height adjustment MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual
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Page 288 of 408

DRIVETRAIN 7-9
*When adjusting the clutch pedal height or
the clutch pedal clevis pin play, be careful
not to push the pushrod toward the master
cylinder.
d. Check that when the clutch pedal is de-
pressed all the way, the interlock switch switches
over from ON to OFF.
ADJUSTMENT
# See Figure 42
*The following adjustment is for the cable
actuated clutch system on the Mirage. The
Hydraulic systems on all other models are
self-adjusting.
1. Measure the clutch pedal height (measurement
A). The specificatron is 6.38-6.50 in.
(162-165mm).
*The clutch pedal height is not adjustable.
If not within specifications, part replacement
is required.
2. Depress clutch pedal several times and check
the pedal free-play (measurement B).
3. If measurement is not 0.67-0.87 in.
(17-22mm), adjustment is required.
4. To adjust, turn the outer cable adjusting nut,
located at the firewall, until free-play is within range.
5. Depress the clutch pedal several times and
recheck the measurement.
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION
1. Rotate the adjusting wheel counterclockwise to
loosen the cable.
2. Remove the cable retaining clamps.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the clutch actuat-
ing arm at the transaxle and disconnect the cable.
4. Disconnect the cable at the pedal and remove
the cable from the vehicle.
rln order to prevent cable binding or abra-
sion, be sure to take note of the cable rout-
ing, so that it can be reinstalled in the same
position.
To install:
5. Route the cable and make the connection at the
clutch pedal.
6. Make the connection at the transaxle and se-
cure the cable with the retaining clamp. Install a new
cotter pin.
7. Lubricate all pivot points.
8 Adjust the cable to achieve proper free-play.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
I
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove necessary underhood components in
order to gain access to the clutch master cylinder.
Clutch pedal height
Fig. 42 Clutch pedal height (A) measure-
ment-Mirage
7923PGDl
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle to
catch the fluid once the line IS drsconnected, or place
a rag or shop towel under the fluid line of the master
cylinder.
4. Loosen the line at the cylinder and allow the
fluid to drain.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a oainted surface; it will damage the paint.
5. Remove the clevis pin retainer at the clutch
pedal and remove the washer and clevis pm.
6. Remove the 2 nuts and pull the cylinder from
the firewall. A seal should be between the mounting
flange and firewall. This seal should be replaced.
7. The installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
8. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
9. Bleed the system at the slave cylinder using
DOT 3 brake fluid and check the adjustment of the
clutch pedal.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove necessary underhood components in
order to gain access to the clutch release cylinder.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle,
then remove the hydraulic line and allow the system
to drain.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a uainted surface; it will damage the paint.
4. Remove the bolts and pull the cylinder from
the transaxle housing. On some 1.5L engines, in-
stead of a pushrod bearing against the clutch arm, a
clevis pin and yoke is used. Simply remove the cir-
clip, pull out the clevis pin and remove the cylinder.
5. The installation IS the reverse of the removal
procedure.
6. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
7. Bleed the system using DOT 3 brake fluid.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
) See Figure 43
With Hydraulic Clutch
1, Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid meeting
DOT 3 specificatrons.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
2. Press the clutch pedal to the floor, then open
the bleeder screw on the slave cvlinder.
3. Tighten the bleed screw and release the clutch
pedal.
4. Repeat the procedure until the fluid is free of
air bubbles.
7923PG91 Fig. 43 Bleeding a typical clutch hydraulic
system
Page 340 of 408

9-4 BRAKES
Fig 8 Unfasten the master cylinder-to-
power booster retaining nuts . . . F57g’6~ Fig. 9 . . . then remove the master cylinder
assembly from the vehicle Fig. 10 The brake booster pushrod and prf-
mary piston clearance (A) must be adjusted
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,
then use a clean turkey baster or equivalent to siphon
out as much fluid as possible and place in a suitable
container. Install the cap.
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa-
ter for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists,
or if you have taken brake fluid internally,
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
3. Disconnect and plug the lines from the brake
master cylinder reservoir.
4. Detach the fluid level sensor connector, un-
fasten the retainers, then remove the master cylinder
reservoir.
5. For vehicles equipped with manual transaxle,
remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir bracket.
6. Disconnect and plug the brake lines from the
master cylinder.
7. Unfasten the master cylinder-to-power
booster retainino nuts, then remove the master cvlin- ante value will become 0.004-0.012 in.
(0.1-0.3mm).
9. install the master cylinder to the brake
booster, then install the retaining nuts. Tighten the
nuts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
10. Install the master cylinder reservoir, securing
the retainers.
11. Attach the fluid level sensor connector, then
unplug and connect the fluid lines to the reservoir.
12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of
the removal procedure. Fill the reservoir with the
proper type and amount of DOT 3 brake fluid from a
fresh, sealed container.
I l
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint. Measure the brake pedal height from the floor of
the vehicle to the upper surface of the brake pedal.
The distance should be 6.9-7.1 in (176181mm). If
the brake pedal height is incorrect, adjust as follows:
1. Detach the stop lamp switch connector.
2. Loosen the locknut on the base of the stop
light switch and move the switch to a position where
it does not contact the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the operating rod locknut. Adjust the
height of the brake pedal by turning the operating rod
using pliers. Once the desired pedal height is ob-
tained, tighten the locknut on the operating rod.
4. Screw the stop light switch until the it contacts
the brake pedal stopper. Turn switch in until the
brake pedal just starts to move. At this point, return
(loosen) the stoplight switch $-1 turn and secure in
this position by tightening the locknut. In this posi-
tion, the distance between the lower stop light switch
case and the brake pedal stop should be 0.02-0.04
in. (0.5-l .Omm).
5. Attach the electrical connector to the stop light
switch.
6. Check to be sure that the stop lights are not il-
luminated with no pressure on the brake pedal.
7. Without starting the vehicle, depress the brake
pedal. If the brake light switch is properly connected,
the brake lights will illuminate.
der from the vefiicle.
To install:
8. Adjust the clearance (A)
booster pushrod ant
a. Calculate tl -,
between the brake
I the primary piston as follows:
le clearance A from the B, C
accompa-
i D.
I.335 in.
negative and D measurements, as shown in the
nying figure.A equals B minus C minus
b. The clearance should be 0.256-t
(0.65-0.858mm). When brake booster I
pressure 9.7 psi (67 kPa) is applied, then clear- 13. Bleed the brake system, as outlined later in
this section.
14. Adjust the brake pedal, as outlined later in
this section.
BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENTS
Brake Pedal Height
b See Figures 11, 12, and 13 Brake Pedal Free-Play
II See Figure 14
1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal
fully several times to evacuate the vacuum in the
booster.
2. Once all the vacuum assist has been elimi-
nated, press the brake pedal down by hand and con-
/
0.5-1.0 mm (.020-B40in.J I
I
I I
Fig. 12 Adjust the brake pedal height by in- I I.
@57w
Cir 44 “a*., .._^ *I.- 9.--l,- ---I-* L-@-L. -I Fig. 13 Inspect the clearance between thf . . - _-.L -*.a- - . . * _ . . . . ._ . rly. I I rnca~urc we urime peoai nefgnr ar
A and compare to specifications creasmg or aecreasing the lengrn or me op-
erating rod mop llgnt WItCh arm the brake pedal stop
and compare to specifications
Page 371 of 408

BODYANDTRIM 10-3
3. Check the hood latch operation; it should en-
gage easily and smoothly. The latch should release
without the use of excessive force. The hood latch
mounting bolts may be loosened; the latch can be
adjusted left/right or up/down to compensate for the
hood striker position.
4. With the hood closed and latched, check the
height of the hood. It should sit even with the fender
tops; this dimension may be adjusted by turning the
hood stops to a higher or lower position. Note that
adjusting these stops may require readjustment of the
latch to position the hood correctly.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1999-92 Mirage
1. Disconnect the liftgate support or strut. The
9315Ql10 struts are held by either a cross-point screw or a bolt.
2. Disconnect the washer tube running to the
glass.
3. Disconnect any necessary wiring harnesses.
4. Close the hatch. From the inside of the vehi-
cle, remove the nuts holding the lid to the hinge.
With an assistant. carefullv ooen the lid and remove it
from the car. ’
To install:
5. Fit the hatch into place and install the nuts
finger tight.
6. Reinstall the support.
7. Close the tailgate and align it by checking the
seam all around. Thegap must be equal and even.
Align the hatch by moving it on the hinges until cor-
rectly placed, then tighten the hinge nuts to 11 ft. Ibs.
(15 Nm).
8. Attach the electrical harnesses.
9. Connect the rear windshield washer tube.
Make sure it is pressed firmly onto the fitting.
10. Check the alignment of the hatch.
ALIGNMENT
Close the hatch and align it by checking the seam
all around. The gap must be equal and even. Align
the hatch by moving it on the hinges until correctly
placed, then tighten the hinge nuts. The final position
of the lid may be further adjusted by moving the latch
and/or striker on their mounts. When fully closed, the
hatch must be flush with the surrounding body pan-
els. Minor adjustments in this dimension may be
made by turning the rubber bumpers in or out as
needed.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
then remove the hose retaining
ALIGNMENT
1, Close the hood, at least engaging the first
latch, and check the hood-to-fender and hood-to-
cowl seams and alignment. Re-open the hood and Fig. 7 With an assistant supporting the
make adjustments as needed to give equal seams all
around. When the hood is in final alignment, tighten
the hinge bolts.
2. Reconnect the washer lines and any electrical
lines which were disconnected. Diamante Wagon
ti See Figure 8
1. Disconnect the tailgate support.
2. Disconnect the washer fluid tube.
3. Disconnect any necessary wiring harnesses.
4. Have an assistant support the tailgate.
5. Remove the nuts holding the tailgate to the
hinge.
Page 372 of 408

10-4 BODYANDTRIM
Fig. 8 Tailgate assembly mounting-Dia-
mante Wagon
6. Remove the tailgate from the vehicle and place
it in a safe place.
7. The installation is the reverse of removal.
Tighten the hinge
nuts to IO ft. Ibs. (14 Nm).
8. Check the alignment of the tailgate.
ALIGNMENT
To adjust the tailgate, loosen the tailgate hinge-to-
body bolts or tailgate latch assembly mounting
screws and adjust as necessary.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Open the trunk lid. Identify the trunk release
cable running from the latch to the body.
3. Disconnect the cable from the latch.
4. Detach any necessary electrical connectors.
5. Outline the position of the hinges on the
trunk lid.
6. Support the trunk lid in the open position.
7. If equipped, insert a small prytool into the
lock cover slit, remove the lock covers, then remove
the trunk lid gas springs.
8. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the
trunk lid hinges.
9. Remove the trunk lid from the vehicle
10. Installation is the reverse of the removal pro-
cedure.
11. If necessary, align the trunk lid.
ALIGNMENT
1. Close the lid and check both the seam width
all around and the closed height. The trunk lid must
be flush with the adjacent panels. Minor height ad-
justments may be made by turning the rubber
bumpers on the trunk lid. Additional adjustments re-
quire loosening and repositioning of the latch and/or
striker.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
? See Figure 9
1. Knob 2. Delta cover inner
3. Boot
4. Door mirror
5. Mirror
Fig. .9 Outside door mirror
1994-98 Galant shown
, others 9315oQ1 i mounting-
similar
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the delta cover (the triangular trim
cover) from the top of the door panel.
3. On manual mirrors remove the set screw and
the adjustment knob.
4. If the mirror is electric, disconnect the wire
harness.
5. Remove the mounting nuts and the door trim
bracket.
6. Lift the mirror from the vehicle.
To install: 7. Position the mirror on the vehicle.
8. Install the door trim bracket and the mount-
ing nuts.
9. If the mirror is electric, reconnect the wire
harness.
IO. On manual mirrors, install the knob and set
screw.
11. Install the delta cover.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. If electric, cycle the mirror several times to
make sure that it works properly.
# See Figure 11
REPLACEMENT
1990-92 Mirage
b
See Figure 10
*The mast may be replaced separately by
simply unscrewing it from the base. The fol-
1. center panel and glove box
2 scuff plate
3 cowl 51ae wm
4 Washer duct
7 CaMeband
8 cap
9 Anrsnna mast
10 Antenna base “ourmng ““f
11 Antennz.base
%i%Qol
Fig. 10 Antenna mounting-1990-92 Mi-
rage lowing procedure is for replacing the base
and cable as a unit.
1 I Raise and safely support the vehicle securely
on jackstands.
2. Remove the passenger side front wheel.
3. Remove the splash shield inside the passen-
ger side front wheel arch.
4. Remove the center panel {for radio access)
and remove the glove box.
5. Remove the right side sill plate and remove
the kick panel.
6. If the car has a rear heater, remove the
shower duct under the glove box.
7. Carefully remove the PCM. For more details,
please refer to Section 4.
8. Remove the radio and disconnect the antenna
cable.
9. Release the cable from the bands and clips
holding it under the dash.
10. Unscrew the mast from the antenna base.
II. Remove the upper base mounting nut (at the
fender) and disconnect the lower bolt holding the
mast. Remove the mast and carefully remove the ca-
ble.
12. Install the new unit, tightening both the upper
nut and lower bolt.
13. Carefully feed the cable into the car and route
it to the radio. Engage the cable in the clips and in-
stall new retaining bands.
14. Connect the antenna cable to the radio and
reinstall the radio.
15. Replace the MPI control unit. t
16. Install the heater duct, if it was removed, and
install the kick panel on the right side.
17. Install the sill plate. Install the glove box.
18. Install the center panel.
19. Reinstall the wheel arch splash shield. Install
the wheel if it was removed. Lower the car to the
ground.
1993-00 Mirage
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the antenna base retaining screws.
3. Lift the base and mast assembly up from the
roof.
4. Detach the connector for the antenna.
5. The installation is the reverse of removal.
1. Pole
2. Knee protactor
3. Air outlet center panel assembly 4. Radto and laps player
5. Cowl side trim (driver’s side)
6. Chp
7. Antenna base
6. Base
931 !iogo2 Fig. 11 Antenna mounting-1993-00 Mi-
rage
Page 392 of 408

II-10 TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Transmission grinds going into forward gears while driving
a. Check the clutch release system. On clutches with a mechanical or cable linkage,
check the adjustment. Adjust the clutch pedal to have 1 inch (25mm) of free-play at
the pedal.
b. If the clutch release system is hydraulically operated, check the fluid level and, if low,
top off using the recommended type and amount of fluid. ,
c. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers.
d. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve.
e. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear.
2. Transmission jumps out of gear
a. Shift shaft detent springs worn. Replace shift detent springs.
b. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve.
c. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear.
d. Crankshaft thrust bearings worn. Remove engine and crankshaft, and repair as neces-
sary.
3. Transmission difficult to shift
a. Verify the clutch adjustment and, if not properly adjusted, adjust to specification.
b. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers.
c. Pilot bearing seized. Remove transmission and replace pilot bearing.
d. Shift linkage or bushing seized. Disassemble the shift linkage, replace worn or dam-
aged bushings, lubricate and reinstall.
4. Transmission leaks fluid
a. Check the fluid level for an overfilled condition. Adjust the fluid level to specification.
b. Check for a restricted transmission vent or breather tube. Clear the blockage as neces-
sary and check the fluid level. If necessary, top off with the recommended lubricant.
c. Check for a porous casting, leaking seal or gasket. Replace defective parts and top off
the fluid level with the recommended lubricant.
1. Clutch slips on hills or during sudden acceleration
a. Check for insufficient clutch pedal free-play. Adjust clutch linkage or cable to allow
about 1 inch (25mm) of pedal free-play.
b. Clutch disc worn or severely damaged. Remove engine or transmission and replace
clutch disc.
c. Clutch pressure plate is weak. Remove engine or transmission and replace the clutch
pressure plate and clutch disc.
d. Clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel incorrectly machined. If the clutch system has
been recently replaced and rebuilt, or refurbished parts have been used, it is possible
that the machined surfaces decreased the clutch clamping force. Replace defective
parts with new replacement parts.
2. Clutch will not disengage, difficult to shift
a. Check the clutch release mechanism. Check for stretched cables, worn linkages or
failed clutch hydraulics and replace defective parts. On hydraulically operated clutch
release mechanisms, check for air in the hydraulic system and bleed as necessary.
b. Check for a broken, cracked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot. Re-
place defective parts and properly lubricate upon assembly.
c. Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to
become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Disassemble clutch
system and replace failed parts.
d. Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing. Disassemble the clutch assembly and replace
the defective parts.
e. Check for a defective clutch disc. Check for warpage or liningthicknesses larger than
original equipment.
3. Clutch is noisy when the clutch pedal is pressed
a. Check the clutch pedal stop and pedal free-play adjustment for excessive movement
and adjust as necessary.
b. Check for a worn or damaged release bearing. If the noise ceases when the pedal is re-
leased, the release bearing should be replaced.
c. Check the engine crankshaft axial play. If the crankshaft thrust bearings are worn or
damaged, the crankshaft will move when pressing the clutch pedal. The engine must
be disassembled to replace the crankshaft thrust bearings.
4. Clutch pedal extremely difficult to press
a. Check the clutch pedal pivots and linkages for binding. Clean and lubricate linkages.
b. On cable actuated clutch systems, check the cable routing and condition. Replace
kinked, frayed, damaged or corroded cables and check cable routing to avoid sharp
bends. Check the engine ground strap for poor conductivity. If the ground strap is
marginal, the engine could try to ground itself via the clutch cable, causing premature
failure. c. On mechanical linkage clutches, check the linkage for binding or misalignment. Lubri-
cate pivots or linkages and repair as necessary.
d. Check the release bearing guide tube and release fork for a lack of lubrication. Install a
smooth coating of high temperature grease to allow smooth movement of the release
bearing over the guide tube.
5. Clutch pedal remains down when pressed
a, On mechanical linkage or cable actuated clutches, check for a loose or disconnected
link.
b. On hydraulically actuated clutches, check the fluid level and check for a hydraulic leak
at the clutch slave or master cylinder, or hydraulic line. Replace failed parts and bleed
clutch hydraulic system. If no leakage is noted, the clutch master cylinder may have
failed internally. Replace the clutch master cylinder and bleed the clutch hydraulic sys-
tem.
6. clutch chatters when engaging
a. Check the engine flywheel for warpage or surface variations and replace or repair as
necessary.
b. Check for a warped clutch disc or damaged clutch damper hub. Remove the clutch
disc and replace.
c. Check for a loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and replace defective components.
NOTE: The clutch is actuated either by a mechanical linkage, cable or a
clutch hydraulic system. The mechanical linkage and cable systems may
require the clutch pedal free-play to be adjusted as the clutch disc wears. A
hydraulic clutch system automatically adjusts as the clutch wears and, with
the exception of the clutch pedal height, no adjustment is possible.
1. Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and
amount of lubricant.
b. Check the differential bearings for wear or damage. Remove the bearings, inspect the
drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace components as necessary.
2. Differential makes a howling noise
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and
amount of lubricant.
b. Check the differential drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace compo-
nents as necessary.
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven
a. Fluid level overfilled. Check and adjust transfer case fluid level.
b. Check for a restricted breather or breather tube, clear and check the fluid level and top
off as needed.
c. Check seal condition and replace worn, damaged, or defective seals. Check the fluid
level and top off as necessary.
2. Makes excessive noise while driving
a. Check the fluid for the correct type of lubricant. Drain and refill using the recom-
mended type and amount of lubricant.
b. Check the fluid level. Top off the fluid using the recommended type and amount of lu-
bricant.
c. If the fluid level and type of lubricant meet specifications, check for internal wear or
damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for worn, damaged, or defec-
tive components.
3. Jumps out of gear
a. Stop vehicle and make sure the unit is fully engaged.
b. Check for worn, loose or an improperly adjusted linkage. Replace and/or adjust link-
age as necessary.
c. Check for internal wear or damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for
worn, damaged, or defective components.
Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Clunking noise from center of Vehicle shifting from forward to reverse
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint.
2. Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint.