crank OPEL 1900 1973 Owner's Guide

6A- 121973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALINTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION
Removal1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove air cleaner.
3. Disconnect throttle linkage at carburetor.
4. Disconnect vacuum advance line at carburetor.
5. Remove fuel line at carburetor inlet.
6. Remove positive crankcase ventilation hose at
rocker arm cover.
7. Disconnect E.G.R. lines from carburetor and in-
take manifold.
8. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
9. Remove six bolts attaching manifold assembly to
cylinder head and remove manifold and carburetor
as an assembly. Discard manifold gasket.
To separate intake and exhaust, manifold, remove
carburetor and four bolts using Tool J-23016, attach-
ing intake manifold to exhaust manifold. Always in-
stall a new manifold intermediate gasket when the
manifolds are separated.
Installation1. Install new manifold gasket and place manifold in
position.
2. Install manifold bolts. New manifold to cylinder
head gasket must be installed whenever a manifold
is removed.
3. When installing the manifold, start with the No.
1 and No. 2 bolts. See Figure 6A-16. Gradually
tighten both bolts until snug. Then continue with the
rest of the bolts in the sequence illustrated in Figure6A-16. Torque bolts to 33 lb. ft.
Figure 6A-16 Manifold
Bolt Tightening Sequence4. Connect parts removed in Steps 1 thru 8 above.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal1. Drain coolant from radiator and block. Loosen
drain plug on right side of engine to avoid coolant
entering into cylmder bores. Drain plug is located onthe right rear of cylinder block above oil pressure
switch.2. Remove hoses from thermostat housing. Collect
coolant as it contains anti-freeze.
3. Remove 6 intake and exhaust manifold attaching
bolts and swing assembly aside.
4. Remove spark plug wires from plugs.
5. Remove bracket bolt holding spark plug wires
away from cylinder head.
6. Remove rocker arm cover.
7. Remove 10 cylinder head bolts using 12 MM ser-
rated drive J-22915, and 2 cylinder head to timing
chain cover bolts with a 6MM hex head wrench. See
Figure 6A- 17.
Figure 6A-17 Serrated Bits
8. Remove three bolts attaching plate to front of
cylinder head.
9. Remove plastic screw from end of camshaft.
10. Remove 3 bolts attaching camshaft sprocket to
cylinder head. Slide sprocket off of camshaft and
remove head. Place head on bench supported at each
end by a block of wood to prevent damage to valves.
Installation1. Install in reverse procedure to removal, paying
particular attention to the following:

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 15New inlet valves must not be refaced or lapped with
grinding compound.The correct angle for the intake
and exhaust valve head is 44 degrees.10. Install cylinder head.
11. Adjust valve clearance. See MAINTENANCE
AND ADJUSTMENTS.
7. Inspect valve guides. Worn or pitted guides can be
reamed to accept valves with oversize stems. Over-
size valves are occasionally used in production.
Oversize valves are marked
’ 1 u “2” or “A” and are
stamped into the valve stem end and also stamped
near spark plug hole. See Figure 6A-22.
Replacing Rocker Arm Studs1. When replacing rocker arm studs become
neces-
sary, remove air cleaner, rocker arm cover and
rocker arm.
8. Reseat valve seats in cylinder head in the following
sequence:
Intake
NOTE:The rocker arm studs are screwed into the
cylinder head. A tapered part of the stem serves to
a void stud loosening.With 45 degrees cutter, remove burnt structure until
a metallic bright seat is obtained. Lightly coat valve
head with red lead, insert it into guide and turn it
under light pressure several times back and forth.
Thereby a contact pattern is obtained and the seat
width can be measured. If valve does not seat per-
fectly all around, lightly recut valve seat to the estab-
lished seat width of
,049” - .059” with 30 degrees
correction cutter.
ExhaustThe directions for reconditioning intake valve seats
apply in principle also to exhaust valve seat recondi-
tioning with the exception that the valve seat width
should be
.063-,073 in. and different cutters are em-
ployed.
NOTE:
: OTse new valve seals whenever
valves are reconditioned.9. Lube valves with engine oil and reinstall valves,
valve springs, caps and cap retainers using J-8062.
Install valve spring with closely wound coils toward
cylinder head. See Figure
6A-24.2. Attach vise grip pliers to stud being removed and
remove from cylinder head.
3. Screw in new stud. Seat tapered part of stud by
striking stud end with a rubber hammer.
4. Place two turned down rocker arm nuts on
threaded part of stud.
5. Torque stud into cylinder head to 29
lb.ft.
Valve Lifter ServiceThe valve lifters can be removed after removing
rocker arm cover and rocker arms.No oversize lifters have been released due to the
insignificant wear of the valve lifters and cylinder
head guides.
Amply oil respective parts and install in reverse se-
quence to removal.
Carry out hydraulic valve lifter adjustment as ou-
tlined in MAINTENANCE AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
VALVE
I SPRING
CLOSE
WOUND
COILS
TOWARD
HEAD6A-24
Figure 6A-24 Valve SpringCONNECTING ROD BEARINGSA connecting rod bearing consists of two halves or
shells which are alike and interchangeable in rod and
cap. When the shells are placed in rod and cap the
ends extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces so
that when rod bolts are tightened the shells will be
clamped tightly in place to insure positive seating
and to prevent turning. Theends of shells must never
be tiled flush with parting surface of rod or cap.
If a precision type connecting rod bearing becomes
noisy or is worn so that clearance on crankpin is
excessive, a new bearing of proper size must be se-
lected and installed since no provision is made for
adjustment. Under no circumstances should the con-necting rod or cap be filed to adjust the bearing
clearance.

6A- 161973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALInspection of Connecting Rod Bearings and
Crankshaft JournalsRemove oil pan.
After removal of oil pan, disconnect two connecting
rods at a time from crankshaft and inspect the bear-
ings and crankpin journals. While,tuming crankshaft
it is necessary to
t&porarily reconnect the rods to
crankshaft to avoid possibility of damaging the jour-
nals through contact with loose rods.
If connecting rod bearings are chipped or scored they
should be replaced. If bearings
are in good physical
condition check for proper clearance on crankpins as
described under, checking clear$nce and selecting
replacement connecting rod beartngs.
If crankpin journals are scored or ridged, the crank-
shaft must be replaced, or reground for undersize
bearings, to insure satisfactory life of connecting rod
bearings. Slight roughness may be polished out withfine grit polishing cloth thoroughly wetted with en-
gine oil. Burrs may be honed off with a fine oil stone.
Use an outside micrometer to check crankpins for
out- of-round. If crankpins are mpre than
,002” out-
of- round, satisfactory life of new ,bearings cannot be
expected.
Checking Clearance and Selecting Replacement
Connecting Rod BearingsService bearings are furnished in standard size and
several undersizes. The clearance of connecting rod
(and crankshaft) bearings may be checked by use of
Plastigage, Type PG-1 (green), or equivalent, which
is soluble in oil.
1. Remove connecting rod cap with bearing shell.
Wipe off oil from bearing and crankpin journal, also
blow oil out of hole in crankshaft.
2. Place a piece of the plastic-type gauge material
Figure 6A-25 Checking Bearing
Cleatance WithPlastic-Type Gaugelengthwise along the bottom center of the lower bear-
ing shell (Figure 6A-25, view A), then install cap
with shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft. Do not turn
crankshaft with gauge type material in bearing.
3. Remove bearing cap with bearing shell, the flat-
tened piece of gauge will be found adhering to either
the bearing shell or the crankpin. Do not remove it.
4. Using the scale printed on the envelope, measure
the flattened piece of gauge at its widest point. The
number within the graduation which closely corre-
sponds to the width of the gauge, indicates the bear-
ing clearance in thousandths of an inch. See Figure6A-25, View B.
5. The desired clearance with a new bearing is.0006”- .0025”. If bearing has been in service it is
advisable to install a new bearing if the clearance
exceeds .003”, however if bearing is in good condi-
tion and is not being checked because of bearing
noise, it is not necessary to replace the bearing.
6. After the proper size bearing has been selected,
clean off the gauge, oil thoroughly, reinstall cap with
bearing shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS AND SEALS
Replacement of Crankshaft BearingsA crankshaft bearing consists of two halves or shells
which are identical and are interchangeable in cap
and crankcase. All crankshaft bearings except the
rear main bearing are identical. The crankshaft end
thrust is taken up the rear (No. 5) main bearing.
Figure 6A-26 Engine Crankshaft Bearings
When the shells are placed in crankcase and bearing
cap, the ends extend slightly beyond the parting
sur-faces so that when cap bolts are tightened the shells
will be clamped tightly in place to insure positive

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 17
seating and to prevent turning.The ends of she//s
must never be tiled flush with parting surface of
crankcase or bearing cap.Crankshaft bearings are the precision type which do
not require reaming to size. Shims are not provided
for adjustment since worn bearings are readily re-
placed with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for
service replacement are furnished in standard size
and undersizes. Under no circumstances should
crankshaft bearing caps be tiIed to adjust for wear in
old bearing.After removal of oil pan, pipe and screen assembly,
perform the following removal, inspection and in-
stallation operations on each crankshaft bearing in
turn so that the crankshaft will be well supported by
the other bearings.
If crankshaft has been removed to check straightness
the following procedure is suggested. Rest crank-
shaft on “V-blocks” at number one and number live
main bearing journals. Check indicator runout at
No. 3 main bearing journal. Total indicator reading
should not exceed
.C012”.1. Since any service condition which affects the
crankshaft bearings may also affect the connecting
rod bearings, it is advisable to inspect connecting rod
bearings
first. If crankpins are worn to the extent
that crankshaft should be replaced or reground, re-
placement of crankshaft bearings only will not be
satisfactory.
If replacement of cylinder block or crankshaft is re-
quired, always check main bearing clearance with
plastic-type gauge to obtain specified limits.
2. Remove one bearing cap, then clean and inspect
lower bearing shell and the crankshaft journal. If
journal surface is scored or ridged, the crankshaft
must be replaced or reground to insure satisfactory
operation with new bearings. Slight roughness may
be polished out with tine grit polishing cloth
thoroughly wetted with engine oil, and burrs may be
honed off with a tine stone.
3. If condition of lower bearing shell and crankshaft
journal is satisfactory, check the bearing clearance
with a plastic-type gauge.
4. When checking a crankshaft bearing with plastic-
type gauging material, turn crankshaft so that oil
hole is up to avoid dripping of oil on the gauge
material. Place paper shims in lower halves of adja-
cent bearings and tighten cap bolts to take the weight
of crankshaft
off the lower shell of beating being
checked.5. If bearing clearance exceeds
.C03”, it is advisable
to install a new bearing; however, if bearing is in
good condition and is not being checked because ofbearing noise, it is not necessary to replace the bear-
ing.6. Loosen all crankshaft bearing cap bolts
l/2 turn,
and remove cap of bearing to be replaced.
7. Remove upper bearing shell by inserting Bearing
Shell Remover and Installer J-8080 in oil hole in
crankshaft, then slowly turning crankshaft so that
the tool rotates the shell out of place by pushing
against the end without the tang. See Figure
6A-27.When turning crankshaft with rear bearing cap
removed hold oil seal to prevent it from rotating out
of position in crankcase.
8. The crankshaft journal cannot be measured with
an outside micrometer when shaft is in place; how-
ever, when upper bearing shell is removed the jour-
nal may be checked for out-of-round by using a
special crankshaft caliper and inside micrometer.
Figure 6A-27 Removing and Installing Crankshaft
Bearing Upper Shell
The caliper should not be applied to journal in line
with oil hole.
If crankshaft journal is more than
.M)12” out-of-
round, the crankshaft should be replaced since the
full mileage cannot be expected from bearings used
with an excessively out-of-round crankshaft.
9. Before installation of bearing shells make sure that
crankshaft journal and the bearing seats in crankcase
and cap are thoroughly cleaned.
10. Coat inside surface of upper bearing shell with
engine oil and place shell against crankshaft journal
so that tang on shell will engage notch in crankcase
when shell is rotated into place.
11. Rotate bearing shell into place as far as possible
by hand, then insert Installer J-8080 in crankshaft oil
hole and rotate crankshaft to push shell into place.
Bearing shell should move into place with very little

6A- 18 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
pressure. If heavy pressure is required, shell was not
started squarely and will be distorted if force into place.
12. Place lower bearing shell in bearing cap, then
check clearance
with plastic-type gauge, as previ-
ously described.
13. The desired clearance with a new bearing is
.0009” to .0025”. If this clearance cannot be obtained
with a standard size bearing, insert an undersize
bearing and check again
w&h plastic-type gauge
material.
14. When the proper size bearing has been selected,
clean out all plastic gauge material, oil the lower
shell and reinstall bearing cap. Clean the bolt holes
and lube bolts, then torque cap bolts to 72 lb. ft. The
crankshaft should turn freely at flywheel rim; how-
ever, a very slight drag is permissible if an undersize
bearing is used.
15. If the thrust bearing shell is disturbed or replaced
it is necessary to line up the thrust surfaces of the
bearing shell before the cap bolts are tightened. To
do this, move the crankshaft fore and aft the limit of
its travel several times (last movement fore) with the
thrust bearing cap bolts finger tight.
16. After bearing is installed and tested, loosen all
bearing cap bolts
l/2 turn and continue with other
bearings. When bearings have been installed and
tested, tighten all bearing cap bolts to 72 lb. ft.
17. Replace rear bearing oil seals.
18. Install pipe and screen assembly and oil pan.
Installation of Rear Bearing Oil
Seals (Engine in Vehicle)
1. Remove transmission, bell housing and clutch.
Refer to appropriate section for removal procedures.
Figure 6A-28 Removing Rear Main Oil Seal
2. Remove flywheel.
3. Punch a hole into oil seal and screw in a sheet
metal screw and pull out oil seal. See Figure
6A-28.
4. To insure proper sealing, lubricate seal with a
suitable protective grease and install on taper ring
J-22928. Turn seal to ensure lip of seal is not turned
back. See Figure
6A-27.
OIL SEAL’6A-29
Figure
6A-29 Installing Oil Seal on Tool J-22928
5. Place tapered ring with oil seal on crankshaft
flange and move lip of seal
over rear of crankshaft.
Be careful not to tilt seal.
Figure 6A-30 Installing Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
6. Drive in oil seal using Tool J-22928-2. See Figure
6A-30.
7. Install flywheel, clutch, bell housing and transmis-
.

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 19
sion. When replacing flywheel use new bolts and
torque to 43 lb.ft.
PISTON, RINGS AND CONNECTING RODS
Removal and Disassembly of Piston
and Rod Assemblies
1. Drain oil.
2. Remove oil pan. 3. Remove cylinder head.
4. Examine the cylinder bores above the ring travel.
If bores are worn so a ridge exists, remove the ridges
with a ridge reamer to avoid damaging rings or
cracking ring lands in pistons during removal.
5. Mark the cylinder number on all pistons, connect-
ing rods and caps. Starting at the front end of the
crankcase, the cylinders are numbered l-2-3-4,
6. Remove cap and bearing shell from number 1
connecting rod.
7. Push the piston and
rod assembly up and out of
top cylinder. Then reinstall cap and bearing shell on
rod.
0
-J-23436-4
J-23436-2+
J-6047
Figure
6A-3 1 Piston Pin Removal Tool Layout - 1 .S
Engine
8. Remove other rod and piston assemblies in the
same manner.
9. Remove compression rings and oil rings.
10. Remove piston pin in following manner:
a. Position base support J-6047 on hydraulic press.
b. Place tool J-23436-2 in base support with large
diameter bore facing upward. See Figure
6A-31.
c. Position piston and rod assembly on tool
J-
23436-2 making certain the pin is aligned on tool.
d. Position tool J-23436-4 in opposite end of piston
pin and press pin out.
Inspection of Cylinder Bores
Inspect cylinder walls for scoring, roughness, or
ridges which indicate excessive wear. Check cylinder
bores for taper and out-of-round with an accurate
cylinder gage at top, middle and bottom
ofbore, both
parallel and at right angles to the centerline of the
engine. The diameter of the cylinder bores at any
point may be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder gauge dial at “0” and measur-
ing across the gauge contact points with outside mi-
crometer while the gauge is at the same “0” setting.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly
scored but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is possi-
ble to repair the bore by honing to accept a standard
service piston. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply scored, it may be necessary to rebore the cyl-
inder to fit an oversize piston in order to insure satis-
factory results.
If a cylinder bore is tapered
.ooO5” or more, or is
out-of-round
.0005” or more, it is advisable to hone
or rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and
rings.
Visual Inspection of Pistons, Rings, and Pins
Clean carbon from piston surfaces and under side of
piston heads. Clean carbon from ring grooves with a
suitable tool and remove any gum or varnish from
piston skirts with suitable solvent.
Carefully examine pistons for rough or scored bear-
ing surfaces, cracks in skirt, head cracked or broken
ring lands, and chipping or uneven wear which
would cause rings to seat improperly or have exces-
sive clearance in ring grooves. Damaged or faulty
pistons should be replaced.
Fitting Pistons to Cylinders
The pistons are cam ground, which means that the

6A. 201973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
diameter at the right angle to the piston pin is greater
than the diameter parallel to the piston pin. When a
piston is checked for size, it must be measured with
micrometers applied to the skirt at ,points 90 degrees
to the piston pin. See Figure
6A-32. The piston
should be measured (for fitting p&poses) 2
l/2 in-
ches below the top of piston.
MEASURE AT
Figure 6A-32
Measuring,PistonInspect bearing surfaces of piston pins. Check for
wear by measuring worn and unworn surfaces with
micrometers. Rough or worn pins should be re-
placed. Check fit of piston pins in piston bosses.
Occasionally pins will be found tight due to gum or
varnish deposits. This may be corrected by removing
the deposit with a suitable solveni. If piston bosses
are worn out-of-round or oversize, the piston and pin
assembly must be replaced. Oversize pins are not
practical because the pin is a press fit in the connect-
ing rod. Piston pins must tit the piston with
0X4”to
.OCHl7” clearance.
Examine all piston rings for scores, chips or cracks.
Check compression rings for tension by comparing
with new rings. Check gap of compression rings by
placing rings in bore at bottom of ring travel. Meas-
ure gap with feeler gage. Gap should be between
,011” and .02.1”. If gaps are excessive (over .021”) it
indicates the rings have worn considerably and
should be replaced.
No attempt should be made to cut down oversize
pistons to fit cylinder bores. This practice
will de-
stroy the surface treatment and affect the weight.
The
sma/Jest possible oversize service pistons shouId
be used and the cylinder
bores should be honed to
size for proper clearance.1. Before installing piston, piston rings, or reboring
cylinders, observe the following:Cylinder bores may not be the same size. Standard
replacement piston sizes are in the midpoint of the
cylinder bore size range. Therefore, it may be neces-
sary to hone cylinders for correct piston tit. Out-of-
round on cylinder bore must not exceed
.ooO5”maximum with a taper of not over
.OilO5”.Before the honing or reboring operation is started,
measure all new pistons with micrometer contacting
at points exactly 90 degrees to piston pin (Figure6A-32) then select the smallest piston for the first
fitting. The slight variation usually found between
pistons in a set may provide for correction if the first
piston has excessive clearance.
If wear of cylinder does not exceed
.005” honing is
recommended for truing the bore. If wear or
out-of-round exceeds these limits, the bore should be trued
up with a fly cutter boring bar and then finish honed.
When reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps
must be in place and tightened to proper torque to
avoid distortion ofbores in final assembly. Always be
certain the crankshaft is out of the way of the boring
cutter when boring each cylinder. When making thefinal cut with boring bar, leave
,001 w on the diameter
for finish honing to give the required clearance speci-
fied.When honing cylinders, use clean sharp stones of
proper grade for the required amount of metal to be
removed, in accordance with instructions of the hone
manufacturer. Dull or dirty stones cut unevenly and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse or
medium grade stones use care to leave sufficient
metal so that all stone marks may be removed with
the fine stones used for finishing in order to maintain
proper clearance.
When finish honing, pass the hone through the entire
length of cylinder at the rate of approximately 60
cycles per minute. This should produce the desired
45 degree cross hatch pattern on cylinder walls
which will insure maximum ring life and minimum
oil consumption.
It is of the greatest importance that refinished cylin-
der bores have not over
.0005” out-of-round or ta-
pered. Each bore must be final honed to remove all
stone or cutter marks and provide a smooth surface.
During final honing, each piston must be fitted in-
dividually to the bore in which it will be installed and
should be marked to insure correct installation.
After final honing and before the piston is checked
for fit, each cylinder bore must be thoroughly
washed to remove all traces of abrasive and then
dried. The dry bore should then be brushed clean
with a power-driven iibre brush. If all traces of abra-
sive are not removed, rapid wear of new pistons and
rings will result. Fit new pistons in the following
manner:

6A- 221973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALI. NO. I COMPRESSION - GAP IN FRONT
2. NO. 2 COMPRESSION - GAP IN REAR
3. UPPER STEEL BAND -
I - 2 IN.TOWARDS
THE LEFT OF INTERMEDIATE RING GAP
4. INTERMEDIATE RING - GAP IN FRONT
5. LOWER STEEL BAND -
I - 2 IN.TOWARDS
THE RIGHT OF INTERMEDIATE RING GAP.‘A” VERTICAL LINE FOR PISTON AND RINGS, FRONT
6A-36Figure 6A-36 Location of Piston Ring Gaps
With rings installed on piston, check clearance in
grooves by inserting feeler gages between each ring
and its Iower land. Any wear that occurs forms a
step at inner portion of the lower land. If the piston
grooves have worn to the extent that relatively high
steps exist on the lower lands, the piston should be
replaced since steps will interfere with the operation
of new rings causing ring clearances to become exces-
sive. Piston rings are not furnished in oversize widths
to compensate for ring groove wear.
When fitting new rings to new pistons, the side clear-
ance of the compression rings should be X024”
-
.1X34” (top) and .0013” - .OO24” (2nd), and the oil
ring clearance should be
.OO13” - .0024”.
Assembly of Piston and Connecting Rod
NOTE:Connecting rods may be out of alignment
due to shipping or
hand/i& Always check a new
rod before installing piston and pin.Inspect piston pin bores and piston pins for wear.
Piston pin bores and piston pins must be free of
varnish or scuffing when being measured. The piston
pin should be measured with a niicrometer and the
piston pin bore should be measured with a dial bore
gage or an inside micrometer. If clearance is in excess
of the
,001” wear limit, the piston and piston pin
assembly should be replaced.
1. Lubricate piston pin holes in piston and connect-
ing rod to facilitate installation of pin.
2. Install pin in following manner:
a. Position base support J-6047 on hydraulic press.b. Place tool J-23436-l in support J-6047 with small
diameter bore facing upward.
c. Place small end of tool J-23436-3 in bore of tool
J-23436- 1.d. Position piston, rod, and pin guide J-23436-3.
e. Line up pin on piston, and using tool J-23436-4
press pin into piston. See Figure 6A-37.
Ii-J-23436-4
J-23436-3--,J-23436-1
--cJ-6047
Figure 6A-37 Piston Pin Installation Tool Layout
- 1.9
Engine
3. Remove installer from connecting rod and piston
assembly and check piston for freedom of movement
on piston pin.
4. Make sure cylinder bores, pistons, connecting rod
bearings and crankshaft journals are absolutely
clean, then coat all bearing surfaces with engine oil.
5. Before installation of a piston and rod assembly in
its bore, position the crankpin straight down.
6. Remove connecting rod cap.
7. Make sure the gap in the oil ring rails and the gaps
of the compression rings are positioned correctly.
8. Lubricate the piston and rings and install in bore

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 231. NOTCH IN PISTON HEAD
POINTING TOWARD THE FRONT
2. OIL HOLE IN CONNECTING ROD
POINTING TOWARD THE RIGHT
(MANIFOLD SIDE)
3. NOTCH IN CONNECTING ROD
CAP POINTING TOWARD THE
REAR6A-36
Figure
6A-39 Piston and Rod Assemblyby oompressing the rings with a “wrap around” com-
pressor.9. Select a new connecting rod bearing, if necessary.
Otherwise install cap with bearing lower shell on rod
and tighten bolt nuts to 36
lb.ft. torque.
10. Install all other piston and rod assemblies in same
manner. When piston and rod assemblies are prop
erly installed, the oil spurt holes in the connecting
rods will be facing right.
11. Check end clearance between connecting rods in
each crankpin using feeler gages. Clearance should
be between
.0043” and .0095”.
12. Install cylinder head. Torque 10 cylinder head
bolts to 72 lb.ft (cold), and 2 cylinder head to timing
chain cover bolts to 17
lb.ft.13. Install new oil pan gasket by first installing flange
gasket with tabs in slots in rear main bearing cap and
engine front cover. Then install rubber strips in
grooves in rear main bearing cap and engine front
cover. Install oil pan, torquing bolts to 5 lb.ft.
14. Install (Opel
1900 and Manta) front suspension
assembly. (GT) Install engine suspension cross mem-
ber.After installation of new pistons and rings, care
should be used in starting the engine and in running
it for the first hour. Avoid high speeds until the parts
have had a reasonable amount of break-in so that
scuffling will not occur.
TIMING CHAIN COVER AND TIMING CHAIN
Timing Chain Cover Removal
1, Support engine in vehicle as outlined under Engine
Oil Pan Removal and Installation.
2. Remove radiator and shroud assembly
3. Remove cylinder head.
4. Remove alternator belt and remove alternator
mounting bracket.
5. Remove fuel pump
6. Remove ignition distributor.
7. Remove chain tensioner assembly out of timing
cover.8. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt and remove pulley.
9. Remove water pump assembly.
10. Remove oil pan
11. Remove timing chain cover bolts. One bolt is
covered by the water pump. See Figure 6A-39.
12. Pull off sprockets with chain. Put a paint mark
Figure 6A-39 Bolt Behind Water Pump

6A- 24 1973 OPEL SERVICE: MANUAL
on front side of timing chain to permit reinstallation
in original position.
Timing Chain Cover and Timing
Chain installation
Reinstall timing chain cover by reversing removal
procedures, pay particular attention to the following
points.
1. Clean all parts, check for wear and replace as
required. The Parts Department supplies either the two sprockets complete with chain or the chain
alone. It is not permissible to replace sprockets alone.
The chain tensioner is, with the, exception of the
tensioner body, only available as a complete unit.
2. Turn crankshaft so that key for sprocket is on top
and vertical. Assemble chain’, with camshaft
sprocket, then put chain on crankshaft sprocket al-
ready installed. Be sure paint dot
on chain is in front
so that chain moves in same direction as prior to
disassembly.
3. Make sure camshaft sprocket mark is in alignment
with mark on support and chain in parallel with
damper block.
4. To install new timing case oil seal, drive out oil
seal from the rear using a drift. Coat circumference
of oil seal sparingly with suitable sealer and press seal
in, using tool J-22924. Take care not to damage tim-
ing case. See Figure
6A-40. 5. Inspect chain tensioner for proper operation and
reusability.
6. Install timing case rubber gaskets to cylinder
block. Stick on with grease as necessary. Gaskets will
somewhat overlap with oil pan gasket.
7. Position timing cover onto guide pin in upper left
corner of cylinder block and insert centering bolt
through timing chain cover into lower right corner
of cylinder block. See Figure
6A-40A. No sealing is
required.
SA-40.4
Figure 6A-40A Installing Timing Chain Cover
INSTALLER
Figure 6A-40 Installing Timing Cover Oil Seal onProtector
It is not necessary to use crankshaft bolt to install
seal when cover is off engine. 8. Install cylinder head
After sprocket has been attached to camshaft, re-
check alignment
LO see that chain has not slipped. At
this time both No.
1 and No. 4 pistons will be at TDC
position. No. 4 piston will be in tiring position and
No. 1 piston up on exhaust stroke. To time engine to
fire on No. 1 cylinder, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
This will position the timing mark 180 degrees from
original alignment of camshaft sprocket and support
bracket, and will completely close No. 1 intake and
exhaust valves. Also, the timing mark on the fly-
wheel
(ball) and cylinder block (pointer) will coin-
cide. See Figure
6A-41.
Replacing Timing Cover Oil Seal
(Engine Installed)
1. Remove fan belts.
2. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt and remove pulley. 3. Insert screwdriver behind seal and rest screw-
driver on crankshaft pin. Pry out oil seal.