lock PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 2006 Manual Online

Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and nd
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You
can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop
in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room.
That is the time for evasive action — steering around
the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes.
SeeBraking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much
speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
4-15

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If you do not have the Enhanced Traction System (ETS)
or the Traction Control System (TCS), or if the system
is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled
by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. See
Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-11or
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9.If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow
on the road to make a mirrored surface — and
slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do
not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
4-18

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will
have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be
very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the leasttraction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
If you have the Traction Control System (TCS) or the
Enhanced Traction System (ETS), it will improve
your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery
road. Even though your vehicle has a traction system
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the
road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may
want to turn the TCS or ETS off, such as when driving
through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-9orEnhanced Traction
System (ETS) on page 4-11.
If you do not have TCS or ETS, accelerate gently. Try
not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate
too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
Unless you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
you will want to brake very gently, too. If you do
have ABS, seeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-7. This system improves your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Whether you have ABS or not, you will want to begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
4-29

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
4-31

Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information label is
attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With
the driver’s door open, you will nd the label attached
below the door lock post (striker). The tire and
loading information label lists the number of occupant
seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity
weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire
size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire ination pressures (D). For more
information on tires and ination, seeTires on
page 5-60andInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.
There is also important loading information on the
Certication label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certication
Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the statement “The combined weight
of occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. Label Example
4-34

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Tire Loading Information label, that is on the inside of
the trunk lid. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.
Be sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or
the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If a weight distribution hitch is used, make sure not to go
over the rear axle limit before applying the weight
distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are
a few reasons why the correct hitch is needed. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
If any holes need to be made in the body of the
vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to seal
the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes
are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from
the exhaust can get into the vehicle. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-33. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the
trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do
not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just
enough slack so the rig can be turned around. And,
never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to
tap into the vehicle’s brake system. If this is done,
both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, get to know the rig.
Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking
with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in
mind that the vehicle is now a good deal longer and not
nearly as responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
4-43

When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-71
Buying New Tires.........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels......................5-73
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-74
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-75
Wheel Replacement......................................5-75
Tire Chains..................................................5-77
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-77
Tire Inator Kit (GXP)....................................5-79
Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-88
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools................5-90
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire..........................................5-91
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools............5-97
Compact Spare Tire......................................5-99
Appearance Care............................................5-99
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle.................5-99
Fabric/Carpet..............................................5-101
Leather......................................................5-103
Ultra Lux Suede..........................................5-103
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other
Plastic Surfaces.......................................5-104
Care of Safety Belts....................................5-104
Weatherstrips.............................................5-104Washing Your Vehicle..................................5-105
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses....................5-105
Finish Care................................................5-105
Windshield and Wiper Blades.......................5-106
Aluminum Wheels.......................................5-106
Tires.........................................................5-107
Sheet Metal Damage...................................5-107
Finish Damage...........................................5-107
Underbody Maintenance...............................5-108
Chemical Paint Spotting...............................5-108
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials................5-109
Vehicle Identication.....................................5-110
Vehicle Identication Number (VIN)................5-110
Service Parts Identication Label...................5-110
Electrical System..........................................5-111
Add-On Electrical Equipment.........................5-111
Headlamp Wiring........................................5-111
Windshield Wiper Fuses...............................5-111
Power Windows and Other Power Options......5-111
Fuses and Circuit Breakers..........................5-112
Instrument Panel Fuse Block........................5-112
Underhood Fuse Block................................5-114
Capacities and Specications........................5-118
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-2

Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer
for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts
and GM-trained and supported service people.
We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modications
When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they
can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety,
including such things as, braking, stability, ride and
handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability,
and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction
control and stability control. Some of these accessories
may even cause malfunction or damage not covered
by warranty.
GM Accessories are designed to complement and
function with other systems on your vehicle. Your
GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine
GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer
and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that
GM-trained and supported service technicians will
perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.
California Proposition 65 Warning
Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or
emit chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems
(including some inside the vehicle), many uids, and
some component wear by-products contain and/or emit
these chemicals.
5-3

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel
door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise.
The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released
too soon, it will spring back to the right.
While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether
below the fuel ll opening.
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it,
you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out
on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly.
This spray can happen if your tank is nearly
full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open
the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise
to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overll the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have nished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel
from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See
Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105.
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it
clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has
been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel
to evaporate into the atmosphere. SeeMalfunction
Indicator Lamp on page 3-47.
5-8

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-41.
B. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-45.
C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-46.
D. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-114.
E. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-30.
F. Pressure Cap. SeePressure Cap on page 5-28.
G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine
compartment). SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-40.
H. Supercharger Oil Fill Location (If Equipped). See
Supercharger Oil on page 5-20.I. Electric Cooling Fan. SeeCooling System on
page 5-30.
J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
L. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. See “How to Add
Coolant to the Radiator” underCooling System on
page 5-30.
M. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking
the Fluid Level” underAutomatic Transaxle Fluid
on page 5-23.
N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-42.
O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
5-13