PONTIAC FIERO 1988 Service Repair Manual

REPAIR PROCEDURES
ALIGN TOOL WITH EDGE OF CLIP
Step Five: Solder
Apply 60140 rosin core solder to
t,he opening
in the back of the clip (see Figure
10). Follow
the manufacturer's instructions for the solder
equipment you are using.
Step Six: Tape the Splice
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape
should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough
tape to duplicate the thickness of the insula-
tion on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape.
Flagged tape may not provide enough insula-
tion, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
ot,her wires in the harness (see Figure 11).
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or
other harness covering, tape the wire again.
Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of
tape (see Figure 12).
Figure 9 - Completing The Grirnp
SPLICING ALUMINUM WIRE
General Motors cars have a front body wir-
ing harness made of 2.0 metric and 1.0 metric
(14 and 16 gauge) insulated solid cable alumi-
num wires. These wires are enclosed in a brown
solid plastic conduit from behind the instru-
ment panel to the rear of the car..
A special repair kit (1684873-GR.2.530-KIT-
ALUM-WIRE
TERMINAL REPAIR) is
available to help make repairs on aluminum
wires. This kit contains materials and instruc-
tions that can be used either to splice wire or
crimp on new terminals. The kit includes the
following parts:
Figure 10 - Applying The Solder
GOOD (ROLLED)
BAD (FLAGGED)
Figure
11 - Proper First Taping

REPAIR PROCEDURES
TAPE AGAIN IF NEEDED
Figure
12 - Proper Second Taping
-Small cylindrical metal splice clips.
-A plastic tube of petroleum jelly.
-Ten 2.0 metric
(14 gauge) DK GRN leads:
lv50mm (6 "1 long with terminals.
-Ten 1.0 metric
( 16 gauge) BRN leads: 150
mm
(6") long with terminals.
Use of the special materials in this kit will
help prevent galvanic corrosion. Galvanic
ror-
rosion causes increased resistance between the
terminal and wire. or the splice clip and wire. or
both. Increased resistance would affect the
operation of the electrical components in the
repaired circuit.
Step One: Open the Harness
Because the harness has a solid plastic con-
duit. simply cut the conduit open with
diagonal cutters and pull out the desired wire.
Be careful not to damage any of the wires when
cutting open the conduit.
Step Two: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the har-
ness as possible. You may need the extra
length of wire later if you decide to cut more
wire off to change the location of a splice. You
ma?. have to adjust splice locations to make
certain that each splice is at least 40mm
(1 112")
away from the other splices. harness branches.
or connectors.
Step Three: Strip the Insulation
When replacing a wire or lead. use a wire of
the same size as the original wire, or larger.
Look up the metric wire size on the schematic
and select the proper-sized leads from the spe-
cial repair kit. Remember that the wires in this
harness can only be one of two sizes-2.0 metric
or 1.0 metric
(14 or 16 gauge).
Use wire strippers of the proper gauge to
strip approximately 6mm (114
") of insulation
from each wire end.
When stripping the outer jacket from the
aluminum wire core. be careful not to nick or
damage the core.
A damaged core will weaken
the assembly at this point.
Step Four: Coating the SpliceITerminal
To prevent corrosion, apply a generous coat-
ing of petroleum jelly to the splice area.
If you
are replacing a lead, also thoroughly coat the
terminal crimp area and aluminum core with
petroleum jelly. Both areas are shown in Fig-
ure
13 and identified with the letter "A."
Step Five: Crimp the Wires
-Select the proper-sized splice clip (follow
the instructions included in the special
repair kit).
-Place one wire end in each end of the
splice clip.
-Crimp the clip firmly to the wire using
10" slip joint pliers. Do NOT solder the
splice (see Figure 14).
-Repeat this procedure for the second wire
or lead in the splice clip.
Figure 13 - Where To Apply Petroleum Jelly

REPAIR PROCEDURES
Step Six: Tape Splicellnsert Terminal
Tape over both the splice clip and the
petroleun~ jelly to seal out moisture and insu-
late the splice (see Figure
15). If you have
replaced a lead. do not tape over the terminal
crimp area but insert the lead into the connec-
tor body.
SPLICING TWISTED1
SHIELDED CABLE
ltyistedshielded cable is sometimes used to
protect wiring from electrical noise (stray sig-
nals). For example, two-conductor cable of this
construction is used between the
ECM and the
distributor. See Figure
16 for a breakdown of
twistedshielded cable construction.
Step One: Remove Outer Jacket
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. He
careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or
the mylar tape.
Step Two: Unwrap the Tape
Unwrap the aluminumlmylar tape, but do
not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap
the twisted conductors after the splices have
been made.
Step Three: Prepare the Splice
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the
splice by following the splicing instructions
for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to
stagger splices to avoid shorts (see Figure
17).
Figure 14 - Crimping The First Half Of The Splice
Clip (Aluminum Wire)
Figure
15 - The Tape Covers The Splice Clip And
The Petroleum Jelly To Seal And
Insulate
Step Four: Re-Assemble the Cable
After you have spliced and taped each wire,
rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be
careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the
tape.
Next, splice the drain wire following the
splicing instructions for copper wire. Then,
wrap the drain wire around the conductors and
mylar tape
(see Figure 18).
Step Five: Tape the Cable
Tape over the entire cable using a winding
motion (see Figure
19). This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make
the repair.
DRAIN WIRE
(UNINSU LATED)
MYLAR TAPE TVVlSTED
CONDUCTORS
Figure
16 - TwistedIShielded Cable

REPAIR PROCEDURES
Figure 18 - The ReAssernbled Gable
Figure
19 - Proper Taping
REPAIRING CONNECTORS
(Except
mather Pack@ and Metri-
Pack Series 150 Pull-to-Seat Type)
The following general repair procedures can
be used for Nigh Density, Printed Circuit and
Bulkhead connectors. Prior to starting any
repairs, separate connector halves and remove
any terminal covers or retainers.
Instruction in the disassembly, repair, and
assembly of connectors follows. Consult the
figures for details on each specific type of con-
nector. The instruction is divided into steps.
Only perform those steps necessary to make
the repair.
Step One: Remove the Lead
Depress the terminal locking tang using the
proper size pick.
CAUTION: Do not place fingers or other
parts of the body next to or around the
back of the connector. If too much force is
used, the pick and terminal both could be
pushed out the back of the connector and
cause injury.
-Place the pick between the locking
tang of the terminal and the plastic
of the connector body.
-Ease the lead back enough to
release the locking tang.
-Pull the pick out.
-Gently pull the lead out of the back
of the connector body. Step
Two: Re-Form the Locking Tang
If the lead and terminal are in good condi-
tion, reform the locking tang:
-Hold the lead firmly to prevent the splice
between the terminal and the wire from
flexing.
-Use the pick to bend the locking tang
back into its original shape. Also check to
see that the remainder of the terminal is
still in its original shape.
Step Three: Make the Repair
When you make a repair, use the correct
types of terminals and wires.
-Attach a new wire or a new terminal
using the procedures in Splicing Copper
Wire or Splicing Aluminum Wire.
Step Four: Insert the Lead
Before inserting the lead, make certain that
the terminal is correctly shaped. Be
careful to
insert terminals in their proper locations.
-Gently insert the lead from the back.
The terminal should stop or
"catch" about
halfway through the connector body.
Note: With bulkhead connectors. in many
cavities it is possible for the terminal to be
inserted in two ways. Be sure it is inserted in
the same direction as it was removed. or to
mate correctly with the facing terminal.

REPAIR PROCEDURES Ig
-Push back and forth gently on the lead to
be sure the terminal is held in place in
both directions. If the terminal easily
pushes or pulls out, review Step Two;
"Re-Form the
Locking Tang."
Before mating the connector halves replace
any terminal covers or retainers that were
removed. and apply grease to prevent corro-
sion. NARROW PICK
LOCKING TANG
Figure
20 - High Density Connectors

REPAIR PROCEDURES
WlST WIDE PICK TO RE-FORM TANG
PUSH IN AND DOWN ON TERMINAL NOTCH
RE-FORMING THE LOCKING TANG (MALE TERMINAL)
Figure
21 - Bulkhead Type Connectors

REPAIR PROCEDURES 1:
RELEASE PARTS OF CONNECTOR
FIRST
IF NEEDED
REMOVING TERMINAL RETAINERS (MALE TERMINALS)
RE-FORMING THE LOCKING TANG (MALE TERMINAL)
REMOVING TERMINAL RETAINERS (FEMALE TERMINALS)
I RE-FORMING THE LOCKING TANG (FEMALE TERMINAL)
Figure
22 - Metri-pack Type Connectors - Push-To-Seat Type

REPAIR PROCEDURES
PUSH NARROW
PICK BETVVEEN
TERMINAL AND
CONNECTOR BODY
RE-FORM LOCKING TANG
RE-FORMING THE LOCKING TANG
REPAIRING WEATHER PACK@
(Environmental) CONNECTORS
Weather Pack@ or weatherproof connectors
provide environmental protection on certain
electrical circuits. This protection consists of a
moisture-proof rubber flexible seal between the
two connector halves and rubber cable seals
attached to each terminal. The terminals and
the cable
seals are secured by a hinged secon-
dary lock on small Weather Pack@ connectors
and by plastic terminal retainers on large
Weather Pack@ connectors.
If a Weather PackB connector requires
repair, do not replace the Weather Pack@ parts
with other types of connectors and temrinals.
Also, do not omit either the large seal or the
cable seals when making a repair.
Instruction in the disassemly, repair, and
assembly of both small and large Weather
PackR connectors follows. The instruction is
divided into steps. Only perform those steps
necessary to make the repair.
Step One: Separate the Connector Halves
To separate a large connector, unscrew the
bolt in the center of the connector body. Then
pull the two halves apart. To separate a small
connector, simply pull up on the primary lock
and simultaneously pull the two halves apart.
Figure 23 - Printed Circuit Type Connectass

REPAIR PROCEDURES I:
Step Two: Remove the Terminal Retainer(s)
(Large Connectors)/Open the Secondary
Locks (Small Connectors)
To remove a terminal retainer, press a wide
pick at a
45 " angle against the locking nib (see
Figure
24). Push the nib up as far as possible.
Then, pull the retainer out.
To open the secondary locks on
small con-
nectors. flip down the
lock hinges as shown in
Figure
25.
Step Three: Remove the Lead
Depress the terminal locking tangs using a
Weather Pack"
pick(J28742-A or the equiv-
alent):
-Push the hollow cylinder of the pick into
the terminal cavity from the front until it
stops (see Figures 26 and
27).The pick
should surround the terminal (see Figure
28 for drawings of locking tangs).
(NOTE: THERE ARE TVVO RETAINERS) I
-Pull the pick out.
-Gently pull the lead out of the back of the Figure 24 - Releasing the Terminal Retainers (Large Connectors)
connector body.
Note that the male connector body half con-
tains female terminals and the female half
houses
male terminals.
SECONDARY LOCKS CLOSED SECONDARY
LOCKS OPEN
Figure
25 - Opening the Secondary Locks (Small connectors)

REPAIR PROCEDURES
Step Four: Re-Form the Locking Tang
If the lead and terminal are in good condi-
tion, re-form the locking tang.
-Hold the lead firmly to prevent
the splice
between the terminal and the wire from
flexing.
-Use the pick (528742-A or the equivalent)
to bend the locking tang back into its
original shape (see Figure 28). Also,
check to see that the remainder of the ter-
minal is still in its original shape. (See
Step Six for instruction in inserting the
lead.)
Step Five: Make the Repair
When you make a repair, use the correct
types of terminals, wires, and seals.
To add a new lead, cut the wire and crimp and
solder on the Weather
PackB lead assembly
(see Figure 29) using rosin core solder. (Follow
the instructions for splicing wire outlined ear-
lier in this section for a review of splicing pro-
cedures.)
If Weather PackE lead assemblies are not
available, splice a new terminal and cable seal
onto the existing wire.
-Cut the wire immediately behind the
cable seal.
-Slip the new cable seal onto the wire and
push it back out of the way.
-Strip 5.0mm (3116") of insulation from
the wire.
WEATHER PACK8 PICK
Figure 27 - Releasing The Terminal Locking Figure 28 - Re-Forming The Locking Tang
Tangs (Small Connectors)