transmission fluid MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

.
1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

.
l-36 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs.
(304Nm)
5. Refill the transaxle to the proper level, as
shown in the Capacities chart, with the appropriate
fluid. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil
filler hole. I
6. When the oil reaches the orooer level, install
the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm).
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
8957i565 Fig, 165 Oil, when at the proper level, will
reach the lower edge of tC=+ frfr*r u*rn -non-
ing Mitsubishi recommends the use of Mercon@auto-
matic transmission fluid.
LEVELCHECK
Fig. 170 The fluid level is OK if it is within
the between the HOT and ADD areas on the
&&i& Do not overfill the transaxle or
-.*".."... -- .*"- problems could o ccur
1. Makesure the vehicle is oarked on a level sur-
face.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level is up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the transaxle oil is not
noticeably dirty and that it has a suitable viscosity. u See Figures 168,169, and 170
fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the ve- The transaxle dipstick is located behind the air in-
hicle at least 10 miles. let hose, towards the firewall.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transaxle should be at normal operating
temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the 5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it
horizontally, road the fluid level. The fkrid should be
between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below
the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
DRAIN & REFILL
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again
after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the
transaxle.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking
DRAIN & REFILL u See Figures 166 and 167
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level sur-
face.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transaxle fluid
dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully in-
serted.
suitable drain pan under the manual transaxle.
3. Remove the filler plug and the drain plug and
allow the oil to drain completely.
Fig. 166 The automatic transaxle dipstick is
typically located under the air cleaner inlet
Fig. 166 Use a box-end wrench to loosen
the manual transaxle drain plug . . . tube. Pull the dipstick up to remove it from
the transaxle
Fig. 169 Wipe the dipstick clean and Insert
/fluid level reading ., it mto the transaxle agam to get the correct
j The fluid should be changed according to the
schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car
is normally used in severe service, such as stop and
start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval
should be halved. If the car is driven under especially
nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where
the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32%), or in
very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or b See Figures 171 thru 177
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle
drain plug.
3. Remove the transaxle pan drain plug. Let the
fluid completely drain out of the transaxle.
4. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 22-25 ft.
lbs. (30-35 Nm).
5. If equipped, remove the drain plug on the dif-
ferential of the transaxle.
6. Install the differential drain plug and tighten ft
to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm).
7. Remove the drain pan.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the transaxle through the dipstick to the
proper level.
10. Place the gear selector lever in P and start the
engine. Run the engine at idle, engage the emergency
brake and hold the brake pedal down. Move the gear
selector lever through all transaxle ranges for approx-
imately 5 minutes.
11. Return the selector lever to P and leave the
engine running at idle.
12. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level
at normal operating temperature should read within
the crosshatched area of the fluid level dipstick.
13. If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched
area, adjust the level by adding fluid in small incre-
ments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
PAN &FILTER SERVICE
b See Figures 178 thru 184

1-42 GENERAL~INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 206 The fluid level should be between
llow,be*“retoch~ckiebrake~ . the MAX and MIN hnes if the fhud level IS
93151p31 Fig. 209 If the master cylinder capgasket
is swelled like such, it can be a sign of con-
tamination. If the gasket is swelled . . . Fig. 207 Wipe the master cylinder reservoir
clean before opening the cap to ensure that
no contamination enters the brake fluid
Fig. 210 . . .
make sure to push the gasket
back to the normal position
93151p29 I Fig. 208 Unscrew the master cylinder cap
and remove it from the reservoir
Fig. 211 Carefully pour approved brake fluid
from a fresh, sealed container directly into
the reservoir
2. Inspect the fluid in the reservoir, making sure
fluid is between the MAX and the MIN marks.
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
When adding or changing the fluid in the systems,
use a quality brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 speci-
fications from an sealed container. Never reuse old
brake fluid.
LEVEL CHECK
b See Figures 212, 213, and 214
1. Wipe the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap
and the surrounding area clean with a shop towel. 3. If required, remove the clut ch master cylinder
reservoir lid. then add fresh fluid I FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
mark on the’reservoir. to fill to the top full
When adding or changing the power steering
fll$,“” Dexron@il ATF (Automatic Transmission
-
- .
Be careful to avoid sf Billing any brake fluid on LEVELCHECK
painted surfaces, bet
:ause the paint coat will
become discolored or damaged.
b See Figures 215, 216, 217, and 218
4. Reinstall the lid onto the clutch master cylin- Like all other general maintenance items, check
der. every 3,OOfl miles (4,800 km) or once a month. In-
5. If removed, install the air cleaner assembly. spect the oil level in the reservoir by checking the po-
Fig. 212 The clutch master cylinder has
MAX (A) and MIN (B) fill lines on the reser
volr

I)
ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-65
10. Install the camshaft(s), rockers, shafts and
any other components that were removed for disas-
sembly.
GENERAL INFORMATION ways number 1. However, depending on the engine
placement, the front of the engine could either be the
flywheel or damper/pulley end. Generally the front of
the engine faces the front of the vehicle. Use a num-
ber punch or scribe and also mark the main bearing
caps from front to rear with the front most cap being
number 1 (if there are five caps, mark them 1 through
5, front to rear).
A thorough overhaul or rebuild of an engine block
would include replacing the pistons, rings, bearings,
timing belt/chain assembly and oil pump. For OHV
engines also include a new camshaft and lifters. The
block would then have the cylinders bored and honed
oversize (or if using removable cylinder sleeves, new
sleeves installed) and the crankshaft would be cut
undersize to provide new wearing surfaces and per-
feet clearances. However, your particular engine may Take special care when pushing the connect-
ing rod up from the crankshaft because the
sharp threads of the rod bolts/studs will
score the crankshaft journal. Insure that spe-
cial plastic caps are installed over them, or
cut two pieces of rubber hose to do the
same.
Again, rotate the engine, this time to position the
number one cylinder bore (head surface) up. Turn the
crankshaft until the number one piston is at the bot-
tom of its travel, this should allow the maximum ac-
cess to its connecting rod. Remove the number one
connecting rods fasteners and cap and place two
lengths of rubber hose over the rod bolts/studs to
protect the crankshaft from damage. Using a sturdy
wooden dowel and a hammer, push the connecting
rod up about 1 in. (25mm) from the crankshaft and
remove the upper bearing insert. Continue pushing
or tapping the connecting rod up until the piston
rings are out of the cylinder bore. Remove the piston
and rod by hand, put the upper half of the bearing in-
sert back into the rod, install the cap with its bearing
insert installed, and hand-tighten the cap fasteners. If
the parts are kept in order in this manner, they will
not get lost and you will be able to tell which bear-
ings came form what cylinder if any problems are
discovered and diagnosis is necessary. Remove all
the other piston assemblies in the same manner. On
V-style engines, remove all of the pistons from one
bank, then reposition the engine with the other cylin-
der bank head surface up, and remove that banks nis-
prevent the assemblies from being removed,
necessitating its removal. Fig. 260 Carefully tap the piston out of the
bore using a wooden dowel
There are several different types of ridge reamers
on the market, none of which are inexpensive, Unless
.3 “me.+ ,-ins, rdnnn;nn mh~lil.-linn ;I nn+:n:nnL.* l.^W
a ylwx “Gal “I cllylllc Ir;““ll”llly 13 dllLILlpxC”, ““I- row or rent a reamer.
1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the
bottom of its travel.
2. Cover the head of the piston with a rag.
3. Follow the tool manufacturers instructions and housing or transmission mounting surface. You must
1 as many
II of the
~1SA~E~BLY
b See Figures 259 and 260
The engine disassembly instructions following as-
sume that you have the engine mounted on an engine
stand. If not, it is easiest to disassemble the engine
on a bench or the floor with it resting on the bell be able to access the connecting rod fasteners and
turn the crankshaft during disassembly. Also, all en-
gine covers (timing, front, side, oil pan, whatever)
should
are sei2
nletelv have already been removed. Engines which
,ed or locked up may not be able to be com-
r’-‘-‘, disassembled, and a core (salvage yard) en-
gine sh ould be purchased.
If no
t done during the cylinder head removal, re-
move the timing chain/belt and/or gear/sprocket as-
sembly. Remove the oil pick-up and pump assembly
and, if necessary, the pump drive. If equipped, re-
move any balance or auxiliary shafts. If necessary, re-
move the cylinder ridge from the top of the bore. See
the cylinder ridge removal procedure earlier in this
section.
Rotate the engine over so that the crankshaft is ex-
posed. Use a number punch or scribe and mark each
connecting rod with its respective cylinder number.
The cylinder closest to the front of the engine is al- cut away the ridge, exercising extreme care to avoid
~ ioo deepfy.
4. Remove the ridge reamer, the rag and
armings as possible. Continue until a
biter ridges have been removed. ton assemblies.
The only remaining component in the engine
block should now be the crankshaft. Loosen the main
bearing caps evenly until the fasteners can be turned
by hand, then remove them and the caps. Remove the
crankshaft from the engine block. Thoroughly clean
all of the components.
INSPECTION
Now that the engine block and all of its compo-
nents are clean, it’s time to inspect them for wear
and/or damage. To accurately inspect them, you will
need some specialized tools:
l Two or three separate micrometers to measure
the prstons and crankshaft journals
l A dial indicator l Telescoping gauges for the cylinder bores l A rod alignment fixture to check for bent con-
netting rods
If you do not have access to the proper tools,
you may want to bring the components to a shop
that does.
Generally, you shouldn’t expect cracks in the en-
gine block or its components unless it was known to
leak, consume or mix engine fluids, it was severely
overheated, or there was evidence of bad bearings
and/or crankshaft damage. A visual inspection

DRIVEABILITYAND EMISSIONSCONTROL-S 4-31
PO466 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
PO469 Purqe Flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
PO470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
PO471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Perfor-
mance
PO472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
PO473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Hiah
PO474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor lnirmittent
PO475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunc-
tion
PO476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
Range/Performance
PO477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
PO476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
PO479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermit-
tent
PO460 Cooling Fan no 1 Control Circuit Mal-
function
PO461 Cooling Fan no. 2 Control Circuit Mal-
function
PO462 Cooling Fan no. 3 Control Circuit Mal-
function
PO463 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunc-
tion
PO464 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
PO465 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Mal-
function
PO500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
PO501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
PO502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
PO503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Er-
ratic/High
PO505 Idle Control System Malfunction
PO506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Ex-
pected
PO507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Ex-
pected
PO510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunc-
tion
PO520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit
Malfunction
PO521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch
Range/Performance
PO522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low
Voltage
PO523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High
Voltage
PO530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
Malfunction
PO531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance
PO532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
Low Input
PO533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit
High Input
PO534 A/C Refrigerant Charge Loss
PO550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit
Malfunction
PO551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance
PO552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit
Low Input
PO553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit
High Input
PO554 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circiit
Intermittent
PO560 System Voltage Malfunction
PO561 System Voltage Unstable
PO562 System Voltage Low
PO563 Svstem Voltaoe Hlah
PO565 Ciuise Control On%ignal Malfunction
PO566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction PO567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunc-
tion
PO566 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
PO569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
PO570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
PO571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit
Malfunction
PO572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit
Low
PO573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit
High
P0574Through PO560 Reserved for Cruise
Codes
PO600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
PO601 Internal Control Module Memory Check
Sum Error
PO602 Control Module Programming Error
PO603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Mem-
ory (KAM) Error
PO604 Internal Control Module Random Access
Memory (RAM) Error
PO605 Internal Control Module Read Only Mem-
ory (ROM) Error
PO606 PCM Processor Fault
PO606 Control Module VSS Output “A” Malfunc-
tion
PO609 Control Module VSS Output “6” Malfunc-
tion
PO620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
PO621 Generator Lamp “L” Control Circuit Mal-
function
PO622 Generator Field “F” Control Circuit Mal-
function
PO650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control
Circuit Malfunctron
PO654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
PO655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit
Malfunction
PO656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction
PO700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
PO701 Transmission Control System Range/Per-
formance
PO702 Transmission Control System Electrical
PO703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit
Malfunction
PO704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
PO705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Mal-
function (PRNDL Input)
PO706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance
PO707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low
Input
PO706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High
Input
PO709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Inter-
mittent
PO710 Transmission FluId Temperature Sensor
Circuit Malfunction
PO711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor
Circuit Range/Performance
PO712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor
Circuit Low Input
PO713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor
Circuit High Input
PO714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor
Circuit Intermittent
PO715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Mal-
function
PO716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance
PO717 InpWurbine Speed Sensor Circuit No
Signal PO716 Inputflurbine Speed Sensor Circuit Inter-
mittent
PO719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit
Low
PO720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
PO721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Per-
formance
PO722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
PO723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
PO724 Toraue Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit
High
PO725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
PO726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Perfor-
PO727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
PO726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
PO730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
PO731 Gear no. 1 Incorrect Ratio
PO732 Gear no. 2 Incorrect Ratio
PO733 Gear no. 3 Incorrect Ratio
PO734 Gear no 4 Incorrect Ratio
PO735 Gear no. 5 Incorrect Ratio
PO736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
PO740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunc-
tion
PO741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Perfor-
mance or Stuck Off
PO742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
PO743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
PO744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermit-
tent
PO745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
PO746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or
Stuck Off
PO747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
PO746 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
PO749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
PO750 Shift Solenoid “A” Malfunction
PO751 Shift Solenoid “A” Performance or Stuck
Off
PO752 Shift Solenoid “A” Stuck On
PO753 Shift Solenoid “A” Electrical
PO754 Shift Solenoid “A” Intermittent
PO755 Shift Solenoid “8 Malfunction
PO756 Shift Solenoid “B” Performance or Stuck
Oft
PO757 Shift Solenoid “B” Stuck On
PO756 Shift Solenoid “6” Electrical
PO759 Shift Solenoid “8” Intermittent
PO760 Shift Solenoid “C” Malfunction
PO761 Shift Solenoid “C” Performance Or Stuck
Oft
PO762 Shift Solenoid “C” Stuck On
PO763 Shift Solenoid “C” Electrical
PO764 Shift Solenoid “C” Intermittent
PO765 Shift Solenoid “D” Malfunction
PO766 Shift Solenoid “D” Performance Or Stuck
Oft
PO767 Shift Solenoid “D” Stuck On
PO766 Shift Solenoid “D” Electrical
PO769 Shift Solenoid “D” Intermittent
PO770 Shift Solenoid “E” Malfunction
PO771 Shift Solenoid “E” Performance Or Stuck
Off
PO772 Shift Solenoid “E” Stuck On
PO773 Shift Solenoid “E” Electrical
PO774 Shift Solenoid “E” Intermittent
PO760 Shift Malfunction
PO761 l-2 Shift Malfunction
PO762 2-3 Shift Malfunction
PO763 3-4 Shift Malfunction
PO764 4-5 Shift Malfunction

7-10 DRIVETRAIN
The automatic transaxle allows engine torque and
power to be transmitted to the front wheels within a
narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow
the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of
power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it
at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and it does
this job without driver assistance). The transaxle uses
a light fluid as the medium for the transmission of
power. This fluid also works in ths operation of vari-
ous hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant. Be-
cause the transaxle fluid performs all of these func-
tions, trouble within the unit can easily travel from one
part to another For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual operating principles of the
transaxle, a very sound understanding of the basic
principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Pan removal, fluid and filter
in Section 1 of this manual changes are covered
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
# See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Mount and position new switch. Do not tighten
the bolts until the switch is adjusted.
5. Connect selector cable and adjust switch.
6. After installation and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also check
that the reverse lights operate only in the R selectlon.
1994-00 Galant and 1998-00 Mirage
e See Figure 44
93157pm Fig. 44 Typically, the park/neutral position
switch is located on the top of the transaxle
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut attaching the shift control ca-
ble from the transaxle manual shaft lever. Position
the control cable out of the way.
3. Place the manual shaft lever in the Neutral
position, remove the nut and the manual shaft lever.
4. Detach the park/neutral switch electrical con-
nector.
5. Remove the park/neutral switch mounting
bolts and remove the switch from the transaxle man-
ual shaft.
To install: 6. Install the park/neutral switch to the transaxle
manual shaft and install the switch mounting bolts
Do not tighten the mounting bolts unh the switch is
adjusted.
7. Install the manual shaft lever to the park/neu-
tral switch with the nut. Make sure that the shaft lever
is in the Neutral position.
8. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
turn the switch body until the hole in the body of the
switch aligns with the hole in the manual shaft lever.
Insert a drill bit or equivalent into the holes. Tighten
the switch mounting bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
9. Attach the electrical connector.
10. Install the control cable to the manual shaft
lever with the nut. Adjust the cable so that there is no
slack in the cable and that the selector lever moves
smoothly
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable Check
for proper starting and proper reverse light operatron.
Diamante
ti See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
battery cable is disconnected to prevent pos-
sible deployment of the air bag.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever.
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Install the lever, tighten the bolts only hand
tight.
5. Rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 inch (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 inch
(5mm) holes are aligned.
6. Tighten the mounting bolts to 7-8 ft. Ibs.
(10-12 Nm).
7. Connect the selector cable to the lever.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. After installahon and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also
check that the reverse lights operate only in the R se- lection.
ADJUSTMENT
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and lo-
cate the neutral safety switch on the top of the
transaxle.
*Apply parking brake and chock wheels be-
fore placing transaxle into the N position
2. At the transmission, loosen the shift cable ad-
justment nut. Inside the vehicle place the gearshift
selector lever in N
3. Place the manual shift control lever in N.
4. Loosen neutral safety switch mounhng screws
and rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 in. (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 in.
(5mm) holes are aligned.
5. Tighten switch body mounting bolts to 7-8 ft.
Ibs. (lo-12 Nm).
6. At the shift cable adjusting nut, gently pull ca-
ble to remove any slack. Tighten locknut to 8 ft. Ibs.
(12 Nm)
7. Verify that the switch lever moves to positions
corresponding to each position of the selector lever.
Connect the negative battery terminal.
8. Make sure the engine only starts in the
P and
N positions. Also make sure the reverse lights oper-
ate only in
R selection.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Diamante
) See Figures 45, 46, 47, and 48
1. Properly disarm the SRS system (air bag).
Refer to Section 6.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the engine side cover and undercov-
ers.
5. Drain the transaxle assembly into a suitable
container.
6. If equipped, remove the front catalytic con-
verter.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe, main muffler and
catalytic converter.
8. Disconnect the tie rod end and ball joint from
the steering knuckle.
9. Unbolt the support bearing for the left side
halfshaft.
10. Remove the halfshafts by inserting a prybar
between the transaxle case and the driveshaft and
prying the shaft from the transaxle.
11. Remove the air cleaner assembly and adjoin-
ing duct work.
12. Detach the engine harness connection.
13. If the vehicle is equipped with Active Elec-
tronlc Controlled Suspension (Active-ECS), remove
the compressor assembly from the transaxle and sus-
pend with wire. Do not allow the compressor to hang
from the air hose.
14. If equipped, remove the roll stopper stay
bracket.
15. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transaxle.
16. Remove the clip that secures the shifter and
disconnect the shifter control cable from the
transaxle.
17. Disconnect and plug the oil cooler hoses
from the transaxle.
18. Detach the following:

.
7-12 DRIVETRAIN
26-33Nm
19 - 24 itlbs.
45 - 52 Nm
69 Nm
51 ftlbs.

66 Nm
65 ftlbs.
52 Nm
36 fl.lbs.
:ig.
the prybar. Do not insert the prybar so far the oil seal
in the case is damaged. Tie the halfshafts aside.
14. On AWD vehicles, disconnect the exhaust
pipe and remove the transfer case.
15. Remove the lower bellhousing cover and re-
move the special bolts holding the flexplate to the
torque converter. To remove, turn the engine crank-
shaft with a box wrench and bring the bolts into a po-
sition appropriate for removal, one at a time. After re-
moving the bolts, push the torque converter toward
the transaxle so it doesn’t stay on the engine allowing
oil to pour out the converter hub or cause damage to
the converter,
16. Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts
and remove the transaxle assembly. To install: 17. After the torque converter has been mounted
on the transaxle, install the transaxle assembly on the
engine. Tighten the driveplate bolts to 34-38 ft. Ibs.
(4653 Nm). Tighten the transaxle-to-engine bolts to
35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm). Install the bellhousing cover.
18. On AWD vehicles, install the transfer case
and frame pieces. Connect the exhaust pipe using a
new gasket.
19. Replace the circlips and install the halfshafts
to the transaxle.
20. Install the tie rods and ball joint to the steer-
ing arm.
21. Install the transaxle mounting bracket.
22. install the under guard.
23. Install the starter.
24. Connect the speedometer cable and oil cooler
lines.
25 Connect the solenoid, neutral safety switch
(inhibitor switch), the pulse generator kickdown
servo switch and oil temperature sensor.
26. Install the shift control cable.
27. Install the air hose, intercooler and air cleaner
assembly.
If equipped with an active ECS, connect the
mante with a F4A33 automatic transaxle
30 Refill with Dexron II, Mopar ATF Plus type
7176, Mitsubishi Plus ATF or equivalent, automatic
transaxle fluid. If vehicle is AWD check and fill the
transfer case.
31. Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 min-
utes. Apply parkrng brake and move selector through
each gear posrtion, ending in N. Recheck fluid level
and add if necessary. Fluid level should be between
the marks in the HOT range.
1994-90 MODELS
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner and intake hoses.
3. Drain the transaxle into a suitable waste con-
tainer.
4. Remove the nut securing the shifter lever to
the transaxle. Remove the cable retaining clip and re-
move the cable from the transaxle.
5. Remove the shifter cable mounting bracket,
6. Tag and detach the electrical connectors for
the speedometer, solenoid, neutral safety switch (in-
hibitor switch), the pulse generator, kickdown servo
switch, and the oil temperature sensor.
7. Tag and disconnect the oil cooler lines at the
transaxle.
8. Remove the bolt securing the fluid dipstick
tube to the transaxle. Remove the dipstrck and tube
from the transaxle.
9. Remove the starter motor and position it
aside.
10. Using special tool MZ203827 or equivalent,
support the engine assembly.
11. Remove the rear roll stopper mounting
bracket.
12. Remove the transaxle mount bracket.
13. Remove the upper transaxle mounting bolts.
14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
15. Remove the front wheel assemblies.
16. Remove the right hand undercover.
17. Remove and discard the cotter pin, then dis-
connect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle,
18. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the
damper fork.
19. Disconnect the damper fork from the lateral
lower control arm.
20. Disconnect the lateral lower arm, and the
compression arm lower ball joints from the steering
knuckle.
21. Pry the halfshafts from the transaxle, and se-
cure aside.
22. Remove the cover from the transaxle bell-
housing.
23. Remove the engine front roll stopper
through-bolt.
24. Remove the crossmember and the triangular
right hand stay.
25. Remove the bolts holding the flexplate to the
torque converter with a box wrench Rotate the engine
to bring the bolts into a position appropriate for re-
moval, one at a time. After removing the bolts, push
the torque converter toward the transaxle. This will
prevent the converter from remaining intact with the
engine, possibly damaging the converter,
26. Support the transaxle, using a transmission
jack, and remove the transaxle lower coupling bolt.
*The coupling bolt threads from the engine
side, into the transaxle, and is located just
above the halfshafl opening.

I TROUBLESHOOTING II-3
Condition Section/hem Number
2-A, 1
2-A, 2
2-A, 3 Transmission shifts erratically
Transmission will not engage
Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
Transmission grinds going into forward gears while driving
Transmission jumps out of gear
Transmission difficult to shift
Transmission leaks fluid 2-B, 1 2-C, 2
2-B, 2
2-B, 3 2-C, 2
2-B, 4
2-C,l
2-c,2
2-c,3
2-c,4
2-c,5
2-C,6 Clutch slips on hills or during sudden acceleration
Clutch will not disengage, difficult to shift
Clutch is noisy when the clutch pedal is pressed
Clutch pedal extremely difficult to press
Clutch pedal remains down when pressed
Clutch chatters when engaging
2-D, 1
2-D, 2 Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise
Differential makes a howling noise
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven
Makes excessive noise while driving
Jumps out of gear 2-E, 1
2-E, 2
2-E, 3
Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Clunking noise from center of vehicle shifting from forward to reverse
,Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating 2-F, l
2-F,2
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles , Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise
Front or Rear wheel vibrates with increased speed 2-G,l
2-G,2
Front Wheel Drive Vehicles Front wheel makes a clicking noise
Rear wheel makes a clicking noise 2-G,3
2-G,4
Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles Front or rear wheel makes a clicking
Rear wheel shudders or vibrates noise 2-G,5
2-G,6
2-H, 1; 2-C, 1; 3-A, 9
2-H, 2; 2-C, 1; 3-A, 9 Burning odor from center of vehicle when accelerating
Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
Brakes pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed 3-A-l
Brakes make a squealing noise CI
3-A, 2
Brakes make a grinding noise
Vehicle pulls to one side during.braking
Brake pedal feels spongy or has excessive brake pedal travel
Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or fade 3-A, 3
3-A, 4
3-A, 5
3-A, 6

TROUBLESHOOiNG 11-7
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine runs poor/y, hesiiates
a. Check the engine ignition system operation and adjust if possible, or replace defective
parts.
b. Check for restricted fuel injectors and replace as necessary.
c. Check the fuel pump output and delivery. Inspect fuel lines for restrictions. If the fuel
pump pressure is below specification, replace the fuel pump.
d. Check the operation of the engine management system and repair as necessary.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
b. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
c. Check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management systems. Check the
sensor operation and wiring. Check for low fuel pump pressure and repair or replace
components as necessary.
d. Check the throttle linkage adjustments. Check to make sure the linkage is fully open-
ing the throttle. Replace any worn or defective bushings or linkages.
e. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
f. Check for a loose or defective knock sensor. A loose, improperly torqued or defective
knock sensor will decrease spark advance and reduce power. Replace defective knock
sensors and install using the recommended torque specification.
g. Check for engine mechanical conditions such as low compression, worn piston rings,
worn valves, worn camshafts and related parts. An engine which has severe mechani-
cal wear, or has suffered internal mechanical damage must be rebuilt or replaced to re-
store lost power.
h. Check the engine oil level for being overfilled. Adjust the engine’s oil level, or change
the engine oil and filter, and top off to the correct level.
i. Check for an intake manifold or vacuum hose leak. Replace leaking gaskets or worn
vacuum hoses.
j. Check for dragging brakes and replace or repair as necessary.
k. Check tire air pressure and tire wear. Adjust the pressure to the recommended set-
tings. Check the tire wear for possible alignment problems causing increased rolling
resistance, decreased acceleration and increased fuel usage.
I. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
3. Poor fuel economy
a. Inspect the air filter and check for any air restrictions going into the air filter housing.
Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated.
b. Check the engine for tune-up and related adjustments. Replace worn ignition parts,
check the engine ignition timing and fuel mixture, and set to specifications if possible.
c. Check the tire size, tire wear, alignment and tire pressure. Large tires create more
rolling resistance, smaller tires require more engine speed to maintain a vehicle’s road
speed. Excessive tire wear can be caused by incorrect tire pressure, incorrect wheel
alignment or a suspension problem. All of these conditions create increased rolling
resistance, causing the engine to work harder to accelerate and maintain a vehicle’s
speed.
d. Inspect the brakes for binding or excessive drag. A sticking brake caliper, overly ad-
justed brake shoe, broken brake shoe return spring, or binding parking brake cable or
linkage can create a significant drag, brake wear and loss of fuel economy. Check the
brake system operation and repair as necessary.
4. Engine runs on (diesels) when turned off
a. Check for idle speed set too high and readjust to specification.
b. Check the operation of the idle control valve, and replace if defective.
c. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings.
Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
d. Check for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hose
and replace defective
gaskets or hoses.
e. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
f. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
g. Check the engine operating temperature for overheating and repair as necessary. 5. Engine knocks and pinfls during heavy accele/ation, and on steep hills
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
b. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings. Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
c. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
d. Check the spark plugs for the correct type, electrode gap and heat range. Replace worn
or damaged spark plugs. For severe or continuous high speed use, install a spark plug
that is one heat range colder.
e. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
f. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
6. Engine atxelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
a. On manual transmission vehicles, check for causes of a slipping clutch. Refer to the
clutch troubleshooting section for additional information.
b. On automatic transmission vehicles, check for a slipping transmission” Check the
transmission fluid level and condition. If the fluid level is too high, adjust to the cor-
rect level. If the fluid level is low, top off using the recommended fluid type. If the fluid
exhibits a burning odor, the transmission has been slipping internally. Changing the
fluid and filter may help temporarily, however in this situation a transmission may re-
quire overhauling to ensure long-term reliability.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine runs pOOr!y a. Check the injection pump timing and adjust to specification.
b. Check for air in the fuel lines or leaks, and bleed the air from the fuel system.
c. Check the fuel filter, fuel feed and return lines for a restriction and repair as necessary.
d. Check the fuel for contamination, drain and flush the fuel tank and replenish with fresh
fuel.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Inspect the air intake system and air filter for restrictions and, if necessary, replace the
air filter.
b. Verify the injection pump timing and reset if out of specification.
c. Check the exhaust for an internal restriction and replace failed parts.
d. Check for a restricted fuel filter and, if restricted, replace the filter.
e. Inspect the fuel filler cap vent. When removing the filler cap, listen for excessive hiss-
ing noises indicating a blockage in the fuel filler cap vents, If the filler cap vents are
blocked, replace the cap.
f. Check the fuel system for restrictions and repair as necessary.
g. Check for low engine compression and inspect for external leakage at the glow plugs
or nozzles. If no external leakage is noted, repair or replace the engine.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS When troubleshooting an engine running or performance condition, the mechanical
condition of the engine should be determined before lengthy troubleshooting procedures
are performed.
The engine fuel management systems in fuel injected vehicles rely on electronic sen-
sors to provide information to the engine control unit for precise fuel metering. Unlike
carburetors, which use the incoming air speed to draw fuel through the fuel metering jets
in order to provide a proper fuel-to-air ratio, a fuel injection system provides a specific
amount of fuel which is introduced by the fuel injectors into the intake manifold or intake
port, based on the information provided by electronic sensors.
The sensors monitor the engine’s operating temperature, ambient temperature and the
amount of air entering the engine, engine speed and throttle position to provide informa-
tion to the engine control unit, which, in turn, operates the fuel injectors by electrical
pulses. The sensors provide information to the engine control unit using low voltage
electrical signals. As a result, an unplugged sensor or a poor electrical contact could
cause a poor running condition similar to a failed sensor.
When troubleshooting a fuel related engine condition on fuel injected vehicles, care-
fully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make sure
the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If neces-
sary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning
agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should not be used, as they could
leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
The engine electrical system provides the necessary electrical power to operate the ve-
hicle’s electrical accessories, electronic control units and sensors. Because engine man-
agement systems are sensitive to voltage changes, an alternator which over or under-
charges could cause engine running problems or component failure. Most alternators
utilize internal voltage regulators which cannot be adjusted and must be replaced indi-
vidually or as a unit with the alternator.

11-8 TROUBLESHOOTING
Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management sys-
tem. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sen-
sors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed
and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted.
Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to
determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed
component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components,
carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make
sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If
necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of clean-
ing agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they
could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or
driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel.
b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing
or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to ad-
vance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or
replace components as needed.
c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in se-
vere operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark
plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer’s recommended specification and
replace worn or damaged spark plugs.
2. Sfarter motor grinds when used
a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace dam-
aged parts.
b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged
replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness.
3. Engine makes a screeching noise
a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and
replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy.
c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bearing
may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump.
4. Engine makes a growling noise
a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if
loose or excessively noisy.
5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise
a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine oil and top off
or replace the engine oil and filter.
b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed
components.
c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a re-
stricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve.
d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or
worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective
parts.
e. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or re-
place parts as necessary.
f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder head
to access and replace.
6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise
a. Check for a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting
bolt(s) to specification.
b. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disassem-
bly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts.
c. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also asso-
ciated with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to inspect for
damaged and needed replacement parts,
7. Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven ’ a. Check the fuel gauge level. If the fuel gauge registers full, it is possible that the odor is
caused by being filled beyond capacity, or some spillage occurred during refueling.
The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canis-
ter to purge.
b. Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if
loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap.
c. Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or
leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. d. Check the vehicle’s fuel economy. If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed
component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure, the
catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the
check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify
the condition by testing the vehicle’s emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and
test and replace failed components as necessary.
5. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven
a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A
lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic con-
verter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine
warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary.
b. Check the vehicle’s alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging,
the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin
to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has oc-
curred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water
mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service,
and load test the battery, and replace if necessary.
9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven
a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp,
weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as
needed.
b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or
under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary.
c. Check the engine’s exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence
of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combus-
tion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or
cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the
inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.
19. Engine vibraies when idling
a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair or
replace as necessary.
b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as neces-
sary.
11. Engine vibrates during acceleration
a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or
repair as necessary.
b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing;
repair or adjust as necessary.
7. Battery goes dead while driving
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test. If the battery loses fluid while driving, check for an overcharg-
ing condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the alternator or voltage regula-
tor. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alternator, necessitating alternator re-
placement or overhaul.)
b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corroded cables and clean the bat-
tery terminals.
c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. If the charging system is over or
undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or both.
d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for looseness, a missing .
ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary.
e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and condition. Properly tension the
drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and replace the drive belt if worn or
cracked.
2. Battery goes dead overnight
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test.
b. Check for a voltage draw, such as a trunk light, interior light or glove box light staying
on. Check light switch position and operation, and replace if defective.
c. Check the alternator for an internally failed diode, and replace the alternator if defec-
tive.
1. Engine overheats
a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture.
b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.