headlight MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998 Owner's Manual

Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article









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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes









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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage









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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground
connections for
tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch as
necessary









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Starter Cranks Battery weak or Charge or replace
Engine Slowly defective battery as necessary

Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch
Open circuit between Check and repair wires
starter switch ignition and connections as
terminal on starter relay necessary
Starter relay or starter See Testing in STARTER
defective article
Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article









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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes









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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage









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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground

The noid light is an excellent "quick and dirty" tool. It can
usually be hooked to a fuel injector harness fast and the flashing
light is easy to understand. It is a dependable way to identify a no-
pulse situation.
However, a noid light can be very deceptive in two cases:
* If the wrong one is used for the circuit being tested.
Beware: Just because a connector on a noid light fits the
harness does not mean it is the right one.
* If an injector driver is weak or a minor voltage drop is
present.
Use the Right Noid Light
In the following text we will look at what can happen if the
wrong noid light is used, why there are different types of noid lights
(besides differences with connectors), how to identify the types of
noid lights, and how to know the right type to use.
First, let's discuss what can happen if the incorrect type of
noid light is used. You might see:
* A dimly flashing light when it should be normal.
* A normal flashing light when it should be dim.
A noid light will flash dim if used on a lower voltage
circuit than it was designed for. A normally operating circuit would
appear underpowered, which could be misinterpreted as the cause of a
fuel starvation problem.
Here are the two circuit types that could cause this problem:
* Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately
on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the
available voltage to an injector in order to limit the
current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a
noid light designed for full voltage.
* Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak
and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick
burst of voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back
significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration.
If a noid light was designed for the other type of driver
(voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim
because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow for the
entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes
normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive
noid light is used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was
weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit\
with an actual problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to
consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a
partial driver failure or a minor voltage drop in the injector
circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid
light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of
corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the
starter motor will not operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on
the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they
light normally and are fully bright. This is the same idea as noid
light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the
headlights ("noid light"), but not the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using
the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding

REAR WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Diamante, Galant and Mirage are not equipped with rear
wipers.
Ensure wiper motor is in park position. Position wiper arm
and blade assembly so tip of blade is specified distance from edge of
window. See REAR WIPER ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS table.
REAR WIPER ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS TABLE









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Model In. (mm)
Eclipse .............................. 4.98-5.38 (125-135)
Montero & Montero Sport ................ 2.56-2.95 (65-75)
3000GT ............................................... ( 1)
( 1) - Position blade tip along ceramic edge of window.









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COMPONENT TESTS
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: For headlight washer switch testing on Montero,
see STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES article.
WASHER MOTOR TEST (FRONT & REAR)
1) Ensure washer reservoir fluid is at proper level. Turn
ignition switch to ON position. Press washer button on wiper/washer
switch. If fluid does not spray on windshield, turn ignition off.
Check for plugged washer hoses from washer reservoir to windshield
nozzle. Repair as necessary.
2) If washer hoses are not plugged, disconnect washer motor
electrical connector. Check for poor connection or connector damage.
Repair as necessary. If connector is okay, connect battery power to
washer motor terminals. Washer motor should operate. Replace motor as
necessary.
FRONT WIPER MOTOR TEST
Checking Wiper Motor Operation
Disconnect wiring connector from wiper motor. Connect battery
voltage to wiper motor connector as shown, and ensure wiper motor
operates at low and high speeds. See Fig. 1 or 2. Replace motor as
necessary.
Checking Automatic Stop
1) Operate wiper motor at low speed. See Fig. 1 or 2.
Disconnect battery voltage during operation to stop motor.
2) Using a jumper wire, connect terminals as shown. See
Fig. 1 or 2. Connect 12 volts to indicated terminal, and ground wiper
motor bracket. Ensure wiper arm is correctly parked. Replace motor as
necessary.

Fig. 21: Wiper/Washer System Wiring Diagram (Montero - Headlight
Washers)