engine oil FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-02-07
Brake System

02-02-07

ANTI-SKID CONTROL SYSTEM

RELEASE PAWL CAM PIN

RELEASE PAWL CAM LEVER

RELEASE CABLE

H
1636-
A

FIG. 10—Parking Brake Control Assembly

With Manual Release—Typical

power unit with mounting bracket is

riveted to the control assembly. The

vacuum actuated piston within the

unit is connected by a rod to the

upper end of the release lever (Fig. 9).

The lower end of the release lever ex-

tends out for alternate manual release
in the event of vacuum power failure

or for optional manual release at any

time.

Hoses connect the power unit and

the engine manifold to a vacuum re-

lease valve in the transmission neutral

safety switch.
The anti-skid control system con-

sists of three major components (Fig.

39).
Mechanically driven electromag-

netic sensors at each rear wheel; an

electronic control module mounted

under the glove box; a vacuum pow-

ered actuator attached to a bracket on

the inside of the right front frame rail

under the toe board.

The sensors consist of steel rings

having teeth on their outer diameters,

pressed on each axle shaft just out-

board of the wheel bearing. The teeth

rotate past corresponding teeth on the

inside diameter of stationary steel

rings mounted in the bearing retain-

ers.
Also mounted in the retainers, are

ring-shaped permanent magnets and

coils of wire. Two wires from each

sensor connect the sensors to the con-

trol module.

The control module consists of solid

state electronic components sealed in

a container. It is connected to the sen-

sors and to a solenoid on the actuator.

The actuator is similar to a vacuum

brake booster and consists of three

parts.
A chamber divided by a vacuum

suspended diaphragm; a hydraulic cyl-

inder connected to the diaphragm; and

a solenoid connected electrically to the

control module.

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

After any brake service work, ob-

tain a firm brake pedal before moving

the vehicle. Riding the brake pedal

(common on left foot application)

should be avoided when driving the

vehicle.

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS—

DRUM BRAKES

The hydraulic drum brakes are

self-adjusting and require a manual

adjustment only after the brake shoes

have been relined, replaced, or when

the length of the adjusting screw has

been changed while performing some

other service operation. The manual

adjustment is performed with the

drums removed, using the tool and the

procedure detailed below.

When adjusting the rear brake

shoes,
check the parking brake cables

for proper adjustment. Make sure that

the equalizer operates freely.
To adjust the brake shoes:

1.
Use Rotunda Tool HRE 8650,

(Fig. 11) to determine the inside diam-

eter of the drum braking surface.

2.
Reverse the tool as shown in Fig.

11 and adjust the brake shoe diameter

to fit the gauge. Hold the automatic

adjusting lever out of engagement

while rotating the adjusting screw, to

prevent burring the screw slots. Make

sure the adjusting screw rotates freely.

If necessary, lubricate the adjusting

screw threads with a thin, uniform

coating of MIC-100-A.

3.
Rotate Tool HRE 8650 around

the brake shoes to be sure of the set-

ting.

4.
Apply a small quantity of high

temperature grease to the points

where the shoes contact the backing

plate, being careful not to get the lu-

bricant on the linings.

5. Install the drums. Install Tinner-

man nuts and tighten securely.

6. Install the wheels on the drums
and tighten the nuts to specification.

7.
Complete the adjustment by

applying the brakes several times with

a minimum of 50 lbs pressure on the

pedal while backing the vehicle. After

each stop the vehicle must be moved

forward.

8. After the brake shoes have been

properly adjusted, check the operation

of the brakes by making several stops

while operating in a forward direction.

WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR-

DRUM BRAKE

Wheel cylinders should not be di-

sassembled unless they are leaking or

unless new cups and boots are to be

installed. It is not necessary to remove

the brake cylinder from the backing

plate to disassemble, inspect, or hone

and overhaul the cylinder. Removal is

necessary only when the cylinder is

damaged or scored beyond repair.procarmanuals.com

02-02-10
Brake System

02-02-10

brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking

brake lever (Fig. 8).

4.
Install the shoe guide (anchor

pin) plate on the anchor pin when so

equipped.

5.
Place the cable eye over the an-

chor pin with the crimped side toward

the backing plate.

6. Install the primary shoe to an-

chor spring (Fig. 15).

H1391-A

FIG. 75—Retracting Spring

Installation

7.
Install the cable guide on the

secondary shoe web with the flanged

hole fitted into the hole in the second-

ary shoe web. Thread the cable

around the cable guide groove (Fig.

8).

It
is
imperative that
the
cable
be

positioned
in
this groove
and not be-

tween
the
guide
and the
shoe
web.

8.
Install the secondary shoe to an-

chor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 15.

Be certain that
the
cable
eye is not

cocked
or
binding
on the
anchor
pin

when installed.
All
parts should
be
flat

on
the
anchor
pin.
Remove
the
brake

cylinder clamp.

9. Apply high-temperature grease

(MIC-100-A) to the threads and the

socket end of the adjusting screw.

Turn the adjusting screw into the ad-

justing pivot nut to the limit of the

threads and then back off 1/2 turn.

Interchanging
the
brake shoe
ad-

justing screw assemblies from
one
side

of
the
vehicle
to the
other would cause

the brake shoes
to
retract rather than

expand each time
the
automatic
ad-

justing mechanism operated.
To pre-

vent installation on the wrong side of

the vehicle, the socket end of the ad-

justing screw is stamped with an R or

L (Fig. 16). The adjusting pivot nuts

can be distinguished by the number of

grooves machined around the body of

the nut. Two grooves on the nut indi-

cate a right thread; one groove indi-

cates a left thread.
10.
Place the adjusting socket on

the screw and install this assembly be-

tween the shoe ends with the adjusting

screw toothed wheel nearest the sec-

ondary shoe.

11.
Hook the cable hook into the

hole in the adjusting lever. The adjust-

ing levers are stamped with an R or L

to indicate their installation on right

or left brake assembly (Fig. 16).

12.
Position the hooked end of the

ADJUSTING LEVER

IDENTIFICATION LINES

H1143-C

FIG. 16—Adjusting Screw
and

Lever Identification

adjuster spring completely into the

large hole in the primary shoe web.

The last coil of the spring should be at

the edge of the hole. Connect the loop

end of the spring to the adjuster lever

hole.

13.
Pull the adjuster lever, cable

and automatic adjuster spring down

and toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the sec-

ondary shoe web (Fig. 8).

14.
After installation, check the ac-

tion of the adjuster by pulling the sec-

tion of the cable between the cable

guide and the anchor pin toward the

secondary shoe web far enough to lift

the lever past a tooth on the adjusting

screw wheel. The lever should snap

into position behind the next tooth,

and release of the cable should cause

the adjuster spring to return the lever

to its original position. This return ac-

tion of the lever will turn the adjusting

screw.one tooth.

If pulling the cable does not pro-

duce the action described, or if the

lever action is sluggish instead of posi-

tive and sharp, check the position of

the lever on the adjusting screw

toothed wheel. With the brake in a

vertical position (anchor at the top),

the lever should contact the adjusting

wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32

inch) above the centerline of the

screw. If the contact point is below

this centerline, the lever will not lock

on the teeth in the adjusting screw

wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.

To determine the cause of this con-

dition:

a. Check the cable end fittings. The

cable should completely fill or extend

slightly beyond the crimped section of

the fittings. If it does not meet this

specification, possible damage is indi-

cated and the cable assembly should

be replaced.

b.
Check the cable length. On

Ford, Mercury, Meteor, Thunderbird,

Continental Mark III, and Lincoln

Continental models, the cable should

measure 11 1/8 inches (plus or minus

1/64 inch) from the end of the cable

anchor to the end of the cable hook.

On Fairlane, Montego, Falcon,

Mustang, and Cougar models the

cable should measure 8 13/32 inches

on 9 inch brakes or 9 3/4 inches on

10 inch brakes from the end of the

cable anchor to the end of the cable

hook.

c. Check the cable guide for dam-

age.
The cable groove should be paral-

lel to the shoe web, and the body of

the guide should lie flat against the

web.
Replace the guide if it shows

damage.

d. Check the pivot hook on the

lever. The hook surfaces should be

square with the body of the lever for

proper pivoting. Replace the lever if

the hook shows damage.

e. See that the adjusting; screw

socket is properly seated in the notch

in the shoe web.

WHEEL CYLINDER

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL '

1.
Remove the wheel and the drum.

2.
Remove the brake shoe assem-

blies,
following procedures outlined in

this section.

3.
Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder Figs. 17 thru 21.

On
a
vehicle with
a
vacuum brake

booster,
be
sure
the
engine
is
stopped

and there
is no
vacuum
in the
booster

system before disconnecting
the hy-

draulic lines.

To disconnect the hose at a front

cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that

connects the opposite end of the hose

to the brake tube at a bracket on the

frame. Remove the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip from the hose and brack-

et, disengage the hose from the brack-

et, then unscrew the entire hose as-

sembly from the front wheel cylinder.

At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tubeprocarmanuals.com

02-02-25
Brake System

02-02-25

clearing the pin. Slide the switch com-

pletely onto the pin, and install the

nylon washer as shown in Figs. 29

thru 33. Be careful not to bend or de-

form the switch. Secure these parts to

the pin with the hairpin retainer. Con-

nect the stop light switch wires to the

connector, and install the wires in the

retaining clip.

BRAKE PEDAL

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

1.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin,

and then lift the switch straight up-

ward from the pin. Be careful not to

damage the switch during removal.

Slide the master cylinder or booster

push rod and the nylon washers and

bushing off the brake pedal pin (Figs.

26 and 29).

3.
Remove the hairpin type retainer

and washer from the brake pedal

shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake

pedal and the bushings from the pedal

support bracket.

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 En-

gine oil to the bushings and locate

bushings in their proper places on the

pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 26 and 29).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft through the support

bracket and brake pedal assembly. In-

stall the retainer.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 26 and 29. Be careful

not to bend or deform the switch. Se-

cure these parts to the pin with the

hairpin retainer.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.
5.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements,

Part 2-1, Section 1.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO AND

FALCON—MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

2.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

3.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

4.
Remove the switch retainer, and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.

5. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27 and 30).

6. Remove the self-locking pin and

washer from the clutch and brake

pedal shaft, then remove the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly, the brake

pedal assembly, and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket (Figs. 27

and 30).

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
Position the brake pedal to the

support bracket, then install the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the spring clip (Figs.

27 and 30).

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring.

4.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10

engine oil to the bushing.

5.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27 and 30. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking pin.
6. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

7.
Adjust the clutch pedal free play

(Group 5) to specification, if required.

8. Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

MUSTANG AND COUGAR—

MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

3.
On non-power brakes, remove

the two cap screws retaining the mas-

ter cylinder to the dash panel and re-

move the two cap screws retaining the

brake pedal support bracket to the

dash panel. On power brakes remove

the two cap screws retaining the

booster to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, se-

cure the clutch pedal against the

bumper stop with a small C-clamp as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

5.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder or

booster push rod, bushing and nylon

washer from the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. On power

brakes remove the nuts from the

brake booster studs.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Position the pedal and support

bracket assembly in a vise.

13.
Remove the C-clamp to release

the clutch pedal from its bumper stop

and pivot the pedal away from the

bumper.procarmanuals.com

02-02-26
Brake System

02-02-26

14.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

15.
On non-power brakes, remove

the retainer clip from the clutch and

brake pedal shaft, then remove the

clutch pedal and shaft assembly, the

brake pedal assembly, and the bush-

ings from the pedal support bracket.

On power brakes, remove the retainer

nut from the brake pedal shaft then

remove the pedal shaft, the brake

pedal assembly and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
On non-power brakes, position

the brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the clutch pedal

and shaft assembly through the sup-

port bracket and brake pedal assem-

bly. On power brakes position the

brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the pedal shaft

and nut.

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring and pivot the clutch pedal

against its bumper stop. Secure the

pedal to the stop with a small C-

clamp as shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

4.
Position the pedal support

bracket assembly to the dash panel,

and to the steering column retainer

studs.

5.
Align the pedal support bracket

holes with the holes in the dash panel

and install the two attaching sheet

metal screws. On power brakes install

the nuts on the brake booster studs.

6. Install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the upper cowl bracket.

7. Install the cap screw attaching

the pedal support bracket to the top

inner cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

8. Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the stop light switch so that it

straddles the push rod with the switch

slot on the pedal pin and the switch

outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide

the switch completely onto the pin,

and install the outer nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking retainer.

9. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector.

10.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10
engine oil to the bushing. Remove the

C-clamp from the clutch pedal.

11.
Working from the engine side

of the dash panel, on non-power

brakes, install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the dash panel. Then install the two

screws attaching the master cylinder

to the dash panel. On power brakes

install the cap screws retaining the

brake booster to the dash panel.

12.
Install the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

13.
Adjust the clutch pedal free

play (Group 5) to specification, if re-

quired.

14.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

15.
Connect the ground cable to the

battery.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG

AND COUGAR-

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Removal

1. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the self-locking pin and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

3.
On all vehicles except Mustang

and Cougar with power brakes, re-

move the self-locking pin and washer

from the brake pedal shaft, then re-

move the shaft, the brake pedal as-

sembly and the bushings from the

pedal support bracket. On Mustang

and Cougar vehicles with power

brakes, remove the locknut and bolt

from the pedal. Remove the pedal as-

sembly from the support bracket (Fig.

3).

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft or bolt through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the retainer or locknut.
3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin, and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31.

Secure these parts to the pin with the

self-locking pin.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

Check the Brake Pedal Free Height

and Travel Measurements, Part 2,

Section 1.

THUNDERBIRD
AND

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

Removal

1.
Loosen the booster mounting

nuts.

2.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

3.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off from

the brake pedal pin just far enough

for
the
switch outer hole
to
clear
the

pin,
and then lift the switch straight

upward from the pin. Slide the master

cylinder push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Fig. 32).

4.
Remove the pivot bolt and nut

that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-

port bracket. Remove the brake pedal

assembly from the pedal support

bracket, and remove the bushings.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly (Fig. 32).

2.
Install the brake pedal assembly

and bushings to the support bracket,

and then install the pivot bolt through

the support bracket and brake pedal

assembly. Install the pivot bolt nut

and torque to specifications.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the switch so that it straddles the

push rod with the switch slot on the

pedal pin and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Slide the switch

completely onto the pin, install the

outer nylon washer as shown in Fig.

32.
Secure these parts to the pin with

the hairpin retainer.procarmanuals.com

02-02-27
Brake System

02-02-27

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

5.
Torque the booster mounting

nuts to specifications.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
It is necessary to obtain clear-

ance to remove vacuum hoses and the

electrical connector to the temperature

heat control box. Remove the two

screws retaining the relay to the fend-

er and push the relay aside. Discon-

nect the vacuum hoses and connector

at the heat control box.

3.
Working under the instrument

panel, disconnect the vacuum hoses,

wires and retaining clip from the tem-

perature heat control box. Remove the

two screws securing the temperature

control box to the dash panel.

4.
Remove the lower control hous-

ing retaining screws (6). Disconnect

the wire harnesses at the lower control

panel and place the panel aside. Re-

move the wire harness shield. Remove

the wire harness clip. Position the

wire harness aside. Remove the tem-

perature control box and position it

aside.

5.
Remove the hair-pin type retain-

er. Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Lift the switch upward from the pin.

Slide the master cylinder push rod,

nylon washers and bushing off the

brake pedal pin.

6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut

that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-

port bracket. Remove the brake pedal

assembly from the support bracket

and remove the bushings.

7.
If required, remove the brake

pedal pad retaining nuts and remove

the brake pedal pad.

Installation

1.
If the brake pedal pad was re-

moved, position the pad on the pedal.

Install the pad retaining nuts and tor-

que them to specification.

2.
Apply SAE 10 engine oil to the

bushings and locate all the bushings in

their proper places on the pedal as-

sembly.

3.
Install the brake pedal assembly

and bushings to the support bracket,

and then install the pivot bolt through
the support bracket and pedal assem-

bly. Install the pivot bolt nut and tor-

que it to specification.

4.
Install the inner nylon washer,the

master cylinder push rod link, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the switch so that it straddles the

push rod link with the switch slot on

the pedal and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Install the outer

nylon washer as shown in Fig. 33. In-

stall the hair-pin type retainer on the

brake pedal pin.

5.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

6. Position the wire harness and

clip on the temperature control box

and install the retaining screw. Posi-

tion the temperature control box to

the dash panel and install the two re-

taining bolts.

7.
Connect the vacuum lines and

the electrical connector to the control

box. Position the wire harness to the

control box and install the retaining

clip.

8. Position the wire harness shield

and install two retaining bolts.

9. Connect the wire harnesses to

the lower control panel and install the

retaining screws.

10.
Working within the engine

compartment, connect the wire con-

nector to the temperature heat control

box.

11.
Position the relay to the fender

apron and install the retaining bolts.

12.
Connect the ground cable to the

battery.

13.
Check the brakes and light

switch for proper operation. Close the

hood.

PARKING BRAKE CONTROL

ASSEMBLY

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 34.

1.
Make sure the parking brake is

fully released.

2.
Remove all tension from the rear

cables by backing off the adjusting nut

from the equalizer.

3.
Remove the roll pin that secures

the release knob to the cable and re-

move the knob.

4.
Remove the nut that secures the

release cable to the instrument panel
and remove the cable from the rear of

the instrument panel.

5.
Remove the two nuts attaching

the control assembly to the dash

panel.

6. Remove the cap screw attaching

the control assembly to the cowl side

bracket.

7.
Disconnect the hose to the park-

ing brake vacuum unit, if so equipped.

8. Remove the front cable assembly

retainer clip from the cable assembly

and disconnect the cable ball from the

control clevis.

9. Remove the control assembly

from the vehicle.

Installation

1.
Position the control assembly in

the vehicle.

2.
Fit the cable assembly through

its mounting hole and install the re-

taining clip. Connect the cable ball to

the control clevis.

3.
Connect the vacuum hose to the

parking brake unit, if so equipped.

4.
Install the attaching cap screw to

the cowl side bracket. Do not tighten.

5.
Install the two control assemb-

ly-to-dash panel nuts. Tighten the nuts

and the cap screw to specifications.

6. Insert the release cable into the

instrument panel and install the re-

taining nut.

7.
Install the release knob on the

cable with the roll pin.

8. Check the operation of the park-

ing brake. Adjust the parking brake

as required.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO

AND FALCON

Removal

Refer to Fig. 35.

1.
Make sure the parking brake is

completely released.

2.
Remove all tension from the rear

cables by backing off the jam nut and

adjusting nut from the equalizer.

3.
Working inside the vehicle, re-

move the four bolts and one nut re-

taining the left air vent and cable as-

sembly to the dash and instrument

panels. Remove the vent assembly.

4.
Remove the parking brake front

cable ball retaining clip from the clev-

is.

5.
Disconnect the cable ball from

the notch in the brake clevis.

6. Remove the three screws that at-

tach the control assembly to the left

cowl inner side panel.procarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-02-18
Suspension

03-02-18

5.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud nut.

6. Loosen the upper ball joint stud

nut one or two turns. Do not remove

the nut from the stud at this time.

7.
Install tool T57P-3006-A be-

tween the upper and lower ball joint

studs with the adapter screw on top

(Fig. 13). The tool should be seated

firmly against the ends of both studs

and not against the nuts or lower stud

cotter pin.

8. With a wrench, turn the adapter

screw until the tool places the stua

under tension. Tap the spindle near

the upper stud with a hammer to loos-

en the stud in the spindle. Do not

loosen the stud from the spindle with

tool pressure only.

9. Remove the tool from between

the ball joint studs and place a floor

jack under the lower arm.

10.
Raise the floor jack to relieve

the pressure from the upper ball joint

stud nut and remove the nut.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching bolts. Remove the

upper arm and inner shaft as an as-

sembly (Fig. 1).

12.
Remove the bumpei from the

upper arm.

Installation

1.
Position the bumper to the upper

arm and install the nut and washer.

Torque the nut to specifications.

2.
Position the upper arm inner

shaft to the frame side rail and install

the 2 attaching bolts and washers

snug.

3.
Connect the upper ball joint stud

to the spindle and install the attaching

nut. Torque the nut to specification

and continue to tighten the nut until

the cotter pin hole in the stud is in

line with the nut slots. Then, install

the cotter pin.

4.
If equipped with drum type bra-

kes—Adjust the brakes as outlined in

Part 2-2. Install the wheel, tire, and

drum to the spindle and adjust the

wheel bearings as outlined in Part

3-12.

5.
If equipped with disc brak-

es—Install the wheel and tire on the

hub and adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

6. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

7.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the front of the vehicle.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

and adjust as required (Section 2, Part

3-D.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle,

position safety stands under the

frame, and lower the vehicle slightly.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the shock absorber

lower attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Remove the shock absorber

upper mounting bracket attaching

nuts,
and remove the shock absorber

and bracket as an assembly (Fig. 26).

On all 8-cylinder vehicles, remove

the air cleaner to obtain access for

tool installation.

5.
Install the spring compressor

tool and compress the spring (Figs.

19,
20 and 21).

6. Position a safety stand under the

lower arm.

7.
Remove the cotter pin from the

nut on the upper ball joint stud, and

loosen the nut one or two turns. Do

not remove the nut from the stud at

this time.

8. Position the ball joint remover

tool between the upper and lower ball

joint studs as shown in Fig. 10. The

tool should seat firmly against the

ends of both studs and not against the

stud nuts.

9. Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension; then, hit the spindle

smartly near the upper stud with a

hammer to break the stud loose in the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud in the

spindle with tool pressure only. If

both arms are being removed, loosen

the lower stud in the same manner as

the upper stud.

10.
Remove the nut from the upper

stud and lift the stud out of the

spindle.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching nuts from the engine

compartment, and remove the upper

arm.

12.
Wipe off all loose dirt from the

upper arm parts. Do not wash the ball

joint with a solvent.

Installation

1.
Position the upper arm on the

underbody mounting bracket, and in-

stall the nuts and lock washers on the

two inner shaft attaching bolts. The

specified keystone-type lock washers

must be used. Torque the nuts to

soecification.
2.
Position the upper ball joint stud

in the top of the wheel spindle, and in-

stall the stud nut. Torque the nut to

specification, and continue to tighten

it until the cotter pin hole and slots

line up. Install a new cotter pin.

3.
Release the coil spring, remove

the tool, and install the front shock

absorber and the wheel and tire.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Place a jack under the outer end

of the suspension lower arm and raise

the arm. Refer to Fig. 22.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud. Loosen the nut

one or two turns.

4.
Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the upper stud nut.

5.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the upper

stud to loosen it from the spindle. Do

not loosen the stud with tool pressure

alone. Remove the nut.

UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET

LOWER RETAINING BOLTS F 1490-A

FIG. 26—Removing or Installing

Front Shock Absorber—Typicalprocarmanuals.com

03-10-03
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-03

EIGHT CYLINDER WITH

AIR CONDITIONER

1.
Remove the power steering fluid

from the pump reservoir by discon-

necting the fluid return hose from the

reservoir and allow the fluid to drain

in a suitable container.

2.
Disconnect the pressure hose

from the pump.

3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of

the pump and the one nut at the rear

that attach the pump to the mounting

bracket and remove the drive belt

from the pump pulley.

4.
Loosen the upper pump bracket-

to-engine attaching bolt and remove

the bolt in the belt adjusting slot. Re-

move the pump.

5.
Position the pump to the bracket

and install the bracket-to-pump at-

taching bolts and nuts. Tighten to spe-

cifications.

6. Place the belt on the pump pul-

ley. Adjust the belt tension as outlined

in Section 2 and tighten the bolts and

nut to specification.

7.
Torque the pressure hose fitting

hex nut to specification. Then, connect

the pressure hose to the fitting and

torque the hose nut to specification.

8. Connect the return hose to the

power steering pump and tighten the

clamp.

9. Fill the pump with automatic

transmission fluid C1AZ-19582-A.

Bleed the air from the system (Part

3-1) and check for leaks and again
check the fluid level. Add fluid as re-

quired.

POWER STEERING PUMP

PULLEY REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL

1.
Drain as much of the fluid as

possible from the pump through filler

pipe.

2.
Install a 3/8-16 inch capscrew in

the end of the pump shaft to prevent

damage to the shaft end by the tool

screw.

3.
Install the pulley remover, Tool

T63L-1O3OO-B, on pulley hub, and

place the tool and pump in a vise as

shown in Fig. 3.

4.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut counterclockwise to remove

the pulley (Fig. 3). The pulley must be

removed without in and out pressure

on the pump shaft to prevent damage

to internal thrust areas.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position the pulley to the pump

shaft and install Tool T65P-3A733-A

as shown in Fig. 4.

2.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut clockwise to install the pulley

on the shaft. The pulley face will be

flush with end of pump shaft. Install

the pulley without in and out pressure
on the shaft to prevent damage to in-

ternal thrust areas.

3.
Remove the tool.

POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

Reservoir replacement must be done

on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of

work area and tools is extremely im-

portant when repairing any hydraulic

unit. Thoroughly clean the exterior of

the pump with a suitable cleaning sol-

vent. Do not clean, wash or soak the

shaft oil seal in solvent. Plug the inlet

and outlet openings with plugs or

masking tape before cleaning the

pump exterior or removing the reser-

voir.

REMOVAL

1.
Assemble the adapter plate (Tool

T69P-3A674-A) to the bench mounted

fixture tool (T57L-5OO-A). Position

the pump and pulley on the adapter

plate, pulley facing down.

2.
Remove the outlet fitting hex nut

and the service identification tag.

3.
Invert the pump so the pulley is

facing up and remove the reservoir by

tapping around the flange with a wood

block (Fig. 5).

4.
Remove the reservoir O-ring seal

and the outlet fitting gasket from the

pump.

INSTALLATION

Tool • T 63 L-

10300 -

G 1477 A

FIG. 3—Removing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1478 A

FIG. 4—Installing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1.
Install a new gasket on the outlet

fitting and a new reservoir O-ring seal

on the pump housing plate (Fig. 6).

The old gasket and seal should never

be re-used.

Too/
T57L 500-A

G1602-A

FIG. 5—Removing Pump

Reservoirprocarmanuals.com

03-12-07
Wheels And Tires

03-12-07

Tool - 7277- K

F 1263-A

FIG. 17—Installing Front Wheel Bearing Cup

13.
Pack the bearing cone and roll-

er assemblies with wheel bearing

grease. A bearing packer is desirable

for this operation. If a packer is not

available, work as much lubricant as

possible between the rollers and cages.

Lubricate the cone surfaces with

grease.

14.
Place the inner bearing cone

and roller assembly in the inner cup.

Apply a light film of grease to the lips

of the grease retainer and install the

new grease retainer with the tool

shown in Fig. 18. Be sure the retainer

is properly seated.

15.
Install the hub and rotor as-

sembly on the wheel spindle. Keep the

hub centered on the spindle to prevent

damage to the grease retainer or the

spindle threads.

16.
Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle, then install the ad-

justing nut.

17.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

18.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and torque the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications as detailed in Group 2.

19.
Install the wheel and tire on the

hub.

20.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

21.
Before driving the vehicle,

pump the brake pedal several times to

obtain normal brake lining to rotor

clearance and restore normal brake

pedal travel.
FRONT HUB AND DRUM

ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

When the hub and drum assembly

is replaced, new bearings and a grease

retainer must be installed in the new

assembly. The new grease retainer

should be soaked in light engine oil at

least 30 minutes before installation.

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clears the floor. Pry off the

hub cap or wheel cover, and remove

the wheel and tire from the hub and

drum assembly.

2.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly (Fig. 1).

3.
Pull the hub and drum assembly

off the wheel spindle.

4.
Remuve the grease retainer and

the inner bearing cone and roller as-

sembly from the hub with Tool

1175AE.

5.
Remove the protective coating

from the new hub and drum with car-

buretor degreaser.

6. Pack the inside of the hub with

specified wheel bearing grease. Add

lubricant to the hub only until the

grease is flush with the inside diame-

ter of both bearing cups (Fig. 15).

7.
All old grease should be com-

pletely cleaned from the bearings be-

fore repacking them with new grease.

Pack the bearing cone and roller

assemblies with wheel bearing grease.

A bearing packer is desirable for this

operation. If a packer is not available,

work as much lubricant as possible

between the rollers and cages. Lubri-

cate the cone surfaces with grease.
8. Place the inner bearing cone and

roller assembly in the inner cup, and

install the new grease retainer with the

reverse end of the tool shown in Fig.

6. Be sure that the retainer is properly

seated.

9. Adjust the brake shoes as out-

lined in Group 2.

10.
Install the new hub and drum

assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep

the hub centered on the spindle to pre-

vent damage to the grease retainer.

11.
Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle; then, install the ad-

justing nut (Fig. 1).

12.
Position the wheel and tire on

the new hub and drum assembly. In-

stall the wheel hub nuts and tighten

them alternately in order to draw the

wheel evenly against the hub and

drum.

13.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

14.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

FRONT HUB AND ROTOR

ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

When the hub and rotor assembly is

replaced, new bearings and a grease

retainer must be installed in the new

assembly.

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clear the floor. Pry off the

hub cap or wheel cover, and remove

the wheel and tire from the hub and

rotor assembly.

2.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-

move the caliper from the rotor and

wire it to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle; then, remove the outer

bearing cone and roller assembly,

(Fig. 2).

4.
Pull the hub and rotor off the

spindle.

5.
Remove the protective coating

from the new hub and rotor with car-

buretor degreaser.

6. Grease and install the inner

bearing cone and roller assembly in

the inner bearing cup. Apply a light

film of grease on the grease retainerprocarmanuals.com

04-02-13

Rear Axle
—
Removable Carrier Type
04-02-13

lower insulators. Torque
the
spring

clip nuts
to
specification.

2.
Place
the
brake backing plates
in

their normal position
on the
axle

housing.

3.
Install
new
axle shaft
oil
seals

with
the
tool shown
in Fig. 10.
Soak

the
new
seals
in
light weight engine
oil

(SAE
10) for 1/2
hour before install-

ing them. Installation without
use of

the proper tool will distort
the
seal

and cause leakage. Coat
the
outside
edges
of the new oil
seal with
a non-

hardening type
of
sealer such
as Per-

matex
No. 2 or its
equivalent.

4.
Install
the
axle shafts, brake

drums
and
wheels
as
outlined
in Sec-

tion
2.

5.
Attach
the
hydraulic brake line

T fitting
to the
axle housing,
and se-

cure
the
hydraulic brake line
in its re-

tainer
on the
axle housing.

6. Install vent tube
to
brake tube

junction
and
install vent hose
to
vent
tube.

7.
Raise
the
axle housing
and con-

nect
the
shock absorbers.

8. Connect
the
rear
end of the
drive

shaft
to the
axle U-joint flange, align-

ing
the
scribe marks made
on the

drive shaft
end
yoke
and the
axle
U-

joint flange.

9. Fill
the
axle with
the
proper

grade
and
amount
of
lubricant.

10.
Road test
the
vehicle.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

DISASSEMBLY
OF

DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER

CONVENTIONAL

DIFFERENTIAL

A disassembled view
of the
rear

axle assembly
is
shown
in Fig. 17.

After mounting
the
carrier
in a

holding fixture, disassemble
the car-

rier
as
outlined
in the
following proce-

dures:

1.
Mark
one
differential bearing

cap
and the
mating bearing support

with punch marks
to
help position
the

parts properly during assembly
of the

carrier. Also, mark
one of the
bearing

adjusting nuts
and the
carrier with

AXLE SHAFT-4725
RETAINER RING-1100
scribe marks
for
proper location
dur-

ing assembly.

2.
Remove
the
adjusting
nut
locks,

bearing caps,
and
adjusting nuts. Then

lift
the
differential case assembly
out

of
the
carrier.

(Remove
the
bearing caps
by tap-

ping
the
caps lightly with
a
soft
mal-

let).

3.
Remove
the
differential bearings

with
the
tools shown
in Fig. 18.

4.
Mark
the
differential case, cover,

and ring gear
for
assembly
in the
orig-

inal position.

5.
Remove
the
bolts that attach
the

ring gear
to the
differential case. Press

the gear from
the
case
or tap it off

with
a
soft-faced hammer.

6. With
a
drift, drive
out the
differ-

AXLE HOUSING-4010

DIFFERENTIAL

PINION SHAFT-4211
ential pinion shaft lock
pin (Fig. 19),

and separate
the
2-piece differential

case.

7.
Drive
out the
pinion shaft with
a

brass drift
(Fig. 20).

8. Remove
the
gears
and
thrust

washers
(Fig. 48).

LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL

1.
Remove
the
differential case

from
the
carrier
and
remove
the
bear-

ings from
the
differential case
in the

same manner
as the
conventional
dif-

ferential case.

2.
Place
the
differential case
in a

hydraulic press,
and
apply about
one

ton pressure across
the
case bearing

hubs while removing
the
ring gear
at-

FLAT WASHER (LIMITED SLIP ONLY)

DRIVE GEAR ATTACHING BOLT

DIFFERENTIAL CASE COVER -4206

DIFFERENTIAL PINION GEAR-4215

THRUST WASHER-4230

ADJUSTING NUT-4067

CARRIER HOUSING-4025

DRIVE PINION-4610
PINION BEARING

SPACER-4662

PINION FRONT

BEARING-4621

RING GEAR

PILOT BEARING-4A242

FIG. 17—Rear Axle Disassembled—Typical
PILOT BEARING

RETAINER-4627

PINION REAR

BEARING CUP-4616
DEFLECTOR-4859

PINION RETAINER-4668

SEAL-4676
FLANGE_4858
E1750-Aprocarmanuals.com