battery MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2
WHERE TOBEGIN l-2
AVOIDINGTROUBLE 1-2
MAINTENANCEORREPAIR? 1-2
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMONMISTAKES l-2
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2
SPECIALTOOLS l-4
YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY 1-4
DON'TS l-6
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND
CONVERSIONS l-6
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED
RETAINERS 1-6
TORQUE l-7
TORQUEWRENCHES l-7
TORQUEANGLEMETERS 1-9
STANDARDANDMETRIC MEASUREMENTS l-9
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION l-10
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER I-10
TRANSAXLEIDENTIFICATION I-10
DRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP l-14
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) 1-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-14
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION l-15
PCVVALVE l-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
EVAPORATIVECANISTER l-16
SERVICING 1-16
BATTERY 1-16
PRECAUTIONS I-16
GENERALMAINTENANCE 1-16
BEL BATTERYFLUID 1-16
CABLES I-17
CHARGING I-18
REPLACEMENT 1-18
TS 1-18
INSPECTiON l-18
ADJUSTMENT 1-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-18
TIMINGBELTS l-20
INSPECTION l-20
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION l-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
CV-BOOTS 1-21
INSPECTION l-21
SPARKPLUGS l-22
SPARKPLUGHEATRANGE
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION &GAPPING 1.
SPARKPLUG WIRES 1-24
TESTING 1-24
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION 1-25
IGNITIONTIMING 1-25
. GENERALINFORAMTION l-
lNSPECTlON&ADJUSTMENl
VALVE LASH l-27
ADJUSTMENT l-27
IDLESPEED 1-28 1-21
l-22
l-22
-23
1-24
l-25
l-25
.25
1-26
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28
SYSTEMSERVlCEiiREPAlR l-28
PREVENTIVEMAINTENANCE 1-28
SYSTEM INSPECTION l-29
WINDSHIELD WIPERS l-29
ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE&
REPLACEMENT l-29
TIRESANDWHEELS l-30
TIRE ROTATION I-30
TIRE DESIGN 1-31
TIRESTORAGE l-31
INFLATION &INSPECTION l-31
CARE OFSPECIALWHEELS l-32 OPERATION INFOREIGNCOUNTRIES l-33
ENGINE l-33
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE l-34
MANUALTRANSAXLE l-35
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-35
LEVELCHECK l-35
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36
LEVELCHECK 1-36
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
PAN & FILTERSERVICE 1-36
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGAlANT ONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
REARDRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
iM-41
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FlJELANDENGlNEOILRECOMMENDATlONS
ENGINE OIL l-33
FUEL l-33

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-3
3-19mm, as well as a % in. or ~/a in. spark plug careful when using them, as they can change
socket (depending on plug type). the amount of torque applied to the socket.
-if possible, buy various length socket drive
l Jackstands for support.
extensions. Universal-joint and wobble ex- l Oil filter wrench.
tensions can be extremely useful, but be l Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
l Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless
your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fit-
tings-for details, please refer to information on Flu-
ids and Lubricants, later in this section).
l Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless
equiooed with a sealed, maintenance-free batten/).
In addition to the above items there are several O’ A container for draining oil and other fluids.
l Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.
pi 1 others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to
have around. These include Oil Dry@ (or an equiva-
lent oil absorbent gravel-such as cat litter) and the
usual SUDDIV of lubricants. antifreeze and fluids. al-
though the.& can be purchased as needed. This is a
basic list for routine maintenance, but only your per-
sonal needs and desire can accurately determine your
Fig. 1 Ail but the most basic procedures
After performing a few projects on the vehicle,
you’ll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on
lWSl2U2 Fig, 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of
jackstands are essential for lifting and sup
porting the vehicle tm1204 Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and ptybars
are great tools to have in your toolbox
Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, us-
ing specialized brake tools will save time
Fig. 11 inductive type timing light

I-4 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge- Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is neces-
is recommended for compression testing sary for many testing procedures
Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multime-
ters incorporate many helpful features
your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and
ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape
for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines
or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for
plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll
of mechanic’s wire (to hold things out of the way),
dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong
magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and
under manifolds).
A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up
work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are
lmvl Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so at
ways have a Chiiton Total Car Care manua
handy
l Feeler aauoes for valve adiustment
* Timing-light.
The choice of a timing fight should be made
carefully. A light which works on the DC current
supplied by the vehicle’s battery is the best choice;
it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any
vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing
light with an inductive pickup that clamps around
the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, there are several
other tools and gauges you may find useful. These
include:
l Compression gauge. The screw-in type is
slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
fauliy reading due to escaping pressure.
l Manifold vacuum gauge. l 12V test light. l A combination volt/ohmmeter l induction Ammeter. This is used for determin-
ing whether or not there is current in a wire. These
are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a
wiring harness.
As a final note, vou will orobablv find a torque
wrench necessary for all but the most basic work.
The beam type models are perfectly adequate, al-
though the newer click types (breakaway) are easier
to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be
more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of
torque wrenches should be periodically checked
and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for your-
self which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
ilightly more sophisticated, they need not be outra-
feously expensive. There are several inexpensive
achldwell meters on the market that are every bit as
Toad for the average mechanic as a professional
nodel. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500
pm on the tach scale and that it works on 4,6 and 8-
:ylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to
nake them with an eye towards adaptability and wide
ange. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:
l Tach/dwell meter. l Spark plug wrench and gapping tool. Normally, the use of special factory tools is
avoided for repair procedures, since these are not
readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
When it is possible to perform the job with more
commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but
occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform
a specific function and should be used. Before sub-
stituting another tool, you should be convinced that
neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle
will be compromised.
Special tools can usually be purchased from an
automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some
cases special tools may be available directly from the
tool manufacturer.
p See Figures 16, 17, 16, and 19
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the haz-
ards involved with automotive maintenance and ser-
vice, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t
smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for
the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
l handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cut- l ting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have
20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vi-
sion, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
l Do shield your eyes whenever you work around
the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of
contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water
or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek im-
mediate medical attention.
l Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any un-
dervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;
jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the
vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the
ground and set the parking brake.
l Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals or hazardous materials, Like car-
bon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in suffi-
cient quantities.
l Do disconnect the negative battery cable when
working on the electrical system. The secondary ig- nition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLT-
AGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
l Do follow manufacturer’s directions whenever
working with potentially hazardous materials. Most
chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter-
nally.
l Do properly maintain your tools. Loose ham-
merheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed
or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end),
cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
* Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy
wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and
often harming your knuckles in the process.
l Do use the proper size and type of tool for the
job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight,
not cocked.

1-6 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good
:ondition to prevent injury or damage which
:ould result it the blade slips from the screw
0
0
PP tccs1022 Fig. 16 Using the correct size wrench will
help prevent the possibility of rounding off
a nut
7
lwo.WIRE CouDuClOR TMREE-WIRE CONO”CTOI
MIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING TNRU
THE CASE A CmxlIT
.
i$Y$$pQ
p-+
TNHREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR
ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND GROUNOlNG TMRU
AN ADAPTER PLUG
tccm21
Fig. 17 Power tools should always be prop-
erly grounded
Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it
is supported using safety stands (jackstands)
l Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle l Do set the parking brake and block the drive
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to pre-
vent a fall. wheels if the work requires a running engine.
l Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are
tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that
the force is on the side of the fixed jaw.
l Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glanc-
ing blows. l Don’t run the engine in a garage or anywhere
else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave
the human body and you can build up a deadly sup-
ply of it in your system by simply breathing in a !ittle
every day. You may not realize you are slowly poi-
soning yourself. Always use power vents, windows,
fans and/or open the garage door.
l Don’t work around moving parts while wearing
loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than
long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene
soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slip-
pery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt
buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not
safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be
tied back under a hat or cap.
l Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump
can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a
rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around
a spinning shaft or fan.
l Don’t smoke when working around gasoline,
cleaning solvent or other flammable material.
l Don’t smoke when workrng around the battery.
When the battery is being charged, it gives off explo-
sive hydrogen gas.
l Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands; there
are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dan-
gerous additives which can enter the body through a
cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all
the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands
will suck up oil and grease.
l Don’t service the air conditioning system un-
less you are equipped with the necessary tools and
trainmg. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb
heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze
anything it touches.
l Don’t use screwdrivers for anything other than
driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool
can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries.
At the very least, you’ll ruin a good screwdriver.
. Don’t use an emergency jack (that little ratchet,
scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehi-
cle) for anything other than changing a flat! These
jacks are only Intended for emergency use out on the
road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If
you are serious about mamtaining your vehicle your-
self, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1%
ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.
sion which can increase the torque necessary to proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle
achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener afterwards.
was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt
p See Figures 20, 21, 22, and 23 driver surface of the fastener has not been compro- or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware
mised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a stores keep gauges available to help you select the
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found driver surface may become only partially rounded, al- proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or
in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used lowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is
retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, many of these occurrences, a fastener may be in- not too badly damaged, you can select a match by
studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused, stalled and tightened, but the driver would not be able finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If
provided that they are not damaged in use or during to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead you find a nut which threads properly onto the dam-
the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or J to frustration down the line should that component aged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replace-
torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when ever need to be disassembled again). ment bolt If however, the bolt you are replacing is so
tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled. If you must replace a fastener, whether due to de- badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads
Whenever possible, we will note any special re- sign or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by look-
tainers which should be replaced during a procedure. the proper replacement In all cases, a retainer of the ing for another bolt (from the same assembly or a
But you should always inspect the condition of a re- same design, material and strength should be used. similar location on your vehicle) which will thread
tainer when It is removed and replace any that show Markings on the heads of most bolts will help deter- into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt
signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corro- mine the proper strength of the fastener. The same
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure
to select the replacement bolt.

UNDERHDDD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-2AL ENGINE
II
1. Power steering belt 7. PCV valve
2. Washer solvent bottle 8. Distributor cap and rotor
3. Power steering reservoir 9. Fuel filter (under air inlet tube)
4. Oil fill cap 10. Air filter housing
5. Brake master cylinder reservoir 11. Engine compartment fuse box
6. Spark plug and plug wire 12. Battery 13. Automatic transaxle fluid dipstick
14. Coolant recovery tank
15. Radiator cap
16. Engine oil dipstick

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS-l .8L ENGINE
1. Coolant recovery tank
2. Battery
3. Engine compartment fuse box
4. Air filter housing
5. Clutch fluid reservoir
6. Brake master cylinder reservoir 7. Spark plug and plug wire
8. PCV valve
9. Engine oil fill cap
10. Fuel filter
11. Engine compartment relay center
12. Washer solvent bottle 13. Power steering reservoir
14. Power steering belt
15. Engine oil dipstick
16. Radiator cap

l
l-14 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Proper maintenance and tune-up is the key to long
and trouble-free vehicle life, and the work can yield
its own rewards. Studies have shown that a properly
tuned and maintained vehicle can achieve better gas
mileage than an out-of-tune vehicle. As a conscien-
tious owner and driver, set aside a Saturday morning,
say once a month, to check or replace items which
could cause major problems later. Keep your own
personal log to jot down which services you per-
formed, how much the parts cost you, the date, and
the exact odometer reading at the time. Keep all re-
selfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that ceipts for such items as engine oil and filters, so that
they may be referred tp in case of related problems or
to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-your- the required maintenance was performed. In the event
of a warranty problem, these receipts will be invalu-
able.
The literature provided with your vehicle when it
was originally delivered includes the factory recom-
mended maintenance schedule. If you no longer have
this literature, replacement copies are usually avail-
able from the dealer. A maintenance schedule is pro-
vided later in this section, in case you do not have
the factory literature. *
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Except 2.gL Turbocharged Engine
b See Figures 36 thru 41 9. Place a new air cleaner element inside the
lower housing. Make sure the seal on the element is
fully seated in the groove.
10. Install the upper air cleaner housing and inlet
tube onto the lower housing.
11. Tighten the clamp on the inlet tube at the
throttle body.
12. Attach the breather hose onto the air inlet tube.
13. Plug the connector into the MAF sensor.
14. Attach the air cleaner housing retaining clips.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
2.DL Turbocharged Engine
b See Figure 42
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the air flow sensor connector.
3. Unfasten the boost hose.
4. Disconnect the solenoid valve with hoses.
93151p50 Fig. 36 Release the retaining clips from the
air cleaner housing
r3151p47 Fig. 37 Unplug the MAF sensor connector
Fig. 49
. . . then remove the air outlet tube
and upper housing from the lower housing 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 5. Disconnect the air intake hose.
2. Release the retaining clips from the air 6. Unfasten tie air cleaner retainer bolts and the
cleaner housing. air cleaner assembly.
3. Loosen the clamp on the air outlet tube at the 7. Unclamp the cover and remove from the hous-
throttle body. ing.
4. Detach the breather hose from the air inlet
tube. *Care must be taken when removing the air
cleaner cover. The air flow sensor is at-
5. Unplug the MAF sensor connector.
6. Separate the upper and lower air cleaner tached and could be damaged during cover
removal.
housings and remove the air outlet tube and upper
housing from the lower housing.
7. Remove the air cleaner element from the
housing.
To install:
8. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing of
any dirt and debris that has collected inside. 8. Remove the air cleaner element. Thoroughly
clean the air cleaner housing prior to replacing the air
filter.
To install:
9. Install the new air cleaner element into the
housing. Install and secure the cover in place.
Fig. 38 Detach the breather hose from the
air tniet tube
Fig. 41 Remove the air cleaner element
from the housing Fig. 39 Loosen the clamp on the air outlet
tube at the throttle body . . .
Fig. 42 Detach the air flow sensor connec-
tor, the boost hose and the solenoid valve
connector

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-15
10. install the air cleaner assembly and the re- *Wrap shop towels around the fitting that is
tainer bolts. being dtsconnected to absorb residual fuel in
11. Connect the air intake hose. the lines. 9. While holding the fuel filter nut with aback-
up wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 22 ft. Ibs. (30
Nm). Tighten the flare nut to 25 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm), with
12. Attach the solenoid valve.
4. Cover the hose connection with shop towels to a back-up wrench on the nut.
13. Connect the boost hose.
14. Attach the air flow sensor connector. prevent any splash of fuel that could be caused by 10. Tighten the filter mounting bolts to 10 ft. Ibs.
residual pressure in the fuel pipe line. Hold the fuel (14 Nm).
15. Connect the negative battery cable. 11.

filter nut securely with a backup wrench, then remove Connect the negative battery cable. Turn the
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION the banjo bolt on the engine feed line. Disconnect the
high-pressure fuel line from the filter. Remove and
discard the gaskets.
5. While holding the fuel filter nut securely with a
back-up wrench, loosen the filter feed pipe flare nut key to the ON position to pressurize the fuel system
and check for leaks.
12. If repairs of a leak are required, remember to
release the fuel pressure before opening the fuel sys-
tern.
u See Figures 43 thru 48
On most vehicles covered by this manual, the fuel
filter is located in the engine compartment, mounted
to the firewall.
Do not use conventional fuel filters, hoses or
clamps when servicing fuel injection sys
terns. They are not compatible with the injec-
tion
system and could fail, causing personal
injury or damage to the vehicle. Use only
hoses and clamps specifically designed for
fuel injection systems.
1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure as
outlined in Section 5 of this manual. on the bottom of the filter. Separate the flare nut con-
nection from the filter. If equipped, remove and dis-
card the gaskets.
6. Remove the mounting bolts and remove
. ,,,. ,.
.a r I,.,< I the
ruer rrrter. II necessary, remove me ruer rrrrer oracket.
To install:
7. Install the filter to its bracket only finger-tight.
Movement of the filter will ease attachment of the fuel
lines.
Ensure that the filter is installed with the flow
arrow in the proper direction. The flow arrow
typically points toward the engine side of the
filter. improper installation of the fuel filter
will cause the vehicle to run poorly.
2. If not already done, disconnect the negative REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
u See Figures 49, 50, and 51
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If necessary for access, remove the air intake
hose and air cleaner assembly.
3. If necessary, unfasten the retaining clamp, then
disconnect the ventilation hose from the PCV valve.
4. Remove the PCV valve from the camshaft
(rocker) cover.
To install:
5. Install the PCV valve into the rocker cover. If
the valve is threaded, tighten the valve until snug.
battery cable.
3. On most models. the iob is made easier if the
air inlet hose and upper air cleaner housing is re-
moved from the vehicle. *Make sure new O-rings are installed prior
to installation.
8. Insert the filter feed pipe to the lower connec-
tion of the filter and manually screw in the main
pipe’s flare nut. 6. Reconnect the ventilation hose to the valve.
7. If removed, install the air intake hose and the
a .ir cleaner assembly.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 43 Use a back-up wrench on the fuel
I I
93151@3
filter nut when loosening the banjo-bolt on Fig. 44 After the banjo-bolt is loose, remove
I
1 the engine feed line - from the fuel filter
93151p93 Fig. 48 Make sure to use a back-up wrench
1 when unfastening the main fuel pipe also 1 Fig. 47 Remove the two filter bracket re-
taining bolts . . . Fig. 45 Make sure to replace the copper
washers on the banjo-bolt fitting
Fig. 48 . . . then remove the filter from the
vehicle

*
l-16 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 49 Grasp the valve and gently remove
Fig. 50 Twist and pull on the valve to re-
it from the valve cover
move it from the hose Fig. 51 Inspect the grommet and replace if
cracked or leaking oil
SERVICING
corrosive acid can also eat away at components un-
der the hood.
Always visually inspect the battery case for cracks,
leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance
u See Figure 52
The evaporative canister requires no periodic ser-
vicing. However, a careful inspection of the canister
and hoses should be made frequently, Replace dam- on the battery case or on nearby components would
indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the battery is
cracked, it should be replaced immediately. GENERALMAINTENANCE '_
devices that increase parasitic load may discharge a
battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-B
weeks in a secure area and the alarm system, if pre-
sent, is not necessary, the negative battery cable
should be disconnected at the onset of storage to
protect the battery charge.
Remember that constantly discharging and
recharging will shorten battery life. Take rare not to
allow a battery to be needlessly discharged.
aged components as required.
The canister is typically located under one of the
front fenders, however on some later models it may
be under the rear of the vehicle, near the gas tank,
r on most models # See Figure 53
A battery that is not sealed must be checked peri-
odically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to
a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all
maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however, a
sealed battery must also be checked for proper elec-
trolyte level, as indicated by the color of the built-in
hydrometer “eye.”
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free
of corrosion. Check these components about once a
year. Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning
procedures outlined in this section,
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt
can help completely discharge a battery that is not
used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and
water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to
flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the
solution into the filler holes. Baking soda neutralizes
battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell.
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a
regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small
BA-ITERY FLUID
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a
month. or more often in hot weather or during peri-
ods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed
batteries, the level can be checked either through the
case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell
caps on opaque-cased types. The electrolyte level in
each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside
each ceil, or the line marked on the outside of the
case.
If the level is low, add only distilled water through
the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is sep-
arate from the others, so each must be checked and
filled individuallv. Distilled water should be used, be-
cause the chemicals and minerals found in most
drinking water are harmful to the battery and could
significantly shorten its life.
If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle
should be driven several miles to allow the water to
mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could
freeze.
current drains which are constantly drawing current
from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a Although some maintenance-free batteries have
removable cell caos for access to the electrolyte, the
cause a short circuit, leading to sparks and possible
personal injury.
Do not smoke, have an open flame or create
sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the bat-
tery are very explosive and, if ignited, could cause se-
vere injury or death.
All batteries, regardless of type, should be care-
fully secured by a battery hold-down device. If this is
not done, the battery terminals or casing may crack
from stress applied to the battery during vehicle oper-
ation. A battery which is not secured may allow acid
to leak out, making it discharge faster; such leaking m / built-in hydrometer. .

*Although the readings from built-in hy-
drometers found in sealed batteries may
vary, a green eye usually indicates a prop
erly charged battery with sufficient fluid
level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a
battery wlth sufficient fluid, but one which
may be low in charge. And a light or yellow
eye is usually an indication that electrolyte
supply has dropped below the necessary
tcu1@32 Fig. 53 A typical location for the built-in hv- level for battery (and hydrometer) operation.
drometer on maintenan
ce-free batteries ’ I In this last case. sealed batteries with an in-
sufficient electrolyte level must usually be
’ discarded.

G,ENERALlNFORMATlONAND MAINTENANCE l-17
Fig. 54 On
non-maintenance-free
batteries,
the fluid level can be checked through the Fig. 55 If the fluid
level
is low, add only dis-
1 case on translucent models; the cell caps 1
must be removed on other models
1 1 tilled water through the opening until the
1 level is correct
Checking the Specific Gravity
A hydrometer is required to check the specific
# See Figures 54, 55, and 56
gravity on all batteries that are not maintenance-free.
On batteries that are maintenance-free, the soecific
gravity is checked by observing the built-in hydrome-
ter “eye” on the top of the battery case. Check with
your battery’s manufacturer for proper interpretation
of its built-in hvdrometer readinas. gravity of the battery. It should be between 1.20 and As stated earlier, the specific gravity of a battery’s
electrolyte level can be u
1.26 on the gravity scale. Most auto supply stores sed as an indication of bat-
tery charge. At least once
carry a variety of inexpensive battery testing hydrom- ? a year, check the specific
eters. These can be used on any non-sealed battery
, , , ,,
.,, . .
IO rest me specmc gravny in each cell.
The battery testing hydrometer has a squeeze bulb
at one end and a nozzle at the other. Battery electrolyte
the hydrometer until the float is lifted
-he specific gravity is then read by not-
n of the float. If gravity is low in one or mg tne posrtro
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. If
you should splash any on your skin or in your
eyes, flush the affected area with plenty of
clear water. If it lands in your eyes, get med-
ical help immediately.
The fluid (sulfuric acid solution) contained in the
battery cells will tell you many things about the con-
dition of the battery. Because the cell plates must be
kept submerged below the fluid level in order to op-
erate, maintaining the fluid level is extremely impor-
tant. And. because the soecific aravitv of the acid is
an indication of electrical charge, testing the fluid can
be an aid in determining if the battery must be re-
placed. A battery in a vehicle with a properly operat-
ing charging system should require little mainte-
nance, but careful, periodic inspection should reveal
problems before they leave you stranded. Fig. 57 Maintenance is performed with
Fig. 58 The underside of this special bat-
household items and with special tools like
tery tool has a wire brush to clean post ter-
I this post cleaner
I 1 minals Fig. 56 Check the specific gravity of the bat-
tery’s electrolyte with a hydrometer
more cells, the battery should be slowly charged and
Lhecked aqain to see if the aravitv has come
UP. Gen-
erally, if affer charging, the specific gravity between any
two cells varies more than 50 points (0.50) the battery
should be replaced, as it can no longer produce suffi-
cient voltage to guarantee proper operation.
CABLES
) See Figures 57, 56, 69, 60, and 61
Once a year (or as necessary), the battery termi-
nals and the cable clamps should be cleaned. Loosen