recommended oil NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 11 of 238
General Information 11
Lifting Equipment
When using lifting equipment to lift heavy com-
ponents such as the engine and/or transmission, use
metal slings or chain in preference to rope. If rope
must be used, ensure that it is not placed against sharp
edges on the component.
Automotive Lubricants and Solvents
Avoid prolonged skin contact with oils, greases
and solvents as some can cause skin irritations and
dermatitis.
Exercise caution when us ing cleaning solvents as
many are inflammable. Do not smoke. Keep naked
flames and sparks clear of the work area.
Compressed Air
Never point an air hose at another person or allow
compressed air to blow onto your skin. High pressure
air forced against the skin can enter the bloodstream
and prove fatal.
Suspension and Steering Components
Damaged suspension and steering components
should not be welded. Many of these components are
fabricated from toughened metals. If welded they may
lose their strength or become brittle. Damaged com-
ponents should be renewed.
Air Conditioning
Avoid disconnecting air conditioning hoses as
escaping refrigerant can cause frostbite. The refriger-
ant is highly flammable and when burnt, a poisonous
gas is produced.
VEHICLE SAFETY
To prevent damage to the vehicle during servicing
or repair work, note the following precautions.
Brake Fluid
If spilt on the vehicle paintwork, brake fluid
should be immediately washed away with clean water
and allowed to dry naturally, not wiped with a cloth.
Catalytic Converter
The following should be observed to prevent
damage to the catalytic converter:
Do not operate the vehicle on leaded fuel.
Do not push or tow start the vehicle.
Do not allow the engine to idle for prolonged
periods.
Do not switch the ignition off while the vehicle is
in motion and the transmission is in gear.
Do not 'prime' the engine by pouring fuel into the
inlet manifold.
Do not operate the vehicle if the engine is
misfiring.
Avoid running the vehicle out of fuel.
Ensure that the engine oil is formulated to contain
low phosphorus levels.
Electronic Components
The electronic components of the ignition and
fuel injection systems can be damaged by the use of
incorrect testing equipment.
It is essential in all tests where voltage or resis-
tance is to be measured that a digital display multi-
meter with a minimum 10 megohm input impedance
be used.
Some types of tachometers, timing lights and
ignition system analyzers are not compatible with
certain engine electronic systems. It is therefore
recommended that the manufacturer of the test equip-
ment be consulted before using the equipment.
Jump starting, or being jump started by another
vehicle can cause damage to the electronic compon-
ents of the vehicle. Refer to the Roadside Trouble
shooting section for the correct jump starting proce-
dure.
3. GENERAL REPAIR PROCEDURES
SEIZED FASTENERS
Seized bolts, nuts or screws should first have a
liberal amount of penetrating oil applied. The fastener
should be left for a period of time to allow the oil to
penetrate and soften the corrosion which is causing
the binding.
Often, a sharp hammer blow to the head of the
fastener can dislodge the corrosion and permit it to be
loosened.
An impact driver, which can be fitted with a
socket or screwdriver bit, can be used to loosen a
seized fastener.
Another method is to heat the component in
which the fastener is seized. However, extreme cau-
tion should be exercised when heating aluminum
alloy components as the melting point is much lower
than that of steel.
If the above methods fail to free a seized nut,
carefully hacksaw through one side of the nut until it
can be split. Care should be taken that the threads of
the bolt or stud are not damaged.
Should a bolt or stud break below the surface of
the component, it will be necessary to use a screw
extractor to remove the remaining part. Follow the
screw extractor manuf acturers instructions.
Tap and die set and assorted screw extractors.
Page 22 of 238
22 Wheels and Tires
View of the jack correctly installed to the front jacking point
.
(10) Continue to raise the jack until the tire
clears the ground sufficiently to allow the spare wheel
to be installed.
(11) Remove the wheel nuts and lift the wheel
off the hub.
NOTE: Under no circumstances get under
the vehicle while the jack is the only means
of support.
(12) Install the spare wh eel and install the wheel
nuts with the chamfered e nds contacting the wheels.
Tighten the wheel nuts as much as possible by hand.
(13) Lower the jack and securely tighten the
wheel nuts progressively in a diagonal sequence using
the wheel spanner. (14) Where removed, install the wheel cover.
(15) Return the spare wheel, jack and tool kit to
their relevant storage positions.
ABNORMAL WEAR ON CENTRE OF TREAD
(1) Over inflation of tires: Check and reduce to
the recommended pressure.
ABNORMAL WEAR ON INSIDE OF TREAD
(1) Excessive negative camber angle: Check the
wheel alignment. (2) Sagging coil springs: Check and renew the
coil springs as a pair. (3) Loose or worn hub bearing assembly: Check
and renew the hub bearing assembly. (4) Bent, loose or worn suspension components:
Check and renew any faulty components.
ABNORMAL WEAR ON OUTSIDE OF TREAD
(1) Excessive positive camber: Check the front
wheel alignment.
(2) Excessive speed when cornering: Revise driv-
ing habits. (3) Bent, loose or worn suspension components:
Check and renew any faulty components.
2. TYRE WEAR TROUBLE SHOOTING
ABNORMAL WEAR ON BOTH SIDES OF
TREAD
(1) Under inflation of tires: Check and inflate to
the recommended pressure.
(2) Overloading: Reduce the maximum loading. FLAT SPOTS ON TREAD OR IRREGULAR
WEAR
(1)
Static or dynamic unbalance of the wheel
and tire assembly: Check the balance of the wheel and
tire assembly. (2) Lateral run out of the wheel: Check and (rue
up or renew the wheel.
Tighten the wheel nuts in a diagonal sequence using
the wheel spanner.
Page 27 of 238
Engine Tune-up 27
move the alternator or power steering pump as
required until the drive belt concerned has the
specified deflection.
On models with air conditioning, loosen the nut
in the centre of the idler pulley and turn the adjusting
bolt until the drive belt has the specified deflection.
(3) Tighten the alternator or power steering
pump bolts securely and check the belt tension.
On models with air conditioning, tighten the idler
pulley nut securely.
TO SERVICE SPARK PLUGS
The spark plugs should be renewed at intervals of
40 000 km.
Before removing the spark plugs ensure that the
area around each plug is cl ean to prevent foreign
matter entering the cylinder when the plugs are
removed.
Spark plugs removed from an engine in good
mechanical condition should have a light powdery
deposit ranging from light brown to grayish tan in
color. After considerable service the electrodes will
show signs of wear or no rmal burning. Spark plugs
showing a thick black oily deposit indicate an engine
in poor mechanical condition or possibly, that a plug
with too low a heat range has been installed.
Spark plugs showing a white or yellowish deposit
indicate sustained high speed driving or possibly that
plugs with too high a heat range have been installed,
particularly when these deposits are accompanied by
blistering of the porcelain and burning of the elec-
trodes.
If the spark plugs are to be cleaned, use a
sandblasting machine and blow clean with com-
pressed air. Ensure that all traces of abrasive grit are
removed from the spark plug threads and from the
well in the plug body. Carefully open the electrode gap
a little, by bending the side electrode, and lightly file
the electrodes flat with a points file.
Black damp deposits can be caused by excessive oil
consumption or incorrect plug type. Spark plugs in this
condition are usually not firing.
Cutaway view of spark plug showing a crack in the
insulator nose which can be caused by exerting pres-
sure against the centre electrode when adjusting the
gap. The other crack shown on the insulator is caused
by tilting the plug spanner.
When plug electrodes are eroded to this degree the
spark can be considered worn out and should be
renewed using a plug of the recommended heat range
.
CRACK
Page 30 of 238
30 Engine Tune-up
(1) With the distributor cap and leads removed
as an assembly, test one lead at a time, connecting the
meter probes at the spark plug end of the lead and at
the corresponding terminal in side the cap. Resistance
should be less than 15 000 ohms.
(2) If the resistance is more than 15 000 ohms
remove the lead from the distributor cap and check
(he resistance in the lead only. The lead should be
renewed if the resistance is still more than 15 000
ohms. (3) High distributor cap resistance may be due
to corrosion deposits on the cap terminals. These
deposits should be removed with a small scraper or
emery cloth. Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking
between the high tension terminals on both the inside
and outside of the cap. Renew the cap if cracks or
tracking are evident.
Check the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap for evidence of arcing and renew as
necessary.
Check the condition of the rotor and renew if
arced excessively or cracked.
HOW TO CONNECT ELECTRICAL TEST
EQUIPMENT
NOTE: Some types of tachometers, timing
lights and ignition system analysers are not
compatible with this type of electronic igni-
tion system and may result in incorrect
readings. It is therefore recommended that
the manufacturer of the test equipment be
consulted before using the equipment.
Do not allow the tachometer lead connec-
tor to short to earth as damage to the test
equipment or ignition system may result.
Timing Light
(1) Connect the timing light to the engine fol-
lowing the instrument manufacturers instructions.
NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the
timing light with the engine running as
voltage surges could damage the alternator.
Do not allow the high tension leads to open
circuit as damage to the ignition system
could result.
(2) Where necessary, connect the power leads of
the timing light to an external power source to prevent
possible transient voltages in the timing light damag-
ing the vehicle alternator.
Tachometer
(1) Ensure that the tachometer is compatible
with the vehicle ignition system. (2) Disconnect the resistor from the tachometer
View showing the location of the tachometer pickup
wiring connector with the resistor installed
.
pick up wiring connector which is located on the
ignition coil wiring harness, and connect the positive
lead of an accurate tachometer to the brown wire
terminal in the wiring connector.
(3) Connect the negative lead to a good earthing
point.
TO CHECK AND ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
( 1 ) Connect an accurate tachometer and timing
light to the engine as previously described.
View showing the location of the diagnostic link
connector. Passengers seat removed for clarity.
Inset shows the diagnostic link connector terminal
identification.
(2) Start the engine and allow it to reach normal
operating temperature. (3) Connect a jumper lead between terminals A
and B on the diagnostic link connector. (4) With the engine idling at the specified speed,
check the ignition timing with the timing light.
Correct timing exists when the marks on the
crankshaft pulley are aligned with the pointer on the
inner timing cover.
Page 34 of 238
Roadside Trouble Shooting
ing the wiring from any component, ensure
that the ignition switch is off and the
negative battery terminal is disconnected to
prevent damage to the solid state circuitry.
(4) Open the electrode gap of a serviceable spark
plug to 6 mm. Securely earth the plug using a jumper
lead or by tying the plug to an earthed engine
component.
(5) Disconnect the high tension lead from a
spark plug and connect it to the test spark plug.
(6) Have an assistant operate the starter motor.
(7) Check that a spark, if any, jumps the gap on
the test spark plug. If the spark is satisfactory, proceed to operation
(8).
If there is no spark, proceed as follows:
(a) Check the high tension leads to ensure that
they are dry and that the insulation is not cracked or
perished. Check the ends of the leads for burning. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance in
each high tension lead. The resistance should be no
more than 15 000 ohms per lead.
(b) Check the distributor cap to ensure that it is
dry and clean. Examine both the inside and outside of
the cap for cracks or tracki ng, particularly between the
high tension lead segments.
Check that the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap interior fa ce is clean and dry and
ensure that the brush moves freely in and out of its
locating hole.
(c) Check the rotor arm for cracks, deposits and
burning on the metal arm. (d) Ensure that the high tension leads have dry.
clean and secure connections on the distributor cap. (8) If the above checks r esult in a good spark at
the spark plug high tension leads but the engine is still
not operating satisfac torily, remove all the spark plugs
and check the condition and electrode gap as de-
scribed in the Engine Tune-up section under the
appropriate heading.
3. TO CHECK FUEL SYSTEM
Due to the complex nature of the EFI system, it is
recommended that should the following checks prove
satisfactory but the engine fail to start, reference be
made to the Fuel and Engine Management section of
this manual or a Nissan workshop be consulted.
(1) Check that the fuel tank contains a reason-
able amount of fuel. (2) Have an assistant switch the ignition on and
off while squeezing the fuel supply hose with the
fingers. If the fuel pump is operating it should be
possible to feel the fuel pr essure increase for approx-
imately two seconds.
NOTE: When conducting the above test it
should be possible to hear the fuel pump and
ignition relays clicking when the ignition is
switched on and off
If the fuel pump relay fails, power will be
supplied to the fuel pump via the oil pressure
Check the distributor cap for cracks or tracking between the terminals. Squeeze the fuel supply hose while the ignition is
switched On. An increase in pressure should be felt.
Check the spark plug high tension leads for cracks and
burnt or corroded terminals.
Page 44 of 238
44 Engine
Rear three quarter view of the 1.8 liter engine and automatic transaxle assembly.
mountings. Lower the assembly onto the mountings
and tighten the mounting nuts and bolts.
(4) Install a new exhaust flange gasket.
(5) Fill the engine and transaxle with the correct
quantity and grade of lubricant. (6) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (7) On models with power steering, fill the power
steering reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(8) Start and run the engine until it reaches the
normal operating temperatur e and check for fuel, oil
and coolant leaks.
4. MANIFOLDS
INLET MANIFOLD - 1.6 Liter Models
To Remove and Install
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurise the system before removing the
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Remove the wingnuts retaining the air
cleaner to the throttle body, lift the air cleaner
upwards slightly and disconnect the vacuum hoses. (3) Drain the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (4) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
engine coolant hoses from the rear of the manifold.
(5) Disconnect the small branch of the engine
ventilation hose from the rear of the inlet manifold. (6) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the kickdown cable from the throttle lever by releasing
the wire spring clip and re moving the cable end socket
from the ball.
(7) Turn the throttle lever to the full throttle
position. Using the slack in the throttle cable, release
the throttle cable end thr ough the slot provided.
Page 52 of 238
52 Engine
leaks and rectify as necessary. Check and if necessary
adjust the ignition timing as described in the Engine
Tune-up section.
(16) When the engine has reached normal oper-
ating temperature, tighten the cylinder head bolts
another 40-50 degrees in the correct sequence shown
in the illustration, ensuring that the tension does not
exceed 135 Nm.
TO DISMANTLE
(1) Remove the cylinder head as previously
described.
(2) Remove the thermostat housing and sealing
ring from the cylinder head.
(3) Remove the nuts securing the inlet and
exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head and remove
the manifolds. Discard the gaskets. (4) Lift the rocker arm and thrust pad from the
top of each valve assembly, keeping them in order for
assembly to their or iginal locations.
(5) Slide each hydraulic tappet from its bore in
the cylinder head, also keeping them in order for
assembly to their or iginal locations.
(6) Before removing the valves the deposits in
Installed view of the cylinder head oil pressure relief
valve.
the combustion chambers s hould be removed. Care
should be taken not to damage the cylinder head
gasket face.
(7) Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each spring in turn. Remove the split retaining collets
and slowly release the compressor.
(8) Remove the valve spring retainers and valve
springs. (9) Remove the valve stem seals from the top of
the valve guides and detach the exhaust valve rotators
and the inlet valve spring seats, from the cylinder
head. (10) Remove any burrs from the valve stem
grooves to prevent damage to the valve guides when
the valves are removed from the cylinder head. (11) Remove the valves, keeping them in order
for assembly to their original locations.
NOTE: To keep the valve assemblies in
order have a rack numbered from 1 to 8 and
instill the components in this rack, starting
from the front of the cylinder head.
(12) If the oil pressure relief valve in the cylinder
head is to be renewed, proceed as follows:
(a) Using a drift, remove the welch plug from
the distributor end of the cylinder head. (b) Remove the recessed screw from the thermo-
stat housing end of the cylinder head. (c) Using a long brass drift inserted in the oilway
through the tappet bores from the thermostat housing
end. remove the oil pressure relief valve from the
cylinder head. Discard the relief valve.
TO CLEAN AND INSPECT
(1) Clean the valves thoroughly and discard any
burnt, warped or cracked valves. (2) Have the valves refaced to the recommended
angle on a valve refacing machine. The valve stem tips
are specially hardened and should not be refaced.
Dismantled view of the valve and spring components.
Page 53 of 238
Engine 53
Method of checking cylinder head for distortion.
(3) Carefully clean the deposits from the inlet
and exhaust ports, the auxiliary passages, the valve
guides and the manifolds, taking care not to damage
any mating surfaces. (4) Clean the cylinder head mounting faces,
wash the cylinder head in solvent and dry with
compressed air. Blow through all the oil holes with
compressed air to ensure that they are not blocked. (5) Check the cylinder head for distortion diag-
onally and lengthwise using a straight edge and feeler
gauges. Refer to Specifications for the distortion and
machining limits. (6) Check the cylinder head face and combus-
tion chambers for cracks, burn marks and corrosion. (7) Check the valve stem to guide clearance. If
the clearance is in excess of the Specifications, the
valve guide must be reamed and the appropriate
oversize valve installed. (8) Inspect the valve seats for pitting or burning
and if necessary, recut the seats with a valve seat
cutter to the recommended angle. When the seats are
correctly finished, the seat widths should conform to
the Specifications. (9) Lap the valves to the valve seats with a fine
lapping compound. Apply a smear of Prussian blue to
the valves or their respective seats to ensure that true
and concentric seating has been gained.
(10) Install each valve in its respective port
and
check the valve stem height above the cylinder head.
Refer to the illustration. The extended height must
not exceed 18.4 mm. If the height exceeds the
Specifications, the valve or the cylinder head must be
renewed. Do not remove any material from the valve
stem tip.
(11) Check the valve spring tensions and compare
with the Specifications.
Check that the springs are not bent or distorted.
If a spring tester is not available, check the springs
by comparison with new springs. This can be done
using a surface plate and stra ight edge for checking the
free length and using a new spring and a used spring
loaded in a vice end on end, with a plate in between.
Measure from the plate to the vice jaw adjacent to
both the new and used springs. A used spring is
serviceable if it does not show collapse in excess of
five percent when subjected to this comparison test.
(12) Check the exhaust valve rotators for wear
and ensure that the rotators turn freely. (13) Clean the cylinder block face of all carbon
and rust deposits and ensure that all old gaskets are
removed. Do not allow the waste deposits to enter the
oil or water galleries. Clean all waste materials from the cylinder bores.
TO ASSEMBLE
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:
(1) Lubricate all component wear surfaces with
engine oil before assembly to ensure adequate lubri-
cation when starting. (2) If the oil pressure relief valve was removed
from the cylinder head, proceed as follows:
(a) Using a brass tube inserted in the welch plug
hole at the distributor end of the cylinder head, tap
the relief valve into position. (b) Install the welch plug and the recessed screw
in their respective positions, after coating the plug and
the screw with Loctite 242 or equivalent.
(3) Install the inlet valve spring seats and
the
exhaust valve rotators over the valve guides before
installing the valve stem seals onto the valve guides.
(4) Install the valve stem seals, ensuring that
the
rib of the moulding on the inside of the seal is
correctly positioned in the groove of the valve guide
and that the spring clip retainer is correctly posi-
tioned.
NOTE: The valve stem seals can be posi-
tioned correctly and without damage using
an upturned valve spring retainer.
(5) Install the valves to their original location in
the cylinder head. Use care when installing the valves
to prevent damage to the seals.
(6) Install the valve springs, retainers and
collets.
Ensure that the valve retain ing collets are fully seated
Dimension A is the correct position to measure the
valve stem installed height. Dimension A = 18.4 mm.
Page 70 of 238
70 Cooling and Heating Systems
Installed view of the heater hoses. 1.6 liter models with the air cleaner removed for clarity
.
When the engine is at normal operating
temperature and the heater valve is open,
both of the heater hoses should feel
warm/hot. If the valve is not allowing the
coolant to flow, one hose will be hot while
the other will be cold.
NO COOLED AIR INSIDE VEHICLE
(1) Compressor drive belt slipping or broken:
Renew and/or adjust the drive belt as described in the
Engine Tune-up section.
(2) Insufficient refrigerant: Check the system for
leaks and charge as necessary. Refer to the Air
Conditioning heading in th is section for information
on checking the refrigerant level. (3) Compressor inoperative: Check for power to
the compressor clutch before removing the compres-
sor for repair by a specialist. (4) Heater system allowing warm air to mix with
cooled air: Check the operation of the heater system.
NOTE: The above trouble shooting proce-
dures are basic checks only. If the air
conditioning system is suspect, it is rec-
ommended that the vehicle be taken to an
authorized dealer for testing and repair.
It is normal for water to be seen drain-
ing under the vehicle from the evaporator
after the vehicle has been operated with
the air conditioning on.
3. DESCRIPTION
The cooling system is of the sealed, pressurized
type with fan and water pump assistance. The system
is pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the
coolant and so increase the efficiency of the engine.
Provision for pressure a nd vacuum relief of the
system is incorporated in the radiator cap.
The radiator overflow hose is connected to a
reserve tank mounted adjacent to the battery. As the
coolant volume expands due to an increase in tem-
perature, the pressure valve in the radiator cap opens
and allows the excess coolant to flow into the reserve
tank. When the engine is stopped and the temperature
of the coolant falls, the vacuum valve in the radiator
cap opens and allows the excess coolant in the reserve
tank to siphon back into the radiator. Thus the
necessity for frequent topping up of the coolant is
eliminated.
The temperature of the cooling system is con-
trolled by a thermostat located in the thermostat
housing attached to the cylinder head.
The thermostat prevents circulation of coolant
through the radiator by directing coolant through the
by-pass circuit, until the engine has reached operating
temperature. This restricted circulation allows the
engine to reach operating temperature quickly, im-
proving drivability and fuel economy.
Removal of the thermostat to cure overheating is
not recommended because th e by-pass circuit will
remain open reducing the amount of water flowing
through the radiator.
An anti-corrosion inhibitor should always be
added to the coolant to protect the cooling and
heating systems from corrosion.
The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine and is driven by the camshaft drive belt. It is
equipped with a double row ball bearing and a spring
loaded seal assembly. The water pump is a disposable
unit and cannot be repaired.
The fan is driven by an electric motor which is
actuated by the coolant temperature sensor and the
control unit.
On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, an
additional electric fan is m ounted to the radiator. This
fan is controlled by a sw itch connected to the air
conditioning compressor.
The radiator consists of an aluminum core with
plastic side tanks. Minor damage to the core can be
repaired using Nissan repair agent.
The left hand tank of the radiator houses the
transaxle oil cooler on automatic transaxle models.
To drain the cooling system a drain plug is
provided on the lower radiator pipe outlet.
4. RADIATOR
NOTE: To avoid scalding, use caution when
releasing the radiator cap on an engine
which is at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first
stop and allow any pressure in the system to
release. When the pressure is released turn
the cap past the stop and remove it from the
radiator.
Page 80 of 238
Cooling and Heating Systems
11. BLOWER FAN
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Working below the glov e compartment, dis-
connect the wiring connector to the blower fan motor.
(3) Remove the bolts retaining the blower fan
motor and carefully lower the motor while disconnect-
ing the drain hose.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
( t ) Tighten all bolts securely.
(2) Check that the blow er fan operates correctly.
Dismantled view of the blower fan and associated
components.
12. AIR CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
The air conditioning system, when used in con-
junction with the heater, enables any reasonable tem-
perature to be achieved inside the vehicle. It can also
reduce the humidity of the incoming air, aiding
demisting even when cooling is not required.
The basic components of the air conditioning sys-
tem are an evaporator, co ndenser, compressor, re-
ceiver/dryer, expansion valve and pipes and hoses
carrying the refrigerant through the system. Various
subsidiary controls and sensors are also utilized to
protect the system against low or high pressure and
excessive temperature.
The refrigerant will boil at a very low tempera-
ture (-33 deg C) and therefore must be contained
under pressure. Escaping refrigerant can cause frost-
bite and eye damage and will produce a poisonous gas
when burnt. Also, if the system suffers a rapid loss of
refrigerant, oil from the compressor may be carried
out with the refrigerant. It is recommended that any
work requiring disconnection of the components be
referred to an au thorized dealer.
In the event of major repair s to the vehicle such as
engine removal, the compress or hoses are of sufficient
Schematic diagram of a typical air conditioning
system.
length to allow the compressor to be removed as the
engine is lowered from the engine compartment with-
out disturbing any refrigerant line connections.
If the operation of the air conditioning system is
in doubt, it is recommended that the vehicle be taken
to an authorized dealer for testing and repair.
TO CHECK REFRIGERANT CHARGE
(1) Start the engine and operate the air condi-
tioner on maximum cooling for a few minutes.
(2) Observe the flow of refrigerant through the
sight glass located at the top of the receiver/dryer. On
some models it may be necessary to use a mirror to
see the sight glass. (3) If the system is operating correctly, the sight
glass will be clear during the operation of the com-
pressor. Occasional bubbles may be seen when the
compressor cycles on and off during operation, but a
NUT j-
Bubbles in the sight glass when the air conditioner is
operating indicates a low refrigerant charge.