engine oil NISSAN PULSAR 1987 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 29 of 238
Engine Tune-up 29
Check the cylinder compressions using a compression gauge.
(a) Inject a small amount of engine oil into the
spark plug hole of the cylinder concerned ensuring
that the oil is evenly distributed within the cylinder by
rotating the engine.
(b) Repeat the compression test on the cylinder
concerned.
A substantial increase of compression pressure
indicates faulty or worn piston rings, pistons or
cylinder.
No increase of compression pressure indicates
burnt, obstructed or sticking valves, or a leaking or
blown cylinder head gasket.
(9) Install the fusible li nk and connect the high
tension lead to the coil.
TO SERVICE THE DISTRIBUTOR
The electronic ignition system requires virtually
no maintenance except for checking of the distributor
cap. rotor and high tension leads as described below.
Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management section
for Specifications and Trouble Shooting.
NOTE: When working on or near electronic
ignition systems, care should be taken as
dangerous high voltages are present in both
the primary and secondary circuits.
The ignition switch should be turned off
before removing or inst alling any electrical
connections otherwise damage to the igni-
tion system as well as severe electrical shock
could result.
TO SERVICE HIGH TENSION LEADS
Check the leads for perishing or cracking and
renew as required. Never a ttempt to repair defective
carbon impregnated core leads.
The lead may be carefully cleaned, using cloth
moistened with kerosene a nd then wiped completely
dry.
If an ohmmeter is available the electrical resis-
tance of the leads may be checked as follows:
View showing the location of the fusible links.
Check the spark plug high tension leads for cracks and
burnt or corroded terminals.
Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking
between the terminals
.
Page 30 of 238
30 Engine Tune-up
(1) With the distributor cap and leads removed
as an assembly, test one lead at a time, connecting the
meter probes at the spark plug end of the lead and at
the corresponding terminal in side the cap. Resistance
should be less than 15 000 ohms.
(2) If the resistance is more than 15 000 ohms
remove the lead from the distributor cap and check
(he resistance in the lead only. The lead should be
renewed if the resistance is still more than 15 000
ohms. (3) High distributor cap resistance may be due
to corrosion deposits on the cap terminals. These
deposits should be removed with a small scraper or
emery cloth. Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking
between the high tension terminals on both the inside
and outside of the cap. Renew the cap if cracks or
tracking are evident.
Check the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap for evidence of arcing and renew as
necessary.
Check the condition of the rotor and renew if
arced excessively or cracked.
HOW TO CONNECT ELECTRICAL TEST
EQUIPMENT
NOTE: Some types of tachometers, timing
lights and ignition system analysers are not
compatible with this type of electronic igni-
tion system and may result in incorrect
readings. It is therefore recommended that
the manufacturer of the test equipment be
consulted before using the equipment.
Do not allow the tachometer lead connec-
tor to short to earth as damage to the test
equipment or ignition system may result.
Timing Light
(1) Connect the timing light to the engine fol-
lowing the instrument manufacturers instructions.
NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the
timing light with the engine running as
voltage surges could damage the alternator.
Do not allow the high tension leads to open
circuit as damage to the ignition system
could result.
(2) Where necessary, connect the power leads of
the timing light to an external power source to prevent
possible transient voltages in the timing light damag-
ing the vehicle alternator.
Tachometer
(1) Ensure that the tachometer is compatible
with the vehicle ignition system. (2) Disconnect the resistor from the tachometer
View showing the location of the tachometer pickup
wiring connector with the resistor installed
.
pick up wiring connector which is located on the
ignition coil wiring harness, and connect the positive
lead of an accurate tachometer to the brown wire
terminal in the wiring connector.
(3) Connect the negative lead to a good earthing
point.
TO CHECK AND ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
( 1 ) Connect an accurate tachometer and timing
light to the engine as previously described.
View showing the location of the diagnostic link
connector. Passengers seat removed for clarity.
Inset shows the diagnostic link connector terminal
identification.
(2) Start the engine and allow it to reach normal
operating temperature. (3) Connect a jumper lead between terminals A
and B on the diagnostic link connector. (4) With the engine idling at the specified speed,
check the ignition timing with the timing light.
Correct timing exists when the marks on the
crankshaft pulley are aligned with the pointer on the
inner timing cover.
Page 34 of 238
Roadside Trouble Shooting
ing the wiring from any component, ensure
that the ignition switch is off and the
negative battery terminal is disconnected to
prevent damage to the solid state circuitry.
(4) Open the electrode gap of a serviceable spark
plug to 6 mm. Securely earth the plug using a jumper
lead or by tying the plug to an earthed engine
component.
(5) Disconnect the high tension lead from a
spark plug and connect it to the test spark plug.
(6) Have an assistant operate the starter motor.
(7) Check that a spark, if any, jumps the gap on
the test spark plug. If the spark is satisfactory, proceed to operation
(8).
If there is no spark, proceed as follows:
(a) Check the high tension leads to ensure that
they are dry and that the insulation is not cracked or
perished. Check the ends of the leads for burning. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance in
each high tension lead. The resistance should be no
more than 15 000 ohms per lead.
(b) Check the distributor cap to ensure that it is
dry and clean. Examine both the inside and outside of
the cap for cracks or tracki ng, particularly between the
high tension lead segments.
Check that the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap interior fa ce is clean and dry and
ensure that the brush moves freely in and out of its
locating hole.
(c) Check the rotor arm for cracks, deposits and
burning on the metal arm. (d) Ensure that the high tension leads have dry.
clean and secure connections on the distributor cap. (8) If the above checks r esult in a good spark at
the spark plug high tension leads but the engine is still
not operating satisfac torily, remove all the spark plugs
and check the condition and electrode gap as de-
scribed in the Engine Tune-up section under the
appropriate heading.
3. TO CHECK FUEL SYSTEM
Due to the complex nature of the EFI system, it is
recommended that should the following checks prove
satisfactory but the engine fail to start, reference be
made to the Fuel and Engine Management section of
this manual or a Nissan workshop be consulted.
(1) Check that the fuel tank contains a reason-
able amount of fuel. (2) Have an assistant switch the ignition on and
off while squeezing the fuel supply hose with the
fingers. If the fuel pump is operating it should be
possible to feel the fuel pr essure increase for approx-
imately two seconds.
NOTE: When conducting the above test it
should be possible to hear the fuel pump and
ignition relays clicking when the ignition is
switched on and off
If the fuel pump relay fails, power will be
supplied to the fuel pump via the oil pressure
Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking between the terminals. Squeeze the fuel supply hose while the ignition is
switched On. An increase in pressure should be felt.
Check the spark plug high tension leads for cracks and
burnt or corroded terminals.
Page 35 of 238
Roadside Trouble Shooting 35
View showing the location of the fuel pump fuse and the EGI and fuel pump relays.
switch. When starting the engine, the fuel
pump will not operate until the oil pressure
is sufficient to extinguish the oil pressure
warning lamp. Therefore it will be necessary
to operate the starter motor for a longer
period than usual to start the engine.
(3) If the fuel pump cannot be felt operating,
check the fuel pump fuse located in the fuse panel
adjacent to the steering column.
If the fuel pump fuse is serviceable, refer to the
Fuel and Engine Management section for detailed
tests on the fuel pump.
(4) Check that all fuel hose connections are
secure.
(5) Remove the spark plugs and check for petrol
saturation of the electrodes which indicates flooding.
Thoroughly clean and dry the spark plugs before
replacement. Fully depress the throttle pedal and turn the
ignition switch to the start position. If the engine does
not start, proceed as follows.
Check that the MAP sensor hose is not blocked or split
and ensure that all electrical connections are clean and
secure.
If flooding persists, refer to the Fuel and Engine
Management section.
(6) Check that all EFI electrical wiring connec-
tors are clean and secure.
(7) Check that the MAP sensor vacuum hose is
securely connected at each end and is not split or
blocked.
4. TO CHECK MECHANICAL SYSTEM
The following check procedure assumes that the
starter motor will rotate the engine. If not, on manual
transaxle models, depress the clutch pedal to disen-
gage the engine from the tr ansaxle in case the fault lies
within the transaxle.
If the starter motor will not rotate the engine, it
will be necessary to remove the starter motor and
attempt to turn the engine over manually. This will
establish whether the fault lies with the starter motor,
which could be jammed or defective, or with the
engine, which could be seized or have broken internal
components such as connecting rods, pistons and
crankshafts etc.
If the starter motor is not at fault and the engine
will not rotate manually, refer to the Engine Mechan-
ical Trouble Shooting heading in the Engine section.
It should be noted that the only way that cylinder
compression can be accurately tested is with a com-
pression gauge. The method described in the following
procedure is only intended to give a rough indication
when checking for causes of engine breakdown,
(I) When the engine is cool, check for loss of
coolant from the cooling system.
If coolant loss is evident, check carefully for any
indication of external leakage. Remove the engine oil
dipstick and check for wate r contamination (emulsi-
fication) of the oil. When oil mixes with water it will
Ensure that all fuel connections are securely tightened.
Page 36 of 238
36 Roadside Trouble Shooting
Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the dipstick.
turn creamy. The oil level will also have increased. If
the oil is emulsified, proceed to operation (5).
(2) Remove the fusible link that is positioned
third from the front of th e fusible link connection
block, located at the rear of the battery. Disconnect
the coil high tension lead from the coil. (3) Remove all of the spark plugs except one.
(4) Have an assistant operate the ignition switch
to rotate the engine and listen to the sound made by
the engine as it is being turned over. Move the spark
plug to a different cylinder and repeat the lest. By performing the same test on all cylinders, a
rough comparison can be made to determine if there
is any loss of compression in any cylinder. This will be
apparent by the different sound made by the engine as
it is being turned over.
Normally, if the compression is satisfactory the
cylinder with the spark plug installed will create a
resistance to the rotating engine.
However, if the compression is low in a particular
cylinder, the engine will tu rn over easily and smoothly
when that spark plug is in place.
(5) If the above checks show a loss of coolant
which is present in the engine oil or on the spark plug,
one or more of the following faults may be the cause:
Blown cylinder head gasket.
Cracked cylinder or cylinder head.
If the compression check showed any weak or
inconsistent compressions, in addition to the above
faults any of the following could also be the cause:
Broken piston{s)
Burnt or broken valve(s).
Provided the previous checks do not indicate an
View showing the location of the fusible links.
internal leakage of coolant, proceed with the follow-
ing:
(6) Remove the distributor cap and, with the aid
of an assistant operating th e starter motor, check that
the rotor arm rotates as the engine turns over. (7) Remove the camshaft hous ing top cover and.
again with an assistant operating the ignition switch,
check that all the valves open and close as the engine
turns over.
If the rotor arm or valves do not operate with
engine rotation, one of the following faults may be the
cause:
Rotor arm does not turn but valves operate:
Distributor drive shaft broken.
Rotor arm and valves do not operate: Broken
camshaft drive belt. Sheare d crankshaft timing gear
drive key. Sheared camshaft liming gear drive dowel.
Provided that all the previous checks have been
performed correctly and the operator is satisfied that
none of the components are at fault, all that remains
is for the ignition and valve timing to be checked. It
should be noted, however, that if loss of valve timing
proves to be the fault, th e cause of this occurrence
must be sought and rectified.
(8) In order to check the valve timing it will be
necessary to remove the distributor cap and the
camshaft housing top cover and turn the engine
clockwise via the crankshaft pulley until No. 1 piston
is at TDC on the compression stroke. In this position
the valves of No. 1 cylinder should be closed, the
valves of No. 4 should be rocking and the distributor
rotor should be pointing to the No. 1 high tension lead
segment in the distributor cap.
Page 38 of 238
38 Engine
*Piston skirt to cylinder bore clearance:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 020-0.040 mm
1.8 liter .....................................0. 010-0.030 mm
Gudgeon pin length:
1.6 liter ...................................................... 53 mm
1.8 liter .................................................. 61.5 mm
Gudgeon pin diameter.................20.990-20.995 mm
Gudgeon pin clearance in piston:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 010-0.020 mm
1.8 liter ..................................0. 0055-0.0115 mm
Gudgeon pin offset in piston:
1.6 liter......... 0.35-0.65 mm towards thrust side
1.8 liter................... 0.8 mm towards thrust side
*Measured 9 mm from the bottom of the piston skirt
for 1.6 liter models and 6 mm from the bottom of the
piston skirt for 1.8 liter models.
PISTON RINGS
Rings per piston:
Compression .......................................................2
Oil contro l .......................................................... 1
End gap:
Compression ................................ 0.30-0.50 mm
Oil control —
1.6 liter ......................................... 0.33-1.10 mm
1.8 liter ......................................... 0.40-1.40 mm
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
Connecting rod side clearance............ 0.07-0.24 mm
Maximum connecting rod weight variation..8 grams
Crankpin bearing oil clearance ....... 0. 019-0.063 mm
CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS
Number of bearings .................................................. 5
End float taken at ...................... No. 3 main bearing
End float .......................................... 0.070-0.302 mm
Bend limit ...................................................0.03 mm
Main bearing oil clearance .............0. 015-0.040 mm
Main bearing journal diameter.. .57.982-57.995 mm
Crankpin diameter .......................48.971-48.987 mm
FLYWHEEL
Ring gear run out limit.................................. 0.3 mm
Clutch face regrind limit .............................. 0.3 mm
CAMSHAFT
Drive ...................................................... Toothed belt
End float .............................................. 0.04-0.14 mm
Bend limit ................................................... 0.03 mm
Bearings ...........................................Direct in housing
Journal diameter:
Standard —
No. 1 ..................................... 42. 455-42.470 mm
No. 2 ..................................... 42. 705-42.720 mm
No. 3 ..................................... 42.955-42.970 mm
No. 4 ..................................... 43.205-43.220 mm
No. 5 ..................................... 43.455-43.470 mm
Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.355-42.370 mm
No. 2 ......................................42.605-42.620 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.855-42.880 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.105-43.120 mm
No. 5 .....................................43. 355-43.370 mm
*An undersize camshaft can be identified by a violet
flash between the inlet and exhaust lobes of No. 2
cylinder.
Housing diameter;
Standard —
No. 1 .....................................42. 500-42.525 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.750-42.775 mm
No. 3 .....................................43.000-43.025 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.250-43.275 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.500-43.525 mm
*Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.400-42.425 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.650-42.675 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.900-42.925 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.150-43.175 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.400-43.425 mm
*An undersize camshaft housing can be identified by
a violet flash on the centre camshaft bearing support.
LUBRICATION
Oil pump type .......................................Involute gear
Filter type................................... Full flow disposable
Oil pressure at 4 000 rpm .....................480-620 kPa
Rotor assembly end float .................. 0.03-0. 010 mm
Rotor teeth backlash ......................... 0.010-0.20 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
*Cylinder head bolts:
Initial torque ............................................. 25 Nm
1st stage ......................................... + 60 degrees
2nd stage ........................................ + 60 degrees
3rd stage......................................... + 60 degrees
4th stage, engine at operating
temperature .............................. + 30-50 degrees
Exhaust manifold nuts .................................... 22 Nm
Exhaust manifold flange nuts ......................... 22 Nm
Inlet manifold nuts.......................................... 22 Nm
Throttle body to inlet manifold nuts ..............12 Nm
Camshaft liming gear bolt ...............................45 Nm
Camshaft retainin g plate bolts ......................... 7 Nm
Camshaft cover bolts......................................... 8 Nm
Thermostat cover bolts ....................................15 Nm
*Main bearing bolts..................60 Nm + 45 degrees
Connecting rod bearing
cap nuts ................................... 35 Nm + 45 degrees
* Crankshaft timing
gear bolt.................................. 145 Nm + 35 degrees
*Flywheel bolts
(microencapsulated) ................ 60 Nm + 30 degrees
*Drive plate bolts (microencapsulated)........... 60 Nm
Water pump bolts............................................ 25 Nm
Page 39 of 238
Engine 39
Oil pump cover plate screws............................ 6 Nm
Oil pump mounting bolts.................................. 6 Nm
Oil pump pickup bolts
(coat with Loctite 242)..................................... 8 Nm
Sump bolts (coat with Loctite 242) .................. 5 Nm
Sump drain plug .............................................. 35 Nm
*Use new bolts
Head bolts maximum torque 135 Nm
1. ENGINE MECHANICAL TROUBLE
SHOOTING
ENGINE MISSES AT IDLING SPEED
NOTE: For other causes of engine misfire,
refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section.
(1) Blown head gasket: Check the cylinder com-
pressions and renew the he ad gasket as necessary.
(2) Burnt valves or seats in the cylinder head:
Check the cylinder compressions and overhaul the
cylinder head as necessary. (3) Broken or worn piston rings: Check the
cylinder compressions and renew the piston rings as
necessary.
(4) Weak or broken valve springs: Remove the
camshaft housing top cover and check the condition
of the valve springs. (5) Air leak at the inlet manifold gasket; Check
for air leaks by applying oil around the manifold
joints. Renew the gasket if an air leak is evident.
NOTE: Use a compre ssion gauge and check
the compression pressure in each cylinder as
described in the Engine Tune-up section. If
a low pressure reading is indicated in one or
more cylinders, remove the cylinder head for
gasket and valve inspection. Should the
gasket and valves prove satisfactory, inspect
the cylinder bores, pistons and rings.
Check for air leaks at the inlet manifold
by applying engine oil around the manifold
joints. If the oil can be seen or heard sucking
into the manifold or excessive smoke begins
to issue from the exhaust system, there is an
air leak at the inlet manifold.
NOISY VALVE OPERATION
(1) Faulty hydraulic tappets: Renew the faulty
tappet assemblies. (2) Weak or broken valve springs: Remove the
camshaft housing top cover and check the condition
of the valve springs. (3) Worn valve guides: Overhaul the cylinder
head as described in this section. (4) Worn rocker gear: Remove (he rocker gear
and check the components for wear.
Camshaft lobe wear is also a cause of noisy valve
operation.
BIG END BEARING NOISE
(1) Inadequate oil supply: Check the oil level in
the sump and the condition of the oil pump and relief
valve. Renew the oil filter.
(2) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells, check and regrind the big end journals if
oval or tapered. (3) Thin oil or oil diluted by petrol or water:
Change to the correct oil grade. Check and rectify the
cause of the oil dilution. Ch eck that the engine is not
operating in overheat conditions.
(4) Low oil pressure: Check the engine oil level.
Check the pressure relief valve and spring and the oil
filter bypass valve. (5) Misaligned big end bearings: Align the con-
necting rods and renew the big end bearing shells.
NOTE: Big end bearing noise is indicated
by a metallic knock wh ich is usually loudest
at approximately 60 km/h with the throttle
Air leaks at the inlet manifold can be located by
applying engine oil around the suspect joints.
Page 40 of 238
40 Engine
Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the dipstick.
dosed. Before dismantling the engine to
inspect the big ends check the engine oil for
correct level and dilution on the dipstick.
Also, remove the oil pressure sender unit
and connect an oil pressure gauge into the
oil gallery to check the oil pressure readings.
MAIN BEARING NOISE (APPARENT)
(1) Loose flywheel: Tighten the flywheel securing
bolls to the specified torque. (2) Low oil pressure: Check the bearing to
journal clearance. Check the condition of the oil
pump and pressure relief valve. Recondition the oil
pump as necessary. (3) Excessive crankshaft end float: Renew the
main bearings. (4) Crankshaft journals out of round and exces-
sive bearing to journal clear ance: Regrind the journals
and renew the bearings (undersize).
(5) Insufficient oil supply: Replenish the oil in
the sump to the correct level.
NOTE: Main bearing noise is indicated by a
heavy but dull knock when the engine is
under load. A loose flywheel is indicated by
a thud or dull click when the ignition is
turned off. It is us ually accompanied by
vibration.
Crankshaft end float noise is indicated by
a sharp rap at idle speed. The crankshaft
can be readily checked for excessive end
float by levering the crankshaft backwards
and forwards.
If the oil pressure is not satisfactory,
remove the main bearing caps and assess
the bearing clearance using the Plastigage
method as described in this section. Ovality
and wear on the main bearing journals can
only be checked with a micrometer after the
crankshaft has been removed.
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
(1) Oil leaks: Check and renew the engine gas-
kets or seals as necessary.
(2) Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals:
Dismantle the cylinder head and renew the damaged
or worn oil seals. (3) Excessive valve stem to valve guide clear-
ance: Ream the valve guides and renew the valves as
necessary. (4) Worn or broken piston rings: Renew the
piston rings on all pistons. (5) Rings too tight or stuck in the grooves:
Renew the rings and clean the ring grooves.
(6) Excessive wear in the cylinders, pistons and
rings: Recondition the cylinders and renew the pistons
and rings. (7) Compression rings incorrectly installed. Oil
rings clogged or broken: Renew the piston rings.
NOTE: Before checking the engine for oil
leaks the engine should be completely de-
greased and cleaned. Run the engine at
operating temperature for a period and
visually check for oil leakage. By placing
white paper on the floor directly beneath the
engine any excessive leak can be readily
pinpointed.
Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals
which allow oil to be drawn down past the
valve stems into the combustion chambers
can be diagnosed by allowing the engine to
idle for a few minutes and then opening the
throttle. If oil is being drawn past the valve
stems a heavy discharge of blue smoke will
be seen at the tailpipe.
Piston, ring and cylinder bore troubles are
normally accompanied by a loss of compres-
sion. Cylinder compression can only be
accurately assessed by using a compression
gauge.
Run the engine over white paper to check for oil leaks.
Page 41 of 238
Engine 41
DROP IN OIL PRESSURE
(1) Oil level low in the sump: Check and replen-
ish the oil to the full mark on the dipstick.
(2) Thin or diluted oil: Change to the correct oil
grade and rectify the source of dilution. (3) Oil pump relief valve stuck or spring broken;
Free up the relief valve or renew the broken relief
valve spring. (4) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells or recondition the crankshaft journals as
necessary.
(5) Excessive wear of the oil pump components:
Renew or recondition the oil pump.
NOTE: If the vehicle is not equipped with an
oil pressure gauge re move the oil sender unit
and connect a pressure gauge into the oil
gallery. Check the oil pressure with the
engine cold and hot. If the oil pump or relief
valve are faulty. low pressure will be indi-
cated with the engine both hot and cold.
However, if the bearings are at fault a fairly
high oil pressure will be indicated when the
engine is cold, but a marked drop in pressure
will occur when the engine is hot.
ENGINE WILL NOT ROTATE
(1) Starter motor drive jammed: Remove the
starter motor. Check and renew the damaged drive
and/or flywheel ring gear.
(2) Engine overheated an d seized: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Check and renew any damaged
components. See the following note.
(3) Water in the cylinder due to a blown head
gasket or cracked cylinder block or head: Remove the
cylinder head. If the gasket is blown, check for
cylinder block and head distortion and reface if
necessary. Renew the cylinder head and/or cylinder
block if cracked.
(4) Broken crankshaft, connecting rod. piston
etc. due to overheating, fatigue etc: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Examine and renew any com-
ponents as necessary. (5) Valve head broken off due to overheating,
fatigue etc: Remove the cylinder head and check the
head, piston and cylinder bore for damage. Repair or
renew as necessary.
NOTE: Invariably when an engine seizes
because of overheating due to lack of oil
and/or water, damage is done to the bear-
ings, pistons etc. Although there may be
instances where an engine will start and run
after it has cooled down and the oil and
water have been replenished, it will usually
be found that oil consumption increases, oil
pressure decreases and the engine will be
noisier, depending on the degree of damage.
When a cylinder head gasket blows allow-
ing water into the cylinders, or compression
loss between the cylinders, it is essential to
check the gasket faces on the cylinder block
and head for distortion. Sufficient water can
enter a cylinder because of a blown head
gasket, cracked cylinder or head to prevent
an engine from rotating.
This is normally preceded by difficult
starting, misfiring, excessive steam from the
exhaust and loss of water from the radiator.
Frequent jamming of the starter motor
drive with the flywheel ring gear can be due
to a bent starter armature shaft or damaged
teeth on the drive and/or ring gear. With the
starter motor removed, the flywheel ring
gear teeth can be examined through the
starter motor mounting aperture. Renewal
of the ring gear requires removal of the
transaxle, clutch and flywheel on manual
transaxle models and the removal of the
transaxle and drive plate on automatic
transaxle models. To check for a bent arma-
ture shaft, rotate the shaft by hand while
holding the end in close proximity to a fixed
object.
2. DESCRIPTION
The 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines are basically identi-
cal in design.
Both engines share the same stroke. The 1.8 liter
engine has a larger bore thus giving it increased
capacity.
The engine is a four cylinder, inline, overhead
camshaft design transversely mounted in the front of
the vehicle.
The camshaft runs in five integral support bear-
ings in the camshaft housing which in turn is mounted
directly on to the cylinder head and retained by the
cylinder head bolts.
Camshaft end float is controlled by a retaining
plate engaged in a groove machined in the rear
camshaft journal. The camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft timing gear vi a a reinforced rubber belt.
The aluminum cross flow cylinder head houses
the tappets, rocker arms a nd valve assemblies. An oil
pressure relief valve is installed to the cylinder head to
maintain oil pressure to the hydraulic tappets at a
predetermined setting.
The exhaust valve springs are equipped with
rotators mounted below the valve springs which rotate
the exhaust valve assemblies. The rocker arms pivot
on hydraulic tappet assemblies and locate in notched
lash pads mounted on the valve stems. The camshaft
lobes bear directly onto the rocker arms and due to
the characteristics of the hydraulic tappet assemblies,
no provision is made for tappet clearance adjustment.
Page 42 of 238
42 Engine
The cylinder block is a cast iron alloy, deep skirt
design and the crankshaft is supported in the cylinder
block by five precision insert replaceable main bear-
ings. Crankshaft end float is controlled by the flanged
centre main bearing. Connecting rods are I section
forgings equipped with precision insert replaceable big
end bearings. The gudgeon pins are an interference fit
in the connecting rod and a floating fit in the piston.
The cast aluminum pistons are equipped with
two compression rings and one oil control ring.
The twin rotor, involute gear oil pump is mounted
directly to the front face of the cylinder block. The
inner rotor is internally driven by the crankshaft. The
oil pump pressure relief valve is not adjustable, and
consists of a plunger and spring mounted in the oil
pump body.
The pump draws oil through a screen in the sump
and delivers it, via a full flow replaceable oil filter, to
the oil gallery from where it is distributed to the
hydraulic tappets, camshaft and crankshaft bearings
and to the overhead rocker and valve mechanism.
3. ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Instill — Suitable lifting tackle,
extra long chassis stands, suitable trolley
TO REMOVE
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurize the system before removing any
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Mark around the bonnet hinges with a soft
lead pencil Co facilitate correct installation. With the
aid of an assistant, remove the bonnet retaining bolts
and remove the bonnet from the vehicle.
(3) Drain the engine and transaxle lubricant.
(4) Open the coolant drain tap located on the
lower radiator pipe and drain the coolant. (5) Loosen the hose clips and disconnect the
heater hoses from the heater pipes at the bulkhead.
NOTE: Do not use excessive force to remove
the heater hoses from the heater pipes or the
heater core will become dislodged from the
heater unit. If necessary, cut the heater
hoses from the pipes using a sharp knife.
(6) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
radiator hoses from the engine assembly. (7) Disconnect the positive lead from the bat-
tery. (8) On 1.8 liter models, disconnect the air inlet
duct.
(9) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
assembly. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section if necessary. (10) Disconnect the throttle cable from the throt-
tle body and from the camshaft housing top cover
bracket, if applicable. (11) Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.
Mark the hoses as an aid to installation. (12) Suitably mark and disconnect the charcoal
canister hoses. (13) Disconnect the injector wires from the injec-
tors. On 1.6 liter models, slide the wiring out from the
throttle body. (14) Disconnect the wiring fr om the throttle po-
sition sensor (TPS), idle air control (IAC) valve,
oxygen (O
2) sensor wire, coolant temperature sensor,
coolant sender and on 1.8 liter models, the manifold
air temperature (MAT) sensor. (15) Disconnect the wiring connector adjacent to
the top heater hose, the wiring from the alternator and
the two earth wires from underneath the cylinder head
bolts. (16) Lay the wiring loom over on the passenger
side of the engine compar tment, clear of the work
area.
(17) On manual transaxle models, loosen the
clutch cable adjusting nuts and remove the cable
through the slot in the lever. Remove the clutch cable
bracket from the transaxle after removing the retain-
ing bolts and place the cable to one side.
(18) Disconnect the wiring from the starter mo-
tor, speedometer sender and on manual transaxle
models, the reverse lamp switch wiring.
(19) If applicable, disconnect the power steering
lines from the pump and drain the fluid into a
container. Suitably plug the lines and the pump to
prevent the entry of dirt.
(20) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the selector cable and bracket from the transaxle
assembly.
Disconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines from the
transaxle. Plug the lines and fittings to prevent the
entry of dirt etc.
(21) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front
of the vehicle and support it on extra long chassis
stands. Ensure that the vehicle is high enough to allow
removal of the engine from underneath. (22) Remove the front wheels and the engine
splash guards from the vehicle.
(23) On manual transaxle models, remove the
stay rod and control rod bolts and nuts and disconnect
the rods from the transaxle.
(24) Remove the lower control arm to steering
knuckle ball joint nuts and separate the ball joints
from the steering knuckle by holding a dolly or a
hammer against one side of the steering knuckle and
hitting the other side with a hammer. The taper on the
ball joint will release fr om the steering knuckle.
(25) Pull the steering knuckles outward swiftly to