FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Repair Manual

basic ABS system, with an additional pump
and valves fitted to the hydraulic actuator (see
illustration). If wheelspin is detected at a
speed below 30 mph, one of the valves
opens, to allow the pump to pressurise the
relevant brake, until the spinning wheel slows
to a rotational speed corresponding to the
speed of the vehicle. This has the effect of
transferring torque to the wheel with mosttraction. At the same time, the throttle plate is
closed slightly, to reduce the torque from the
engine. At speeds above 30 mph, the TCS
operates by throttle plate adjustment only.
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Although
genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the
dust created by wear of non-genuine pads
may contain asbestos, which is a health
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake pads or
disc. Also refer to the warning at the start
of Section 15 concerning brake fluid.
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands.
2Remove the front wheels. Work on onebrake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
3Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 2.3A, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order,
and read the caption under each illustration.
4Inspect the front brake disc for scoring and
cracks. If a detailed inspection is necessary,
refer to Section 4.
5The piston must be pushed back into the
2 Front brake pads - renewal
Braking system 9•3
9
1.4 Solenoid valves fitted to the ABS/TCS
hydraulic actuator
1 ABS/TCS actuator
2 ABS solenoid valves
3 TCS solenoid valves
1.3 Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and Traction Control System (TCS) component locations (left-hand-drive shown,
right-hand-drive similar)
1 ABS/TCS unit
2 ABS/TCS warning lights
3 TCS switch4 Rear wheel sensor ring location (drum
brakes left, disc brakes right)
5 Stop-light switch6 Self-test/diagnosis connectors
7 Front wheel sensor and ring
8 Throttle actuator
2.3A Prise the retaining clip from the
caliper. Hold it with a pair of pliers, to
avoid personal injury. On models fitted
with pad wear sensors, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring
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caliper bore, to provide room for the new
brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to
accomplish this. As the piston is depressed to
the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the
master cylinder will rise slightly. Make sure
that there is sufficient space in the brake fluid
reservoir to accept the displaced fluid, and if
necessary, syphon some off first.
6Fit the new pads using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but tighten the guide
bolts to the torque wrench setting given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter.
7On completion, firmly depress the brakepedal a few times, to bring the pads to their
normal working position. Check the level of
the brake fluid in the reservoir, and top-up if
necessary.
8Give the vehicle a short road test, to make
sure that the brakes are functioning correctly,
and to bed-in the new linings to the contours
of the disc. New linings will not provide
maximum braking efficiency until they have
bedded-in; avoid heavy braking as far as
possible for the first hundred miles or so.
Note:Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the previous Section before proceeding.Removal
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front wheel.
2Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose
leading to the front brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations (see illustration).
3Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible brake
hose (see illustration).
4Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
3 Front brake caliper -
removal, overhaul and refitting
9•4 Braking system
2.3B Prise the plastic covers from the
ends of the two guide pins2.3C Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew . . .2.3D . . . and remove the guide bolts
securing the caliper to the carrier bracket
2.3E Withdraw the caliper from the disc,
and support it on an axle stand to avoid
straining the hydraulic hose. The outer pad
will normally remain in position against the
disc, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper2.3F Pull the inner pad from the piston in
the caliper
3.2 Brake hose clamp fitted to the front
flexible brake hose3.3 Loosening the flexible brake hose at
the caliper3.6 Removing the caliper carrier bracket
2.3G Remove the outer pad from the
caliper frame. Brush all dust and dirt from
the caliper, pads and disc, but do not
inhale it, as it may be harmful to health.
Scrape any corrosion from the disc.
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5Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the hydraulic hose from turning with
the other hand. Unscrew the caliper from the
hose, making sure that the hose is not twisted
unduly or strained. Once the caliper is
detached, plug the open hydraulic unions in
the caliper and hose, to keep out dust and
dirt.
6If required, the caliper carrier bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the steering
knuckle (see illustration).
Overhaul
7With the caliper on the bench, brush away
all traces of dust and dirt, but take care not to
inhale any dust, as it may be injurious to
health.
8Pull the dust-excluding rubber seal from the
end of the piston.
9Apply low air pressure to the fluid inlet
union, and eject the piston. Only low air
pressure is required for this, such as is
produced by a foot-operated tyre pump.
Caution: The piston may be
ejected with some force.
10Using a suitable blunt instrument (for
instance a knitting needle or a crochet hook),
prise the piston seal from the groove in the
cylinder bore. Take care not to scratch the
surface of the bore.
11Clean the piston and caliper body with
methylated spirit, and allow to dry. Examine the
surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore for wear,
damage and corrosion. If the piston alone is
unserviceable, a new piston must be obtained,
along with seals. If the cylinder bore is
unserviceable, the complete caliper must be
renewed. The seals must be renewed, regardless
of the condition of the other components.
12Coat the piston and seals with clean
brake fluid, then manipulate the piston seal
into the groove in the cylinder bore.13Push the piston squarely into its bore.
14Fit the dust-excluding rubber seal onto
the piston and caliper, then depress the
piston fully.
Refitting
15Refit the caliper, and where applicable the
carrier bracket, by reversing the removal
operations. Make sure that the flexible brake
hose is not twisted. Tighten the mounting
bolts and wheel nuts to the specified torque
(see illustration).
16Bleed the brake circuit according to the
procedure given in Section 15, remembering
to remove the brake hose clamp from the
flexible hose. Make sure there are no leaks
from the hose connections. Test the brakes
carefully before returning the vehicle to
normal service.
Note:To prevent uneven braking, BOTH front
brake discs should be renewed or reground at
the same time.
Inspection
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the relevant
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
wheel.
2Remove the front brake caliper and carrier
bracket with reference to Section 3, but do
not disconnect the flexible hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or suspend it out of
the way with a piece of wire, taking care to
avoid straining the flexible hose.
3Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
4Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. The minimum thickness is stamped on
the disc hub (see illustrations). Light wear
and scoring is normal, but if excessive, thedisc should be removed, and either reground
by a specialist, or renewed. If regrinding is
undertaken, the minimum thickness must be
maintained. Obviously, if the disc is cracked,
it must be renewed.
5Using a dial gauge or a flat metal block and
feeler gauges, check that the disc run-out
10 mm from the outer edge does not exceed
the limit given in the Specifications. To do
this, fix the measuring equipment, and rotate
the disc, noting the variation in measurement
as the disc is rotated (see illustration). The
difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.
6If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45° apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15 mm in from the outer edge. If the
variation between the minimum and maximum
readings is greater than the specified amount,
the disc should be renewed.
7The hub face run-out can also be checked
in a similar way. First remove the disc as
described later in this Section, fix the
measuring equipment, then slowly rotate the
hub, and check that the run-out does not
exceed the amount given in the
Specifications. If the hub face run-out is
excessive, this should be corrected (by
renewing the hub bearings - see Chapter 10)
before rechecking the disc run-out.
4 Front brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
Braking system 9•5
9
4.5 Measuring the disc run-out with a dial
gauge
3.15 Tightening the carrier bracket
mounting bolts4.4A Using a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the front brake disc4.4B Disc minimum thickness marking
Position a thin piece of wood
between the piston and the
caliper body, to prevent
damage to the end face of the
piston, in the event of it being ejected
suddenly.
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Removal
8With the wheel and caliper removed,
remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 3.
9Mark the disc in relation to the hub, if it is to
be refitted.
10Remove the two special washers (where
fitted), and withdraw the disc over the wheel
studs (see illustrations).
Refitting
11Make sure that the disc and hub mating
surfaces are clean, then locate the disc on the
wheel studs. Align the previously-made marks
if the original disc is being refitted.
12Refit the two special washers, where
fitted.
13Refit the brake caliper and carrier bracket
with reference to Section 3.
14Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
15Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Note:To prevent uneven braking, BOTH rear
brake drums should be renewed at the same
time.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and engage 1st gear (or “P”).Loosen the relevant wheel nuts, jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the wheel.
2Remove the two special clips (where fitted),
and withdraw the brake drum over the wheel
studs. If the drum will not pass over the
shoes, it is possible to release the automatic
adjuster mechanism by prising out the small
rubber grommet near the centre of the
backplate, and inserting a screwdriver
through the small hole. The self-adjusting
ratchet can then be rotated, so that the brake
shoes move to their lowest setting (see
illustrations). Refit the rubber grommet
before proceeding.
3With the brake drum removed, clean the
dust from the drum, brake shoes, wheel
cylinder and backplate, using brake cleaner or
methylated spirit. Take care not to inhale the
dust, as it may contain asbestos.
Inspection
4Clean the inside surfaces of the brake
drum, then examine the internal friction
surface for signs of scoring or cracks. If it is
cracked, deeply scored, or has worn to a
diameter greater than the maximum given in
the Specifications, then it should be renewed,
together with the drum on the other side.
5Regrinding of the brake drum is not
recommended.
Refitting
6Locate the brake drum over the wheel
studs, and (where fitted) refit the special clips.Make sure that the drum contacts the hub
flange.
7Refit the wheel, then check the remaining
rear drum.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Depress the brake pedal several times, in
order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism
and set the shoes at their normal operating
position.
9Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Warning: Drum brake shoes must
be renewed on both rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the shoes on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Also, the dust
created by wear of the shoes may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts; use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1Remove the rear brake drums as described
in Section 5. Work on one brake assembly at a
time, using the assembled brake for reference
if necessary.
2Follow the accompanying illustrations for
the brake shoe renewal procedure (see
illustrations 6.2A to 6.2O). Be sure to stay in
order, and read the caption under each
illustration.
3If the wheel cylinder shows signs of fluid
leakage, or if there is any reason to suspect it
of being defective, inspect it now, as
described in the next Section.
4Fit the new brake shoes using a reversal of
the removal procedure, but set the eccentric
cam at its lowest position before assembling it
to the trailing shoe.
5Before refitting the brake drum, it should be
checked as described in Section 5.
6 Rear brake shoes - renewal
5 Rear brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting
9•6 Braking system
4.10A Remove the special washers . . .4.10B . . . and withdraw the disc
5.2A Releasing the automatic adjuster
mechanism with a screwdriver inserted
through the small hole in the backplate5.2B Removing a rear brake drum
6.2A Note the fitted position of the springs
and the adjuster strut, then clean the
components with brake cleaner, and allow
to dry. Position a tray beneath the
backplate, to catch the fluid and residue
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Braking system 9•7
9
6.2K Pull the handbrake cable spring back
from the operating lever on the rear of the
trailing shoe. Unhook the cable end from the
cut-out in the lever, and remove the shoe6.2L Unhook the automatic adjustment
strut from the trailing brake shoe . . .
6.2M . . . and remove the small spring
6.2B Remove the two shoe hold-down
springs, using a pair of pliers to depress
the upper ends so that they can be
withdrawn downwards off the pins6.2C Remove the hold-down pins from the
backplate6.2D Pull the bottom end of the leading
(front) brake shoe from the bottom anchor
(use pliers or an adjustable spanner over
the edge of the shoe to lever it away)
6.2E Release the trailing (rear) brake shoe
from the anchor, then move the bottom
ends of both shoes towards each other6.2F Unhook the lower return spring from
the shoes, noting the location holes6.2G Move the bottom ends of the brake
shoes together, and disconnect the top
ends of the shoes from the wheel cylinder,
taking care not to damage the rubber boots
6.2H Unhook the upper return spring from
the shoes . . .6.2I . . . and withdraw the leading shoe
from the backplate6.2J To prevent the wheel cylinder pistons
from being accidentally ejected, fit a
suitable elastic band or wire lengthwise
over the cylinder/pistons. Don’t press the
brake pedal while the shoes are removed
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6With the drum in position, refit the wheel,
then carry out the renewal procedure on the
remaining rear brake.
7Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts.
8Depress the brake pedal several times, in
order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism
and set the shoes at their normal operating
position.
9Make several forward and reverse stops,
and operate the handbrake fully two or three
times. Give the vehicle a road test, to make
sure that the brakes are functioning correctly,
and to bed-in the new linings to the contours
of the disc. Remember that the new linings
will not give full braking efficiency until they
have bedded-in.
Note:Before starting work, check on the
availability of parts (overhaul kit of seals). Also
bear in mind that if the brake shoes have been
contaminated by fluid leaking from the wheel
cylinder, they must be renewed. In principle,
the shoes on BOTH sides of the vehicle must
be renewed, even if they are only
contaminated on one side.
Removal
1Remove the brake drum as described in
Section 5.
2Minimise fluid loss either by removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap, and then
tightening it down onto a piece of polythene
to obtain an airtight seal, or by using a brake
hose clamp, a G-clamp, or similar tool, to
clamp the flexible hose at the nearest
convenient point to the wheel cylinder.
3Pull the brake shoes apart at their top ends,
so that they are just clear of the wheel
cylinder. The automatic adjuster will hold the
shoes in this position, so that the cylinder can
be withdrawn.
4Wipe away all traces of dirt around the
hydraulic union at the rear of the wheel
cylinder, then undo the union nut.5Unscrew the two bolts securing the wheel
cylinder to the backplate (see illustration).
6Withdraw the wheel cylinder from the
backplate so that it is clear of the brake
shoes. Plug the open hydraulic unions, to
prevent the entry of dirt, and to minimise
further fluid loss whilst the cylinder is
detached.
Overhaul
7Clean the external surfaces of the cylinder,
and unscrew the bleed screw.
8Carefully prise off the dust cover from each
end of the cylinder.
9Tap the wheel cylinder on a block of wood
to eject the pistons and seals, keeping them
identified for location. Finally remove the
spring.
10Clean the pistons and the cylinder by
washing in methylated spirit or fresh hydraulic
fluid. Do not use petrol, paraffin or any other
mineral-based fluid. Remove and discard the
old seals, noting which way round they are
fitted.
11Examine the surfaces of the pistons and
the cylinder bores, and look for any signs of
rust or scoring. If such damage is evident, the
complete wheel cylinder must be renewed.
12Reassemble by lubricating the first piston
in clean hydraulic fluid, then manipulating a
new seal into position, so that its raised lip
faces away from the brake shoe bearing face
of the piston.
13Insert the piston into the cylinder. As the
seal enters the bore, twist the piston back and
forth so that the seal lip is not trapped.
14Insert the spring, then refit the remaining
piston and seal, again making sure that the
seal lip is not trapped as it enters the bore.
15Fit new dust covers to the grooves in the
pistons and wheel cylinder body.
16Refit the bleed screw.
Refitting
17Wipe clean the backplate, and remove the
plug from the end of the hydraulic pipe. Fit the
cylinder onto the backplate, and screw in the
hydraulic union nut by hand, being careful not
to cross-thread it.18Tighten the mounting bolts, then fully
tighten the hydraulic union nut.
19Retract the automatic brake adjuster
mechanism, so that the brake shoes engage
with the pistons of the wheel cylinder. To do
this, prise the shoes apart slightly, turn the
automatic adjuster to its minimum position,
and release the shoes.
20Remove the clamp from the flexible brake
hose, or the polythene from the master
cylinder (as applicable).
21Refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 5.
22Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 15. Providing suitable
precautions were taken to minimise loss of
fluid, it should only be necessary to bleed the
relevant rear brake.
23Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on BOTH rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Although
genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the
dust created by wear of non-genuine pads
may contain asbestos, which is a health
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake pads or
disc.
1Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st
gear (or “P”). Loosen the rear wheel nuts, jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support it on
axle stands.
2Remove the rear wheels. Work on one
brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
3Inspect the rear brake disc as described in
Section 10.
4Extract the spring clip, and pull out the
retaining pin securing the caliper to the carrier
8 Rear brake pads - renewal
7 Rear wheel cylinder -
removal, overhaul and refitting
9•8 Braking system
6.2N Clean the backplate, and apply small
amounts of high-melting-point brake
grease to the brake shoe contact points.
Be careful not to get grease on any friction
surfaces6.2O Lubricate the sliding components of
the automatic adjuster with a little high-
melting-point brake grease, but leave the
serrations on the eccentric cam shown
here clean7.5 Bolts securing the wheel cylinder to
the backplate. Hydraulic union nut and
bleed screw cover are also visible
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bracket. Note that on Saloon and Hatchback
models, the pin is at the bottom of the caliper,
whereas on Estate models, it is at the top.
5Swivel the caliper away from the carrier
bracket, to expose the brake pads (see
illustrations).
6Disconnect the pad wear warning light wire
(when fitted) at the connector. Also unbolt the
brake hose bracket from the rear suspension
strut, to avoid straining the flexible hose.
7If necessary, the caliper may be completely
removed by prising off the cap and
unscrewing the pivot guide bolt. Support the
caliper on an axle stand, or tie it to one side
with wire.
8Remove the pads from the carrier bracket.
9Brush all dust and dirt from the caliper,
pads and disc, but do not inhale it, as it may
be harmful to health. Scrape any corrosion
from the disc.
10Before fitting the new pads, screw the
caliper piston fully into its bore, at the same
time pressing the piston fully to the bottom of
the bore. Proprietary tools are available for
this operation - at a pinch, it may be possible
to use long-nosed pliers engaged with the
cut-outs in the piston. Brake fluid will be
displaced into the master cylinder reservoir,
so check first that there is enough space to
accept the fluid. If necessary, syphon off
some of the fluid.
11Fit the new pads using a reversal of the
removal procedure. On completion, firmly
depress the brake pedal a few times, to bring
the pads to their normal working position.
Check the level of the brake fluid in the
reservoir, and top-up if necessary.
12Give the vehicle a road test, to make sure
that the brakes are functioning correctly, and
to bed-in the new linings to the contours of
the disc. Remember that full braking
efficiency will not be obtained until the new
linings have bedded-in.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st
gear (or “P”). Loosen the rear wheel nuts, jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support it on
axle stands. Remove the appropriate rear
wheel.
2Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible hose
leading to the rear brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations.
3Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible hose.
4Remove the rear brake pads, and free the
caliper as described in Section 8.
5Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
caliper. On Saloon and Hatchback models,
the handbrake lever faces away from the
caliper, whereas on Estate models, it faces
towards the caliper (see illustrations).6Support the caliper and disconnect the
hydraulic hose, making sure that the hose is
not twisted or strained unduly. Once the
caliper is detached, place it to one side, and
plug the open hydraulic unions to keep dust
and dirt out.
7If necessary, unbolt the carrier bracket from
the knuckle.
Overhaul
8No overhaul procedures were available at
the time of writing, so check availability of
spares before dismantling the caliper. In
principle, the overhaul information given for
the front brake caliper will apply, noting that it
will be necessary to unscrew the piston from
the handbrake mechanism (see Section 8,
paragraph 10) before being able to expel the
piston from the caliper. On reassembly, push
the piston fully into the caliper, and screw it
back onto the handbrake mechanism. Do not
attempt to dismantle the handbrake
mechanism; if the mechanism is faulty, the
complete caliper assembly must be renewed.
Refitting
9Refit the caliper, and where applicable the
carrier bracket, by reversing the removal
operations. Tighten the mounting bolts and
wheel nuts to the specified torque, and do not
forget to remove the brake hose clamp from
the flexible brake hose.
9 Rear brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Braking system 9•9
9
9.5A Rear brake caliper on
Saloon/Hatchback models (A) and Estate
models (B)
1 Caliper body
2 Frame
3 Brake pad spring clip
4 Handbrake cable lever facing away from
caliper
5 Handbrake cable lever facing towards
caliper
6 Bleed screw
7 Guide pin protective cap
8 Pad wear warning light connector
9 Flexible hydraulic hose connection
9.5B Handbrake operation on the rear
brake caliper
1 Piston
2 Automatic adjusting screw
3 Spring washers
4 Cam
5 Handbrake cable lever
8.5A Rear brake pad removal on Saloon
and Hatchback models
4 Brake caliper 5 Brake pads8.5B Rear brake pad removal on Estate
models
3 Brake caliper 5 Brake pads
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10Bleed the brake circuit according to the
procedure given in Section 15. Make sure
there are no leaks from the hose connections.
Test the brakes carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
Refer to Section 4 (front disc inspection).
Once the rear caliper is removed, the
procedure is the same.
Removal
1Disconnect the low fluid level warning light
multi-plug from the fluid reservoir filler cap
(see illustration).Unscrew and remove the
cap (note that the filler cap should not be
inverted). Draw off the hydraulic fluid from the
reservoir, using an old battery hydrometer or a
poultry baster. Do notsyphon the fluid by
mouth; it is poisonous. Any brake fluid spilt on
paintwork should be washed off with clean
water, without delay - brake fluid is also a
highly-effective paint-stripper!
2Identify the locations of each brake pipe on
the master cylinder. On non-ABS models,
there are four pipes; the two rear brake pipes
are attached to PCR (pressure-consciousrelief) valves on the master cylinder. On ABS
models, there are only two pipes, which lead
to the ABS hydraulic unit (see illustration).
3Place rags beneath the master cylinder to
catch spilt hydraulic fluid.
4Clean around the hydraulic union nuts.
Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the
hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.
5Unscrew the mounting nuts, and withdraw
the master cylinder from the studs on the front
of the servo unit. If the nuts are tight, a split
ring spanner should be used in preference to
an open-ended spanner. Plug or cap open
unions, to keep dust and dirt out.
6Recover the gasket from the master cylinder.
7If the master cylinder is faulty, it must be
renewed. At the time of writing, no overhaul
kits were available.
Refitting
8Clean the contact surfaces of the master
cylinder and servo.
9Locate a new gasket on the master cylinder.
10Position the master cylinder on the studs
on the servo unit. Refit and tighten the nuts to
the specified torque.
11Carefully insert the hydraulic lines in the
apertures in the master cylinder, then tightenthe union nuts. Make sure that the nuts enter
their threads correctly.
12Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
13Bleed the hydraulic system as described
in Section 15.
14Refit the reservoir filler cap, and reconnect
the multi-plug for the low fluid level warning
light.
15Test the brakes carefully before returning
the vehicle to normal service.
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, move the
driver’s seat fully to the rear, to allow
maximum working area.
2Remove the ashtray, then unscrew the
screws and remove the lower facia panel.
3Prise the hairpin clip from the right-hand
end of the pedal pivot shaft, and remove the
washer (see illustration).
4Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod. The nut is located
near the top of the pedal (see illustrations).
12 Brake pedal-
removal and refitting
11 Master cylinder -
removal and refitting
10 Rear brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
9•10 Braking system
11.1 Brake fluid reservoir and low level
warning light multi-plug
11.2 Master cylinder connections
A Non-ABS models
B ABS models
1 Brake fluid reservoir
2 Master cylinder3 PCR valves for rear brakes
4 Primary brake hydraulic circuit (front right/rear left)
5 Secondary brake hydraulic circuit (front left/rear right)
12.3 Removing the hairpin clip from the
right-hand end of the brake pedal pivot shaft12.4A Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the pushrod . . .12.4B . . . and remove the tube from the
pushrod
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5Press the pedal pivot shaft to the left,
through the mounting bracket, just far enough
to allow the pedal to be withdrawn. On
manual transmission models, leave the blue
nylon spacer (located between the clutch and
brake pedals) on the pivot shaft (see
illustration). On automatic transmission
models, the shaft can be removed completely
(see illustration).
6With the pedal removed, prise out the
bushes from each side. If necessary, also
remove the pushrod trunnion and the rubber
pad. Renew the components as necessary
(see illustrations).
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the pedal, apply a little
grease to the pivot shaft, pedal bushes and
trunnion.
8Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the pedal
bushes are correctly located, and that the
pedal shaft “D” section locates in the right-
hand side of the pedal bracket. Also make
sure that the hairpin clip is correctly
located.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the master cylinder and the
vacuum servo unit as described in Sec-
tions 11 and 16. If wished, the master cylinder
may be left attached to the servo unit.
3Working inside the passenger
compartment, fold down the covering from
the front of both front footwells.
4Have an assistant support the cross-link
assembly from inside the engine
compartment.
5Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts on
each side of the bulkhead, and remove the
link assembly from inside the engine
compartment. If necessary, have the assistanthold the bolt heads from inside the engine
compartment while the nuts are being
loosened.
6Clean the cross-link components, and
examine the bushes for wear. Renew the
bushes if necessary.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to Sections 11 and 16 when
refitting the master cylinder and vacuum servo
unit.
Inspection
1Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and support on axle stands.
2Check for signs of leakage at the pipe
unions, then examine the flexible hoses for
signs of cracking, chafing and fraying.
3The brake pipes should be examined
carefully for signs of dents, corrosion or other
damage. Corrosion should be scraped off,
and if the depth of pitting is significant, the
pipes renewed. This is particularly likely in
those areas underneath the vehicle body
where the pipes are exposed and
unprotected.
4Renew any defective brake pipes and/or
hoses.
Removal
5If a section of pipe or hose is to be
removed, loss of brake fluid can be reduced
by unscrewing the filler cap, and completely
sealing the top of the reservoir with cling film
or adhesive tape. Alternatively, the reservoir
can be emptied (see Section 11).
6To remove a section of pipe, hold the
adjoining hose union nut with a spanner to
prevent it from turning, then unscrew the
union nut at the end of the pipe, and release it.
14 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
inspection, removal and
refitting
13 Brake pedal-to-servo cross-
link (right-hand-drive models
only)- removal and refitting
Braking system 9•11
9
12.6A Prise out the bushes . . .12.6B . . . from each side of the pedal . . .12.6C . . . and remove the pushrod
trunnion
12.5A Leave the nylon spacer (arrowed) in
position on the pivot shaft (left-hand-drive
model shown, right-hand-drive similar)
12.5B Brake pedal components -
automatic transmission models
1 Pedal 3 Pivot shaft 5 Washer
2 Rubber pad 4 Bush 6 Hairpin clip
If any brake fluid is spilt onto
the bodywork, it must be
washed off without delay -
brake fluid is also a highly-
effective paint-stripper!
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Repeat the procedure at the other end of the
pipe, then release the pipe by pulling out the
clips attaching it to the body (see
illustrations). Where the union nuts are
exposed to the full force of the weather, they
can sometimes be quite tight. If an open-
ended spanner is used, burring of the flats on
the nuts is not uncommon, and for this
reason, it is preferable to use a split ring
(brake) spanner, which will engage all the
flats. If such a spanner is not available, self-
locking grips may be used as a last resort;
these may well damage the nuts, but if the
pipe is to be renewed, this does not matter.
7To further minimise the loss of fluid when
disconnecting a flexible brake line from a rigid
pipe, clamp the hose as near as possible to
the pipe to be detached, using a brake hose
clamp or a pair of self-locking grips with
protected jaws.
8To remove a flexible hose, first clean the
ends of the hose and the surrounding area,
then unscrew the union nuts from the hose
ends. Recover the spring clip, and withdraw
the hose from the serrated mounting in the
support bracket. Where applicable, unscrew
the hose from the caliper.
9Brake pipes supplied with flared ends and
union nuts can be obtained individually or in
sets from Ford dealers or accessory shops.
The pipe is then bent to shape, using the old
pipe as a guide, and is ready for fitting. Be
careful not to kink or crimp the pipe when
bending it; ideally, a proper pipe-bending tool
should be used.
Refitting
10Refitting of the pipes and hoses is a
reversal of removal. Make sure that all brake
pipes are securely supported in their clips,
and ensure that the hoses are not kinked.
Check also that the hoses are clear of all
suspension components and underbody
fittings, and will remain clear during
movement of the suspension and steering.
11On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic
system as described in Section 15.
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. Take care to keep it
off bare skin, and in particular
not to get splashes in your eyes.
The fluid also attacks paintwork - wash off
spillages immediately with cold water.
1If the master cylinder has been
disconnected and reconnected, then the
complete system (both circuits) must be bled
of air. If a component of one circuit has been
disturbed, then only that particular circuit
need be bled.
2Bleeding should commence on one front
brake, followed by the diagonally-opposite
rear brake. The remaining front brake should
then be bled, followed by its diagonally-
opposite rear brake.
3There are a variety of do-it-yourself “one-
man” brake bleeding kits available from motor
accessory shops, and it is recommended that
one of these kits be used wherever possible,
as they greatly simplify the brake bleeding
operation. Follow the kit manufacturer’s
instructions in conjunction with the following
procedure. If a pressure-bleeding kit is
obtained, then it will not be necessary to
depress the brake pedal in the following
procedure.
4During the bleeding operation, do not allow
the brake fluid level in the reservoir to drop
below the minimum mark. If the level is
allowed to fall so far that air is drawn in, the
whole procedure will have to be started again
from scratch. Only use new fluid for topping-
up, preferably from a freshly-opened
container. Never re-use fluid bled from the
system.
5Before starting, check that all rigid pipes
and flexible hoses are in good condition, and
that all hydraulic unions are tight. Take great
care not to allow hydraulic fluid to come into
contact with the vehicle paintwork, otherwise
the finish will be seriously damaged. Wash off
any spilt fluid immediately with cold water.
6If a brake bleeding kit is not being used,
gather together a clean jar, a length of plastic
or rubber tubing which is a tight fit over the
bleed screw, and a new can of the specified
brake fluid (see Chapter 1 Specifications). The
help of an assistant will also be required.
7Clean the area around the bleed screw on
the front brake unit to be bled (it is importantthat no dirt be allowed to enter the hydraulic
system), and remove the dust cap. Connect
one end of the tubing to the bleed screw, and
immerse the other end in the jar, which should
be filled with sufficient brake fluid to keep the
end of the tube submerged.
8Open the bleed screw by one or two turns,
and have the assistant depress the brake
pedal to the floor. Tighten the bleed screw at
the end of the downstroke, then have the
assistant release the pedal. Continue this
procedure until clean brake fluid, free from air
bubbles, can be seen flowing into the jar.
Finally tighten the bleed screw with the pedal
in the fully-depressed position.
9Remove the tube, and refit the dust cap.
Top-up the master cylinder reservoir if
necessary, then repeat the procedure on the
diagonally-opposite rear brake.
10Repeat the procedure on the remaining
circuit, starting with the front brake, and
followed by the diagonally-opposite rear
brake.
11Check the feel of the brake pedal - it
should be firm. If it is spongy, there is still
some air in the system, and the bleeding
procedure should be repeated.
12When bleeding is complete, top-up the
master cylinder reservoir and refit the cap.
Testing
1To test the operation of the servo unit,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
dissipate the vacuum, then start the engine
while keeping the footbrake depressed. As
the engine starts, there should be a noticeable
“give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds
up. Allow the engine to run for at least two
minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake
pedal is now depressed again, it should be
possible to hear a hiss from the servo when
the pedal is depressed. After four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel harder.
2Before assuming that a problem exists in
the servo unit itself, inspect the non-return
valve as described in the next Section.
Removal
3Refer to Section 11 and remove the master
cylinder.
4Disconnect the vacuum hose adaptor at the
servo unit by pulling it free from the rubber
grommet. If it is reluctant to move, prise it
free, using a screwdriver with its blade
inserted under the flange.
5Unscrew the four nuts securing the servo
unit to the mounting brackets on the bulkhead
in the engine compartment.
6On right-hand drive models, withdraw the
servo unit so that its studs are just clear of the
brackets. Have an assistant hold the brake
pedal depressed, then extract the spring clip
16 Vacuum servo unit -
testing, removal and refitting
15 Hydraulic system - bleeding
9•12 Braking system
14.6A Unscrewing a brake pipe union nut
using a split ring spanner
14.6B Pulling out a brake pipe mounting
clip
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