check engine OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Workshop Manual

1. Perform oil return operation.
2. Discharge and recover the refrigerant and remove
the compressor.
3. Drain the compressor oil and measure the extracted
oil.
4. Check the compressor oil for contamination.
5. Adjust the oil level as required.
6. Evacuate, charge and perform the oil return
operation.
7. Check the system operation.
Contamination of Compressor Oil
Unlike engine oil, no cleaning agent is added to the
compressor oil. Even if the compressor runs for a long
period of time (approximately one season), the oil never
becomes contaminated as long as there is nothing
wrong with the compressor or its method of use.
Inspect the extracted oil for any of the following
conditions:
The capacity of the oil has increased.
The oil has changed to red.
Foreign substances, metal powder, etc., are present
in the oil.
If any of these conditions exists, the compressor
oil is contaminated. Whenever contaminated
compressor oil is discovered, the receiver/drier
must be replaced.
Oil Return Operation
There is close affinity between the oil and the
refrigerant. During normal operation, part of the oil
recirculates with the refrigerant in the system. When
checking the amount of oil in the system, or replacing
any component of the system, the compressor must be
run in advance for oil return operation. The procedure
is as follows:
1. Open all the doors and the engine hood.
2. Start the engine and air conditioning switch to "ON"
and set the fan control knob at its highest position.
3. Run the compressor for more than 20 minutes
between 800 and 1,000 rpm in order to operate the
system.
4. Stop the engine.
Replacement of Component Parts
When replacing the system component parts, supply
the following amount of oil to the component parts to be
installed.
Compressor Leak Testing (External and
Internal)
Bench-Check Procedure
1. Install test plate J-39893 on rear head of compressor.
2. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, attach center
hose of manifold gage set on charging station to a
refrigerant drum standing in an upright drum.
3. Connect charging station high and low pressure
lines to corresponding fittings on test plate J-39893.
Suction port (low-side) of compressor has large
internal opening. Discharge port (high-side) has
smaller internal opening into compressor and
deeper recess.
4. Open low pressure control, high pressure control
and refrigerant control on charging station to allow
refrigerant vapor to flow into compressor.
5. Using a leak detector, check for leaks at pressure
relief valve, rear head switch location, compressor
front and rear head seals, center cylinder seal,
through bolt head gaskets and compressor shaft
seal. After checking, shut off low pressure control
and high-pressure control on charging station.
6. If an external leak is present, perform the necessary
corrective measures and recheck for leaks to make
certain the leak has been connected.
7. Recover the refrigerant.
8. Disconnect both hoses from the test plate J-39893.
9. Add 90 ml (3 oz.) new PAG lubricant to the
compressor assembly. Rotate the complete
compressor assembly (not the crankshaft or drive
plate hub) slowly several turns to distribute oil to all
cylinder and piston areas.
10. Install a M9
1.25 threaded nut on the compressor
crankshaft if the drive plate and clutch assembly are
not installed.
11. Using a box-end wrench or socket and handle,
rotate the compressor crankshaft or clutch drive
plate on the crankshaft several turns to insure
piston assembly to cylinder wall lubrication.
12. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, connect the
charging station high-pressure line to the test plate
J-39893 high-side connector.
13. Using Refrigerant Recovery System, connect the
charging station low-pressure line to the low
pressure port of the test plate J-39893. Oil will drain
out of the compressor suction port if the compressor
is positioned with the suction port downward. (Component parts to be (Amount of Oil)
installed)
Evaporator 50 cc (1.7 fl. oz.)
Condenser 30 cc (1.0 fl. oz.)
Receiver/dryer 30 cc (1.0 fl. oz.)
Refrigerant line (one 10 cc (0.3 fl. oz.)
piece)
(Amount of oil drained (Charging amount of oil
from used compressor) to new compressor)
more than 90 cc same as drained amount
(3.0 fl.oz)
less than 90 cc (3.0 fl.oz) 90 cc (3.0 fl.oz)

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4B1–4
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Inspection and Repair
Va c u u m P i p i n g
C04RW016
1. Pull out the Hose A in figure and install a vacuum
gauge.
2. Plug up Hose B in figure to prevent the leak of
vacuum.
3. Start the engine and measure vacuum 2 or 3 minutes
afterward.
4. Repeat 1) and 2) but with Hose A plugged and Hose B
pulled out.
5. If vacuum measures –400mmHg, or if it shows a
sudden drop immediately after engine stop, inspect
the hose, tank, and pipe for damage.
NOTE: Be careful not to permit the entry of dust and
water during inspection.
6. Pull out Hose D in above illustration.
7. Plug Hose E in above illustration.
8. Make sure that Hose D in above illustration is under
atmospheric pressure.
9. Pull out Hose E and plug Hose D, and make sure that
Hose E is under atmospheric pressure.
10. If Check 8) or 9) has revealed stoppage, check and
see that there is no bend, foreign matter in the hose or
in the filter. If there is trouble, repair or replace.Check Valve
C04RS004
1. Apply vacuum from the orange colored side(1).
Vacuum:–400mmHg
2. Check leakage of vacuum.
3. Make sure that vacuum cannot be applied from the
black colored side(2).

4B1–5 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
4. If vacuum is not applicable as much as –400mmHg,
and if there is resistance on the intake side, replace
with a new check valve.
VSV Assembly
Inspect the vehicle side harness as follows:
412RS071
Legend
(1) Grey
(2) Blue
1. Remove connector.
2. Shift transfer lever to 2H and start the engine.
NOTE: Do not move the vehicle while inspection.
3. Make sure that there is continuity in the vehicle side of
harness. If there is no continuity, check transfer shift
switch and wiring.
Inspect both VSVs as follows:
F04RS004
1. With battery not connected (Usual).
A–C:There is continuity
B:Closed
2. With battery connected
A – B:There is continuity
C:Closed
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new VSV.
Axle Position Switch
412RS048
1. With ball (1) being free
A – B:There is continuity
2. With ball forced into the switch
A – B:No continuity
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new switch.

4B1–11 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Functions of Indicator Lamp
Indication of vehicle condition : Indicator lamp is
controlled by 4WD control unit and shows vehicle
conditions as below.
Indicator
Vehicle condition4WD switchTransfer position
switchFront axle switch
Off2WDOff (Close)2WD (Open)2WD (Open)
On4WDOn (Open)4WD (Close)4WD (Close)
Blink (2Hz)OperatingOn (Open)4WD (Close)2WD (Open)
Off (Close)2WD (Open)4WD (Close)
Blink (4Hz)Stop operatingOn (Open)2WD (Open)2WD (Open)
Off (Close)4WD (Close)4WD (Close)
Bulb check :To check the bulb of indicator lamp, the
indicator lamp comes on when ignition key is turned on,
and goes off when the engine is started.
Retrials from 2WD to 4WD :In cold weather or under
high speed condition, the gear shifting (engagement)sometimes does not complete by 3 trials. In such case,
the indicator lamp inform driver of this incident as
aforementioned chart (shown at Retrial in Outline of shift
on the fly system).
Diagnosis
Before Judging That Troubles Occur
(Unfaulty mode)
When Switching from 2WD to 4WD
1.In case that blinking frequency of the 4WD
indicator changes from 2Hz to 4Hz.
When heavy synchronization load is needed, the
motor actuator tries the shifting transfer gear three
times including the activation shifting. While the
motor actuator tries shifting, the indicator blinks by
2Hz. If the third shifting fails, the indicator’s blinking
changes from 2Hz to 4Hz at the same time that the
motor actuator shifted back to 2WD.
Heavy synchronization load occurs by:
extremely lower temperature.
higher speed, rotation difference of wheels during
cornering.
Solution 1: Operate again after stop the vehicle or
slow down.
2.In case that the 4WD indicator continues blinking
by 2Hz for more than 11.5 seconds.
When there is rotation difference of wheels or there
is phase difference between front wheels and axles,
it is difficult to connect front wheels to front axles. The
blinking by 2Hz shows that shifting the transfer gear
or connecting the front wheels is in the middle of
operating. In above case, the indicator’s blinking by
2Hz shows that connecting the front wheels is not
completed (because the indicator’s blinking changes
to 4Hz when the shifting transfer gear is impossible.).
And removal of rotation or phase difference make
connecting the front wheels possible.
Solution 2: When vehicle is running, drive
straight ahead while accelerating and
decelerating. When vehicle is at a stop, move the
vehicle forward and backward from 2 to 3 meters.When switching from 4WD to 2WD
1.In case that the 4WD indicator continues blinking
by 2Hz .
The 4WD indicator continues blinking by 2Hz until
both shifting the transfer gear and disconnecting the
front wheels are completed when switching 4WD to
2WD. When driveline is loaded with torsional torque,
the shifting transfer gear and disconnecting front
wheels are impossible. In this case, removal of
torsional torque on driveline make the shifting
transfer gear and disconnecting front wheels
possible.
Solution 3: When vehicle is running, drive
straight ahead while accelerating and
decelerating. When vehicle is at a stop, move the
vehicle forward and backward from 2 to 3 meters.
2.In case that the 4WD indicator’s blinking changes
from 2Hz to 4Hz.
Check the position of transfer lever. Is it at “4L”
position? In view of the shifting mechanism of
transfer, the gear shifting from 4WD to 2WD at “4L”
condition is impossible.
Solution 4: Push the 4WD switch to 4WD, shift the
transfer lever to “High” position and re–operate
the 4WD switch to 2WD.

4B1–25 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Diagnosis of the Faults Based on the
Status of 4WD Indicator Lamp, 4WD
Switch and T/F Change Lever
Diagnosis charts are shown on below. If troubles can not
be solved after every chart was traced, troubles may
occur in the 4WD control unit. In this case, replace the
4WD control unit and trace every chart again.
Fault on switching from 2WD to 4WD
1.In case that 4WD indicator’s blinking changes
from 2Hz to 4Hz after Solution 1 is carried out.
Faults occur in the motor actuator or the transfer case
assembly. Remove the motor actuator and check
function. If problem was found and it was repaired, try
Solution 1 again. After that, disassemble the
transfer case assembly for check and repair or
replace. If incident is not improved after above
mentioned actions were taken, replace the 4WD
control unit.
2.In case that 4WD indicator does not blink nor
light, when switching from 2WD to 4WD.
Step
ActionYe sNo
1Is ignition turned on?
Go to Step 2
Turn on the
ignition and trace
this chart from
start.
2
Does the indicator light comes on when the engine is not started?
Go to Step 3
Burning out of
indicator lamp or
disconnection of
harness wire.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
3Start the engine.
Is the 4WD switch turned from 2WD to 4WD?Short-circuit
(body short) on
harness of the
4WD switch.
Fault of the 4WD
switch (holding
the closed
condition).
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Push the 4WD
switch to 4WD.

4B1–33 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Inspection and Repair
Va c u u m P i p i n g
C04RW014
1. Pull out the Hose A in figure and install a vacuum
gauge.
2. Plug up Hose B in figure to prevent the leak of
vacuum.
3. Start the engine and measure vacuum 2 or 3 minutes
afterward.
4. Repeat 1) and 2) but with Hose A plugged and Hose B
pulled out.
5. If vacuum measures –400mmHg, or if it shows a
sudden drop immediately after engine stop, inspect
the hose, tank, and pipe for damage.
NOTE: Be careful not to permit the entry of dust and
water during inspection.
6. Pull out Hose D in above illustration.
7. Plug Hose E in above illustration.
8. Make sure that Hose D in above illustration is under
atmospheric pressure.
9. Pull out Hose E and plug Hose D, and make sure that
Hose E is under atmospheric pressure.
10. If Check 8) or 9) has revealed stoppage, check and
see that there is no bend, foreign matter in the hose or
in the filter. If there is trouble, repair or replace.Check Valve
C04RS004
1. Apply vacuum from the orange colored side(1).
Vacuum:–400mmHg
2. Check leakage of vacuum.
3. Make sure that vacuum cannot be applied from the
black colored side(2).

4B1–34
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
4. If vacuum is not applicable as much as –400mmHg,
and if there is resistance on the intake side, replace
with a new check valve.
VSV Assembly
Inspect the vehicle side harness as follows:
412RS071
Legend
(1) Grey
(2) Blue
1. Remove connector.
2. Shift transfer lever to 2H and start the engine.
NOTE: Do not move the vehicle while inspection.
3. Make sure that there is continuity in the vehicle side of
harness. If there is no continuity, check transfer shift
switch and wiring.
Inspect both VSVs as follows:
F04RS004
1. With battery not connected (Usual).
A–C:There is continuity
B:Closed
2. With battery connected
A – B:There is continuity
C:Closed
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new VSV.
Axle Position Switch
412RS048
1. With ball (1) being free
A – B:There is continuity
2. With ball forced into the switch
A – B:No continuity
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new switch.
Motor Actuator Assembly
Inspect the function of the motor actuator assembly as
follows:

4B2–11 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD)
The CHECK lamp also has the following functions.
D-G MAP recognition and display (The control unit
displays what type of vehicle, diesel or gasoline
vehicle, it recognizes.)
1. Short-circuit the self-diagnostic connector.
2. Turn on the starter switch. (Displays with respect to
the self-diagnosis begin to appear.)
NOTE: Do not start the engine.
3. Shift the transfer lever to the neutral position between
HIGH and 4L.
4. After all the conditions in 1 through 3 above are met,
set the throttle to the WOT (wide open throttle)
position (i.e., full open position). The display of the
self-diagnosis is temporarily suspended, and the
CHECK lamp begins to display that MAP is
recognized by the TPS (throttle position sensor)
according to the current conditions.NOTE: If the TPS has failed, this function might not work.
1. When the control unit recognizes the vehicle as
gasoline type, the CHECK lamp is turned on for five
seconds and this mode is repeated at an interval of
0.3 second.
2. When the control unit recognizes the vehicle as
diesel type, the CHECK lamp is turned off for five
seconds and this mode is repeated at an interval of
0.3 seconds.
3. Upon completion of step 4, the system resumes the
self-diagnosis. (The self-diagnosis is executed
from the beginning.)
5. Turn off the starter switch once. When above
conditions are met again in the future, the TPS MAP
control can be started.
C04RW010