seat adjustment FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-01-04
Brakes

02-01-04

ft-lb breakaway torque.
The
breaka-

way torque
is the
torque required
to

turn
the
rear wheels
the
direction
of

forward rotation with
a
torque wrench

and tool shown
in Fig. 5. The
torque

measurement must
be
made relative
to

the center line
of the
wheel.

4.
Release
the
parking brake,
and

check
to
make sure that
the
brake

shoes return
to the
fully released posi-

tion.

5.
Depress
the
parking brake pedal

to
the
third notch. Under normal
con-

ditions, this will hold
the
vehicle satis-

factorily.

6. Release
the
parking brake again,

and check
as in
step
4.

7.
If the
rear brakes
do not
fully

release, check
the
cables
for
kinks
or

binds.
Free
the
cables
as
required.

8. Lower
the
vehicle. Remove
the

torque wrench
and
tool. Install
the

wheel attaching nuts
and
torque them

to specification. Install
the
wheel

cover.

RETAINER-*^ REAR WHEEL

(CABLE ASSEMBLY

EQUALIZER
NUT

PARKING

BRAKE CABLE

AND CONDUIT

ASSEMBLY-2853
SPRING-2A651

SPRING SEAT-2A616
JAM NUT

H1631-A

FIG. 4—Parking Brake Linkage

Adjustment—Fairlane, Montego,

Falcon,
Mustang
and
Cougar
THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK
III,

AND LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL

Check
the
parking brake cables

when
the
brakes
are
fully released.
If

the cables
are
loose, adjust them
as

follows:

1.
Fully release
the
parking brake

pedal
by
pushing down
the
manual
re-

lease lever.

2.
Depress
the
parking brake pedal

1
1/4
inch from
its
normal released

position.

3.
Raise
the
vehicle with
the
trans-

mission
in
neutral.

4.
Loosen
the
lock
nut and
turn
the

adjusting
nut
forward against
the

equalizer (Figs.
3 and 6)
until there
is

100 ft-lbs breakaway torque.
The

breakaway torque
is the
torque
re-

quired
to
turn
the
rear wheels
the di-

rection
of
forward rotation with
a tor-

que wrench
and
tool shown
in Fig. 5.

The torque measurement must
be

made relative
to the
centerline
of the

wheel. Tighten
the
lock
nut.

5.
Release
the
parking brake,
and

check
to
make sure that
the
brake

shoes return
to the
fully released posi-

tion.

6. Depress
the
parking brake pedal

until
it is
fully engaged.

7.
Release
the
parking brake again,

and check
as in
step
5.

8. Depress
the
pedal
1/2
inch.
The

brakes should
not
drag.

9.
If the
rear brakes
do not
fully

release, check
the
cables
for
kinks
or

binds.
Free
the
cables
as
required.

10.
Lower
the
vehicle. Remove
the

torque wrench
and
tool. Install
the

wheel attaching nuts
and
torque them

to specification. Install
the
wheel

cover.

Tool-T59L
4204-A,

T65K
4204-A,

T66L-4204-A,

OR

Tool-4421UA

E1897-A
POWER BRAKE MASTER

CYLINDER PUSH
ROD

ADJUSTMENT

The push
rod is
provided with
an

adjustment screw
to
maintain
the cor-

rect relationship between
the
booster

control valve plunger
and the
master

cylinder.
If the
plunger
is too
long
it

will prevent
the
master cylinder piston

from completely releasing hydraulic

pressure
and can
cause
the
brakes
to

drag.
If the
plunger
is too
short
it
will

result
in
excess pedal travel
and an

undesirable clunk
in the
booster area.

The adjustment screw
is set to the

correct height
at the
time
of
original

assembly
of the
power unit. Under

normal service
the
adjustment screw

does
not
require
any
further attention

providing
the
original push
rod
assem-

bly remains
in the
original unit.

If
a
check
of the
push
rod
adjust-

ment
is
necessary,
the
push
rod
length

may
be
verified with
a
push
rod
length

gauge
and
measured with
the
engine

running
to
apply vacuum
to the
boost-

er (Fig.
7).

The push
rod
length verification
and

adjustment
of
Midland-Ross power

brake booster assemblies must
be

done according
to the
following proce-

dure:

REAR WHEEL ADJUSTING NUT

CABLES

EQUALIZER

SPRING

CABLE ASSEMBLY H1632-A

FIG. 6—Parking Brake Linkage

Adjustment—Lincoln Continental

FIG. 5—Checking Parking Brake Breakaway Torque
#16
U.J

\

0.980"

0.995"

FIG. 7—Push

Dimensions
>.S. GAUGE SHEET

i

1
STEEL

H1087-E

Rod Gaugeprocarmanuals.com

02-01-05
Brakes

02-01-05

1.
Disconnect the master cylinder

from the booster assembly and secure

away from the booster without discon-

necting the brake tubes.

2.
Reinstall the air filter assembly

on the booster if it was removed with

the master cylinder (Fig. 8).

3.
Install and tighten the master

cylinder retaining nuts to retain the

air filter assembly securely against the

booster body and to seal the booster

bellows against air leaks.

4.
Place the gauge against the

master cylinder mounting surface of

the air filter assembly.

5.
Adjust the push rod screw to

provide a slight tension against the

inner edge of the adjustment gauge

slot. (Approximately 5 pounds of ten-

sion against the push rod is required

to assure that the push rod is firmly

seated in the booster assembly.)

6. Remove the retaining nuts from

the booster master cylinder mounting

studs.

7.
Install the master cylinder on the

brake booster and tighten the retain-

ing nuts to the specified torque.

The push rod length verification of

the Bendix power brake booster

assemblies is accomplished as follows:

1.
Disconnect the master cylinder

from the booster assembly and secure

away from the booster without discon-

necting the brake tubes.

2.
Adjust the push rod screw to

provide a slight tension against the

inner edge of the adjustment gauge

slot. (Approximately 5 pounds of ten-
sion against the push rod is required

to assure that the push rod is firmly

seated in the booster assembly.) See

Figure 8.

3.
Install the master cylinder on the

brake booster and tighten the retain-

ing nuts to the specified torque.

Do not set up side forces on the

push rod as it may break the valve

plunger.

This is an approximate adjustment

only. To verify the adjustment, look

through the make-up (rear) port of the

master cylinder when installing the

master cylinder to the booster. The

master cylinder piston should not

move more than 0.015 inch as it con-

tacts the push rod. No movement

(exact contact) is ideal.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

AND CENTRALIZING OF THE

DIFFERENTIAL VALVE

When any part of the hydraulic sys-

tem has been disconnected for repair

or replacement, air may enter the sys-

tem and cause spongy pedal action.

Bleed the hydraulic system after it has

been properly connected, to be sure

that all air is expelled.

MANUAL BLEEDING

The Lincoln Continental hydraulic

brake system is to be bled only with

pressure bleeding equipment.

The primary and secondary (front

MANIFOLD CHECK VALVE-2365 19-25 IN. LB.

TIGHTEN RETAINING NUTS

TO SECURE AIR FILTER

AGAINST BOOSTER BODY

AND BELLOWS

ADJUST PUSH ROD SCREW TO

PROVIDE A SLIGHT TENSION

(APPROXIMATELY 5 LBS.)

AGAINST THE GAUGE

PUSH ROD GAUGE
and rear) hydraulic brake systems are

individual systems and are bled separ-

ately. Bleed the longest line first on

the individual system being serviced.

During the complete bleeding opera-

tion,
DO NOT allow the reservoir to

run dry. Keep the master cylinder res-

ervoirs filled with Ford Fluid—Extra

Heavy Duty — Part Number C6AZ-

19542-A (ESA-M6C 25-A). The extra

heavy duty brake fluid is colored blue

for identification purposes. Do not

mix low temperature brake fluids with

the specified fluid during the bleeding

operations. Never re-use brake fluid

which has been drained from the hy-

draulic systems.

1.
If the master cylinder is

equipped with a bleed screw, loosen

the bleed screw. Push the brake pedal

down slowly through its full travel.

Close the bleeder fitting and return

the pedal to the fully released posi-

tion. Repeat this operation until fluid

is free of air bubbles, then tighten the

bleeder screw. Do not use the second-

ary piston stop screw, located on the

bottom of the master cylinder to bleed

the brake system. Loosening or re-

moving this screw could result in dam-

age to the secondary piston or stop

screw.

2.
To bleed the secondary (rear)

brake system, position a suitable 3/8

inch box wrench (Fig. 9) on the bleed-

er fitting on the brake wheel cylinder.

Attach a rubber drain tube to the

bleeder fitting. The end of the tube

should fit snugly around the bleeder

fitting.

APPROXIMATELY 45°

PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT-MIDLAND-ROSS

FIG. 8—Brake Booster Push Rod Measurement
PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT-BENDIX

H1589-A
H1300-B

. 9—Wrench for Bleeding

Brake Hydraulic System

3.
Submerge the free end of the

tube in a container partially filled with

clean brake fluid, and loosen the

bleeder fitting approximately 3/4 turn.

4.
Push the brake pedal down slow-

ly through its full travel. Close the

bleeder fitting, then return the pedal

to the full-released position. Repeat

this operation until air bubbles cease

to appear at the submerged end of the

bleeder tube.

5.
When the fluid is completely free

of air bubbles, close the bleeder fitting

and remove the bleeder tube.

6. Repeat this procedure at the

brake wheel cylinder on the oppositeprocarmanuals.com

02-02-10
Brake System

02-02-10

brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking

brake lever (Fig. 8).

4.
Install the shoe guide (anchor

pin) plate on the anchor pin when so

equipped.

5.
Place the cable eye over the an-

chor pin with the crimped side toward

the backing plate.

6. Install the primary shoe to an-

chor spring (Fig. 15).

H1391-A

FIG. 75—Retracting Spring

Installation

7.
Install the cable guide on the

secondary shoe web with the flanged

hole fitted into the hole in the second-

ary shoe web. Thread the cable

around the cable guide groove (Fig.

8).

It
is
imperative that
the
cable
be

positioned
in
this groove
and not be-

tween
the
guide
and the
shoe
web.

8.
Install the secondary shoe to an-

chor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 15.

Be certain that
the
cable
eye is not

cocked
or
binding
on the
anchor
pin

when installed.
All
parts should
be
flat

on
the
anchor
pin.
Remove
the
brake

cylinder clamp.

9. Apply high-temperature grease

(MIC-100-A) to the threads and the

socket end of the adjusting screw.

Turn the adjusting screw into the ad-

justing pivot nut to the limit of the

threads and then back off 1/2 turn.

Interchanging
the
brake shoe
ad-

justing screw assemblies from
one
side

of
the
vehicle
to the
other would cause

the brake shoes
to
retract rather than

expand each time
the
automatic
ad-

justing mechanism operated.
To pre-

vent installation on the wrong side of

the vehicle, the socket end of the ad-

justing screw is stamped with an R or

L (Fig. 16). The adjusting pivot nuts

can be distinguished by the number of

grooves machined around the body of

the nut. Two grooves on the nut indi-

cate a right thread; one groove indi-

cates a left thread.
10.
Place the adjusting socket on

the screw and install this assembly be-

tween the shoe ends with the adjusting

screw toothed wheel nearest the sec-

ondary shoe.

11.
Hook the cable hook into the

hole in the adjusting lever. The adjust-

ing levers are stamped with an R or L

to indicate their installation on right

or left brake assembly (Fig. 16).

12.
Position the hooked end of the

ADJUSTING LEVER

IDENTIFICATION LINES

H1143-C

FIG. 16—Adjusting Screw
and

Lever Identification

adjuster spring completely into the

large hole in the primary shoe web.

The last coil of the spring should be at

the edge of the hole. Connect the loop

end of the spring to the adjuster lever

hole.

13.
Pull the adjuster lever, cable

and automatic adjuster spring down

and toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the sec-

ondary shoe web (Fig. 8).

14.
After installation, check the ac-

tion of the adjuster by pulling the sec-

tion of the cable between the cable

guide and the anchor pin toward the

secondary shoe web far enough to lift

the lever past a tooth on the adjusting

screw wheel. The lever should snap

into position behind the next tooth,

and release of the cable should cause

the adjuster spring to return the lever

to its original position. This return ac-

tion of the lever will turn the adjusting

screw.one tooth.

If pulling the cable does not pro-

duce the action described, or if the

lever action is sluggish instead of posi-

tive and sharp, check the position of

the lever on the adjusting screw

toothed wheel. With the brake in a

vertical position (anchor at the top),

the lever should contact the adjusting

wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32

inch) above the centerline of the

screw. If the contact point is below

this centerline, the lever will not lock

on the teeth in the adjusting screw

wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.

To determine the cause of this con-

dition:

a. Check the cable end fittings. The

cable should completely fill or extend

slightly beyond the crimped section of

the fittings. If it does not meet this

specification, possible damage is indi-

cated and the cable assembly should

be replaced.

b.
Check the cable length. On

Ford, Mercury, Meteor, Thunderbird,

Continental Mark III, and Lincoln

Continental models, the cable should

measure 11 1/8 inches (plus or minus

1/64 inch) from the end of the cable

anchor to the end of the cable hook.

On Fairlane, Montego, Falcon,

Mustang, and Cougar models the

cable should measure 8 13/32 inches

on 9 inch brakes or 9 3/4 inches on

10 inch brakes from the end of the

cable anchor to the end of the cable

hook.

c. Check the cable guide for dam-

age.
The cable groove should be paral-

lel to the shoe web, and the body of

the guide should lie flat against the

web.
Replace the guide if it shows

damage.

d. Check the pivot hook on the

lever. The hook surfaces should be

square with the body of the lever for

proper pivoting. Replace the lever if

the hook shows damage.

e. See that the adjusting; screw

socket is properly seated in the notch

in the shoe web.

WHEEL CYLINDER

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL '

1.
Remove the wheel and the drum.

2.
Remove the brake shoe assem-

blies,
following procedures outlined in

this section.

3.
Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder Figs. 17 thru 21.

On
a
vehicle with
a
vacuum brake

booster,
be
sure
the
engine
is
stopped

and there
is no
vacuum
in the
booster

system before disconnecting
the hy-

draulic lines.

To disconnect the hose at a front

cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that

connects the opposite end of the hose

to the brake tube at a bracket on the

frame. Remove the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip from the hose and brack-

et, disengage the hose from the brack-

et, then unscrew the entire hose as-

sembly from the front wheel cylinder.

At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tubeprocarmanuals.com

02-02-19
Brake System

02-02-19

that the tabs on the shoe flanges seat

fully against the caliper bridges (Fig.

25).

2.
Install the caliper splash shield

and secure the shield to the caliper

with two retaining bolts (Fig. 4).

3.
Pump the brake pedal several

times until a firm pedal is obtained

and the shoe and lining assemblies are

properly seated.

4.
Install the wheel and tire assem-

bly on the hub and rotor assembly.

5.
Check and refill the master cyl-

inder reservoir with specified brake

fluid as required.

6. Road test the car.

It should not be necessary to bleed

the system after a shoe and lining re-

placement.

FRONT WHEEL HUB AND

ROTOR ASSEMBLY-

DISC BRAKES

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the wheel and tire from

the hub (Figs. 23 and 24). Be careful

to avoid damage or interference with

the bleeder screw fitting. On Lincoln

Continental models be careful to avoid

damage to the caliper splash shield or

transfer tube.

2.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the spindle and the rotor. If the

caliper does not require servicing, it is

not necessary to disconnect the brake

hose or remove the caliper from the

vehicle. Position the caliper out of the

way, and support it with a wire to

avoid damaging the caliper or stretch-

ing the hose. Insert a clean cardboard

spacer between the linings to prevent

the piston from coming out of the cyl-

inder bore while the caliper is re-

moved.

Handle the rotor and caliper assem-

blies in such a way as to avoid defor-

mation of the rotor and nicking,

scratching or contamination of the

brake linings.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly.

4.
Remove the hub and rotor as-

sembly from the spindle.

INSTALLATION

1.
If the rotor is being replaced, re-

move the protective coating from the

new rotor with carburetor degreaser.

Pack a new set of bearings with speci-
fied grease (M-1C75B), and install the

inner bearing cone and roller assembly

in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly

between the lips of a new grease seal

and install the seal (Figs. 23 and 24).

If the original rotor is being in-

stalled, make sure that the grease in

the hub is clean and adequate, that

the inner bearing and grease seal are

lubricated and in good condition, and

that the rotor braking surfaces are

clean.

2.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly on the spindle.

3.
Lubricate and install the outer

wheel bearing, washer and adjusting

nut.

4.
Adjust the wheel bearings to

specification, and then install the nut

lock, cotter pin, and grease cap. The

wheel bearing adjustment is especially

important with disc brakes.

5. Mount the caliper assembly on

the spindle following the Disc Brake

Caliper Assembly Installation proce-

dure in this section.

DISC BRAKE ROTOR

SPLASH SHIELD

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the caliper and the hub

and rotor assembly as outlined under
Removal in the foregoing procedure

(it is not necessary to disconnect hy-

draulic connections).

2.
Remove the three bolts that at-

tach the splash shield to the spindle,

and remove the shield (Figs. 23 and

24).

3.
Remove and discard the splash

shield to spindle gasket.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install a new splash shield to

spindle gasket.

2.
If the shield is bent, straighten it

out before installation. Position the

shield to the mounting bracket, install

the attaching bolts, nuts and torque

them to specification.

3.
Install the hub and rotor assem-

bly and the caliper as outlined under

Installation in the foregoing proce-

dure.

DUAL MASTER CYLINDER—

NON POWER BRAKES

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 26.

BUSHING

HAIRPIN

RETAINER

BUSHING

STOPLIGHT SWITCH

13480
HI 637-A

FIG. 26—Dual Master Cylinder Installation— Non Power Brakes

Ford,
Mercury, and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-02

1 TESTING

POWER STEERING-

PRELIMINARY TESTS

The following preliminary checks

should always be made before per-

forming any operations.

AIR BLEEDING

Air in the power steering system

(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should

be bled. After making sure that the

reservoir is filled to specification (the

fluid must be at normal operating

temperature when the check is made),

turn the steering wheel through its full

travel three or four times. Do not hold

the wheels against their stops. Re-

check the fluid level.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Run the engine until the fluid is at

normal operating temperature. Then

turn the steering wheel all the way to

the left and right several times, and

shut off the engine.

Check the fluid level in the power

steering reservoir. The level must show

on the cross hatching between the bot-

tom of the dipstick and the full mark

(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add

enough automatic transmission fluid

C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to

the F mark on the dipstick. Do not

overfill the reservoir.

CHECK PUMP BELT

If the pump belt is broken, glazed,

or worn, replace it with a new belt.

Use only the specified type of belt.

Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment

procedure.

CHECK FOR FLUID

LEAKS

With the engine idling, turn the

steering wheel from stop to stop sever-

al times. Check all possible leakage

points. Tighten all loose fittings, and

replace any damaged lines or defective

seats.

CHECK TURNING EFFORT

With the front wheels properly al-

igned and tire pressures correct, check

the effort required to turn the steering

wheel.
G 1508- A

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump

Dipstick

1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,

set the parking brakes.

2.
With the engine warmed up and

running at idle speed, turn the steering

wheel to the left and right several

times to warm the fluid.

3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of

the steering wheel. Measure the pull

required to turn the wheel one com-

plete revolution in each direction. The

effort required to rotate the steering

wheel should not exceed specifications

given in Part 3-13.

POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW

AND PRESSURE TESTS—

EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

AND CONTINENTAL MARK III

The power steering flow and pres-

sure tests will show whether the pump,

steering gear or power assist control

RETURN LINE

POWER

STEERING PUMP

Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-

lined below should be followed to de-

termine the cause of the trouble.

PUMP FLOW TEST

1.
Depending on the equipment

present on the vehicle (air condition-

ing, power brakes, standard transmis-

sion),
one of the following options

may be used to connect the pump

pressure and return hoses to the test

tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-

33610-A):

a. Disconnect the pressure and re-

turn lines at the power steering pump

(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-

turn hose from stock and connect the

end with the fitting to the output fit-

ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE

female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting

provided. The end of the stock hose

(without the fitting) should be con-

nected to the return tube of the pump.

Connect the pressure hose from the

tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.

b.
Disconnect the pressure line at

the pump and connect the pressure

line from the test tool to the outlet fit-

ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-

turn line at the gear and connect it to

the output fitting of the tool, using the

5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread

male fitting provided.

2.
After installing the lines by the

most advantageous method, proceed

as follows:

3.
Open the manual valves A and B

fully (Fig. 2).

CALIBRATED FLOW

DETERMINING ORIFICE

PRESSURE LINE

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE

G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-02-08
Suspension

03-02-08

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)

should be placed on the hoist channel

between the adapters. This will pre-

vent the adapters from damaging the

front suspension struts.

UPPER BALL JOINT

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to

provide working space, and place a

support under the lower arm. If a

chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-

row contact pad is to be used on the

bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute

the load along the bumper by using a

steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-

tact pad to prevent damaging the

bumper.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through

each upper ball joint retaining rivet.

Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.

4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-

sion bumper.

5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

6. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.

The tools should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the lower stud nut.

7.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, with a

hammer, tap the spindle near the

upper stud to loosen the stud from the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove the ball

joint.

8. Clean the end of the arm, and

remove all burrs from the hole edges.

Check for cracks in the metal at the

holes,
and replace the arm if it is

cracked.
F1436-A

FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball

Joints—Typical

9. Attach the new ball joint to the

upper arm. Use only the specified

bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new

ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts

to specification.

10 Install the upper arm suspension

bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in

the spindle bore, and torque the at-

taching nut to specification. Install a

new cotter pin.

12.
Install the wheel and tire.

13.
Remove the safety stands, and

lower the vehicle.

14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust

caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever

any part of the front suspension has

been removed and installed, front

wheel alignment must be checked.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Position a support between the

upper arm and frame side rail as

shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the

vehicle and position safety stands.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

4.
Position the ball joint remover

tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool

should seat firmly against the ends of

both studs, and not against the lower

stud nut. It may be necessary to re-

move the lower ball joint cotter pin if

it prevents the tool from seating on

the lower stud.

5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until

both studs are under tension, and

then, with a hammer, tap the spindle

near the upper stud to loosen the stud

F 1496-A

FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-02-12
Suspension

03-02-12

ECCENTRIC

WASHER

F1504-A

FIG. 76 —Measuring Pinion Angle

specification whenever the rear axle

has been removed.

Before checking the drive shaft pin-

ion angle, alignment height spacer

(Tool T65P-3OOO-B or C) must be in-

stalled at a height of 4.30 inches (Fig.

14).

Checking Procedure

The checking and adjusting proce-

dure must be done with the weight of

the vehicle on the front and rear sus-

pension.
UPPER ARM

KET

ECCENTRIC

WASHER

AXLE HOUSING

E1761-A

FIG.
17
—
Pinion
Angle Adjustment

1.
Position the magnetized Tool

T68P-4602-A on a U-joint bearing

cap as shown in Fig. 15.

2.
With the tool suspended straight

down and the adjusting screw to the

left, adjust the dial on the tool until

the left-hand edge of the bubble is ex-

actly on the zero line.

3.
Position the vee magnet on the

drive shaft away from welds and bal-

ance weights (Fig. 15).

4.
Position the magnetized tool

(T68P-4602-A) on the vee magnet

with the adjusting screw to the left in

the same relative position as it was on

the bearing cap (Fig. 16).

5.
Read the position of the bubbles

left-hand edge on the scale to deter-

mine the drive shaft pinion angle. The

reading should be 3 1/2 degrees plus 1
degree on Ford, Mercury or Meteor

models, 7 1/4 degrees plus 3/4 degree

on Thunderbird or Continental Mark

III models.

Adjustment

If the pinion angle is not within

specifications, adjust the pinion angle

as follows:

The upper arm-to-axle housing bolt

and two eccentric washers form an ad-

justing cam mechanism (Fig. 17)

which will tilt the axle housing to the

required angle.

1.
Loosen the upper arm pivot bolt

nuts.

2.
If the angle is less than specifica-

tions,
rotate the adjusting cam for-

ward and recheck the angle. If the

angle is more than specification, ro-

tate the adjusting cam rearward and

recheck the angle.

3.
When the axle housing is adjust-

ed in such a way that the drive shaft

angle reading is within specification,

install new pivot bolt nuts and torque

to specification (Fig. 17).

4.
Lower the vehicle and road test

for proper axle operation.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)

should be placed on the hoist channel

between the adapters. This will pre-

vent the adapters from damaging the

front suspension struts.
FRONT SPRING

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK HI

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle and support the

front end of the frame with jack

stands.

2.
Place a jack under the lower arm

to support it.

3.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber from the lower arm.

4.
Remove the bolts that attach the

strut and the rebound bumper to the

lower arm.
5.
Disconnect the lower end of the

sway bar stud from the lower arm.

6. Remove the nut and bolt that se-

cures the inner end of the lower arm

to the crossmember.

7.
Carefully lower the jack slowly

to relieve the spring pressure on the

lower arm, then remove the spring

(Fig. 18).

Installation

1.
Position the spring on the lower

arm so that the lower end properly

engages the seat.

2.
Raise the lower arm carefully

with a jack while guiding the inner

end to align with the bolt hole in the

crossmember. Insert the attaching bolt

in the rear of the crossmember andprocarmanuals.com

03-02-17
Suspension

03-02-17

BOLT

REAR
ADJUSTMENT
5A486

NUT

BUSHING
OUTER
SLEEVE

3A187 3B282

CASTELLATED
FRONT
ADJUSTMENT

NUT
NUT
LOWER BALL JOINT

3042

F
1152-
E

FIG.
25—
Front
Suspension Assembly

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1.
Position a support between the

upper arm and side rail as shown in

Figs.
8 and 9).

2.
Raise the vehicle, position safety

stands,
and remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the stabilizer bar and

link attaching nut. Disconnect the bar

from the link, and remove the link

bolt

4.
Remove the strut to lower arm

attaching nuts and bolts.

5.
Remove the cotter pin from the

nut on the lower ball joint stud, and

loosen the nut one or two turns. Do

not
remove the nut from the stud at

this
time.

6.
Straighten the cotter pin on the

upper ball joint stud nut. Position the

ball joint remover tool between the

upper and lower ball joint studs in the

reverse position from that shown in

Fig.
10. The tool should seat firmly

against the ends of both studs and not

against the stud nuts.

7.
Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension, and hit the spindle
near the lower stud smartly with a

hammer to break the stud loose in the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud in the

spindle with tool pressure only. If

both arms are being removed, loosen

the upper stud in the same manner as

the lower stud.

8. Remove the nut from the lower

ball joint stud, and lower the arm.

9. Remove the lower arm to under-

body pivot bolt, nut and washer. Re-

move the lower arm.

Installation

1.
Position the lower arm to the

underbody bracket and install the

pivot bolt, washer, and nut loosely.

2.
Raise the lower arm, guide the

lower ball joint stud into the spindle

bore,
and install the stud attaching

nut loosely.

3.
Install the stabilizer link bolt,

washers,
bushings and spacer. Connect

the stabilizer bar to the link. Install

the attaching nut and torque to speci-

fications (Fig. 25).

4.
Position the strut to the lower

arm. Install the attaching bolts and

nuts,
and torque to specification.

5.
Torque the lower ball joint stud

nut to specification, continue to tight-

en the nut until the cotter pin hole

and slots are aligned, and install a

new cotter pin.
6. Torque the lower arm- to

underbody pivot bolt and nut to speci-

fication.

7.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the vehicle.

8. Remove the support from be-

tween the upper arm and frame.

9.
Check and, if necessary, adjust

caster, camber, and toe-in.

FRONT
SUSPENSION

UPPER
ARM

FORD,
MERCURY,

METEOR,
THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL
MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

position safety stands under both sides

of the frame just back of the lower

arm.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—remove the wheel and tire

and brake drum as an assembly (Part

3-12).

4.
If equipped with disc brakes—re-

move the wheel and tire from the hub.procarmanuals.com

03-02-19

Suspension

03-02-19

6. Raise the upper arm to free the

ball joint stud from the spindle. Wire

the upper end of the spindle to the un-

derbody to prevent damage to the

brake hose.

7.
Mark the position of the upper

arm shaft on the underbody member

to facilitate making caster and camber

adjustments after installation of the

upper arm.

8. Remove the suspension upper

arm-to-underbody attaching bolts,

lock washers, and attaching nuts.

Then, remove the upper arm.

Installation

1.
Position the upper arm shaft on

the underbody member. Line up the

shaft with the marks made before re-

moval of the arm.

2.
Install the attaching bolts and

lock washers. FABRICATE A

TOOL, AS SHOWN IN Fig. 27, to

hold the nut in place while starting the

attaching bolt into the nut. Remove

the tool; then, tighten the attaching

bolts to specification.

3.
Guide the ball joint stud into the

spindle. Install the attaching nut and

torque it to specification. Continue

tightening the nut to line up the cotter

pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.

4.
Install the wheel and tire, and

torque the wheel lug nuts to specifica-

tion.

5.
With the front end weight of the

car on the wheels, torque the bolts at

the ends of the upper arm shaft to

specification if the bushings were re-

placed.

6. Check the front wheel alignment.

FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle until the front

wheel clears the floor, and place a

support under the frame.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—remove the wheel and tire

and brake drum as an assembly (Part

3-12). Remove the brake backing

plate attaching bolts and remove the

backing plate from the spindle. Wire

the backing plate to the underbody to

prevent damage to the brake hose.
1/16" GAUGE
-*.

STEEL (REFERENCE)

—3/16'
3/8'

1/2" DIAMETER PLUG WELD

F 1501-A

FIG. 27 -Upper Arm Shaft Installing Tool

4.
If equipped with disc brakes—re-

move the wheel and tire from the hub.

Remove 2 bolts and washers retaining

the caliper and brake hose to the

spindle. Remove the caliper from the

rotor and wire it to the underbody to

prevent damage to the brake hose.

Then, remove the hub and rotor from

the spindle (Part 3-12). Remove 3

bolts attaching the splash shield to the

spindle and remove the splash shield.

5.
Remove the steering connecting

rod from the spindle arm with tool

OTC462.

6. Remove the cotter pins from

both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen

the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-

move the nuts from the studs at this

time.

7.
Install the ball joint remover tool

between the upper and lower ball joint

studs (Fig. 7). The tool sho.uld seat

firmly against the ends of both studs

and not against the stud nuts.

8. Turn the tool nut with a wrench

until the tool places the studs under

tension, and, with a hammer, tap the

spindle near the stud to loosen them

in the spindle. Do not loosen the studs

in the spindle with tool pressure only.

9. Position a floor jack under the

lower control arm.

10.
Remove the ball joint stud nuts

and lower the lower arm enough to re-

move the spring and the spindle.
Installation

1.
Position the spindle to the lower

ball joint stud and install the attaching

nut. Torque the nut to specification.

Continue to tighten the nut until the

cotter pin hole is in line with the slots

in the nut. Then, install the cotter pin.

2.
Position the spring and raise the

lower arm and guide and upper ball

joint stud into the spindle hole and in-

stall the attaching nut. Torque the nut

to specification and install the cotter

pin as outlined in the preceeding step.

3.
Remove the floor jack from

under the lower arm.

4.
Attach the steering connecting

rod to the spindle and install the nut.

Torque the nut to specification. Con-

tinue to tighten the nut until the cotter

pin hole is in line with the slots in the

nut. Then, install the cotter pin.

5.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—Position the brake backing

plate to the spindle and install the at-

taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-

cification. Adjust the brakes as out-

lined in Part 2-2. Install the wheel,

tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-

just the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12).

6. If equipped with disc brak-

es—Install the splash shield on the

spindle and torque the attaching bolts

to specification (Part 3-13). Install theprocarmanuals.com

03-07-04
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-04

12.
Stop the engine, and check the

control valve and hose connections for

fluid leaks. Correct the cause of any

leaks.

13.
Check the fluid level, and refill

the reservoir if necessary.

14.
With the engine running check

the position of the steering wheel

when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position.Do not make

any adjustments until toe-in is

checked.

15.
Keep the engine running, and

check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer-

ing wheel position is not correct make

all necessary adjustments (Part 3-1) at

the spindle connecting rod sleeves.

16.
Check the effort to turn the

wheels in both directions. The effort

should be about equal in both direc-

tions.

POWER CYLINDER

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the two fluid lines

from the power cylinder and allow

them to drain into a container.
CENTER LINK

POWER CYLINDER

Tool- T64P-3590-F

G 1654-A

FIG. 5—Disconnecting Power

Cylinder Stud

2.
Remove the 'pal nut, attaching

nut, washer and the insulator from the

end of the power cylinder rod.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and cas-

tellated nut that secures the power

cylinder stud to the center link.

4.
Disconnect the power cylinder

stud from the center link as shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Remove the insulator sleeve and

washer from the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.
6. Inspect the tube fittings and the

seats in the power cylinder for nicks,

burrs or damage. Replace the seats in

the cylinder or the tubes as required.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the washer, sleeve and the

insulator on the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.

2.
Extend the rod as far as possible.

Insert the rod in the bracket on the

frame and compress the rod as neces-

sary to insert the stud in the -center

link. Secure the stud with a castellat-

ed, nut and a cotter pin.

3.
Secure the power cylinder rod

with an insulator, washer, nut and a

pal nut.

4.
Connect each of the two fluid

lines to its respective port in the cylin-

der.

5.
Fill the reservoir to the correct

level.

6. Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system. Stop

the engine.

7.
Check the fluid level and fill as

necessary. Install the dipstick and cap.

8. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

CONTROL VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Wipe all fluid and loose dirt

from the outside of the control valve.

2.
Remove the centering spring cap

from the valve housing (Fig. 6).

When holding the control valve for

disassembly, use a soft-jawed vise, and

clamp the valve only around the sleeve

flange to prevent damage to the hous-

ing, spool, or sleeve.

3.
Remove the nut from the end of

the valve spool bolt. Remove the

washers, spacer, centering spring,

adapter, and bushing from the bolt

and the valve housing.

4.
Remove the two bolts that hold

the valve housing and the sleeve to-

gether, and separate the housing from

the sleeve.

5.
Remove the plug from the valve

sleeve.

6. Push the valve spool out of the

centering spring end of the valve hous-

ing, and remove the seal from the

spool.

7.
Remove the spacer, bushing, and

seal from the sleeve end of the valve

housing.
8. Drive the stop pin out of the

travel regulator stop with a punch and

hammer (Fig. 7). Pull the head of the

valve spool bolt tightly against the

travel regulator stop before driving the

pin out of the stop.

9. Turn the travel regulator stop

counterclockwise in the valve sleeve to

remove the stop from the sleeve.

10.
Remove the valve spool bolt,

spacer, and rubber washer from the

travel regulator stop.

11.
Remove the rubber boot and

clamp from the valve sleeve.

12.
Slide the bumper, spring, and

ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve,

and remove the ball stud socket from

the sleeve.

13.
After removing the return port

hose seat, remove the return port re-

lief valve.

14.
After removing the spring plug

and O-ring, remove the reaction limit-

ing valve (Fig. 8).

Tube Seat Replacement

If a hose seat is worn or damaged it

should be replaced. It can be removed

with an Easy-Out tool, or by using a

bolt of appropriate size as a puller.
1.
Tap the existing hole in the hose

seat, using a starting tap of suitable

size.
Be sure to remove all metal chips

from the hose seat port after tapping.

2.
Place a nut and large flat washer

on a bolt of the same size as the

tapped hole. The washer must be large

enough to cover the hose seat port.

3.
Insert the bolt in the tapped

hole,
and using the nut as a puller, re-

move the hose seat.

4.
Place a new hose seat in the

port, and thread a bolt of suitable size

into the port. Tighten the bolt enough

to bottom the seat in the port.

ASSEMBLY

Before assembling the control valve,

coat all parts except the seals with

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Coat

the seals with lubricant COAZ-

19553-A.

1.
Install the reaction limiting

valve, the spring, and the plug.

2.
Install the return port relief valve

and the hose seat.

3.
Insert one of the ball stud seats

(flat end first) into the ball stud sock-

et, and insert the threaded end of the

ball stud into the socket.procarmanuals.com