change time MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

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1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-3
3-19mm, as well as a % in. or ~/a in. spark plug careful when using them, as they can change
socket (depending on plug type). the amount of torque applied to the socket.
-if possible, buy various length socket drive
l Jackstands for support.
extensions. Universal-joint and wobble ex- l Oil filter wrench.
tensions can be extremely useful, but be l Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
l Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless
your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fit-
tings-for details, please refer to information on Flu-
ids and Lubricants, later in this section).
l Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless
equiooed with a sealed, maintenance-free batten/).
In addition to the above items there are several O’ A container for draining oil and other fluids.
l Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.
pi 1 others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to
have around. These include Oil Dry@ (or an equiva-
lent oil absorbent gravel-such as cat litter) and the
usual SUDDIV of lubricants. antifreeze and fluids. al-
though the.& can be purchased as needed. This is a
basic list for routine maintenance, but only your per-
sonal needs and desire can accurately determine your
Fig. 1 Ail but the most basic procedures
After performing a few projects on the vehicle,
you’ll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on
lWSl2U2 Fig, 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of
jackstands are essential for lifting and sup
porting the vehicle tm1204 Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and ptybars
are great tools to have in your toolbox
Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, us-
ing specialized brake tools will save time
Fig. 11 inductive type timing light

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-21
IWSIZXJ FM. 83 A hose clamn that is taa tiaht can
Fig. 82 The cracks developing along this
hose are a result of age-related hardening caise older hoses td separate and ‘iear on
either side of the clamp
lCCS1221 Fig. 84 A soft spongy hose (identifiable by
1 the swollen section) will eventually burst
and should be replaced
IEMOVAL &,INSTALLATION '
1. Remove the radiator pressure cap. her of the sorina tension tvoe (which reouire oliers
3 squeeze the 6bs and loosenj or of the’screw ten-
ion type (which require screw or hex drivers to
oosen). Pull the clamps back on the hose away from
he connection. Never remove the pressure cap while the en-
gine is running, or personal injury from
scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If
possible, wait until the engine has cooled to
remove the pressure cap. If this is not possi-
ble, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure
cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back
while the pressure is released from the cool-
ing system. When you are sure all the pres-
sure has been released, use the cloth to turn
and remove the cao.
2. Position a clean container under the radiator
and/or engine draincock or plug, then open the drain
and allow the cooling system to drain to an appropri-
ate level. For some upper hoses, only a little coolant
must be drained. To remove hoses positioned lower
on the engine, such as a lower radiator hose, the en-
tire cooling system must be emptied.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that
cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene gly-
col antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink
any that is left in an uncovered container or
in puddles on the ground. This will prove fa-
tal in sufficient quantity. Always drain
coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
may be reused unless it is contaminated or
several years old. 9. Close the radiator or engine drains and prop-
erly refill the cooling system with the clean drained
engine coolant or a suitable mixture of ethylene gly-
cot coolant and water.
10. If available, install a pressure tester and check
for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available, run the
engine until normal operating temperature is reached
(allowing the system to naturally pressurize), then
check for leaks.
If you are checking for leaks with the system
at normal operating temperature, BE EX-
TREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving
or hot engine parts. Once temperature has
been reached. shut the enaine OFF. and
Fig. 85 Hoses are likely to deteriorate from
the inside if the cooling system is not peri-
odically flushed check for leaks around the-hose fittings and
connections which were removed earlier.
INSPECTION
b See Figures 88 and 87
The CV (Constant Velocity) boots should be
checked for damage each time the oil is changed and
any other time the vehicle is raised for service. These
boots keep water, grime, dirt and other damaging
matter from entering the CV-joints. Any of these
could cause early CV-joint failure which can be ex-
pensive to repair. Heavy grease thrown around the in-
side of the front wheel(s) and on the brake
caliper/drum can be an indication of a torn boot.
Thorouahlv check the boots for missina clamos and 3. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the
rose requiring replacement. Clamps are usually ei-
4. Twist, pull and slide the hose off the fitting,
sking care not to damage the neck of the component
rom which the hose is being removed.
*If the hose is stuck at the connection, do
lot try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp
ool under the hose end in an eff art to free it,
IS the connection and/or hose may become
lamaged. Heater connections especially
nay be easily damaged by such a procedure.
f the hose is to be replaced, use a single-
!dged razor blade to make a slice along the
lortion of the hose which is stuck on the con-
section, perpendicular to the end of the
lose. 00 not cut deep so as to prevent dam-
aging the connection. The hose can then be
keeled from the connection and discarded. Fig. 86 CV-boots must be inspected period-
5.. Clean both hose mounting connections. In-
,pect the condition of the hose clamps and replace
hem, if necessary.
To install:
6. Dip the ends of the new hose into clean en-
fine coolant to ease installation.
7. Slide the clamps over the replacement hose,
hen slide the hose ends over the connections into
rosition.
8. Position and secure the clamps at least l/d in.
6.35mm) from the ends of the hose. Make sure they
Ire located beyond the raised bead of the connector.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-31
When rotating “unidirectional tires,” make sure
that they always roll in the same direction. This
means that a tire used on the left side of the vehicle
must not be switched to the right side and vice-versa.
Such tires should only be rotated front-to-rear or
rear-to-front, while always remaining on the same
side of the vehicle. These tires are marked on the
sidewall as to the direction of rotation; observe the
marks when reinstalling the tire(s).
Some styled or “mag” wheels may have different
offsets front to rear. In these cases, the rear wheels
must not be used up front and vice-versa. Further-
more, if these wheels are equipped with unidirectional
tires, they cannot be rotated unless the tire is re-
mounted for the proper direction of rotation.
*The compact or space-saver spare is
strictly for emergency use. it must never be
included in the tire rotation or placed on the
vehicle for everyday use. check the installed tire for any sign of interference
with the body or suspension while the vehicle is stop-
ping, turning sharply or heavily loaded.
Snow Tires
Good radial tires can produce a big advantage in
slippery weather, but in snow, a street radial tire does
not have sufficient tread to provide traction and con-
trol. The small grooves of a street tire quickly pack
with snow and the tire behaves like a billiard ball on a
marble floor, The more open, chunky tread of a snow
tire will self-clean as the tire turns, providing much
better grip on snowy surfaces.
To satisfy municipalities requiring snow tires dur-
ing weather emergencies, most snow tires carry either
an M + S designation after the tire size stamped on
the sidewall, or the designation “all-season.” In gen-
eral, no change in tire size is necessary when buying
snow tires.
Most manufacturers stronqlv recommend the use styled wheels, see if inexpensive steel
wheels are available, Although the look of
the vehicle will change, the expensive
wheels will be protected from salt, curb hits
and pothole damage.
TIRESTORAGE
If they are mounted on wheels, store the tires at
proper inflation pressure. All tires should be kept in a
cool, dry place. If they are stored in the garage or
basement, do not let them stand on a concrete floor;
set them on strips of wood, a mat or a large stack of
newspaper. Keeping them away from direct moisture
is of paramount importance. Tires should not be
stored upright, but in a flat position.
INFLATION & INSPECTION
b See Figures 140 thru 147
TIRE DESIGN
p See Figure 139
for maximum satisfaction, tires should be used in
sets of four. Mixing of different types (radial, bias-
belted, fiberglass belted) must be avoided. In most
cases, the vehicle manufacturer has designated a
type of tire on which the vehicle will perform best.
Your first choice when replacing tires should be to
use the same type of tire that the manufacturer rec-
ommends.
When radial tires are used, tire sizes and wheel di-
ameters should be selected to maintain ground clear-
ante and tire load caoacitv eauivalent to the oriainal
specified tire. Radial tiresshould always be used in
sets of four. of 4 snow tires on their
lehicies for reasons of stabil-
ity. If snow tires are fitter
1 only to the drive wheels, the
opposite end of the vehil cle may become very unsta-
ble when braking or turn
ring on slippery surfaces.
This instability can lead to unpleasant endings if the
A*:,,“- r-..l, ^_.. ..& ^_^^, &I.
UIIVU MII I LUUII~~MLL iue slide in time.
Note that snow tires, whether 2 or 4, will affect ve-
hicle handling in all non-snow situations. The stiffer,
heavier snow tires will noticeably change the turning
and braking characteristics of the vehicle. Once the
snow tires are installed, you must re-learn the behav-
ior of the vehicle and drive accordingly.
*Consider buying extra wheels on which to
mount the snow tires. Once done, the “snow
iheeis” can be installed and removed as
needed. This eliminates the potential
dam- age to tires or wheels from seasonal removal
and installation. Even if your vehicle has
lb The importance of proper tire inflation cannot be
overemphasized. A tire employs air as part of its
structure. It is designed around the supporting
strength of the air at a specified pressure. For this
reason, improper inflation drastically reduces the
tire’s ability to perform as intended. A tire will lose
some air in day-to-day use; having to add a few
pounds of air periodically is not necessarily a sign of
a leaking tire.
Two items should be a permanent fixture in every
glove compartment: an accurate tire pressure gauge
and a tread depth gauge. Check the tire pressure (in-
eluding the spare) regularly with a pocket type gauge.
Too often, the gauge on the end of the air hose at
vnr rr corner narane is not accurate because it suffers
~rs check tire oressure when the
Radial tires should never be used on only the
XI I._.
‘-’ --“‘“’ J s too much abuse. Alwa!
tires are cold, as pressure increases with tempera-
ture. If you must move the vehicle to check the tire
front axle.
When selecting tires, pay attention to the original
size as marked on the tire. Most tires are described
using an industry size code sometimes referred to as
P-Metric. This allows the exact identification of the
tire specifications, regardless of the manufacturer. If
selecting a different tire size or brand, remember to
METRIC TIRE SIZES
(MILLIMETERS)
145 CDNStRUCtlDN l-6-E
R - RADIAL
D
WA9
Fig. 139 P-Metric tire coding Fig. 140 Tires should be checked frequently
I I Fig. 141 Tires with deep cuts, or cuts which
for any sion of auncture or damaoe
buioe, should be replaced immediately
l DRIVE WHEEL HEAW
ACCELERATION
l OVERINFLATION
*LACK OF ROTATION
Fig. 142 Examples of inflation-related tire
RADIAL TIRE
fig. 143 Radial tires have a characteristic
sidewall bulge; don’t try to measure pres-
sure by looking at the tire. Use a quality air
pressure gauge

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1-32 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
CONDITION
EFFECT
CAUSE
CORRECTION UNDER-INFLATION
EXCESSIVE SPEED’ WORN OR OUT-
OF-ALIGNMENT
ADJUST PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS WHEN
TIRES ARE COOL
ROTATE TIRES
/ BALANCE WHEELS INSPECT SUSPENSION
HAVE TIRE INSPECTED FOR FURTHER USE.
lCCSi267 ig. 144 Common tire wear patterns and causes
1~~~1265 Fig. 145 Tread wear indicators will appear
when the tire is worn
inflation, do not drive more than a mile before check-
ing. A cold tire is generally one that has not been dri-
ven for more than three hours.
A plate or sticker is normally provided somewhere
in the vehicle (door post, hood, tailgate or trunk lid)
which shows the proper pressure for the tires. Never
counteract excessive pressure build-up by bleeding
off air pressure (letting some air out). This will cause
the tire to run hotter and wear quicker.
Never exceed the maximum tire pressure
embossed on the tire! This is the pressure to
be used when the tire is at maximum load-
ing, but it is rarely the correct pressure for
everyday driving. Consult the owner’s man-
ual or the tire pressure sticker for the correct
tire pressure.
Once you’ve maintained the correct tire pressures
for several weeks, you’ll be familiar with the vehicle’s
braking and handling personality. Slight adjustments
in tire pressures can fine-tune these characteristics,
1~~~1264 Fig. 146 Accurate tread depth indicators are
inexuensive and handv
Fig. 147 A penny works well for a quick
check of tread death
but never change the cold pressure specification by
more than 2 psi. A slightly softer tire pressure will
give a softer ride but also yield lower fuel mileage. A
slightly harder tire will give crisper dry road handling
but can cause skidding on wet surfaces. Unless
you’re fully attuned to the vehicle, stick to the recom-
mended inflation pressures.
All tires made since 1968 have built-in tread wear
indicator bars that show up as j/2 in. (13mm) wide
smooth bands across the bre when V,~ in. (1.5mm) of
tread remains. The appearance of tread wear indica-
tors means that the tires should be replaced. In fact,
many states have laws prohibiting the use of tires
with less than this amount of tread.
You can check your own tread depth with an inex-
pensive gauge or by using a Lincoln head penny.
Shp the Lrncoln penny (with Lincoln’s head upside- down) into several tread grooves. If you can see the
top of Lincoln’s head in 2 adjacent grooves, the tire
has less than V,~ in. (1.5mm) tread left and should be
replaced. You can measure snow tires in the same
manner by using the “tails” side of the Lincoln
penny. If you can see the top of the Lincoln memor-
ial, its time to replace the snow tire(s).
CAREOFSPECIALWHEELS
If you have invested money in magnesium, alu-
minum alloy or sport wheels, special precautions
should be taken to make sure your investment is not
wasted and that your special wheels look good for the
life of the vehicle.
Special wheels are easily damaged and/or
scratched. Occasionally check the rims for cracking,
impact damage or air leaks. If any of these are found,
replace the wheel. But in order to prevent this type of
damage and the costly replacement of a special
wheel, observe the following precautions:
l Use extra care not to damage the wheels dur-
ing removal, installation, balancing, etc. After re-
moval of the wheels from the vehicle, place them on a
mat or other protective surface. If they are to be
stored for any length of time, support them on strips
of wood. Never store tires and wheels upright; the
tread may develop flat spots.
l When driving, watch for hazards; it doesn’t take
much to crack a wheel.
l When washing, use a mild soap or non-abra-
sive dish detergent (keeping in mind that detergent
tends to remove wax). Avoid cleansers with abrasives
or the use of hard brushes. There are many cleaners
and polishes for special wheels.
l If possrble, remove the wheels during the win-
ter. Salt and sand used for snow removal can se-
verely damage the finish of a wheel.
l Make certain the recommended lug nut torque
is never exceeded or the wheel may crack. Never use
snow chains on special wheels; severe scratching
will occur.

.
l-34 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Engine oil level should be checked every time you
put fuel in the vehicle or are under the hood perform- miles of highway driving. Fluid which is warmed to
normal operating temperature will flow faster, drain
ing other maintenance.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The enaine mav be either hot or cold when
, if it is hot, wait a few min- checking oil level. The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a num’ * * *
dianrAnrr inrldinn ranrnrl V#lll more completely and remove more contaminants
frnm tho clnnine
utes after the engine has been turned OFF to allow the
oil to drain back into the crankcase. If the engine is
cold, do not start it before checking the oil level. point on the oil pan. If not, you may have to raise the
vehicle slightly higher on one jackstand (side) than
3. Open the hood and locate the engine oil dip-
stick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the diDstick is fullv in-
serted.
4. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it to used engin
be worn whet
handsandan
so*m ..#a . . . . .
IDer 01 SKlll u,yu,u=,+, ,,,u,uu,,,u uu,,u=, i , vu should
uff art to minimize your exposure
le oil. Protective gloves should
1 changing the oil. Wash your
y other exposed skin areas as
111 aJ vv4ble after exposure to used en-
m nil St-mn mwl w&or nr umtarlncr hand gin Y “II. ““up “ll” .,U.“I, “rn W.Y.“. .““I .I....” cleaner should be used.
horizontally, read the oil level. The oilshould be be-
tween the MIN and MAX marks or the notches on the
dipstick. If the oil is below the MIN mark or lower
notch, add oil of the proper viscosity through the
capped opening of the valve cover. *The engine oil and oil filter should be
changed at the recommended intervals on
the Maintenance Chart. Though some manu-
facturers have at times recommended chang-
ing the filter only at every other oil change, ’
Chilton recommends that you always change
ll”,,, Cl>” ““y”‘“. 1. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jack-
stands. Make sure the oil drain olua is at the lowest
the other.
2. Before you crawl under the vehicle, take a look
at where you will be working and gather all the nec-
essary tools, such as a few wrenches or a ratchet and
strip of sockets, the drain pan, some clean rags and,
if the oil filter is more accessible from underneath the
vehicle, you will also want to grab a bottle of oil, the
new filter and a filter wrench at this time.
5. Reolace the diostick. and check the level aaain
. The benefit of fresh oil
p See Figures 152 thru 153
The oil and filter should be changed every 7,500
miles (12,000 km) under normal service and every
3,000 miles (5,000 km) under severe service.
93151p-55 Fig. 152 loosen the drain plug on the en-
a wrench. The drain plug’s 3. Position the drain pan beneath the oil pan
drain plug. Keep in mind that the fast flowing oil,
which will spill out as you pull the plug from the pan,
will flow with enough force that it could miss the pan.
Position the drain pan accordingly and be ready to
move the pan more directly beneath the plug as the
oil flow lessens to a trickle.
4. Loosen the drain ~lua with a wrench (or socket
and driver), then carefuliy unscrew the plug with your
fingers. Use a rag to shield your fingers from the
heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew it so you
draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at oper- can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the
ating temperature. Hot oil will hold more impurities hole (and so you will keep the oil from seeping past
in suspension and will flow better, allowing the re- the threads until you are ready to remove the plug).
moval of more oil and dirt. You can then remove the plug quickly to avoid hav-
It is a good idea to warm the engine oil first so it ing hot oil run down your arm. This will also help as-
will flow better. This can be accomolished bv 15-20 sure that have the plug in your hand, not in the bot-
tom of a pan of hot oil.
Fig. 153 When loosened sufficiently, slowly
turn the drain plug by hand, keeping con- Fig. 154 When you are ready, carefully pull
Fig. 156 Also inspect the drain plug th
before installing it back into the oil
Fig. 155 Clean and inspect the threads on
the oil pan Make sure the gasket on the drain plug is
in place and does not require replacement Fig. 157 A plier-type filter wrench Is used
here to loosen the filter

ENGINEELECTRICAL 2-7
3. Detach the electrical connectors for the COIL
4. Remove the retaining screws and coil from en-
gine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
1997-00 1.81 and 1994-00 2.4L Engines
) See Figure 31
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the electrical connector(s) for the
coil(s).
3. Remove the spark plug wire(s) to the compan-
ion cylinder(s).
4 Remove the coil retaining bolts and lift the coil
from the cylinder head.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figure 32
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the intake manifold plenum (upper in-
take mamfold) Refer to Section 3.
3. Tag and remove the spark plug wires from the
ignition coil by gripping the boot and not the cable.
4 Detach the electrical connectors for the coil.
5. Remove the retaining screws and coil from en-
gine.
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1 AL, 2.01 DOHC, and 2.4L DOHC Engines
) See Figure 30
1 lgnltlo” co,,
2 sparlt plug case
3 Spark plug
4 Imltlon fatlure semm
93152g1:
Fig. 31 Ignition system component loca,
iions-1997-00 1.8L engine shown
1999-00 2.4L engine similar
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the electrical connectors for the transis-
tor.
3. Remove the retaining screws and remove the
transistor from engine.
4. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
1.8L and 1999-00 2.4L Engines
The power transistor (ignition module) is an inte-
gral part of the powertrain control module.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figure 32
9315291 Fig. 32 Ignition system component loca,
tions-3.01 DOHC engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the intake manifold plenum (upper in-
take manifold). Refer to Section 3.
3 Detach the electrical connectors for the transis-
tor.
4. Remove the retaining screws and remove the
transistor from engine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
For procedures on the positlon sensors, please re-
fer to Section 4 in this manual.
# See Figures 33 thru 40
*To avoid confusion, remove and tag the
spark plug wires one at a time, for replace-
ment.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with
only one orientation, it could have been removed pre-
viously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold
the correct firing order, but could change the relative
placement of the plug towers in relation to the en-
gine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all
wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before
removal, compare the current wiring with the accom-
panying illustrations. If the current wiring does not
match, make notes in your book to reflect how your
engine is wired.
ujamm-p:@
79233921
Fig. 33 1.5L (4615) and 1993-96 1.81
(4693) engines
Firing order: l-3-4-2
Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise 7923392: :ig. 34 2.OL (4663) SOHC engine
‘iring order: l-3-4-2
Distributor rotation: Clockwise

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-57
Anything that generates heat and/or friction WIII
eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb
generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With
this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous
amounts of both; friction is encountered by the mov-
ing and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is
created by friction and combustion of the fuel How-
ever, the engine has systems designed to help reduce
the effects of heat and friction and provide added
longevrty. The oiling system reduces the amount of
friction encountered by the moving parts inside the
engine, while the cooling system reduces heat cre-
ated by friction and combustion If either system is
not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can
affect the service life of your vehicle, If you do not
drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits WIII begin to accumulate in
the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it
can extract from the coolant The same applies to
your oil and filter; If it is not changed often enough it
becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to
properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction
and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluating the
condition of your engine. A compression test can re-
veal the condition of your pistons, piston rings,
cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve
seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible
engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessrve oil
consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake
area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indi-
cate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or
valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no
more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in
good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or
more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked
for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them
fixed before determining how much oil is consumed
by the engine, especrally if blue smoke is not visible
at the tailpipe
COMPRESSION TEST
# See Figure 226
tccs3801 Fig. 226 A screw-in type compression gauge
is more accurate and easier to use without
an assistant
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil
consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured
over an extended period are all indicators of internal
engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn
cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt
valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits.
A check of each cylinders compression WIII help lo-
cate the problem.
*A screw-in type compression gauge is
more accurate than the type you simply hold
against the spark plug hole. Although it takes
slightly longer to use, it’s worth the effort to
obtain a more accurate reading.
1 Make sure that the proper amount and vis-
cosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure
the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating
temperature, then shut the engine
OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug
wires from the plugs,
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area
around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark
plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-
open throttle) position You can block the accelerator
linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant
fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge
into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug
hole.
8. According to the tool manufacturers instruc-
tions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting
circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the
OFF position,
use the remote starting switch to crank the engine
through at least five compression strokes (approxi-
mately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest
reading on the gauge
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the
engine approximately the same number of compres-
sion strokes and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the hrghest readings from each
cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compres-
sion pressures are considered within specifications if
the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder
For example, if your highest reading cylinder pres-
sure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that
would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low com-
pression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine
oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and
repeat the compression test. If the compression rises
after adding oil, it means that the cylinder’s piston
rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn, If
the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seat-
ing properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gas-
ket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addi-
tion of oil doesn’t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the
combustion chamber, combined with blue or con-
stant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of
this problem. However, don’t be alarmed by the nor-
mal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during en-
gine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There
may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dip-
stick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a
head gasket is blown.
OIL PRESSURETEST
Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit
passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil
pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory
Installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may
also be needed, as some specifications may require
running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil
pressure sending unit.
2. Followrng the manufacturers instructions,
connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if nec-
essary, a tachometer to the engine.
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4 Check the oil pressure reading when cold and
record the number. You may need to run the engine
at a specified rpm, so check the specifications,
5. Run the engine until normal operating temper-
ature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm)
6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the
engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine
OFF. 7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that
given in the chart If the reading is low, check the
cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold
pressure IS well above the specification, and the hot
reading was lower than the specification, you may
have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change
the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and
quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to
internal component wear, pump related problems, a
low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil
pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled
crankcase, too htgh of an oil viscosity or a faulty
pressure relief valve.
Now that you have determined that your engine is
worn out, you must make some decisions. The ques-
tion of whether or not an engine IS worth rebuilding
is largely a subjective matter and one of personal
worth. Is the engine a popular one, or IS it an obso-
lete model? Are parts available? Will it get acceptable
gas mileage once It is rebuilt? Is the car its being put
into worth keeping? Would it be less expensive to
buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro,
rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a sal-
vage yard? Or would It be simpler and less expensive
to buy another car? If you have considered all these
matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild
the engine, then it is time to decide how you will re-
build it.

3-60 ENGINE/
-w
remove any covers remaining on the engine such as
on today’s automobiles: the Overhead Valve (OHV)
and the Overhead Camshaft (OHC). The latter can
also be broken down into two subgroups: the Single the rocker arm, front or timing cover and oil pan.
Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) and the Dual Overhead
Camshaft (DOHC). Generally, if there is only a single
camshaft on a head. it is iust referred to as an OHC Some front covers may require the vibration damper
and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand. The
idea is to reduce the engine to the bare necessities
(cylinder head(s), valve train, engine block, crank-
shaft, pistons and connecting rods), plus any other
‘in block’ components such as oil pumps, balance
shafts and auxiliary shafts.
Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the en-
gine block and carefully place on a bench. Disassem-
bly instructions for each component follow later in
this section.
There are two basic types of cylinder heads used
Most cylinder heads these days are made of an
aluminum alloy due to its light weight, durability and
L--L I _--- 1^- _..^ I:,:^^ I I ^...^. .^_ ^^^I :_-_ ..^^ ,L- same environment. The same goes for any other unchanged. One aspect to pay attention to is careful
component on the cylinder head. Think of it as an in- labeling of the parts on the dual camshaft cylinder
“’ surance policy against future problems related to that head. There will be an intake camshaft and followers
component. as well as an exhaust camshaft and followers and
Unfortunately, the only way to find out which com- they must be labeled as such. In some cases, the
ponents need replacing, is to disassemble and care- components are identical and could easily be in-
fully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are stalled incorrectly. DO NOT MIX THEM UP! Deter-
disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the compo- mining which is which is very simple; the intake
nents. camshaft and components are on the same side of
DISASSEMBLY the head as was the intake manifold. Conversely, the
exhaust camshaft and components are on the same
side of the head as was the exhaust manifold.
ti See Figures 237 and 238
Whether it is a single or dual overhead camshaft Cup Type Camshaft Followers
cylinder head, the disassembly procedure is relatively 6 See Figures 239, 240, and 241
t “” ““’ 1 Most cylinder heads with cup type camshaft fol-
1 1 head. Also, an engine with an OHV cylinder head is j:, ’
I also known as a pushrod engine. : .; :-,
_I lowers will have the valve spring, retainer and locks
recessed within the followers bore. You will need a
C-clamp style valve spring compressor tool, an OHC
spring removal tool (or equivalent) and a small mag-
net to disassemble the head.
1. If not already removed, remove the camshaft(s)
and/or followers, Mark their positions for assembly.
2. Position the cylinder head to allow use of a C-
clamp style valve spring compressor tool.
IIRN il~llSlt?l ~Lldll~l~S. IlUWttVtJ, MS1 11011 W8S lilt: material of choice in the past, and is still used on
many vehicles today. Whether made from aluminum
or iron, all cylinder heads have valves and seats.
Some use fwo valves per cylinder, while the more hi-
tech engines will utilize a multi-valve configuration
using 3‘4 and even 5 valves per cylinder. When the
valve contacts the seat, it does so on precision ma-
chined surfaces, which seals the combustion cham-
ber, All cylinder heads have a valve guide for each
valve. The auide centers the valve to the seat and al-
lows it to move up and down within it. The clearance
between the valve and guide can be critical. Too
much clearance and the engine may consume oil,
lose vacuum and/or damaae the seat. Too little. and
the valve can stick in the guide causing the engine to
run poorly if at all, and possibly causing severe dam-
age. The last component all cylinder heads have are
valve springs. The spring holds the valve against its
seat. It also returns the valve to this position when
the valve has been opened by the valve train or
camshaft. The spring is fastened to the valve by a re-
tainer and valve locks (sometimes called keepers).
Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim
to keep the spring from wearing away the aluminum. Fig, 237 Exploded view of a valve, seal,
1 cylinder head ----r- 1 spring, retamer and locks from an OHC
An ideal method of rebuilding the cylinder head
would involve replacing all of the valves, guides,
seats, springs, etc. with new ones. However, depend-
ing on how the engine was maintained, often this is
not necessary. A major cause of valve, guide and seat
wear is an improperly tuned engine. An engine that is
~~f~t~~ rich, will often wash the lubricating oil
out ofthe guide with gasoline, causing it to wear
~~fdfy. lonely, an engine which is running too
lean wifl pface higher combustion temperatures on
Me valves and seats allowing them to wear or even
bum. Springs fall victim to the driving habits of the
f~~iduaf. A driver who often runs the engine rpm to
tfre redfine will wear out or break the springs faster
then one tfrat stays well below it. Unfortunately,
mileage takes it tot1 on all of the parts. Generally, the
valves, guides, springs and seats in a cylinder head
can be machined and re-used, saving you money.
.However, if a valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace
all of the valves, since they were all operating in the oi a multi-valve cylinder
t has 2 intake
and 2 ex-
At is preferred to position the cylinder head lasket’surtace facing you with tee valve
springs facing the opposite direction and the
lead laying horizontal.
3. With the OHC spring removal adapter tool po-
,itioned inside of the follower bore, compress the
alve spring using the C-clamp style valve spring
:ompressor.
tcca3p51 fig. 239 C-clamp type spring compressor
and an OHC spring removal tool (center) for
cup type followers
Fig. 240 Most cup type follower cylinder
/ heads retain the camshaft using bolt-on
bearing caps

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-63
Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Valves
Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the
center of the straightedge and across the cylinder Any valves that were not replaced should be
head at several points. Check along the centerline refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have ac-
and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage cess to a valve grinding machine, this should be
exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. done by a machine shop. If the valves are in ex-
(152cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total tremely good condition, as well as the valve seats
length of the head, the cylinder head must be resur- and guides, they may be lapped in without petform-
,
I mg macnme worK.
4
It is a recnmmended practice to lap the valves faced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine
the intake manifold flange surface should be checker,
and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for
the change in its mounting position. _ - _ _ _ .- - - _
even after machine work has been p&formed and/or
new valves have been purchased. This insures a pos-
itive seal between the valve and seat.
-guide clearance; the 1
read
. .
into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator
against the valve stem near the tie and zero the
gauge. Grasp the valve stem and’wiggle towards and
away from the dial indicator and observe the read-
ings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the
initial point and zero the gauge and again take a read-
ing. Compare the two readings for a out of round
condition. Check the readings against the specifica-
tions given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed
for valve guides will give you an accurate valve guide
bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare
the readings with the specifications given. Any CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE
Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion
chamber, hbwever, it is not uncommon for the head
to crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the
head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first
area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust
.I *
seawpon area.
8 I .,“““I llly”Lv”l~ .ml”“l” - plr”llll”“, ““I ,“a’
because you don’t see a crack does not mean it is not
there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for
cracks include Magnaflux? a magn$i,c process or
Zyglo? a dye penetrant. Ma{ -’
InatluxW IS used only on
ferrous metal (cast iron) heat Is. Zyglo@ uses a spray
on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to re-
veal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have
your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks,
especially if the engine was known to have over-
I .* I,. ..^.. LAPPING THE VALVES
*Before iaoaino the valves to the seats,
read the rest of the cylinder head section to
insure that any related parts are in accept-
able enough condition to continue.
*Before anv valve seat machining and/or
lapping can be performed, the guides must
be within factory recommended specifica-
tions.
1. Invert the cylinder head.
2. Linhtlv Iuhrir;rB the valve stems and insert
-. _ ~ . . . . . .--.._-._
them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.
3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small
amount of fine lanninn compound to the seat.
4.
i guides that fail these inspections should be replaced nearea analor ieaKea or consumea coolant. Contact a Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping
tool and attach it to the head of the valve.
i or machined. local shop for availability and pricing of these ser-
5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both
I vices.
I
VALVE SEATS Physical damage is usually very evident. For ex- hands, changing the position of the valve on the
valve seat and lifting the tool often to prevent groov-
A visual inspection of the valve seats should show
amnb P hrnbn mntlntinn ear from dropping the I and/or bolt. All of these ing.
.a,... . 6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is
a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve
face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for
severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is badly
worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A se-
verely worn or recessed seat may need to be re- uetecIs SIIOUIO oe nxea or, IT unrepairaole, me neaa
should be replaced.
Camshaft and Followers evid
7
traces of the grinding corn
to maintain its lapped loca lent on the valve and seat.
‘. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all
pound and store the valve
placed: All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat
concentricity gauge, if available, should be used to
check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifica-
tions the seat must be machined (if no soecification
is given use 0.002 in. or O.O51mt$. Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described
earlier in this section.
REFINISHING & REPAIRING Do not get the valves out of order after they
have been lapped. They must be put back
: ..^^ I... --I:^:-L!-- --A
Many of the procedures gIveI
WI WIIIIISIIIIIIJ ~IIU repairing the cylinder head components must be per-
formed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the in-
spected part is not worn, can be performed yourself
inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and
effort so far, why risk trying to save a couple bucks if
you might have to do it all over again?
I- with the same valve seat with which they
were lapped.
Springs, Retainers and Valve locks
There is no repair or refinishing possible with the
springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found to
be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new
lor known nnod narts CYLtNDEt? HEAD SURFACE FLATNESS
) See Figures 256 and 257
After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the
cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the
head for flatness.
\- - a---r r- .-.
Cylinder Head
Most refinishing procedures dealing with the
VALVE GWDE
elf any machining or replacements are
e valve guides, the seats must be
Fig. 257 Checks should also be made along Unless the valve guides need machining or re-
placing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly‘
clean them of any dirt or oil residue.