service NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 159 of 238
Front Suspension 159
(4) Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle
and tighten the castellated nut securely. Install a
new
split pin.
(5) Install the brake disc to the hub.
(6) Install the brake caliper to the steering
knuckle and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. (7) Install the hub nut and washer to the
drive
shaft and with the aid of an assistant applying the
brakes, tighten the hub nut to the specified torque. (8) Install the hub nut retainer and a new
split
pin to the drive shaft. (9) Check the hub end float as described later in
this section. (10) Install the fron t wheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
TO DISMANTLE
NOTE: The front wheel bearing assembly is
non-serviceable. If the wheel bearing is dis-
mantled for any reason it should be re-
newed.
(1) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehi-
cle as previously described. (2) Hold the steering knuckle assembly in a vice
with soft jaw guards. (3) Using a hammer and a suitable pipe or tube
that pushes on the inside of the hub, drive out the
wheel hub and outside inner race from the steering
knuckle assembly. (4) Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring
that retains the outer bearing race from the wheel side
of the steering knuckle. (5) Using a suitable press and press plates,
support the steering knuckle with the outside face
downwards. To aid in dismantling, position the inside
inner race in the bearing and press the assembly from
the steering knuckle. Discard the bearing assembly. (6) Using a bearing puller and a press, remove
the inner race from the hub assembly. If the inner race cannot be removed from the hub
in this manner, it may be necessary to grind the race
using an angle grinder and split the race using a cold
chisel.
(7) Thoroughly clean and dry the steering
knuckle and hub in a suitable solvent. (8) Inspect all the components for wear, damage
and cracks and renew if necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Apply grease to the oil seal lips of the new
bearing assembly.
NOTE: Ensure that (he inside of the outer
race of the bearing is precoated with wheel
bearing grease. If necessary, pack the outer
race of the wheel bearing with wheel bearing
grease after it is installed to the steering
knuckle.
(2) Using the press and press plates, support the
steering knuckle with the outside face uppermost.
Using a suitable diameter steel tube that contacts on
the outer race only, press the outer race full into the
steering knuckle.
(3) Install the snap ring to the groove in the
steering knuckle.
(4) Install the inner races to the steering
knuckle
and support the inner race on the press using a
suitable tube or mandrel. (5) Using the press and a suitable tube press the
hub assembly into the steerin g knuckle. When using
the press ensure that the pressing force does not
exceed 29 kN. (6) With the press exerting a force of 44.1 kN
rotate the steering knuckle from side to side several
turns to ensure that the wh eel bearings are operating
smoothly.
(7) Install the steering knuckle to the vehicle
as
previously described.
TO CHECK HUB END FLOAT
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheel.
(2) Mount the dial gauge on the steering knuckle
so that the dial gauge plunger is against the wheel hub.
(3) Zero the dial gauge and attempt to move the
hub in and out. Total hub e nd float should not exceed
0.05 mm. (4) Renew the wheel bearing as previously de-
scribed if necessary.
4. SUSPENSION UNIT
Special Equipment Required:
To Dismantle — Spring compressor
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the front wheels.
Dismantled view of the steering knuckle and hub
components.
Page 162 of 238
162 Front Suspension
the ball joint or bushes as described later in this
section.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) When installing the control arm bush
bracket, ensure that the protrusion on the bracket is
towards the inside of the vehicle.
(2) Do not fully tighten the control arm bush
bolts and through bolt nut until the curb weight of the
vehicle is on the suspension.
NOTE: Curb weight is with the vehicle
unladen except for a full tank of fuel and
normal amounts of oil and water and with
the spare lyre, jack and hand tools in their
normal positions.
(3) Tighten the ball joint nut to the specified
torque and retain with a new split pin.
TO CHECK AND RENEW BALL JOINT
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Install the ball joint nut and turn the ball
joint at least ten revolutions to ensure that the ball
joint is correctly seated. (3) Using a spring scale with the hook placed
over the split pin hole, check the ball joint swinging
torque. A new ball joint should measure 15.7-80.4 N
and a used ball joint should measure 7.8-80.4 N.
Renew the ball joint if necessary. (4) Using a small torque wrench or preload
gauge, measure the force requi red to rotate the ball
joint. A new ball joint should measure between
1.0-4.9 Nm and a used ball joint should measure
between 0.5-4.9 Nm. Renew the ball joint if neces-
sary.
(5) To renew the ball joint, remove the snap ring
from the stud end of the ball joint using snap ring
pliers. (6) Support the control arm in a press, ball joint
stud uppermost, with a suitable tube that is large
enough for the ball joint to pass through. (7) Press the ball joint out from the control arm.
(8) Press a new ball joint into the control arm
using a suitable tube that pushes on the outer circum-
ference of the joint only.
(9) Install the snap ring and install the
control
arm to the vehicle as previously described.
TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSHES
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described. Mark the position of the rear
control arm bush. (2) To remove the rear control arm bush use a
bearing puller and a press. When installing the bush
use a suitable tube that pushes on the inner edge of the
bush only. NOTE: Ensure that the bush is installed
with the flat portion in its original location.
(3)
To remove the front control arm bush use a
suitable tube that pushes on the outer circumference
of the bush and a split tu be supporting the control
arm. (4) After the bush has been pressed out approx-
imately half way, cut the protruding part of the bush
using a hacksaw. Cutting the bush in this way will
allow removal.
(5) Support the control arm and push the new
bush in from the outside using a suitable tube that
pushes on the outer circumference only. (6) Install the control ar m to the vehicle as
previously described.
6. STABILISER BAR
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands.
(2) Remove the bolts at the flexible joint retain-
ing the front engine pipe to the exhaust pipe located
below the stabilizer bar. (3) Remove the bolt from the exhaust pipe
mounting below the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the
exhaust pipe at the flexible joint and allow the front of
the pipe to hang down. (4) Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retaining
bolts and remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the
vehicle. (5) Remove the stabilizer bar lower link nuts
from each control arm. When removing the lower nuts
it may be necessary to hold the upper nuts with a
spanner.
(6) Maneuver the stabilizer bar from the
vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Ensure that the stabilizer bar mounting rub-
bers are in a serviceable condition and secure in the
mounting brackets.
Dismantled view of one end of the stabilizer bar.
Page 163 of 238
Front Suspension 163
(2) Ensure that the stabilizer bar links are in
good condition. Renew if necessary.
(3) When installing the stabilizer bar ensure that
the links are installed perpendicular to the control arm
with the ball joint socket face parallel to the end of the
stabilizer bar. (4) Ensure that the brackets are installed with
the flat portion facing towards the front of the vehicle.
Tighten the retaining bolts securely.
7. SUSPENSION AND STEERING ANGLES
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Extensive knowledge and special-
ised equipment are required to measure and
correct the suspension and steering angles
with the exception of the front wheel toe in.
Therefore, as it is not a viable proposition
for the average person to carry out a com-
plete wheel alignment, the vehicle should be
taken to a wheel alignment specialist.
Prior to carrying out a wheel alignment, a thor-
ough inspection of the steering linkage, front hub
bearings, ball joints and suspension units should be
carried out. Faulty components should be renewed or
repaired as necessary.
The tread of the front ti res should be examined
for excessive or uneven wear as certain conditions of
tire wear are indicative of damaged or worn compo-
nents in the suspension, stee ring linkage and/or wheels
and bearings. Refer to the heading Tire Wear Trouble
Shooting in the Wheels and Tires section. If the tires
are found to be defective, renew them with serviceable
lyres.
TO CHECK AND ADJUST TOE IN/OUT
NOTE: The vehicle s hould be unladen ex-
cept for the normal amount of fuel and with
the tires inflated to the correct pressures.
(1) With the vehicle on a level floor, raise the
front of the vehicle and s upport it on chassis stands.
(2) Spin each front wheel in turn and using a
piece of chalk, mark a line around the periphery of
each tire as near to the centre as possible. (3) Lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce
the front several times to stabilize the suspension. (4) Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
(5) Mark the centre chalk line on both tires at a
point approximately 200 mm above the floor and
forward of the suspension. (6) Using a tape measure, measure and record
the distance between the two marked points on the
tire centers.
Diagram indicating the front wheel toe in. Refer to
Specifications for the correct difference between
measurement A and B.
(7) Maintaining the wheels in the straight ahead
position, roll the vehicle forward until the marks are
the same distance from the floor but to the rear of the
suspension. (8) Again using the tape measure, measure and
record the distance between the marks on the tires.
(9) The difference between the front and rear
measurement will give the correct toe in/out reading.
If the larger measurement is at the front, the wheels
are in a toe out position. If the reverse is true, the
wheels are in toe in position. Compare the reading
obtained with the figure given in Specifications.
(10) If adjustment of the to e in/out is necessary,
loosen the tie rod locknuts on both sides. (11) Remove the retaining clips from the small
end of the steering rack rubber boots. (12) Turn the tie rods as required until the correct
toe in/out reading is obtained.
NOTE: It is important to turn each tie rod
equally to maintain the central position of
the steering gear. Ensure that the lengths of
the tie rods are the same.
(13) Tighten the tie rod locknuts to the specified
torque without changing the positions of the adjusters.
(14) Install the retaining clips to the small end
of
the steering rack rubber boots, ensuring that the boots
are not twisted.
Page 164 of 238
164
REAR SUSPENSION
SPECIFICATIONS
Type........................... Independent MacPherson strut
Shock absorber.................... Oil filled, non-repairable
Maximum hub bearing end float ................. 0.05 mm
Rear wheel alignment:
Toe out ........................................3 mm ± 2 mm
Camber ............................................. - 1 ° ± 4 5 '
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Hub retaining nut ......................................... 255 Nm
Suspension unit retaining nuts ....................... 29 Nm
Upper mounting retaining nut ........................ 72 Nm
Suspension unit to knuckle nuts .................. 118 Nm
Control arms to knuckle nut ........................ 118 Nm
Control arms to crossmember nut ............... 118 Nm
Stabiliser bar mounting bracket bolts .......... 108 Nm
Stabiliser bar retaining nut.............................. 83 Nm
Backing plate bolts........................................... 45 Nm
1. REAR SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING
REAR END NOISE
( 1 ) Defective suspension unit or mounting: Re-
new the faulty components.
(2) Loose or worn control arm bushes or pivot
bolts: Check and tighten or renew the worn compo-
nents. (3) Broken coil spring: Renew the coil spring,
preferably in matching pairs. (4) Worn rear hub bearing: Check and renew the
hub bearing as necessary. (5) Loose or worn stabilizer bar bushes: Check
and tighten or renew the worn components.
NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the vehicle up and down
(one side at a time) and observe if the vehicle
comes to rest in a single movement If the
vehicle bounces two or three times before
coming to rest the susp ension unit is suspect.
If suspect, remove the suspension unit and
check for fractures and leaks. If the
suspension unit is found to be unserviceable,
it is good practice to install two new
suspension units as a matching pair.
To check the control arm bushes or pivot
bolts, insert a lever between the suspect unit
and its mounting and lever the unit back
and forth checking for excessive movement.
Check the coil springs visually for breaks.
If the spring is found to be unserviceable, it
is good practice to install two new coil
springs as a matching pair.
Rear hub bearing noise can be diagnosed
by raising and supporting the rear of the
vehicle, spinning one wheel at a time and
listening for a rumbling noise.
POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING ABILITY
(1) Low or uneven tire pressure: Inflate to the
recommended pressures.
(2) Incorrect rear wheel alignment: Check and
adjust the rear wheel alignment as necessary.
(3) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty
suspension unit, preferably in pairs. (4) Loose or broken stabilizer bar: Check and
tighten or renew the faulty components.
Check the stabilizer bar bushes and mounting rubbers
for wear and deterioration.
Page 165 of 238
Rear Suspension 165
Checking the rear control arm outer pivot bolt for security.
(5) Loose or worn control arm bushes or pivot
bolts: Check and tighten or renew the worn compo-
nents.
NOTE: Check the service ability of the sus-
pension units, control arm bushes and pivot
bolts as previously described.
If incorrect rear wheel alignment is sus-
pected, it is recommended that the vehicle be
taken to a wheel alignment specialist or a
Nissan dealer to be checked and if necessary
adjusted.
Visually inspect the stabilizer bar for
damage.
2. DESCRIPTION
The independent type rear suspension consists of
a suspension unit, a knuckle assembly which incorpo-
rates the stub axle, inboard control arms and a
stabilizer bar.
The suspension unit consists of a sealed, oil filled
shock absorber, enclosed at the upper end by a coil
spring on which an upper mounting assembly is
located and attached to the body.
The shock absorber piston rod is attached to the
centre of the suspension unit upper mounting assem-
bly.
The lower end of the suspension unit is attached
to the knuckle assembly to which the brake caliper
and/or the brake backing plate is mounted.
The control arms are attached to the knuckle
assembly at the outer end, and the crossmember at the
inner end.
The stabilizer bar is attached to the knuckle
assembly and mounted to the underbody. As well as
reducing body roll when cornering it also secures the
knuckle assembly, preventing fore and aft movement.
Adjustment of the toe out is provided by a
graduated cam mounted on the rear control arm inner
pivot bolt. Each graduation on the cam is equivalent
to 2 mm adjustment.
Camber is set in production and cannot be
adjusted. If the camber is not within Specifications,
inspect the suspension components and renew the
damaged or worn components as necessary.
Installed view of the rear suspension.
Page 175 of 238
Brakes 175
A pressure proportioning valve is incorporated in
each circuit to prevent premature locking of the rear
wheels during severe braking.
The four wheel hydraulically operated brakes
utilize disc brakes on each front wheel and disc brakes
or leading and trailing drum brake shoes on each rear
wheel.
The front disc brakes comprise a disc attached to
the hub assembly and a caliper bolted to the steering
knuckle.
The rear disc brakes comprise a disc and hub
assembly attached to the rear stub axle and a caliper
and anchor plate bolted to the backing plate.
The front and rear calipers are of the sliding type.
As pad wear takes place, the caliper piston is allowed
to slide outwards through the seal to take up a new
position in the caliper bore. Elastic deformation of the
seal takes place when the brakes are applied, which
returns the piston slightly when the brakes are re-
leased. Thus a constant clearance is maintained
between the pads and the disc when the brakes are in
the off position.
The disc brakes do not require periodical adjust-
ment in service to compensate for pad wear as they
are self adjusting.
The leading and trailing shoe drum brakes on the
rear wheels use a double ended wheel cylinder to
operate both brake shoes at the top. The lower end of
each brake shoe abuts a fixed anchor point. The brake
shoes are automatically adju sted when the brakes are
operated.
The handbrake operates the rear brakes via a
cable arrangement.
3. MASTER CYLINDER
Special Equipment Required:
To Install New Seals — Suitable machined drift
TO REMOVE
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times to
deplete the vacuum from the system.
(2) Raise the bonnet and install covers to
both
the front mudguards. Cover the areas of paintwork
beneath the master cylinder with absorbent cloth.
(3) Disconnect the wiring from the pressure
sensing switch. (4) Disconnect the brake pipes from the master
cylinder and plug the outlets and pipes to prevent the
loss of fluid and the ingress of dirt.
(5) Remove the nuts retaining the master cylin-
der to the brake servo unit and remove the master
cylinder from the vehicle.
TO DISMANTLE
(1) Remove the master cylinder as previously
described. (2) Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm,
drain and discard the brake fluid from the reservoir. (3) Carefully remove the reservoir from the
master cylinder by pulling it from the reservoir
retainers by hand. Remove and discard the retainers
from the master cylinder. (4) Using internal snap ring pliers, remove the
snap ring from the primary reservoir port. (5) Remove the fast fill valve assembly and the
O ring from the port. Remove and discard the valve
washer from the fast fill valve.
(6) Remove the proportioning valve plugs and
the O rings. Discard the O rings. Withdraw the springs
and valve plungers from the master cylinder. Remove
and discard the seals from the valve plungers. (7) Remove the pressure sensing switch and
lever assembly from the master cylinder. {8) Remove the cylinder end plug from the
master cylinder. Remove and discard the O ring from
the plug.
(9) Carefully tap the front of the master cylinder
vertically on a block of wo od and remove the pressure
differential pistons from the master cylinder. Remove
and discard the O rings from the pistons. (10) Push the primary piston forward in the
cylinder with a blunt rod and while holding the
pressure, remove the stop pin from the master cylin-
der.
(11) The primary piston may now be withdrawn
from the cylinder bore. The secondary piston, retainer
and spring can also be withdrawn by carefully tapping
the master cylinder on a block of wood. (12) Prise the legs of the seal retainer upwards
and remove it from the primary piston. Remove the
seal and guide. Discard the seal and retainer.
NOTE: The secondary piston must no! be
dismantled by removing the screw. This
assembly has a factory p reset length and the
screw must not be altered in service.
(13) Remove the main seal and the guide from
the front of the secondary piston. Stretch the rear seal
from the groove and remove it from the piston. Take
Installed view of the master cylinder and servo unit. Air
duct removed for clarity. 1.8 liter model.
Page 176 of 238
176 Brakes
care not to damage the piston surfaces where the inner
diameter of the piston seals locate.
(14) Remove the garter springs, back up rings,
seals and the retainer from the master cylinder, noting
the installed direction of the seals to aid assembly.
NOTE: It is important that care is taken not
to damage the bore surface or the seal
surfaces during removal of these parts. Note
the order and direction during removal,
(15) Remove the external O ring from the master
cylinder body.
TO CLEAN AND INSPECT
(1) Wash all components thoroughly in methyl-
ated spirits. Do not use petrol, kerosene or other
cleaning solvents. (2) Check the master cyli nder bore for wear,
scoring or pitting.
NOTE: Do not hone the master cylinder
bore. If the bore is pitted or worn, renew the
master cylinder as an assembly.
(3) Ensure that all the inlet and compensating
ports between the reservoir and the cylinder bore are
free of any obstructions.
(4) Discard all rubber parts and if applicable, the
piston assemblies.
NOTE: Where possible use a genuine major
repair kit which contains pre-assembled rub-
ber seals and pistons when overhauling a
master cylinder. The use of a major kit will
ensure a thorough overhaul and long service
from the unit.
TO ASSEMBLE
(1) Liberally coat the cylinder bore and all
internal parts with clean brake fluid.
NOTE: Install all parts supplied with the
repair kit.
(2) Install the seal retainer in the mouth of
the
master cylinder, small diameter first.
(3) Install the seal, in the direction rioted
on
removal, against the seal retainer, followed by the first
back up ring, large diameter first. (4) Install the garter spring against the back up
ring. Insert a machined drift into the bore and lightly
push the garter spring into its locating groove. (5) Install the remaining seal, in the
direction
noted on removal, against the garter spring already
PRIMARY PISTON SEAL
BACK UP RING
Dismantled view of the master cylinder.
Page 181 of 238
Brakes 181
chor plate to the steering knuckle and slide the caliper
off the brake disc. Suspend the caliper clear of the
work area using wire or cord.
(3) Suitably mark the location of the disc in
relation to the hub.
(4) Slide the disc off the hub. If the disc is
difficult to remove, install two M8 x 1.25 mm bolts in
the disc and by alternatively tightening the bolts,
remove the disc.
Do not use a hammer to remove the disc.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
ensuring that the mating face s of the disc and hub are
clean and free from burrs and that the marks made on
removal are aligned.
To Inspect
(1) Inspect the machined faces of the disc for
scores, cracks, wear and signs of overheating. (2) Using a micrometer, measure the thickness
of the disc at several positi ons around the face of the
disc. Renew the disc if the minimum thickness is
below Specifications.
Inspect the brake discs for scoring and wear.
(3) If the disc thickness is satisfactory but the
disc is scored, machine equal amounts from the
machined face on each side of the disc, to restore the
serviceability of the disc.
NOTE: Disc machining is best entrusted to
a reliable brake specialist who can advise on
disc serviceability.
6. REAR DISC BRAKES
Special Equipment Required:
To Check Disc Runout — Dial gauge
To Check Disc Thickness — Micrometer
TO CHECK AND RENEW BRAKE PADS
( 1 ) Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it on
chassis stands. Remove the rear wheels.
Renew the rear brake pads if the friction material is less
than 2 mm thick.
(2) Inspect the brake pads on both sides of the
vehicle. If the friction material on one or more of the
pads is less than 2 mm thick or contaminated with
fluid or grease, renew the brake pad as a set as follows.
NOTE: If the brake pads are contaminated
trace and rectify the cause prior to installing
the new set of pads.
(3) Drain approximately two thirds of the brake
fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. This can be
done by loosening the bleeder valve on the caliper and
allowing the fluid to drai n into a container. Discard
this fluid.
NOTE: Do not drain all the fluid from the
reservoir otherwise it will be necessary to
bleed the hydraulic system. The fluid is
drained from the reservoir to prevent over-
flow when the caliper piston is pushed back
into the caliper bore to facilitate pad re-
newal.
(4) Remove the guide bolts and lift the caliper
body clear of the disc.
NOTE: Do not allow the caliper to hang on
the brake hose.
(5) Noting the installed positions, remove the
brake pads, shims and spring clips from the anchor
plate.
(6) Using a pair of long nosed pliers with the
nose located in the recesses of the piston, rotate the
piston clockwise to retract it into the cylinder body.
Align the recesses between the brake pad retaining
lugs on the caliper body. Refer to the illustration. (7) If necessary, check the disc runout and
thickness as described under the Brake Disc heading.
(8) Ensure that the guide bolts move freely in the
caliper body and that the dust boots are in good
condition.
Page 184 of 238
184 Brakes
than 0.05 mm. If the wheel hub end float exceeds
Specifications, the bearing must be renewed as de-
scribed in the Rear Suspension section.
(3) Position the dial gauge plunger against the
centre of the brake disc contact area. Rotate the hub
and measure the runout. Ma ximum allowable runout
is 0.07 mm. (4) If the runout exceeds the specified amount,
machine or renew the brake disc. (5) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. (6) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
To Remove and Install
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Remove the clip securing the brake hose to
the suspension unit and disengage the hose. (3) Remove the bolts retaining the caliper an-
chor plate. (4) Slide the caliper from the brake disc and
suspend the caliper clear of the work area using wire
or cord.
NOTE: Do not allow the caliper to hang on
the brake hose.
(5) Remove the grease cap from the rear hub.
(6) Remove the split pin, nut retainer, hub nut
and washer from the stub axle. (7) Remove the hub assembly from the stud
axle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Tighten the rear hub to the specified torque.
(2) Install the brake caliper and tighten all the
bolts to the specified torque. (3) Rotate the hub and check for roughness. If
the hub does not rotate smoothly, renew the hub
bearing as described in the Rear Suspension section. (4) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
(5) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
To Inspect
(1) Inspect the machined faces of the disc for
scores, cracks, wear and signs of overheating. (2) Using a micrometer, measure the thickness
of the disc at several posit ions around the face of the
disc. Renew the disc if the minimum thickness is
below Specifications.
(3) If the disc thickness is satisfactory but the
disc is scored, machine equal amounts from the
machined face on each side of the disc, to restore the
serviceability of the disc.
Inspect the machined faces of the disc for scores,
cracks, wear and signs of overheating.
NOTE: Disc machining is best entrusted to
a reliable brake specialist who can advise on
disc serviceability.
7. REAR DRUM BRAKES
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove th e rear wheels and release
the handbrake.
(2) Remove the grease cap from the rear hub.
(3) Remove the split pin, nut retainer, hub nut
and washer from the stub axle. Remove the brake
drum and hub assembly.
(4) Mark each brake shoe and spring to ensure
correct assembly. (5) Rotate the star wheel until the adjuster
assembly is at its shortest length.
Installed view of the left hand side rear drum brake
components.
Page 191 of 238
Electrical System 191
This is usually accompanied by discoloura-
tion of the electrolyte.
CHARGE INDICATOR LAMP REMAINS ON
• Loose or broken alternator drive belt: Adjust
or renew the drive belt.
• Faulty regulator unit: Check and renew the
regulator unit. • Faulty alternator: Check and overhaul the
alternator. • Short to earth in the warning lamp circuit:
Check and repair the circuit.
Checking the alternator drive belt for deterioration.
CHARGE INDICATOR LAMP DOES NOT
OPERATE
• Lamp bulb blown: Check and renew the
faulty bulb. • Open circuit in the wi ring or bulb socket:
Check and rectify the open circuit. • Faulty alternator diode: Overhaul the alter-
nator.
NOISE IN DRIVE BELT OR ALTERNATOR
(1) Drive belt frayed or out of alignment with
the pulleys: Renew the drive bell or align the pulleys.
• Loose alternator moun ting bolts or worn
bearings: Tighten the mounting bolts or renew the
bearings. • Loose alternator pulley: Tighten the pulley
retaining nut.
• Faulty alternator: Overhaul or renew the
alternator. • Faulty diodes in the alternator: Overhaul the
alternator, install a new heat sink.
NOTE: To check if the noise is in the
alternator or drive belt, loosen the alternator
and remove the drive belt. If the noise is
gone when the engine is run for a short time
check the serviceability of the belt and
alternator components.
2. BATTERY AND STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
STARTER LACKS POWER TO CRANK ENGINE
(1) Battery undercharged: Check the charging
system and rectify as necessary.
Cleaning the battery terminals using a battery post
cleaner.
• Battery faulty, will not hold charge: Check
and renew the battery. • Battery leads or terminals loose or corroded:
Clean and tighten the leads or terminals.
• Faulty starter motor: Check and overhaul the
starter motor. • Faulty starter solenoid switch or contacts:
Check and renew the solenoid as necessary.
STARTER WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO CRANK
ENGINE
(1 ) Open circuit in the starting system : Check
for dirty or loose leads or terminals, dirty commuta-
tor, faulty solenoid or faulty switch. On automatic
Spin the alternator pulley over by hand to check the
bearings for noise.