jacking OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Owner's Manual

14Front brake disc shield -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
2Remove the brake disc, as described in
Section 10.
3Using a screwdriver inserted through the
holes in the hub flange, extract the three
screws securing the disc shield to the hub
carrier.
4Using plate shears or an alternative tool, cut
a section of metal from the rear edge of the
shield to enable the shield to be withdrawn
over the hub, then remove the shield (see
illustration).
Refitting
5If a new shield is to be fitted, cut out a
section of metal, as during removal of the old
shield, to enable the shield to be fitted.
Smooth the cut edges, and coat them with
anti-corrosion paint.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Refit the brake disc, as described in
Section 10.
8Do not fully tighten the roadwheel bolts until
the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
15Master cylinder - removal and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depress the footbrake pedal several times
to dissipate the vacuum in the servo unit.3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
fluid level sensor in the reservoir filler cap.
4If possible, use a teat pipette or an old
hydrometer to remove the brake fluid from the
reservoir. This will reduce the loss of fluid later
in the procedure.
5Locate a container beneath the master
cylinder, to catch the brake fluid that will be
released.
6Identify the brake fluid pipes for position,
then unscrew the union nuts and disconnect
the pipes from the master cylinder.
7Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
withdraw the master cylinder from the studs
on the vacuum servo unit (see illustration).
8Clean the external surfaces of the cylinder,
then using a screwdriver carefully prise the
fluid reservoir and its seals from the top of the
cylinder.
9If desired, on models without ABS, the
master cylinder can be overhauled, as
described in Section 16.
10No overhaul of the master cylinder is
possible on models with ABS, see Section 17.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new seals when fitting the brake fluid
reservoir, and on completion, bleed the
complete brake hydraulic system, as
described in Section 3.
16Master cylinder (non-ABS) -
overhaul
4
Note: Before dismantling the master cylinder,
check that replacement parts can be obtained
and retain the old components to compare
them with the new ones
1With the master cylinder removed as
described in Section 15, continue as follows,
according to type.
GMF type master cylinder
2Clamp the master cylinder in a soft-jawed
vice.
3Where applicable, unscrew the pressure-
proportioning valves from the base of the
cylinder.4Carefully prise out the sealing ring from the
end of the cylinder bore.
5Depress the primary piston slightly using a
piece of wood or plastic. Then hold the piston
in the depressed position by inserting a
smooth pin or rod of 3.0 mm (0.12 in) diameter
through the primary fluid reservoir port in the
cylinder (see illustration).
6Extract the circlip from the end of the
cylinder bore using a screwdriver. Take care
not to damage the piston or cylinder bore.
7Withdraw the pin or rod retaining the piston.
8Withdraw the primary piston assembly from
the cylinder, if necessary tapping the cylinder
on a wooden block to free the piston from the
bore.
9Apply low air pressure - e.g. from a foot
pump - to the front fluid reservoir port in the
cylinder, to eject the secondary piston
assembly.
10Clean all the components, in clean brake
fluid or methylated spirit only, and examine
them for wear and damage. In particular,
check the surfaces of the pistons and cylinder
bore for scoring and corrosion. If the bore
shows signs of wear, renew the complete
master cylinder assembly (see illustration).
11If the cylinder bore is in good condition,
obtain a repair kit, which will contain all the
necessary renewable items. A Vauxhall dealer
will supply a pre-assembled kit of parts, which
should be fitted as follows.
12Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean
brake fluid or brake grease, then clamp the
cylinder in a soft-jawed vice, with the bore
horizontal.
13Remove the plug from the end of the
assembly tube, and insert the short part of the
tube into the cylinder bore as far as the
shoulder on the tube.
14Use a piece of wood or plastic to push the
components out of the tube and into the
cylinder bore. Then hold the primary piston in
the depressed position by inserting the pin or
rod used during dismantling through the
cylinder primary fluid reservoir port.
15Fit a new circlip to the end of the cylinder
bore, ensuring that it seats correctly, and that
the piston is free to move.
16Depress the primary piston, and withdraw
the pin or rod from the fluid reservoir port.
Braking system 9•13
16.5 Holding the primary piston depressed
while extracting the circlip from the
cylinder body - GMF type master cylinder15.7 Master cylinder securing nut
(arrowed)14.4 Cutting a section of metal from a new
front brake disc shield prior to fitting
9

16If adjustment is necessary, slacken the
locknut, turn the fork to give the specified
dimension, then tighten the locknut.
17Where applicable, coat the contact faces
of the servo and the mounting bracket with
sealing compound, then refit the bracket to
the servo, and tighten the securing nuts to the
specified torque.
18Coat the threads of the servo securing
bolts with locking fluid, then fit the servo to
the bulkhead and tighten the securing bolts.
19Refit the securing bolt cover plugs to the
cowl panel.
20Refit the master cylinder to the servo, and
tighten the securing nuts to the specified
torque.
21Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the servo.
22Refit the coolant expansion tank, as
described in Chapter 3.
23Refit the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage as described in Chapter 12, then refit
the windscreen cowl panel.
24Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
On completion, test the operation of the
servo, as described in Section 18.
20ABS hydraulic modulator -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2, and the note at the
beginning of Section 3, before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
3Remove the securing screw, and withdraw
the plastic cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
4Remove the two clamp screws, and lift off
the modulator wiring harness clamp (see
illustration).
5Disconnect the modulator wiring plug,
levering it from the socket with a screwdriver if
necessary.6Unscrew the brake fluid pipe union nuts,
and disconnect the pipes from the modulator.
Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the
open ends to prevent dirt ingress and further
fluid loss. Move the pipes just clear of the
modulator, taking care not to strain them.
7Unscrew the three modulator securing nuts
(see illustration), then tilt the modulator
slightly, and withdraw it upwards from its
bracket, sufficiently to gain access to the
earth lead securing nut at the front lower edge
of the modulator.
8Unscrew the securing nut and disconnect
the earth lead, then withdraw the modulator
from the vehicle, taking care not to spill brake
fluid on the vehicle paintwork.
9If a new modulator is to be fitted, pull the
two relays from the top of the old modulator,
and transfer them to the new unit. No attempt
must be made to dismantle the modulator.
Refitting
10Before refitting the modulator, check that
the bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
body panel are tight, and that the modulator
rubber mountings are in good condition.
Renew the rubber mountings if necessary.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Make sure that the earth lead is
reconnected before fitting the modulator to its
mounting bracket.13On completion, remove the polythene
sheet from the brake fluid reservoir filler neck,
and bleed the complete brake hydraulic
system, as described in Section 3.
14Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after the modulator has been removed. At the
earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
21ABS wheel sensors - removal
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Front wheel sensor
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
3Unclip the sensor wiring connector from the
retaining clip under the wheel arch, then
separate the two halves of the wiring
connector, prising them apart with a
screwdriver if necessary (see illustration).
4Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the bolt securing the wheel sensor to its
mounting bracket, then carefully lever the
sensor from the bracket using a screwdriver
(see illustration). Recover the seal ring.
Refitting
5Examine the condition of the seal ring, and
renew if necessary.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Smear a little grease on the sensor casing
before fitting it to the bracket.
8Do not fully tighten the roadwheel bolts until
the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
9Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after a wheel sensor has been removed. At
9•16Braking system
20.4 ABS hydraulic modulator (cover
removed)
1 Wiring harness
clamp screws2 Earth lead
3 Relays
21.3 Front wheel sensor wiring under
wheelarch - DOHC model
1 ABS sensor connector
2 Disc pad wear sensor wiring connector
21.4 ABS front wheel sensor securing bolt
(arrowed) - DOHC model20.7 ABS hydraulic modulator securing
screws (arrowed)

the earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
Rear wheel sensor
Removal
10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
12Unclip the sensor wiring connector from
the retaining clip on the rear underbody, then
separate the two halves of the wiring
connector, prising them apart with a
screwdriver if necessary (see illustration).
13Note the routing of the sensor wiring, and,
where applicable, release it from the clips on
the underbody.
14Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the bolt securing the wheel sensor to the
trailing arm (or the mounting bracket on
DOHC models), then carefully lever the sensor
from its location using a screwdriver (see
illustration). Recover the seal ring.
Refitting
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 5 to 9
inclusive.
22ABS electronic control
module - removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
ABS-2E systems
Removal
1Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then
disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The control module is located under a
cover in the passenger sill, to the left-hand
side of the seat.
3Extract the three securing screws, and lift
the cover from the control module. Note that
two of the screws are covered by plastic trim
plugs. 4Lift the control module from its recess, then
release the retaining clip and disconnect the
module wiring plug. Withdraw the module
(see illustrations).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after the module has been removed. At the
earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
ABS-2EH systems
Removal
7Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then
disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Remove the cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
9Disconnect both the wiring harness and
solenoid valve connectors.
10Relays can only be removed from control
units that have slanted covers (see
illustration). The relays for the solenoid valve
and pump motor, if removable, can now be
removed. If the unit has a flat cover, and is
faulty, the whole unit will have to be replaced.
11Undo fixing bolts and remove the control
unit.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer
also to paragraph 6.
23ABS relays (ABS-2E systems
only) - removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
For ABS-2EH system relays, refer to
paragraphs 7 to 12, in Section 22.
Solenoid valve and pump motor
relays
Removal
1The solenoid valve and pump motor relays
are mounted on the hydraulic modulator.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the plastic cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
4Pull out the appropriate relay. The small
relay is for the solenoid valve, and the large
relay is for the pump motor.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after a relay has been removed. At the earliest
opportunity, take the vehicle to a Vauxhall
dealer, and have the complete system tested,
using the dedicated ABS test equipment.
Surge arrester relay
Removal
7The surge arrester relay is located in the
relay box at the left rear of the engine
compartment.
Braking system 9•17
22.4A Lift out the ABS control module . . .22.10 ABS-2EH control unit
1 Slanted cover type 2 Flat cover type22.4B . . . and release the wiring plug
retaining clip - ABS-2E system
21.14 ABS rear wheel sensor (arrowed) -
DOHC model21.12 ABS rear wheel sensor wiring
connectors (arrowed) on rear underbody -
DOHC model`
9

8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Unclip the lid and open the relay box, then
pull out the relay (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to paragraph 6.
24Rear brake pressure-
proportioning valves -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding. Note also that
the valve must only be renewed in pairs, and
both valves must be of the same calibration.
Ensure that correct type of valves are fitted.
The bodies have been stamped for easier
identification.
Master cylinder-mounted valves
Removal
1Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
2Locate a container beneath the master
cylinder, to catch the brake fluid that will be
released.
3Identify the two lower brake pipes for
position, then unscrew the union nuts and
disconnect the pipes from the proportioning
valves in the base of the master cylinder. Plug
the open ends of the pipes to prevent dirt
ingress.
4Unscrew the proportioning valves from the
master cylinder, and plug the open ends of
the cylinder to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, remove the polythene from the
brake fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed the
complete hydraulic system, as described in
Section 3.
Rear underbody-mounted valves
Removal
6Proceed as described in paragraph 1.
7Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) positioned under the body side
members.
8Working under the rear of the vehicle,
unscrew the union nut and disconnect the
brake pipe from one of the valves. Be
prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the open
end of the pipe to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid spillage.
9Similarly, disconnect the flexible hose from
the valve.
10Pull the valve retaining clip from the
bracket on the underbody, noting that on
certain models, the retaining clip also secures
the ABS sensor wiring, and withdraw the valve
(see illustration).
11Repeat the procedure for the other valve.
Refitting
12Proceed as described in paragraph 5.
25Brake fluid pipes and hoses
- general, removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3, before proceeding.
General
1When checking the condition of the
system’s pipes and/or hoses, carefully check
that they do not foul other components such
as the power steering gear pipes (where
applicable), so that there is no risk of the
pipes chafing. If necessary use clips or ties to
secure braking system pipes and hoses well
clear of other components.
Rigid pipes
Removal
2Some of the commonly used brake pipes
can be obtained from Vauxhall parts dealers,
ready-formed and complete with unions, but
other brake pipes must be prepared using
4.75 mm (0.19 in) diameter brake pipe. Kits for
making the brake pipes can be obtained from
certain motor accessory shops.
3Before removing a brake pipe, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap, and secure a piece
of polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid when the pipe is
disconnected.4Jack up the vehicle, and support securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) positioned under the body side
members.
5To remove a brake pipe, unscrew the
unions at each end, and release the pipe from
the retaining clips.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, taking
care not to overtighten the unions.
7On completion, remove the polythene from
the brake fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed
the relevant hydraulic circuit(s), as described
in Section 3.
Flexible hoses
Removal
8Proceed as described previously for the
rigid pipes, but note that a flexible pipe must
never be installed twisted, although a slight
“set” is permissible to give it clearance from
adjacent components.
Refitting
9When reconnecting a flexible hose to a
front brake caliper, note that the sealing rings
on the union bolt must be renewed.
26Handbrake - adjustment
2
Models with rear drum brakes
1The handbrake will normally be kept in
correct adjustment by the self-adjusting
action of the rear brake shoes. However, due
to cable stretch over a period of time, the
travel of the handbrake lever may become
excessive, in which case the following
operations should be carried out.
2Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
3Fully release the handbrake.
4Turn the knurled nut on the cable adjuster
(mounted on the torsion beam), until the brake
shoes can just be heard to rub when the rear
wheels are turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation (see illustration).
9•18Braking system
23.9 ABS surge arrester relay (arrowed)
26.4 Handbrake cable adjuster. Knurled
nut arrowed - all SOHC models24.10 Brake pressure-proportioning valve
on rear underbody - DOHC model
1 Valve 2 Retaining clip

5Loosen the adjuster nut until the wheels are
just free to turn.
6The handbrake must start to operate with
the lever on the second notch of the ratchet.
7On completion of adjustment, check the
handbrake cables for free movement, and
apply a little grease to the adjuster threads to
prevent corrosion.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Models with rear disc brakes
9Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
10Pull the handbrake lever as far as the
second notch on the ratchet.
11On DOHC models fitted with a catalytic
converter, unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the exhaust centre box heat shield
by carefully sliding it round the centre box.
12On all SOHC models, loosen the knurled
nut on the cable adjuster (mounted on the
torsion beam).
13On DOHC models, loosen the nut
securing the cable equaliser yoke to the
handbrake lever operating rod.
14Using a screwdriver inserted through the
adjuster hole in one of the discs/hubs (see
illustration), turn the adjuster wheel until the
brake shoes can just be heard to rub when the
disc/hub is turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation.
15Turn the adjuster wheel back until the
disc/hub is just free to turn.
16Repeat paragraphs 14 and 15 on the
remaining side of the vehicle.
17Tighten the nut on the cable adjuster or
the equaliser, as applicable, until the brakeshoes just begin to operate. Check that the
shoes operate equally on both wheels.
18Fully release the handbrake, then apply it
again.
19The discs/hubs must lock when the
handbrake lever reaches the sixth notch on
the ratchet. If necessary, turn the nut on the
cable adjuster or equaliser, as applicable, to
achieve this.
20Where applicable, refit the exhaust heat
shield.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
27Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1The handbrake cable is in two sections. The
longer section runs from the handbrake
operating rod, through the adjuster, to the
right-hand brake assembly. The shorter
section runs from the adjuster to the left-hand
brake assembly. The two sections of the cable
can be renewed independently.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim(s),
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts.
Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel(s).
3Note the routing of the handbrake cable(s),
as an aid to refitting.
4Remove the relevant brake drum(s), with
reference to Section 11.
Longer cable
Removal
5Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod.
6Disconnect the cable from the handbrake
lever operating rod on the vehicle underbody
(see illustration).
7Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody. Note that the cable can be fed
through certain guides, but in some cases, the
guide brackets must be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cable to be withdrawn.
8Detach the cable from the adjuster on the
torsion beam.
9Unhook the cable end from the lever on the
brake shoe, then using a screwdriver, prise
out the lockplate that secures the handbrake
cable in the backplate.
10Withdraw the cable from the vehicle,
releasing it from the guide on the torsion
beam.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Screw the adjuster nut onto the threaded
rod to the position noted before removal.
13Ensure that the handbrake cable is routed
as noted before removal.
14Refit the brake drum, (Section 11).
15Before refitting the roadwheel(s) and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
Shorter cable
Removal
16Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod. Continue as described in
paragraphs 8 to 10.
Braking system 9•19
27.6 Handbrake cable connection to handbrake lever operating
rod
1 Handbrake cable
2 Connecting link3 Handbrake lever operating rod26.14 Using a screwdriver to turn the handbrake adjuster wheel -
model with rear disc brakes
9

Refitting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 15 inclusive.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC)
General
18The procedure is as described for models
with rear drum brakes, remembering the
following points.
19Ignore the references to removal and
refitting of the brake drum.
20Note that there is no lockplate securing
the handbrake cable to the brake backplate,
but the return spring must be unhooked from
the cable end.
21On models with a catalytic converter,
when removing the longer cable, unscrew the
four securing nuts and withdraw the exhaust
centre box heat shield by carefully sliding it
round the centre box.
DOHC models
Removal
22The left and right-hand handbrake cables,
and the equaliser yoke, are removed as an
assembly on DOHC models.
23Loosen the rear roadwheel bolts, then
chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
24Note the routing of the handbrake cables,
as an aid to refitting.
25On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
26Note the length of exposed thread at the
cable equaliser yoke, then unscrew the
securing nut and disconnect the equaliser
yoke from the handbrake lever operating rod.
27Unhook the cable ends from the brake
shoe operating levers and the return springs
(see illustration).
28Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody and the semi-trailing arms. Note
that the cables can be fed through certainguides, but in some cases, the guide brackets
may have to be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cables to be
withdrawn.
29Withdraw the cables and equaliser
assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
30Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
31Use a new self-locking nut to secure the
equaliser yoke to the handbrake lever
operating rod, and screw the nut onto the rod
to the position noted before removal.
32Ensure that the cables are routed as
noted before removal.
33Before refitting the roadwheels and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
28Handbrake lever - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Jack up the vehicle, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned securely under the body side
members.
3On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
4On all SOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable adjuster
on the torsion beam, then slacken the adjuster
to enable the cable to be disconnected from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Disconnect the
cable from the operating rod and slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
5On DOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable
equaliser yoke, then unscrew the securing nut
and disconnect the equaliser yoke from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
6Remove the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.7Remove the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
8Access to the handbrake lever-to-floor
mounting bolts is provided by slits in the
carpet. If no slits are provided, either carefully
cut some, or release and fold back the carpet.
9Unscrew the mounting bolts, and withdraw
the handbrake lever sufficiently to disconnect
the handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
wiring (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wiring and withdraw the
handbrake lever and operating rod from the
vehicle.
11A worn ratchet segment can be renewed
by driving the securing sleeve from the
handbrake lever, using a metal rod or a bolt of
similar diameter (see illustration).
12Drive the new sleeve supplied with the
new segment into the lever to permit a little
play between the segment and lever.
13If desired, a new pawl can be fitted if the
original pivot rivet is drilled out (see
illustration).
14Rivet the new pawl so that the pawl is still
free to move.
15The handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
can be removed from the lever assembly after
unscrewing the securing bolt.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
17Refit the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
18Refit the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.
9•20Braking system
28.13 Drilling out the handbrake lever pawl
pivot pin
28.11 Driving out the handbrake lever
ratchet segment securing sleeve28.9 Handbrake lever securing bolts
(arrowed)27.27 Handbrake cable end fitting at brake
shoe - DOHC model
1 Operating lever
2 Cable bracket on semi-trailing arm

9Fuel filter (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel filter is located on the fuel pump
bracket under the rear of the vehicle. Either on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustrations).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the filter is removed.
4Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
filter, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses are
disconnected.
5Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the filter. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
6Loosen the clamp bolt(s), and withdraw the
fuel filter from its bracket. Note the orientation
of the flow direction arrow on the body of the
filter, and the position of the “AUS” (out)
marking on the filter end face.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the flow direction markings are correctly
orientated.
8Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
10Fuel filter (‘In-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8).
2Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands
placed under the body side members. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). The fuel filter
is located at the rear of the fuel tank, on the
right-hand side.3Unclip the fuel hose from the filter mounting
bracket.
4Note carefully any markings on the fuel filter
casing. There should be at least an arrow
(showing the direction of fuel flow) pointing in
the direction of the fuel supply hose leading to
the engine compartment. There may also be
the words “EIN” (in) and “AUS” (out)
embossed in the appropriate end of the
casing.
5Clamp the fuel filter hoses, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the hoses.
6Undo the single screw to release the
mounting bracket, then open the clamp with a
screwdriver to remove the fuel filter (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Fit the new fuel filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but ensure that the fuel
flow direction arrow or markings point in the
correct direction. Switch on the ignition and
check carefully for leaks; if any signs of
leakage are detected, the problem must be
rectified before the engine is started.
11Fuel pump - testing
2
Testing
1If the fuel pump is functioning, it should be
possible to hear it “buzzing” by listening
under the rear of the vehicle when the ignition
is switched on. Unless the engine is started,
the fuel pump should switch off after
approximately one second. If the noise
produced is excessive, this may be due to a
faulty fuel flow damper. The damper can be
renewed referring to Section 18, if necessary.
2If the pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay.
3To test the fuel pump, special equipment is
required, and it is recommended that any
suspected faults are referred to a Vauxhall
dealer.
12Fuel pump (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel pump is located on a bracket
under the rear of the vehicle, either on the
right-hand side of the spare wheel well or in
front of the fuel tank on other models.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the fuel
pump (see illustration).
5Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
damper, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses
are disconnected.
6Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the pump. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
7Loosen the clamp bolt, and slide the pump
from its bracket.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the pump is fitted the correct way round
in its bracket. Push the pump into the rubber
clamping sleeve as far as the rim on the pump
body (see illustration).
4B•6Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
9.1A Fuel filter (arrowed) - ‘out of tank’,
fuel pump models10.6 Fuel filter - ‘in tank’, fuel pump type
A Clamp screwB Hose clips
12.4 Disconnecting a fuel pump wiring
plug - ‘out of tank’, fuel pump model
9.1B Fuel component assembly - ‘out of
tank’, fuel pump models
1 Fuel filter
2 Fuel flow damper3 Fuel pump

4B
9Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
13Fuel pump (‘In-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8),
then remove and refit the fuel filler cap to
ensure that the pressure is equalised inside
and outside the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
3Fold forwards the rear seat cushion. Peel
back the floor covering beneath it, then
remove the cover plug from the vehicle floor
to reach the pump mountings (see
illustration).
4Noting exactly how it is connected, and
making your own marks or notes to ensure
that it can be reconnected the same way
round, disconnect the wiring plug from the
pump.
5Release the securing clip and disconnect
the fuel hose from the pump. Clamp or plug
the hose to prevent the loss of fuel and the
entry of dirt.
6Undo the pump mounting bracket screws,
then withdraw the mounting bracket and
pump assembly from the tank. Note the
position of the sealing ring and discard it, then
cover the tank opening as a safety measure
and to prevent the entry of dirt.
7If the pump is to be renewed, first move it to
a clean working area and carry out the
following.
8Prise off the filter at the base of the pump
assembly, then release the securing clamp
and disconnect the mounting
bracket-to-pump fuel hose.
9Making your own marks or notes to ensure
that they can be reconnected the same way
round, unsolder the wires connecting the
pump to the mounting bracket.
10Press the pump out of the rubber sleeve.
Refitting
11Reassembly and refitting are the reverse
of the removal and dismantling procedures,
noting the following points.a)Ensure that the pump is seated correctly
in the sleeve and that the hose is securely
fastened.
b)Ensure that the wires are correctly
reconnected and securely soldered.
c)Always renew the pump mounting
bracket’s sealing ring.
d)Apply a few drops of sealing compound
(i.e. Vauxhall part no. 90485251) to the
threads of the screws, then tighten them
securely, but take care not to distort the
sealing ring.
14Fuel pump relay - renewal
2
The relay is mounted in the engine
compartment relay box (Chapter 12). Where
more than one relay is fitted, the fuel pump
relay is the one with the black base.
15Fuel tank filler pipe - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Syphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
into a clean container that is designed for
carrying petrol and is clearly marked as such.
2Raise the bottom edge of the seal
surrounding the filler neck and undo the single
securing screw beneath.
3Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4Unscrew the single filler pipe mounting bolt
from the underbody, then work along the
length of the pipe, cutting or releasing any
clips or ties securing other pipes or hoses to
it. Releasing their clips, disconnect the filler
and vent hoses from the pipe’s lower end and
the small-bore vent hoses from the unions at
its upper end.
5Having ensured that all components have
been removed or disconnected which mightprevent its removal, manoeuvre the pipe away
from the vehicle’s underside.
6To check the operation of the pipe’s
anti-leak valve, invert the filler pipe and fill the
lower union (now uppermost) with petrol. If
the valve is functioning correctly, no petrol will
leak from the other union. If petrol leaks from
the other union the valve is faulty and the
complete filler pipe must be renewed.
Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following.
a)Check the condition of all hoses and
clips, renewing any components that are
found to be worn or damaged
b)When reconnecting the small-bore vent
hoses to the unions at the pipe’s upper
end, connect the hose from the charcoal
canister to the uppermost union and the
vent hose from the tank itself to the lower
union (see illustration).
c)Replacing any that were cut on removal
use the clips or ties provided to secure
any other pipes or hoses to the filler pipe.
d)Check carefully for signs of leaks on
refilling the tank; if any signs of leakage
are detected, the problem must be
rectified immediately.
16Fuel tank - removal and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1The procedure is similar as for models with
carburettors. Refer to Chapter 4A, however
note the following:
a)Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8).
b)On models with C16 NZ and X16 SZ
engines, disconnect the exhaust system
from the manifold.
c)When working on the fuel tank sender
unit, note that there is only one hose to be
disconnected.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•7
15.7 Vent hose connections at fuel tank
filler pipe
A Charcoal canister hose
B Tank vent hose
13.3 Fuel pump - ‘in-tank’, fuel pump
model
A Wiring connector
B Fuel hose clampC Mounting bracket
screws
12.8 Fuel pump clamping sleeve should
rest against rim (arrowed)

d)Disconnect the fuel pump hose and wiring
as described in Section 12.
e)When releasing the tank mounting straps,
note that the fuel filter must either be
moved aside or removed completely,
whichever is most convenient
f)One of the fuel hoses connects to a pipe
in the side of the tank.
DOHC models
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
4Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
placed under the body side members (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Open the fuel filler flap, then pull back the
rubber seal to expose the fuel filler pipe
securing screw (see illustration). Remove the
screw.
6Release the fuel tank vent hoses from the
clips on the underbody.
7Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack, with an interposed block of wood.
8Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps. Then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the fuel
hoses, vent hoses and fuel tank sender unit
wiring to be disconnected (see illustration).
9Disconnect the vent hoses and the fuel tank
sender unit wiring. Note the positions of the
vent hoses as an aid to refitting.
10Disconnect the fuel hoses from the tank and
the fuel tank sender unit, making a note of the
hose positions for use when refitting. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
11Lower the fuel tank, and withdraw it from
under the vehicle.
12If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel tank sender unit, as described
in Section 17. This procedure should be
carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is
vital to take adequate fire precautions - refer
to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning
of this manual for further details.
Refitting
13Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately, and
rectify the problem without delay.
17Fuel tank sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1Remove the fuel tank, (refer to Section 16),
if necessary. Note that there is only one hose
connected to the sender unit. This must also
be disconnected from the union on the inside
of the unit before it can be withdrawn
completely from the tank (see illustration).
DOHC models
2Remove the fuel tank, as described in
Section 16.
3Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.
4To remove the sender unit, an improvised
tool must be used which engages with thecut-outs in the sender unit retaining ring. The
Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for this purpose
is shown (see illustration).
5Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
6Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Renew the sealing ring.
9Ensure that the marks made on sender unit
and fuel tank before removal are aligned.
10Refit the fuel tank, (Section 16).
18Fuel flow damper - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel flow damper is located on the fuel
pump bracket under the rear of the vehicle, on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustration). The damper is positioned in
the fuel feed line between the fuel pump and
the fuel filter, and its purpose is to reduce
pressure fluctuations in the fuel return line,
thus reducing noise levels.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4B•8Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
16.5 Fuel filler pipe securing screw
(arrowed) - models with semi-trailing arm
rear axles17.1 Fuel level sender unit - models with
semi-independent rear axles
18.1 Fuel flow damper - models with semi-
trailing arm rear axles17.4 Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for
removing fuel level sender units
16.8 Fuel tank mounting - models with
semi-trailing arm rear axles
1 Strap securing bolt 2 Vent hose securing

regulator vacuum pipe should be routed over
the top of the camshaft cover breather hoses.
21On models with the Multec system note
also the following:
a)Fit the new diaphragm so that it locates in
the throttle body groove.
b)Ensure that the spring and spring seat are
correctly engaged with each other and
with the diaphragm and regulator cover.
Then press the cover over its locating
dowels and hold it in place while the
screws are tightened.
c)Tighten the screws carefully to the
specified torque wrench setting.
22On completion, check the regulator for
leaks, pressurising the system by switching
the ignition on and off several times, before
the engine is started.
22Idle speed adjuster - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Idle speed adjustment on models fitted
with Multec systems, is not possible, as it is
controlled by the ECU. Refer to Section 1.
Removal
SOHC models (except Multec system)
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed adjuster (see illustration).
3The adjuster can be removed complete with
its connecting hoses, or separately, leaving
the hoses in place.4Loosen the relevant clamp screws, then
disconnect the hoses, and withdraw the idle
speed adjuster (see illustration).
DOHC models
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Loosen the clamp screw, and disconnect
the hose from underneath the air box on the
throttle body. Remove the clamp from the
hose.
7Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
8Remove the engine undershield, as
described in Chapter 11.
9Working underneath the vehicle,
disconnect the wiring plug from the idle speed
adjuster, which is located underneath the inlet
manifold above the starter motor (see
illustration).
10Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the remaining idle speed adjuster hose from
the inlet manifold, then withdraw the adjuster
downwards complete with the hoses.
11If the hoses are to be removed from the
adjuster, mark their locations before removal
so that they can be correctly reconnected.
Once the adjuster has been refitted, it is
impossible to swap the hose positions.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
DOHC models ensure that the idle speed
adjuster rests horizontally, with the wiring
routed over the top of the coolant hose. If thewiring is routed under the coolant hose, this
may cause the idle speed adjuster to be bent
downwards, resulting in a restriction or
fracture in the air hose to the inlet manifold.
23Throttle position sensor -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
SOHC models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor (see illustration).
3Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the sensor from the throttle body
(see illustration).
DOHC models
4Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring.
6Loosen the clamp screw securing the air
trunking to the right-hand end of the air mass
meter.
7Using an Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the four bolts securing the air box to the
throttle body. Lift the air box from the throttle
body, and disconnect the hose from the base
of the air box, then withdraw the air box/air
mass meter assembly.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor wiring plug (see illustration).
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•11
22.9 Idle speed adjuster (arrowed) viewed
from underneath vehicle -
DOHC model
23.8 Disconnecting the throttle position
sensor wiring plug - DOHC model23.3 Removing a throttle position sensor
securing screw - SOHC early model23.2 Disconnecting the throttle position
sensor wiring plug - early SOHC models
22.4 Withdrawing the idle speed adjuster
complete with hoses - SOHC model
(except with Multec systems)22.2 Disconnecting the idle speed adjuster
wiring plug - SOHC models (except with
Multec systems)
4B