steering wheel JEEP CJ 1953 Owner's Manual

o
STEERING SYSTEM
FIG.
0-3—FRONT
WHEEL
TOE-IN
1—
Toe-in
Angle

2—
Vertical
Line
In
the absence of a wheel aligning fixture, toe-in

may
be set by measuring
between
the front wheels
at the
edge
of the rim, at the flange or at the tire
tread
center. When making this adjustment the
wheels must be in a straight ahead position.
It
is highly important that toe-in be checked regu­

larly
and if found to be out of adjustment, correc­ tion should be made immediately.

The
correct toe-in of
these
models is found in the
specifications at the end of this section.
0-8. Toe-in Adjustment
The
toe-in may be adjusted with a line or straight

edge
as the vehicle tread is the same in front and
rear.
To set the adjustment both tie rods must be
adjusted
as outlined below:
Set the tie rod end of the steering bell-crank at
right
angles with the front axle. Place a straight

edge
or line against the left
rear
wheel and left front wheel to determine if the wheel is in a straight

ahead
position. If the front wheel tire
does
not touch the straight
edge
at both the front and
rear,

it
will
be necessary to adjust the left tie rod by loosening the clamps on each end and turning the
rod
until the tire touches the straight
edge.

Check
the right hand side in the same manner, ad­

justing
the tie rod if necessary, making sure that the bell-crank remains at right angles to the axle.

When
it is determined that the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, set the toe-in by short­
ening each tie rod approximately one-half
turn.

0-9.
Front
Wheel
Camber
The
purpose of camber Fig. 0-4, is to more nearly
place the weight of the vehicle over the tire con­ tact on the road to facilitate
ease
of steering.

The
result of excessive camber is irregular wear of
tires on outside shoulders and is usually caused by
bent axle parts.

The
result of negative or reverse camber, if ex­
cessive,
will
be
hard
steering and possibly a wan­

dering
condition.
Tires
will
also wear on inside shoulders. Negative camber is usually caused by
excessive wear or
looseness
of front wheel bearings, axle parts or the result of a sagging axle.

Unequal
camber may cause any or a combination
of the following conditions: unstable steering, wan- 11894-

FIG.
0-4—WHEEL CAMBER

1—Vertical
Line
2—Camber Angle
dering,
kick-back or road shock, shimmy or exces­
sive tire wear. The cause of unequal camber is usu­
ally
a bent steering knuckle or axle end.
Correct
wheel camber is set in the axle at the time
of manufacture and cannot be altered by any ad­
justment. It is important that the camber be the same on both front wheels. Heating of any of
these
parts
to facilitate straightening usually destroys
the heat treatment given them at the factory.
Cold
bending may cause a fracture of the steel and is also
unsafe. Replacement with new parts is recom­ mended rather than any straightening of damaged

parts.

O-10.
Axle
Caster Caster
angle is established in the axle design by
tilting the top of the kingpin toward the
rear
and
the
bottom
of the kingpin forward so that an

imaginary
line through the center of the kingpin
would strike the ground at a point ahead of the point of tire contact.
FIG.
0-5—AXLE
CASTER

1—
Vertical
Line

2—
Caster
Angle
316

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

o

STEERING
SYSTEM
10

FIG.
0-7—STEERING
CONNECTING
ROD
(DRAG
LINK)
10696

1—Cotter Pin

2>—Large
Plug

3—
Ball
Seat

4—
Ball
Seat Spring 5—
Spring
Plug
shaft,
tightness
of the steering gear in the frame,

tightness
of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steer­ ing tie rod
ball
joint ends. Adjust the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
to maximum safe
tightness

at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k.
Check
front axle caster.
This
should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be

indicated
causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct
caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.

I.
Check
the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,

m.
Check
wheel
toe-out
on turns.
This
gives
you

an
indication of the proper angularity of the steer­
ing knuckle arms and tells whether or not they have been bent and require replacing. These may be checked by comparing them with new parts. If

an
arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n.
Check
wheel camber.
This
should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,

o.
Check
the king pin inclination. See Specifica­ tions.

p.
Check
the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an accident.

0-14.
STEERING
LINKAGE
SERVICE
The
steering linkage must maintain constant toe-
in
and
good
steering control under all driving
conditions.
This
requires
ball
joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated
for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in
the linkage, the joints must be replaced. When­
ever
ball
joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset. Because
some
members of the steering system may
have
become
bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting
Rod
(Drag
Link)

The
steering connecting rod is of the
ball
and socket
type. All
ball
seat springs and adjusting plugs are 6—
-Dust
Cover

7—
Dust
Shield
8—
Small
Adjusting Plug
9—
Lubrication
Fitting
10—Connecting Rod

identical,
the only difference
between
front and
rear
end being the relative location of the springs.

The
correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod
is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled
between
the
rod
and
ball
seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring
and spacer are
between
the
ball
seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the left.

When
removing springs and
seats
for any reason,
make
sure they are reassembled as shown in the

illustration
because this method of assembly re­
lieves road shock from the steering gear in both di­
rections. To adjust the
ball
joint, screw in the plug

firmly
against the
ball,
approximately 20 ft. lb. [2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin inserted through
holes
in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust the
ball
joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the end plug firmly against the
ball,
then back off one

full
turn
and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through
holes
in the tube and the slot in the ad­

justing
plug.

The
above adjustments
will
give
the proper spring
tension and avoid any
tightness
when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right
turn.
The
ball
joints must be tight enough to prevent end

play
and yet
loose
enough to allow free movement.
0-16. Tie Rod
The
tie rods are of three piece construction con­sisting of the rod and two
ball
and socket end as­ semblies.
Ball
and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,

around
each end of the rod. Right and left hand threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.

'Jeep'
Universal models are equipped with a

divided
tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member.
With
this type con­

struction
the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted in­
dependently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".

When
wear takes place in the tie rod end
ball
and socket, it
will
be necessary to replace the
ball
and socket assembly and also the rubber seal. 318

STEERING
SYSTEM

FIG.
0-9—STEERING

BELLCRANK
ASSEMBLY

1— 5s'-18
Stollock
Lockout

2—
Plain
Washer

3— 7 us"-20
x
2 l2' Bolt

4—
71«
*-20
Stollock
Locknut
5—
Beilcrank
Support

6—
Special
Ground
Washer
7— Seal
8—
Bearing
9— Beilcrank
10— Beilcrank
Shaft

11—
Seals

12—
Bearings

13— } s *
b.
Torque the
Vfc"
[11,113
mm.] diameter elamp
bolt to
50-70
lb-ft. [6,9 a 9,7 kg-m.].

c.
Assemble the tie rod to the beilcrank lever,
making
sure to tighten the nut to the proper
torque value of 38 to 45 lb-ft. [5,2 a 6,2 kg-m.].

d.
Connect the drag
link
to the beilcrank arm,

adjust
the
ball
joint by screwing in the plug firmly against the
ball,
approximately 20 lb-ft. [2,8 kg-m.], then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin.

0-19.
Beilcrank
Support
Bracket
Rivet
Replacement

The
procedure for replacing a rivet with a bolt
is as follows:

a.
Drill
a [4,76 mm.] pilot
hole
up through
the front rivet.

b.
Enlarge
the [4,76 mm.]
hole
with a %"
[8,73 mm.]
drill.

c.
Chisel
off the
bottom
rivet head and drive the

remainder
of the rivet upward and out, using
a
punch and hammer.

d.
Install
a %" [9,53 mm.] bolt and lock nut,
torque to
30-45
lb-ft. [4,1 a 6,2 kg-m] and stake
the nut.

e.
Clamp
a metal plate to the frame to protect
the radiator, then
drill
and remove the remaining two rivets, install bolts, lock nuts and torque as
specified.

O-20.
STEERING
COLUMN
AND
WHEEL SERVICE

Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles use a
one-piece
steer­
ing
shaft that is integral with the steering gear
assembly, as shown in Fig. 0-2. Alignment in­
structions in paragraph 0-4 apply.

0-21.
Steering
Wheel Removal •
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Carefully
pry the rubber horn cap from the housing slot.
b.
Remove steering shaft nut.

c.
Remove steering wheel and spring.

0-22.
STEERING GEAR SERVICE

Note:
The steering gear can be adjusted when the
gear is mounted in the vehicle by first disconnecting
the drag
link
from the steering arm. Refer to Par.
Q-5.
0-23.
Removal
of
Steering Gear
•
F4-Engine.

a.
Remove the directional signal unit from the steering column.

b.
Remove the steering column bracket attached
at the instrument panel.

c.
Remove upper section of the floor pan.

d.
Disconnect shift rods from the shift levers at
lower end of the steering column if applicable.

e.
Disconnect the horn wire at lower end of steer­
ing
gear assembly.

f.
Remove steering gear arm from the steering gear assembly.

g.
Remove
bolts
attaching the steering gear hous­
ing
to the frame.

h.
Remove the steering gear assembly by bringing

it
up through the floor pan opening.

•
V6 Engine.

a.
Remove oil pan
skid
plate.

b.
Remove
left
exhaust pipe.

c.
Disconnect connecting rod (drag
link)
from
steering gear arm.

d.
Disconnect steering gear assembly from frame.

e.
Remove steering wheel from steering column.
f. Disconnect accelerator linkage.
g.
Remove upper floor pan assembly.
h.
Disconnect directional signal switch.
i.
Jack-up
vehicle, and remove steering gear and
320

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O
column assembly down through the floor pan open­
ing and out from under vehicle.
0-24.
Disassembly
of
Steering
Gear
Refer
to Fig. 0-2.

When
the steering gear arm is installed on early
production vehicles, the line across the face of the

arm
and the end of the shaft should be in align­ ment. On later production vehicles, blind splines
on the lever shaft and in the steering gear arm en­

sure
correct positioning of the arm.

a.
Remove the steering gear arm with a puller
C-3646.

Caution:
Do not use a hammer or
wedge
to re­
move
the steering arm from the shaft and lever.

This
can cause damage to the shaft assembly.

b.
Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting

screw
two turns.

c.
Remove the side cover screws and washers. Re­
move
the side cover and gasket.

d.
Remove lever shaft.

e.
Remove upper cover plate screws. Remove cam,
wheel tube, and bearing assembly from the housing.
f.
Clean
all parts with suitable cleaning solvent and wipe dry.

g.
After dismantling as outlined above is com­
pleted, inspect cam
grooves
for wear, chipping and
scoring,
also the
ball
races on the cam ends and the
separate
ball
cups. Existence of any of
these
condi­ tions indicates the necessity for parts replacement.

h.
Inspect the tapered stud mounted on the lever
shaft for flat
spots
and chipping. In the case of
either, replacement is usually advisable. Inspect the
lever shaft for wear and
test
the fit of the shaft in
the bushings.

i.
Inspect condition of the oil seal at outer end of
lever shaft and the bearing at top end of steering
column.

0-25.
Reassembly
of
Steering
Gear
e Refer to Fig. 0-2.
Reassemble all parts to wheel tube in reverse order
of dismantling. Assemble cam, wheel tube and
bearing
assembly in housing, seating the lower

bearing
ball
cup in the housing.
Note:
New plastic retainer type cam bearings are
now available for the Ross steering gears. The new
bearings replace, and are interchangeable with,
the lock ring type cam bearings on gears equipped

with
early type cams.
With
adjusting shims in place, assemble upper
cover and adjust the cam bearings.
Assemble lever shaft in housing and with gasket
in
place assemble the side cover and set adjusting

screw
for a minimum backlash of the studs in the
cam
groove, with the steering gear at the center
point of travel.
When
assembling upper bearing spring and spring
seat in jacket tube make sure that the spring seat
is positioned correctly. It must be installed with
the lengthwise flange down against the bearing and
not up inside of spring coil.

0-26.
Installation
of
Steering
Gear

a.
After the gear has been properly adjusted, as
outlined in Par. 0-5, install steering gear assembly
in
chassis in the reverse order in which it was re­
moved.

b.
After installing the assembly in the vehicle,

jack
up front of vehicle and place the front wheels
in
the straight ahead position.

c.
Temporarily install the steering wheel to locate
the mid-position of the steering gear. To locate the mid-position,
turn
the steering wheel as far to the

right
as possible and then
turn
in the
opposite
di­

rection
as far as possible, noting the total number
of turns.
Turn
the wheel back just ^ of the total movement to place the gear in mid-position.

d.
With
the steering gear in mid-position and the
wheels in the straight ahead position install steer­ ing gear arm on lever shaft with the
ball
end down.

When
installed the line across the face of the arm

and
end of shaft should be in alignment.

0-27.
Steering
Wheel
Installation
•
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Install
steering wheel and spring on shaft.

Align
scribe marks on shaft and hub of wheel.
b.
Install
steering shaft nut and torque 20 to 25
lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

c.
Install
horn cap. Test horn.
321

o

STEERING
SYSTEM 0-28.
SBKF1CE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS PROBABLE REMEDY
Hard Steering
Lack
of Lubrication Lubricate all Connections
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn.
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Joints
Tight. Adjust
Cross
Shaft Improperly Adjusted Adjust Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn...................
Replace

Steering
Loose
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Sockets
Worn
Replace

Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn.
Replace
Steering
Gear
Improperly Adjusted.
......
Adjust
Road Shook; Steering Connecting Rod too Tight;
Axle
Spring
Clip
Loose; Wheel Bearings Loose;
Poor
Shock Absorber

Control,

Turning Radius
Short One
Side
Center
Bolt
in Spring
Sheered
Off,
Axle
Shifted, Steering Arm Bent, Steering Arm not Properly Located

on
Steering
Gear.

0-29.
STEERING
SPECIFICATIONS
F4
ENGINE
V6
ENGINE

STEERING
GEAR:
Make.
Ross
Ross

Type
Cam
and Lever

Cam
and Lever

Ratio..
17.9 to 1
19 to 1
Bearings:
Ball

Cam-Upper
Ball Ball

Cam-Lower
Ball Ball

Lever
Shaft Bushing
Bushing
Steering Column-Upper
Ball
Ball

Lever
Shaft:
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

Clearance
to Bushing
.0005"
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.j
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

End
Play .000'
.000"

Lash
at Cam (Straight Ahead) Slight Drag
Slight Drag
Wheel Diameter.
17M*
(438 mm.]
17M*
[438 mm.]
Wheel
Turns.
2.58
2.58

STEERING
GEOMETRY:
King
Pin Inclination
m°
I
72

Toe-In.
W to W U,2 a 2,3 mm.] W to W [1,2 a 2,3 mm.]

Camber
1°
30'

1°
30'

Caster
3°
3°

Turning
Angle:
27K°

DJ,
CJ Models

27K° 273^°

Turning
Radius with 27^° Angle: 17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-3B,
CJ-5, CJ-5A.
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
Outside Wheel Angle with Inside Wheel at 20°:
20° 20°
322

p
BRAKES

13264

FIG- P-2—DOUBLE
SAFETY BRAKE
MASTER
CYLINDER
With
the Double-Safety brake system type master

cylinder,
failure
in one part of the brake system

does
not result in
failure
of the entire hydraulic
brake system. Failure in the
front
brake system
will

leave the rear brake system
still
operative or
failure
in
the rear system
will
leave the
front
brake system

operative.

A
double hydraulic
cylinder
with
two outlets, two
residual
check valves, two
fluid
reservoirs, and

two
hydraulic pistons (a
primary
and secondary)
are operated in tandem by a single hydraulic push
rod.
The
primary
outlet is connected to the
front

brakes
with
the secondary outlet connected to the rear brakes.

With
the master
cylinder
fluid
reservoirs
filled
and the
front
and rear brake system
bled,
there is a
solid
column
of
fluid
on the
forward
side of both the

primary
and the secondary pistons.

Upon
application
of the brakes, through movement

of
the brake pedal,
fluid
is displaced by the pistons

into
the wheel cylinders to activate both
front
and
rear brakes.
Upon
release
of the brakes,
fluid
re­
turns
from
the rear wheel cylinders through the secondary residual check valve to the secondary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.
Fluid
also
returns
from
the
front
wheel cylinders through the

primary
residual check valve to the
primary

portion
of the master
cylinder
bore.

P-3.
Parking
Brakes
— DJ-5, DJ-6

a.
The parking brake is operated by a T-handle

lever
mounted to the
left
of the steering
column
and
suspended
from
the instrument panel. When
the brake lever is
pulled
outward, tension is exerted
on
the parking brake cable leading to the brake.
The
amount of brake
grip
depends
on the number

of
notches the lever is
pulled
out. To set the park­
ing
brake,
pull
out on the parking brake
control
T-handle.
To
release
the brake,
turn
the handle

slightly
and push it
forward.

0

FIG.
P-3—PARKING
BRAKE LINKAGE
—
DJ-5,
DJ-6
1—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Front)
7—Retracting
Spring
Link
13—Brake
Lever
Bracket

2—
Clip
8—Nut
14—Clevis
Pin

3—
Grommet
9—Nut
15—Cotter
Pin
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle
Assembly
10—Equalizer
16—Clevis
Pin

5—
Cable
and
Conduit
(Rear)
11—Adjusting
Rod
17—Cotter
Pin
6—
Retracting
Spring
12—Hand
Brake
Lever
324

Q

WHEELS
FIG.
Q-2—FRONT
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
2-WHEEL-DRIVE

1—
Steering
Knuckle

2—
Brake

3— Hub
Grease
Seal
4—
Inner
Bearing
Cone

5—
Inner
Bearing
Cup
6—
Hub
and
Drum

7—
Outer
Bearing
Cup
8—
Outer
Bearing
Cone
9—
Tongued
Washer

10— Nut
11—
Cotter
Pin

12—
Grease
Cap

13— Nut
14—
Lockwasher
15—
Bolt
j
10703
is ir 10730
FIG.
Q-3—REAR
WHEEL
ATTACHING PARTS —
4-WHEEL-DRIVE
TAPERED
AXLE

1—
Oil
Seal

2—
Cone
and
Rollers

3— Cup
4—
Shims
5—
Bearing
Retainer
6—
Brake
Backing
Plate
7—
Gasket

8—
Grease
Retainer

9—
Grease
Protector

10—Bolt
11— Hub
and
Drum

12—
Shaft
Key

13—
Washer

14—
Nut
15—
Cotter
Pin
Ifi—Hub
Cap

17—Nut

18—
Ixick
Washer

19—Bolt

FIG.
Q-4—REAR
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
2-WHEEL-
DRIVE-TAPERED
AXLE

1—
Oil
Seal

2—
Bearing
Cone

3—
Bearing
Cup
4—
Shim
Set
5—
Retainer
and
Seal

6—
Brake
7—
Nut

8—
Hub
and
Drum

9—
Axle
Shaft Key

10—
Washer

11— Nut
12—
Cotter
Pin
13—
Lockwasher

14—
Bolt

recommended with the exception that
rear
wheels

on vehicles having
Trac-Lok
or
Powr-Lok
axles
should always be removed for balancing.

Q-3. WHEEL
BEARING
SERVICE

Adjustment
of the wheel bearings is
critical
be­ cause it establishes the running clearance of the wheel bearings. Wheel bearing adjustment that is
too
tight
preloads the bearings and causes them
to run hot. Loose wheel bearings permit the drum hub to shift its position on the bearings as thrust loads
vary
with acceleration,
braking,
and cornering.

Loose
bearings also cause
erratic
braking.
To check
the wheel bearings for adjustment, brakes must
be free and in fully released position. 336

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
Q-5—REAR
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
FLANGED
AXLE

1—
Brake
Backing Plate

2—
Retainer
Ring

3—
Unit-Bearing

4—
Oil
Seal
5—
Retainer
Plate 6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Cup
Plug
8—
Flanged
Axle Shaft
14284

Q-4. Checking
Front
Wheel Bearings

Raise
the front end of the vehicle with a
jack

so that the tires clear the floor.

Grip
the tire and
test
sidewise shake of the wheel.

If
bearings are correctly adjusted, shake of the
wheel
will
be just perceptible and wheel
will
turn

freely with no drag.

If
bearing adjustment is too tight, the rollers may

break
or
become
overheated. Loose bearings may cause
excessive
wear and noise.

If
this
test
indicates bearing adjustment is neces­

sary,
follow
the procedure given in Par. Q-5. Loose
bearings
will
cause sidewise shake that is evident

around
the entire circumference of the wheel. A shake that is evident only when gripping the
wheels
in
a plane parallel to the ground, but not evident

around
the entire circumference, probably indicates
looseness
in the steering linkage.

Q-5.
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
With
the vehicle on the
jack,
the following proce­

dure
should be followed to adjust the front wheel
bearings on four wheel-drive vehicles.
a. Remove the hub cap, snap
ring,
capscrews, and
washers that attach the driving
flange
to the hub.

b.
Using the
Front
Axle Shaft Drive Flange Puller

W-163,
pull
the driving flange.
c. Bend the lip of the nut lock washer so that the

locknut
and lock washer may be removed.

d.
Rotate the wheel and tighten the adjustment nut until the wheel binds.

Note:
Front
tire and wheel must be rotated by

hand
as the adjusting nut is
tightened
to ensure positive seating of the bearing.

Then
back off the adjusting nut about one-sixth
turn
making sure that wheel rotates freely without
sidewise shake.
e. Replace the lock washers and locknut. Bend
over the lock washer lip.
f.
Check
the adjustment (Par. Q-4). Reassemble the driving
flange
and hub cap. Make certain the
gasket is properly installed
between
the hub and
the flange.

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6

On
two-wheel drive vehicles, remove the hub cap
and
the wheel retaining nut cotter pin. Rotate the
wheel and tighten the wheel retaining nut until the wheel binds.
Then
back off nut about one-sixth
turn
or more if necessary making sure wheel ro­

tates
freely without sidewise shake. Replace the cotter pin and hub cap.

Q-6.
Rear
Wheel Bearing Adjustment —

Flanged
Axle Shaft

Vehicles
equipped with the
flange
type
rear
axle
shaft require no wheel bearing adjustment. The flanged axle shaft is equipped with a single row,

pre-adjusted,
tapered roller unit-bearing capable of
accepting thrust in either direction. The unit-

bearing
adjustment is built in at the factory mak­
ing shimming or bearing adjustment unnecessary.

Refer
to Fig. Q-6.

Q-7.
Checking
Rear
Wheel Bearings —
Tapered
Axle

Raise
wheel on which adjustment is to be made
by placing a
jack
under the axle housing.
With
hands,
test
sidewise shake and in and out play
of the wheel. If bearings are correctly adjusted,
shake of wheel
will
be just perceptible and the 337

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

U
DESCRIPTION
—
Continued

AXLES

W-99* Gauge — Pinion & Ring
Gear
Setting
W-104-B* Puller — Tapered Roller Bearing Removing
W-126* Driver — Pinion Bearing Cup
W-128* Installer — Differential Inner Oil Seal W-129 Spreader — Differential
Carrier
Housing
W-138* Driver & Adapter —
King
Pin Bearing
W-144* Wrench — Wheel Bearing Adjusting Nut W-147* Driver — Pinion Oil Seal W-163* Puller
—-
Axle Shaft Drive Flange
W-186* Driver — Axle Shaft Oil Seal
W-188* Driver — Differential Case Bearing W-251* Puller — Pinion Oil Seal
W-262*
Sleeve
— Pinion Bearing Installing

W-263
Semi-Floating
Rear
Axle Shaft Oil Seal W-264* Driver — Pinion Outer Bearing Cup
W-297* Torque Wrench — Pinion Bearing Adjusting W-343* Remover
85
Installer —
Rear
Axle Bearing (Flanged Axle)
W-344* Installer — Pinion Inner Bearing Cups

C-319-A
Puller —
Rear
Wheel Hub (Tapered Axle Shaft)
C-690 Checking Scale —
King
Pin Bearing Preload DD-914-P Press — Tapered Roller Bearing Removing
DD-914-9 Reducer Ring — Differential & Pinion Bearings (Use with DD-914-P)

C-3
716 Driver — Differential
Carrier
Bearing C-4142
Gear
Rotating Tool —
Trac-Lok
Differential
**Jeep*
exclusive
tool

Steering
Group

C-3646 Puller, Steering Shaft Arm

Brake
Group

W-172 Puller, Parking Brake Drum
U-12.
STflNDfiRD
AND
RECOMMENDED
TOOLS

Tool
Description
ENGINE

W-292
Tester — Cooling
System
Thermostat
C-119 Indicator — Cylinder Bore C-385 Compressor — Piston Ring
C-647 Fixture — Spring Testing
C-823
Hone
— Cylinder Bore Refinishing
C-3012 Reamer — Cylinder Ridge
C-3250 Pliers — Radiator fis Heater
Hose
Wire Clamp
C-3411
Gauge — Pressure & Vacuum
C-3422-A Compressor — E-type Valve Spring
C-3501
Hone
— Cylinder
Deglazing
C-3514
Flusher — Cooling
System

C-3886 Fixture — Carburetor Holding C-3896-A Tachometer — Portable
C-3943 Gauge — Compression Checking
C-3952 Torque Wrench, 150
lb-ft.
Swivel Head C-3953 Stand, Engine Repair
C-3959 Light — Ignition Timing
C-4065 Wrench — Oil Filter Removing
C-4080 Tester — Cooling
System
fig
Pressure Cap

ELECTRICAL

40B Hydrometer — Battery Service
W-291 Tester — Instrument
C-3674
Aimers —
Headlight
(Pair)
C-3829 Tester —
Diode
Polarity
C-3888 Tester — Volt-Ampere C-3950 Tester — 12V 60 Amp. Carbon Pile Resistor 361