flat tire FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

Page 18 of 413


02-01-07
Brakes

02-01-07

CENTRALIZING THE

PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL

VALVE

After a failure of the primary (front

brake) or secondary (rear brake) sys-

tem has been repaired and bled, the

dual-brake warning light will usually

continue to be illuminated due to the

pressure differential valve remaining in

the off-center position.

To centralize the pressure differen-

tial valve and turn off the warning
light after a repair operation, a pres-

sure differential or unbalance condi-

tion must be created in the opposite

brake system from the one that was

repaired or bled last.

1.
Turn the ignition switch to the

ACC or ON position. Loosen the dif-

ferential valve assembly brake tube

nut at the outlet port on the opposite

side of the brake system that was

wheel balanced, repaired and/or bled

last. Depress the brake pedal slowly to

build line pressure until the pressure
differential valve is moved to a cen-

tralized position and the brake warn-

ing light goes out; then, immediately

tighten the outlet port tube nut.

2.
Check the fluid level in the mas-

ter cylinder reservoirs and fill them to

within 1/4 inch of the top with the

specified brake fluid, if necessary.

3.
Turn the ignition switch to the

OFF position.

4.
Before driving the vehicle, check

the operation of the brakes and be

sure that a firm pedal is obtained.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

DISC BRAKES

1.
Remove the wheel and tire and

the shoe and lining assemblies as out-

lined in Part 2-2, Section 2.

2.
On all models except Lincoln

Continental, make thickness measure-

ments with a micrometer across the

thinnest section of the shoe and lining.

If the assembly has worn to a thick-

ness of 0.230-inch (shoe and lining to-

gether) or 0.030-inch (lining material

only) at any one of three measuring

locations or if there is more than

0.125 taper from end to end or if lin-

ing shows evidence of brake fluid con-

tamination, replace all (4) shoe and

lining assemblies on both front wheels.

On Lincoln Continental brakes

make three thickness measurements

with a micrometer across the middle

section of the shoe and lining. Take

one reading at each side and one in

the center. If the assembly has worn

to a thickness of 0.231 inch (shoe and

lining together) or 0.066 inch (lining

material only) at any one of the three

measuring locations, replace all (4)

shoe and lining assemblies on both

front wheels.

3.
Check the caliper to spindle at-

taching bolts torque. Torque them to

specification, if required.

4.
To check rotor runout, first

eliminate the wheel bearing end play

by tightening the adjusting nut. After

tightening the nut, check to see that

the rotor can still be rotated.

5.
Clamp a dial indicator to the

caliper housing so that the stylus con-

tact the rotor at a point approximate-

ly 1 inch from the outer edge. Rotate

the rotor and take an indicator read-

ing. If the reading exceeds 0.003 inch

total lateral runout on the indicator,

replace or resurface the disc brake

rotor. The following requirement must

be met when resurfacing disc brake

rotors:
Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment

FRE-2249-2 is the only approved tool

to be used to refinish the disc brake

rotors.
The step-by-step resurfacing

procedure provided with the tool must

be adhered to.

The finished braking surface of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator

reading, braking surface are to be 80/15

micro inches.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental the minimum limiting dimen-

sion from the inboard bearing cup to

the inboard rotor face and the mini-

mum rotor thickness dimension, must

be observed when removing material

from the rotor braking surfaces. A

ball and gage bar (Rotunda Kit FRE

70160) is to be used when checking

minimum dimensions (Fig. 11).

FALCON-FAIRLANE

MUSTANG-COUGAR

MONTEGO

.046 MAX-**

.119
MAX.

FORD-MERCURY

METEOR - THUNDERBIRD
875
MIN

H1633-A

1.12
MIN.-^

??
— Disc Brake Rotor

Service Limits—All Models Except

Lincoln Continental

On Lincoln Continental models the

minimum limiting dimension (Fig. 12)

from the inboard bearing cup to the
inboard rotor face (dimension B)

and the outboard rotor surface and

the inboard bearing cup (dimension

A),
must be observed when remov-

ing material from the rotor braking

surfaces.

When the runout check is finished

be sure to adjust the bearings as out-

lined in Group 3, in order to prevent

bearing failure.

6. Check the rotor for scoring. Mi-

nor scores can be removed with a

fine emery cloth. If the rotor is ex-

cessively scored, refinish it as out-

lined in step 5 or replace the rotor,

if required.

7.
Visually check the caliper. If the

caliper housing is leaking it should be

replaced. If a seal is leaking the cali-

per must be disassembled and new

.seals installed. If a piston is seazed

in the bore a new caliper housing is

required.

On Lincoln Continental models the

two halves of the caliper assembly

should never be separated. Damage or

failure of one requires replacement of

both as a unit.

Check the brake hoses for signs of

cracking, leaks or abrasion. Replace

them if necessary.

DISC BRAKE SERVICE

PRECAUTIONS

1.
Grease or any other foreign ma-

terial must be kept off the caliper as-

sembly, surfaces of the rotor and ex-

ternal surfaces of the hub during serv-

ice operations. Handling of the rotor

and caliper assemblies should be done

in a way to avoid deformation of the

brake rotor and nicking or scratching

of brake linings.

2.
If a caliper piston is removed for

any reason, the piston seal must be re-

placed.

3.
During removal and installation

of a wheel assembly, exercise care not

to interfere with and damage the cali-procarmanuals.com

Page 28 of 413


02-02-09
Brake System

02-02-09

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

FRONT BRAKE DRUM

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clear the floor. Remove the

wheel cover or hub cap, and remove

the wheel and tire from the drum.

2.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly.

3.
Pull the drum off the wheel

spindle.

4.
If the drum will not come off,

pry the rubber cover from the brake

backing plate. Insert a narrow screw-

driver through the slot and disengage

the adjusting lever from the adjusting

screw. While holding the adjusting

lever away from the screw, back off

the adjusting screw with the brake ad-

justing tool (Fig. 13). Be very careful

not to burr, chip, or damage the

notches in the adjusting screw; other-

wise the self-adjusting mechanism will

not function properly.

INSTALLATION

1.
If the drum is being replaced, re-

move the protective coating from the

new drum with carburetor degreaser.

Then, use sandpaper to insure that no

residue remains. Wipe the drum with

a cloth soaked with denatured alcohol.

Install new bearings and grease seal.

Pack the wheel bearings, install the

inner bearing cone and roller assembly

RUBBER PLUG

REMOVED

'MOVE HANDLE UPWARD

TO RETRACT BRAKE SHOES
in the inner cup, and install the new

grease seal see Part 3-5, Section 4.

If the original drum is being in-

stalled, make sure that the grease in

the hub is clean and adequate.

2.
Adjust the brakes and install the

drum assembly as outlined under

Brake Shoe Adjustments in this sec-

tion.

3.
Install the outer wheel bearing,

washer and adjusting nut.

4.
Adjust the wheel bearing as out-

lined in Part 3-7, Section 2, then in-

stall the grease cap. Install the wheel

and hub cap.

REAR BRAKE DRUM

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle so that the tire

is clear of the floor.

2.
Remove the hub cap and wheel.

Remove the three Tinnerman nuts and

remove the brake drum. If the drum

will not come off, pry the rubber

cover from the backing plate. Insert a

narrow screwdriver through the hole

in the backing plate, and disengage

the adjusting lever from the adjusting

screw. While holding the adjusting

lever away from the adjusting screw,

back off the adjusting screw with the

brake adjusting tool (Fig. 13). Be very

careful not to burr, chip, or damage

the notches in the adjusting screw;

otherwise, the self-adjusting mecha-

nism will not function properly.

INSTALLATION

1.
Remove the protective coating

from a new drum with carburetor de-

greaser; then sand lightly and wipe

with a cloth soaked with denatured al-

cohol.

HI 590-A
H1390-A

FIG. 73—Backing Off Brake

Adjustment
FIG. 14—Retracting Spring

Removal
2.
Adjust the brakes as outlined

under Brake Shoe Adjustments in this

section. Place the drum over the brake

assembly and into position.

3.
Install the three Tinnerman nuts

and tighten securely. Install the wheel

on the axle shaft flange studs against

the drum, and tighten the attaching

nuts to specifications.

BRAKE SHOES AND

ADJUSTING SCREW-

DRUM BRAKES

REMOVAL

1.
With the wheel and drum re-

moved install a clamp over the ends of

the brake cylinder as shown in Fig.

14.

2.
Remove the secondary shoe to

anchor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 14. With the same tool remove

the primary shoe to anchor spring and

unhook the cable eye from the anchor

pin.

3.
On Ford, Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Continental Mark III

and Lincoln Continental models, re-

move the shoe guide (anchor pin)

plate (Fig. 8).

4.
Remove the shoe hold-down

springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot

nut, socket and automatic adjustment

parts.

5.
On rear brakes, remove the

parking brake link and spring. Dis-

connect the parking brake cable from

the parking brake lever.

*>.
After removing the rear brake

secondary shoe, disassemble the park-

ing brake lever from the shoe by re-

moving the retaining clip and spring

washer (Fig. 8).

INSTALLATION

1.
Before installing the rear brake

shoes,
assemble the parking brake

lever to the secondary shoe and secure

with the spring washer and retaining

clip.

2.
Apply a light coating of high-

temperature grease at the points

where the brake shoes contact the

backing plate.

3.
Position the brake shoes on the

backing plate and secure the assembly

with the hold down springs. On the

rear brake, install the parking brake

link and spring, back off the parkingprocarmanuals.com

Page 29 of 413


02-02-10
Brake System

02-02-10

brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking

brake lever (Fig. 8).

4.
Install the shoe guide (anchor

pin) plate on the anchor pin when so

equipped.

5.
Place the cable eye over the an-

chor pin with the crimped side toward

the backing plate.

6. Install the primary shoe to an-

chor spring (Fig. 15).

H1391-A

FIG. 75—Retracting Spring

Installation

7.
Install the cable guide on the

secondary shoe web with the flanged

hole fitted into the hole in the second-

ary shoe web. Thread the cable

around the cable guide groove (Fig.

8).

It
is
imperative that
the
cable
be

positioned
in
this groove
and not be-

tween
the
guide
and the
shoe
web.

8.
Install the secondary shoe to an-

chor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 15.

Be certain that
the
cable
eye is not

cocked
or
binding
on the
anchor
pin

when installed.
All
parts should
be
flat

on
the
anchor
pin.
Remove
the
brake

cylinder clamp.

9. Apply high-temperature grease

(MIC-100-A) to the threads and the

socket end of the adjusting screw.

Turn the adjusting screw into the ad-

justing pivot nut to the limit of the

threads and then back off 1/2 turn.

Interchanging
the
brake shoe
ad-

justing screw assemblies from
one
side

of
the
vehicle
to the
other would cause

the brake shoes
to
retract rather than

expand each time
the
automatic
ad-

justing mechanism operated.
To pre-

vent installation on the wrong side of

the vehicle, the socket end of the ad-

justing screw is stamped with an R or

L (Fig. 16). The adjusting pivot nuts

can be distinguished by the number of

grooves machined around the body of

the nut. Two grooves on the nut indi-

cate a right thread; one groove indi-

cates a left thread.
10.
Place the adjusting socket on

the screw and install this assembly be-

tween the shoe ends with the adjusting

screw toothed wheel nearest the sec-

ondary shoe.

11.
Hook the cable hook into the

hole in the adjusting lever. The adjust-

ing levers are stamped with an R or L

to indicate their installation on right

or left brake assembly (Fig. 16).

12.
Position the hooked end of the

ADJUSTING LEVER

IDENTIFICATION LINES

H1143-C

FIG. 16—Adjusting Screw
and

Lever Identification

adjuster spring completely into the

large hole in the primary shoe web.

The last coil of the spring should be at

the edge of the hole. Connect the loop

end of the spring to the adjuster lever

hole.

13.
Pull the adjuster lever, cable

and automatic adjuster spring down

and toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the sec-

ondary shoe web (Fig. 8).

14.
After installation, check the ac-

tion of the adjuster by pulling the sec-

tion of the cable between the cable

guide and the anchor pin toward the

secondary shoe web far enough to lift

the lever past a tooth on the adjusting

screw wheel. The lever should snap

into position behind the next tooth,

and release of the cable should cause

the adjuster spring to return the lever

to its original position. This return ac-

tion of the lever will turn the adjusting

screw.one tooth.

If pulling the cable does not pro-

duce the action described, or if the

lever action is sluggish instead of posi-

tive and sharp, check the position of

the lever on the adjusting screw

toothed wheel. With the brake in a

vertical position (anchor at the top),

the lever should contact the adjusting

wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32

inch) above the centerline of the

screw. If the contact point is below

this centerline, the lever will not lock

on the teeth in the adjusting screw

wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.

To determine the cause of this con-

dition:

a. Check the cable end fittings. The

cable should completely fill or extend

slightly beyond the crimped section of

the fittings. If it does not meet this

specification, possible damage is indi-

cated and the cable assembly should

be replaced.

b.
Check the cable length. On

Ford, Mercury, Meteor, Thunderbird,

Continental Mark III, and Lincoln

Continental models, the cable should

measure 11 1/8 inches (plus or minus

1/64 inch) from the end of the cable

anchor to the end of the cable hook.

On Fairlane, Montego, Falcon,

Mustang, and Cougar models the

cable should measure 8 13/32 inches

on 9 inch brakes or 9 3/4 inches on

10 inch brakes from the end of the

cable anchor to the end of the cable

hook.

c. Check the cable guide for dam-

age.
The cable groove should be paral-

lel to the shoe web, and the body of

the guide should lie flat against the

web.
Replace the guide if it shows

damage.

d. Check the pivot hook on the

lever. The hook surfaces should be

square with the body of the lever for

proper pivoting. Replace the lever if

the hook shows damage.

e. See that the adjusting; screw

socket is properly seated in the notch

in the shoe web.

WHEEL CYLINDER

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL '

1.
Remove the wheel and the drum.

2.
Remove the brake shoe assem-

blies,
following procedures outlined in

this section.

3.
Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder Figs. 17 thru 21.

On
a
vehicle with
a
vacuum brake

booster,
be
sure
the
engine
is
stopped

and there
is no
vacuum
in the
booster

system before disconnecting
the hy-

draulic lines.

To disconnect the hose at a front

cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that

connects the opposite end of the hose

to the brake tube at a bracket on the

frame. Remove the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip from the hose and brack-

et, disengage the hose from the brack-

et, then unscrew the entire hose as-

sembly from the front wheel cylinder.

At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tubeprocarmanuals.com

Page 38 of 413


02-02-19
Brake System

02-02-19

that the tabs on the shoe flanges seat

fully against the caliper bridges (Fig.

25).

2.
Install the caliper splash shield

and secure the shield to the caliper

with two retaining bolts (Fig. 4).

3.
Pump the brake pedal several

times until a firm pedal is obtained

and the shoe and lining assemblies are

properly seated.

4.
Install the wheel and tire assem-

bly on the hub and rotor assembly.

5.
Check and refill the master cyl-

inder reservoir with specified brake

fluid as required.

6. Road test the car.

It should not be necessary to bleed

the system after a shoe and lining re-

placement.

FRONT WHEEL HUB AND

ROTOR ASSEMBLY-

DISC BRAKES

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the wheel and tire from

the hub (Figs. 23 and 24). Be careful

to avoid damage or interference with

the bleeder screw fitting. On Lincoln

Continental models be careful to avoid

damage to the caliper splash shield or

transfer tube.

2.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the spindle and the rotor. If the

caliper does not require servicing, it is

not necessary to disconnect the brake

hose or remove the caliper from the

vehicle. Position the caliper out of the

way, and support it with a wire to

avoid damaging the caliper or stretch-

ing the hose. Insert a clean cardboard

spacer between the linings to prevent

the piston from coming out of the cyl-

inder bore while the caliper is re-

moved.

Handle the rotor and caliper assem-

blies in such a way as to avoid defor-

mation of the rotor and nicking,

scratching or contamination of the

brake linings.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly.

4.
Remove the hub and rotor as-

sembly from the spindle.

INSTALLATION

1.
If the rotor is being replaced, re-

move the protective coating from the

new rotor with carburetor degreaser.

Pack a new set of bearings with speci-
fied grease (M-1C75B), and install the

inner bearing cone and roller assembly

in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly

between the lips of a new grease seal

and install the seal (Figs. 23 and 24).

If the original rotor is being in-

stalled, make sure that the grease in

the hub is clean and adequate, that

the inner bearing and grease seal are

lubricated and in good condition, and

that the rotor braking surfaces are

clean.

2.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly on the spindle.

3.
Lubricate and install the outer

wheel bearing, washer and adjusting

nut.

4.
Adjust the wheel bearings to

specification, and then install the nut

lock, cotter pin, and grease cap. The

wheel bearing adjustment is especially

important with disc brakes.

5. Mount the caliper assembly on

the spindle following the Disc Brake

Caliper Assembly Installation proce-

dure in this section.

DISC BRAKE ROTOR

SPLASH SHIELD

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the caliper and the hub

and rotor assembly as outlined under
Removal in the foregoing procedure

(it is not necessary to disconnect hy-

draulic connections).

2.
Remove the three bolts that at-

tach the splash shield to the spindle,

and remove the shield (Figs. 23 and

24).

3.
Remove and discard the splash

shield to spindle gasket.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install a new splash shield to

spindle gasket.

2.
If the shield is bent, straighten it

out before installation. Position the

shield to the mounting bracket, install

the attaching bolts, nuts and torque

them to specification.

3.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly and the caliper as outlined under

Installation in the foregoing proce-

dure.

DUAL MASTER CYLINDER—

NON POWER BRAKES

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 26.

BUSHING

HAIRPIN

RETAINER

BUSHING

STOPLIGHT SWITCH

13480
HI 637-A

FIG. 26—Dual Master Cylinder Installation— Non Power Brakes

Ford,
Mercury, and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

Page 87 of 413


03-02-11
Suspension

03-02-11

nuts to specification. Make sure that

the joint is completely filled with the

specified lubricant.

9. Guide the ball joint stud into the

spindle. Install the stud nut and tor-

que it to specification. Continue to

tighten the nut to line up the cotter

pin hole. Install the cotter pin.

10.
Install the wheel and tire. Tor-

que the wheel nuts to specification.

STABILIZER REPAIR

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

To replace the end bushings on each

stabilizer link, use the following pro-

cedure.

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the nut, washer and in-

sulator from the lower end of the sta-

bilizer bar attaching bolt.

3.
Remove the bolt and the remain-

ing washers(3) insulators (3) and the

spacer.

4.
Assemble a flat washer and a

new insulator on the bolt.

5.
Insert the bolt through the stabi-

lizer bar then install a new insulator

and a flat washer on it.

6. Install the spacer, flat washer

and another new insulator on the bolt

(Fig. 1).

7.
Insert the bolt through the lower

arm and install a new insulator and a

flat washer. Install and torque the at-

taching nut to specification.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to

provide working space, and place sup-

ports under both front wheels.

2.
Disconnect the stabilizer from

each link. Disconnect both stabilizer

attaching brackets, and remove the

stabilizer.

3.
Coat the necessary parts of the

stabilizer with RUGLYDE or a com-

parable lubricant, and slide new insu-

lators onto the stabilizer.

4.
Secure each end of the stabilizer

bar to the lower arm making sure that

the bolt head is at the top (Fig. 2) to

eliminate interference with the brake

hose.

5.
Remove the supports and lower

the vehicle.
FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER

ARM STRUT AND/OR

BUSHING

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the cotter pin from the

lower arm strut at the frame front

crossmember and remove the nut,

washer, and bushing from the strut.

2.
Remove nuts, washers, and bolts

attaching the strut and rubber bumper

to the lower arm (Fig. 1).

3.
Pull the strut from the frame

crossmember.

4.
Remove the crossmember rear

side bushing and washer from the

strut.

5.
Place the crossmember rear side

washer and bushing on the strut and

position the strut to the frame and

lower arm.

6. Position the rubber bumper on

the strut and install the bolts, washer,

and nuts attaching the strut to the

lower arm. Torque the nuts and bolts

to specification.

7.
Install the bushing, washer, and

nut on the strut at the front cross-

member. Tighten the nut and install

the cotter pin.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

and adjust if necessary.

LOWER ARM STRUT AND/OR

BUSHING REPLACEMENT

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Position the support as shown in

Figs.
8 and 9 under the upper arm.
2.
Raise the vehicle, position safety

stands, and remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin, castelated

nut and the adjustment nut from the

front of the strut.

4.
With two pry bars approximately

18 inches long, one at each side and at

the rear of the front washer, pry it

forward to separate the inner sleeve

from the outer sleeve. Remove the

front insulator from the strut (Fig.

26).

5.
Install the new rear washer

(large ID), outer sleeve and insulator

bushing on the forward end of the

strut rod.

6. Position the strut into the

crossmember and to the lower suspen-

sion arm. Install the strut-to-arm at-

taching bolts and nuts, and torque

them to specification.

7.
Install the forward insulator

washer (small ID), inner sleeve and

adjustment nut on the forward end of

the strut. The inner sleeve need not be

crimped to the outer sleeve.

8. Install the wheel and tire, re-

move the safety stands and lower the

vehicle. Remove the tool supporting

the upper arm.

9. Adjust the caster and camber to

specification.

10.
Install the castellated nut and

cotter pin.

DRIVE SHAFT PINION

ANGLE ADJUSTMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pinion-drive shaft working

angle must be checked and adjusted to

ADJUSTING

SCREW

F1432- A
F1503-A

FIG. 14—Alignment Spacer

Installation
FIG. 75—Positioning Tool On

U-Jointprocarmanuals.com

Page 97 of 413


03-02-21
Suspension

03-02-21

8. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the stud nuts.

9. Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the studs

to loosen them from the spindle. Do

not loosen
the
studs with tool pressure

alone.

10.
Place a jack under the outer

end of the lower arm, and raise the

arm several inches. Remove both ball

stud nuts, and remove t^e spindle.

Installation

1.
Position the new spindle onto the

upper and lower ball joint studs, in-

stall the stud nuts and tighten the nuts

to specifications. Continue to tighten

both nuts until the cotter pin holes

line up with the slots, then install new

cotter pines.

2.
Connect the spindle connecting

rod to the spindle arm. Install the re-

taining nut and tighten the nut to

specification. Continue to tighten the

nut until the cotter pin hole lines up

with the slot, then install a new cotter

pin.

3.
Install the gasket and splash

shield on the spindle. Tighten the at-

taching bolts to specifications.

4.
Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle.

5.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications. Check for the correct flex-

ible hose routing (Part 2-2).

6. Install the wheel and tire and ad-

just the wheel bearings (Part 3-12).

7.
Lubricate the steering stop on

the lower arm and the mating flat on

the spindle with the specified lubri-

cant.

8. Remove the safety stands, lower

the car and check camber, caster and

toe-in.

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the nut, washer, and

bushing from the shock absorber

upper end.

2.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and

install safety stands.
3.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the

shock absorber to the lower arm and

remove the shock absorber.

4.
Place a washer and bushing on

the shock absorber top stud and posi-

tion the shock absorber inside the

front spring. Install the 2 lower at-

taching bolts and torque them to spe-

cifications.

5.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the vehicle.

6. Place a bushing and washer on

the shock absorber top stud and in-

stall the attaching nut. Torque it to

specification.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1. Raise the hood and remove 3

shock absorber upper mounting

bracket-to-spring tower attaching

nuts.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

place safety stands under the lower

arms.

3.
Remove 2 shock absorber lower

attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Lift the shock absorber and

upper bracket from the spring tower

(Fig. 26) and remove the bracket from

the shock absorber.

Installation

1. Install the upper mounting

bracket on the shock absorber and

torque to specification.

2.
Position the shock absorber and

upper mounting bracket in the spring

tower, making sure the shock absor-

ber lower studs are in the pivot plate

holes.

3.
Install the 2 washers and attach-

ing nuts on the shock absorber lower

studs and torque to specification.

4.
Install the 3 shock absorber

upper mounting bracket-to-spring

tower attaching nuts and torque to

specification. Then, remove the safety

stands and lower the vehicle.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Remove the stud nut at the

upper eye of the shock absorber. Re-

move the upper eye stud bracket to

crossmember attaching bolt and re-

move the stud bracket. Refer to Fig.

22.
2.
Remove the bolts which attach

the shock absorber to the suspension

lower arm. Lower, and remove the

shock absorber.

3.
Examine the shock absorber unit

and rubber bushings. Replace parts

that are defective, deteriorated, or

worn.

Installation

1. Fully extend the shock absorber

and position it inside the coil spring.

Connect the lower end of the shock

absorber to the suspension lower arm.

Torque the attaching nuts to specifica-

tion.

2.
Insert the upper bracket stud

through the bushing in the shock ab-

sorber upper eye. Install the stud

bracket to crossmember attaching

bolt. Do not tighten the bolt: at this

time.

3.
Install the upper eye bracket

stud nut. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.

4.
Torque the stud bracket- to-

crossmember attaching bolt to specifi-

cation.
The
shock absorber upper
eye

stud
nut
must
be
tightened
to com-

press
the
rubber bushing before
the

stud bracket
is
bolted
to the

crossmember;
otherwise,
the
upper
at-

tachment could
be
loose
and
noisy.

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK 1(11

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the shock absorber at-

taching nut, washer and insulator

from the upper stud at the upper side

of the spring upper seat. Compress the

shock absorber to clear the hole in the

spring seat, and remove the inner in-

sulator and washer from the upper at-

taching stud.

3.
Remove the self-locking attach-

ing nut, and disconnect the shock ab-

sorber lower stud from the mounting

bracket on the rear axle housing (Fig.

4).

4.
Expel all air by performing step

3 On Vehicle Tests in Part 3-1.

5.
Place the inner washer and insu-

lator on the upper attaching stud, and

position the shock absorber so that

the upper attaching stud enters the

hole in the spring upper seat. While

holding the shock absorber in this po-

sition, install the outer insulator andprocarmanuals.com

Page 173 of 413


03-12-02
Wheels
And
Tires

03-12-02

LIFE GUARD TIRE

The Goodyear Power Cushion Tire

(available
on
Thunderbird, Lincoln

and Continental Mark
III
models)
fit-

ted with
the
Life Guard Safety Spare
provides
a
tire within
a
tire with
two

separate
air
chambers
(Fig.
3). If the

outer tire casing should
be
punctured

or otherwise damaged causing
it to go

flat,
the
Life Guard Safety Spare will

carry
the
load
of the
vehicle
and
will
allow driving
at
speeds
up to 40 mph

with good control
up to a
distance
of

40 miles.
A
Safety-Signal built into

the Life Guard tread produces
a
lope

or vibration indicating
the
outer tire

has lost pressure.

HUB AND ROTOR

ASSEMBLY
INNER

BEARING

CUP
GREASE

RETAINER

ADJUSTING

NUT

OUTER

BEARING

CONE
AND

ROLLER

INNER BEARING

CONE
AND

ROLLER

WHEEL

ASSEMBLY

F1416-A

F- 1380 •
A

FIG. 2—Front
Hub and
Rotor Bearing
and
Grease

Retainer Disc Brakes—Typical
FIG. 3—Life Guard Safety

Tire—Sectional View

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage
to
steering linkage compo-

nents
and
front suspension struts
may

occur
if
care
is
not
exercised when
po-

sitioning
the
hoist adapters
of 2
post

hoists prior
to
lifting
the
vehicle.

If
a 2
post hoist
is
used
to
lift
the

vehicle, place
the
adapters under
the

lower arms
or
the No. 1
crossmember.

Do
not
allow
the
adapters
to
contact

steering linkage.
If the
adapters
are

placed under
the
crossmember,
a
piece

of wood (2x4x16 inches) should
be

placed
on the
hoist channel between

the adapters. This will prevent
the

adapters from damaging
the
front
sus-

pension struts.

FRONT WHEEL BEARING

ADJUSTMENT

The front wheel bearings should
be

adjusted
if the
wheel
is
loose
on the

spindle
or if the
wheel does
not
rotate

freely.
The
following procedures will

bring
the
bearing adjustment
to
speci-

fication.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Raise
the
vehicle until
the
wheel

and tire clear
the
floor.
2.
Pry off the hub cap or
wheel

cover
and
remove
the
grease
cap (Fig.

1) from
the hu6.

3.
Wipe
the
excess grease from
the

end
of the
spindle,
and
remove
the

cotter
pin and nut
lock.

4.
While rotating
the
wheel,
hub,

and drum assembly, torque
the
adjust-

ing
nut to 17-25
ft-lbs
to
seat
the

bearings
(Fig.
4).

5.
Locate
the nut
lock
on the ad-

justing
nut so
that
the
castellations
on

the lock
are
aligned with
the
cotter

pin hole
in the
spindle.

6. Using
a 1
1/8-inch
box
wrench,

WITH WHEEL ROTATING

TORQUE ADJUSTING
NUT

TO 17-25 FT. LBS.
BACK ADJUSTING

NUT
OFF
1/2
TURN
back
off the
adjusting
nut one
half

turn. Retighten
the
adjusting
nut to

10-15 in-lbs with
a
torque wrench
or

finger tight.

7.
Position
the
lock
on the
adjust-

ing
nut and
install
a new
cotter
pin.

Bend
the
ends
of
the
cotter
pin
around

the castellated flange
of the nut
lock.

8. Check
the
front wheel rotation.

If
the
wheel rotates properly, install

the grease
cap and the hub cap or

wheel cover.
If the
wheel still rotates

roughly
or
noisily, clean, inspect
or

replace
the
bearings
and
cups
as re-

quired.

TIGHTEN ADJUSTING

NUT
TO
10-15 IN.-LBS.
INSTALL THE LOCK

AND
A
NEW COTTER
PIN

F1417-A

FIG. 4— Front Wheel Bearing Adjustmentprocarmanuals.com

Page 174 of 413


03-12-03

Wheels And Tires

03-12-03

DISC BRAKES

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clear the floor.

2.
Pry off the wheel cover and re-

move the grease cap (Fig. 2) from the

hub.

3.
Wipe the excess grease from the

end of the spindle, and remove the ad-

justing nut cotter pin and nut lock.

4.
Loosen the bearing adjusting nut

three turns. Then, rock the wheel,

hub,
and rotor assembly in and out

several times to push the shoe and lin-

ings away from the rotor.

5.
While rotating the wheel, hub,

and rotor assembly, torque the adjust-

ing nut to 17-25 ft-lbs to seat the

bearings (Fig. 4).

6. Back the adjusting nut off one

half turn. Then, retighten the adjust-

ing nut to 10-15 in-lbs with a torque

wrench or finger tight.

7.
Locate the nut lock on the ad-

justing nut so that the castellations on

the lock are aligned with the cotter

pin hole in the spindle.

8. Install a new cotter pin, and

bend the ends of the cotter pin around

the castellated flange of the nut lock.

9. Check the front wheel rotation.

If the wheel rotates properly, install

the grease cap and the hub cap or

wheel cover. If the wheel still rotates

roughly or noisily, clean or replace the

bearings and cups as required.

10.
Before driving the vehicle,
pump the brake pedal several times to

obtain normal brake lining to rotor

clearance and restore normal brake

pedal travel.

BALANCING LIFE

GUARD TIRE

Tires fitted with the Life Guard

Safety Spare are balanced in the same

manner as conventional tires. If an ex-

cessive out of balance condition exists

the following procedure can be used to

correct the condition:

1.
Remove the core housing and de-

flate both air chambers.

2.
Install the core housing.

3.
Unseat the beads of tire with the

bead breakers away from the valve

stem as shown in Fig. 5.

F 1383

FIG. 5—Breaking Top Bead of

Tire From Wheel Rim
4.
Rotate tire casing 90 degrees on

the wheel rim.

5.
Rotate the tire casing back and

forth on the rim to center the valve.

6. Inflate both chambers of the tire

following steps 13 through 15 of the

Tire Installation procedure.

7.
Balance the tire in the normal

manner.

CORRECTING VIBRATION

AND SHAKE-

LIFE GUARD TIRE

The condition of excessive vibration

and shake is generally the result of an

incorrect pressure relationship between

the inner and outer air chambers that

may cause the life guard to shift posi-

tion within the tire. The following

procedure should be used to correct

vibration and shake conditions:

1.
Check pressure of the inner and

outer air chambers on all four tires.

2.
If the inner chamber has at least

five psi more pressure than the outer

chamber the pressures should be ad-

justed and the tires rebalanced if nec-

essary.

3.
If the pressures of the inner and

outer air chambers are equal the Air

Container is leaking. To repair the

leaking air container the recommend-

ed procedures for the removal, repair

of air container, mounting, and bal-

ancing should be followed.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2x4x16 inches) should

be placed on the hoist channel be-

tween the adapters. This will prevent

the adapters from damaging the front

suspension struts.

WHEELS AND TIRES

WHEEL AND TIRE

REMOVAL

1.
Pry off the wheel hub cap or
wheel cover. Loosen but do not re-

move the wheel hub nuts.

2.
Raise the vehicle until the

wheel and tire clear the floor.

3.
Remove the wheel hub nuts

from the bolts, and pull the wheel

and tire from hub and drum.

F1424-
A

FIG.
6—Bead
Loosening Tool
REMOVING CONVENTIONAL

TIRE FROM WHEEL

The tire can be demounted on a

mounting machine. Be sure that the

outer side of the wheel is positioned

downward. If tire irons are used, fol-

low the procedure given here.

1.
Remove the valve cap and core,

and deflate the tire completely.

2.
With a bead loosening tool,

break loose the tire side walls from

the wheel (Fig. 6).

3.
Position the outer side of the

wheel downward, and insert two tire

irons about eight inches apart between

the tire inner bead and the back side

of the wheel rim. Use only tire irons

with rounded edges or irons designed

for removing tubeless tires.

4.
Leave one tire iron in position,

and pry the rest of the bead over the

rim with the other iron. Take small

bites with the iron around the tire inprocarmanuals.com

Page 175 of 413


03-12-04

Wheels And Tires

03-12-04

order to avoid damaging the sealing

surface of the tire bead.

5.
Stand the wheel and tire upright

with the tire outer bead in the drop

center well at the bottom of the wheel.

Insert the tire iron between the bead

and the edge of the wheel rim, and

pry the wheel out of the tire.

MOUNTING CONVENTIONAL

TIRE TO WHEEL

1.
If a used tire is being installed

remove all dirt from the tire.

If a tire is being mounted to the

original wheel, clean the rim with

emery cloth or fine steel wool. Check

the rim for dents.

If a new wheel is being installed,

coat a new valve with RUGLYDE or

similar rubber lubricant and position

the valve to the new wheel. Use a rub-

ber hammer or a valve replacing tool

to seat the valve firmly against the in-

side of the rim.

2.
Apply RUGLYDE or a similar

rubber lubricant to the sealing surface

on both tire beads. With the outer

side of the wheel down, pry the beads

over the wheel rim with two tire irons.

Do not use a hammer or mallet to

force the beads over the rim.

3.
Align the balance mark on the

tire with the valve on the wheel.

4.
Hold the beads against the rim

flanges by positioning a tire mounting

band over the tire (Fig. 7). If a

mounting band is not available, tie a

tourniquet of heavy cord around the

circumference and in the center of the

tire.
Tighten the cord with a tire iron.

Center the tire on the wheel with a

rubber mallet.

F1425- A

FIG. 7—Tubeless Tire

Mounting Band

5.
Give the tire a few quick bursts

of air to seat the beads properly, then

inflate the tire to 40 psi pressure.

Check to see that the bead positioning

rings (outer rings near the side walls)

are evenly visible just above the rim

flanges all the way around the tire. If

the rings are not even, deflate the tire

completely and inflate it again.

6. When the rings are properly po-

sitioned, deflate the tire to the recom-

mended pressure.
RUBBER VALVE HOUSING

AIR CONTAINER

VALVE STEM

Ilk-
VALVE GROOVES

F 1382 . A

FIG. 8—Core Housing Disassembled

REMOVING LIFE GUARD

TIRE FROM WHEEL

1.
Mark the valve stem location on

the tire sidewall.

2.
Remove the core housing (Fig. 8)

and deflate both air chambers.

3.
Unseat the beads of the tire with

the bead breakers working away from

the valve stem (Fig. 5).

4.
Starting at the valve stem, work

the top bead of the tire over the rim

of the wheel.

5.
Pull the air container valve stem

out of the rubber valve housing (Fig.

9).

F 1384- A

FIG. 9—Removing Air Container

Valve Stem

6. Remove the air container before

attempting to remove the tire from the

wheel.

7.
Lift the lower bead over the

wheel rim to remove the tire.

8. Remove the rubber valve housing

from the wheel rim.

INSTALLING LIFE GUARD

TIRE ON WHEEL

1.
Apply Silicone Lubricant

(COAZ-19553-A) as the anti-friction

treatment uniformly over the crown

and shoulder area inside the tire or

outside the life guard.

2.
Fold the life guard as shown in

Fig. 10.
1385-
A

FIG. 70—Folding Life Guard

For Installation In Tire

3.
Insert life guard into tire casing.

4.
Install a new rubber valve hous-

ing on the air container valve stem

and thread the core housing into

place. It is not necessary to install a

new core housing.

5.
Insert air container into the life

guard with the valve grooves to the

outboard side of the tire. Place the

valve at the valve stem location

marked on the sidewall during remov-

al as shown in Fig. 11.

F 1386 • A

FIG.
7
7—Aligning Valve With

Reference Mark on Tire

6. Apply a soap solution to the

beads and the rubber valve housing.

7.
Place the wheel on the mounting

machine with the valve hole away

from bead breakers. Remove all burrsprocarmanuals.com

Page 176 of 413


03-12-05
Wheels
And
Tires

03-12-05

and sharp edges from valve hole
in

rim.

8. Mount first tire bead exercising

care
not to
pinch
air
container.

9. Start valve through hole
in rim.

Do
not
pull valve housing into place

at this time.

10.
Mount
the
second bead starting

just past
the
valve
so the
last portion

of
the
bead goes over
the rim at the

valve.

11.
Rotate
the
tire back
and
forth

to center
the
valve housing.

12.
Pull
the
valve housing into

place. Make certain that
the
rubber

valve ridge
is
visible around
thi
valve

housing
(Fig.
12).

13.
Tighten
the
core housing lightly

using pliers.

14.
Thread
the
Inflate-Chek adapt-

er onto
the
core housing.
15.
Inflate
the
inner chamber
to

seat
the
tire beads exercising care
not

to exceed
45 psi
pressure. Adjust this

inner chamber
air
pressure
to 15 psi

higher than
the
recommended tire

pressure.

F 1387
- A

FIG. 12—Valve Installation
16.
Remove
the
Inflate-Chek

adapter
and
adjust tire (outer cham-

ber) pressure
to the
recommended

pressure.

17.
Recheck inner chamber pres-

sure.

18.
Install valve
cap.

WHEEL
AND
TIRE

INSTALLATION

1.
Clean
all
dirt from
the hub and

drum.

2.
Position
the
wheel
and
tire
on

the
hub and
drum. Install
the
wheel

hub nuts
and
tighten them alternately

to draw
the
wheel evenly against
the

hub
and
drum.

3.
Lower
the
vehicle
to the
floor,

and torque
the hub
nuts
to
specifica-

tion.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage
to
steering linkage compo-

nents
and
front suspension struts
may

occur
if
care
is
not
exercised when
po-

sitioning
the
hoist adapters
of 2
post

hoists prior
to
lifting
the
vehicle.

If
a 2
post hoist
is
used
to
lift
the

vehicle, place
the
adapters under
the

lower arms
or the
No.
1
crossmember.

Do
not
allow
the
adapters
to
contact

the steering linkage.
If the
adapters

are placed under
the
crossmember,
a

piece
of
wood (2x4x16 inches) should

be placed
on the
hoist channel
be-

tween
the
adapters. This will prevent

the adapters from damaging
the
front

suspension struts.

FRONT WHEEL GREASE

SEAL
AND
BEARING

REPLACEMENT AND/OR

REPACKING

If bearing adjustment will
not
elimi-

nate looseness
or
rough
and
noisy
op-

eration,
the hub and
bearings should

be cleaned, inspected,
and
repacked

with specified wheel grease.
If the

bearing cups
or the
cone
and
roller

assemblies
are
worn
or
damaged, they

should
be
replaced.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Raise
the
vehicle until
the
wheel

and tire clear
the
floor.

2.
Remove
the
wheel cover
or hub
cap.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the

hub.
Remove
the
cotter
pin,
nut
lock,

adjusting
nut, and
flat washer from

the spindjej, Remove
the
outer bearing

cone
and
roller assembly
(Fig.
1).

3.
Pull
the
wheel,
hub, and
drum

assembly
off the
wheel spindle.

4.
Remove
and
discard
the
grease

retainer. Remove
the
inner bearing

Too/-T69L-J102-A

F1476-A

FIG. 13—Removing Front Wheel

Bearing Cup—Except Lincoln

Continental
cone
and
roller assembly from
the hub

with Tool 1175AE.

5.
Clean
the
lubricant
off the
inner

and outer bearing cups with solvent

and inspect
the
cups
for
scratches,

pits,
excessive wear,
and
other
dam-

age.
If
the
cups
are
worn
or
damaged,

remove them with Tool T69L-1102-A

(Fig.
13).

6. Thoroughly clean
the
inner
and

outer bearing cone
and
roller assem-

blies with solvent
and dry
them thor-

oughly.
Do not
spin
the
bearings with

compressed
air.

Inspect
the
cone
and
roller assem-

blies
for
wear
or
damage,
and
replace

them
if
necessary.
The
cone
and
roller

assemblies
and the
bearing cups

should
be
replaced
as a
unit
if
damage

to either
is
encountered.

7. Thoroughly clean
the
spindle
and

the inside
of the hub
with solvent
to

remove
all old
lubricant.

Cover
the
spindle with
a
clean

cloth,
and
brush
all
loose dust
and

dirt from
the
brake assembly.
To
pre-

vent getting dirt
on the
spindle, care-

fully remove
the
cloth from
the

spindle.

8.
If the
inner and/or outer bearing

cup(s) were removed, install
the re-

placement cup(s)
in the hub
with
the

tool shown
in Fig.
14.
Be
sure
to
seat

the cups properly
in the hub.

9. Pack
the
inside
of the hub
with

specified wheel bearing grease.
Add

lubricant
to the hub
only until
the

grease
is
flush with
the
inside diame-

ter
of
both bearing cups
(Fig.
15).procarmanuals.com

Page:   1-10 11-20 next >