gas FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

Page 60 of 413


02-02-41
Brake System

02-02-41

bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the

master cylinder.

8. Install the bleed screw (if so

equipped). Install the gasket (dia-

phragm) in the master cylinder filler

cover. Position the gasket as shown in

Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket

is securely seated.

9. Install the cover and gasket on

the master cylinder and secure the

cover into position with the retainer.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the vehicle as outlined in Section

2.

2.
Remove the caliper locating pins

from the caliper assembly and lift the

anchor plate from the caliper.

3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-

ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.

43).

4.
Remove the two retaining pins,

then remove the outer brake shoe

from the caliper.

5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-

ward until it is free of the hold-down

springs, then remove the brake shoe.

6. Apply air pressure to the fluid

port in the caliper with a rubber

tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as

shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.

Place a cloth over the piston before

applying air pressure to prevent dam-

age to the piston. If the piston is

seized and cannot be forced from the

FIBER

BLOCK

CALIPER

PISTON

H 1574-B

FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From

Caliper —
All
Models Except

Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston

while applying air pressure. Care

should be taken because the piston

can develop considerable force due to

pressure build-up.

7.
Remove the dust boot from the

caliper assembly.

8. Remove the rubber piston seal

from the cylinder and discard it.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use

clean, dry, compressed air to clean out

and dry the grooves and passage ways.

Be sure that the caliper bore and com-

ponent parts are completely free of

any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bore and piston

for damage or excessive wear. Replace

the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the

chrome plating is worn off.

Assembly

1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid

to the new caliper piston seal and in-

stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure

the seal does not become twisted and

that it is seated fully in the groove.

2.
Install a new dust boot by setting

the flange squarely in the outer groove

of the caliper bore.

3.
Coat the piston with the speci-

fied fluid and install the piston in the

cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot

over the piston as it is installed. Seat

the dust boot in the piston groove.

4.
Position the inner brake shoe so

that the ears of the shoe rests on the

top of the anchor plate bosses and be-

neath the hold-down springs.

5.
Install new caliper locating pin

insulators in the anchor plate.

6. Position the caliper on the an-

chor plate.

7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol

to the caliper locating pins and install

them loosely in the anchor plate. Be

sure the guide pins are free of oil,

grease or dirt.

8. Install the caliper on the spindle

as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper

Assembly.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

Do not remove the bridge bolts that

hold the two halves of the caliper to-

gether. The two caliper housings are

shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-

tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the car as outlined in Section 2.

2.
Remove the two attaching bolts

and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).

3.
Remove the two shoe and lining

assemblies.

4.
Remove the flexible brake hose

from the caliper.

5.
Remove the external transfer

tube.

6. Remove the four dust boots from

the caliper housings and piston

grooves.

7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flanges on

the inboard housing (Fig. 45).

8. Remove the four pistons from

the cylinder bores with the special tool

shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking

with consequent damage to the piston

or bore, rotate the piston with the tool

while pulling it outward at the same

time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or

damaging the outside diameter surface

or dust boot retaining groove of the

piston. Such damage causes poor seal-

ing.

If a piston is so completely seized in

the cylinder bore that it can not be re-

moved with the special tool, the cali-

per housing must be replaced, by posi-

tioning two screwdrivers in the piston

dust boot retaining groove and prying

outward. To prevent cocking, tap the

end of the piston lightly around the

circumference with a hammer, while

the prying force is being applied. Be

careful to avoid damaging the dust

boot retainer in the caliper housing

(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is

used, the pistons must be replaced.

If the caliper dust boot retainer or

retaining groove is damaged or

scratched, pry the retainer out of the

caliper housing with screwdrivers.

Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A

H 1652-A

FIG. 45—Removing or Installing

Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

Page 75 of 413


03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

Page 86 of 413


03-02-10
Suspension

03-02-10

lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring

tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a

jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is

to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the

car, distribute
the
load along
the

bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4

inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-

vent damaging
the
bumper.

2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the

arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-

pletely through each rivet. Then drill

off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot

hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive

out both rivets.

3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand

under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the

vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the

coil spring tension.

4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.

5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,

and position
the
tool.
The
tool should

seat firmly against
the end of
both

studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud

nut.

6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball

joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint

to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-

taching
nut
finger-tight.

9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower

arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and

nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to

the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.

10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut

to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-

ter
pin.

11.
Remove
the
jack.

12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever

any part
of the
front suspension
has

been removed
and
installed, front

wheel alignment must
be
checked.

BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the

lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint

is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-

placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts

supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM

T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A

FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint

Stud

Lower
Arm

1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-

port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the

lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from

the
hub.

3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that

attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-

move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and

wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent

damage
to the
brake hose.

4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and

gasket from
the
spindle.

6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13.
The
tool should seat firmly against

the ends
of
both studs,
and not

against
the
lower stud
nut.

8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring

pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand

under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-

caution.

10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball

joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and

spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball

stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised

position.

11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet

heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-

ing portion
of the
rivets from
the

holes,
and
remove
the
joint.

12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the

nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the

joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-

ified lubricant.

13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while

guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.

Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to

specification. Continue
to
tighten
the

nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-

stall
the
cotter
pin.

14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on

the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching

bolts
to
specifications.

15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the

spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.

16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle

and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to

specifications. Check
for the
correct

flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).

17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-

que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and

lower
the
vehicle.

Upper
Arm

1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end

of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.

Place
a
support stand under
the
side

rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.

3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13).
The
tool should seat firmly

against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and

not against
the
upper stud
nut.

5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the

ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the

upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-

body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake

hose.

7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining

nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.

8. Install
the new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com

Page 96 of 413


03-02-20
Suspension

03-02-20

hub and rotor on the spindle. Position

the caliper over the rotor and install

the attaching bolts. Torque the bolts

to specification (Part 3-13). Install the

wheel and tire on the hub and adjust

the wheel bearings as outlined in Part

3-12 .

7.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover. Then, remove the support stand

and lower the vehicle.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

(Part 3-1) and adjust as necessary.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Drum Brakes

Removal

1.
Position a support between the

upper arm and frame as shown in

Figs.
8 and 9; then, raise the vehicle

and position safety stands.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub;
then, remove the adjusting nut,

washer, and outer bearing cone and

roller assembly.

4.
Pull the wheel, hub, and drum

assembly off the wheel spindle.

5.
Remove the brake backing plate

from the spindle. Support the plate to

prevent damage to the brake hose.

6. Disconnect the spindle connect-

ing rod end from the spindle arm

using Tool 3290-C.

7.
Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen

the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-

move the nuts from the studs at this

time.

8. Position the ball joint remover

tool between the upper and lower ball

joint studs (Fig. 10). The tool should

seat firmly against the ends of both

studs and not against the stud nuts.

9. Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension, and, with a hammer,

hit the spindle smartly near the studs

to break them loose in the spindle. Do

not loosen the studs in the spindle

with tool pressure alone.

10.
Remove the stud nuts and re-

move the spindle from both studs.

Installation

1.
Position the spindle on the lower

ball joint stud and install the stud nut

(Fig. 25).
2.
Raise the lower suspension arm

and guide the upper ball joint stud

into the spindle. Install the stud nut.

3.
Torque the upper stud nut and

then the lower stud nut to specifica-

tion. Continue to tighten both nuts

until the cotter pin holes and slots line

up.
Install new cotter pins.

4.
Connect the spindle connecting

rod end to the spindle arm.

5.
Install the brake backing plate

on the spindle, and torque the bolts to

specification.

6. Install the wntel and drum and

adjust the wheel bearing (Part 3-12).

7.
Remove the safety stands, and

lower the vehicle.

8. Remove the support from be-

tween the upper arm and frame.

9. Check and, if necessary, adjust

caster, camber, and toe-in.

Disc Brakes

Removal

1.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover, and remove the wheel and tire

from the hub.

2.
Remove two bolts attaching the

caliper to the spindle. Remove the cal-

iper from the rotor and wire it to the

underbody to prevent damage to the

brake hose.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub,
then, remove the adjusting nut,

washer, and outer bearing cone and

roller assembly.

4.
Pull the hub and rotor assembly

off the wheel spindle.

5.
Remove the three caliper shield

attaching bolts and remove the shield.

6. Disconnect the spindle connect-

ing rod end from the spindle arm

using Tool-3290-C.

7.
Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen

the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-

move the nuts from the studs at this

time.

8. Position the ball joint remover

tool between the upper and lower ball

joint studs (Fig. 10). The tool should

seat firmly against the ends of both

studs and not against the stud nuts.

9. Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension, and, with a hammer,

hit the spindle smartly near the studs

to break them loose in the spindle. Do

not loosen the studs in the spindle

with tool pressure alone.

10.
Position a floor jack under the

lower suspension arm.
11.
Remove the upper and lower

ball joint stud nuts; lower the jack

and remove the spindle.

Installation

1.
Position the spindle on the lower

ball joint stud and install the stud nut

(Fig. 25). Torque the nut to specifica-

tion and install the cotter pin.

2.
Raise the lower suspension arm,

and guide the upper ball joint stud

into the spindle. Install the stud nut.

3.
Torque the nut to specifications

and install the cotter pin. Then, re-

move the floor jack.

4.
Connect the spindle connecting

rod end to the spindle arm and install

the attaching nut. Torque the nut to

specification and install the cotter pin.

5.
Position the caliper splash shield

to the spindle and install the attaching

bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts and

bolts to specification.

6. Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle.

7.
Position the caliper to the rotor

and spindle and install the attaching

bolts.
Torque the bolts to specification

and install the safety wire.

8. Install the wheel and tire on the

hub and adjust the wheel bearing

(Part 3-12).

9. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

10.
Before driving the vehicle,

pump the brake pedal several times to

obtain normal brake lining-to-rotor

clearance and restore normal brake

pedal travel.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle. Place a sup-

port under each side rail to the rear of

the lower arm in the lifting pad area.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire from

the hub.

3.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-

move the caliper from the rotor and

wire it to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

4.
Remove the hub and rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove the splash shield and

gasket from the spindle.

6. Disconnect the spindle arm con-

necting rod from the spindle arm with

Tool 3290-C. See Fig. 23.

7.
Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts. Loosen the

nuts one to two turns.procarmanuals.com

Page 97 of 413


03-02-21
Suspension

03-02-21

8. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the stud nuts.

9. Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the studs

to loosen them from the spindle. Do

not loosen
the
studs with tool pressure

alone.

10.
Place a jack under the outer

end of the lower arm, and raise the

arm several inches. Remove both ball

stud nuts, and remove t^e spindle.

Installation

1.
Position the new spindle onto the

upper and lower ball joint studs, in-

stall the stud nuts and tighten the nuts

to specifications. Continue to tighten

both nuts until the cotter pin holes

line up with the slots, then install new

cotter pines.

2.
Connect the spindle connecting

rod to the spindle arm. Install the re-

taining nut and tighten the nut to

specification. Continue to tighten the

nut until the cotter pin hole lines up

with the slot, then install a new cotter

pin.

3.
Install the gasket and splash

shield on the spindle. Tighten the at-

taching bolts to specifications.

4.
Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle.

5.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications. Check for the correct flex-

ible hose routing (Part 2-2).

6. Install the wheel and tire and ad-

just the wheel bearings (Part 3-12).

7.
Lubricate the steering stop on

the lower arm and the mating flat on

the spindle with the specified lubri-

cant.

8. Remove the safety stands, lower

the car and check camber, caster and

toe-in.

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the nut, washer, and

bushing from the shock absorber

upper end.

2.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and

install safety stands.
3.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the

shock absorber to the lower arm and

remove the shock absorber.

4.
Place a washer and bushing on

the shock absorber top stud and posi-

tion the shock absorber inside the

front spring. Install the 2 lower at-

taching bolts and torque them to spe-

cifications.

5.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the vehicle.

6. Place a bushing and washer on

the shock absorber top stud and in-

stall the attaching nut. Torque it to

specification.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1. Raise the hood and remove 3

shock absorber upper mounting

bracket-to-spring tower attaching

nuts.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

place safety stands under the lower

arms.

3.
Remove 2 shock absorber lower

attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Lift the shock absorber and

upper bracket from the spring tower

(Fig. 26) and remove the bracket from

the shock absorber.

Installation

1. Install the upper mounting

bracket on the shock absorber and

torque to specification.

2.
Position the shock absorber and

upper mounting bracket in the spring

tower, making sure the shock absor-

ber lower studs are in the pivot plate

holes.

3.
Install the 2 washers and attach-

ing nuts on the shock absorber lower

studs and torque to specification.

4.
Install the 3 shock absorber

upper mounting bracket-to-spring

tower attaching nuts and torque to

specification. Then, remove the safety

stands and lower the vehicle.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Remove the stud nut at the

upper eye of the shock absorber. Re-

move the upper eye stud bracket to

crossmember attaching bolt and re-

move the stud bracket. Refer to Fig.

22.
2.
Remove the bolts which attach

the shock absorber to the suspension

lower arm. Lower, and remove the

shock absorber.

3.
Examine the shock absorber unit

and rubber bushings. Replace parts

that are defective, deteriorated, or

worn.

Installation

1. Fully extend the shock absorber

and position it inside the coil spring.

Connect the lower end of the shock

absorber to the suspension lower arm.

Torque the attaching nuts to specifica-

tion.

2.
Insert the upper bracket stud

through the bushing in the shock ab-

sorber upper eye. Install the stud

bracket to crossmember attaching

bolt. Do not tighten the bolt: at this

time.

3.
Install the upper eye bracket

stud nut. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.

4.
Torque the stud bracket- to-

crossmember attaching bolt to specifi-

cation.
The
shock absorber upper
eye

stud
nut
must
be
tightened
to com-

press
the
rubber bushing before
the

stud bracket
is
bolted
to the

crossmember;
otherwise,
the
upper
at-

tachment could
be
loose
and
noisy.

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK 1(11

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the shock absorber at-

taching nut, washer and insulator

from the upper stud at the upper side

of the spring upper seat. Compress the

shock absorber to clear the hole in the

spring seat, and remove the inner in-

sulator and washer from the upper at-

taching stud.

3.
Remove the self-locking attach-

ing nut, and disconnect the shock ab-

sorber lower stud from the mounting

bracket on the rear axle housing (Fig.

4).

4.
Expel all air by performing step

3 On Vehicle Tests in Part 3-1.

5.
Place the inner washer and insu-

lator on the upper attaching stud, and

position the shock absorber so that

the upper attaching stud enters the

hole in the spring upper seat. While

holding the shock absorber in this po-

sition, install the outer insulator andprocarmanuals.com

Page 108 of 413


03-03-03
Automatic Air Leveling System

03-03-03

COMPRESSOR LINE
AIR
CYLINDER LINE INTAKE PORT EXHAUSTPORT
ADJUSTMENT SCREW

MOUNTING BRACKET
HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE
REAR SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM

FIG. 3—Height Control Valve Installation

Al R CYLINDER
F 1365-A

FIG. 4—Air Cylinder Installation

3 MAJOR REPAIRS

AIR COMPRESSOR

Compressor repair should
be
limit-

ed
to the
cleaning
of the
micro-bon

filter.

REMOVAL

1.
Remove
the
three cover filter
at-

taching screws.
2.
Remove
the
filter
and
cover

gasket.

3.
Wash
the
filter
in
solvent, blow

it
dry
with compressed
air
working

from
the
inside outward.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position
a new
gasket
and the

cover
on the
compressor.
2.
Install
the
three attaching

screws.

HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE

Other than adjusting
the
trim

height,
no
repairs should
be
made
to

the height control valve.

1.
Thoroughly clean exterior
of the

height control valve.procarmanuals.com

Page 137 of 413


03-06-03
Manual Steering

03-06-03

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

STEERING GEAR

DISASSEMBLY

1. Rotate the steering shaft 3 turns

from either stop.

2.
After removing the sector adjust-

ing screw locknut and the housing

cover bolts (Fig. 6), remove the sector

shaft with the cover. Remove the

cover from the shaft by turning the

screw clockwise. Keep the shim with

the screw.

HOUSING

3548
6. Turn the ball nut over, and ro-

tate the worm shaft from side to side

until all 50 balls have dropped out of

the nut into a clean pan. With the

balls removed, the ball nut will slide

off the worm.

7. Remove the upper bearing cup

from the bearing adjuster and the

lower cup from the housing. It may be

necessary to tap the housing or the

adjuster on a block of wood to jar the

bearing cups loose.

8. If the preliminary inspection

GASKET
• 3581

SHIM-3A657 COVER
AND

BUSHING

3583

SECTOR SHAFT

ADJUSTING SCREW
.
3577

•BEARING-3576

SEAL
- 3591

G 1623-A

FIG. 6—Sector Shaft
and
Housing Disassembled

-^-HOUSING-3548

BEARING
CUP •
3552

BALL
NUT

BEARING-3571

FILLER PLUG-3556
LOCK NUT-3707

3524 BEARING
CUP \
SEAL-3738

•GUIDE -3523

• BEARINGS

3647

.CLAMP-3544
BEARING
• 3571

G 1624-A

FIG. 7—Steering Shaft
and
Related Parts Disassembled

3.
Loosen the worm bearing adjust-

er nut, and remove the adjuster as-

sembly and the steering shaft upper

bearing (Fig. 7).

4.
Carefully pull the steering shaft

and ball nut from the housing, and i •-

move the steering shaft lower bearr g.

To avoid possible damage to the ball

return guides, keep
the
ball
nut
from

running down
to
either
end of the

worm.

Disassemble
the
ball only
if
there
is

indication
of
binding
or
tightness.

5.
Remove the ball return guide

clamp and the ball return guides from

the ball
nut.
Keep
the
ball
nut
clamp-

side up until ready to remove the

balls.
shows damage, press the sector shaft

bearing and the oil seal from the

housing (Fig. 8).

ASSEMBLY

1. If the sector shaft bearing and

oil seal have been removed, press a

new bearing into the housing and in-

stall a new oil seal. Do not clean,

wash or soak seals in cleaning solvent

(Fig.
7).
Apply
the
recommended

steering gear lubricant
to the
bearing

and seals.

2.
Install a bearing cup in the lower

end of the housing and in the adjuster.

3.
If the seal in the bearing adjuster

was removed, install a new seal.
Tool
-
T62F

3576
- A

G 1622-A

FIG.
8—Removing
Oil
Seal

and Bearing

4.
Insert the ball guides into the

holes of the ball nut, tapping them

lightly with a wood handle of a screw

driver if necessary to seat them.

5.
Insert 25 balls into the hole in

the top of each ball guide. It may be

necessary to rotate the shafi: slightly

one way, then in the opposite direc-

tion to distribute the balls in the cir-

cuit.

6. After the 50 balls are installed,

install the ball guide clamp. Torque

the screws to specification. Check the

worm shaft to make sure that it ro-

tates freely.

7. Coat the threads of the steering

shaft bearing adjuster, the housing

cover bolts, and the sector adjusting

screw with a suitable oil-resisi:ant seal-

ing compound. Do not apply sealer to

female threads and especially avoid

getting any sealer on the steering shaft

bearings.

8.
Coat the worm bearings, sector

shaft bearings, and gear teeth with

steering gear lubricant.

9. Clamp the housing in a vise, with

the sector shaft axis horizontal, and

position the steering shaft lower bear-

ing in its cup.

10.
Position the steering shaft and

ball nut assemblies in the housing.

11.
Position the steering shaft

upper bearing on the top of the worm,

and install the steering shaft bearingprocarmanuals.com

Page 138 of 413


03-06-04
Manual Steering

03-06-04

adjuster and the adjuster nut and

bearing cup. Leave the nut loose.

12.
Adjust the worm bearing pre-

load, using an in-lb torque wrench

(Fig. 9). See Part 3-13 for the speci-

fied preload.

13.
Position the sector adjusting

screw and adjuster shim, and check

the end clearance which should not

exceed 0.002 inch between the screw

head and the end of the sector shaft.

If clearance is greater than 0.002 inch,

add enough shims to reduce the end

play to within the 0.002 inch toler-

ance.

14.
Start the sector shaft adjusting

screw into the housing cover.

15.
Install a new gasket on the

housing cover.

16.
Rotate the steering shaft until

the ball nut teeth are in position to

mesh with the sector gear, tilting the
In - /b Torque Wrench

ADJUSTER NUT

21-A

FIG. 9—Checking Steering Shaft

Bearing Preload
housing so that the ball will tip

toward the housing cover opening.

17.
Lubricate the sector shaft jour-

nal and install the sector shaft and

cover.

18.
With the housing cover turned

out of the way fill the gear with 0.97

lbs of gear lubricant. Push the

housing cover and sector shaft assem-

blies into place, and install the two

top housing cover bolts. Do not tight-

en the cover bolts until it is certain

that there is some lash between ball

nut and sector gear teeth. Hold or

push the cover away from the ball nut,

then torque the bolts to specification.

19.
After loosely installing the sec-

tor shaft adjusting screw lock nut, ad-

just the sector shaft mesh load. See

Part 3-13 for the specified mesh load;

then, tighten the adjusting screw lock

nut.procarmanuals.com

Page 163 of 413


03-10-02

Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-02

LOWER PRESSURE

PLATE 3D590

SPRING-3D601

UPPER PRESSURE

PLATE -3A645

RETAINER END

PLATE-3D589

CAM AND ROTOR

ASSEMBLY-
-3D607

SCREW AND WASHER

ASSEMBLY-379376-S
PULLEY-3D673

PUMP SHAFT

SEAL 3B592

PLATE AND BUSHING

ASSEMBLY-3D643

0-RING

382744-S

HOUSING GASKET

3A760

G1343-B

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Disassembled

To adjust the belt on 8 cyl. engines

loosen the mounting bolt in the ad-

justing slot and the nut directly above

the adjusting slot. Place a suitable pry

bar between the cast boss on the

pump mounting bracket and the cast

boss on the pump cover plate and pry

upward to correct tension.

Do not pry against the reservoir to

obtain proper belt load as it can be

deformed and cause a leak.

3.
Recheck the belt tension. When

the tension has been correctly adjusted,
tighten the bolts and the fiut to speci-

fication (Part 3-13).

POWER STEERING

PUMP DRIVE BELT

REPLACEMENT

1.
Loosen the idler pulley attaching

bolts and remove the compressor drive

belt if equipped with an air condition-

er.

2.
Loosen 3 bolts and one nut at-
taching the power steering pump to

the pump bracket, and remove the

pump drive belt.

3.
Position the power steering

pump drive belt on the pulleys.

4.
Adjust the drive belt tension as

outlined in Section 2 to specification

(Part 3-13) and tighten the pump at-

taching bolts and one nut to specifica-

tion.

5.
Install the compressor drive belt

if equipped with an air conditioner

and adjust to specification (Part 16).

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

POWER STEERING

PUMP REPLACEMENT

EIGHT CYLINDER

WITHOUT AIR

CONDITIONER AND

ALL SIX CYLINDER

1.
Remove the power steering fluid

from the pump reservoir by discon-

necting the fluid return hose at the

reservoir, and allow the fluid to drain

into a suitable container.

2.
Disconnect the pressure hose
from the pump.

3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of

the pump and the one nut at the rear

(rear nut on 8 cyl. engines only) that

attach the pump to the mounting

bracket; disconnect the belt from the

pulley and remove the pump from the

vehicle.

4.
Position the pump to the mount-

ing bracket and install the 3 bolts at

the front of pump and (rear nut on 8

cyl.
engines only) the 1 nut at the

rear. Torque to specification.

5.
Place the belt on the pulley and

adjust the belt tension (Section 2) with
Tool T63L-8620-A and tighten the

bolts and nut to specifications.

6. Torque the pressure hose fitting

hex nut to specification. Then, connect

the pressure hose to the fitting and

torque the hose nut to specification.

7.
Connect the hose to the pump.

Then, tighten the clamp.

8. Fill the power steering pump res-

ervoir with transmission fluid C1AZ-

19582-A and cycle the system to re-

move air from the steering gear sys-

tem.

9. Check for leaks and again check

the fluid level. Add fluid as necessary.procarmanuals.com

Page 164 of 413


03-10-03
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-03

EIGHT CYLINDER WITH

AIR CONDITIONER

1.
Remove the power steering fluid

from the pump reservoir by discon-

necting the fluid return hose from the

reservoir and allow the fluid to drain

in a suitable container.

2.
Disconnect the pressure hose

from the pump.

3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of

the pump and the one nut at the rear

that attach the pump to the mounting

bracket and remove the drive belt

from the pump pulley.

4.
Loosen the upper pump bracket-

to-engine attaching bolt and remove

the bolt in the belt adjusting slot. Re-

move the pump.

5.
Position the pump to the bracket

and install the bracket-to-pump at-

taching bolts and nuts. Tighten to spe-

cifications.

6. Place the belt on the pump pul-

ley. Adjust the belt tension as outlined

in Section 2 and tighten the bolts and

nut to specification.

7.
Torque the pressure hose fitting

hex nut to specification. Then, connect

the pressure hose to the fitting and

torque the hose nut to specification.

8. Connect the return hose to the

power steering pump and tighten the

clamp.

9. Fill the pump with automatic

transmission fluid C1AZ-19582-A.

Bleed the air from the system (Part

3-1) and check for leaks and again
check the fluid level. Add fluid as re-

quired.

POWER STEERING PUMP

PULLEY REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL

1.
Drain as much of the fluid as

possible from the pump through filler

pipe.

2.
Install a 3/8-16 inch capscrew in

the end of the pump shaft to prevent

damage to the shaft end by the tool

screw.

3.
Install the pulley remover, Tool

T63L-1O3OO-B, on pulley hub, and

place the tool and pump in a vise as

shown in Fig. 3.

4.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut counterclockwise to remove

the pulley (Fig. 3). The pulley must be

removed without in and out pressure

on the pump shaft to prevent damage

to internal thrust areas.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position the pulley to the pump

shaft and install Tool T65P-3A733-A

as shown in Fig. 4.

2.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut clockwise to install the pulley

on the shaft. The pulley face will be

flush with end of pump shaft. Install

the pulley without in and out pressure
on the shaft to prevent damage to in-

ternal thrust areas.

3.
Remove the tool.

POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

Reservoir replacement must be done

on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of

work area and tools is extremely im-

portant when repairing any hydraulic

unit. Thoroughly clean the exterior of

the pump with a suitable cleaning sol-

vent. Do not clean, wash or soak the

shaft oil seal in solvent. Plug the inlet

and outlet openings with plugs or

masking tape before cleaning the

pump exterior or removing the reser-

voir.

REMOVAL

1.
Assemble the adapter plate (Tool

T69P-3A674-A) to the bench mounted

fixture tool (T57L-5OO-A). Position

the pump and pulley on the adapter

plate, pulley facing down.

2.
Remove the outlet fitting hex nut

and the service identification tag.

3.
Invert the pump so the pulley is

facing up and remove the reservoir by

tapping around the flange with a wood

block (Fig. 5).

4.
Remove the reservoir O-ring seal

and the outlet fitting gasket from the

pump.

INSTALLATION

Tool • T 63 L-

10300 -

G 1477 A

FIG. 3—Removing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1478 A

FIG. 4—Installing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1.
Install a new gasket on the outlet

fitting and a new reservoir O-ring seal

on the pump housing plate (Fig. 6).

The old gasket and seal should never

be re-used.

Too/
T57L 500-A

G1602-A

FIG. 5—Removing Pump

Reservoirprocarmanuals.com

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