check engine light NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 14 of 238
14
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
SPECIFICATIONS
CAPACITY AND GRADE
Engine:
Lubricant........................................... 15W-50 SF
Sump capacity including filter ........... 3.3 liters
Cooling system capacity............................ 6.0 liters
Manual transaxle:
Lubricant....................................... 80W-90 GL-4
Capacity ............................................... 2.7 liters
Automatic transaxle:
Lubricant.............................................. Dexron II
Capacity ............................................... 6.0 liters
Power steering:
Lubricant.............................................. Dexron II
Capacity ............................................... 1.0 liters
Manual steering lubricant ........ Castrol EPLl grease
Brake fluid type ................................................ Dot 4
1. HOW TO GREASE AND OIL CHANGE
(1) Run the front of the vehicle onto car ramps
and stop the engine. Chock the front wheels. (2) Raise the rear of the vehicle and place
chassis stands under the rear jacking points.
NOTE: It is best if the vehicle is kept as level
as possible to avoi d false readings when
checking the lubricant levels.
(3) Clean around the engine sump drain plug.
(4) Place a drain tin under the engine sump,
remove the engine sump drain plug and allow the
engine sump to completely drain.
NOTE: It is best to drain the engine sump
with the oil at operating temperature. How-
ever, if the oil is hot take care to avoid
scalding.
(5) Check that the sealing gasket on the sump
plug is in a serviceable condition. (6) When the engine sump has completely
drained, install and firmly tighten the sump drain plug.
Wipe around the plug after installation. (7) Place the drain tin under the oil filler,
remove the oil filter using a filter removal tool and
allow the residual engine oil to drain. Smear the
scaling ring of the new filter with engine oil and
lighten the filter by hand as per the instructions
supplied with the new filter.
NOTE: Before installing the new filter, en-
sure that the sealing gasket from the old
filter has not adhered to the filter sealing
surface on the engine.
(8) Remove the level checking plug from the
Location of the engine sump drain plug.
Removing the engine oil filter using a filter removal tool.
Page 15 of 238
Lubrication and Maintenance 15
Location of the manual transaxle level plug.
manual transaxle. Using a finger, check that the oil is
level with the bottom of the plug hole. Overfilled units
should be drained to the correct level.
If the oil level is low, use an oil gun to fill the
transaxle to the correct level.
When satisfied that the oil level is correct, install
the plug and tighten firmly. Wipe around the plug
after installation.
NOTE: On automatic transaxle vehicles,
refer to the Automatic Transaxle section for
the checking and topping up procedure.
Location of the manual transaxle drain plug.
(9) Using a funnel, fill the engine with the
specified amount and grade of engine oil. start the
engine and run it for a few minutes. Ensure that the
oil light goes out. Stop the engine, wait for a few
minutes and check the engine oil on the dipstick. If
necessary add oil to bring the level to the full mark on
the dipstick.
NOTE: To prevent overfilling the engine
initially, it is good policy not to pour all the
Underbonnet view of the 1.8 liter engine. Automatic transaxle model.
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE DIPSTICK
r
Page 21 of 238
WHEELS AND TYRES
SPECIFICATIONS
TYRES PRESSURES
Front:
Normal load ............................................ 200 kPa
Heavy load or high speed ......................230 kPa
Rear:
Normal load............................................ 180 kPa
Heavy load or high speed ...................... 210 kPa
NOTE: The above pressures are measured
cold and are meant as a guide only. Always
refer to the tire placard positioned on the
inside of the glove compartment lid and the
tire manufacturers recommendations first.
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Wheel nut torque .............................................98 Nm
1. HOW TO CHANGE A ROAD WHEEL
(1) Ensure that the vehicle is on level firm
ground and clear of any passing traffic. (2) If necessary, switch on the hazard
flashers.
(3) Switch off the engine a nd place the transaxle
in the (P) Park position on automatic transaxle
models or in reverse gear on manual transaxle models.
(4) Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the
front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the
wheel being changed.
(5) Remove the spare wheel, tool kit and jack
located in the luggage compartment. (6) On vehicles equipped with full wheel covers,
remove the trim from the wheel. (7) Using the wheel spanner, loosen the wheel
nuts progressively in a diagonal sequence half a turn.
(8) Position the jack und er the jacking point
closest to the wheel being removed and raise the jack
until the head of the jack contacts the jacking point.
(9) Raise the vehicle slightly and check that the
jack is stable and vertical.
Underbody view showing the jacking and supporting
points. O indicates the jacking points and X indicates
the supporting points.
Chock the front and rear of the wheel diagonally
opposite the wheel being changed. View of the jack correctly installed to the rear jacking
point.
Page 27 of 238
Engine Tune-up 27
move the alternator or power steering pump as
required until the drive belt concerned has the
specified deflection.
On models with air conditioning, loosen the nut
in the centre of the idler pulley and turn the adjusting
bolt until the drive belt has the specified deflection.
(3) Tighten the alternator or power steering
pump bolts securely and check the belt tension.
On models with air conditioning, tighten the idler
pulley nut securely.
TO SERVICE SPARK PLUGS
The spark plugs should be renewed at intervals of
40 000 km.
Before removing the spark plugs ensure that the
area around each plug is cl ean to prevent foreign
matter entering the cylinder when the plugs are
removed.
Spark plugs removed from an engine in good
mechanical condition should have a light powdery
deposit ranging from light brown to grayish tan in
color. After considerable service the electrodes will
show signs of wear or no rmal burning. Spark plugs
showing a thick black oily deposit indicate an engine
in poor mechanical condition or possibly, that a plug
with too low a heat range has been installed.
Spark plugs showing a white or yellowish deposit
indicate sustained high speed driving or possibly that
plugs with too high a heat range have been installed,
particularly when these deposits are accompanied by
blistering of the porcelain and burning of the elec-
trodes.
If the spark plugs are to be cleaned, use a
sandblasting machine and blow clean with com-
pressed air. Ensure that all traces of abrasive grit are
removed from the spark plug threads and from the
well in the plug body. Carefully open the electrode gap
a little, by bending the side electrode, and lightly file
the electrodes flat with a points file.
Black damp deposits can be caused by excessive oil
consumption or incorrect plug type. Spark plugs in this
condition are usually not firing.
Cutaway view of spark plug showing a crack in the
insulator nose which can be caused by exerting pres-
sure against the centre electrode when adjusting the
gap. The other crack shown on the insulator is caused
by tilting the plug spanner.
When plug electrodes are eroded to this degree the
spark can be considered worn out and should be
renewed using a plug of the recommended heat range
.
CRACK
Page 28 of 238
Engine Tune-up
Spark plug with burnt electrodes and white blistered
appearance, possibly due to incorrect plug type, loose
plug or motor running too hot.
NOTE: Never attempt to alter the electrode
gap by bending the centre electrode as
damage to the porcelain insulator will
result.
Before installing any spark plugs measure the gap
between the electrodes, pref erably with clean wire
gauges. If wire gauges are una vailable, use clean feeler
gauges. Move the side electrode towards or away from
the centre electrode to obtain the correct gap-
Screw the plugs into the cylinder head ringer tight,
then use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs lo the
specified torque.
Checking the spark plug electrode gap with a wire
gauge.
NOTE: If a torque wrench is unavailable,
extreme care must be taken when tightening
the spark plugs as over tightening may lead
to stripping of the thread from the cylinder
head. If the plugs are tightened with the
fingers and then taken up an additional 1/4
of a turn with a spark plug wrench, they will
be tight enough.
TO TEST COMPRESSION
(1) With the engine at operating temperature.
disconnect the high tension leads from the spark
plugs.
(2) Ensure that the area around each spark plug
is clean to prevent foreign matter entering the cylin-
ders and remove the spark plugs. (3) Remove the fusible link that is positioned
third from the front of th e fusible link connecting
block, located at the rear of the battery. Disconnect
the coil high tension lead from the coil.
NOTE: Failure to remove the fusible link
can result in an explosion.
(4) Install a compression gauge to number one
spark hole according to the gauge manufacturers
instructions. (5) Have an assistant fully open the throttle and
operate the starter switch to rotate the engine. Ob-
serve the compression gauge and stop the engine when
the gauge has reached the highest reading, usually
after 3 or 4 compression strokes.
(6) Record the reading a nd check the compres-
sion of the remaining cylinders in the same manner.
(7) Compare all the readings taken. Variation
between the highest and lowest reading cylinders
should not exceed 100 kPa. (8) If a low reading is recorded on one or more
cylinders the trouble may be isolated as follows :
Lightly file the plug electrodes flat with a points file
Page 30 of 238
30 Engine Tune-up
(1) With the distributor cap and leads removed
as an assembly, test one lead at a time, connecting the
meter probes at the spark plug end of the lead and at
the corresponding terminal in side the cap. Resistance
should be less than 15 000 ohms.
(2) If the resistance is more than 15 000 ohms
remove the lead from the distributor cap and check
(he resistance in the lead only. The lead should be
renewed if the resistance is still more than 15 000
ohms. (3) High distributor cap resistance may be due
to corrosion deposits on the cap terminals. These
deposits should be removed with a small scraper or
emery cloth. Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking
between the high tension terminals on both the inside
and outside of the cap. Renew the cap if cracks or
tracking are evident.
Check the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap for evidence of arcing and renew as
necessary.
Check the condition of the rotor and renew if
arced excessively or cracked.
HOW TO CONNECT ELECTRICAL TEST
EQUIPMENT
NOTE: Some types of tachometers, timing
lights and ignition system analysers are not
compatible with this type of electronic igni-
tion system and may result in incorrect
readings. It is therefore recommended that
the manufacturer of the test equipment be
consulted before using the equipment.
Do not allow the tachometer lead connec-
tor to short to earth as damage to the test
equipment or ignition system may result.
Timing Light
(1) Connect the timing light to the engine fol-
lowing the instrument manufacturers instructions.
NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the
timing light with the engine running as
voltage surges could damage the alternator.
Do not allow the high tension leads to open
circuit as damage to the ignition system
could result.
(2) Where necessary, connect the power leads of
the timing light to an external power source to prevent
possible transient voltages in the timing light damag-
ing the vehicle alternator.
Tachometer
(1) Ensure that the tachometer is compatible
with the vehicle ignition system. (2) Disconnect the resistor from the tachometer
View showing the location of the tachometer pickup
wiring connector with the resistor installed
.
pick up wiring connector which is located on the
ignition coil wiring harness, and connect the positive
lead of an accurate tachometer to the brown wire
terminal in the wiring connector.
(3) Connect the negative lead to a good earthing
point.
TO CHECK AND ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
( 1 ) Connect an accurate tachometer and timing
light to the engine as previously described.
View showing the location of the diagnostic link
connector. Passengers seat removed for clarity.
Inset shows the diagnostic link connector terminal
identification.
(2) Start the engine and allow it to reach normal
operating temperature. (3) Connect a jumper lead between terminals A
and B on the diagnostic link connector. (4) With the engine idling at the specified speed,
check the ignition timing with the timing light.
Correct timing exists when the marks on the
crankshaft pulley are aligned with the pointer on the
inner timing cover.
Page 33 of 238
Roadside Trouble Shooting
(5) Place the vent caps loosely over the cell
apertures.
(6) Connect one end of the red jumper lead to
the positive ( + ) battery terminal of the booster
battery and the other end of the red lead to the
positive (+) battery terminal of the discharged bat-
tery.
NOTE: The battery emits hydrogen gas
which is explosive. Do not expose the battery
to naked /lames or sparks.
Do not lean over the battery when con-
necting the jumper leads.
Do not allow the ends of the jumper leads
to touch one another or any part of the
engine.
(7) Connect one end of the black juniper lead to
the negative (-) battery terminal of the booster
battery and the other end of the black lead to a good
earthing point on the engine of the vehicle with the
discharged battery.
NOTE: Do not connect the jumper lead
directly to the negative (-) battery terminal
of the discharged battery.
(8) Start the engine on the vehicle with the
booster battery and run the engine at a moderate
speed. (9) Start the engine on the vehicle with the
discharged battery.
(10) If possible, leave the engines of both vehi-
cles running for 10 minutes.
(11) Disconnect the jumper leads in the reverse
order of the sequence in which they were connected.
2. TO CHECK IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
(1) Switch on the ignition and check for warning
lamp illumination on the dashboard. (2) Operate the starter and check that the starter
rotates the engine at a steady speed.
(3) Switch on the headlamps and check for good
light intensity. Should the lamps not illum inate or the starter
motor not turn the engine, carry out the following
steps:
(a) Remove the battery terminals and clean both
terminals and posts. Connect the terminals and where
applicable tighten firmly but not excessively.
(b) Check that the earth lead from the battery to
the engine or body frame is not broken and that the
connections are clean and secure. . (c) Check that the lead from the battery to the
starter motor or starter solenoid is intact and has a
clean and secure connection.
Ensure that the battery posts and terminals are clean.
(d) Where necessary carry out repairs to (b) and
(c).
Repeat the check procedur e. Should the starter
motor still not operate, or the lamps not illuminate,
one or more of the following faults may be the cause:
No starter motor operation or lamps: Battery flat
or defective.
Lamps illuminate but no starter operation: Starter
motor drive jammed in mesh with flywheel ring gear.
Starter motor or solenoid defective. Ignition/starter
switch faulty. On automatic transaxle models, faulty
neutral safety switch.
Lamps dim and starter operation sluggish: Dis-
charged battery or fault in starter motor. Battery flat
due to broken fan belt or de fective alternator. Faulty
battery due to cell breakdown.
NOTE: Electronic ignition systems can pro-
duce dangerously high voltages in both the
primary and secondary circuits. For this
reason, extreme care must be taken when
performing these checks. When disconnect-
Securely earth the body of a test spark plug to check
for sparks at the spark plug leads.
Page 44 of 238
44 Engine
Rear three quarter view of the 1.8 liter engine and automatic transaxle assembly.
mountings. Lower the assembly onto the mountings
and tighten the mounting nuts and bolts.
(4) Install a new exhaust flange gasket.
(5) Fill the engine and transaxle with the correct
quantity and grade of lubricant. (6) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (7) On models with power steering, fill the power
steering reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(8) Start and run the engine until it reaches the
normal operating temperatur e and check for fuel, oil
and coolant leaks.
4. MANIFOLDS
INLET MANIFOLD - 1.6 Liter Models
To Remove and Install
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurise the system before removing the
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Remove the wingnuts retaining the air
cleaner to the throttle body, lift the air cleaner
upwards slightly and disconnect the vacuum hoses. (3) Drain the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (4) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
engine coolant hoses from the rear of the manifold.
(5) Disconnect the small branch of the engine
ventilation hose from the rear of the inlet manifold. (6) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the kickdown cable from the throttle lever by releasing
the wire spring clip and re moving the cable end socket
from the ball.
(7) Turn the throttle lever to the full throttle
position. Using the slack in the throttle cable, release
the throttle cable end thr ough the slot provided.
Page 47 of 238
Engine 47
Line drawing showing the dimensions for the fabrication of a camshaft drive belt adjusting tool.
(5) Release the clips securing the camshaft drive
belt outer cover to the inner cover and remove the
outer cover.
(6) Turn the engine in the direction of rotation
until the timing marks on the camshaft gear and the
inner cover are aligned and the timing marks on the
crankshaft pulley and the pointer on the inner timing
cover are also aligned.
(7) If the drive belt is to be reused, mark the
drive belt with an arrow to ensure that it is installed
in the original direction of rotation. (8) Remove the Allen head bolts securing the
crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft gear and remove
the pulley. (9) Loosen the water pump retaining bolts and
using the adjusting tool, rotate the water pump
housing to release the camsh aft drive belt tension.
NOTE: A drive belt tension adjusting tool
can be manufactured from a piece of 10 mm
thick steel to the dimensions given in the
illustration.
(10) Remove the inner cover lower retaining bolts
and maneuver the camshaft drive belt from the
camshaft and crankshaft gears. Do not rotate the
crankshaft or camshaft.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT
(1) Inspect the drive belt for any signs of wear,
damaged teeth or torn backing. Renew the belt if it is
contaminated by oil. Do not wash or clean a drive belt
in solvents. Any slight contamination may be wiped
off using a dry cloth.
NOTE: If the drive belt is contaminated
with oil, the crankshaft and camshaft oil
Dismantled view of the camshaft drive belt
components.
seals must be checked and any oil leak
rectified prior to installing a new drive belt.
(2) Check the water pump for rough or exces-
sively noisy operation. Ensure that the assembly slides
smoothly in the cylinder bloc k and that the seal is not
leaking. Refer to the Cooling and Heating Systems
section if it is necessary to renew the water pump
assembly. (3) Check the water pump, camshaft and crank-
shaft timing gears for any wear or damage.
Check the drive belt for the illustrated faults.
Page 51 of 238
Engine 51
coolant temperature sensor and temperature sender
switch located in the thermostat housing.
(8) Remove the bolt securing the wiring clamp
to the rear of the manifold and maneuver the wiring
away from the cylinder head and the inlet manifold.
(9) Disconnect the throttle cable and on auto-
matic transaxle models, the kickdown cable from the
throttle body linkage. (10) Remove the bolls securing the throttle cable
bracket to the inlet manifold and place the bracket
and cable(s) to one side.
(11) Mark the fuel supply and return hoses to
ensure correct installation and disconnect the hoses
from the fuel rail or throttle body. Plug the hoses to
prevent the loss of fuel or the entry of dirt. (12) Mark the vacuum hoses connected to the
inlet manifold and throttle body to ensure correct
installation and disconnect the hoses. (13) Remove the nuts securing the engine pipe to
the exhaust manifold and separate the pipe from the
manifold. (14) Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust
manifold. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section if necessary. (15) Remove the distributor and coil as described
in the Fuel and Engine Management section. (16) Disconnect the engine breather hoses from
the camshaft housing and cams haft housing top cover.
(17) Remove the bolts retaining the top cover to
the camshaft housing and remove the top cover. (18) Using an open end spanner, hold the cam-
shaft between the inlet and exhaust lobes of number
four cylinder and remove the camshaft timing gear
retaining bolt and the camshaft timing gear.
(19) Remove the bolts securing the camshaft
drive belt inner cover to the camshaft housing. (20) Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse
order of the tightening sequence, backing off each bolt
a quarter turn then half a turn at a time until the bolts
are loose.
NOTE: Do not loosen the head bolts while
the engine is warm as distortion of the
cylinder head could result.
(21) Remove the cylinder head bolts and lift the
camshaft housing from the cylinder head. (22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket from
the cylinder block. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces of the
cylinder head, cylinder block and camshaft housing
and check all mating surfaces with a straight edge.
Ensure that all the oilways are clean and free of any
foreign material and lightly oil all operating parts with
engine oil.
(2) Install new gaskets throughout during
assem-
bly.
View of the cylinder head showing the bolt tightening
sequence.
(3) Ensure that the cylinde r head and gasket are
located correctly on the dowels on the cylinder block
face. The head gasket is marked TOP to aid in correct
installation. (4) With the cylinder head and gasket in posi-
tion on the cylinder block, apply an even smear of
Loctite 515 to the cylinder head and camshaft housing
mating surfaces. Take care that no sealant is forced
into the oil passages. (5) Install new cylinder head bolts and lubricate
the bolts and washers with engine oil,
(6) Apply an initial torque to the cylinder head
bolts of 25 Nm in the sequence shown in the
illustration. Further tighten the head bolts in the same
sequence in three separate 60 degree stages. Refer to
Specifications. (7) Install the bolts secur ing the camshaft drive
belt inner cover to the camshaft housing. Install the
camshaft timing gear and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. (8) Install and adjust the camshaft drive belt as
previously described. (9) Install the distributor, coil and oxygen sensor
as described in the Fuel and Engine Management
section.
(10) Using a new gasket, connect the engine pipe
to the exhaust manifold flange, coat the nuts with an
anti-seize compound and install and tighten the nuts
to
the specified torque. (11) Connect all hoses and electrical wiring dis-
connected during the removal of the cylinder head.
Ensure that all the hoses are returned to their original
locations. (12) Connect the throttle cable and where appli-
cable, the kickdown cable. Adjust the cables as
described in the Fuel and Engine Management section
and the Automatic Transaxle section. (13) Check the engine oil fo r correct level on the
dipstick and for dilution. Change the engine oil and
filter if necessary. (14) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (15) Start the engine and check for oil or water