check engine light NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Owner's Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 113 of 238
Fuel and Engine Management 113
(2) Disconnect the wiring connector from the
MAT sensor.
(3) Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Apply Loctite 567 or a similar conductive
sealer to the threads of th e sensor. Tighten the sensor
to the specified torque. (2) Ensure that the wiring connector is clean and
tight.
OXYGEN SENSOR
To Test - Code 13
(1) Run the engine until the normal operating
temperature is obtained. (2) With the ignition switched Off, connect a
jumper lead between terminals A and B on the
diagnostic link connector.
(3) Start and run the engi ne at approximately
1 600-1 800 rpm for 2 minutes and note the ECM
warning lamp.
If the ECM warning lamp flashes at the rate of
twice per second, proceed to operation (5).
If the ECM warning lamp flashes at the rate of
once per second or slower, proceed as follows.
(4) Remove the jumper lead from the diagnostic
link connector and run th e engine above 2 000 rpm
for 2 minutes, noting the ECM warning lamp.
If the ECM warning lamp lights, stop the engine,
switch the ignition On and connect a jumper lead
between terminals A and B on the diagnostic link
connector. If code 13 is displayed proceed to opera-
tion (5).
If the ECM warning lamp does not light, an
intermittent fault is indicated. Proceed as follows:
(a) Check for faulty wiri ng connections. Check
that all wiring connectors are clean and secure.
(b) Check that all earth wires are secure.
(5) Switch the ignition Off and disconnect the
oxygen sensor wiring connector. Using a jumper lead
connect the oxygen sensor wiring connector to a
suitable engine earth. (6) Start and run the engi ne at approximately
1 600-1 800 rpm and note the ECM warning lamp.
The lamp may flash for a few seconds but should then
extinguish for at least 30 seconds.
If the ECM warning lamp functions as described,
proceed to operation (7).
If the ECM warning lamp does not function as
described proceed as follows:
(a) Check the wiring harness between the oxygen
sensor wiring connector and the control unit wiring
connector D7 for open circuits. Repair or renew the
wiring harness as necessary.
{b) Check the earth circuit between the control
unit wiring connect D6 and the right rear cylinder
head bolts. Repair or renew the wiring harness as
necessary.
(c) If no fault is found in (a) and (b) renew the
control unit and retest for fault codes.
(7) Check the wiring harness earth circuit be-
tween the control unit wiring connector D6 and the
right rear cylinder head bolts. Repair or renew the
wiring harness as necessary.
If no fault is found, thoroughly check the oxygen
sensor connector. If the conne ctor is not faulty, renew
the oxygen sensor.
To Test - Code 44
(1) Run the engine until normal operating tem-
perature is attained.
(2) With the ignition switched Off, connect a
jumper lead between terminals A and B on the
diagnostic link connector. (3) Start and run the engi ne at approximately
1 600-1 800 rpm for 2 minutes and note the ECM
warning lamp. If the ECM warning lamp is off more than on or
flashes at the rate of twice per second, proceed to
operation (4).
If the ECM warning lamp flashes evenly at the
rate of once per second an intermittent fault is
indicated. Proceed as follows:
(a) Check for faulty wiri ng connections. Check
that all wiring connectors are clean and secure. (b) Check that all earth wires are secure.
(4) Switch the engine Off and disconnect the
oxygen sensor wiring connector.
(5) Start and run the engine at 1 600-1 800 rpm
for at least 30 seconds and note the ECM warning
lamp. If the ECM warning lamp flashes at the rate of
twice per second procee d to operation (6).
If the ECM warning lamp extinguishes for at least
30 seconds, check the wiring harness between the
oxygen sensor wiring connector and the control unit
wiring connector terminal D7 for shorts to earth.
Repair or renew the wiring harness as necessary.
If no fault can be found in the wiring harness, renew
the control unit.
Installed view of the oxygen sensor.
Page 115 of 238
Fuel and Engine Management 115
Erase the fault codes and retest for fault codes as
follows:
(2) Start and run the engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is attained. (3) Drive the vehicle at a speed of at least 80
km/h and, with the throttle closed, allow the vehicle to
decelerate until the engine speed is below 1 500 rpm.
NOTE: After rectifying any fault it will be
necessary to retest for fault codes. To test for
Code 24 the vehicle must be driven as
previously described.
(4) Switch the engine Off and connect a jumper
lead between terminals A and B on the diagnostic link
connector. Switch the ignition On and note the fault
codes. If code 24 is displayed proceed as follows. (5) Check the operation of the speedometer and
the instrument cluster warning lamps. If the speed-
ometer only is not functioning, proceed to operation
(13).
If the speedometer and the instrument cluster
warning lamps are not functioning, a fault in the
instrument cluster wiring harness is indicated. Refer
the fault to an auto electrical workshop or a Nissan
dealer.
If the speedometer is functioning, proceed as
follows:
(6) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. (7) Place the transaxle in Neutral and switch the
ignition On. (8) With the aid of assistants, slowly spin the
front wheels by hand while backprobing the control
unit wiring connector terminal A10 with a digital
voltmeter to earth. The voltage should alternate from under 1 volt to
over 10 volts.
If the voltmeter readi ng is not as specified,
proceed to operation (9).
If the voltmeter reading is as specified, the vehicle
speed sensor is operating satisfactorily, indicating an
intermittent fault was the cause of the fault code.
Proceed as follows:
(a) Check for faulty wiri ng connections. Check
that all wiring connectors are clean and secure. (b) Check that all earth c onnections are secure.
(9) Remove the instrument cluster as described
in the Electrical System section. (10) With the ignition switched On, backprobe
the control unit wiring connector terminal A10 with a
voltmeter to earth. The voltage should be over 10
volts. If the voltage is less than specified, check the
wiring harness for shorts to earth between the black
and yellow wire terminal on the instrument cluster
wiring connector and the control unit connector
terminal A10. Repair or renew the wiring harness as
necessary. If no fault can be found, renew the control
unit.
(11) With the ignition switched On, backprobe
the black and yellow wire terminal on the instrument
cluster wiring connector with a voltmeter to earth.
The voltage should be over 10 volts.
If the voltage is less than specified, locate the open
circuit between the instrument cluster black and
yellow wire terminal and the control unit wiring
connector terminal A10. Repair or renew the wiring
harness as necessary.
(12) With a test lamp connected to 12 volts,
backprobe the black wire terminals on the instrument
cluster wiring connectors. The test lamp should light.
If the test lamp does not light locate the open
circuit between the black wire terminals and earth.
Repair or renew the wiring harness as necessary.
If the test lamp does light, renew the signal
divider circuit board which is located in the instru-
ment cluster.
(13) With the ignition switched On and the
engine not running, disconnect the vehicle speed
sensor wiring connector from the harness connector.
(14) With a test lamp connected to earth, probe
the yellow wire terminal on the harness wiring con-
nector. The test lamp should light. If the test lamp does not light, locate the open
circuit between the yellow wi re terminal and the Fuel
Pump fuse. Repair or renew the wiring harness as
necessary.
(15) With a test lamp connected to 12 volts,
probe the black wire terminal on the harness wiring
connector. The test lamp should light.
If the test lamp does not light, locate the open
circuit between the black wire terminal and earth.
Repair or renew the wiring harness as necessary.
(16) Using a voltmeter measure the voltage at the
red wire terminal on the harness wiring connector.
If the voltage is 5-9 volts proceed to operation
(19).
If the voltage is over 9 vol ts proceed to operation
(18).
Installed view of the vehicle speed sensor.
Page 118 of 238
118 Emission Control
Installed view of the charcoal canister.
When the engine is at rest, fuel vapor through
evaporation gradually fills the air space in the fuel
tank. The sealed filler cap pr events the escape of this
vapor and pressure builds up within the system,
forcing the vapor to flow into the charcoal canister
which is located in the engine compartment beneath
the windscreen wiper motor.
The fuel check valve prevents liquid fuel entering
the charcoal canister when the fuel tank is full or the
vehicle is parked on a steep incline. When the engine
is running, the vapor is drawn via a hose from the
charcoal canister to the throttle body and burnt in the
combustion chambers.
TO RENEW CHARCOAL CANISTER
(1) Suitably mark and disconnect the hoses from
the canister. (2) Release the retaining spring and remove the
canister from the engine compartment. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.
TO RENEW FUEL CHECK VALVE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the left hand rear wheel. (3) Drain the fuel from the fuel tank using a
hand pump or a suitable siphon. Do not siphon fuel
using the mouth.
(4) Remove the hoses from the check valve.
(5) Squeeze the retaining clip and remove the
check valve from the mounting bracket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.
TO SERVICE THE SYSTEM
(1) Inspect the vacuum lines and connectors for
signs of leakage, cracks and deterioration and renew
as necessary. (2) Remove the fuel tank cap and check that a
slight resistance is felt, when vacuum is applied to the
one-way relief valve in the centre of the cap. Renew the fuel tank cap if no resistance is felt or
if the valve is blocked.
(3) Inspect the fuel tank cap seal for deteriora-
tion. Renew as necessary.
Installed view of the fuel check valve as seen with the
left hand rear wheel removed.
Check the fuel filler cap seal for damage.
23Q/LDZ GAUGE
Line drawing showing a hand vacuum pump.
Page 122 of 238
122 Clutch
Check the engine mountings for damage and deterio- ration.
NOTE: Clutch shudder is usually most
evident when reversing up an incline. As
loose or damaged engine mountings are a
cause for clutch shudder, thoroughly check
the engine mounting rubbers and mounting
hardware for damage or looseness before
removing the clutch for inspection.
CLUTCH GRAB
(1) Oil soaked driven plate facings: Renew the
clutch driven plate. Invest igate and rectify the source
of the oil leak.
(2) Cracked pressure plate face: Renew the pres-
sure plate assembly. (3) Loose or broken engine mountings: Check
and renew the engine mountings as necessary.
(4) Binding release mechanism: Check the oper-
ation of the release mechanism.
NOTE: Visually check the operation of the
cable actuated release mechanism. Check
the inner cable for fraying and jamming in
the outer cable.
INSUFFICIENT CLUTCH RELEASE
(1) Stretched, frayed or broken clutch cable:
Check and renew the clutch cable. (2) Worn or damaged release mechanism: Check
and renew components as necessary. (3) Insufficient pedal height: Check and adjust
the pedal height.
(4) Warped clutch driven plate: Renew the
clutch driven plate. (5) Excessive clutch release lever free play:
Check and adjust the release lever free play to
Specifications.
NOTE: Visually check that the clutch cable
operates the release lever before removing
the clutch for inspection.
RELEASE BEARING NOISE
(1) Dry or worn release bearing: Check and
renew the release bearing.
(2) Damaged pressure plate diaphragm spring;
Check and renew the pressure plate assembly.
NOTE: Lightly depress the clutch pedal with
the engine running to check for release
bearing noise. If the release bearing is faulty
and has to be renewed, always check the
other clutch components.
Check the diaphragm spring fingers for scoring and damage.
2. DESCRIPTION
The clutch consists of a single, dry, driven plate
assembly, splined to slide on the transaxle input shaft.
A diaphragm spring type pr essure plate assembly is
bolted to the engine flywheel.
The driven plate is sandwiched between the
pressure plate and the flywheel and transmits the
drive from the engine to the transaxle.
Cushion rubbers are interposed between the hub
of the driven plate assembly and the plate friction
surfaces in order to cushion the drive.
The release mechanism is actuated by the clutch
pedal through a cable to the release lever and bearing.
Operation of the clutch pedal moves the release
lever which pushes the release bearing into contact
with the diaphragm spring fingers, forcing the dia-
phragm centre towards the flywheel. When the outer
edge of the diaphragm deflects, the clutch is caused to
disengage.
Clutch pedal free play is adjusted at the release
lever end of the clutch cable.
Clutch pedal height is adjusted at the pedal stop
on the pedal mounting bracket located under the
dashboard.
Page 125 of 238
Clutch 125
(3) Remove the nuts retaining the outer cable
flange to the vehicle bulkhead.
(4) Working inside the ve hicle, disconnect the
inner cable from the top of the clutch pedal. (5) Pull the clutch cable through the bulkhead
into the engine compartment. (6) Release the clip retaining the centre of the
clutch cable and remove the cable from the vehicle. (7) Check the inner cable for fraying, wear and
damage. Check the outer cable for kinks, wear and
damage. If necessary, renew the cable assembly. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Lubricate the inner cable ends with lithium
base molybdenum disulphide grease prior to installa-
tion. (2) Tighten the nuts retaining the outer cable
flange to a torque of 11 Nm. (3) Check and if necessary , adjust the clutch
pedal height and free play as described under the
heading Clutch Adjustments.
6. CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS
TO ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT (1) Fold back the floor carpet and the sound
insulation from the drivers side floor panel.
(2) Measure the distance at right angles from the
floor panel to the centre of the pedal pad. (3) If the pedal height is not as specified, adjust
the pedal stop bolt until the correct pedal height is
obtained.
TO ADJUST PEDAL AND RELEASE LEVER
FREE PLAY
(1) Loosen the inner cable locknut at the release
lever clevis. (2) Push the release lever until resistance is felt
when the release bearing contacts the pressure plate
fingers and hold the release lever in this position.
(3) Tighten the inner cable adjusting nut until
the inner cable is taut.
(4) Loosen the adjusting nut 2.5-3.5 turns and
tighten the inner cable locknut. (5) Measure the release lever free play. If the free
play is not as specified, loosen the locknut and turn
the adjusting nut until the correct free play is
obtained.
View of the clutch release lever free play adjusting
nut.
(6) Lightly depress the clutch pedal until resis-
tance is felt when the release bearing contacts the
pressure plate fingers. Measure the distance from the
centre of the pedal pad in this position to the centre
of the pedal pad when the pedal is contacting the stop
bolt. If necessary, check and adjust the release lever
free play which should bring the pedal free play within
Specifications.
Measuring the clutch pedal height with the carpet
removed.
Page 144 of 238
144 Automatic Transaxle
Front view of the automatic transaxle.
transaxle. Plug the hoses and connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt and the loss of fluid.
(7) Remove the starter motor as described in the
Electrical System section.
(8) Mark the torque converter and the drive
plate to aid assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts retaining the torque con-
verter to the drive plate. Rotate the engine to access
the bolts through the starter motor opening. (10) Remove the bolts retaining the converter
housing to the rear of the engine. (11) Secure the transaxle to a trolley jack and
raise the transaxle slightly. (12) Remove the through bolt from the transaxle
mounting.
(13) Support the engine on a jack with timber
between the engine sump and the jack. (14) Maneuver the transaxle away from the
engine. Lower the trolley jack and withdraw the
transaxle from beneath the vehicle.
NOTE: To prevent accidental separation of
the torque converter from the transaxle
assembly, attach a metal strap across the
converter housing.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Check the torque converter drive plate for
any damage, wear and runout. The maximum runout
permissible is 0.50 mm.
(2) Ensure that the torque converter is fully
engaged in the transaxle be fore attempting to install
the transaxle to the engine. (3) Install the transaxle assembly to the vehicle
and install the converter housing retaining bolts. (4) Align the torque converter and drive plate
Install a strap to the converter housing to hold the
torque converter in position.
Rear view of the automatic transaxle.
with the marks made on removal.
(5) Install the torque converter retaining bolts.
(6) Turn the engine over by hand several times
to ensure that the torque converter is not binding. (7) Use only the specified type and quantity of
transaxle fluid.
(8) Connect and adjust the neutral safety switch
and kickdown cable as previously described.
(9) Road test the vehicle and check the opera-
tion of the kickdown cable and selector cable. (10) After road testing inspect the transaxle for
any fluid leaks and rectify as required.
CONVERTER HOUSING
Page 172 of 238
172
BRAKES
SPECIFICATIONS
Type:
Except Pulsar/Vector GL from
July 1989 and Astra models ... Four wheel disc
Pulsar/Vector GL from
July 1989 and Astra models —
Front...............................................................Disc
Rear..............................................................Drum
Operation:
Footbrake ............... Vacuum assisted diagonally
split dual hydraulic
Handbrake................ Mechanical on rear wheels
Fluid type ...........................................................Dot 4
Master cylinder:
Make ........................................................ Girlock
Bore diameter —
Large .................................................... 25.40 mm
Small .................................................... 20.64 mm
Front disc brakes:
Caliper bore diameter ........................... 48.1 mm
Disc diameter ........................................ 240 mm
Disc thickness, minimum ......................... 16 mm
Disc runout, maximum ......................... 0.07 mm
Disc pad thickness, minimum ....................2 mm
Rear disc pads:
Caliper bore diameter ......................... 30.16 mm
Disc diameter ........................................ 234 mm
Disc thickness, minimum ...........................9 mm
Disc runout, maximum .......................... 0.07 mm
Disc pad thickness, minimum ....................2 mm
Rear drum brakes:
Wheel cylinder bore diameter ............ 15.87 mm
Drum diameter, maximum ............... 204.50 mm
Drum out of round, maximum.............. 0.03 mm
Drum runout, maximum ........................ 0.05 mm
Brake lining wear limit ........................... 1.5 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Brake pedal bracket to body........................... 11 Nm
Brake pedal pivot bolt ..................................... 11 Nm
Brake servo unit to body................................. I I N m
Brake servo unit to master cylinder ............... 11 Nm
Pressure differential piston plug ...................... 12 Nm
Proportioning valve plug................................. 27 Nm
Caliper anchor plate bolts ............................... 52 Nm
Caliper guide bolts .......................................... 31 Nm
Brake hose to caliper....................................... 34 Nm
Handbrake cable bracket bolt ......................... 49 Nm
Handbrake lever to body ................................ 11 Nm
Cable clamp to body....................................... 11 Nm
Cam lever nut.................................................. 49 Nm
1. BRAKES TROUBLE SHOOTING
BRAKE PEDAL HARD
(1) Seized caliper piston or wheel cylinder: Over-
haul the caliper or wheel cylinder.
(2) Seized master cylinder piston: Overhaul the
master cylinder. (3) Seized pedal pivot: Rectify or renew the
pedal pivot shaft and bushes. (4) Restricted brake line: Remove the restriction
or renew the brake line.
(5) Vacuum servo system inoperative: Check
and repair the servo system.
NOTE: The vacuum servo system can be
checked as follows: With the engine
switched off, pump the brake pedal several
times to deplete any vacuum in the system.
With the engine still switched off, press
down firmly on the brake pedal and hold it
there noting the position and pressure re-
quired. Start the engine. If the servo unit is
operating correctly, the brake pedal will sink
slightly and the pressure required to hold it
may reduce. If the pedal does not sink
slightly when the engine is started, check the
vacuum supply to the servo unit. If vacuum
is reaching the brake servo unit, the unit can
be considered inoperative.
BRAKE DRAG
(1) Clogged master cylinder ports: Clean the
master cylinder and the fluid reservoir. Renew the
brake fluid. (2) Seized caliper piston or wheel cylinder: Over-
haul the caliper or wheel cylinder.
(3) Seized handbrake linkage: Free up or renew
the linkage.
Page 177 of 238
Brakes 177
installed. Install the second back up ring, large
diam-
eter first.
(6) Install the second garter spring. Insert
a
machined drift into the bore and lightly push the
garter spring into its locating groove.
(7) Smear the secondary piston with clean brake
fluid. Ease the seal over the piston body into the
groove adjacent to the spring, ensuring that the seal lip
faces the spring and that the nylon spacer is against
the back of the seal. (8) Install the guide onto the secondary
piston,
large internal diameter first, followed by the main seal
with the lip facing away from the spring. (9) Lubricate the secondary piston assembly
with clean brake fluid and install the secondary spring
and retainer to the piston. Install the complete assem-
bly into the master cylinder bore. (10) Smear the primary piston with clean brake
fluid. Install the guide, large internal diameter first,
followed by the main seal with the lip facing towards
the small end of the piston.
(11) Install the retainer to the spigot on the front
end of the primary piston ensuring that the legs of the
retainer engage with the groove on the piston. (12) Lubricate the primary piston assembly with
clean brake fluid and install the assembly into the
master cylinder bore. With a blunt rod, push the
assembly down the bore sufficiently to preload the
pistons. While holding the preload, install the stop pin
and valve assemblies into
the master cylinder body and tighten securely. (13) Install a new O ring to the groove on the boss
of the mounting flange of the master cylinder.
(14) Install new O rings to th e pressure differential
pistons, smear them with cl ean brake fluid and install
them into the master cylinder body. (15) Install a new O ring to the pressure differen-
tial end plug, install the plug to the master
cylinder
body and tighten to the specified torque. (16) Using a blunt probe entered through the
sensing switch location hole, separate the pressure
differential pistons and install the switch actuating
lever between them. (17) Screw the sensing switch into its locating
hole until the detents on the switch body just contact
the locating hole facing (w ith the radial grooves).
Screw the switch assembly in a further half to one full
turn ensuring that the dete nts locate in the grooves.
(18) Install new valve seal s to the proportioning
valve plungers, with the serrations of the seals facing
away from the hexagons of the plungers.
(19) Install the new O rings to the
proportioning
valve plugs. (20) Install the valve springs over the stems of the
proportioning valves, insert the install the valve
plugs.
Tighten the plugs to the specified torque.
(21) Install a new O ring to the base of the fast fill
valve assembly. Install a new valve washer to the base
of the valve.
(22) Install the fast fill valve assembly in
the
primary reservoir port (nearest to the mounting flange
of the master cylinder) and install the snap ring
to
retain the assembly. Ensure that the snap ring is
correctly seated in the groove. (23) Smear the new reservoir retainers with clean
brake fluid and install them into the reservoir ports.
Carefully press the brake fluid reservoir into position,
ensuring that the outlet extensions are fully inserted in
the reservoir retainers. (24) Install the reservoir cap insert to the dia-
phragm and press the cap assembly onto the reservoir.
TO INSTAL
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Pour a small amount of clean brake fluid into
the reservoir and pump the master cylinder pistons
with a blunt rod until fluid begins to emerge from the
outlets. (2) Install the master cylinder to the brake servo
unit and loosely install the master cylinder retaining
nuts. (3) Connect the brake pipes to the master cylin-
der outlets, but do not tighten at this stage. (4) Securely tighten the nuts retaining the master
cylinder to the brake servo unit.
(5) Securely tighten the brake pipes and connect
the wiring to the pressure sensing switch.
(6) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with clean
brake fluid and bleed the brakes as described under
the Hydraulic System heading. (7) Check and if necessary adjust the brake
pedal height and free play as described under the
Brake Pedal heading.
4. BRAKE SERVO UNIT
TO CHECK OPERATION
(1) With the engine switched off, apply the
footbrake several times to exhaust all vacuum from
the system.
(2) Apply the footbrake and hold the brake pedal
fully depressed.
(3) Start the engine. If the servo unit is function-
ing satisfactorily a distinct downward movement of
the
brake pedal should be noticed. Should the pedal fail to move downward when the
engine has been started, the vacuum system can be
considered inoperative.
NOTE: If the pedal continues to fall away
there is a fault in the hydraulic system.
(4) Ensure that the brake pedal is fully released,
start the engine and run it at medium speed. Stop the
engine.
Page 192 of 238
192 Electrical System
transaxle models, check for a faulty or incorrectly
adjusted neutral safety switch.
1. Discharged battery: Check for a fault or short
circuit in the system. 2. Battery fully charged but will not crank
engine. Check for a locked drive and ring gear,
internal starter faul t or seized engine.
3. Fusible link blown: Check and repair the
cause and renew as necessary.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure
that the starter drive is not locked with the
flywheel ring gear and t hat the engine is not
seized. Ensure that the ignition key is
turned off before rotating the engine.
3. LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
LAMP OR LAMPS FAIL TO LIGHT
1. Faulty bulb(s): Check and renew the faulty
bulb(s). 2. Open circuit in the wiring or connections:
Check the lamp circuits and rectify as necessary.
1. Faulty lamp switch: Check and if necessary
renew the lamp switch. 2. Faulty fuse or fuse connection: Repair the
fuse connection or renew the fuse. 3. Lamp relay faulty: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: Switch on the lamps concerned and
using a test lamp, check that the lamp
circuits are operating. This is best done by
starting at the lamp wiring connector or
bulb holder and work ing back to the power
source.
LAMP OR LAMPS INCORRECTLY
ILLUMINATED
1. Lamp or lamps incorrectly earthed: Check
the lamp earth for loosene ss or clean the contact,
either at the lamp body or wire.
2. Incorrect bulbs installe d: Check the bulb
wattage and voltage and renew with the correct type if
necessary. 3. Dirty or damaged lamp reflector: Clean or
renew the lamp reflector. 4. Faulty bulb: Check with a known serviceable
bulb and renew if necessary. 5. Dirty lamp lens: Clean or renew the lamp
lens. 6. High resistance or faulty connections be-
tween the alternator and battery: Check the circuit
and rectify th e condition.
7. Poor earth connection between the battery
and the engine or alternat or: Check the battery earth
lead and the strap between the engine and the body. 8. Voltage regulator faulty: Check and renew
the voltage regulator.
NOTE: The most common cause for this
condition is dirty t erminals on the earth
leads. Check all earth leads at their earthing
points.
4. TURN SIGNAL LAMP TROUBLE SHOOTING
TURN SIGNAL LAMP DOES NOT LIGHT AND
NO AUDIBLE NOISE FROM FLASHER UNIT
(1) Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew the
fuse.
(2) The Flasher unit is faulty: Renew the unit
(3) Turn signal switch faulty: Renew the switch
(4) Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.
TURN SIGNAL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT
FLASH BUT AUDIBLE CLICKING FROM
FLASHER UNIT
(1) Warning lamp bulb blown: Check and renew
the bulb.
Checking the rear combination lamp circuit using a test
lamp.
Checking the headlamp circuit using a test lamp.
Page 196 of 238
196 Electrical System
Check the specific gravity in each cell with a hydro-
meter.
Check the battery electrolyte level and re-
plenish as necessary. Remove the filler cap s from the battery.
Follow the battery charger manufacturers
instructions. (3) Should the battery fail to operate satisfacto-
rily after charging, it is recommended that it be taken
to a workshop with the necessary equipment to per-
form a load test. Load testing, when performed in
conjunction with the specific gravity tests described
above will give an accurate indication of the service-
ability of the battery.
7. ALTERNATOR
Special Equipment Required
To Test On Vehicle - Voltmeter, 100-0-100
amp ammeter, ohmmeter
To Dismantle — 200 watt soldering iron,
bearing
puller, press
To Assemble — 200 watt soldering iron
DESCRIPTION
Two types of alternator are installed to the range
of vehicles covered by this manual, either Hitachi or
Bosch. In the alternator, the field and pole shoe assembly
is the moving part and it is shaped to form the rotor.
Since only a low amperage current flows between the
slip rings on the rotor shaft and the brushes, wear on
the brushes and slip rings is very slight and mainte-
nance is reduced to a minimum. The output current is generated in the fixed stator
windings and is a three phase alternating current
(AC). The stator windings are wound on a laminated
soft iron former, star connected and installed between
the end brackets. As it is not possible to charge a storage battery
with alternating current, it is necessary to rectify the
output of the stator windings to direct current (DC). This is done by a bank of diodes mounted within the
alternator slip ring end bracket.
The output of the alternator is governed by the
regulator and the built in ch aracteristics of the alter-
nator.
The regulator and brush holder assembly on
Hitachi alternators is mounted within the alternator
on the slip ring end bracket side. On Bosch
alternators
the regulator and brush holder unit is mounted to the
outside of the slip ring end bracket. An electrical cut out unit is not necessary with the
alternator charging system as the diodes prevent a
reverse current flow through the alternator.
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Ensure that the battery is connected with the
correct polarity to earth. Refer to Specifications.
Do not short out or ground any terminals
common to the charging circuit. Always disconnect the battery before con-
necting a battery charger.
If a booster battery is used, always connect it
in a parallel circuit i.e. positive to positive ( + to + )
and negative to negative (- to -) to maintain a 12
volt supply. Never disconnect the battery or terminals in
the charging circuit while the engine is running. Regularly check that the alternator drive belt
tension is as specified. Refer to the Engine Tune-up
section.
Keep the battery terminals clean and all
electrical connections tight. Disconnect the battery and alternator when
electric welding on the vehicle.
TO TEST ON VEHICLE If the charge indicator lamp stays on after the
engine has been started and run at approximately
1 000 rpm, carry out the following tests. Stop the engine.
Check the condition and adjustment of the
alternator drive belt. Clean the battery terminals, tighten all elec-
trical connections, check the wiring for shorts to earth
and/or bridged circuits. Ensure that the battery is fully
charged. If the battery is discharged charge it or
replace it with one fully charged. Start the engine and allow it to run until
normal operating temperature is reached.
Stop the engine and disconnect the negative
battery terminal.
Remove the nut and washer from the alter-
nator output terminal (B +) and disconnect the alter-
nator output lead. Connect one lead of an ammeter to the
alternator output terminal and the other lead to the
lead removed from the output terminal. Connect the negative battery terminal and
connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.