension of the alternator drive belt. The belt tension check method is described in the section "Inspect
drive belt".
2. Turn off the ignition switch.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Disconnect the alternator output wire from the alternator "B" terminal.
5. Connect a DC ammeter (0 to 150A) in series between the "B" terminal and the disconnected output wire. Be sure
to connect the ( - ) lead wire of the ammeter to the disconnected output wire.
Tighten each connection securely, as a heavy current will flow. Do not rely on clips.
6. Connect a voltmeter (0 to 20V) between the "B" terminal and ground. Connect the (+) lead wire to the alternator "B"
terminal and ( - ) lead wire to a good ground.
7. Attach an engine tachometer and connect the battery ground cable.
8. Leave the engine hood open.

TEST
1.Check to see that the voltmeter reads as the same value as the battery voltage. If the voltmeter reads 0V, and the
open circuit in the wire between alternator "B" terminal and battery ( - ) terminal or poor grounding is suspected.
2. Start the engine and turn on the headlamps.
3. Set the headlamps to high beam and the heater blower switch to HIGH, quickly increase the engine speed to 2,500
rpm and read the maximum output current value indicated by the ammeter.
After the engine start up, the charging current quickly drops.
Therefore, the above operation must be done quickly to read the maximum current value correctly.
RESULT
1.The ammeter reading must be higher than the limit value. If it is lower but the alternator output wire is in good
condition, remove the alternator from the vehicle and test it.
Limit value : 70Ë of the rated current
a.The nominal output current value is shown on the nameplate affixed to the alternator body.
b. The output current value changes with the electrical load and the temperature of the alternator itself.
Therefore, the nominal output current may not be obtained. If such is the case, keep the headlamps on the
cause discharge of the battery, or use the lights of another vehicle to increase the electrical load.
The nominal output current may not be obtained if the temperature of the alternator itself or ambient
temperature is too high.
In such a case, reduce the temperature before testing again.
2. Upon completion of the output current test, lower the engine speed to idle and turn off the ignition switch.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Remove the ammeter and voltmeter and the engine tachometer.
5. Connect the alternator output wire to the alternator "B" terminal.
6. Connect the battery ground cable.
REGULATED VOLTAGE TEST
The purpose of this test is to check that the electronic voltage regulator controls voltage correctly.
PREPARATION
1.Prior to the test, check the following items and correct if necessary.
Check that the battery installed on the vehicle is fully charged. The battery checking method is described in the
section "Battery".
Check the alternator drive belt tension. The belt tension check method is described in the section "Inspect drive
belt".
2. Turn ignition switch to "OFF".
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4. Connect a digital voltmeter between the "B" terminal of the alternator and ground. Connect the (+) lead of the
voltmeter to the "B" terminal of the alternator. Connect the ( - ) lead to good ground or the battery ( - ) terminal.
5. Disconnect the alternator output wire from the alternator "B" terminal.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then the positive terminal.
2. Disconnect the alternator connector, and remove the cable from alternator "B" terminal.
3. Remove the drive belt.
4. Pull out the through bolt and then remove the alternator(A).
5.Installation is the reverse of removal.
DISASSEMBLY
1.Remove the alternator cover(A) using a screw driver(B).
2.Remove the slip ring guide(A).
3. Loosen the mounting bolts(B) and disconnect the brush holder assembly(C).
4.Remove the rectifler(A) with 4 screws.

MAIN SYMPTOMDIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE ALSO CHECK FOR
Unable to start
(Engine does not turn
over) a.
Test the battery
b. Test the starter
c. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or clutch start switch (M/T)
Unable to start
(Incomplete
combustion) a.
Test the battery
b. Check the fuel pressure
c. Check the ignition circuit
d. Troubleshooting the immobilizer system (In case of
immobilizer lamp flashing) a.
DTC
b. Low compression
c. Intake air leaks
d. Slipped or broken timing belt
e. Contaminated fuel
Difficult to start a.
Test the battery
b. Check the fuel pressure
c. Check the ECTS and circuit (Check DTC)
d. Check the ignition circuit a.
DTC
b. Low compression
c. Intake air leaks
d. Contaminated fuel
e. Weak ignition spark
Poor idling
(Rough, unstable or
incorrect Idle) a.
Check the fuel pressure
b. Check the Injector
c. Check the long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim
(Refer to CUSTOMER DATASTREAM)
d. Check the idle speed control circuit (Check DTC)
e. Inspect and test the Throttle Body
f. Check the ECTS and circuit (Check DTC) a.
DTC
b. Low compression
c. Intake air leaks
d. Contaminated fuel
e. Weak ignition spark
Engine stall a.
Test the Battery
b. Check the fuel pressure
c. Check the idle speed control circuit (Check DTC)
d. Check the ignition circuit
e. Check the CKPS Circuit (Check DTC) a.
DTC
b. Intake air leaks
c. Contaminated fuel
d. Weak ignition spark
Poor driving
(Surge) a.
Check the fuel pressure
b. Inspect and test Throttle Body
c. Check the ignition circuit
d. Check the ECTS and Circuit (Check DTC)
e. Test the exhaust system for a possible restriction
f. Check the long term fuel trim and short term fuel trim
(Refer to CUSTOMER DATASTREAM) a.
DTC
b. Low compression
c. Intake air leaks
d. Contaminated fuel
e. Weak ignition spark
Knocking a.
Check the fuel pressure
b. Inspect the engine coolant
c. Inspect the radiator and the electric cooling fan
d. Check the spark plugs a.
DTC
b. Contaminated fuel
Poor fuel economy a.
Check customer's driving habits
a. Is A/C on full time or the defroster mode on?
b. Are tires at correct pressure?
c. Is excessively heavy load being carried?
d. Is acceleration too much, too often? a.
DTC
b. Low compression
c. Intake air leaks

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom Probable cause Remedy
Excessive play in
steering Loose yoke plug
Retighten
Loose steering gear mounting bolts Retighten
Loose or worn tie rod end Retighten or replace as necessary
Steering wheel
operation is not
smooth (Insufficient
power assist) V- belt slippage
Readjust
Damaged V- belt Replace
Low fluid level Replenish
Air in the fluid Bleed air
Twisted or damaged hoses Correct the routing or replace
Insufficient oil pump pressure Repair or replace the oil pump
Sticky flow control valve Replace
Excessive internal oil pump leakage Replace the damaged parts
Excessive oil leaks from rack and pinion in
gear box Replace the damaged parts
Distorted or damaged gear box or valve body
seals Replace
Steering wheel does
not return properly Excessive turning resistance of tierod end
Replace
Yoke plug excessively tight Adjust
Tie rod and/or ball joint cannot turn smoothly Replace
Loose mounting of gear box mounting bracket
Worn steering shaft joint and/or Retighten
Worn steering shaft joint and/or body
grommet Correct or replace
Distorted rack Replace
Damaged pinion bearing Replace
Twisted or damaged hoses Reposition or replace
Damaged oil pressure control valve Replace
Damaged oil pump input shaft bearing Replace
Noise Hissing Noise in Steering Gear
There is some noise with all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing
sound when the steering wheel is turned and the car is not moving. This noise will be most
evident when turning the wheel while the brakes are being applied. There is no relationship
between this noise and steering performance. Do not replace the valve unless the "hissing"
noise becomes extreme. A replaced valve will also make a slight noise, and is not always a
solution for the condition.
Rattling or chucking
noise in the rack and
pinion Interference with hoses from vehicle body
Reposition
Loose gear box bracket Retighten
Loose tie rod end and/or ball joint Retighten
Worn tie rod and/or ball joint Replace
Noise in the oil pump Low fluid level Replenish
Air in the fluid Bleed air
Loose pump mounting bolts Retighten

CHECKING POWER STEERING BELT TENSION
Refer to EM group(Timing system).
CHECKING POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL
1.Position the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Start the engine. With the vehicle kept stationary, turn the steering wheel several times continuously to raise the
fluid temperature to 50- 60°C (122 - 140°F).
3. With the engine at idle, turn the steering wheel fully clockwise and counter- clockwise several times.
4. Make sure that there is no foaming or cloudiness in the reservoir fluid.
5. Stop the engine and check for any difference in fluid level between a stationary and a running engine.
a.If the fluid level varies 5 mm (0.2 in) or more, bleed the system again.
b. If the fluid level suddenly rises after stopping the engine, further bleeding is required.
c. Incomplete bleeding will produce a chattering sound in the pump and noise in the flow control valve, and
lead to decreased durability of the pump.
REPLACING POWER STEERING FLUID
1.Jack up the front wheels and support them with jackstands.
2. Disconnect the return hose from the oil reservoir and plug the oil reservoir.
3. Connect a vinyl hose to the disconnected return hose, and drain the oil into a container.
4. Remove the fuel pump fuse, then start the engine and wait for the engine to stall. Next, while operating the starting
motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right several times to drain the
fluid.
5. Connect the return hoses, then fill the oil reservoir with the specified fluid.
6. Reinstall the fuel pump fuse.
7. Start the engine. Check for oil leakage.
8. Stop the engine.
9. Bleed the system.
Power steering fluid type : PSF - 3
Total quantity : Approx 1.1 liter
AIR BLEEDING
1.Remove the fuel pump fuse, then start the engine and wait for the engine to stall. Next, while operating the starting
motor intermittently (for 15 ~ 20 seconds), turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then to the right five or
six times.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Disconnect the pressure tube (A) from the oil pump by loosening the eye bolt.
Tightening torque Nm (kgf- m, lb - ft):
65 ~ 75 (6.5 ~ 7.5, 47 ~ 54)
2. Disconnect the suction hose (B) from the suction pipe.
[Diesel]
[Gasoline]
3.Remove the drive belt.
4. Loosen the power steering pump mounting bolts, and then remove the power steering pump assembly (A) from the
pump bracket.
Tightening torque Nm (kgf.m lb - ft):
17 ~ 26 (1.7 ~ 2.6, 12 ~ 19)
[Diesel]

12.Remove the O - ring from the connector.
Do not disassemble the flow control valve.
INSPECTION
1.Check that the flow control valve is not bent.
2. Check the shaft for wear and damage.
3. Check the V belt for wear and deterioration.
4. Check the grooves of the rotor and vanes for stratified abrasion.
5. Check the contact surface of the cam ring and vanes for stratified abrasion.
6. Check vanes for damage.
7. Check that there is no striped wear in the side plate or contacting part between the shaft and the pump cover
surface.
REASSEMBLY
1.Install the flow control spring (B), the flow control valve (A) and the connector into the pump body.
2.Install the oil seal in the pump body by using the special tool (09222- 32100).

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM SYMPTOMS TABLE
Before replacing or repairing air conditioning components, first determine if the malfunction is due to the refrigerant
charge, air flow or compressor.
Use the table below to help you find the cause of the problem. The numbers indicate the priority of the likely cause of
the problem. Check each part in order. If necessary, replace these parts.
After correcting the malfunction, check the complete system to ensure that performance is satisfactory.
STANDARD:
Symptom Suspect Area See page
No blower operation 1. Blower fuse
2. Blower relay
3. Blower motor
4. Power mosfet
5. Blower speed control switch
6. Wire harness
No air temperature control 1. Engine coolant capacity
2. Heater control assembly
No compressor operation 1. Refrigerant capacity
2. A/C Fuse
3. Magnetic clutch
4. Compressor
5. Dual pressure switch
6. A/C switch
7. Evaporator temperature sensor
8. Wire harness
No cool comes out 1. Refrigerant capacity
2. Refrigerant pressure
3. Drive belt
4. Magnetic clutch
5. Compressor
6. Dual pressure switch
7. Evaporator temperature sensor
8. A/C switch
9. Heater control assembly
10. Wire harness
Insufficient cooling 1. Refrigerant capacity
2. Drive belt
3. Magnetic clutch
4. Compressor
5. Condenser
6. Expansion valve
7. Evaporator
8. Refrigerant lines
9. Dual pressure switch
10. Heater control assembly
No engine idle - up when A/C switch
ON 1. Engine ECM
2. Wire harness
No air inlet control 1. Heater control assembly
No mode control 1. Heater control assembly
2. Mode actuator
No cooling fan operation 1. Cooling fan fuse
2. Fan motor
3. Engine ECM
4. Wire harness

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.If the compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed, and let the air conditioning work for a few
minutes, then shut the engine off.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/charging station (Refer to HA - 8).
4. Loosen the drive belt (Refer to HA - 14).
5. Remove the bolts, then disconnect the suction line (A) and discharge line (B) from the compressor. Plug (C) or cap
the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.
6.Disconnect the compressor clutch connector (A), and then remove 4 mounting bolts and the compressor.
INSTALLATION
1.Make sure of the length of compressor mounting bolts.
2.Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items.
a. If you're installing a new compressor, drain all the refrigerant oil from the removed compressor, and measure its
volume, Subtract the volume of drained oil from 120cc(4.20 oz.) the result is the amount of oil you should drain