lock YAMAHA WR 250F 2014 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: YAMAHA, Model Year: 2014, Model line: WR 250F, Model: YAMAHA WR 250F 2014Pages: 230, PDF Size: 13.01 MB
Page 46 of 230

2-15
TIGHTENING TORQUES
△Front brake disc M6 6 12 Nm (1.2 m•kg, 8.7 ft•lb)
△Rear brake disc M6 6 14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10 ft•lb)
△Brake pedal M8 1 26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19 ft•lb)
△Rear brake master cylinder M6 2 10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 ft•lb)
Rear brake master cylinder cap M4 2 2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4 ft•lb)
△
Rear brake hose union bolt M10 2 30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22 ft•lb)Copper
washer
△Rear wheel axle and axle nut M20 1 125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90 ft•lb)
△Nipple (spoke) — 72 3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2 ft•lb)
△Rear wheel sprocket M8 6 50 Nm (5.0 m•kg, 36 ft•lb)
△Rear brake disc cover M6 2 10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2 ft•lb)
△Rear brake caliper protector M6 2 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
Drive chain puller adjust bolt and locknut M8 2 19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13 ft•lb)
Engine mounting:
△Engine and engine bracket (front) M10 1 53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38 ft•lb)
△Engine and frame (lower) M10 1 53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38 ft•lb)
△Upper engine bracket and frame M8 4 34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24 ft•lb)
△Lower engine bracket and frame M8 4 34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24 ft•lb)
△Engine and engine bracket (upper) M10 1 55 Nm (5.5 m•kg, 40 ft•lb)
△Engine guard M6 3 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
Regulator M6 2 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
△Pivot shaft and nut M16 1 85 Nm (8.5 m•kg, 61 ft•lb)
△Relay arm and swingarm M14 1 70 Nm (7.0 m•kg, 50 ft•lb)
△Relay arm and connecting rod M14 1 80 Nm (8.0 m•kg, 58 ft•lb)
△Connecting rod and frame M14 1 80 Nm (8.0 m•kg, 58 ft•lb)
△Rear shock absorber and frame M10 1 56 Nm (5.6 m•kg, 40 ft•lb)
△Rear shock absorber and relay arm M10 1 53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38 ft•lb)
△Rear frame (upper) M8 1 38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27 ft•lb)
△Rear frame (lower) M8 2 32 Nm (3.2 m•kg, 23 ft•lb)
△Swingarm and brake hose holder M54 3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2 ft•lb)
Swingarm and patch M4 4 2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4 ft•lb)
Upper drive chain tensioner M8 1 16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11 ft•lb)
Lower drive chain tensioner M8 1 16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11 ft•lb)
Drive chain support M6 3 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
Seal guard and swingarm M5 4 6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3 ft•lb)
△Fuel tank M6 2 9 Nm (0.9 m•kg, 6.5 ft•lb)
△Fuel cock M6 2 4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9 ft•lb)
Seat set bracket and fuel tankM6 1 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
Fuel tank bracket and fuel tank M6 4 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
△Air scoop and fuel tank M6 6 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
△Air scoop and radiator guard (lower) M6 2 6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3 ft•lb)
△Front fender M6 4 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
△Rear fender (front) M6 2 7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft•lb)
△Rear fender (rear) M6 2 11 Nm (1.1 m•kg, 8.0 ft•lb)ItemThread
sizeQ'ty Tightening torque Remarks
Page 53 of 230

2-22
CABLE ROUTING DIAGRAM
A. Insert the end of the fuel tank
breather hose into the hole in
the steering stem.
B. Fasten the throttle cable, hot
starter cable and rectifier/regula-
tor lead onto the frame. Locate
the clamp under the throttle ca-
ble on the right side of the frame,
and face its ends, as well as the
tie ends, downward.
C. Fasten the diode (at the mark-
ing), throttle cable and hot start-
er cable onto the frame. Locate
the clamp end facing toward the
lower right of the frame and with
the tie end facing downward.
D. Fasten the wire harness, throttle
position sensor lead, starter mo-
tor lead and negative battery
lead onto the frame. Pass the
clamp through the hole in the
stay (air cut-off valve). Locate
the clamp end facing toward the
lower side of the frame and cut
off the tie end.
E. Pass the carburetor breather
hoses, carburetor overflow hose
and catch tank breather hose
between the connecting rod and
cross tube (frame).
F. Fasten the neutral switch lead
and oil hose together with the
plastic locking ties and cut off
the tie ends.
G. Fasten the neutral switch lead
and AC magneto lead onto the
frame. Locate the clamp end
facing toward the outside of the
frame and tie end facing toward
the rear of the frame.
H. Pass the clutch cable through
the cable guide.
I. Fasten the starter motor lead,
AC magneto lead and neutral
switch lead onto the frame. Lo-
cate the clamp end facing to-
ward the rear of the frame and
cut off the tie end.
J. Fasten the clutch cable, starter
motor lead, negative battery
lead, AC magneto lead and neu-
tral switch lead onto the frame.
Locate the clamp end facing to-
ward the rear of the frame and
cut off the tie end.
K. Pass the neutral switch lead and
AC magneto lead on the inside
of the wire harness.
L. Fasten the clutch cable, AC
magneto lead and neutral switch
lead onto the frame. Locate the
clamp end near the clutch cable
and cut off the tie end.M. Pass the clutch cable and wire
harness through the cable
guide.
N. Locate the couplers in the frame
recess.
O. Pass the carburetor breather
hoses, carburetor overflow hose
and catch tank breather hose so
that the hoses do not contact the
rear shock absorber.
P. Secure the coupler by pushing it
into the hole in the headlight
unit.
Q. Fasten the throttle position sen-
sor lead and the hot starter ca-
ble.
R. Locate the clamp between the
hot starter cable protector and
rubber cap.
Page 68 of 230

3-9
ENGINE
CHECKING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• Gasket "1"
Damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Install:
• Gasket
• Exhaust pipe "1"
• Nut (exhaust pipe) "2"
First, temporarily install both nuts,
then tighten either of these nuts to 13
Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4 ft•lb) and the other
to 20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 ft•lb), and
then come back to the first one and
retighten it to 20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb).
2. Install:
• Silencer clamp "1"
• Gasket "2"
• Silencer "3"
• Washer "4"
• Bolt (silencer) "5"CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
1. RadiatorCHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Seat
• Left side cover
3. Remove the catch tank hose from
the catch tank and drain the tank
of its coolant.
4. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
5. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
6. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
7. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
8. Fill:
•Radiator
• Engine
To specified level. Nut (exhaust pipe):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Silencer clamp:
16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11
ft•lb)
Bolt (silencer):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
0.99 L (0.87 Imp qt, 1.05
US qt)
Page 69 of 230

3-10
ENGINE
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your
clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed.
Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
9. Install:
• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
10. Check:
• Coolant level
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect:
• Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"
Crack/damage→Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3" →Clean or
replace.CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
Apply water on the radiator cap seal.
3. Radiator cap
2. Apply the specified pressure.
3. Inspect:
•Pressure
Impossible to maintain the speci-
fied pressure for 10 seconds→
Replace.
CHECKING THE COOLING
SYSTEM
1. Inspect:
• Coolant level
2. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
3. Apply the specified pressure.
• Do not apply pressure more than
specified pressure.
• Radiator should be filled fully.
4. Inspect:
• Pressure
Impossible to maintain the speci-
fied pressure for 10 seconds→
Repair.
•Radiator "1"
• Radiator hose joint "2"
Coolant leakage→Repair or re-
place.
• Radiator hose "3"
Swelling→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH LEVER
FREE PLAY
1. Check:
• Clutch lever free play "a"
Out of specification→Adjust.
2. Adjust:
• Clutch lever free play
Clutch lever free play adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the locknuts "1".
b. Adjust the free play by changing
their tightening position.
c. Tighten the locknuts.
• Make minute adjustment on the le-
ver side using the adjuster "2".
• After adjustment, check proper op-
eration of clutch lever.
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-A/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352
Radiator cap opening
pressure:
95.0–125.0 kPa (0.95–
1.25 kg/cm
2, 13.8–18.1
psi)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-A/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352
Standard pressure:
180 kPa (1.8 kg/cm
2,
25.6 psi)
Clutch lever free play "a"
:
8.0–13.0 mm (0.31–0.51
in)
Locknut:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Page 70 of 230

3-11
ENGINE
ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE GRIP
FREE PLAY
1. Check:
• Throttle grip free play "a"
Out of specification→Adjust.
2. Adjust:
• Throttle grip free play
Adjustment steps:
a. Slide the adjuster cover.
b. Loosen the locknut "1".
c. Turn the adjuster "2" until the
specified free play is obtained.
d. Tighten the locknut.
Prior to adjusting throttle grip free
play, the engine idling speed should
be adjusted.
After adjusting the throttle grip
free play, turn the handlebar to the
right and to the left to ensure that
this does not cause the engine
idling speed to change.
LUBRICATING THE THROTTLE
1. Remove:
• Cover (throttle cable cap) "1"
• Cover (grip cap) "2"
• Throttle grip cap "3"
2. Apply:
• Lithium soap base grease
On the throttle cable end "a".
3. Install:
• Throttle grip cap
• Screw (throttle grip cap)
• Cover (grip cap)
• Cover (throttle cable cap)
ADJUSTING THE HOT STARTER
LEVER FREE PLAY
1. Check:
• Hot starter lever free play "a"
Out of specification→Adjust.
2. Adjust:
• Hot starter lever free play
Hot starter lever free play adjust-
ment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the adjuster "2" until free
play "a" is within the specified lim-
its.
c. Tighten the locknut.
After adjustment, check proper oper-
ation of hot starter.
CLEANING THE AIR FILTER
ELEMENT
Proper air filter maintenance is the
biggest key to preventing premature
engine wear and damage.
Never run the engine without the
air filter element in place; this
would allow dirt and dust to enter
the engine and cause rapid wear
and possible engine damage.
1. Open the air filter case cover "1"
Loosen the quick screw "2" and pull
on it to open the air filter case cover.
2. Unhook:
•Binder "1"
3. Remove:
• Air filter element "1"
• Air filter guide "2" Throttle grip free play
"a":
3.0–5.0 mm (0.12–0.20
in)
Locknut:
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)
Screw (throttle grip cap):
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)
Hot starter lever free play
"a":
3–6 mm (0.12–0.24 in)
Locknut:
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)
Page 73 of 230

3-14
ENGINE
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
(For EUROPE)
1. Adjust:
• Pilot screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
To optimize the fuel flow at a smaller
throttle opening, each machine's pilot
screw has been individually set at the
factory. Before adjusting the pilot
screw, turn it in fully and count the
number of turns. Record this number
as the factory-set number of turns
out.
a. Turn in the pilot screw until it is
lightly seated.
b. Turn out the pilot screw by the
factory-set number of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Turn the throttle stop screw "1"
until the specified engine idling
speed.
Using a digital engine tachometer for
idle speed adjustment, detect the en-
gine idling speed by bringing the
sensing element "c" of the engine ta-
chometer close to the ignition coil "2".
ADJUSTING THE VALVE
CLEARANCE
This section is intended for those who
have basic knowledge and skill con-
cerning the servicing of Yamaha mo-
torcycles (e.g., Yamaha dealers,
service engineers, etc.) Those who
have little knowledge and skill con-
cerning servicing are requested not to
undertake inspection, adjustment,
disassembly, or reassembly only by
reference to this manual. It may lead
to servicing trouble and mechanical
damage.
• The valve clearance should be ad-
justed when the engine is cool to
the touch.
• The piston must be at Top Dead
Center (T.D.C.) on compression
stroke to check or adjust the valve
clearance.
1. Remove:
•Seat
•Fuel tank
Refer to "SEAT, FUEL TANK
AND SIDE COVERS" section.
2. Drain:
• Coolant
Refer to "CHANGING THE
COOLANT" section.
3. Remove:
• Right radiator
Right to "RADIATOR" section in
the CHAPTER 5.
• Carburetor
Refer to "CARBURETOR" section
in the CHAPTER 5.
• Spark plug
• Upper engine bracket
• Cylinder head cover
Refer to "CAMSHAFTS" section
in the CHAPTER 5.4. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
• Crankshaft end accessing screw
"2"
• O-ring
5. Check:
• Valve clearance
Out of specification→Adjust.
Checking steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
b. Align the T.D.C. mark "a" on the
rotor with the align mark "b" on the
crankcase cover when piston is at
T.D.C. on compression stroke.
In order to be sure that the piston is at
Top Dead Center, the punch mark "c"
on the exhaust camshaft and the
punch mark "d" on the intake cam-
shaft must align with the cylinder
head surface, as shown in the illustra-
tion.
c. Measure the valve clearance "e"
using a feeler gauge "1".
Record the measured reading if the
clearance is incorrect.
Pilot screw (example):
2 turns out
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "1" in "a".
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "1" out "b".
Engine idling speed:
1,750–1,950 r/min
Valve clearance (cold):
Intake valve:
0.10–0.15 mm
(0.0039–0.0059 in)
Exhaust valve:
0.17–0.22 mm
(0.0067–0.0087 in)
Page 76 of 230

3-17
CHASSIS
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
• Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1".
A. Front
B. Rear
d. Place the other end of the tube
into a container.
e. Slowly apply the brake lever or
pedal several times.f. Pull the lever in or push down on
the pedal. Hold the lever or pedal
in position.
g. Loosen the bleed screw and allow
the lever or pedal to travel to-
wards its limit.
h. Tighten the bleed screw when the
lever or pedal limit has been
reached; then release the lever or
pedal.
i. Repeat steps (e) to (h) until of the
air bubbles have been removed
from the system.
If bleeding is difficult, it may be nec-
essary to let the brake fluid system
stabilize for a few hours. Repeat the
bleeding procedure when the tiny
bubbles in the system have disap-
peared.
j. Add brake fluid to the level line on
the reservoir.
Check the operation of the brake
after bleeding the brake system.
3. Install:
• Protector (rear brake)
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap
ADJUSTING THE FRONT BRAKE
1. Check:
• Brake lever position "a"2. Remove:
• Brake lever cover
3. Adjust:
• Brake lever position
Brake lever position adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the adjusting bolt "2" until the
lever position "a" is within speci-
fied position.
c. Tighten the locknut.
Be sure to tighten the locknut, as it
will cause poor brake perfor-
mance.
4. Install:
• Brake lever cover
ADJUSTING THE REAR BRAKE
1. Check:
• Brake pedal height "a"
Out of specification→Adjust.
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Brake lever position "a":
Standard posi-
tionExtent of ad-
justment
95 mm (3.74 in)76–97 mm
(2.99–3.82 in)
Locknut:
5 Nm (0.5 m •kg, 3.6
ft•lb)
Brake pedal height "a":
10.0 mm (0.39 in)
Page 77 of 230

3-18
CHASSIS
2. Adjust:
• Brake pedal height
Pedal height adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the adjusting nut "2" until the
pedal height "a" is within specified
height.
c. Tighten the locknut.
• Adjust the pedal height between
the maximum "A" and the mini-
mum "B" as shown. (In this ad-
justment, the bolt "3" end "b"
should protrude out of the
threaded portion "4" but not be
less than 2 mm (0.08 in) "c" away
from the brake pedal "5").
• After the pedal height adjust-
ment, make sure that the rear
brake does not drag.
CHECKING AND REPLACING THE
FRONT BRAKE PADS
1. Inspect:
• Brake pad thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace as
a set.2. Replace:
•Brake pad
Brake pad replacement steps:
a. Remove the pad pin plug "1".
b. Loosen the pad pin "2".
c. Remove the brake caliper "3"
from the front fork.
d. Remove the pad pin and brake
pads "4".
e. Connect the transparent hose "5"
to the bleed screw "6" and place
the suitable container under its
end.
f. Loosen the bleed screw and push
the brake caliper piston in.
Do not reuse the drained brake flu-
id.
g. Tighten the bleed screw.
h. Install the brake pads "7" and pad
pin.
• Install the brake pads with their pro-
jections "a" into the brake caliper re-
cesses "b".
• Temporarily tighten the pad pin at
this point.
i. Install the brake caliper "8" and
tighten the pad pin "9".
j. Install the pad pin plug "10".
Brake pad thickness:
4.4 mm (0.17 in)
in)
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake caliper):
23 Nm (2.3 m•kg, 17
ft•lb)
Pad pin:
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Pad pin plug:
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Page 80 of 230

3-21
CHASSIS
8. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screw Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48.0–58.0 mm (1.89–
2.28 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Page 81 of 230

3-22
CHASSIS
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Remove:
• Rubber cap
2. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
3. Install:
• Rubber cap
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame
3. Measure:
• Spring fitting length
The I.D. mark "a" is marked at the end
of the spring.
4. Adjust:
• Spring preload
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Loosen the adjuster "2" until there
is some clearance between the
spring and adjuster.
c. Measure the spring free length
"a".
d. Turn the adjuster "2". Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
9 clicks out
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
11 clicks out
Standard fitting length:
I.D. MARK/Q'TY Length
Yellow/1 248.5 mm
(9.78 in)
* 245.0 mm
(9.65 in)
* For AUS, NZ and ZA
Stiffer →Increase the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2" in.)
Softer→Decrease the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2"
out.)