tire DODGE NEON 2000 Service Owner's Manual

LATERAL ARMS
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
Use the following procedure for removal and instal-
lation of one or both lateral arms on one side of the
vehicle's rear suspension.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the nut, bolt and washers attaching
both lateral arms to the knuckle (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove nut, washer, bolt and wheel alignment
cam attaching the lateral arms to the rear crossmem-
ber (Fig. 1).
(5) Remove the lateral arms from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Both lateral arms when being installed,
must be specifically positioned and orientated on
the vehicle. The lateral arm that has the same size
bushing sleeves on both ends must be mounted on
the forward side of the crossmember and knuckle
with the trimmed outer edge facing rearward. This
front arm is also marked with the word ªFOR-
WARDº. The side of the arm displaying this must
face forward.
The lateral arm with two different size bushing
sleeves must be mounted on the rearward side of
the crossmember and knuckle. Position the smaller
bushing sleeve end at the knuckle and the larger
bushing sleeve end at the rear crossmember (the
larger bushing sleeve is necessary to accommodate
the rear wheel alignment adjustment cam). If the
rear arm is to be mounted on the right side, the
trimmed outer edge must face rearward. If the rear
arm is to be mounted on the left side, the trimmed
outer edge must face forward.
(1) Following the note above, place the forward lat-
eral arm against the leading end of the knuckle, and
then install the short lateral arm mounting bolt with
a washer through the lateral arm and knuckle and
out the trailing end of the knuckle (Fig. 1).
(2) Following the note above, install the small
bushing sleeved end of the rear lateral arm onto the
end of the bolt just installed through the knuckle
(Fig. 1). Install a washer and nut onto the end of the
mounting bolt, but do not completely tighten the bolt
at this time.(3) Install a wheel alignment adjustment cam on
the long arm mounting bolt.
(4) Hold the rear lateral arm up against the cross-
member and install the long mounting bolt with the
adjustment cam through the lateral arm bushing and
rear crossmember (Fig. 1). The bolt must be installed
with the notch in the adjustment cam pointing
straight up.
(5) Position the forward lateral arm against the
rear crossmember hole. Pass the long mounting bolt
through the lateral arm bushing sleeve.
(6) Install a washer and nut onto the end of lateral
arm mounting bolt at the rear crossmember, but do
not completely tighten the bolt at this time.
NOTE: Once installed, each lateral arm should have
the bow in its length facing downward. Both right
side arms should have the trimmed outer edge fac-
ing toward the rear of the car. Left side arms should
have the trimmed outer edge facing each other. The
mounting bolt at the knuckle should have the nut at
the rear and the mounting bolt at the crossmember
should have the nut at the front (Fig. 13).
(7) Install tire and wheel assembly on the vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half specification.
Repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower the vehicle to the ground.
(9) With suspension at curb height, tighten the lat-
eral arm mounting bolt nut at the knuckle to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 13 Lateral Arms
1 ± REAR STABILIZER BAR
2 ± REAR LATERAL ARMS
3 ± RIGHT FRONT LATERAL ARM
4 ± LEFT FRONT LATERAL ARM
PLSUSPENSION 2 - 45
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(10) With suspension at curb height, tighten the
lateral arm mounting bolt nut at the crossmember to
88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(11) Set the rear toe on the vehicle to the required
specification as necessary. Refer to WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT in this service manual group.
TENSION STRUT
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.
(3) Disconnect the tension strut from the knuckle.
To do this, first hold the tension strut from turning
by using a wrench on the flat on the tension strut
and then remove the nut from the rear of the tension
strut (Fig. 14). Next, remove the tension strut
retainer, then the rear tension strut bayonet bushing
from the tension strut.
(4) Remove the nut attaching the parking brake
cable to the stud on the inboard tension strut mount-
ing bolt at the frame (Fig. 15). Remove the parking
brake cable from the stud.
(5) Remove the two mounting bolts holding the
tension bolts to the frame, then remove the tension
strut from the vehicle.(6) Remove the forward bayonet bushing and
retainer from the tension strut.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the forward retainer and a bayonet
bushing on the tension strut trailing end. Be sure the
stepped area of the bushing is installed to face the
knuckle.
(2) To install the knuckle on the tension, first stick
the trailing end through the hole in the lower end of
the knuckle, seating the bayonet bushing squarely
against the hole. Next, raise the end of the tension
strut with the spool bushing into its mounting posi-
tion on the frame (Fig. 15). Install the mounting
bolts securing the tension strut to the frame.
Remember, the mounting bolt with the stud on the
head is installed on the inboard side.
(3) Tighten the two mounting bolts at the frame to
a torque of 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Place the parking brake cable routing bracket
on the stud of the inboard mounting bolt and install
the nut securing it in place (Fig. 15). Tighten the nut
to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the rear bayonet bushing on the tension
strut. Be sure the stepped area of the bushing is
squarely seated into the hole in the knuckle.
(6) Install the rear tension strut retainer, then the
nut. To completely install the nut, place a wrench on
the flat formed into the tension strut and tighten the
nut (Fig. 14). Tighten the nut to a torque of 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence until all
Fig. 14 Tension Strut Nut Removal/Installation
1 ± KNUCKLE
2 ± TENSION STRUT
3 ± FLAT
Fig. 15 Tension Strut Mounting At Frame
1 ± TENSION STRUT MOUNTING BOLTS
2 ± TENSION STRUT
3 ± SPOOL BUSHING
4 ± NUT
5 ± PARKING BRAKE CABLE
2 - 46 SUSPENSIONPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

nuts are torqued to half specification. Repeat the
tightening sequence, this time, to full specified
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower the vehicle to ground level.
(9) Set the rear toe on the vehicle to the required
specification if necessary. Refer to WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT in this service manual group.
STABILIZER BAR (REAR)
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove both rear wheel and tire assemblies
from the vehicle.
(3) Remove the nut from the end of each rear sta-
bilizer bar link bolt (Fig. 16). Pull the bolt out
through the top of the link and remove the link from
each end of the stabilizer bar.
(4) Remove the two bolts securing each of the two
cushion retainers to the frame rails (Fig. 1), then
remove the cushion retainers, cushions and stabilizer
bar from the vehicle as an assembly.
(5) Pull the cushion retainers off the cushions.
(6) The cushions can be removed from the bar by
utilizing the pre-formed slit in each cushion and peel-
ing it off the bar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cushions on the stabilizer bar by
opening the slit in the cushion and wrapping the
cushion around the bar. When installed properly, the
slit in the cushion should face in the same direction
as the ends of the stabilizer bar, or toward the front
of the car once the bar is installed. The flat side of
each cushion should face upward.
(2) Install the retainers on the cushions, matching
the contour of each retainer with its cushion.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar, cushions and retain-
ers on the car as an assembly. The dipped area in the
center of the bar must face down to clear the well in
the luggage compartment.
(4) Install two bolts in each cushion retainer and
secure the stabilizer bar to the frame of the vehicle
(Fig. 1). Do not completely install the bolts at this
time.
(5) Reinstall each stabilizer bar link (Fig. 1):
²Place the link center sleeve and bushings
between the eye in the end of the stabilizer bar and
the link mounting bracket on the strut.
²Start the stabilizer bar link bolt with bushing
from the top, down through the stabilizer bar, inner
link bushings and sleeve, and strut link mounting
bracket.
²Install a lower bushing, then the nut. Do not
tighten the nut at this time.
(6) Install both tire and wheel assemblies on the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Repeat the tightening sequence, this
time, to full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower the vehicle to ground level or curb
height.
(8) Tighten the rear stabilizer bar cushion retainer
bolts to a torque of 34 N´m (300 in. lbs.).
(9) Tighten the stabilizer bar link nuts to a torque
of 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(10) Set the rear toe on the vehicle to the required
specification if necessary. Refer to WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT in this service manual group.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)
The strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
Refer to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section for the required procedure.
For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use strut spring compressor, Pentastar Ser-
vice Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equivalent,
to compress the coil spring. Follow the manufactur-
er's instructions closely.
Fig. 16 Stabilizer Bar Link
1 ± BRAKE HOSE BRACKET SCREW
2 ± STABILIZER BAR LINK
3 ± NUT
4 ± STRUT ASSEMBLY
PLSUSPENSION 2 - 47
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
(1) A worn or damaged driveshaft inner tripod
joint.
(2) A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner
tripod joint only).
(3) Improper wheel alignment. See Wheel Align-
ment in this group for alignment checking and set-
ting procedures and specifications.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
(1) Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the
backside of the wheel(s).
(2) Out of balance front tires or wheels. See Group
22, Wheels And Tires for the required balancing pro-
cedure.
(3) Improper tire and/or wheel runout. See Group
22, Wheels And Tires for the required runout check-
ing procedure.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
DRIVESHAFTS
CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special
lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants
from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as
allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or
pulling or pushing the ends can cut boots or dam-
age C/V joints. During removal and installation pro-
cedures, always support both ends of the driveshaft
to prevent damage.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The driveshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a driveshaft removed, install a PROPER±SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 203 N´m (150 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Place transaxle in gated park.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove wheel and tire assembly (Fig. 3).(5) Remove the driveshaft to hub and bearing
retaining nut (Fig. 4).
(6) If equipped with ABS, disconnect the front
wheel speed sensor and secure harness out of the
way.
Fig. 3 Wheel and Tire Removal
1 ± WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.
2 ± LUG NUT (5)
3 ± HUB
Fig. 4 Driveshaft Retaining Nut Removal
1 ± DRIVESHAFT
2 ± HUB
3 ± HUB NUT
PLDIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(8) Clean all foreign matter from threads of drive-
shaft outer stub axle. Install hub nut onto the
threads of the stub axle and tighten nut to 244 N´m
(180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 15).
(9) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install
front wheel lug nuts (Fig. 16) and tighten to 128 N´m
(95 ft. lbs.).(10) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle
assembly. Refer to Group 21 Transaxle, for the cor-
rect fluid level checking procedure for the type of
transaxle being checked.
(11) Lower vehicle.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
DRIVESHAFT RECONDITION
NOTE: The only service that is to be performed on
the driveshaft assemblies is the replacement of the
driveshaft seal boots.
If any failure of internal driveshaft components is
diagnosed during a vehicle road test or disassembly
of the driveshaft, the driveshaft will need to be
replaced as an assembly.
NOTE: Lubricant requirements and quantities are
different for inner joints than for outer joints. Use
only the recommended lubricants in the required
quantities when servicing driveshaft assemblies.
See (Fig. 17) for the exploded view of the front
driveshaft components.
INNER TRIPOD JOINT SEAL BOOT
REMOVAL
To remove sealing boot from driveshaft for replace-
ment, the driveshaft assembly must be removed from
the vehicle. See Driveshaft Removal and Installation
in this section for the required driveshaft removal
and replacement procedure.
The inner tripod joints use no internal retention in
the tripod housing to keep the spider assembly in the
housing. Therefore, do not pull on the interconnect-
ing shaft to disengage tripod housing from transmis-
sion stub shaft. Removal in this manner will cause
damage to the inboard joint sealing boots.
(1) Remove the driveshaft requiring boot replace-
ment from the vehicle. See Driveshaft Removal and
Installation in this section for the required driveshaft
removal procedure.
(2) Remove large boot clamp that retains inner tri-
pod joint sealing boot to tripod joint housing (Fig. 18)
and discard. Then remove small clamp that retains
inner tripod joint sealing boot to interconnecting
shaft and discard. Remove the sealing boot from the
tripod housing and slide it down the interconnecting
shaft.
Fig. 15 Driveshaft Retaining Nut Installation
1 ± DRIVESHAFT
2 ± HUB
3 ± HUB NUT
Fig. 16 Wheel and Tire Installation
1 ± WHEEL/TIRE ASSY.
2 ± LUG NUT (5)
3 ± HUB
PLDIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 7
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Driveshaft-to-Hub/Bearing
Nut................... 244N´m(180 ft. lbs.)
Knuckle-to-Ball Joint
Bolt/Nut................. 95N´m(70ft.lbs.)
Wheel/Tire-to-Hub/Bearing
Lug Nuts............... 128N´m(95ft.lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
DRIVESHAFT
Boot Clamp Installer C-4975A
Puller 6790
PLDIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 17

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION
When a vehicle needs to be stopped, the driver
applies the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes the
input rod of the power brake booster into the booster.
The booster uses vacuum to ease pedal effort as force
is transferred through the booster to the master cyl-
inder. The booster's output rod pushes in the master
cylinder's primary and secondary pistons applying
hydraulic pressure through the chassis brake tubes
and proportioning valves (rear only) to the brakes at
each tire and wheel assembly.
Front disc brakes control the braking of the front
wheels; rear braking is controlled by rear drum
brakes as standard equipment. Rear disc brakes and
an antilock brake system (ABS) with traction control
are optional.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on
both the non-antilock and antilock braking systems.
This means the left front and right rear brakes are
on one hydraulic circuit and the right front and left
rear are on the other.
Vehicles equipped with the optional antilock brake
system (ABS) use a system designated Mark 20e.
This system shares most base brake hardware used
on vehicles without ABS. A vehicle equipped with
ABS, however, uses a different master cylinder and
brake tubes. Also included in the ABS system is an
integrated control unit (ICU) and four wheel speed
sensors. These components are described in detail in
the ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM section in this
group of the service manual. All vehicles with ABS
come standard with four-wheel-disc brakes and trac-
tion control.
The parking brakes are hand-operated. When
applied, the parking brake lever pulls on cables that
actuate brake shoes at each rear wheel. The parking
brake lever has an automatic adjusting feature that
takes up any excessive slack in the parking brake
cable system.
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENTS
BRAKE PEDAL
A suspended-type brake pedal is used on this vehi-
cle. The pedal pivots on a shaft mounted in the pedal
support bracket under the instrument panel. The
pedal connects to the power brake booster input rod
and pushes it in when the pedal is applied.
The brake pedal and it's pad are serviceable sepa-
rately.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
There are two different power brake booster
designs, although externally they appear the same.
All vehicles use a 205 mm tandem diaphragm power
brake booster. The two boosters are internally tuned
differently depending on whether the vehicle is
equipped with the standard front disc/rear drum
brake combination or the optional front disc/rear disc
(four-wheel disc) brake combination. If the power
brake booster requires replacement, be sure it is
replaced with the correct part.
The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster assembly (Fig.
1). This tag contains the following information: The
production part number of the power brake booster,
the date it was built and who manufactured it.
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop the vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum-operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through the power brake booster check valve
(Fig. 2).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power booster
input rod moves forward. This opens and closes
valves in the power brake booster, allowing atmo-
spheric pressure to enter on one side of a diaphragm.
Engine vacuum is always present on the other side.
This difference in pressure forces the output rod of
the power booster out against the primary piston of
the master cylinder. As the pistons in the master cyl-
inder move forward, hydraulic pressure is created in
the brake system.
Fig. 1 Master Cylinder and Power Brake Booster
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PARTS IDENTIFICATION TAG
2 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 ± BRAKE FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH
4 ± MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 2 BRAKESPL

RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
The red BRAKE warning lamp is located in the
instrument panel cluster and illuminates when a low
brake fluid condition occurs or when the parking
brake lever is applied with the ignition key in the
ON position. In addition, the red BRAKE warning
lamp illuminates when the ignition switch is moved
from the OFF to the ON or CRANK position. This is
done to check the bulb's operation.
Problems with this system will generally be of the
type where the warning lamp fails to turn on when it
should, or remains on when it should not.
The red BRAKE warning lamp LED is supplied
with current anytime the ignition switch is ON. The
bulb is illuminated by completing the ground circuit
using any of the following components:
²the brake fluid level switch located in the mas-
ter cylinder reservoir
²the parking brake switch mounted on the park-
ing brake lever (Fig. 10)
²the ignition switch when the ignition switch is
first moved to the ON or CRANK position
²the mechanical instrument cluster (MIC) (with
ABS)
²the ABS electronic brake distribution (EBD)
The brake fluid level switch is located in the brake
fluid reservoir of the master cylinder assembly (Fig.
1). The purpose of the switch is to provide the driver
with an early warning that the brake fluid level inthe master cylinder reservoir has dropped below an
acceptable level.
As the fluid drops below the minimum level, the
fluid level switch closes and grounds the red BRAKE
warning lamp circuit. This turns on the red BRAKE
warning lamp. At this time, the master cylinder fluid
reservoir must be checked and filled to the full mark
with DOT 3 brake fluid. An abnormal loss of brake
fluid in the master cylinder fluid reservoir could be
caused by a leak in the hydraulic system. The entire
brake hydraulic system should be checked for evi-
dence of a leak.
The red BRAKE warning lamp can be turned on by
the MIC in the case where the ABS is experiencing a
problem where the amber ABS warning lamp needs
to be illuminated and cannot. The MIC will then illu-
minate the red BRAKE warning lamp.
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
The brake lamp switch is located under the instru-
ment panel, at the brake pedal arm (Fig. 13). It con-
trols operation of the vehicle's stop lamps. Also, if the
vehicle is equipped with speed control, the brake
lamp switch will deactivate the speed control when
the brake pedal is depressed.
When the brake pedal is depressed, the brake lamp
switch contacts are closed, completing the circuit to
the stop lamps, thus illuminating the stop lamps and
the center-high-mounted stop lamp (CHMSL).
Fig. 12 Drum-In-Hat Brake Rotor
1 ± REAR BRAKING DISK ROTOR
2 ± HAT SECTION OF REAR BRAKING DISC (PARKING BRAKE
BRAKING SURFACE)
Fig. 13 Brake Lamp Switch
1 ± SWITCH
2 ± CLIP
3 ± BRAKE PEDAL
4 ± CONNECTOR
5 - 8 BRAKESPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
NOTE: There are three diagnosis charts following
that cover the RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP,
BRAKE NOISE and OTHER BRAKE CONDITIONS.
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RED BRAKE WARNING
LAMP ON1. Parking brake lever not fully
released.1. Release parking brake lever.
2. Parking brake warning lamp switch
on parking brake lever.2. Inspect and replace switch as necessary.
3. Brake fluid level low in reservoir. 3. Fill reservoir. Check entire system for
leaks. Repair or replace as required.
4. Brake fluid level switch. 4. Disconnect switch wiring connector. If lamp
goes out, replace switch.
5. Mechanical instrument cluster (MIC)
problem.5. Refer to Chassis Diagnostic Procedures
manual.
6. ABS EBD malfunction. 6. Refer to ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
BRAKE NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC BRAKE CHIRP 1. Excessive brake rotor runout. 1. Follow brake rotor diagnosis and testing.
Correct as necessary.
2. Lack of lubricant on brake caliper
slides.2. Lubricate brake caliper slides.
DISC BRAKE RATTLE OR
CLUNK1. Broken or missing anti-rattle spring
clips on shoes.1. Replace brake shoes.
2. Caliper guide pins loose. 2. Tighten guide pins.
DISC BRAKE SQUEAK AT
LOW SPEED (WHILE
APPLYING LIGHT BRAKE
PEDAL EFFORT)1. Brake shoe linings. 1. Replace brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE CHIRP 1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates.
2. Wheel cylinder out of alignment. 2. Loosen wheel cylinder mounting bolts,
realign wheel cylinder with brake shoes and
tighten mounting bolts.
DRUM BRAKE CLUNK 1. Drum(s) have threaded machined
braking surface.1. Reface or replace drake drums as
necessary.
DRUM BRAKE HOWL OR
MOAN1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride and at
the anchor.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates and at the anchor.
2. Rear brake shoes. 2. Replace rear brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE SCRAPING
OR WHIRRING1. ABS wheel speed sensor or tone
wheel.1. Inspect, correct or replace faulty
component(s).
SCRAPING (METAL-TO-
METAL).1. Foreign object interference with
brakes.1. Inspect brakes and remove foreign object.
2. Brake shoes worn out. 2. Replace brake shoes. Inspect rotors and
drums. Reface or replace as necessary.
PLBRAKES 5 - 9

Some discoloration or wear of the rotor surface is
normal and does not require resurfacing when lin-
ings are replaced. If cracks or burned spots are evi-
dent, the rotor must be replaced.
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn
below minimum thickness or if machining the rotor
will cause its thickness to fall below specifications.
CAUTION: Do not machine the rotor if it will cause
the rotor to fall below minimum thickness.
Minimum thickness specifications are cast on the
rotor's unmachined surface (Fig. 14). Limits can also
be found in the table at the end of this brake rotor
information.
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Thickness variation in a rotor's braking surface
can result in pedal pulsation, chatter and surge. This
can also be caused by excessive runout in the rotor or
the hub.
Rotor thickness variation measurements should be
made in conjunction with measuring runout. Mea-
sure thickness of the brake rotor at 12 equal points
around the rotor braking surface with a micrometer
at a radius approximately 25 mm (1 inch) from edge
of rotor (Fig. 15). If thickness measurements vary by
more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch), the rotor should
refaced or replaced. Refer to SERVICE PROCE-
DURES in this section of this group for information
on brake rotor machining.
ROTOR RUNOUT
On-vehicle rotor runout is the combination of the
individual runout of the hub face and the runout ofthe rotor. (The hub and rotor runouts are separable).
To measure rotor runout on the vehicle, first remove
the tire and wheel assembly. Reinstall the wheel
mounting nuts on the studs, tightening the rotor to
the hub. Mount the Dial Indicator, Special Tool
C-3339, with Mounting Adaptor, Special Tool SP- 1910
on steering arm. The dial indicator plunger should
contact braking surface of rotor approximately one
inch from edge of rotor (Fig. 16). Check lateral runout
on both sides of the rotor, marking the low and high
spots on both. Runout limits can be found in the table
at the end of this brake rotor information.
If runout is in excess of the specification, check the
lateral runout of the hub face. Before removing the
rotor from the hub, place a chalk mark across both
the rotor and the one wheel stud closest to where the
high runout measurement was taken. This way, the
original mounting spot of the rotor on the hub is
indexed (Fig. 17).
Remove the rotor from the hub.
NOTE: Clean the hub face surface before checking
runout. This provides a clean surface to get an
accurate indicator reading.
Mount Dial Indicator, Special Tool C-3339, and
Mounting Adaptor, Special Tool SP-1910, to the steer-
ing knuckle. Position the indicator stem so it contacts
the hub face near the outer diameter. Care must be
taken to position stem outside of the stud circle, but
inside of the chamfer on the hub rim (Fig. 18).
Fig. 14 Minimum Brake Rotor Thickness Markings
(Typical)
1 ± ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS MARKING
2 ± ROTOR
Fig. 15 Checking Rotor For Thickness
1 ± CALIPER
PLBRAKES 5 - 13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)