tire size OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Workshop Manual

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–88
StepActionYe sNo
1Are the front and rear tires in specified size?
Go to Step 2
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
2Is the tire pressure correct?
Go to Step 3
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
3Are the tires free from abnormal wear?
Go to Step 4
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
4Are different types of tires used?
Go to Step 5
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
51. Start the engine.
2. Shift the transfer lever to the high (TOD) position.
3. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 6 Go to Step 11
61. Shift the transfer lever to the 2H position.
2. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 7 Go to Step 14
7Is an LSD mounted to the rear differential? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
8Is the genuine LSD oil used in the rear differential?
Go to Step 9
Replace the
differential oil.
Go to Step 16
9Does the engine output the power correctly?
Go to Step 10
Check the
engine.
Go to Step 16
10Do the speed sensors work correctly? (Check trouble codes.)The ECU has
failed. Replace
the ECU.
Go to Step 16
Replace the
speed sensors.
Go to Step 16
11Is the tight corner braking observed only when the brake is
applied?
Go to Step 12
Conduct full
steering under
WOT.
Go to Step 5
121. Turn off the starter switch.
2. Disconnect the ECU connector.
Is the battery voltage observed between terminals (B–68)6 and
(B–67)11?
Go to Step 13
Repair the circuit
of terminal 6
(ABS IN).
Go to Step 16

6A–11
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
Engine overheatingLevel of Engine Coolant too lowReplenish
Fan clutch defectiveReplace
Incorrect fan installedReplace
Thermostat defectiveReplace
Engine Coolant pump defectiveCorrect or replace
Radiator cloggedClean or replace
Radiator filler cap defectiveReplace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
low or wrong engine oilChange or replenish
Resistance in exhaust system
increasedClean exhaust system or replace
defective parts
Throttle Position Sensor adjustment
incorrectReplace with Throttle Valve ASM
Throttle Position Sensor circuit open
or shortedCorrect or replace
Cylinder head gasket damagedReplace
Engine overcoolingThermostat defectiveReplace (Use a thermostat set to
open at 82
C (180F))
Engine lacks compression————Refer to Hard Start
OthersTire inflation pressure abnormalAdjust to recommended pressures
Brake dragAdjust
Clutch slippingAdjust or replace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
highCorrect level of engine oil
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
defectiveReplace
Engine Noisy
Abnormal engine noise often consists of various noises
originating in rotating parts, sliding parts and othermoving parts of the engine. It is, therefore, advisable to
locate the source of noise systematically.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Noise from crank journals or from
crank bearings
(Faulty crank journals and crankOil clearance increased due to worn
crank journals or crank bearingsReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
yj
bearings usually make dull noise that
becomes more evident when
accelerating)Crankshaft out of roundReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
Crank bearing seizedCrank bearing seized. Replace crank
bearings and crankshaft or regrind
crankshaft and install the undersize
bearing
Troubleshooting Procedure
Short out each spark plug in sequence using insulated
spark plug wire removers. Locate cylinder with defectivebearing by listening for abnormal noise that stops when
spark plug is shorted out.

6E–337 ENGINE DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
0018
Knock Sensor
Insufficient gasoline octane levels may cause detonation
in some engines. Detonation is an uncontrolled explosion
(burn) in the combustion chamber. This uncontrolled
explosion results from a flame front opposite that of the
normal flame front produced by the spark plug. The
rattling sound normally associated with detonation is the
result of two or more opposing pressures (flame fronts)
colliding within the combustion chamber. Light
detonation is sometimes considered normal, but heavy
detonation could result in engine damage.
A knock sensor system is used to control detonation. This
system is designed to retard spark timing up to 20
degrees to reduce detonation in the engine. This allows
the engine to use maximum spark advance to improve
driveability and fuel economy.
The knock sensor system has two major components:
The knock sensor (KS) module.
The knock sensor.
The knock sensor, mounted in the engine block near the
cylinders, detects abnormal vibration in the engine. The
sensor produces an AC output signal of about 10
millivolts. The signal amplitude and frequency are
dependent on the amount of knock being experienced.
The signal voltage increases with the severity of the
knock. This signal voltage is input to the PCM. The PCM
then retards the ignition control (IC) spark timing based
on the KS signal being received.
The PCM determines whether knock is occurring by
comparing the signal level on the KS circuit with the
voltage level on the noise channel. The noise channel
allows the PCM to reject any false knock signal by
indicating the amount of normal engine mechanical noise
present. Normal engine noise varies depending on the
engine speed and load. If the voltage level on the KS
noise channel circuit is below the range considered
normal, DTC P0327 will set, indicating a fault in the KScircuit or the knock sensor. If the PCM determines that an
abnormal minimum or maximum noise level is being
experienced, DTC P0325 will set.
The PCM contains a knock sensor (KS) module. The KS
module contains the circuitry which allows the PCM to
utilize the KS signal and diagnose the KS sensor and the
KS circuitry. If the KS module is missing or faulty, a
continuous knock condition will be indicated, and the
PCM will set DTC P0325.
Although it is a plug-in device, the KS module is not
replaceable. If the KS module is faulty, the entire PCM
must be replaced.
0009
Linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
Control
The PCM monitors the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)
actual position and adjusts the pintle position accordingly.
The PCM uses information from the following sensors to
control the pintle position:
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
Throttle position (TP) sensor.
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor measures the difference
between the volume and the quantity of air that enters the
engine. “Volume” means the size of the space to be filled.
“Quantity” means the number of air molecules that will fit
into the space. This information is important to the PCM
because heavier, denser air will hold more fuel than
lighter, thinner air. The PCM adjusts the air/fuel ratio as
needed depending on the MAF value. Tech 2 reads the
MAF value and displays it in terms of grams per second
(gm/s). At idle, Tech 2 should read between 4-7 gm/s on a
fully warmed up engine. Values should change quickly on
acceleration. Values should remain stable at any given

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM 9J–18
6. Prepare four 15 inch or larger tires without wheel and
two same size tires with wheels.
827RW056
7. How to fix Driver air bag.
1. Fix the air bag with its trim cover up on a tire with a
wheel using an automobile use wire harness,
(core size: 0.05 inch) or a wire trebly at two or
more points.
2. Connect SRS air bag assembly to the double pole
extension cord of the air bag deployment
harness.
Do not connect the deployment harness to a pow-
er source until air bag deployment.
(If connected the SRS air bag assembly deploys
immediately)
NOTE: Ensure that the pigtail adapter is firmly seated into
the air bag assembly connector. Failure to fully seat the
connectors may leave the shorting bar located in the air
bag assembly connector functioning (shorting the
deployment circuit) and may result in non deployment of
the air bag assembly.
827RW054
3. Place three tires without wheel on the tire on
which air bag is fixed and a tire with a wheel on
top.
Bind the five tires with a rope so that the tires may
not collapse.
827RW053
Legend
(A) 10 m (33 feet) or more
8. How to fix Passenger air bag.
1. Fix the air bag with its trim cover side fixing the
center of a tire without a wheel using an
automobile use wire harness, (core size: 0.05
inch) or a wire trebly at two or more points.
901RX045
2. Connect Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
air bag assembly to the deployment harness
double pole extension cord end. Be sure not to
connect the deployment harness to a power
source. (If connected the SRS air bag assembly
deploys immediately).

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2B–4DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–116
StepActionYe sNo
1Are the front and rear tires in specified size?
Go to Step 2
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
2Is the tire pressure correct?
Go to Step 3
In flate tries to
recommended
pressure.
Go to Step 16
3Are the tires free from abnormal wear?
Go to Step 4
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
4Are different types of tires used?
Go to Step 5
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
51. Start the engine.
2. Shift the transfer lever to the high position and switch the 4WD
AUTO SW to 4WD position.
3. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 6 Go to Step 11
61. Shift the transfer lever to the high position and switch the 4WD
AUTO SW to the 2H position.
2. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 7 Go to Step 14
7Is an LSD mounted to the rear differential? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
8Is the genuine LSD oil used in the rear differential?
Go to Step 9
Replace the
differential oil.
Go to Step 16
9Does the engine output the power correctly?
Go to Step 10
Check the
engine.
Go to Step 16
10Do the speed sensors work correctly? (Check trouble codes.)The ECU has
failed. Replace
the ECU.
Go to Step 16
Replace the
speed sensors.
Go to Step 16
11Is the tight corner braking observed only when the brake is
applied?
Go to Step 12
Conduct full
steering under
WOT.
Go to Step 5
121. Turn on the starter switch.
Is the battery voltage observed between terminals 11 and 19?
Go to Step 13
Repair the circuit
of terminal 11
(ABS IN).
Go to Step 16

6A–11
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
Engine overheatingLevel of Engine Coolant too lowReplenish
Fan clutch defectiveReplace
Incorrect fan installedReplace
Thermostat defectiveReplace
Engine Coolant pump defectiveCorrect or replace
Radiator cloggedClean or replace
Radiator filler cap defectiveReplace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
low or wrong engine oilChange or replenish
Resistance in exhaust system
increasedClean exhaust system or replace
defective parts
Throttle Position Sensor adjustment
incorrectReplace with Throttle Valve ASM
Throttle Position Sensor circuit open
or shortedCorrect or replace
Cylinder head gasket damagedReplace
Engine overcoolingThermostat defectiveReplace (Use a thermostat set to
open at 82
C (180F))
Engine lacks compression————Refer to Hard Start
OthersTire inflation pressure abnormalAdjust to recommended pressures
Brake dragAdjust
Clutch slippingAdjust or replace
Level of oil in engine crankcase too
highCorrect level of engine oil
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
defectiveReplace
Engine Noisy
Abnormal engine noise often consists of various noises
originating in rotating parts, sliding parts and othermoving parts of the engine. It is, therefore, advisable to
locate the source of noise systematically.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Noise from crank journals or from
crank bearings
(Faulty crank journals and crankOil clearance increased due to worn
crank journals or crank bearingsReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
yj
bearings usually make dull noise that
becomes more evident when
accelerating)Crankshaft out of roundReplace crank bearings and
crankshaft or regrind crankshaft and
install the undersize bearing
Crank bearing seizedCrank bearing seized. Replace crank
bearings and crankshaft or regrind
crankshaft and install the undersize
bearing
Troubleshooting Procedure
Short out each spark plug in sequence using insulated
spark plug wire removers. Locate cylinder with defectivebearing by listening for abnormal noise that stops when
spark plug is shorted out.