weight OPEL GT-R 1973 User Guide

6A. 41973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
hand side above crankshaft sprocket, has a plunger
head with oil- proof and wear-resistant synthetic
rubber pad, which is pressed against chain by both
spring and oil pressure.
Figure 6A-2 Sectional View. Timing System
The top end of the short, light-weight hydrauricvalve
liffers is provided with a cup in which tits the
ball end of a stud engaged in an elongated hole in
rocker arm, thus maintaining transverse alignment
of the rocker arm.
The rocker
xrn is a steel stamping and pivots on
a ball secured by a self-locking nut on a stud screwed
into the cylinder head. This arrangement permits
easy valve clearance adjustment. All valves have oil
seals installed between valve spring and cap.
The
fuelpump is located at bottom left-hand side
of timing case and operated by, a cam integral with
distributor drive gear riveted
‘to distributor drive
shaft.
The aluminum alloy cast intake manifold with
smooth walls provide better charge of cylinders,
especially at high engine RPM. It is a four-port
manifold, i.e. there are separating walls between all
arms, one for each cylinder. An adapter for crank-
case ventilation hose leading to rocker arm cover is
arranged on front portion of intake manifold.Hot exhaust gases are used for heating a vaporization
plate located at bend of intake manifold below carbu-
retor and communicating with its tinned underside
with the interior of the exhaust manifold to ensure
that only vaporized fuel reaches the cylinders.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM AND OIL PUMPThe engine is lubricated by a forced feed system
Figure
6A-3 Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve
Figure 6A.4 Rear Cross Sectional View

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 11
a. Attach left chain to alternator support rear bolt.
b. Bolt right chain to existing threaded hole at lower
right front of engine.
2. Assemble loose ends of chain to support device J-bolts and adjust to remove engine weight from motor
mounts.
3. Remove the two motor mount bracket to motor
mount retaining nuts.
4. Remove the two front suspension to frame rail bolt
retaining nuts.
5. Remove nut and bolt at lower end of steering shaft
U-joint.
6. With a floor jack under the center of the front
suspension cross member, raise car high enough for
wheels and suspension assembly to be rolled from
under car.
7. Position jack stands under both front jack brackets
on underbody to support car in this position.
8. Remove both front cross member support to frame
attaching bolts.
9. Remove brake pipe to brake hose retaining clips
at frame rails and disconnect brake hose from brake
pipes. Use an absorbent material or suitable con-
tainer for the brake fluid that will drain out.
10. Lower the front suspension assembly and remove
from under car.
11. Drain engine oil and remove oil pan and gasket.
Installation (Opel 1900 and Manta)1. Apply a light bead of sealer to the clean sealing
surfaces of the oil pan and affix a new gasket.
2. Bolt oil pan and gasket assembly to engine block.
3. Roll front suspension and floor jack under car and
raise into position careful to pilot the cross member
to frame rail attaching bolts and steering shaft to
their respective locations.
4. Install cross member’support to frame attaching
bolts and torque to 22 lb.ft.
5. Connect brake hose to brake pipes and install
retaining clips.
6. Bleed front brake system. Maintain brake fluid1Wd.
7. Remove jack stands and lower car.8. Install suspension to frame rail bolt retaining nuts.
9. Release and remove engine supporting device.
10. Install motor mount bracket to motor mount
retaining nuts.
11. Install steering shaft U-joint lower bolt and nut.
12. Replace engine oil.
Removal (GT Series)1. Support engine in vehicle using Tool J-23375. See
Figure 6A- 15.
Figure 6A-15 Engine Holding Fixture
Install tool by removing upper engine mount nut and
installing fixture. Replace nut and tighten. The en-
gine will now be supported by the tool, between the
frame rails. The front suspension need not be
removed on GT Models.
2. Drain oil.
3. Remove oil pan bolts and remove oil.
Installation (GT Series)1. Replace oil pan and bolts.
2. Remove engine holding fixture and replace engine
mounts.
3. Replace engine oil.

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 17
seating and to prevent turning.The ends of she//s
must never be tiled flush with parting surface of
crankcase or bearing cap.Crankshaft bearings are the precision type which do
not require reaming to size. Shims are not provided
for adjustment since worn bearings are readily re-
placed with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for
service replacement are furnished in standard size
and undersizes. Under no circumstances should
crankshaft bearing caps be tiIed to adjust for wear in
old bearing.After removal of oil pan, pipe and screen assembly,
perform the following removal, inspection and in-
stallation operations on each crankshaft bearing in
turn so that the crankshaft will be well supported by
the other bearings.
If crankshaft has been removed to check straightness
the following procedure is suggested. Rest crank-
shaft on “V-blocks” at number one and number live
main bearing journals. Check indicator runout at
No. 3 main bearing journal. Total indicator reading
should not exceed
.C012”.1. Since any service condition which affects the
crankshaft bearings may also affect the connecting
rod bearings, it is advisable to inspect connecting rod
bearings
first. If crankpins are worn to the extent
that crankshaft should be replaced or reground, re-
placement of crankshaft bearings only will not be
satisfactory.
If replacement of cylinder block or crankshaft is re-
quired, always check main bearing clearance with
plastic-type gauge to obtain specified limits.
2. Remove one bearing cap, then clean and inspect
lower bearing shell and the crankshaft journal. If
journal surface is scored or ridged, the crankshaft
must be replaced or reground to insure satisfactory
operation with new bearings. Slight roughness may
be polished out with tine grit polishing cloth
thoroughly wetted with engine oil, and burrs may be
honed off with a tine stone.
3. If condition of lower bearing shell and crankshaft
journal is satisfactory, check the bearing clearance
with a plastic-type gauge.
4. When checking a crankshaft bearing with plastic-
type gauging material, turn crankshaft so that oil
hole is up to avoid dripping of oil on the gauge
material. Place paper shims in lower halves of adja-
cent bearings and tighten cap bolts to take the weight
of crankshaft
off the lower shell of beating being
checked.5. If bearing clearance exceeds
.C03”, it is advisable
to install a new bearing; however, if bearing is in
good condition and is not being checked because ofbearing noise, it is not necessary to replace the bear-
ing.6. Loosen all crankshaft bearing cap bolts
l/2 turn,
and remove cap of bearing to be replaced.
7. Remove upper bearing shell by inserting Bearing
Shell Remover and Installer J-8080 in oil hole in
crankshaft, then slowly turning crankshaft so that
the tool rotates the shell out of place by pushing
against the end without the tang. See Figure
6A-27.When turning crankshaft with rear bearing cap
removed hold oil seal to prevent it from rotating out
of position in crankcase.
8. The crankshaft journal cannot be measured with
an outside micrometer when shaft is in place; how-
ever, when upper bearing shell is removed the jour-
nal may be checked for out-of-round by using a
special crankshaft caliper and inside micrometer.
Figure 6A-27 Removing and Installing Crankshaft
Bearing Upper Shell
The caliper should not be applied to journal in line
with oil hole.
If crankshaft journal is more than
.M)12” out-of-
round, the crankshaft should be replaced since the
full mileage cannot be expected from bearings used
with an excessively out-of-round crankshaft.
9. Before installation of bearing shells make sure that
crankshaft journal and the bearing seats in crankcase
and cap are thoroughly cleaned.
10. Coat inside surface of upper bearing shell with
engine oil and place shell against crankshaft journal
so that tang on shell will engage notch in crankcase
when shell is rotated into place.
11. Rotate bearing shell into place as far as possible
by hand, then insert Installer J-8080 in crankshaft oil
hole and rotate crankshaft to push shell into place.
Bearing shell should move into place with very little

6A. 201973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
diameter at the right angle to the piston pin is greater
than the diameter parallel to the piston pin. When a
piston is checked for size, it must be measured with
micrometers applied to the skirt at ,points 90 degrees
to the piston pin. See Figure
6A-32. The piston
should be measured (for fitting p&poses) 2
l/2 in-
ches below the top of piston.
MEASURE AT
Figure 6A-32
Measuring,PistonInspect bearing surfaces of piston pins. Check for
wear by measuring worn and unworn surfaces with
micrometers. Rough or worn pins should be re-
placed. Check fit of piston pins in piston bosses.
Occasionally pins will be found tight due to gum or
varnish deposits. This may be corrected by removing
the deposit with a suitable solveni. If piston bosses
are worn out-of-round or oversize, the piston and pin
assembly must be replaced. Oversize pins are not
practical because the pin is a press fit in the connect-
ing rod. Piston pins must tit the piston with
0X4”to
.OCHl7” clearance.
Examine all piston rings for scores, chips or cracks.
Check compression rings for tension by comparing
with new rings. Check gap of compression rings by
placing rings in bore at bottom of ring travel. Meas-
ure gap with feeler gage. Gap should be between
,011” and .02.1”. If gaps are excessive (over .021”) it
indicates the rings have worn considerably and
should be replaced.
No attempt should be made to cut down oversize
pistons to fit cylinder bores. This practice
will de-
stroy the surface treatment and affect the weight.
The
sma/Jest possible oversize service pistons shouId
be used and the cylinder
bores should be honed to
size for proper clearance.1. Before installing piston, piston rings, or reboring
cylinders, observe the following:Cylinder bores may not be the same size. Standard
replacement piston sizes are in the midpoint of the
cylinder bore size range. Therefore, it may be neces-
sary to hone cylinders for correct piston tit. Out-of-
round on cylinder bore must not exceed
.ooO5”maximum with a taper of not over
.OilO5”.Before the honing or reboring operation is started,
measure all new pistons with micrometer contacting
at points exactly 90 degrees to piston pin (Figure6A-32) then select the smallest piston for the first
fitting. The slight variation usually found between
pistons in a set may provide for correction if the first
piston has excessive clearance.
If wear of cylinder does not exceed
.005” honing is
recommended for truing the bore. If wear or
out-of-round exceeds these limits, the bore should be trued
up with a fly cutter boring bar and then finish honed.
When reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps
must be in place and tightened to proper torque to
avoid distortion ofbores in final assembly. Always be
certain the crankshaft is out of the way of the boring
cutter when boring each cylinder. When making thefinal cut with boring bar, leave
,001 w on the diameter
for finish honing to give the required clearance speci-
fied.When honing cylinders, use clean sharp stones of
proper grade for the required amount of metal to be
removed, in accordance with instructions of the hone
manufacturer. Dull or dirty stones cut unevenly and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse or
medium grade stones use care to leave sufficient
metal so that all stone marks may be removed with
the fine stones used for finishing in order to maintain
proper clearance.
When finish honing, pass the hone through the entire
length of cylinder at the rate of approximately 60
cycles per minute. This should produce the desired
45 degree cross hatch pattern on cylinder walls
which will insure maximum ring life and minimum
oil consumption.
It is of the greatest importance that refinished cylin-
der bores have not over
.0005” out-of-round or ta-
pered. Each bore must be final honed to remove all
stone or cutter marks and provide a smooth surface.
During final honing, each piston must be fitted in-
dividually to the bore in which it will be installed and
should be marked to insure correct installation.
After final honing and before the piston is checked
for fit, each cylinder bore must be thoroughly
washed to remove all traces of abrasive and then
dried. The dry bore should then be brushed clean
with a power-driven iibre brush. If all traces of abra-
sive are not removed, rapid wear of new pistons and
rings will result. Fit new pistons in the following
manner:

78.221973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
3. Install new bellows. Adhere to distance A
- 8.07”.
See Figure 7B-I 1.
4. Heat up new gearshift lever knob in boiling water
to 176 degrees F. and push it onto gearshift lever
tube. Adhere to distance A .3”, see Figure
7B-15.The gearshift lever tube end is provided with trans-
verse grooves for which reason the old button cannot
be reused. Install gearshift lever.
REPLACING RUBBER DAMPENING PARTS IN
GEARSHIFT LEVER1. Remove gearshift lever.
2. Knock off gearshift lever button and loosen
threaded pin for Bowden control wire attachment.
3. Remove lower snap ring from gearshift lever tube
and pull tube off shift finger.
4. Take off and replace rubber dampening parts.
5. After installation of tube, tighten Bowden control
wire with threaded pin. Prior to tightening, pull ring
must rest on gearshift lever tube and clamping block
on pull ring. See Figure
7B-15.6. Heat up new gearshift lever knob in boiling water
to 176 degrees F. and push it onto gearshift lever
tube. Adhere to distance A
- .3”, see Figure 7B-15.The gearshift lever tube end is provided with trans-
verse grooves for which reason the old button cannot
be reused.
7. Install gearshift lever.
MAJOR REPAIR
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL1. Remove air cleaner. Remove throttle rod from
carburetor and rear support and disconnect battery.
2. Remove screws from fan shroud.
3. Remove gearshift lever (refer to paragraph on ser-
vicing gearshift lever).
4. Support car with frame or wheel stands in the
front or frame stands in the rear.
5. Loosen front exhaust pipe to manifold flange.
6. Remove clutch cable from fork by pushing fork to
disengage the clutch and unsnap cable from slot.
7. Disconnect both wires from backup lamp switch.8. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission
case extension housing.
9. Unhook parking brake cable return spring and
remove cable adjusting nut, equalizer, and spacer.
See Figure
7B-16.PARKING BRAKE CABLE
PARKING BRAKE
Figure 78-16 Parking Brake Equalizer and Return
Spring
9. Disconnect drive shaft at central joint and remove
as follows: See Figure
7B-16.a. Disconnect parking brake cable equalizer from
rod.b. Mark the mating parts of U-Joint and the drive
pinion extension shaft flange.
c. Loosen bolt locks and remove bolts or nuts.
d. Work propeller shaft slightly forward, lower rear
end of shaft and slide assembly rearward. Remove
thrust spring.
e. Install a plug in the rear of the transmission to
prevent loss of lubricant.
10. Remove rear engine mount bolts and lower trans-
mission as far as possible.
11. Remove transmission case to clutch housing at-
taching bolts and remove transmission.
INSTALLATION OF TRANSMISSION WITH
ENGINE IN CAR1. Make certain main drive gear splines are clean and
dry. Also, make certain the transmission is in Neu-
tral so that the main drive gear splines may be in-
dexed when making the installation.
2. Install transmission and support weight while in-
stalling transmission case to clutch housing bolts.
3. Install rear engine mount.
4. Install propeller shaft, align, and tighten U-Joint
to pinion flange U-Bolt nuts and torque to 11 lb. ft.

7C- 521973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
CCUMULATOR
DRIVE:--7633
Figure 7C-33 1
- 2 Accumulator Valve
The ports and spools operate as previously described.
However, for increased engine torque, it is necessary
to increase the accumulator pressure. This is accom-
plished by introducing modulator pressure to the
small end of the 1-2 accumulator valve. As the
modulator pressure increases, it adds to the spring
force and increases the l-2 accumulator pressure.
The 1-2 accumulator pressure is fed to the bottom
(spring loaded side) of the 1-2 accumulator piston.
The Governor is mounted on the output shaft and
contains two interconnected regulating valves See
Figure
7C-34. Its purpose is to supply an oil pressure
5 8I. GOVERNOR SECONDARY VALVE6
SPRING RETAINER
2. GOVERNOR SECONDARY VALVE SPRING
3. GOVERNOR SECONDARY VALVE
4. GOVERNOR PRIMARY VALVE
5. GOVERNOR BODY6. ROLL PINIC~VFigure 7C-34 Governor Assemblythat is a function of output shaft or car speed. Line
pressure is supplied to the governor from the Manual
Valve (to be covered later). The governor operates on
the principle of centrifugal force. That is, as an object
spins off center at changing speeds, its outward force
is a function of the rotating speed.
Line pressure is directed to the outer-most port of the
secondary valve. The secondary spring holds the
valve in an outward position so that the outer spool
of the valve is open to “line”. As the line pressure
builds up between the spools, it exerts a force on the
larger diameter inner spool to start counteracting the
spring. When the hydraulic force is large enough, it
moves the valve inward against the spring force until
the outer spool closes the line port. If the pressure
between the spools still creates a force larger than the
spring force, the valve will continue to move inward
until the excess pressure opens to the exhaust port.
The valve then regulates between the line and ex-
haust port.
A fixed governor pressure in the secondary valve has
now been established with no rotation of the output
shaft. As the governor begins to rotate, the outward
force (due to the weight of the secondary valve) is
added to the force of the spring. Therefore, as the
speed increases, the outward force and in turn the
secondary valve pressure increases.
The secondary valve pressure is directed to the feed
port of the primary valve. With no rotation of the
governor, the pressure acts against the large inner
spool and forces it to open to the exhaust port. Since
there is no spring force on the primary valve, it will
continue to keep the feed port closed and the exhaust
port open. The final governor pressure is then zero.
As the governor begins to rotate, the weight of the
primary valve creates an outward force working
against the oil pressure. The pressure in the primary
valve port now increases as a function of speed. This
continues up to the speed where the outward force
finally holds the primary valve outward, keeping the
feed port open.
In summary, at zero speed, the governor pressure is
zero. As the speed increases, the governor pressure
will increase as dictated by the primary valve until
the speed is great enough to hold the primary valve
all the way out. At speeds above this point, the gover-
nor pressure is established by the secondary valve.
Governor pressure is then directed to:
Modulator Valve.
1 - Two Shift Valve.
2
- Three Shift Valve.
3 High Speed Downshift Timing Valve.

7C- 881973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Condition
6. Abrupt 3-2 coast downshift.Cause
a) Low speed downshift timing valve
stuck open.
7. Flare on high speed forceda) Low oil pressure.
downshift.b) Band adjustment loose
8. Flare on low speed forced
downshift.a) Low oil pressure.
b) Band adjustment loose.
c) High speed downshift timing valve
stuck in closed position.
d) Sprag race does not grip on 3-1 down shifting
Engine Braking
1. No engine braking in “L” range.a) Selector lever linkage improperly
adjusted.
b) Manual low control valve stuck.
2. No engine braking in “S” range.a) Selector lever linkage improperly
adjusted.
3. No park.a) Selector lever linkage improperly
adjusted.
b) Parking lock actuator spring.
c) Parking pawl.
d) Governor hub.
Noises1. Excessive noises in all drive
ranges.a) Too much backlash between sun gear
and planetary gears.
b) Lock plate on planetary carrier loose.
c) Thrust bearing defective.
d) Bearing bushings worn.
e) Excessive transmission axial play.
f) Unhooked parking paw1 spring contacts
governor hub.
g) Converter balancing weights loose.
h) Converter housing attaching bolt
loose and contacting converter.
2. Screaching noise when starting.
3. Short vibrating, hissing noise
shortly before 1-2 upshift.a) Converter failure.
a) Dampening cushion of reverse clutch
wearing into transmission case.
Abrasive
1. Excessive amount of iron dust
(can be picked up by magnet
in oil pan).a) Oil pump.
b) Governor hub.
c) Second clutch hub
2. Excessive amount of aluminum
dust (cannot be picked up by
magnet) in oil pan.a) Thrust face in case.
b) Rear bore of case.
c) Stator thrust washer
- check
converter end clearance.

9B-22 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
We can change a vapor back into a liquid by chilling
it, or do the same thing with pressure. When we
condense a vapor we will find that the heat removed
just exactly equals the amount of heat that was neces-
sary to make the substance vaporize in the first place.
At last the lost is found! The latent heat of vaporiza-
tion the heat that apparently disappeared when
a liquid boiled into a vapor again reappears on
the scene when that same vapor reverts back into a
liquid. It is just like putting air into a balloon to
expand it and then letting the same amount of air out
again to return the balloon to its original condition.
We know that any substance will condense at the
same temperature at which it boiled. This tempera-
ture point is a clear-cut division like a fence. On one
side, a substance is a liquid. Immediately on the
other side it is a vapor. Whichever way a substance
would go, from hot to cold or cold to hot, it will
change its character the moment it crosses over thefence.But pressure moves the fence! Water will boil at 212
degrees under normal conditions. Naturally, we ex-
pect steam to condense at the same temperature. But
whenever we put pressure on steam, it doesn’t! It will
condense at some temperature higher than 212 de-
grees. The greater the pressure, the higher the boiling
point and the temperature at which a vapor will
condense. This is the reason why pressure cookers
cook food faster, since the pressure on the water
permits it to boil out at a higher temperature. We
know that R-12 boils at 21.7 degrees below zero. A
thermometer will show us that the rising vapors,
even though they have soaked up lots of heat, are
only slightly warmer. But the vapors must be made
warmer than the room air if we expect heat to flow
out of them. Also, the condensing point temperature
must be above that of room air or else the vapors
won’t condense.This is where pressure comes to the rescue. With
pressure, we can compress the vapor, thereby con-
centrating the heat it contains. When we concentrate
heat in a vapor that way, we increase the intensity of
the heat or, in other words, we increase the tempera-ture;because temperature is merely a measurement
of heat intensity. And the most amazing part of it all
is that we’ve made the vapor hotter without actually
adding any additional quantity of heat (Fig.
9B-12).
Use of Pressure in RefrigerationBecause we must live by press&s and gauges in air
conditioning work, the following points are men-
tioned so that we will all be talking about the same
thing when we speak of pressures.
All pressure, regardless of how it is produced, is
measured in pounds per square inch (psi).Figure 98.12 Compressing a Vapor Concentrates its
HeatAtmospheric Pressure is pressure exerted in every
direction by the weight of the atmosphere. At higher
altitudes air is raritied and has less weight. At sea
level atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi.
Any pressure less than atmospheric is known as a
partial vacuum or commonly called a vacuum. A
perfect vacuum or region of no pressure has never
been mechanically produced. Gauge pressure is used
in refrigeration work. Gauges are calibrated in
pounds (psi) of pressure and inches of Mercury for
vacuum. At sea level
“0” lbs. gauge pressure is
equivalent to 14.7 lbs. atmospheric pressure. Pres-
sure greater than atmospheric is measured in pounds
(psi) and pressure below atmospheric is measured in
inches of vacuum. The “0” on the gauge will always
correspond to the surrounding atmospheric pressure,
regardless of the elevation where the gauge is being
used.
Basic Refrigerator OperationWe’ve now covered all the ground-rules that apply to
refrigeration. Most likely they still are a little hazy,
but it is easy enough to remember these main points.
All liquids soak up lots of heat without getting any
warmer when they boil into a vapor, and, we can use
pressure to make the vapor condense back into a
liquid so it can be used over again. With just that
amount of knowledge, here is how we can build a
refrigerator.
We can place a flask of refrigerant in an ice-box. We
know it will boil at a very cold temperature and will
draw heat away from everything inside the cabinet
(Fig. 9B-13).
We can pipe the rising vapors outside the cabinet and
thus provide a way for carrying the heat out. Once

9B-44 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Do not turn refrigerant drum upside down, as this
would allow liquid refrigerant to enter compressor
which may cause damage.
4. If line at center gauge fitting has not been purged
of air, loosen line at center fitting on gauge set and
crack valve on refrigerant drum to blow air from
line. Retighten line at center fitting and record exact
weight of refrigerant tank in water on the scales.
5. Open valve on refrigerant drum and both valves
on gauge set to allow refrigerant to flow into system.
Continue charging until the scales show that 2
Ibs.Opel 1900
- Manta and 2 l/4 lbs. GT, of refrigerant
have been transferred from refrigerant drum to sys-
tem.If full charge cannot be obtained, close both valves
on gauge set, start engine, and set temperature con-
trol knob to full cold position with blower in Max Hi.
Open low pressure valve on gauge set slowly and
leave open until full charge is added.
WARNING: Observe high pressure gauge while charg-
ing with compressor running. Shut
offengine ifpres-
sure exceeds 250 psi. A large fan placed in front
ol
the car wi// help reduce excessively high head pres-6. Close both valves on gauge set (high pressure valve
will already be closed if charging was completed by
running compressor) and close valve on refrigerant
drum.
If the engine was used to complete the charge into
the system, close valve on refrigerant drum to permit
compressor to draw any refrigerant left in the line
from the drum to the center fitting of the gauge set,
then close the low pressure valve on the gauge set.
7. Operate engine at 2000 RPM with temperature
control knob at full cold, blower speed in Max Hi.
After ten minutes of operation, observe appearance
of refrigerant in receiver-dehydrator. If bubbles are
observed, open low pressure gauge valve and valve
on refrigerant drum to allow more refrigerant to en-
ter system. Close valve when receiver-dehydrator
clears
up.If an air inlet temperature is below 70 degrees F.
when this check is made, bubbles may appear, even
though the proper amount of refrigerant is in the
system. Air inlet temperature must be 70 degrees F.
or above to make an accurate check.
8. When refrigerant has been installed, continue to
operate system and test for proper operation as ou-
tlined under “Operational Test”.
9. When satisfied that air conditioning system is op-
erating properly, stop engine, remove gauge set and
replace protective caps on compressor fittings.10. Using leak detector, check complete system for
leaks.Disposable Can Method
After having
depress&ed, repaired (if necessary)
and evacuated the refrigerant system, the system
may be charged as follows using refrigerant in dis-
posable cans:
1. Obtain three (3) 1
lb. cans or one 12 lb. can of
refrigerant.
2. If using 1 lb. cans, mount two (2) cans in J-6272-
02 (Multi-opener) or attach J-6271 (single-can
opener valve) on one can. If using the 12
lb. disposa-
ble can, attach J-23390 (disposable can control valve)
on can.WARNING: Make sure outlet valve on opener is
closed (clockwise) before installing opener.A. If the J-6272-02 multi-opener is used, raise lock-
ing lever, position three (3) cans of refrigerant and
force locking lever down to secure cans and at same
time puncture top of can to make it ready for charg-
ing.
B. If the J-6271 valve is used, back off the valve from
the can top retainer, slip the valve onto the can and
turn the valve into retainer until tight. DO NOT
open outlet valve during this operation, as turning
the valve into the retainer punctures top of can to
make it ready for charging.
3. Connect center flexible line of gauge set to fitting
on a can opener valve. If the line at center gauge
fitting has not been purged of air, loosen line at
center fitting on gauge set and “crack” valve at can
opener (for a second or two) to force air from the
line. Retighten line at center fitting.
4. Open valve at refrigerant source and at low and
high pressure valves on manifold gauge set. Leave
valve open at refrigerant source until all refrigerant
(when using 1 lb. can) has ‘entered the refrigeration
system or system is fully charged. Close valve on can.
A. If the system is charged using
1 lb. cans and the
J- 627 1 valve, disconnect valve from can. Leave valve
closed to flexible line to the center fitting of the
manifold gauge set. Install valve on a new and full
disposable can of refrigerant.

98-46 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
shut off vacuum pump. Open refrigerant control
valve and allow some refrigerant to enter system.
Locate and repair all leaks.
7. After evacuating for 15 minutes, add l/2 lb. of
refrigerant to system. Purge this
l/2 lb. and reevacu-
ate for 15 minutes. This second evacuation is to be
certain that as much contamination is removed from
the system as possible.
8. Only after evacuating as above, system is ready
for charging. Note reading on sight glass of charging
cylinder. If it does not contain a sufficient amount
for a full charge, till to proper level.
9. Close low pressure valve on charging station.
Fully open station refrigerant control valve and al-
low all liquid refrigerant to enter system. When full
charge of refrigerant has entered system, turn off
refrigerant control valve and close both hand shut-
off valves.
10. If full charge of refrigerant will not enter system,
close high pressure control and refrigerant control
valves. Start engine and run at low idle with com-
pressor operating. Crack refrigerant control valve
and low pressure control on station. Watch low side
gauge and keep gauge below 50 psi by regulating
refrigerant control valve. Closing valve will lower
pressure. This is to prevent liquid refrigerant from
reaching the compressor while the compressor is op-
erating. When required charge has entered system,
close refrigerant control valve and close low pressure
control.
11. System is now charged and should be perform-
ance- tested before removing gauges.
Adding Refrigerant
The following procedure should be used in adding
small amounts of refrigerant that may have been lost
by leaks or while opening system for servicing the
compressor. Before adding refrigerent to replace that
lost by leaks, check for evidence of oil loss and add
oil if necessary.
This procedure will only apply if the air inlet temper-
ature is above 70 degrees F. at the condenser.
1. Remove caps from compressor gauge fittings.
Attach gauge set to gauge fittings, making sure
adapter (J- 5420) is between low pressure gauge hose
and suction gauge fitting, and J-9459 is between high
pressure gauge hose and discharge gauge fitting.
2. Start engine, turn air conditioning temperature
control knob to full cold position, blower switch to
Max Hi. Operate for ten
(IO) minutes at 2000 RPM
to stabilize system.
3. Observe the refrigerant through the sight glasscover of receiver-dehydrator with the system operat-
ing,
IO see if there are any bubbles evident.
a. If no bubbles are evident, then bleed system slowly
through the discharge valve until bubbles appear in
the receiver-dehydrator. Add 1 lb. of refrigerant as
explained under “Charging the
ISystem”.b. If bubbles are visible in the receiver-dehydrator
with the temperature control krlob in the full cold
position and the blower at MAX speed, it indicates
a partial or complete plug in a line, a shortage of
refrigerant, or both. Correct condition. Add refriger-
ant
u~ntil the sight glass clears, then add another 1 lb.
of refrigerant.
4. Attach flexible hose from center fitting of gauge
set loosely to refrigerant drum or on disposable can
valvxs. Open high and low pressure valves on the
gauge set slightly to purge pressure gauge lines of air.
Tighten fitting of refrigerant drum or can when satis-
fied ihat all air has been removed from gauge lines.
Close (clockwise) both hand shut-off valves or gauge
set.5. Partially charge system.
REFRIGERANT DRUM METHOD:
A. Place pail containing hot water that does not have
a temperature exceeding 125 degrees F. on scales,
place refrigerant drum in pa” containing water, note
weig,ht and only open low pressure valve on gauge
set.B. Start engine, turn temperature control knob to full
cold position and place blower switch in Max Hi.
Operate engine for 10 minutes at 2000 RPM to sta-
bilize system.
C. With compressor operating, slowly open valve on
refrigerant drum and allow refrigerant to flow into
system (through manifold gauge set) until liquid in-
dicator clears up and immediately shut off valve ai
gauge set or on refrigerant drum. Check weight of
refrigerant drum and pail of water. Then slowly open
valve on gauge set (or refrigerant drum) and add one
more lb. of refrigerant. Note total amount of refriger-
ant added.
DISPOSABLE CAN METHOD:
A. Make sure the outlet valve on the J-6271 valve is
fully clockwise and attach the J-6271 to a 1 lb. can
of refrigerant by backing off the valve from the top
of the retainer, slipping the valve onto the can and
turning the valve into the retainer until tight. DO
NOT accidentally open outlet valve during this oper-
ation, as turning the valve into the retainer punctures
the top of the can to make it ready for charging.
.