jacking OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Owner's Guide

test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If, for
example, a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine. It may also prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work is
carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”)
b)Check all the engine related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”)
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 18 and 22, as
appropriate).
d)Renew the spark plugs (Sections 30 and
37, as appropriate).
e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and
HT leads, as applicable (Section 31).
f)Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 27).
g)Check the fuel filter (Section 29).
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 4).i)Check the idle speed and mixture
settings, as applicable (Section 9).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c)Check the fuel system (Chapters 4A and
4B).
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 31).
e)Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 31).
3Engine oil and filter - renewal
2
1Ideally, the oil should be drained with the
engine hot, just after the vehicle has been
driven.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield to expose the sump drain plug
and the oil filter.
3Place a container beneath the oil drain plug
at the rear of the sump.
4Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover, then using a socket or spanner,
unscrew the oil drain plug, and allow the oil to
drain (see illustration). Take care to avoid
scalding if the oil is hot.
5Allow ten to fifteen minutes for the oil to
drain completely, then move the container
and position it under the oil filter.6On 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, improved
access to the oil filter can be gained by
jacking up the front of the vehicle and
removing the right-hand roadwheel (see
illustration). Ensure that the handbrake is
applied, and that the vehicle is securely
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”). Note that further oil may
drain from the sump as the vehicle is raised.
7Using a strap wrench or a filter removal tool
if necessary, slacken the filter and unscrew it
from the mounting. Alternatively, if the filter is
very tight, a screwdriver can be driven
through the filter casing and used as a lever.
Discard the filter.
8Wipe the mating face on the filter mounting
with a lint-free rag, then smear the sealing ring
of the new filter with clean engine oil of the
specified grade.
9Screw the new filter into position and
tighten it by hand only, do not use any tools.
10Where applicable, refit the roadwheel and
lower the vehicle to the ground. Fully tighten
the roadwheel bolts with the vehicle resting on
its wheels.
11Examine the condition of the oil drain plug
sealing ring and renew if necessary, then refit
the drain plug and tighten it to the specified
torque. 12Refill the engine through the filler on the
camshaft cover, using the specified grade and
quantity of oil. Fill until the level reaches the
“MAX” mark on the dipstick, allowing time for
the oil to drain through the engine to the
sump.
13Refit the oil filler cap, then start the engine
and check for leaks. Note that the oil pressure
warning lamp may stay illuminated for a few
seconds when the engine is started as the oil
filter fills with oil.
14Stop the engine and recheck the oil level,
topping-up if necessary.
15On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield.
16Dispose of the old engine oil safely; do not
pour it down a drain.
4Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Remember that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
manual.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•9
3.6 Oil filter viewed through right-hand
wheel arch - SOHC model3.4 Sump drain plug location -
2.0 litre DOHC model
(engine undershield removed)
1
Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away quickly so the stream
of oil, running out of the
sump, goes into the container not up
your sleeve (see illustration).
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in
place, and in good condition. Clips that are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause
more serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose that is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks. It is always beneficial to renew
hose clips whenever possible.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks.
5Where any problems are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
with reference to Chapter 3.
6Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
7With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
8Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
9From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
10Where applicable, check the condition of
the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.5Steering and suspension
check
2
Front suspension and steering
check
1Raise the front of the car, and support on
axle stands (“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for
splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of
these components will cause loss of lubricant,
together with dirt and water entry, resulting in
rapid wear of the balljoints or steering gear.
3On vehicles with power steering, check the
fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and
the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint
is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
6Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7Inspect the front suspension lower arms for
distortion or damage (Chapter 10, Section 5).
8With the car standing on its wheels, have an
assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and the rack-
and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/shock
absorber check
Note:Suspension struts/shock absorbers
should always be renewed in pairs on the
same axle.9Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or
from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod.
Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension
strut/shock absorber is defective internally,
and should be renewed.
10The efficiency of the suspension
strut/shock absorber may be checked by
bouncing the vehicle at each corner. The body
will return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut/shock
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper
and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
6Driveshaft gaiter check
2
With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands, turn the steering onto
full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
the gaiters to open out the folds (see
illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits or deterioration of the rubber, which
may allow the grease to escape, and lead to
water and grit entry into the joint. Also check
the security and condition of the retaining
clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV
joints. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the gaiters should be renewed as described in
Chapter 8.
1•10Every 9000 miles or 12 months
6.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft
gaiters (A) and clips (B)
5.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by
grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

the cylinder head above the camshaft(s)
through a hose. From here the gases are
drawn into the inlet manifold/throttle body (as
applicable) and/or the air box on the
carburettor (where applicable), where they are
re-burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture, hence
reducing harmful exhaust emissions.
Maintenance
3Certain models have a mesh filter inside the
camshaft cover, which should be cleaned in
paraffin if clogging is evident (see
illustration).
4On high mileage vehicles, particularly when
regularly used for short journeys, a jelly-like
deposit may be evident inside the crankcase
ventilation system hoses. If excessive
deposits are present, the relevant hose(s)
should be removed and cleaned.
5Periodically inspect the system hoses for
security and damage, and renew as
necessary. Note that damaged or loose hoses
can cause various engine running problems
that can be difficult to trace.
6The crankcase breather/dipstick tube can
be unbolted from the cylinder block after
disconnecting the hose. Use a new gasket
when refitting.
3Compression test -
description
3
Description
1If engine performance is poor, or if misfiring
occurs which cannot be attributed to the
ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly, it can give warning of
trouble on a high mileage engine before any
other symptoms become apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
3Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the coil LT (“+15”) wire. Fit the
compression tester to No 1 cylinder spark
plug hole.4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6The difference in pressure between any two
cylinders should be no more than 1.0 bar
(14.5 lbf/in2). If the pressure in any cylinder is
low, pour a teaspoonful of clean engine oil
into the spark plug hole, and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
cylinder bore or piston ring wear was
responsible for the pressure loss. No
improvement suggests that leaking or burnt
valves, or a blown head gasket may be to
blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
leaking between them.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT wire.
4Major operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
1The following operations may be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal and refitting of oil pressure relief
valve (see Section 30)
b)Removal and refitting of timing belt and
sprockets
c)Removal and refitting of camshaft housing
(SOHC engines)
d)Removal and refitting of camshaft(s)
e)Removal and refitting of cylinder head
f)Removal and refitting of sump
g)Removal and refitting of oil pump
h)Removal and refitting of
piston/connecting rod assemblies
i)Removal and refitting of flywheel
j)Renewal of crankshaft front oil seal
k)Removal and refitting of
engine/transmission mountings
Note: It is possible to renew the crankshaft
rear oil seal with the engine in the vehicle, but
this requires the use of special tools, and is a
difficult operation, due to the lack of working
space. For this reason, this operation is
described with the engine removed from the
vehicle.
5Major operations requiring
engine removal
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle to carry out the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
c)Renewal of crankshaft rear oil seal
6Method of engine removal
The engine may be removed either on its
own, or together with the transmission. Unless
work is also necessary on the transmission, it
is recommended that the engine is removed
on its own. In either case, the engine or
engine/transmission assembly must be lifted
out through the top of the engine
compartment, using a hoist and lifting tackle.
7Engine - removal and refitting,
(leaving transmission in car)
4
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation.If the torque converter is
removed (even partially) from the transmission,
a considerable amount of the fluid inside it will
leak out. To prevent this, when prising the
engine from the transmission and removing it,
be careful to keep the torque converter
pressed firmly into the transmission. If the
transmission is to be removed for some time,
retain the torque converter by bolting a strip of
metal across the bellhousing mating surface.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Drain the cooling system, remove the
radiator and transmission fluid cooler hoses
(automatic models), as described in Chapter 3.
5Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1,
remove the oil filter and discard, safely.
6Remove the air cleaner (or air cleaner
cover), the air cleaner trunking, and the air
box from the carburettor or throttle body (as
applicable), referring to Chapter 4A or 4B, if
necessary. On carburettor models,
disconnect the hot air hose from the exhaust
manifold hot air shroud and the air cleaner,
and remove the hose. On automatic models,
disconnect additional wiring, hoses, etc., from
the carburettor, as described in Chapter 4A.
7Remove the alternator, as described in
Chapter 5.
8On models with power steering, remove the
hydraulic pump, as described in Chapter 10.
9Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
10Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle lever and the bracket on the
carburettor or inlet manifold, as applicable.
11On carburettor models, disconnect the
coolant hoses from the automatic choke
housing, and disconnect the wiring from the
automatic choke heater and the choke
pull-down solenoid (see illustrations). Also
disconnect the air box vacuum pipe from the
carburettor.
2A•8SOHC engine procedures
2.3 Crankcase ventilation filter removed
from camshaft cover -
1.6 litre engine

9Engine and transmission
mountings - renewal
3
Note: New left and right-hand
engine/transmission mounting-to-body bolts
must be used on refitting
1The engine/transmission assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the transmission, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
2If not already done, apply the handbrake,
then raise the front of the vehicle, and support
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”)..
3Attach lifting tackle and a hoist to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
4Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting block from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly (see illustration).
5Unbolt the mounting block from the
bracket.
6Fit the new mounting block to the bracket,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
8Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Disconnect the lifting tackle and hoist from
the engine.
10Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mounting
11Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3.
12Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting block from the mounting bracket
and the body (see illustration).13Before fitting the new mounting block,
check that the original engine bolts which
secured the mounting block to the body
rotate freely in their threaded bores in the
body. If necessary, re-cut the threaded bores
using an M10 x 1.25 mm tap.
14Fit the new mounting block to the bracket,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
15Fit new mounting block-to-body bolts,
and tighten them to the specified torque.
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 9
and 10.
Rear mounting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 2
and 3.
18Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting block from the front subframe and
the mounting bracket.
19Fit the new mounting block to the
subframe and mounting bracket, and tighten
the securing bolts to the specified torque.
20Proceed as described in paragraphs 9
and 10.
10Engine dismantling and
reassembly - general
4
General
1Ideally, the engine should be mounted on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench, at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, the
engine will have to be stripped down on the
floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if theengine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4If the engine oil appears extremely dirty or
contaminated, avoid inverting the engine until
the sump has been removed. This will prevent
any contaminated “sludge” from entering the
oilways.
5As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. Do not immerse parts with
internal oilways in paraffin, as it is difficult to
remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
6It is advisable to have containers available
to hold small items, to prevent loss and
confusion when refitting.
7Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled. Keep
the old gaskets as they can be used as
patterns to make replacements should new
gaskets not be available.
8Where possible, refit nuts, bolts and
washers to their locations after removal of the
relevant components, as this helps protect
the threads, and will also prove helpful during
reassembly.
9Retain unserviceable components, to
compare them with the new components
supplied.
10Many of the engine components are
secured using socket-headed “Torx” or
“Allen” bolts, and tools will be required to
remove and refit such bolts.
11Read through each relevant Section of
this Chapter carefullybeforebeginning work,
to ensure that any special tools that may be
required are available. Many components
(gaskets, oil seals, and certain bolts) must be
renewed on reassembly; where applicable,
obtain the required new components before
starting work.
12Before beginning a complete strip of the
engine, the following ancillary components
can be removed once the engine has been
removed from the vehicle:
2A•12SOHC engine procedures
9.4 Right-hand engine mounting
1 Mounting block-to-body bolts
2 Mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts9.12 Left-hand engine/transmission mounting
1 Mounting block-to-body bolts
2 Mounting block-to-mounting bracket bolts
If a tap is not available, cut
two slots into the threads of
one of the old flywheel bolts
and use the bolt to remove
the locking compound from the threads.

28Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
4
Renewal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the flywheel, or flexplate (as
applicable) as described in Sections 25 and
26.
2Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts
may be necessary. Be careful not to damage
the sealing face of the crankshaft.
3Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.4Grease the lips of the new seal, then tap the
seal into position using a tube, until flush with
the outer faces of the cylinder block and rear
main bearing cap (see illustration).
5Refit the flywheel or flexplate (if applicable),
as described in Sections 25 or 26.
29Sump - removal and refitting
4
Note: The sump gasket(s) must be renewed
on refitting and sealer will be required for use
on the oil pump and rear main bearing
cap-to-cylinder block joints
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, continue as
follows, otherwise go on to paragraph 9.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Drain the engine oil, referring to Chapter 1 if
necessary, then refit and tighten the drain
plug.
4Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
6Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the oil level sensor.
7Unscrew the securing bolts and remove the
engine-to-transmission blanking plate from
the bellhousing.8Remove the securing bolts, and withdraw
the sump. Note that on most models, the
sump baffle will probably be pulled away from
the cylinder block with the sump, but cannot
be removed until the oil pick-up pipe has been
removed.
9On 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, to remove
the sump baffle, it is necessary to unbolt the
bracket securing the oil pick-up pipe to the
cylinder block. The baffle can then be
manipulated over the oil pick-up pipe. On C
16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, prise the
rubber gasket from the sump baffle.
10If need be, the oil pick-up pipe can be
removed by unscrewing the single bolt
securing the support bracket to the cylinder
block (if not already done). Then remove the
two bolts securing the end of the pipe to the
oil pump. Recover the O-ring.
11Clean all traces of old gasket and sealing
compound from the mating faces of the
cylinder block, sump baffle (where
applicable), and sump.
Refitting
12Begin refitting by applying sealing
compound (Vauxhall part No 90485251 or
equivalent) to the joints between the oil pump
and cylinder block, and the rear main bearing
cap and cylinder block (see illustrations).
13On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre locate a
new rubber gasket over the sump baffle
flange, ensuring that it is seated correctly (see
illustration).
14On 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, offer the
sump baffle up to the cylinder block,
manipulating it over the oil pick-up pipe where
applicable.
15If the oil pick-up pipe has been removed,
refit it to the oil pump using a new O-ring and
tighten bolts to the specified torque (see
illustrations).
16Where applicable, refit the bracket
securing the oil pick-up pipe to the cylinder
block, ensuring that it passes through the
relevant hole in the sump baffle, if applicable
(see illustration).
17Coat the sump securing bolts with
thread-locking compound (i.e. Vauxhall part
No. 90167347), then refit the sump, and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see
illustrations).
SOHC engine procedures 2A•27
29.12B Applying sealing compound to the
joint between the oil pump and cylinder
block - 2.0 litre engine
29.15B . . .and tighten the securing bolts
to the specified torque - 2.0 litre engine29.15A Fit a new O-ring to the oil pick-up
pipe . . .29.13 Locate a new rubber gasket over
the sump baffle flange - 2.0 litre engine
29.12A Apply sealing compound (arrowed)
to oil pump and rear main bearing cap
joints before refitting sump
28.4 Fitting a new crankshaft rear oil seal -
2.0 litre engine
2A

REF
Overall length: *
Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4432 mm
Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4352 mm
Overall width: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1876 mm
Overall height (unladen): *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1400 mm
Wheelbase: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2600 mm
Track:
Front: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1426 mm
Rear: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1423 mm
Ground clearance (minimum): *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 mm
Weights
Kerb weight: *
Dependent on model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1098 ± 101 kg
Maximum gross vehicle weight: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Refer to VIN plate
Maximum roof rack load: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 kg
Maximum towing hitch downward load: *
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 kg
Maximum towing weight: *
Trailer with brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1175 ± 175 kg
Trailer without brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550 ± 50 kg
* Exact details depend upon model and specification.
Refer to owners handbook.
Dimensions and Weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Conversion Factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•2
Buying Spare Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
Vehicle Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
General Repair Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4
Jacking and Vehicle Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5Radio/cassette unit Anti-theft System . . . . . . . .REF•5
Tools and Working Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•6
MOT Test Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•8
Fault Finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•12
Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•20
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•25
Reference REF•1
Dimensions and Weights

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing roadwheels.
When carrying out any other kind of work,
raise the vehicle using a hydraulic jack, and
always supplement the jack with axle stands
positioned under the vehicle jacking points.
When jacking up the vehicle with a trolleyjack, position the jack head under one of the
relevant jacking points (note that the jacking
points for use with a hydraulic jack are
different to those for use with the vehicle
jack). Do not jack the vehicle under the sump
or any of the steering or suspension
components. Supplement the jack using axlestands. The jacking points and axle stand
positions are shown in the accompanying
illustrations. Never work under, around, or
near a raised vehicle, unless it is adequately
supported in at least two places.
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard
equipment by Vauxhall is equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the
radio/cassette unit will not function until the
correct security code has been entered.Therefore, if you do not know the correct
security code for the radio/cassette unit, do
not disconnect the battery negative terminal
of the battery, or remove the radio/cassette
unit from the vehicle.
Refer to the Audio handbook supplied in
the owners handbook pack, for further details
of how to use the code.If you should loose or forget the code, seek
the advice of your Vauxhall dealer. On
presentation of proof of ownership, a Vauxhall
dealer will be able to unlock the unit and
provide you with a new security code.
Jacking and Vehicle Support REF•5
Rear jacking point for hydraulic jack or
axle standsWhen raising the front of the vehicle,
locate the jack underneath the centre of
the subframe. Note the use of the block of
wood placed on the jack headFront jacking point for hydraulic jack or
axle stands
Location of jacking points
1 Jacking points for use with vehicle jack 2 Jacking points for use with hydraulic jack or axle stands
REF
Radio/cassette unit Anti-theft System

oil and filter renewal - 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
oil cooler - 2B•10
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•28, 2B•9
piston rings - 2A•30
piston/connecting rod - 2A•29
removal - 2A•8, 2B•3
SOHC - 2A•1 et seq
sump - 2A•27, 2B•9
timing belt - 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
undershield - 11•13
valve lifters - 2A•24, 2B•9
valves - 2A•5, 2B•2
Environmental considerations- REF•4
Exhaust manifold- 4C•5
Exhaust system check- 1•11, 4C•5
Expansion tank- 3•5
FFan (radiator)- 3•5
Fault diagnosis- REF•12 et seq
automatic transmission - REF•12, REF•16
braking system - REF•12, REF•17
clutch - REF•12, REF•15
cooling system - REF•12, REF•15
driveshafts - REF•12, REF•16
electrical system - REF•12, REF•18
engine - REF•12, REF•13
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•15
manual transmission - REF•12, REF•16
steering - REF•12, REF•17
suspension - REF•12, REF•17
Flexplate (automatic transmission)- 2A•26
Flushing (cooling system)- 3•2
Flywheel- 2A•26
Foglamp- 12•11
Fuel and exhaust (carburettor) systems-
4A•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust (fuel injection) systems-
4B•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - emissions-
4C•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems:
accelerator cable - 4A•5
accelerator pedal - 4A•5
air box - 4B•5
air cleaner - 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
air pump/cut off valve - 4C•2
air temperature control - 4B•5
airflow meters - 4B•12
automatic choke - 4A•9
carbon canister - 4C•4
carburettor - 4A•5, 4A•11
catalytic converter - 4C•3
control unit - 4B•16
depressurising fuel system - 4B•5
EGR components - 4C•2
exhaust manifold - 4C•5
exhaust system check - 1•11, 4C•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filler cap - 11•13
fuel filters - 1•3, 1•14, 4B•6
fuel flow damper - 4B•8
fuel injector(s) - 4B•13
fuel level sender unit - 4A•4, 4B•8
fuel pressure regulator - 4B•10
fuel pump - 4A•3, 4B•6fuel tank - 4A•4, 4B•7
fuel vapour separator - 4A•4
idle speed/mixture adjustment - 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
inlet manifold - 4A•12, 4B•17
knock sensor - 4B•17
lambda sensor - 4C•4
manifolds - 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
mixture (CO) - 4A•7, 4A•12, 4B•9
oxygen sensor - 4C•4
Pierburg 2E3 - 4A•5
potentiometer - 4B•12, 4B•16
throttle cable - 4A•5
throttle pedal - 4A•5
Fuses- 12•1, 12•3
GGear selector linkage- 7A•2
Gearbox - see Manual or Automatic
transmission
Gearbox oil- 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
Gearchange lever- 7A•3
Glass- 11•9
Glossary of technical terms- REF•20
Glove compartment- 11•18
HHandbrake adjustment- 9•18
Handbrake cables- 9•19
Handbrake lever- 9•20
Handles (door)- 11•7
Hazard warning switch- 12•4
Headlamp alignment- 12•10
Headlamp unit- 12•9
Headlining- 11•19
Heater blower motor switch- 12•4
Heater control panel- 3•6
Heater matrix- 3•7
Heating systems- 3•1 et seq
Horn- 12•8
Hose and fluid leak check- 0•9, 1•9
Hoses brake- 9•18
IIdle speed/mixture/adjustment- 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
Ignition coil- 5•9
Ignition switch- 12•3
Ignition system- 5•2
Igniton timing- 5•2, 5•13
Indicator lamps- 12•11
Indicator switch- 12•4
Injector(s)- 4B•13
Inlet manifold- 4A•12, 4B•17
Input shaft (clutch) oil seal- 7A•4
Instrument panel- 12•6
Interior lamps- 12•8
Interior trim panels- 11•14
Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier- 0•4
JJacking and vehicle support- REF•5
Jump starting- 0•7
KKickdown switch - 7B•3
Knock sensor- 4B•17
LLambda sensor- 4C•4
Lamps- 12•8, 12•9
Leaks- 0•9, 1•9
Light switch- 12•4
Locks bonnet- 11•4
Locks door- 11•8
Locks tailgate- 11•6
Lubricants and fluids- 0•17
MMain and big-end bearings- 2A•31
Maintenance - see Routine maintenance
Maintenance schedule- 1•4
Manifolds- 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
Manual transmission- 7A•1 et seq
differential bearing oil seals - 7A•3
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gear selector linkage - 7A•2
gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
gearchange lever - 7A•3
input shaft (clutch) oil seal - 7A•4
overhaul -7A•5
removal and refitting - 7A•4
reversing lamp switch - 7A•6
speedometer drive - 7A•6
Master cylinder (brake)- 9•13
Mirrors- 11•11
Mixture (CO)- 4A•7, 4B•9
MOT test checks- REF•8
Mountings (engine/transmission)- 2A•12,
2B•3
NNumber plate lamp- 12•11
OOil change- 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
Oil cooler- 2B•10
Oil filter- 1•2, 1•9
Oil pressure warning lamp switch- 12•5
Oil pump- 2A•28, 2B•9
Oil seals:
differential bearing - 7A•3
general - REF •4
camshaft - 2A•18, 2B•6
crankshaft - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Oils- 0•17, 1•2
Open-circuit, finding - 12•2
Oxygen sensor- 4C•4
PPads (brake)- 9•4
Paintwork damage- 11•2
Parts- REF•3
Pedals
brake - 9•21
clutch - 6•3
throttle - 4A•5
REF•26Index