check engine light MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER 2005 Service Repair Manual

MAINTENANCE - WITH ASSYST MAINTENANCE
COMPUTER
ASSYST provides information on the best possible
timing for maintenance work.
NOTE: The engine manufacturer strongly recom-
mends the use of synthetic engine oils, such as
TMobil 1 SAE 0W-40.
When the next maintenance service is due, this
will be indicated in the multi-function display with
the wrench icon symbol displayed in km/miles or
days.
²One wrench icon showing indicates Oil Service
is necessary.
²Two wrench icons showing indicates Mainte-
nance Service is necessary ± displayed in km/miles or
days.
If the display shows the number of days, a clock
symbol will also appear in the multi-function display.
You should have the maintenance performed
within the stated period/distance.
The service indicator should be reset after an oil
service and/or maintenance service has been per-
formed.
REGULAR CHECK-UPS
To maintain the safe operation of the vehicle, it is
recommended that the following tasks be performed
on a regular basis (i.e. weekly or whenever the vehi-
cle is refueled). Check:
²Engine oil level
²Brake system, clutch mechanism ± fluid level
²Battery ± acid level
²Windshield washer system and headlamp clean-
ing system ± fluid level
²Mechanical assemblies (e. g. engine, transmis-
sion, etc.) ± check for leaks
²Condition of tires and tires pressures
²All exterior lights
SPECIAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
If bodies built by manufacturers other than
DaimlerChrysler Corporation are fitted to the vehi-
cle, the maintenance requirements and lubrication
intervals specified by the body manufacturer must be
adhered to, in addition to all standard maintenance
requirements.
Brake Fluid
Only use brake fluids approved by the manufac-
turer (DOT 4 plus).
Coolant
Corrosion inhibitor/antifreeze concentration in the
coolant should be checked before the onset of winter
(once year in countries with high prevailing temper-
atures).Replace the coolant every five years or 100,000
miles.
Dust Filter for Heating/Ventilation Replace-
ment
The dust filter and the tailgate interior filter are to
be renewed during routine maintenance service. If
operating conditions are dusty, these filters should be
renewed more frequently.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE AND FILTER REPLACEMENT
At the minimum, change the engine oil and oil fil-
ter once a year ± even if the vehicle mileage per year
is extremely low. For standard oil service schedules
refer to the chapter oil service and maintenance ser-
vice.
Once a Year
Select the viscosity of the engine oil (SAE classes)
according to the outside air temperature.
Only use engine oil approved by DaimlerChrysler
Corporation if following the ASSYST system guide-
lines.
If the fuel used has a sulphur content exceeding
0.05% by weight, the service intervals should be split
in half.
SCOPE OF WORK FOR MAINTENANCE SERVICE
Oil Service
²Engine:
Oil change and filter replacement
Check fluid levels of the following system,
refill as necessary.
²If fluid is lost, trace and eliminate cause ± as a
separate order.
²Power-assisted steering
Lubrication work:
²Trailer tow hitch (original equipment)
Maintenance
²ASSYST maintenance computer reset
Function check
²Signalling system, warning and indicator lamps
²Headlamps, exterior lighting
²Windshield wipers, windshield washer system
Check for leaks and damage.
²Check for abrasion points and ensure that lines
are correctly routed!
²All lines and hoses, sensor cables
²Rubber boots on front axle drive shafts, rubber
boots on front axle suspension ball joints, shock
absorbers
Check fluid levels for the following systems,
correct as necessary.
NOTE: Should there be a loss of fluid which cannot
be explained by regular use, trace and eliminate the
cause.
0 - 8 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEVA
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch
noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion
bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise
is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearingsproduce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listenfor the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAIN AND FILL
NOTE: Drain oil when warm.
(1) Clean area around oil fill plug and drain plug.
(2) Remove oil drain plug and drain oil (Fig. 1).
(3) Install oil drain plug and tighten to N´m 100
(74 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove oil fill plug and fill housing up to bot-
tom edge of oil fill hole (Fig. 1).
(5) Install oil fill plug and tighten to N´m 100 (74
ft. lbs.).
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the axle
and secure axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Unplug wear indicator cable (Fig. 2) and (Fig.
3).
(5) Detach cable connector for brake pad wear
indicator.
(6) Remove ABS sensor and clamp bushing from
mounting bore.
NOTE: The right-hand ABS sensor cable is labeled
at the factory with a white tag.
(7) Remove cable ties from the park brake cables.
Release connection cable of brake pad wear indicator
and ABS sensor cable up to the relay unit of the
parking brake.
(8) Remove brake cables from adjuster.
(9) Remove brake calipers with adapters and lines.
Fig. 1 FILL PLUG
1 - FILL PLUG
2 - DRAIN PLUG
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 11
REAR AXLE (Continued)

ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(8) Raise the vehicle and adjust the ALB controller
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ALB CONTROLLER - ADJUSTMENTS).
(9) Lower the vehicle and test drive.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Clean any debris away from the test ports caps
at the ALB controller.
(2) Connect brake adapters special tool 9297 to the
test ports at the ALB controller.
(3) Install a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A, to the adapters.
(4) Tighten all tube nut fittings to 17 N´m (145 in.
lbs.) torque.
(5) Bleed any air out of the system. This includes
bleeding the air from the hose between the pressure
test fitting and pressure gauge, which is done at the
pressure gauge.
NOTE: Adjustment is determined for the automatic
load-dependent brake power control system accord-
ing to the ALB plate. This is housed in the stowage
compartment under the front passenger's door
panel. The part number of the rear spring is
stamped into the spring eye. This must correspond
to the part number of the rear spring on the ALB
plate.
(6) To accurately adjust the rear axle load you
must first determine the rear axle load by weighing
the vehicle at a local scale.
(7) Install the brake pedal winch Special tool 9296
between the brake pedal and the driver seat and
slowly turn the dial until the specified inlet brake
pressure is indicated at the gauge.
NOTE: The pressure gauge, connected at the ALB
controller must indicate the outlet pressure which
is assigned on the ALB plate to the rear axle load
determined.
NOTE: If the rear axle load determined is between
two figures indicated on the ALB plate, the outlet
pressure should be determined accordingly.
(8) If the pressure measured differs from the spec-
ification, adjust the ALB controller (Fig. 16).
(9) Loosen the brake pedal winch.
(10) Adjust the outlet pressure by turning the
adjusting nut (Fig. 16)To increase pressure -
tighten the adjusting nut. To reduce pressure -
loosen the adjusting nut.(11) After adjustment reinstall the brake pedal
winch and recheck the pressures and readjust if
needed.
(12) Tighten the lock adjusting nut.
MASTER CYLINDER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
Fig. 16 ALB CONTROLLER ADJUSTER NUT
1 - ALB ADJUSTER NUT
2 - SPRING
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEVA
ALB CONTROLLER (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
OPERATIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM...........1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS.............................1DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM.............................2
ACCESSORY DRIVE.......................5
ENGINE................................9
COOLING
OPERATIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible. It also
maintains normal operating temperature and pre-
vents overheating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED OR STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
AIR CONDITIONING; ADD-ON OR AFTER MARKET:
A maximum cooling package should have been
ordered with vehicle if add-on or after market A/C is
installed. If not, maximum cooling system compo-
nents should be installed for model involved per
manufacturer's specifications.
RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
VACOOLING 7 - 1

acteristics than ethylene glycol. This can increase
cylinder head temperatures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/Ethylene-glycol MixturesÐShould Not Be
Used in Chrysler Vehicles
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can
cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibi-
tors, causing damage to the various cooling system
components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propy-
lene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle,
conventional methods of determining freeze point will
not be accurate. Both the refractive index and spe-
cific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propy-
lene glycol.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 1).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer cap and check coolant level. Push down on cap
to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of con-
tainer and examine lower inside sealing seat for
nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect
radiator-to- pressure container hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.Inspect cams on outside of pressure container. If
cams are damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and
tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
coolant pressure container (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 2 PRESSURE TESTING
1 - PRESSURE RESERVOIR CAP
2 - PRESSURE RESERVOIR
3 - PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 10 ENGINEVA
COOLANT (Continued)

Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on coolant
container until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure
Tester to container. If pressure builds up quickly it
indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually
the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or crack in
engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean and suitably marked
container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN
WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERI-
OUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Add coolant to pressure container to bring level to
within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
VAENGINE 7 - 11
COOLANT (Continued)

(16) Install A/C condenser.
(17) Install front bumper.
(18) Install front end cross member.
(19) Refill power steering to proper level.
(20) Refill transmission to proper level.
(21) Close radiator drain plug and refill the cooling
system to the correct level with the appropriate cool-
ant mixture.
(22) Recharge air conditioning.
(23) Run engine until warm and check for leaks.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles are equipped with a pressure cap (Fig.
11). This cap releases pressure at some point within
a range of 124-to-145 kPa (18-to-21 psi). The pres-
sure relief point (in pounds) is engraved on top of the
capThe cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 124-to-
145 kPa (18-to-21 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve to
open and coolant in reserve/overflow tank to be
drawn through connecting hose into radiator. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or overflow hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
Fig. 10 RADIATOR AND FAN SHROUD
1 - CLIP
2 - SHROUD
3 - RADIATOR
4 - BOTTOM RADIATOR TRIM PANEL
5 - CHARGE AIR COOLER
6 - TOP RADIATOR TRIM PANEL
7 - POWER STEERING COOLER LOOP
Fig. 11 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
7 - 18 ENGINEVA
RADIATOR (Continued)

OPERATION
The heated seat system is designed to provide indi-
vidually controlled, supplemental heat to the seat
cushion and seat back surfaces of both front seats.
Because this system converts electrical current to
heat, the heated seat system can provide a measure
of warm comfort almost immediately upon entering a
cold vehicle, rather than having to wait for the
engine coolant to reach sufficient temperature to
deliver heat through the conventional heater system.
This system allows each front seat occupant to indi-
vidually select one of two comfort levels, Hi or Lo, or
to turn the heater for their seat off.
The heated seat system components operate on
battery current received through a fuse in the Fuse
Block on a fused ignition switch output (run-acc) cir-
cuit so that the system will only operate when theignition switch is in the On or Accessory positions.
The heated seat system will be turned Off automati-
cally whenever the ignition switch is turned to any
position except On or Accessory. Also, the heated seat
system will not operate when the surface tempera-
ture of the seat cushion cover at either heated seat
sensor is above the designed temperature set points
of the system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED SEATS
Refer toWiringfor the appropriate wiring infor-
mation. The wiring information includes wiring dia-
grams, proper wire and connector repair procedures,
further details on wire harness routing and reten-
tion, as well as pin-out and location views for the
various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds.
HEATED SEAT SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NO HEATED SEAT SWITCH
ILLUMINATION WITH
IGNITION ON1. Faulty fuse. 1. Check heated seat fuse in Fuse Block.
Replace fuse, if required.
2. Wiring faulty. 2. Check fused ignition switch output (run-acc)
circuit from heated seat switch connector to
ignition switch. Repair, if required.
3. Ground faulty. 3. Check for ground at heated seat switch
connector. Repair, if required.
4. Faulty switch. 4. Refer to Heated Seat Switch for the proper
switch diagnosis and testing procedures.
DRIVER HEATED SEAT
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The heated seat switches are located on the instru-
ment panel, in the accessory switch bezel. The two,
momentary rocker type switches provide a signal to
the Heated Seat Relay through separate hard wired
circuits. Each switch contains two light emitting
diodes (LED), one for each High and Low setting to
let the occupant know that the seat heater system is
on.
The heated seat switches and their LED's cannot
be repaired. If either switch is faulty or damaged the
entire switch must be replaced.
OPERATION
There are three modes that can be selected with
each of the heated seat switches: Off, Low, and High.
When the top of the switch rocker is depressed, the
low mode is selected and the low mode LED indicator
illuminates. Depressing the top of the switch rocker asecond time will turn the heated seat to Off. This
same process is repeated for High heat setting. The
heated seats will automatically return to the Off
mode anytime the vehicle ignition switch is turned
Off.
Both switches provide separate hard wire inputs to
the Heated Seat Relay to indicate the selected mode.
The Heated Seat Relay responds to the heated seat
switch messages by controlling the output to the seat
heater elements of the selected seat.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRIVER HEATED
SEAT SWITCH
For circuit description and diagrams, refer toWir-
ing.
(1) Inspect the Heated Seat Switches for apparent
damage or sticking/binding and replace if required.
Refer to Heated Seat Switch Removal and Installa-
tion in this section.
(2) Replace the heated seat switch with a known
good unit and retest the heated seat system.
8G - 2 HEATED SYSTEMSVA
HEATED SEATS (Continued)

(3) From the back of the cluster bezel, squeeze the
two latches on the fog lamp switch body and push
the switch out through the face of the bezel (Fig. 17).
(4) Remove the fog lamp switch from the face of
the cluster bezel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fog lamp switch to the proper
mounting hole on the face of the cluster bezel (Fig.
16).
(2) Using hand pressure, push the fog lamp switch
firmly and evenly into the switch mounting hole of
the cluster bezel until both of the latches on the
switch body are fully engaged.
(3) Reinstall the cluster bezel onto the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
CLUSTER BEZEL - INSTALLATION).
(4) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
FRONT LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the front grille from the vehicle. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the two screws that secure the cover at
the inboard side of the front lamp unit (Fig. 18).
(4) Remove the cover from the front lamp unit.
(5) From the engine compartment, disconnect the
vehicle wire harness connector from the connector
receptacle for the front lamp unit.
(6) Remove the four screws that secure the front
lamp unit to the front of the vehicle.(7) Remove the front lamp unit from the front of
the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front lamp unit to the front of the
vehicle (Fig. 18).
(2) Install and tighten the four screws that secure
the front lamp unit to the front of the vehicle.
(3) From the engine compartment, reconnect the
vehicle wire harness connector to the connector
receptacle for the front lamp unit.
(4) Position the cover to the front lamp unit.
(5) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the cover at the inboard side of the front lamp unit.
(6) Reinstall the front grille onto the vehicle.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(8) Check and adjust the front lamp alignment as
required. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHT-
ING - EXTERIOR/FRONT LAMP UNIT - ADJUST-
MENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - FRONT LAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR FRONT LAMP UNIT
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer (multi-function)
switch, fog lamp switch (if equipped), and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Verify that the headlamp leveling switch is in
the ª0º position.
Fig. 17 Fog Lamp Switch Remove/Install
1 - FOG LAMP SWITCH
2 - LATCH (2)
3 - CLUSTER BEZEL
Fig. 18 Front Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - SCREW (2)
2 - COVER
3 - SCREW (4)
4 - LAMP UNIT
5 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
8L - 12 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORVA
FOG LAMP SWITCH (Continued)