checking oil NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 14 of 238
14
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
SPECIFICATIONS
CAPACITY AND GRADE
Engine:
Lubricant........................................... 15W-50 SF
Sump capacity including filter ........... 3.3 liters
Cooling system capacity............................ 6.0 liters
Manual transaxle:
Lubricant....................................... 80W-90 GL-4
Capacity ............................................... 2.7 liters
Automatic transaxle:
Lubricant.............................................. Dexron II
Capacity ............................................... 6.0 liters
Power steering:
Lubricant.............................................. Dexron II
Capacity ............................................... 1.0 liters
Manual steering lubricant ........ Castrol EPLl grease
Brake fluid type ................................................ Dot 4
1. HOW TO GREASE AND OIL CHANGE
(1) Run the front of the vehicle onto car ramps
and stop the engine. Chock the front wheels. (2) Raise the rear of the vehicle and place
chassis stands under the rear jacking points.
NOTE: It is best if the vehicle is kept as level
as possible to avoi d false readings when
checking the lubricant levels.
(3) Clean around the engine sump drain plug.
(4) Place a drain tin under the engine sump,
remove the engine sump drain plug and allow the
engine sump to completely drain.
NOTE: It is best to drain the engine sump
with the oil at operating temperature. How-
ever, if the oil is hot take care to avoid
scalding.
(5) Check that the sealing gasket on the sump
plug is in a serviceable condition. (6) When the engine sump has completely
drained, install and firmly tighten the sump drain plug.
Wipe around the plug after installation. (7) Place the drain tin under the oil filler,
remove the oil filter using a filter removal tool and
allow the residual engine oil to drain. Smear the
scaling ring of the new filter with engine oil and
lighten the filter by hand as per the instructions
supplied with the new filter.
NOTE: Before installing the new filter, en-
sure that the sealing gasket from the old
filter has not adhered to the filter sealing
surface on the engine.
(8) Remove the level checking plug from the
Location of the engine sump drain plug.
Removing the engine oil filter using a filter removal tool.
Page 15 of 238
Lubrication and Maintenance 15
Location of the manual transaxle level plug.
manual transaxle. Using a finger, check that the oil is
level with the bottom of the plug hole. Overfilled units
should be drained to the correct level.
If the oil level is low, use an oil gun to fill the
transaxle to the correct level.
When satisfied that the oil level is correct, install
the plug and tighten firmly. Wipe around the plug
after installation.
NOTE: On automatic transaxle vehicles,
refer to the Automatic Transaxle section for
the checking and topping up procedure.
Location of the manual transaxle drain plug.
(9) Using a funnel, fill the engine with the
specified amount and grade of engine oil. start the
engine and run it for a few minutes. Ensure that the
oil light goes out. Stop the engine, wait for a few
minutes and check the engine oil on the dipstick. If
necessary add oil to bring the level to the full mark on
the dipstick.
NOTE: To prevent overfilling the engine
initially, it is good policy not to pour all the
Underbonnet view of the 1.8 liter engine. Automatic transaxle model.
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE DIPSTICK
r
Page 28 of 238
Engine Tune-up
Spark plug with burnt electrodes and white blistered
appearance, possibly due to incorrect plug type, loose
plug or motor running too hot.
NOTE: Never attempt to alter the electrode
gap by bending the centre electrode as
damage to the porcelain insulator will
result.
Before installing any spark plugs measure the gap
between the electrodes, pref erably with clean wire
gauges. If wire gauges are una vailable, use clean feeler
gauges. Move the side electrode towards or away from
the centre electrode to obtain the correct gap-
Screw the plugs into the cylinder head ringer tight,
then use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs lo the
specified torque.
Checking the spark plug electrode gap with a wire
gauge.
NOTE: If a torque wrench is unavailable,
extreme care must be taken when tightening
the spark plugs as over tightening may lead
to stripping of the thread from the cylinder
head. If the plugs are tightened with the
fingers and then taken up an additional 1/4
of a turn with a spark plug wrench, they will
be tight enough.
TO TEST COMPRESSION
(1) With the engine at operating temperature.
disconnect the high tension leads from the spark
plugs.
(2) Ensure that the area around each spark plug
is clean to prevent foreign matter entering the cylin-
ders and remove the spark plugs. (3) Remove the fusible link that is positioned
third from the front of th e fusible link connecting
block, located at the rear of the battery. Disconnect
the coil high tension lead from the coil.
NOTE: Failure to remove the fusible link
can result in an explosion.
(4) Install a compression gauge to number one
spark hole according to the gauge manufacturers
instructions. (5) Have an assistant fully open the throttle and
operate the starter switch to rotate the engine. Ob-
serve the compression gauge and stop the engine when
the gauge has reached the highest reading, usually
after 3 or 4 compression strokes.
(6) Record the reading a nd check the compres-
sion of the remaining cylinders in the same manner.
(7) Compare all the readings taken. Variation
between the highest and lowest reading cylinders
should not exceed 100 kPa. (8) If a low reading is recorded on one or more
cylinders the trouble may be isolated as follows :
Lightly file the plug electrodes flat with a points file
Page 29 of 238
Engine Tune-up 29
Check the cylinder compressions using a compression gauge.
(a) Inject a small amount of engine oil into the
spark plug hole of the cylinder concerned ensuring
that the oil is evenly distributed within the cylinder by
rotating the engine.
(b) Repeat the compression test on the cylinder
concerned.
A substantial increase of compression pressure
indicates faulty or worn piston rings, pistons or
cylinder.
No increase of compression pressure indicates
burnt, obstructed or sticking valves, or a leaking or
blown cylinder head gasket.
(9) Install the fusible li nk and connect the high
tension lead to the coil.
TO SERVICE THE DISTRIBUTOR
The electronic ignition system requires virtually
no maintenance except for checking of the distributor
cap. rotor and high tension leads as described below.
Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management section
for Specifications and Trouble Shooting.
NOTE: When working on or near electronic
ignition systems, care should be taken as
dangerous high voltages are present in both
the primary and secondary circuits.
The ignition switch should be turned off
before removing or inst alling any electrical
connections otherwise damage to the igni-
tion system as well as severe electrical shock
could result.
TO SERVICE HIGH TENSION LEADS
Check the leads for perishing or cracking and
renew as required. Never a ttempt to repair defective
carbon impregnated core leads.
The lead may be carefully cleaned, using cloth
moistened with kerosene a nd then wiped completely
dry.
If an ohmmeter is available the electrical resis-
tance of the leads may be checked as follows:
View showing the location of the fusible links.
Check the spark plug high tension leads for cracks and
burnt or corroded terminals.
Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking
between the terminals
.
Page 35 of 238
Roadside Trouble Shooting 35
View showing the location of the fuel pump fuse and the EGI and fuel pump relays.
switch. When starting the engine, the fuel
pump will not operate until the oil pressure
is sufficient to extinguish the oil pressure
warning lamp. Therefore it will be necessary
to operate the starter motor for a longer
period than usual to start the engine.
(3) If the fuel pump cannot be felt operating,
check the fuel pump fuse located in the fuse panel
adjacent to the steering column.
If the fuel pump fuse is serviceable, refer to the
Fuel and Engine Management section for detailed
tests on the fuel pump.
(4) Check that all fuel hose connections are
secure.
(5) Remove the spark plugs and check for petrol
saturation of the electrodes which indicates flooding.
Thoroughly clean and dry the spark plugs before
replacement. Fully depress the throttle pedal and turn the
ignition switch to the start position. If the engine does
not start, proceed as follows.
Check that the MAP sensor hose is not blocked or split
and ensure that all electrical connections are clean and
secure.
If flooding persists, refer to the Fuel and Engine
Management section.
(6) Check that all EFI electrical wiring connec-
tors are clean and secure.
(7) Check that the MAP sensor vacuum hose is
securely connected at each end and is not split or
blocked.
4. TO CHECK MECHANICAL SYSTEM
The following check procedure assumes that the
starter motor will rotate the engine. If not, on manual
transaxle models, depress the clutch pedal to disen-
gage the engine from the tr ansaxle in case the fault lies
within the transaxle.
If the starter motor will not rotate the engine, it
will be necessary to remove the starter motor and
attempt to turn the engine over manually. This will
establish whether the fault lies with the starter motor,
which could be jammed or defective, or with the
engine, which could be seized or have broken internal
components such as connecting rods, pistons and
crankshafts etc.
If the starter motor is not at fault and the engine
will not rotate manually, refer to the Engine Mechan-
ical Trouble Shooting heading in the Engine section.
It should be noted that the only way that cylinder
compression can be accurately tested is with a com-
pression gauge. The method described in the following
procedure is only intended to give a rough indication
when checking for causes of engine breakdown,
(I) When the engine is cool, check for loss of
coolant from the cooling system.
If coolant loss is evident, check carefully for any
indication of external leakage. Remove the engine oil
dipstick and check for wate r contamination (emulsi-
fication) of the oil. When oil mixes with water it will
Ensure that all fuel connections are securely tightened.
Page 40 of 238
40 Engine
Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the dipstick.
dosed. Before dismantling the engine to
inspect the big ends check the engine oil for
correct level and dilution on the dipstick.
Also, remove the oil pressure sender unit
and connect an oil pressure gauge into the
oil gallery to check the oil pressure readings.
MAIN BEARING NOISE (APPARENT)
(1) Loose flywheel: Tighten the flywheel securing
bolls to the specified torque. (2) Low oil pressure: Check the bearing to
journal clearance. Check the condition of the oil
pump and pressure relief valve. Recondition the oil
pump as necessary. (3) Excessive crankshaft end float: Renew the
main bearings. (4) Crankshaft journals out of round and exces-
sive bearing to journal clear ance: Regrind the journals
and renew the bearings (undersize).
(5) Insufficient oil supply: Replenish the oil in
the sump to the correct level.
NOTE: Main bearing noise is indicated by a
heavy but dull knock when the engine is
under load. A loose flywheel is indicated by
a thud or dull click when the ignition is
turned off. It is us ually accompanied by
vibration.
Crankshaft end float noise is indicated by
a sharp rap at idle speed. The crankshaft
can be readily checked for excessive end
float by levering the crankshaft backwards
and forwards.
If the oil pressure is not satisfactory,
remove the main bearing caps and assess
the bearing clearance using the Plastigage
method as described in this section. Ovality
and wear on the main bearing journals can
only be checked with a micrometer after the
crankshaft has been removed.
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
(1) Oil leaks: Check and renew the engine gas-
kets or seals as necessary.
(2) Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals:
Dismantle the cylinder head and renew the damaged
or worn oil seals. (3) Excessive valve stem to valve guide clear-
ance: Ream the valve guides and renew the valves as
necessary. (4) Worn or broken piston rings: Renew the
piston rings on all pistons. (5) Rings too tight or stuck in the grooves:
Renew the rings and clean the ring grooves.
(6) Excessive wear in the cylinders, pistons and
rings: Recondition the cylinders and renew the pistons
and rings. (7) Compression rings incorrectly installed. Oil
rings clogged or broken: Renew the piston rings.
NOTE: Before checking the engine for oil
leaks the engine should be completely de-
greased and cleaned. Run the engine at
operating temperature for a period and
visually check for oil leakage. By placing
white paper on the floor directly beneath the
engine any excessive leak can be readily
pinpointed.
Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals
which allow oil to be drawn down past the
valve stems into the combustion chambers
can be diagnosed by allowing the engine to
idle for a few minutes and then opening the
throttle. If oil is being drawn past the valve
stems a heavy discharge of blue smoke will
be seen at the tailpipe.
Piston, ring and cylinder bore troubles are
normally accompanied by a loss of compres-
sion. Cylinder compression can only be
accurately assessed by using a compression
gauge.
Run the engine over white paper to check for oil leaks.
Page 53 of 238
Engine 53
Method of checking cylinder head for distortion.
(3) Carefully clean the deposits from the inlet
and exhaust ports, the auxiliary passages, the valve
guides and the manifolds, taking care not to damage
any mating surfaces. (4) Clean the cylinder head mounting faces,
wash the cylinder head in solvent and dry with
compressed air. Blow through all the oil holes with
compressed air to ensure that they are not blocked. (5) Check the cylinder head for distortion diag-
onally and lengthwise using a straight edge and feeler
gauges. Refer to Specifications for the distortion and
machining limits. (6) Check the cylinder head face and combus-
tion chambers for cracks, burn marks and corrosion. (7) Check the valve stem to guide clearance. If
the clearance is in excess of the Specifications, the
valve guide must be reamed and the appropriate
oversize valve installed. (8) Inspect the valve seats for pitting or burning
and if necessary, recut the seats with a valve seat
cutter to the recommended angle. When the seats are
correctly finished, the seat widths should conform to
the Specifications. (9) Lap the valves to the valve seats with a fine
lapping compound. Apply a smear of Prussian blue to
the valves or their respective seats to ensure that true
and concentric seating has been gained.
(10) Install each valve in its respective port
and
check the valve stem height above the cylinder head.
Refer to the illustration. The extended height must
not exceed 18.4 mm. If the height exceeds the
Specifications, the valve or the cylinder head must be
renewed. Do not remove any material from the valve
stem tip.
(11) Check the valve spring tensions and compare
with the Specifications.
Check that the springs are not bent or distorted.
If a spring tester is not available, check the springs
by comparison with new springs. This can be done
using a surface plate and stra ight edge for checking the
free length and using a new spring and a used spring
loaded in a vice end on end, with a plate in between.
Measure from the plate to the vice jaw adjacent to
both the new and used springs. A used spring is
serviceable if it does not show collapse in excess of
five percent when subjected to this comparison test.
(12) Check the exhaust valve rotators for wear
and ensure that the rotators turn freely. (13) Clean the cylinder block face of all carbon
and rust deposits and ensure that all old gaskets are
removed. Do not allow the waste deposits to enter the
oil or water galleries. Clean all waste materials from the cylinder bores.
TO ASSEMBLE
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Lubricate all component wear surfaces with
engine oil before assembly to ensure adequate lubri-
cation when starting. (2) If the oil pressure relief valve was removed
from the cylinder head, proceed as follows:
(a) Using a brass tube inserted in the welch plug
hole at the distributor end of the cylinder head, tap
the relief valve into position. (b) Install the welch plug and the recessed screw
in their respective positions, after coating the plug and
the screw with Loctite 242 or equivalent.
(3) Install the inlet valve spring seats and
the
exhaust valve rotators over the valve guides before
installing the valve stem seals onto the valve guides.
(4) Install the valve stem seals, ensuring that
the
rib of the moulding on the inside of the seal is
correctly positioned in the groove of the valve guide
and that the spring clip retainer is correctly posi-
tioned.
NOTE: The valve stem seals can be posi-
tioned correctly and without damage using
an upturned valve spring retainer.
(5) Install the valves to their original location in
the cylinder head. Use care when installing the valves
to prevent damage to the seals.
(6) Install the valve springs, retainers and
collets.
Ensure that the valve retain ing collets are fully seated
Dimension A is the correct position to measure the
valve stem installed height. Dimension A = 18.4 mm.
Page 56 of 238
56 Engine
Checking the oil pump rotor end float.
with a feeler gauge. Renew the oil pump if this
clearance exceeds the Specifications.
(5) Check the cover plate for wear and scoring
and renew as necessary. (6) Check the relief valve plunger and spring for
wear or damage. Renew any faulty components as
necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Liberally lubricate all components with clean
engine oil before assembly. (2) Install the relief valve plunger and spring into
the pump housing and install the relief valve
plug
using a new sealing washer. Tighten the plug securely. (3) Install the outer rotor into the pump housing with the F mark on the rotor facing towards the cover
plate, if applicable. Install the inner rotor ensuring that
it is correctly meshed with the teeth of the outer rotor.
(4)
Install the cover plate to the oil pump housing
and tighten the retaining screws to the specified
torque. (5) Install a new oil seal to the front of the oil
pump housing. Ensure that the lip of the oil seal faces
the inside of the oil pump housing. (6) If necessary, install the oil pressure gauge
sender unit.
(7) Turn the inner rotor in the oil pump housing.
Ensure that the oil pump rotates freely. (8) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are thoroughly clean. Coat
the oil pump gasket with an oil resistant sealer and
install the oil pump and gasket to the cylinder block. It
may be necessary to turn the oil pump slightly to align
the inner rotor and crankshaft. Tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: Ensure that the oil seal installed to
the oil pump is not damaged when the oil
pump is positioned on the crankshaft.
(9) Install the camshaft drive belt inner cover.
(10) Install the water pump using a new O ring.
Coat the water pump and the engine block mating
surfaces with Dow Corning silicone grease or equiva-
lent. Do not fully tighten the water pump retaining
bolls at this stage. (11) Install the camshaft timing gear and tighten
the retaining bolt to the specified torque.
(12) Install the crankshaft timing gear spacer, key
and timing gear to the crankshaft. (13) Using a new crankshaft timing gear retaining
bolt, install the spacer and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. (14) Ensure that the oil pump pickup pipe and
screen are clean and free of foreign material. Install a
new O ring to the pipe and position the pickup pipe
and screen in position on the oil pump. Coat the
threads of the mounting bolts with Loctite 242 and
torque the bolts to the specified torque. (15) Fill a new oil filter with the correct grade of
engine oil and install the oil filter. (16) Install the sump as previously described.
(17) Install and adjust the camshaft drive belt as
described under the Camshaft Drive Belt heading. (18) Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil. Refer to the Lubrication and Mainte-
nance section.
(19) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (20) Start and run the engine and check for oil
and coolant leaks. (21) Install the engine splash guard to the
inner
right hand mudguard. (22) Install the right hand wheel and tighten the
wheel nuts as much as possible.
Checking the oil pump inner to outer rotor teeth
backlash.
Page 57 of 238
Engine 57
(23) Lower the vehicle to the ground and securely
tighten the wheel nuts.
10. PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS AND
CYLINDER BORES
Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, cylinder measuring
gauge
To Remove Ridge from Bores — Ridge removal tool
To Deglaze Cylinder Bores — Cylinder surfacing
hone
To Install — Piston ring compressor
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (2) Remove the cylinder head as previously
described. (3) Mark the relationship of the pistons to their
respective cylinders and the bearing caps to their
respective connecting rods by letter stamps or centre
punch marks. (4) Measure each connecting rod for side clear-
ance on the crankpin. Refer to the illustration. If the
clearance exceeds the Speci fications a new connecting
rod will have to be installed on assembly. (5) With number one cylinder on the bottom of
its stroke, remove the bear ing cap bolts and the
bearing cap. Wipe the bearing shell and the exposed part of the
journal with a piece of clean lint free cloth, insert a
piece of Plastigage across the journal, install the
bearing cap and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
Remove the bolts and cap and measure (with the
scale on the packet) the spread width of the Plastigage
to determine the bearing clearance.
Compare the measurement to the Specifications
and if the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a
new bearing on assembly.
Repeat the procedure on the remaining cylinders
and note each individual bearing clearance for assem-
bly purposes.
NOTE: Do not rotate the engine while the
Plastigage is in position or false readings
will result.
Dismantled view of the piston and connecting rod
components.
(6) Remove each bearing cap in turn, keeping
them in order, and using a wooden hammer shaft,
push each piston assembly from the cylinder block
and install its respective bearing cap.
NOTE: Before removing the pistons, remove
the ridge from the top of the cylinder bore
using a ridge removal tool.
(7) Remove the piston rings over the top of the
piston and discard the piston rings.
Checking the connecting rod side clearance using feeler
gauges.
Page 59 of 238
Engine 59
(5) If the engine is completely dismantled, thor-
oughly clean the cylinder block with solvent and
compressed air paying particular attention to the
oilways. Inspect the block for cracks and damage.
TO CHECK PISTON CLEARANCE
(1) Using an accurate cylinder measuring gauge,
measure and note the diameter of each bore as
previously described. (2) Measure each piston skirt using a microme-
ter as follows:
(a) On 1.6 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 9 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis. (b) On 1.8 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 6 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis.
(3) The difference between the bore and the
piston measurement is the piston clearance. If the
clearance exceeds the Specifications, renew the pistons
and rebore all the cylinders.
(4) Cylinders that have had new pistons installed
or that have been rebored should have the piston
clearance checked again.
and not engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or
kerosene.
(2) Honing should be carried out by moving the
hone up and down fast enough to obtain a cross hatch
pattern. When hone marks intersect at 60 degrees, the
pattern is most satisfactory for correct seating of rings.
(3) After honing it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives.
NOTE: When deglazing, the cylinder should
be honed only sufficiently to eliminate the
glazed condition. Excessive honing will in-
crease the bore size and alter the piston
clearance.
(4) When honing is complete, ensure that the
cylinder bore, crankcase area and oilways are thor-
oughly cleaned. (5) After the cylinder block has been cleaned and
dried, wipe the bores with a lint free cloth and smear
them with engine oil to prevent rusting.
NOTE: All abrasives must be removed from
the engine components after honing. A so-
lution of soap and water should be used with
a brush and the components thoroughly
dried. A bore can be considered clean when
it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and
the cloth remains clean. Oil the bores after
cleaning to prevent rusting.
TO FIT NEW PISTON RINGS AND INSTAL
PISTONS
Once the correct piston and the bore relationship
has been determined and the pistons cleaned or
renewed as necessary, proceed as follows:
(1) Place a ring into number one cylinder bore
and using an inverted piston push the ring down 50
mm into the cylinder bore. (2) Withdraw the piston and measure the gap in
the ring with feeler gauges. Adjust the end gap of the
ring by filing as necessary. See the Specifications for
the ring end gap.
Measuring the piston diameter using a micrometer. On
1.6 liter models, dimension A = 9 mm. On 1.8 liter
models, dimension A - 6 mm.
TO INSPECT AND DEGLAZE CYLINDER
BORES
Cylinder bores that are fit for further service with
the original pistons, but require re-ringing, should be
deglazed with a hone. Before honing the cylinder
bores with crankshaft insta lled, place plenty of clean
rag over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials
from entering the crankcase area.
(1) Deglaze the cylinder walls using a cylinder
surfacing hone equipped with suitable stones. Inspect
the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil
Checking the piston ring end gap.